It may be a disappointment to the
children each year at play upon so many beaches — even
if they are but dimly aware of their lack — to
find their annual plaything to be not a real annual;
an annual thing, indeed, to them, for the arbitrary
reason that they go down to it once a year, but not
annual in the vital and natural sense of the seasons,
not waxing and waning, not bearing, not turning that
circle of the seasons whereof no one knows which is
the highest point and the secret and the ultimate
purpose, not recreated, not new, and not yielding to
the child anything raw and irregular to eat.
Sand castles are well enough, and
they are the very commonplace of the recollections
of elders, of their rhetoric, and of what they think
appropriate for their young ones. Shingle and
sand are good playthings, but absolute play is not
necessarily the ideal of a child; he would rather
have a frolic of work. Of all the early autumn
things to be done in holiday time, that game with
the beach and the wave is the least good for holiday-time.
Not that the shore is everywhere so
barren. The coast of the Londoners — all
round the southern and eastern borders of England — is
indeed the dullest of all sea-margins. But away
in the gentle bays of Jersey the summer grows a crop
of seaweed which the long ocean wave leaves in noble
curves upon the beach; for under sunny water the storms
have gathered the crops. The Channel Island people
go gleaning after the sea, and store the seaweed for
their fields. Thus the beaches of Jersey bays
are not altogether barren, and have a kind of dead
and accessory harvest for the farmer. After
a night of storm these crops are stacked and carted
and carried, the sea-wind catching away loose shreds
from the summits of the loads.
Further south, if the growth of the
sea is not so put to use, the shore has yet its seasons.
You could hardly tell, if you did not know the month,
whether a space of sea or a series of waves, at Aldborough,
say, or at Dover, were summer or winter water; but
in those fortunate regions which are southern, yet
not too southern for winter, and have thus the strongest
swing of change and the fullest pulse of the year,
there are a winter sea and a summer sea, brilliantly
different, with a delicate variety between the hastening
blue of spring and the lingering blue of September.
There you bathe from the rocks, untroubled by tides,
and unhurried by chills, and with no incongruous sun
beating on your head while your fingers are cold.
You bathe when the sun has set, and the vast sea
has not a whisper; you know a rock in the distance
where you can rest; and where you float, there float
also by you opalescent jelly-fish, half transparent
in the perfectly transparent water. An hour in
the warm sea is not enough. Rock-bathing is
done on lonely shores. A city may be but a mile
away, and the cultivated vineyards may be close above
the seaside pine-trees, but the place is perfectly
remote. You pitch your tent on any little hollow
of beach. A charming Englishwoman who used to
bathe with her children under the great rocks of her
Mediterranean villa in the motionless white evenings
of summer put white roses in her hair, and liked to
sit out on a rock at sea where the first rays of the
moon would touch her.
You bathe in the Channel in the very
prose of the day. Nothing in the world is more
uninteresting than eleven o’clock. It is
the hour of mediocrity under the best conditions;
but eleven o’clock on a shingly beach, in a
half-hearted summer, is a very common thing.
Twelve has a dignity always, and everywhere its name
is great. The noon of every day that ever dawned
is in its place heroic; but eleven is worldly.
One o’clock has an honest human interest to
the hungry child, and every hour of the summer afternoon,
after three, has the grace of deepening and lingering
life. To bathe at eleven in the sun, in the wind,
to bathe from a machine, in a narrow sea that is certainly
not clear and is only by courtesy clean, to bathe
in obedience to a tyrannical tide and in water that
is always much colder than yourself, to bathe in a
hurry and in public — this is to know nothing
rightly of one of the greatest of all the pleasures
that humanity takes with nature.
By the way, the sea of Jersey has
more the character of a real sea than of mere straits.
These temperate islands would be better called the
Ocean Islands. When Edouard Pailleron was a boy
and wrote poetry, he composed a letter to Victor Hugo,
the address whereof was a matter of some thought.
The final decision was to direct it, “A Victor
Hugo, Ocean.” It reached him. It
even received a reply: “I am the Past, you
are the Future; I am, etc.” If an
English boy had had the same idea the name of the
Channel Islands would have spoilt it. “A
Victor Hugo, La Manche,” would hardly have interested
the postal authorities so much; but “the Channel”
would have had no respect at all. Indeed, this
last is suggestive of nothing but steamers and of
grey skies inland — formless grey skies,
undesigned, with their thin cloud torn to slender rags
by a perpetual wind.
As for the children, to whom belongs
the margin of the sea, machine-bathing at eleven o’clock
will hardly furnish them with a magical early memory.
Time was when this was made penitential to them, like
the rest of life, upon a principle that no longer
prevails. It was vulgarized for them and made
violent. A bathing woman, type of all ugliness
in their sensitive eyes, came striding, shapeless,
through the unfriendly sea, seized them if they were
very young, ducked them, and returned them to the
chilly machine, generally in the futile and superfluous
saltness of tears. “Too much of water had
they,” poor infants.
None the less is the barren shore
the children’s; and St. Augustine, Isaac Newton,
and Wordsworth had not a vision of sea-beaches without
a child there.