After leaving Vienna, and long before
you come to Budapest, the Danube enters a region of
singular loneliness and desolation, where its waters
spread away on all sides regardless of a main channel,
and the country becomes a swamp for miles upon miles,
covered by a vast sea of low willow-bushes. On
the big maps this deserted area is painted in a fluffy
blue, growing fainter in color as it leaves the banks,
and across it may be seen in large straggling letters
the word Sümpfe, meaning marshes.
In high flood this great acreage of
sand, shingle-beds, and willow-grown islands is almost
topped by the water, but in normal seasons the bushes
bend and rustle in the free winds, showing their silver
leaves to the sunshine in an ever-moving plain of
bewildering beauty. These willows never attain
to the dignity of trees; they have no rigid trunks;
they remain humble bushes, with rounded tops and soft
outline, swaying on slender stems that answer to the
least pressure of the wind; supple as grasses, and
so continually shifting that they somehow give the
impression that the entire plain is moving and alive.
For the wind sends waves rising and falling over the
whole surface, waves of leaves instead of waves of
water, green swells like the sea, too, until the branches
turn and lift, and then silvery white as their underside
turns to the sun.
Happy to slip beyond the control of
the stern banks, the Danube here wanders about at
will among the intricate network of channels intersecting
the islands everywhere with broad avenues down which
the waters pour with a shouting sound; making whirlpools,
eddies, and foaming rapids; tearing at the sandy banks;
carrying away masses of shore and willow-clumps; and
forming new islands innumerably which shift daily in
size and shape and possess at best an impermanent
life, since the flood-time obliterates their very
existence.
Properly speaking, this fascinating
part of the river’s life begins soon after leaving
Pressburg, and we, in our Canadian canoe, with gipsy
tent and frying-pan on board, reached it on the crest
of a rising flood about mid-July. That very same
morning, when the sky was reddening before sunrise,
we had slipped swiftly through still-sleeping Vienna,
leaving it a couple of hours later a mere patch of
smoke against the blue hills of the Wienerwald
on the horizon; we had breakfasted below Fischeramend
under a grove of birch trees roaring in the wind;
and had then swept on the tearing current past Orth,
Hainburg, Petronell (the old Roman Carnuntum of Marcus
Aurelius), and so under the frowning heights of Thelsen
on a spur of the Carpathians, where the March steals
in quietly from the left and the frontier is crossed
between Austria and Hungary.
Racing along at twelve kilometers
an hour soon took us well into Hungary, and the muddy
waters sure sign of flood sent
us aground on many a shingle-bed, and twisted us like
a cork in many a sudden belching whirlpool before
the towers of Pressburg (Hungarian, Poszony) showed
against the sky; and then the canoe, leaping like
a spirited horse, flew at top speed under the grey
walls, negotiated safely the sunken chain of the Fliegende
Brücke ferry, turned the corner sharply to the
left, and plunged on yellow foam into the wilderness
of islands, sandbanks, and swamp-land beyond the
land of the willows.
The change came suddenly, as when
a series of bioscope pictures snaps down on the streets
of a town and shifts without warning into the scenery
of lake and forest. We entered the land of desolation
on wings, and in less than half an hour there was
neither boat nor fishing-hut nor red roof, nor any
single sign of human habitation and civilization within
sight. The sense of remoteness from the world
of humankind, the utter isolation, the fascination
of this singular world of willows, winds, and waters,
instantly laid its spell upon us both, so that we
allowed laughingly to one another that we ought by
rights to have held some special kind of passport to
admit us, and that we had, somewhat audaciously, come
without asking leave into a separate little kingdom
of wonder and magic a kingdom that was reserved
for the use of others who had a right to it, with everywhere
unwritten warnings to trespassers for those who had
the imagination to discover them.
Though still early in the afternoon,
the ceaseless buffetings of a most tempestuous wind
made us feel weary, and we at once began casting about
for a suitable camping-ground for the night.
