IN THE MARQUESAS
It was about three o’clock of
a winter’s afternoon in Tai-o-hae, the French
capital and port of entry of the Marquesas Islands.
The Trades blew strong and squally; the surf roared
loud on the shingle beach; and the fifty-ton schooner
of war, that carries the flag and influence of France
about the islands of the cannibal group, rolled at
her moorings under Prison Hill. The clouds hung
low and black on the surrounding amphitheatre of mountains;
rain had fallen earlier in the day, real tropic rain,
a waterspout for violence; and the green and gloomy
brow of the mountain was still seamed with many silver
threads of torrent.
In these hot and healthy islands winter
is but a name. The rain had not refreshed, nor
could the wind invigorate, the dwellers of Tai-o-hae:
away at one end, indeed, the commandant was directing
some changes in the residency garden beyond Prison
Hill; and the gardeners, being all convicts, had no
choice but to continue to obey. All other folks
slumbered and took their rest: Vaekehu, the native
Queen, in her trim house under the rustling palms;
the Tahitian commissary, in his beflagged official
residence; the merchants, in their deserted stores;
and even the club-servant in the club, his head fallen
forward on the bottle-counter, under the map of the
world and the cards of navy officers. In the
whole length of the single shoreside street, with its
scattered board houses looking to the sea, its grateful
shade of palms and green jungle of puraos, no moving
figure could be seen. Only, at the end of the
rickety pier, that once (in the prosperous days of
the American rebellion) was used to groan under the
cotton of John Hart, there might have been spied upon
a pile of lumber the famous tattooed white man, the
living curiosity of Tai-o-hae.
His eyes were open, staring down the
bay. He saw the mountains droop, as they approached
the entrance, and break down in cliffs: the surf
boil white round the two sentinel islets; and between,
on the narrow bight of blue horizon, Ua-pu upraise
the ghost of her pinnacled mountain-tops. But
his mind would take no account of these familiar features;
as he dodged in and out along the frontier line of
sleep and waking, memory would serve him with broken
fragments of the past: brown faces and white,
of skipper and shipmate, king and chief, would arise
before his mind and vanish; he would recall old voyages,
old landfalls in the hour of dawn; he would hear again
the drums beat for a man-eating festival; perhaps
he would summon up the form of that island princess
for the love of whom he had submitted his body to
the cruel hands of the tattooer, and now sat on the
lumber, at the pier-end of Tai-o-hae, so strange a
figure of a European. Or perhaps, from yet further
back, sounds and scents of England and his childhood
might assail him: the merry clamour of cathedral
bells, the broom upon the foreland, the song of the
river on the weir.
It is bold water at the mouth of the
bay; you can steer a ship about either sentinel, close
enough to toss a biscuit on the rocks. Thus it
chanced that, as the tattooed man sat dozing and dreaming,
he was startled into wakefulness and animation by
the appearance of a flying jib beyond the western
islet. Two more headsails followed; and before
the tattooed man had scrambled to his feet, a topsail
schooner of some hundred tons had luffed about the
sentinel, and was standing up the bay, close-hauled.
The sleeping city awakened by enchantment.
Natives appeared upon all sides, hailing each other
with the magic cry “Ehippy” ship;
the Queen stepped forth on her verandah, shading her
eyes under a hand that was a miracle of the fine art
of tattooing; the commandant broke from his domestic
convicts and ran into the residency for his glass;
the harbour-master, who was also the gaoler, came
speeding down the Prison Hill; the seventeen brown
Kanakas and the French boatswain’s mate, that
make up the complement of the war-schooner, crowded
on the forward deck; and the various English, Americans,
Germans, Poles, Corsicans and Scots the
merchants and the clerks of Tai-o-hae deserted
their places of business, and gathered, according
to invariable custom, on the road before the club.
So quickly did these dozen whites
collect, so short are the distances in Tai-o-hae,
that they were already exchanging guesses as to the
nationality and business of the strange vessel, before
she had gone about upon her second board towards the
anchorage. A moment after, English colours were
broken out at the main truck.
“I told you she was a Johnny
Bull knew it by her headsails,” said
an evergreen old salt, still qualified (if he could
anywhere have found an owner unacquainted with his
story) to adorn another quarter-deck and lose another
ship.
“She has American lines, anyway,”
said the astute Scots engineer of the gin-mill; “it’s
my belief she’s a yacht.”
“That’s it,” said
the old salt, “a yacht! look at her davits, and
the boat over the stern.”
“A yacht in your eye!”
said a Glasgow voice. “Look at her red ensign!
A yacht! not much she isn’t!”
“You can close the store, anyway,
Tom,” observed a gentlemanly German. “Bon
jour, mon Prince!” he added, as a dark, intelligent
native cantered by on a neat chestnut. “Vous
allez boire un verre de bière?”
