There are certain places whose happy
fortune seems to be that they are always specially
loved and specially sought by the children of men.
From that memorable date in 1630 when a little group
of the Plymouth colonists asked permission to locate
across the bay at “Duxberie” until now,
when the summer colony alone has far surpassed that
of the original settlers, this section of the coast with
its lovely six-mile beach, its high bluffs, and its
pleasant hills and pasture lands, upon which are found
quite a southern flora, unique in this northern latitude has
been thoroughly frequented and enjoyed.
There is no more graphic index to
the caliber of a people than the houses which they
build, and the first house above all others which we
must associate with this spot is the Standish cottage,
built at the foot of Captain’s Hill by Alexander
Standish, the son of Myles, partly from materials
from his father’s house, which was burned down,
but whose cellar is still visible. This long,
low, gambrel-roofed structure, with a broad chimney
showing the date of 1666, was a long way ahead of the
first log cabins erected by the Pilgrims farther
than most of us realize, accustomed as we are to glass
instead of oiled paper in windows; to shingles, and
not thatch for roofs. It is fitting that this
ancient and charming dwelling should be associated
with one of the most romantic, most striking, names
in the Plymouth Colony. There are few more picturesque
personalities in our early history than Myles Standish.
Small in stature, fiery in spirit, a terror to the
Indians, and a strong arm to the Pilgrims, there is
no doubt that his determination to live in Duxbury which
he named for Duxborough Hall, his ancestral home in
Lancashire went far in obtaining for it
a separate incorporation and a separate church.
This was the first definite offshoot from the Plymouth
Colony, and was accompanied by the usual maternal fears.
While he could not forbid them going to Duxbury to
settle, yet, when they asked for a separate incorporation
and church, Bradford granted it most unwillingly.
He voiced the general sentiment when he wrote that
such a separation presaged the ruin of the church
“& will provoke y^e Lord’s displeasure
against them.”
However, such unkind predictions in
no wise bothered the sturdy little group who moved
over to the new location, needing room for their cattle
and their gardens, and most of all a sense of freedom
from the restrictions of the mother colony. The
son of Elder Brewster went, and in time the Elder
himself, and so did John Alden and his wife Priscilla,
whose courtship has been so well told by Longfellow
that it needs no further embellishing here. On
the grassy knoll where John and Priscilla built their
home in 1631, their grandson built the cottage which
now stands the property of the Alden Kindred
Association. John Alden seems to have been an
attractive young fellow it is easy to see
why Priscilla Mullins preferred him to the swart,
truculent widower but from our point of
view John Alden’s chief claim to fame is that
he was a friend of Myles Standish.
Let us, as we pay our respects to
Duxbury, pause for a moment and recall some of the
courageous adventures, some of the brave traits and
some of the tender ones, which make up our memory
of this doughty military commander. In the first
place, we must remember that he was never a member
of the church of the Pilgrims: there is even a
question if he were not like the rest of
his family in Lancashire a Roman Catholic;
and this immediately places him in a position of peculiar
distinction. From the first his mission was not
along ecclesiastical lines, but along military and
civil ones. The early histories are full of his
intrepid deeds: there was never an expedition
too dangerous or too difficult to daunt him.
He would attack with the utmost daring the hardest
or the humblest task. He was absolutely loyal
to the interest of the Colony, and during that first
dreadful winter when he was among the very few who
were not stricken with sickness, he tended the others
day and night, “unceasing in his loving care.”
As in many audacious characters this sweeter side
of his nature does not seem to have been fully appreciated
by his contemporaries, and we have the letter in which
Robinson, that “most learned, polished and modest
spirit,” writes to Bradford, and warns him to
have care about Standish. He loves him right well,
and is persuaded that God has given him to them in
mercy and for much good, if he is used aright; but
he fears that there may be wanting in him “that
tenderness of the life of man (made after God’s
image) which is meet.” This warning doubtless
flattered Standish, but Robinson’s later criticism
of his methods at Weymouth hurt the little captain
cruelly. He seems to have cherished an intense
affection for the Leyden pastor, such as valorous
natures often feel for meditative ones, and that Robinson
died before he Standish could
justify himself was a deep grief to the soldier to
whom mere physical hardships were as nothing.