But the bewildering character of the islands made
landing difficult; the swirling flood carried us in
shore and then swept us out again; the willow branches
tore our hands as we seized them to stop the canoe,
and we pulled many a yard of sandy bank into the water
before at length we shot with a great sideways blow
from the wind into a backwater and managed to beach
the bows in a cloud of spray. Then we lay panting
and laughing after our exertions on the hot yellow
sand, sheltered from the wind, and in the full blaze
of a scorching sun, a cloudless blue sky above, and
an immense army of dancing, shouting willow bushes,
closing in from all sides, shining with spray and clapping
their thousand little hands as though to applaud the
success of our efforts.
“What a river!” I said
to my companion, thinking of all the way we had traveled
from the source in the Black Forest, and how he had
often been obliged to wade and push in the upper shallows
at the beginning of June.
“Won’t stand much nonsense
now, will it?” he said, pulling the canoe a
little farther into safety up the sand, and then composing
himself for a nap.
I lay by his side, happy and peaceful
in the bath of the elements water, wind,
sand, and the great fire of the sun thinking
of the long journey that lay behind us, and of the
great stretch before us to the Black Sea, and how
lucky I was to have such a delightful and charming
traveling companion as my friend, the Swede.
We had made many similar journeys
together, but the Danube, more than any other river
I knew, impressed us from the very beginning with its
aliveness. From its tiny bubbling entry into the
world among the pinewood gardens of Donaueschingen,
until this moment when it began to play the great
river-game of losing itself among the deserted swamps,
unobserved, unrestrained, it had seemed to us like
following the grown of some living creature.
Sleepy at first, but later developing violent desires
as it became conscious of its deep soul, it rolled,
like some huge fluid being, through all the countries
we had passed, holding our little craft on its mighty
shoulders, playing roughly with us sometimes, yet always
friendly and well-meaning, till at length we had come
inevitably to regard it as a Great Personage.
How, indeed, could it be otherwise,
since it told us so much of its secret life?
At night we heard it singing to the moon as we lay
in our tent, uttering that odd sibilant note peculiar
to itself and said to be caused by the rapid tearing
of the pebbles along its bed, so great is its hurrying
speed. We knew, too, the voice of its gurgling
whirlpools, suddenly bubbling up on a surface previously
quite calm; the roar of its shallows and swift rapids;
its constant steady thundering below all mere surface
sounds; and that ceaseless tearing of its icy waters
at the banks. How it stood up and shouted when
the rains fell flat upon its face! And how its
laughter roared out when the wind blew up-stream and
tried to stop its growing speed! We knew all
its sounds and voices, its tumblings and foamings,
its unnecessary splashing against the bridges; that
self-conscious chatter when there were hills to look
on; the affected dignity of its speech when it passed
through the little towns, far too important to laugh;
and all these faint, sweet whisperings when the sun
caught it fairly in some slow curve and poured down
upon it till the steam rose.
It was full of tricks, too, in its
early life before the great world knew it. There
were places in the upper reaches among the Swabian
forests, when yet the first whispers of its destiny
had not reached it, where it elected to disappear
through holes in the ground, to appear again on the
other side of the porous limestone hills and start
a new river with another name; leaving, too, so little
water in its own bed that we had to climb out and
wade and push the canoe through miles of shallows.
And a chief pleasure, in those early
days of its irresponsible youth, was to lie low, like
Brer Fox, just before the little turbulent tributaries
came to join it from the Alps, and to refuse to acknowledge
them when in, but to run for miles side by side, the
dividing line well marked, the very levels different,
the Danube utterly declining to recognize the newcomer.
Below Passau, however, it gave up this particular
trick, for there the Inn comes in with a thundering
power impossible to ignore, and so pushes and incommodes
the parent river that there is hardly room for them
in the long twisting gorge that follows, and the Danube
is shoved this way and that against the cliffs, and
forced to hurry itself with great waves and much dashing
to and fro in order to get through in time. And
during the fight our canoe slipped down from its shoulder
to its breast, and had the time of its life among
the struggling waves. But the Inn taught the old
river a lesson, and after Passau it no longer
pretended to ignore new arrivals.