But Prince Stanila Moanatini, the
only reasonably busy human creature on the island,
was riding hotspur to view this morning’s landslip
on the mountain road; the sun already visibly declined;
night was imminent; and if he would avoid the perils
of darkness and precipice, and the fear of the dead,
the haunters of the jungle, he must for once decline
a hospitable invitation. Even had he been minded
to alight, it presently appeared there would be difficulty
as to the refreshment offered.
“Beer!” cried the Glasgow
voice. “No such a thing; I tell you there’s
only eight bottles in the club! Here’s the
first time I’ve seen British colours in this
port! and the man that sails under them has got to
drink that beer.”
The proposal struck the public mind
as fair, though far from cheering; for some time back,
indeed, the very name of beer had been a sound of
sorrow in the club, and the evenings had passed in
dolorous computation.
“Here is Havens,” said
one, as if welcoming a fresh topic. “What
do you think of her, Havens?”
“I don’t think,”
replied Havens, a tall, bland, cool-looking, leisurely
Englishman, attired in spotless duck, and deliberately
dealing with a cigarette. “I may say I
know. She’s consigned to me from Auckland
by Donald and Edenborough. I am on my way aboard.”
“What ship is she?” asked the ancient
mariner.
“Haven’t an idea,” returned Havens.
“Some tramp they have chartered.”
With that he placidly resumed his
walk, and was soon seated in the stern-sheets of a
whaleboat manned by uproarious Kanakas, himself daintily
perched out of the way of the least maculation, giving
his commands in an unobtrusive, dinner-table tone
of voice, and sweeping neatly enough alongside the
schooner.
A weather-beaten captain received him at the gangway.
“You are consigned to us, I think,” said
he. “I am Mr. Havens.”
“That is right, sir,”
replied the captain, shaking hands. “You
will find the owner, Mr. Dodd, below. Mind the
fresh paint on the house.”
Havens stepped along the alley-way,
and descended the ladder into the main cabin.
“Mr. Dodd, I believe,”
said he, addressing a smallish, bearded gentleman,
who sat writing at the table. “Why,”
he cried, “it isn’t Loudon Dodd?”
“Myself, my dear fellow,”
replied Mr. Dodd, springing to his feet with companionable
alacrity. “I had a half-hope it might be
you, when I found your name on the papers. Well,
there’s no change in you; still the same placid,
fresh-looking Britisher.”
“I can’t return the compliment;
for you seem to have become a Britisher yourself,”
said Havens.
“I promise you, I am quite unchanged,”
returned Dodd. “The red tablecloth at the
top of the stick is not my flag; it’s my partner’s.
He is not dead, but sleepeth. There he is,”
he added, pointing to a bust which formed one of the
numerous unexpected ornaments of that unusual cabin.
Havens politely studied it. “A
fine bust,” said he; “and a very nice-looking
fellow.”
“Yes; he’s a good fellow,”
said Dodd. “He runs me now. It’s
all his money.”
“He doesn’t seem to be
particularly short of it,” added the other,
peering with growing wonder round the cabin.
“His money, my taste,”
said Dodd. “The black walnut bookshelves
are old English; the books all mine mostly
Renaissance French. You should see how the beach-combers
wilt away when they go round them, looking for a change
of seaside library novels. The mirrors are genuine
Venice; that’s a good piece in the corner.
The daubs are mine and his; the mudding
mine.”
“Mudding? What is that?” asked Havens.
“These bronzes,” replied Dodd. “I
began life as a sculptor.”
“Yes; I remember something about
that,” said the other. “I think, too,
you said you were interested in Californian real estate.”
“Surely I never went so far
as that,” said Dodd. “Interested?
I guess not. Involved, perhaps. I was born
an artist; I never took an interest in anything but
art. If I were to pile up this old schooner to-morrow,”
he added, “I declare I believe I would try the
thing again!”
“Insured?” inquired Havens.
“Yes,” responded Dodd.
“There’s some fool in ’Frisco who
insures us, and comes down like a wolf on the fold
on the profits; but we’ll get even with him
some day.”
“Well, I suppose it’s
all right about the cargo,” said Havens.
“O, I suppose so!” replied
Dodd. “Shall we go into the papers?”
“We’ll have all to-morrow,
you know,” said Havens; “and they’ll
be rather expecting you at the club. C’est
l’heure de l’absinthe. Of course,
Loudon, you’ll dine with me later on?”
Mr. Dodd signified his acquiescence;
drew on his white coat, not without a trifling difficulty,
for he was a man of middle age, and well-to-do; arranged
his beard and moustaches at one of the Venetian mirrors;
and, taking a broad felt hat, led the way through
the trade-room into the ship’s waist.
The stern, boat was waiting alongside a
boat of an elegant model, with cushions and polished
hardwood fittings.
