The First Church of Tiverton stands
on a hill, whence it overlooks the little village,
with one or two pine-shaded neighborhoods beyond, and,
when the air is clear, a thin blue line of upland delusively
like the sea. Set thus austerely aloft, it seems
now a survival of the day when men used to go to meeting
gun in hand, and when one stayed, a lookout by the
door, to watch and listen. But this the present
dwellers do not remember. Conceding not a sigh
to the holy and strenuous past, they lament - and
the more as they grow older - the stiff climb
up the hill, albeit to rest in so sweet a sanctuary
at the top. For it is sweet indeed. A soft
little wind seems always to be stirring there, on summer
Sundays a messenger of good. It runs whispering
about, and wafts in all sorts of odors: honey
of the milk-weed and wild rose, and a Christmas tang
of the evergreens just below. It carries away
something, too - scents calculated to bewilder
the thrift-hunting bee: sometimes a whiff of
peppermint from an old lady’s pew, but oftener
the breath of musk and southernwood, gathered in ancient
gardens, and borne up here to embroider the preacher’s
drowsy homilies, and remind us, when we faint, of
the keen savor of righteousness.
Here in the church do we congregate
from week to week; but behind it, on a sloping hillside,
is the last home of us all, the old burying-ground,
overrun with a briery tangle, and relieved by Nature’s
sweet and cunning hand from the severe decorum set
ordinarily about the dead. Our very faithlessness
has made it fair. There was a time when we were
a little ashamed of it. We regarded it with affection,
indeed, but affection of the sort accorded some rusty
relative who has lain too supine in the rut of years.
Thus, with growing ambition came, in due course, the
project of a new burying-ground. This we dignified,
even in common speech; it was always grandly “the
Cemetery.” While it lay unrealized in the
distance, the home of our forbears fell into neglect,
and Nature marched in, according to her lavishness,
and adorned what we ignored. The white alder
crept farther and farther from its bounds; tansy and
wild rose rioted in profusion, and soft patches of
violets smiled to meet the spring. Here were,
indeed, great riches, “a little of everything”
that pasture life affords: a hardy bed of checkerberry,
crimson strawberries nodding on long stalks, and in
one sequestered corner the beloved Linnaea. It
seemed a consecrated pasture shut off from daily use,
and so given up to pleasantness that you could scarcely
walk there without setting foot on some precious outgrowth
of the spring, or pushing aside a summer loveliness
better made for wear.
Ambition had its fulfillment.
We bought our Cemetery, a large, green tract, quite
square, and lying open to the sun. But our pendulum
had swung too wide. Like many folk who suffer
from one discomfort, we had gone to the utmost extreme
and courted another. We were tired of climbing
hills, and so we pressed too far into the lowland;
and the first grave dug in our Cemetery showed three
inches of water at the bottom. It was in “Prince’s
new lot,” and there his young daughter was to
lie. But her lover had stood by while the men
were making the grave; and, looking into the ooze
below, he woke to the thought of her fair young body
there.
“God!” they heard him
say, “she sha’n’t lay so. Leave
it as it is, an’ come up into the old buryin’-ground.
There’s room enough by me.”
The men, all mates of his, stopped
work without a glance and followed him; and up there
in the dearer shrine her place was made. The father
said but a word at her changed estate. Neighbors
had hurried in to bring him the news; he went first
to the unfinished grave in the Cemetery, and then
strode up the hill, where the men had not yet done.
After watching them for a while in silence, he turned
aside; but he came back to drop a trembling hand upon
the lover’s arm.
“I guess,” he said miserably,
“she’d full as lieves lay here by you.”
And she will be quite beside him,
though, in the beaten ways of earth, others have come
between. For years he lived silently and apart;
but when his mother died, and he and his father were
left staring at the dulled embers of life, he married
a good woman, who perhaps does not deify early dreams;
yet she is tender of them, and at the death of her
own child it was she who went toiling up to the graveyard,
to see that its little place did not encroach too
far. She gave no reason, but we all knew it was
because she meant to let her husband lie there by the
long-loved guest.