This was many days back, of course,
and since then we had come to know other aspects of
the great creature, and across the Bavarian wheat plain
of Straubing she wandered so slowly under the blazing
June sun that we could well imagine only the surface
inches were water, while below there moved, concealed
as by a silken mantle, a whole army of Undines, passing
silently and unseen down to the sea, and very leisurely
too, lest they be discovered.
Much, too, we forgave her because
of her friendliness to the birds and animals that
haunted the shores. Cormorants lined the banks
in lonely places in rows like short black palings;
grey crows crowded the shingle-beds; storks stood
fishing in the vistas of shallower water that opened
up between the islands, and hawks, swans, and marsh
birds of all sorts filled the air with glinting wings
and singing, petulant cries. It was impossible
to feel annoyed with the river’s vagaries after
seeing a deer leap with a splash into the water at
sunrise and swim past the bows of the canoe; and often
we saw fawns peering at us from the underbrush, or
looked straight into the brown eyes of a stag as we
charged full tilt round a corner and entered another
reach of the river. Foxes, too, everywhere haunted
the banks, tripping daintily among the driftwood and
disappearing so suddenly that it was impossible to
see how they managed it.
But now, after leaving Pressburg,
everything changed a little, and the Danube became
more serious. It ceased trifling. It was
half-way to the Black Sea, within seeming distance
almost of other, stranger countries where no tricks
would be permitted or understood. It became suddenly
grown-up, and claimed our respect and even our awe.
It broke out into three arms, for one thing, that
only met again a hundred kilometers farther down,
and for a canoe there were no indications which one
was intended to be followed.
“If you take a side channel,”
said the Hungarian officer we met in the Pressburg
shop while buying provisions, “you may find yourselves,
when the flood subsides, forty miles from anywhere,
high and dry, and you may easily starve. There
are no people, no farms, no fishermen. I warn
you not to continue. The river, too, is still
rising, and this wind will increase.”
The rising river did not alarm us
in the least, but the matter of being left high and
dry by a sudden subsidence of the waters might be serious,
and we had consequently laid in an extra stock of provisions.
For the rest, the officer’s prophecy held true,
and the wind, blowing down a perfectly clear sky,
increased steadily till it reached the dignity of a
westerly gale.
It was earlier than usual when we
camped, for the sun was a good hour or two from the
horizon, and leaving my friend still asleep on the
hot sand, I wandered about in desultory examination
of our hotel. The island, I found, was less than
an acre in extent, a mere sandy bank standing some
two or three feet above the level of the river.
The far end, pointing into the sunset, was covered
with flying spray which the tremendous wind drove off
the crests of the broken waves. It was triangular
in shape, with the apex up stream.
I stood there for several minutes,
watching the impetuous crimson flood bearing down
with a shouting roar, dashing in waves against the
bank as though to sweep it bodily away, and then swirling
by in two foaming streams on either side. The
ground seemed to shake with the shock and rush, while
the furious movement of the willow bushes as the wind
poured over them increased the curious illusion that
the island itself actually moved. Above, for
a mile or two, I could see the great river descending
upon me; it was like looking up the slope of a sliding
hill, white with foam, and leaping up everywhere to
show itself to the sun.
The rest of the island was too thickly
grown with willows to make walking pleasant, but I
made the tour, nevertheless. From the lower end
the light, of course, changed, and the river looked
dark and angry. Only the backs of the flying
waves were visible, streaked with foam, and pushed
forcibly by the great puffs of wind that fell upon
them from behind. For a short mile it was visible,
pouring in and out among the islands, and then disappearing
with a huge sweep into the willows, which closed about
it like a herd of monstrous antediluvian creatures
crowding down to drink. They made me think of
gigantic sponge-like growths that sucked the river
up into themselves. They caused it to vanish
from sight. They herded there together in such
overpowering numbers.