We do not know a great deal about this relationship
between the two men: in this as in so many cases
the intimate stories of these men and women, “also
their love, and their hatred, and their envy is now
perished.” But we do know that thirty years
later when the gallant captain lay dying he wrote
in his will: “I give three pounds to Mercy
Robinson, whom I tenderly love for her grandfather’s
sake.” Surely one feels the touching eloquence
of this brief sentence the fitting close of a life
not only heroic in action, but deeply sensitive in
sentiment.
He died on his farm in Duxbury in
1656 when he was seventy-three, and the Myles Standish
Monument on Captain’s Hill, three hundred and
ten feet above the bay, is no more conspicuous than
his knightly and tender life among the people he elected
to serve. His two wives, and also Priscilla and
John Alden, for whom he entertained such lively love
and equally lively fury, all are buried here the
Captain’s last home fittingly marked by four
cannon and a sturdy boulder.
Not only for Standish and Alden is
Duxbury famous. The beloved William Brewster
himself moved to this new settlement, and up to a few
years ago the traces of the whitewood trees which
gave the name of “Eagle’s Nest”
to his house could be distinguished. One son Love lived
with the venerable elder, who was a widower, and his
other son Jonathan owned the neighboring farm.
In the sight of the Plymouth Colony their
first home in the new land the three men
often worked together, cutting trees and planting.
Others of the original Mayflower company
came too, leaving traces of themselves in such names
as Blackfriars Brook, Billingsgate, and Houndsditch names
which they brought from Old England.
The homes which these pioneers so
laboriously and so lovingly wrought what
were they? How did they compare with the modern
home and household? In Mr. Sheldon’s “History
of Deerfield” we find such a charming and vivid
picture of home life in the early days and
one that applies with equal accuracy to Duxbury that
we cannot do better than copy it here:
“The ample kitchen was the center
of the family life, social and industrial. Here
around the rough table, seated on rude stools or benches,
all partook of the plain and sometimes stinted fare.
A glance at the family gathered here after nightfall
on a winter’s day may prove of interest.
“After a supper of bean porridge
or hasty pudding and milk of which all partake in
common from a great pewter basin, or wooden bowl, with
spoons of wood, horn or pewter; after a reverent reading
of the Bible, and fervent supplications to the
Most High for prayer and guidance; after the watch
was set on the tall mount, and the vigilant sentinel
began pacing his lonely beat, the shutters were closed
and barred, and with a sense of security the occupations
of the long winter evening began. Here was a
picture of industry enjoined alike by the law of the
land and the stern necessities of the settlers.
All were busy. Idleness was a crime. On
the settle, or a low armchair, in the most sheltered
nook, sat the revered grandam as a term
of endearment called granny in red woolen
gown, and white linen cap, her gray hair and wrinkled
face reflecting the bright firelight, the long stocking
growing under her busy needles, while she watched
the youngling of the flock in the cradle by her side.
The good wife, in linsey-woolsey short-gown and red
petticoat steps lightly back and forth in calf pumps
beside the great wheel, or poising gracefully on the
right foot, the left hand extended with the roll or
bat, while with a wheel finger in the other, she gives
the wheel a few swift turns for a final twist to the
long-drawn thread of wool or tow. The continuous
buzz of the flax wheels, harmonizing with the spasmodic
hum of the big wheel, shows that the girls are preparing
a stock of linen against their wedding day. Less
active and more fitful rattled the quill wheel, where
the younger children are filling quills for the morrow’s
weaving.
“Craftsmen are still scarce,
and the yeoman must depend largely on his own skill
and resources. The grandsire, and the goodman,
his son, in blue woolen frocks, buckskin breeches,
long stockings, and clouted brogans with pewter buckles,
and the older boys in shirts of brown tow, waistcoat
and breeches of butternut-colored woolen homespun,
surrounded by piles of white hickory shavings, are
whittling out with keen Barlow jack-knives implements
for home use: ox-bows and bow-pins, axe-helves,
rakestales, forkstales, handles for spades and billhooks,
wooden shovels, flail staff and swingle, swingling
knives, or pokes and hog yokes for unruly cattle and
swine. The more ingenious, perhaps, are fashioning
buckets or powdering tubs, or weaving skeps, baskets
or snowshoes. Some, it may be, sit astride the
wooden shovel, shelling corn on its iron-shod edge,
while others are pounding it into samp or hoiminy
in the great wooden mortar.