Naturally enough, after this incident
of the forsaken grave, we conceived a strange horror
of the new Cemetery, and it has remained deserted
to this day. It is nothing but a meadow now, with
that one little grassy hollow in it to tell a piteous
tale. It is mown by any farmer who chooses to
take it for a price; but we regard it differently
from any other plot of ground. It is “the
Cemetery,” and always will be. We wonder
who has bought the grass. “Eli’s got
the Cemetery this year,” we say. And sometimes
awe-stricken little squads of school children lead
one another there, hand in hand, to look at the grave
where Annie Prince was going to be buried when her
beau took her away. They never seem to connect
that heart-broken wraith of a lover with the bent farmer
who goes to and fro driving the cows. He wears
patched overalls, and has sciatica in winter; but
I have seen the gleam of youth awakened, though remotely,
in his eyes. I do not believe he ever quite forgets;
there are moments, now and then, at dusk or midnight,
all his for poring over those dulled pages of the
past.
After we had elected to abide by our
old home, we voted an enlargement of its bounds; and
thereby hangs a tale of outlawed revenge. Long
years ago “old Abe Eaton” quarreled with
his twin brother, and vowed, as the last fiat of an
eternal divorce, “I won’t be buried in
the same yard with ye!”
The brother died first; and because
he lay within a little knoll beside the fence, Abe
willfully set a public seal on that iron oath by purchasing
a strip of land outside, wherein he should himself
be buried. Thus they would rest in a hollow correspondence,
the fence between. It all fell out as he ordained,
for we in Tiverton are cheerfully willing to give
the dead their way. Lax enough is the helpless
hand in the fictitious stiffness of its grasp; and
we are not the people to deny it holding, by courtesy
at least. Soon enough does the sceptre of mortality
crumble and fall. So Abe was buried according
to his wish. But when necessity commanded us
to add unto ourselves another acre, we took in his
grave with it, and the fence, falling into decay, was
never renewed. There he lies, in affectionate
decorum, beside the brother he hated; and thus does
the greater good wipe out the individual wrong.
So now, as in ancient times, we toil
steeply up here, with the dead upon his bier; for
not often in Tiverton do we depend on that uncouth
monstrosity, the hearse. It is not that we do
not own one, - a rigid box of that name has
belonged to us now for many a year; and when Sudleigh
came out with a new one, plumes, trappings, and all,
we broached the idea of emulating her. But the
project fell through after Brad Freeman’s contented
remark that he guessed the old one would last us out.
He “never heard no complaint from anybody ’t
ever rode in it.” That placed our last
journey on a homely, humorous basis, and we smiled,
and reflected that we preferred going up the hill
borne by friendly hands, with the light of heaven
falling on our coffin-lids.
The antiquary would set much store
by our headstones, did he ever find them out.
Certain of them are very ancient, according to our
ideas; for they came over from England, and are now
fallen into the grayness of age. They are woven
all over with lichens, and the blackberry binds them
fast. Well, too, for them! They need the
grace of some such veiling; for most of them are alive,
even to this day, with warning skulls, and awful cherubs
compounded of bleak, bald faces and sparsely feathered
wings. One discovery, made there on a summer day,
has not, I fancy, been duplicated in another New England
town. On six of the larger tombstones are carved,
below the grass level, a row of tiny imps, grinning
faces and humanized animals. Whose was the hand
that wrought? The Tivertonians know nothing about
it. They say there was a certain old Veasey who,
some eighty odd years ago, used to steal into the graveyard
with his tools, and there, for love, scrape the mosses
from the stones and chip the letters clear. He
liked to draw, “creatur’s” especially,
and would trace them for children on their slates.
He lived alone in a little house long since fallen,
and he would eat no meat. That is all they know
of him. I can guess but one thing more: that
when no looker-on was by, he pushed away the grass,
and wrote his little jokes, safe in the kindly tolerance
of the dead. This was the identical soul who
should, in good old days, have been carving gargoyles
and misérérés; here his only field was the obscurity
of Tiverton churchyard, his only monument these grotesqueries
so cunningly concealed.