Altogether it was an impressive scene,
with its utter loneliness, its bizarre suggestion;
and as I gazed, long and curiously, a singular emotion
began to stir somewhere in the depths of me. Midway
in my delight of the wild beauty, there crept, unbidden
and unexplained, a curious feeling of disquietude,
almost of alarm.
A rising river, perhaps, always suggests
something of the ominous; many of the little islands
I saw before me would probably have been swept away
by the morning; this resistless, thundering flood
of water touched the sense of awe. Yet I was
aware that my uneasiness lay deeper far than the emotions
of awe and wonder. It was not that I felt.
Nor had it directly to do with the power of the driving
wind this shouting hurricane that might
almost carry up a few acres of willows into the air
and scatter them like so much chaff over the landscape.
The wind was simply enjoying itself, for nothing rose
out of the flat landscape to stop it, and I was conscious
of sharing its great game with a kind of pleasurable
excitement. Yet this novel emotion had nothing
to do with the wind. Indeed, so vague was the
sense of distress I experienced, that it was impossible
to trace it to its source and deal with it accordingly,
though I was aware somehow that it had to do with
my realization of our utter insignificance before this
unrestrained power of the elements about me.
The huge-grown river had something to do with it too a
vague, unpleasant idea that we had somehow trifled
with these great elemental forces in whose power we
lay helpless every hour of the day and night.
For here, indeed, they were gigantically at play together,
and the sight appealed to the imagination.
But my emotion, so far as I could
understand it, seemed to attach itself more particularly
to the willow bushes, to these acres and acres of
willows, crowding, so thickly growing there, swarming
everywhere the eye could reach, pressing upon the
river as though to suffocate it, standing in dense
array mile after mile beneath the sky, watching, waiting,
listening. And, apart quite from the elements,
the willows connected themselves subtly with my malaise,
attacking the mind insidiously somehow by reason of
their vast numbers, and contriving in some way or
other to represent to the imagination a new and mighty
power, a power, moreover, not altogether friendly
to us.
Great revelations of nature, of course,
never fail to impress in one way or another, and I
was no stranger to moods of the kind. Mountains
overawe and oceans terrify, while the mystery of great
forests exercises a spell peculiarly its own.
But all these, at one point or another, somewhere link
on intimately with human life and human experience.
They stir comprehensible, even if alarming, emotions.
They tend on the whole to exalt.
With this multitude of willows, however,
it was something far different, I felt. Some
essence emanated from them that besieged the heart.
A sense of awe awakened, true, but of awe touched
somewhere by a vague terror. Their serried ranks,
growing everywhere darker about me as the shadows deepened,
moving furiously yet softly in the wind, woke in me
the curious and unwelcome suggestion that we had trespassed
here upon the borders of an alien world, a world where
we were intruders, a world where we were not wanted
or invited to remain where we ran grave
risks perhaps!
The feeling, however, though it refused
to yield its meaning entirely to analysis, did not
at the time trouble me by passing into menace.
Yet it never left me quite, even during the very practical
business of putting up the tent in a hurricane of
wind and building a fire for the stew-pot. It
remained, just enough to bother and perplex, and to
rob a most delightful camping-ground of a good portion
of its charm. To my companion, however, I said
nothing, for he was a man I considered devoid of imagination.
In the first place, I could never have explained to
him what I meant, and in the second, he would have
laughed stupidly at me if I had.
There was a slight depression in the
center of the island, and here we pitched the tent.
The surrounding willows broke the wind a bit.
“A poor camp,” observed
the imperturbable Swede when at last the tent stood
upright, “no stones and precious little firewood.
I’m for moving on early tomorrow eh?
This sand won’t hold anything.”
But the experience of a collapsing
tent at midnight had taught us many devices, and we
made the cozy gipsy house as safe as possible, and
then set about collecting a store of wood to last
till bed-time. Willow bushes drop no branches,
and driftwood was our only source of supply. We
hunted the shores pretty thoroughly. Everywhere
the banks were crumbling as the rising flood tore
at them and carried away great portions with a splash
and a gurgle.