“There are no lamps or candles,
but the red light from the burning pine knots on the
hearth glows over all, repeating, in fantastic pantomime
on the brown walls and closed shutters, the varied
activities around it. These are occasionally
brought into higher relief by the white flashes, as
the boys throw handfuls of hickory shavings onto the
forestick, or punch the back log with the long iron
peel, while wishing they had as ‘many shillings
as sparks go up the chimney.’ Then, the
smoke-stained joists and boards of the ceiling with
the twisted rings of pumpkin strings or crimson peppers
and festoons of apple, drying on poles hung beneath;
the men’s hats, the crook-necked squashes, the
skeins of thread and yarn hanging in bunches on the
wainscot; the sheen of the pewter plates and basins,
standing in rows on the shelves of the dresser; the
trusty firelock with powder horn, bandolier, and bullet
pouch, hanging on the summertree, and the bright brass
warming-pan behind the bedroom door all
stand revealed more clearly for an instant, showing
the provident care for the comfort and safety of the
household. Dimly seen in the corners of the room
are baskets in which are packed hands of flax from
the barn, where, under the flaxbrake, the swingling
knives and the coarse hackle, the shives and swingling
tow have been removed by the men; to-morrow the more
deft manipulations of the women will prepare these
bunches of fiber for the little wheel, and granny will
card the tow into bats, to be spun into tow yarn on
the big wheel. All quaff the sparkling cider
or foaming beer from the briskly circulating pewter
mug, which the last out of bed in the morning must
replenish from the barrel in the cellar.”
One notices the frequent reference
to beer in these old chronicles. The tea, over
which the colonists were to take such a dramatic stand
in a hundred years, had not yet been introduced into
England, and neither had coffee. Forks had not
yet made their appearance. In this admirable
picture Mr. Sheldon does not mention one of the evening
industries which was peculiarly characteristic of
the Plymouth Colony. This was the making of clapboards,
which with sassafras and beaver skins, constituted
for many years the principal cargo sent back to England
from the Colony. Another point the
size of the families. The mother of Governor
William Phips had twenty-one sons and five daughters,
and the Reverend John Sherman had six children by
his first wife and twenty by his second. These
were not uncommon figures in the early life of New
England; and with so many numbers within itself the
home life was a center for a very complete and variegated
industrial life. Surely it is a long cry from
these kitchen fireplaces so large that often
a horse had to be driven into the kitchen dragging
the huge back log these immense families,
to the kitchenette and one-child family of to-day!
This, then, was the old Duxbury:
the Duxbury of long, cold winters, privations, and
austerity. Down by the shore to-day is the new
Duxbury a Duxbury of automobiles, of business
men’s trains, of gay society at Powder Point,
where in the winter is the well-known boys’
school a Duxbury of summer cottages, white
and green along the shore, green and brown under the
pines. Of these summer homes many are new:
the Wright estate is one of the finest on the South
Shore, and the pleasant, spacious dwelling distinguished
by its handsome hedge of English privet formerly belonged
to Fanny Davenport, the actress. Others are old
houses, very tastefully, almost affectionately remodeled
by those for whom the things of the past have a special
lure. These remodeled cottages are, perhaps,
the prettiest of all. Those very ancient landmarks,
sagging into pathetic disrepair, present a sorrowful,
albeit an artistic, silhouette against the sky.
But these “new-old” cottages, with ruffled
muslin curtains at the small-paned, antique windows,
brave with a shining knocker on the green-painted
front door, and gay with old-fashioned gardens to
the side or in the rear these are a delight
to all, and an honor to both past and present.
Surely the fair town of Duxbury, which
so smilingly enticed the Pilgrims across the bay to
enjoy her sunny beach and rolling pasture lands, must
be happy to-day as she was then to feel her ground
so deeply tilled, and still to be so daintily adorned
with homes and gardens and with laughing life.