From the sweet-smelling Maryland
meadows it crawled,
Through the forest primeval,
o’er hills granite-walled;
On and up, up and on, till
it conquered the crest
Of the mountains and
wound away into the West.
’Twas the Highway of
Hope! And the pilgrims who trod
It were Lords of the Woodland
and Sons of the Sod;
And the hope of their hearts
was to win an abode
At the end the
far end of the National Road.
Brownsville.
Do you not know where it is located?
Do not ask any human being who ever lived in Brownsville
as to its location on the map that is, if
you value his friendship. Your ignorance of geography
will be exposed and you will be plainly informed:
“We do not want anything to do with a person
who does not know where Brownsville is located.”
Strange as it may seem, though many
excellent histories have been written, there is none
extant that has given any full and adequate description
of Brownsville’s early days and people quaint,
curious, serious, humorous, wise and otherwise good
people all.
Brownsville was the most important
town on that “Modern Appian Way,” the
National Road, or pike, extending from Baltimore, Maryland,
to the Ohio River, and lengthened beyond, in after
years, to Cincinnati and Richmond, Indiana.
Brownsville was founded soon after
this country gained its independence, although it
had been an established frontier post long before known
as Red Stone Old Fort. It was the center of the
Whiskey Insurrection, during which George Washington
gained his first military experience in the West,
experience that would have saved Braddock’s defeat
and death, had he taken Washington’s advice,
and might have changed the entire history of this
nation. But that England should control the American
colonies is but repeating history.
England is the only country in the
world that has successfully colonized her foreign
possessions. Therefore, Brownsville was founded,
and mostly settled, by the English, and to this day
her foremost citizens are Englishmen. This statement
of facts does not detract from the estimable qualities
of the Low Dutch who have drifted in from Bedford and
Somerset Counties.
Brownsville outputs “Monongahela
Rye Whiskey” and Chattland’s crackers
are world-famous food essentials.
Brownsville was at the head of navigation
on the Monongahela River in the palmy days of the
old “pike.”
Unlike the Appian Way, of which there
is no connected history but only glimpses of it in
the Bible, the old “pike” is embalmed in
history, in poem and prose. It commemorates an
epoch in history as fascinating as any recorded.
A highway so important, so largely instrumental in
the country’s early greatness and development
that it strengthened the ties between the states and
their peoples. Its legends so numerous, its incidents
so exciting that their chronicles read like fiction.
Brownsville grew and prospered while
the old “pike” was at the height of its
greatness. It was here the travellers from the
East or the West either embarked or disembarked from
the river steamers or the overland stage coach.
In the year 1868 the writer spent
four days and parts of as many nights in a stage coach
journey from Wheeling, West Virginia, to Baltimore,
Maryland, over the National Road. In August, 1910,
the same distance was covered in an automobile in
a little over a day and a night, with many stops and
visits to historical spots marked by recollections
of the old days and nights of this King’s Highway.
Brownsville, in the halcyon days of
the National Pike, was of greater commercial importance
than Pittsburg, her banks ranking higher and her manufactories
more numerous. This supremacy was maintained from
1818 to 1852.
When the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad
was opened to the West, the glories of the old “pike”
began to fade. The mechanical establishments,
especially the boat-building and marine engine shops,
among the biggest interests of Brownsville, kept in
the lead until well into the days of the Civil War.
Now, reader, will you not be a bit
abashed to ask: “Where is Brownsville?”
To Henry Clay belongs the credit of
first urging Congress to appropriate funds to build
the National Road, but to Albert Gallatin, who was
from the Brownsville section and achieved great distinction
while Treasurer of the United States, belongs the
honor of its conception. He was the first to
advocate the great benefits that would accrue to the
country if such a road were constructed.
Washington, when a mere youth, sent
to England a report urging the advisability of a military
road from the coast to the Ohio River. He suggested
the Indian trail across the Allegheny Mountains.
This trail was afterwards named Braddock’s Road.
It should have been called Washington’s Road,
as he, at the head of a detachment of Virginia troops,
traversed it one year before Braddock’s disastrous
invasion of the West.
All roads led to Brownsville in those days.
Did you ever hear of Workman’s
Hotel in Brownsville? It stands today as it did
one hundred years ago, at the head of Market Street.
It has housed Jackson, Harrison, Clay, Sam Houston,
Davy Crockett, James K. Polk, Shelly, Lafayette, Winfield
Scott, Pickens, John C. Calhoun, and hundreds of others
of less note.
James Workman, the landlord of this
old house of entertainment, was noted for his hospitality
and punctuality. When “Old Hickory”
Jackson, on his way to Washington to be inaugurated
President for be it remembered the old
“pike” was the only highway between the
East and West was Workman’s guest,
the citizens of Brownsville tendered the newly elected
President a public reception. The Presbyterian
Church was crowded, the exercises long drawn out.
During their progress, Jimmy Workman stalked down
the middle aisle. Facing about, after passing
the pew in which General Jackson sat, he said, in
a voice plainly heard all over the church:
“General Jackson, dinner is
ready and if you do not come soon it won’t be
fit to eat.”
So great was Workman’s devotion
to his guests that he imagined the dinner was more
essential than speeches or prayers, and such was the
respect for the famous landlord that the services were
curtailed.
Brownsville and Bridgeport were boroughs
separated by Dunlap’s Creek, spanned by the
first iron bridge built in America. It is standing
today as solid as the reputation of the old burgs
it joins together. Brownsville had the first
bridge that spanned the Monongahela River. In
fact Brownsville had a bridge long before Pittsburgh.
While Bill Brown and his progenitors were ferrying
Pittsburgh inhabitants across the river in a skiff,
Brownsville folks were crossing on a “kivered”
bridge. And were it not for further humiliating
Bill Brown, the discoverer of Pittsburgh, still greater
glories could be recalled for Brownsville.
James G. Blaine was born on the west
bank of the Monongahela River. The land on which
the Blaine house stood was the property of an Indian,
Peter by name. He sold the land to Blaine’s
grandfather, Neil Gellispie, the price agreed upon
being forty shillings an acre, payable in installments
of money, iron and one negro man, a slave. Ye
gods! How did the “Plumed Knight’s”
detractors in the “Rum-Romanism-and-Rebellion”
campaign overlook the fact that the Blaines once bought
and sold slaves?
Philander C. Knox was born on the hill on the east
side of the river.
Professor John Brashear was born on the western edge
of the town.
Elisha Gray, the original inventor
of the telephone, was from Brownsville; as were John
Herbertson, builder of the first iron bridge in the
United States; John Snowden, builder of two iron gunboats
for the Civil War, and Bishop Arnett, of Ohio.
Brownsville first promulgated a word
of slang that has greatly beautified the English language.
But let it be recorded to the old
town’s credit, the evil was propagated without
malice aforethought. Brownsville’s borough
limits show its shape to be somewhat like that of
a hot-air balloon a big body with a neck;
and the narrow strip of land between the river and
Dunlap’s Creek stretching toward Bridgeport
from time out of mind has been designated by the inhabitants
of either side of the creek as the “neck.”
Brownsville had a temperance revival.
Strict observance of the liquor laws was being enforced.
Jack Beckley was haled to court on a dray, too oblivious
of everything to answer any charge. The burgess,
before committing him to the lock-up, questioned the
watchman, Jim Bench, as to where Jack got his liquor.
“Did he get it on the hill?”
The officer truthfully answered:
“No, he got it in the neck.”
The town took up the phrase and thereafter
any person who met with any sort of mishap “got
it in the neck.”