“The island’s much smaller
than when we landed,” said the accurate Swede.
“It won’t last long at this rate.
We’d better drag the canoe close to the tent,
and be ready to start at a moment’s notice.
I shall sleep in my clothes.”
He was a little distance off, climbing
along the bank, and I heard his rather jolly laugh
as he spoke.
“By Jove!” I heard him
call, a moment later, and turned to see what had caused
his exclamation. But for the moment he was hidden
by the willows, and I could not find him.
“What in the world’s this?”
I heard him cry again, and this time his voice had
become serious.
I ran up quickly and joined him on
the bank. He was looking over the river, pointing
at something in the water.
“Good heavens, it’s a
man’s body!” he cried excitedly. “Look!”
A black thing, turning over and over
in the foaming waves, swept rapidly past. It
kept disappearing and coming up to the surface again.
It was about twenty feet from the shore, and just
as it was opposite to where we stood it lurched round
and looked straight at us. We saw its eyes reflecting
the sunset, and gleaming an odd yellow as the body
turned over. Then it gave a swift, gulping plunge,
and dived out of sight in a flash.
“An otter, by gad!” we
exclaimed in the same breath, laughing.
It was an otter, alive, and out on
the hunt; yet it had looked exactly like the body
of a drowned man turning helplessly in the current.
Far below it came to the surface once again, and we
saw its black skin, wet and shining in the sunlight.
Then, too, just as we turned back,
our arms full of driftwood, another thing happened
to recall us to the river bank. This time it really
was a man, and what was more, a man in a boat.
Now a small boat on the Danube was an unusual sight
at any time, but here in this deserted region, and
at flood time, it was so unexpected as to constitute
a real event. We stood and stared.
Whether it was due to the slanting
sunlight, or the refraction from the wonderfully illumined
water, I cannot say, but, whatever the cause, I found
it difficult to focus my sight properly upon the flying
apparition. It seemed, however, to be a man standing
upright in a sort of flat-bottomed boat, steering
with a long oar, and being carried down the opposite
shore at a tremendous pace. He apparently was
looking across in our direction, but the distance
was too great and the light too uncertain for us to
make out very plainly what he was about. It seemed
to me that he was gesticulating and making signs at
us. His voice came across the water to us shouting
something furiously, but the wind drowned it so that
no single word was audible. There was something
curious about the whole appearance man,
boat, signs, voice that made an impression
on me out of all proportion to its cause.
“He’s crossing himself!”
I cried. “Look, he’s making the sign
of the Cross!”
“I believe you’re right,”
the Swede said, shading his eyes with his hand and
watching the man out of sight. He seemed to be
gone in a moment, melting away down there into the
sea of willows where the sun caught them in the bend
of the river and turned them into a great crimson wall
of beauty. Mist, too, had begun to ruse, so that
the air was hazy.
“But what in the world is he
doing at nightfall on this flooded river?” I
said, half to myself. “Where is he going
at such a time, and what did he mean by his signs
and shouting? D’you think he wished to warn
us about something?”
“He saw our smoke, and thought
we were spirits probably,” laughed my companion.
“These Hungarians believe in all sorts of rubbish;
you remember the shopwoman at Pressburg warning us
that no one ever landed here because it belonged to
some sort of beings outside man’s world!
I suppose they believe in fairies and elementals,
possibly demons, too. That peasant in the boat
saw people on the islands for the first time in his
life,” he added, after a slight pause, “and
it scared him, that’s all.”
The Swede’s tone of voice was
not convincing, and his manner lacked something that
was usually there. I noted the change instantly
while he talked, though without being able to label
it precisely.
“If they had enough imagination,”
I laughed loudly I remember trying to make
as much noise as I could “they might
well people a place like this with the old gods of
antiquity. The Romans must have haunted all this
region more or less with their shrines and sacred groves
and elemental deities.”