We have epitaphs, too, - all
our own as yet, for the world has not discovered them.
One couple lies in well-to-do respectability under
a tiny monument not much taller than the conventional
gravestone, but shaped on a pretentious model.
“We’d ruther have it nice,”
said the builders, “even if there ain’t
much of it.”
These were Eliza Marden and Peleg
her husband, who worked from sun to sun, with scant
reward save that of pride in their own forehandedness.
I can imagine them as they drove to church in the
open wagon, a couple portentously large and prosperous:
their one child, Hannah, sitting between them, and
glancing about her, in a flickering, intermittent way,
at the pleasant holiday world. Hannah was no worker;
she liked a long afternoon in the sun, her thin little
hands busied about nothing weightier than crochet;
and her mother regarded her with a horrified patience,
as one who might some time be trusted to sow all her
wild oats of idleness. The well-mated pair died
within the same year, and it was Hannah who composed
their epitaph, with an artistic accuracy, but a defective
sense of rhyme: -
“Here lies Eliza She was a striver
Here lies Peleg He was a select Man”
We townsfolk found something haunting
and bewildering in the lines; they drew, and yet they
baffled us, with their suggested echoes luring only
to betray. Hannah never wrote anything else, but
we always cherished the belief that she could do “’most
anything” with words and their possibilities.
Still, we accepted her one crowning achievement, and
never urged her to further proof. In Tiverton
we never look genius in the mouth. Nor did Hannah
herself propose developing her gift. Relieved
from the spur of those two unquiet spirits who had
begotten her, she settled down to sit all day in the
sun, learning new patterns of crochet; and having
cheerfully let her farm run down, she died at last
in a placid poverty.
Then there was Desire Baker, who belonged
to the era of colonial hardship, and who, through
a redundant punctuation, is relegated to a day still
more remote. For some stone-cutter, scornful of
working by the card, or born with an inordinate taste
for periods, set forth, below her obiit, the
astounding statement: -
“The first woman. She made
the journey to Boston. By stage.”
Here, too, are the ironies whereof
departed life is prodigal. This is the tidy lot
of Peter Merrick, who had a desire to stand well with
the world, in leaving it, and whose purple and fine
linen were embodied in the pomp of death. He
was a cobbler, and he put his small savings together
to erect a modest monument to his own memory.
Every Sunday he visited it, “after meetin’,”
and perhaps his day-dreams, as he sat leather-aproned
on his bench, were still of that white marble idealism.
The inscription upon it was full of significant blanks;
they seemed an interrogation of the destiny which
governs man.
“Here lies Peter Merrick - - ”
ran the unfinished scroll, “and his wife who
died - - ”
But ambitious Peter never lay there
at all; for in his later prime, with one flash of
sharp desire to see the world, he went on a voyage
to the Banks, and was drowned. And his wife?
The story grows somewhat threadbare. She summoned
his step-brother to settle the estate, and he, a marble-cutter
by trade, filled in the date of Peter’s death
with letters English and illegible. In the process
of their carving, the widow stood by, hands folded
under her apron from the midsummer sun. The two
got excellent well acquainted, and the stone-cutter
prolonged his stay. He came again in a little
over a year, at Thanksgiving time, and they were married.
Which shows that nothing is certain in life, - no,
not the proprieties of our leaving it, - and
that even there we must walk softly, writing no boastful
legend for time to annul.
At one period a certain quatrain had
a great run in Tiverton; it was the epitaph of the
day. Noting how it overspread that stony soil,
you picture to yourself the modest pride of its composer;
unless indeed, it had been copied from an older inscription
in an English yard, and transplanted through the heart
and brain of some settler whose thoughts were ever
flitting back. Thus it runs in decorous metre: -
“Dear husband, now my life is
passed, You have dearly loved me to the last.
