Toward the end of November, though some of the sound ones are yet more mellow and perhaps more edible, they have generally, like the leaves, lost their beauty, and are beginning to freeze.  It is finger-cold, and prudent farmers get in their barrelled apples, and bring you the apples and cider which they have engaged; for it is time to put them into the cellar.  Perhaps a few on the ground show their red cheeks above the early snow, and occasionally some even preserve their color and soundness under the snow throughout the winter.  But generally at the beginning of the winter they freeze hard, and soon, though undecayed, acquire the color of a baked apple.

Before the end of December, generally, they experience their first thawing.  Those which a month ago were sour, crabbed, and quite unpalatable to the civilized taste, such at least as were frozen while sound, let a warmer sun come to thaw them, for they are extremely sensitive to its rays, are found to be filled with a rich, sweet cider, better than any bottled cider that I know of, and with which I am better acquainted than with wine.  All apples are good in this state, and your jaws are the cider-press.  Others, which have more substance, are a sweet and luscious food, ­in my opinion of more worth than the pine-apples which are imported from the West Indies.  Those which lately even I tasted only to repent of it, ­for I am semi-civilized, ­which the farmer willingly left on the tree, I am now glad to find have the property of hanging on like the leaves of the young oaks.  It is a way to keep cider sweet without boiling.  Let the frost come to freeze them first, solid as stones, and then the rain or a warm winter day to thaw them, and they will seem to have borrowed a flavor from heaven through the medium of the air in which they hang.  Or perchance you find, when you get home, that those which rattled in your pocket have thawed, and the ice is turned to cider.  But after the third or fourth freezing and thawing they will not be found so good.

What are the imported half-ripe fruits of the torrid South to this fruit matured by the cold of the frigid North?  These are those crabbed apples with which I cheated my companion, and kept a smooth face that I might tempt him to eat.  Now we both greedily fill our pockets with them, ­bending to drink the cup and save our lappets from the overflowing juice, ­and grow more social with their wine.  Was there one that hung so high and sheltered by the tangled branches that our sticks could not dislodge it?

It is a fruit never carried to market, that I am aware of, ­quite distinct from the apple of the markets, as from dried apple and cider, ­and it is not every winter that produces it in perfection.

“Hear this, ye old men, and give ear, all ye in-habitants of the land!  Hath this been in your days, or even in the days of your fathers?...

“That which the palmer-worm hath left hath the locust eaten; and that which the locust hath left hath the canker-worm eaten; and that which the canker-worm hath left hath the caterpillar eaten.

“Awake, ye drunkards, and weep! and howl, all ye drinkers of wine, because of the new wine! for it is cut off from your mouth.

“For a nation is come up upon my land, strong, and without number, whose teeth are the teeth of a lion, and he hath the cheek-teeth of a great lion.

“He hath laid my vine waste, and barked my fig-tree; he hath made it clean bare, and cast it away; the branches thereof are made white....

“Be ye ashamed, O ye husbandmen! howl, O ye vine-dressers!...

“The vine is dried up‚ and the fig-tree languisheth; the pomegranate-tree‚ the palm tree also‚ and the apple-tree‚ even all the trees of the field‚ are withered:  because joy is withered away from the sons of men."