The subject dropped and we returned
to our stew-pot, for my friend was not given to imaginative
conversation as a rule. Moreover, just then I
remember feeling distinctly glad that he was not imaginative;
his stolid, practical nature suddenly seemed to me
welcome and comforting. It was an admirable temperament,
I felt; he could steer down rapids like a red Indian,
shoot dangerous bridges and whirlpools better than
any white man I ever saw in a canoe. He was a
grand fellow for an adventurous trip, a tower of strength
when untoward things happened. I looked at his
strong face and light curly hair as he staggered along
under his pile of driftwood (twice the size of mine!),
and I experienced a feeling of relief. Yes, I
was distinctly glad just then that the Swede was what
he was, and that he never made remarks that suggested
more than they said.
“The river’s still rising,
though,” he added, as if following out some
thoughts of his own, and dropping his load with a gasp.
“This island will be under water in two days
if it goes on.”
“I wish the wind would go down,”
I said. “I don’t care a fig for the
river.”
The flood, indeed, had no terrors
for us; we could get off at ten minutes’ notice,
and the more water the better we liked it. It
meant an increasing current and the obliteration of
the treacherous shingle-beds that so often threatened
to tear the bottom out of our canoe.
Contrary to our expectations, the
wind did not go down with the sun. It seemed
to increase with the darkness, howling overhead and
shaking the willows round us like straws. Curious
sounds accompanied it sometimes, like the explosion
of heavy guns, and it fell upon the water and the island
in great flat blows of immense power. It made
me think of the sounds a planet must make, could we
only hear it, driving along through space.
But the sky kept wholly clear of clouds,
and soon after supper the full moon rose up in the
east and covered the river and the plain of shouting
willows with a light like the day.
We lay on the sandy patch beside the
fire, smoking, listening to the noises of the night
round us, and talking happily of the journey we had
already made, and of our plans ahead. The map
lay spread in the door of the tent, but the high wind
made it hard to study, and presently we lowered the
curtain and extinguished the lantern. The firelight
was enough to smoke and see each other’s faces
by, and the sparks flew about overhead like fireworks.
A few yards beyond, the river gurgled and hissed, and
from time to time a heavy splash announced the falling
away of further portions of the bank.
Our talk, I noticed, had to do with
the faraway scenes and incidents of our first camps
in the Black Forest, or of other subjects altogether
remote from the present setting, for neither of us
spoke of the actual moment more than was necessary almost
as though we had agreed tacitly to avoid discussion
of the camp and its incidents. Neither the otter
nor the boatman, for instance, received the honor
of a single mention, though ordinarily these would
have furnished discussion for the greater part of
the evening. They were, of course, distinct events
in such a place.
The scarcity of wood made it a business
to keep the fire going, for the wind, that drove the
smoke in our faces wherever we sat, helped at the same
time to make a forced draught. We took it in turn
to make some foraging expeditions into the darkness,
and the quantity the Swede brought back always made
me feel that he took an absurdly long time finding
it; for the fact was I did not care much about being
left alone, and yet it always seemed to be my turn
to grub about among the bushes or scramble along the
slippery banks in the moonlight. The long day’s
battle with wind and water such wind and
such water! had tired us both, and an early
bed was the obvious program. Yet neither of us
made the move for the tent. We lay there, tending
the fire, talking in desultory fashion, peering about
us into the dense willow bushes, and listening to
the thunder of wind and river. The loneliness
of the place had entered our very bones, and silence
seemed natural, for after a bit the sound of our voices
became a trifle unreal and forced; whispering would
have been the fitting mode of communication, I felt,
and the human voice, always rather absurd amid the
roar of the elements, now carried with it something
almost illegitimate. It was like talking out
loud in church, or in some place where it was not
lawful, perhaps not quite safe, to be overheard.
The eeriness of this lonely island,
set among a million willows, swept by a hurricane,
and surrounded by hurrying deep waters, touched us
both, I fancy. Untrodden by man, almost unknown
to man, it lay there beneath the moon, remote from
human influence, on the frontier of another world,
an alien world, a world tenanted by willows only and
the souls of willows. And we, in our rashness,
had dared to invade it, even to make use of it!