Grieve not for me, but pity take On my dear children
for my sake.”
But one sorrowing widower amended
it, according to his wife’s direction, so that
it bore a new and significant meaning. He was
charged to
“pity take On my dear parent for my sake.”
The lesson was patent. His mother-in-law
had always lived with him, and she was “difficult.”
Who knows how keenly the sick woman’s mind ran
on the possibilities of reef and quicksand for the
alien two left alone without her guiding hand?
So she set the warning of her love and fear to be
no more forgotten while she herself should be remembered.
The husband was a silent man.
He said very little about his intentions; performance
was enough for him. Therefore it happened that
his “parent,” adopted perforce, knew nothing
about this public charge until she came upon it, on
her first Sunday visit, surveying the new glory of
the stone. The story goes that she stood before
it, a square, portentous figure in black alpaca and
warlike mitts, and that she uttered these irrevocable
words: -
“Pity on me! Well,
I guess he won’t! I’ll go to the poor-farm
fust!”
And Monday morning, spite of his loyal
dissuasions, she packed her “blue chist,”
and drove off to a far-away cousin, who got her “nussin’”
to do. Another lesson from the warning finger
of Death: let what was life not dream that it
can sway the life that is, after the two part company.
Not always were mothers-in-law such
breakers of the peace. There is a story in Tiverton
of one man who went remorsefully mad after his wife’s
death, and whose mind dwelt unceasingly on the things
he had denied her. These were not many, yet the
sum seemed to him colossal. It piled the Ossa
of his grief. Especially did he writhe under the
remembrance of certain blue dishes she had desired
the week before her sudden death; and one night, driven
by an insane impulse to expiate his blindness, he
walked to town, bought them, and placed them in a foolish
order about her grave. It was a puerile, crazy
deed, but no one smiled, not even the little children
who heard of it next day, on the way home from school,
and went trudging up there to see. To their stirring
minds it seemed a strange departure from the comfortable
order of things, chiefly because their elders stood
about with furtive glances at one another and murmurs
of “Poor creatur’!” But one man,
wiser than the rest, “harnessed up,” and
went to tell the dead woman’s mother, a mile
away. Jonas was “shackled;” he might
“do himself a mischief.” In the late
afternoon, the guest so summoned walked quietly into
the silent house, where Jonas sat by the window, beating
one hand incessantly upon the sill, and staring at
the air. His sister, also, had come; she was frightened,
however, and had betaken herself to the bedroom, to
sob. But in walked this little plump, soft-footed
woman, with her banded hair, her benevolent spectacles,
and her atmosphere of calm.
“I guess I’ll blaze a
fire, Jonas,” said she. “You step
out an’ git me a mite o’ kindlin’.”
The air of homely living enwrapped
him once again, and mechanically, with the inertia
of old habit, he obeyed. They had a “cup
o’ tea” together; and then, when the dishes
were washed, and the peaceful twilight began to settle
down upon them like a sifting mist, she drew a little
rocking chair to the window where he sat opposite,
and spoke.
“Jonas,” said she, in
that still voice which had been harmonized by the
experiences of life, “arter dark, you jest go
up an’ bring home them blue dishes. Mary’s
got an awful lot o’ fun in her, an’ if
she ain’t laughin’ over that, I’m
beat. Now, Jonas, you do it! Do you s’pose
she wants them nice blue pieces out there through
wind an’ weather? She’d ruther by
half see ’em on the parlor cluzzet shelves; an’
if you’ll fetch ’em home, I’ll scallop
some white paper, jest as she liked, an’ we’ll
set ’em up there.”
Jonas wakened a little from his mental
swoon. Life seemed warmer, more tangible, again.
“Law, do go,” said the
mother soothingly. “She don’t want
the whole township tramplin’ up there to eye
over her chiny. Make her as nervous as a witch.
Here’s the ha’-bushel basket, an’
some paper to put between ‘em. You go,
Jonas, an’ I’ll clear off the shelves.”