“You steer,” observed
Loudon. “You know the best place to land.”
“I never like to steer another
man’s boat,” replied Havens.
“Call it my partner’s,
and cry quits,” returned Loudon, getting nonchalantly
down the side.
Havens followed and took the yoke
lines without further protest.
“I am sure I don’t know
how you make this pay,” he said. “To
begin with, she is too big for the trade, to my taste;
and then you carry so much style.”
“I don’t know that she
does pay,” returned Loudon. “I never
pretend to be a business man. My partner appears
happy; and the money is all his, as I told you I
only bring the want of business habits.”
“You rather like the berth, I suppose?”
suggested Havens.
“Yes,” said Loudon; “it seems odd,
but I rather do.”
While they were yet on board, the
sun had dipped; the sunset gun (a rifle) had cracked
from the war-schooner, and the colours had been handed
down. Dusk was deepening as they came ashore;
and the Cercle International(as the club is
officially and significantly named) began to shine,
from under its low verandahs, with the light of many
lamps. The good hours of the twenty-four drew
on; the hateful, poisonous day-fly of Nukahiva was
beginning to desist from its activity; the land-breeze
came in refreshing draughts; and the club-men gathered
together for the hour of absinthe. To the commandant
himself, to the man whom he was then contending with
at billiards a trader from the next island,
honorary member of the club, and once carpenter’s
mate on board a Yankee war-ship to the
doctor of the port, to the Brigadier of Gendarmerie,
to the opium-farmer, and to all the white men whom
the tide of commerce, or the chances of shipwreck
and desertion, had stranded on the beach of Tai-o-hae,
Mr. Loudon Dodd was formally presented; by all (since
he was a man of pleasing exterior, smooth ways, and
an unexceptionable flow of talk, whether in French
or English) he was excellently well received; and
presently, with one of the last eight bottles of beer
on a table at his elbow, found himself the rather silent
centrepiece of a voluble group on the verandah.
Talk in the South Seas is all upon
one pattern; it is a wide ocean, indeed, but a narrow
world: you shall never talk long and not hear
the name of Bully Hayes, a naval hero whose exploits
and deserved extinction left Europe cold; commerce
will be touched on, copra, shell, perhaps cotton or
fungus; but in a far-away, dilettante fashion, as by
men not deeply interested; through all, the names
of schooners and their captains will keep coming
and going, thick as may-flies; and news of the last
shipwreck will be placidly exchanged and debated.
To a stranger, this conversation will at first seem
scarcely brilliant but he will soon catch the tone;
and by the time he shall have moved a year or so in
the island world, and come across a good number of
the schooners, so that every captain’s
name calls up a figure in pyjamas or white duck, and
becomes used to a certain laxity of moral tone which
prevails (as in memory of Mr. Hayes) on smuggling,
ship-scuttling, barratry, piracy, the labour trade,
and other kindred fields of human activity, he will
find Polynesia no less amusing and no less instructive
than Pall Mall or Paris.
Mr. Loudon Dodd, though he was new
to the group of the Marquesas, was already an old,
salted trader; he knew the ships and the captains;
he had assisted, in other islands, at the first steps
of some career of which he now heard the culmination,
or (vice versâ) he had brought with him from
further south the end of some story which had begun
in Tai-o-hae. Among other matters of interest,
like other arrivals in the South Seas, he had a wreck
to announce. The John T. Richards, it
appeared, had met the fate of other island schooners.
“Dickinson piled her up on Palmerston
Island,” Dodd announced.
“Who were the owners?” inquired one of
the clubmen.
“O, the usual parties!” returned Loudon,
“Capsicum and Co.”
A smile and a glance of intelligence
went round the group; and perhaps Loudon gave voice
to the general sentiment by remarking
“Talk of good business!
I know nothing better than a schooner, a competent
captain, and a sound reliable reef.”
“Good business! There’s
no such a thing!” said the Glasgow man.
“Nobody makes anything but the missionaries dash
it!”
“I don’t know,”
said another; “there’s a good deal in opium.”
“It’s a good job to strike
a tabooed pearl-island say, about the fourth
year,” remarked a third, “skim the whole
lagoon on the sly, and up stick and away before the
French get wind of you.”
“A pig nokket of cold is good,” observed
a German.
“There’s something in
wrecks, too,” said Havens. “Look at
that man in Honolulu, and the ship that went ashore
on Waikiki Reef; it was blowing a kona, hard; and
she began to break up as soon as she touched.
Lloyd’s agent had her sold inside an hour; and
before dark, when she went to pieces in earnest, the
man that bought her had feathered his nest. Three
more hours of daylight, and he might have retired from
business. As it was, he built a house on Beretania
Street, and called it after the ship.”
“Yes, there’s something
in wrecks sometimes,” said the Glasgow voice;
“but not often.”
“As a general rule, there’s
deuced little in anything,” said Havens.