Something more than the power of its mystery stirred
in me as I lay on the sand, feet to fire, and peered
up through the leaves at the stars. For the last
time I rose to get firewood.
“When this has burnt up,”
I said firmly, “I shall turn in,” and my
companion watched me lazily as I moved off into the
surrounding shadows.
For an unimaginative man I thought
he seemed unusually receptive that night, unusually
open to suggestion of things other than sensory.
He too was touched by the beauty and loneliness of
the place. I was not altogether pleased, I remember,
to recognize this slight change in him, and instead
of immediately collecting sticks, I made my way to
the far point of the island where the moonlight on
plain and river could be seen to better advantage.
The desire to be alone had come suddenly upon me; my
former dread returned in force; there was a vague
feeling in me I wished to face and probe to the bottom.
When I reached the point of sand jutting
out among the waves, the spell of the place descended
upon me with a positive shock. No mere “scenery”
could have produced such an effect. There was
something more here, something to alarm.
I gazed across the waste of wild waters;
I watched the whispering willows; I heard the ceaseless
beating of the tireless wind; and, one and all, each
in its own way, stirred in me this sensation of a strange
distress. But the willows especially; for ever
they went on chattering and talking among themselves,
laughing a little, shrilly crying out, sometimes sighing but
what it was they made so much to-do about belonged
to the secret life of the great plain they inhabited.
And it was utterly alien to the world I knew, or to
that of the wild yet kindly elements. They made
me think of a host of beings from another plane of
life, another evolution altogether, perhaps, all discussing
a mystery known only to themselves. I watched
them moving busily together, oddly shaking their big
bushy heads, twirling their myriad leaves even when
there was no wind. They moved of their own will
as though alive, and they touched, by some incalculable
method, my own keen sense of the horrible.
There they stood in the moonlight,
like a vast army surrounding our camp, shaking their
innumerable silver spears defiantly, formed all ready
for an attack.
The psychology of places, for some
imaginations at least, is very vivid; for the wanderer,
especially, camps have their “note” either
of welcome or rejection. At first it may not
always be apparent, because the busy preparations
of tent and cooking prevent, but with the first pause after
supper usually it comes and announces itself.
And the note of this willow-camp now became unmistakably
plain to me; we were interlopers, trespassers; we
were not welcomed. The sense of unfamiliarity
grew upon me as I stood there watching. We touched
the frontier of a region where our presence was resented.
For a night’s lodging we might perhaps be tolerated;
but for a prolonged and inquisitive stay No!
by all the gods of the trees and wilderness, no!
We were the first human influences upon this island,
and we were not wanted. The willows were against
us.
Strange thoughts like these, bizarre
fancies, borne I know not whence, found lodgment in
my mind as I stood listening. What, I thought,
if, after all, these crouching willows proved to be
alive; if suddenly they should rise up, like a swarm
of living creatures, marshaled by the gods whose territory
we had invaded, sweep towards us off the vast swamps,
booming overhead in the night and then
settle down! As I looked it was so easy to imagine
they actually moved, crept nearer, retreated a little,
huddled together in masses, hostile, waiting for the
great wind that should finally start them a-running.
I could have sworn their aspect changed a little, and
their ranks deepened and pressed more closely together.
The melancholy shrill cry of a night-bird
sounded overhead, and suddenly I nearly lost my balance
as the piece of bank I stood upon fell with a great
splash into the river, undermined by the flood.
I stepped back just in time, and went on hunting for
firewood again, half laughing at the odd fancies that
crowded so thickly into my mind and cast their spell
upon me. I recalled the Swede’s remark
about moving on next day, and I was just thinking
that I fully agreed with him, when I turned with a
start and saw the subject of my thoughts standing
immediately in front of me. He was quite close.
The roar of the elements had covered his approach.