So Jonas, whether he was tired of
guiding the impulses of his own unquiet mind, or whether
he had become a child again, glad to yield to the
maternal, as we all do in our grief, took the basket
and went. He stood by, still like a child, while
this comfortable woman put the china on the shelves,
speaking warmly, as she worked, of the pretty curving
of the cups, and her belief that the pitcher was “one
you could pour out of.” She stayed on at
the house, and Jonas, through his sickness of the
mind, lay back upon her soothing will as a baby lies
in its mother’s arms. But the china was
never used, even when he had come to his normal estate,
and bought and sold as before. The mother’s
prescience was too keen for that.
Here in this ground are the ambiguities
of life carried over into that other state, its pathos
and its small misunderstandings. This was a much-married
man whose last spouse had been a triple widow.
Even to him the situation proved mathematically complex,
and the sumptuous stone to her memory bears the dizzying
legend that “Enoch Nudd who erects this stone
is her fourth husband and his fifth wife.”
Perhaps it was the exigencies of space which brought
about this amazing elision; but surely, in its very
apparent intention, there is only a modest pride.
For indubitably the much-married may plume themselves
upon being also the widely sought. If it is the
crown of sex to be desired, here you have it, under
seal of the civil bond. No baseless, windy boasting
that “I might an if I would!” Nay, here
be the marriage ties to testify.
In this pleasant, weedy corner is
a little white stone, not so long erected. “I
shall arise in thine image,” runs the inscription;
and reading it, you shall remember that the dust within
belonged to a little hunchback, who played the fiddle
divinely, and had beseeching eyes. With that
cry he escaped from the marred conditions of the clay.
Here, too (for this is a sort of bachelor nook), is
the grave of a man whom we unconsciously thrust into
a permanent masquerade. Years and years ago he
broke into a house, - an unknown felony in
our quiet limits, - and was incontinently
shot. The burglar lost his arm, and went about
at first under a cloud of disgrace and horror, which
became, with healing of the public conscience, a veil
of sympathy. After his brief imprisonment indoors,
during the healing of the mutilated stump, he came
forth among us again, a man sadder and wiser in that
he had learned how slow and sure may be the road to
wealth. He had sown his wild oats in one night’s
foolish work, and now he settled down to doing such
odd jobs as he might with one hand. We got accustomed
to his loss. Those of us who were children when
it happened never really discovered that it was disgrace
at all; we called it misfortune, and no one said us
nay. Then one day it occurred to us that he must
have been shot “in the war,” and so, all
unwittingly to himself, the silent man became a hero.
We accepted him. He was part of our poetic time,
and when he died, we held him still in remembrance
among those who fell worthily. When Decoration
Day was first observed in Tiverton, one of us thought
of him, and dropped some apple blossoms on his grave;
and so it had its posy like the rest, although it
bore no flag. It was the doctor who set us right
there. “I wouldn’t do that,”
he said, withholding the hand of one unthinking child;
and she took back her flag. But she left the
blossoms, and, being fond of precedent, we still do
the same; unless we stop to think, we know not why.
You may say there is here some perfidy to the republic
and the honored dead, or at least some laxity of morals.
We are lax, indeed, but possibly that is why we are
so kind. We are not willing to “hurt folks’
feelings” even when they have migrated to another
star; and a flower more or less from the overplus
given to men who made the greater choice will do no
harm, tossed to one whose soul may be sitting, like
Lazarus, at their riches’ gate.
But of all these fleeting legends
made to hold the soul a moment on its way, and keep
it here in fickle permanence, one is more dramatic
than all, more charged with power and pathos.
Years ago there came into Tiverton an unknown man,
very handsome, showing the marks of high breeding,
and yet in his bearing strangely solitary and remote.
He wore a cloak, and had a foreign look. He came
walking into the town one night, with dust upon his
shoes, and we judged that he had been traveling a
long time. He had the appearance of one who was
not nearly at his journey’s end, and would pass
through the village, continuing on a longer way.