“Well, I believe that’s
a Christian fact,” cried the other. “What
I want is a secret, get hold of a rich man by the
right place, and make him squeal.”
“I suppose you know it’s
not thought to be the ticket,” returned Havens.
“I don’t care for that;
it’s good enough for me,” cried the man
from Glasgow, stoutly. “The only devil
of it is, a fellow can never find a secret in a place
like the South Seas: only in London and Paris.”
“M’Gibbon’s been
reading some dime novel, I suppose,” said one
club-man.
“He’s been reading ‘Aurora Floyd,’”
remarked another.
“And what if I have?”
cried M’Gibbon. “It’s all true.
Look at the newspapers! It’s just your
confounded ignorance that sets you snickering.
I tell you, it’s as much a trade as underwriting,
and a dashed sight more honest.”
The sudden acrimony of these remarks
called Loudon (who was a man of peace) from his reserve.
“It’s rather singular,” said he,
“but I seem to have practised about all these
means of livelihood.”
“Tit you effer find a nokket?”
inquired the inarticulate German, eagerly.
“No. I have been most kinds
of fool in my time,” returned Loudon, “but
not the gold-digging variety. Every man has a
sane spot somewhere.”
“Well, then,” suggested
some one, “did you ever smuggle opium?”
“Yes, I did,” said Loudon.
“Was there money in that?”
“All the way,” responded Loudon.
“And perhaps you bought a wreck?” asked
another.
“Yes, sir,” said Loudon.
“How did that pan out?” pursued the questioner.
“Well, mine was a peculiar kind
of wreck,” replied Loudon. “I don’t
know, on the whole, that I can recommend that branch
of industry.”
“Did she break up?” asked some one.
“I guess it was rather I that
broke down,” says Loudon. “Head not
big enough.”
“Ever try the blackmail?” inquired Havens.
“Simple as you see me sitting here!” responded
Dodd.
“Good business?”
“Well, I’m not a lucky
man, you see,” returned the stranger. “It
ought to have been good.”
“You had a secret?” asked the Glasgow
man.
“As big as the State of Texas.”
“And the other man was rich?”
“He wasn’t exactly Jay
Gould, but I guess he could buy these islands if he
wanted.”
“Why, what was wrong, then? Couldn’t
you get hands on him?”
“It took time, but I had him cornered at last;
and then ”
“What then?”
“The speculation turned bottom up. I became
the man’s bosom friend.”
“The deuce you did!”
“He couldn’t have been
particular, you mean?” asked Dodd pleasantly.
“Well, no; he’s a man of rather large sympathies.”
“If you’re done talking
nonsense, Loudon,” said Havens, “let’s
be getting to my place for dinner.”
Outside, the night was full of the
roaring of the surf. Scattered lights glowed
in the green thicket. Native women came by twos
and threes out of the darkness, smiled and ogled the
two whites, perhaps wooed them with a strain of laughter,
and went by again, bequeathing to the air a heady
perfume of palm-oil and frangipani blossom. From
the club to Mr. Havens’s residence was but a
step or two, and to any dweller in Europe they must
have seemed steps in fairyland. If such an one
could but have followed our two friends into the wide-verandahed
house, sat down with them in the cool trellised room,
where the wine shone on the lamp-lighted tablecloth;
tasted of their exotic food the raw fish,
the bread-fruit, the cooked bananas, the roast pig
served with the inimitable miti, and that king of
delicacies, palm-tree salad; seen and heard by fits
and starts, now peering round the corner of the door,
now railing within against invisible assistants, a
certain comely young native lady in a sacque, who
seemed too modest to be a member of the family, and
too imperious to be less; and then if such an one were
whisked again through space to Upper Tooting, or wherever
else he honoured the domestic gods, “I have
had a dream,” I think he would say, as he sat
up, rubbing his eyes, in the familiar chimney-corner
chair, “I have had a dream of a place, and I
declare I believe it must be heaven.” But
to Dodd and his entertainer, all this amenity of the
tropic night, and all these dainties of the island
table, were grown things of custom; and they fell
to meat like men who were hungry, and drifted into
idle talk like men who were a trifle bored.
The scene in the club was referred to.
“I never heard you talk so much nonsense, Loudon,”
said the host.
“Well, it seemed to me there
was sulphur in the air, so I talked for talking,”
returned the other. “But it was none of
it nonsense.”
“Do you mean to say it was true?”
cried Havens “that about the opium
and the wreck, and the black-mailing, and the man who
became your friend?”
“Every last word of it,” said Loudon.
“You seem to have been seeing life,” returned
the other.
“Yes, it’s a queer yarn,”
said his friend; “if you think you would like,
I’ll tell it you.”
Here follows the yarn of Loudon Dodd,
not as he told it to his friend, but as he subsequently
wrote it.