He glanced at no one, but we all stared at him.
He seemed, though we had not the words to put it so,
an exiled prince. He went straight through Tiverton
Street until he came to the parsonage; and something
about it (perhaps its garden, hot with flowers, larkspur,
coreopsis, and the rest) detained his eye, and he walked
in. Next day the old doctor was there also with
his little black case, but we were none the wiser
for that; for the old doctor was of the sort who intrench
themselves in a professional reserve. You might
draw up beside the road to question him, but you could
as well deter the course of nature. He would
give the roan a flick, and his sulky would flash by.
“What’s the matter with
so-and-so?” would ask a mousing neighbor.
“He’s sick,” ran the laconic reply.
“Goin’ to die?” one daring querist
ventured further.
“Some time,” said the doctor.
But though he assumed a right to combat
thus the outer world, no one was gentler with a sick
man or with those about him in their grief. To
the latter he would speak; but he used to say he drew
his line at second cousins.
Into his hands and the true old parson’s
fell the stranger’s confidence, if confidence
it were. He may have died solitary and unexplained;
but no matter what he said, his story was safe.
In a week he was carried out for burial; and so solemn
was the parson’s manner as he spoke a brief
service over him, so thrilling his enunciation of the
words “our brother,” that we dared not
even ask what else he should be called. And we
never knew. The headstone, set up by the parson,
bore the words “Peccator Maximus.”
For a long time we thought they made the stranger’s
name, and judged that he must have been a foreigner;
but a new schoolmistress taught us otherwise.
It was Latin, she said, and it meant “the chiefest
among sinners.” When that report flew round,
the parson got wind of it, and then, in the pulpit
one morning, he announced that he felt it necessary
to say that the words had been used “at our
brother’s request,” and that it was his
own decision to write below them, “For this
cause came I into the world.”
We have accepted the stranger as we
accept many things in Tiverton. Parson and doctor
kept his secret well. He is quite safe from our
questioning; but for years I expected a lady, always
young and full of grief, to seek out his grave and
shrive him with her tears. She will not appear
now, unless she come as an old, old woman, to lie beside
him. It is too late.
One more record of our vanished time, - this
full of poesy only, and the pathos of farewell.
It was not the aged and heartsick alone who lay down
here to rest. We have been no more fortunate than
others. Youth and beauty came also, and returned
no more. This, where the white rose-bush grows
untended, was the young daughter of a squire in far-off
days: too young to have known the pangs of love
or the sweet desire of Death, save that, in primrose
time, he always paints himself so fair. I have
thought the inscription must have been borrowed from
another grave, in some yard shaded by yews and silent
under the cawing of the rooks; perhaps, from its stiffness,
translated from a stately Latin verse. This it
is, snatched not too soon from oblivion; for a few
more years will wear it quite away: -
“Here lies the purple flower
of a maid Having to envious Death due tribute paid.
Her sudden Loss her Parents did lament, And all her
Friends with grief their hearts did Rent. Life’s
short. Your wicked Lives amend with care, For
Mortals know we Dust and Shadows are.”
“The purple flower of a maid!”
All the blossomy sweetness, the fragrant lamenting
of Lycidas, lies in that one line. Alas, poor
love-lies-bleeding! And yet not poor according
to the barren pity we accord the dead, but dowered
with another youth set like a crown upon the unstained
front of this. Not going with sparse blossoms
ripened or decayed, but heaped with buds and dripping
over in perfume. She seems so sweet in her still
loveliness, the empty promise of her balmy spring,
that for a moment fain are you to snatch her back into
the pageant of your day. Reading that phrase,
you feel the earth is poorer for her loss. And
yet not so, since the world holds other greater worlds
as well. Elsewhere she may have grown to age
and stature; but here she lives yet in beauteous permanence, - as
true a part of youth and joy and rapture as the immortal
figures on the Grecian Urn. While she was but
a flying phantom on the frieze of time, Death fixed
her there forever, - a haunting spirit in
perennial bliss.