THE RIVIERA AGAINMARSEILLES AND HYÃERESINTRODUCTION
OCTOBER 1882 AUGUST 1884
In the two years and odd months since
his return from California, Stevenson had made no
solid gain of health. His winters, and especially
his second winter, at Davos had seemed to do him much
temporary good; but during the summers in Scotland
he had lost as much as he had gained, or more.
Loving the Mediterranean shores of France from of old,
he now made up his mind to try them once again.
As the ways and restrictions of a
settled invalid were repugnant to Stevenson’s
character and instincts, so were the life and society
of a regular invalid station depressing and uncongenial
to him. He determined, accordingly, to avoid
settling in one of these, and hoped to find a suitable
climate and habitation that should be near, though
not in, some centre of the active and ordinary life
of man, with accessible markets, libraries, and other
resources. In September 1882 he started with
his cousin Mr. R. A. M. Stevenson in search of a new
home, and thought first of trying the Languedoc coast,
a region new to him. At Montpellier, he was laid
up again with a bad bout of his lung troubles; and,
the doctor not recommending him to stay, returned to
Marseilles. Here he was rejoined by his wife,
and after a few days’ exploration in the neighbourhood
they lighted on what seemed exactly the domicile they
wanted. This was a roomy and attractive enough
house and garden called the Campagne Defli, near the
manufacturing suburb of St. Marcel, in a sheltered
position in full view of the shapely coastward hills.
By the third week in October they were installed,
and in eager hopes of pleasant days to come and a
return to working health. These hopes were not
realised. Week after week went on, and the hemorrhages
and fits of fever and exhaustion did not diminish.
Work, except occasional verses, and a part of the
story called The Treasure of Franchard, would
not flow, and the time had to be whiled away with
games of patience and other resources of the sick
man. Nearly two months were thus passed; during
the whole of one of them Stevenson had not been able
to go beyond the garden; and by Christmas he had to
face the fact that the air of the place was tainted.
An epidemic of fever, due to some defect of drainage,
broke out, and it became clear that this could be no
home for Stevenson. Accordingly, at his wife’s
instance, though having scarce the strength to travel,
he left suddenly for Nice, she staying behind to pack
their chattels and wind up their affairs and responsibilities
as well as might be. Various misadventures, miscarriages
of telegrams, journeys taken at cross purposes and
the like, making existence uncomfortably dramatic at
the moment, caused the couple to believe for a while
that they had fairly lost each other. Mrs. Stevenson
allows me to print a letter from herself to Mr. J.
A. Symonds vividly relating these predicaments (see
foll.). At last, in the course of January,
they came safely together at Marseilles, and next
made a few weeks’ stay at Nice, where Stevenson’s
health quickly mended. Thence they returned as
far as Hyères. Staying here through the greater
part of February, at the Hôtel des Ãles
d’Or, and finding the place to their liking,
they cast about once more for a resting-place, and
were this time successful.
The house chosen by the Stevensons
at Hyères was not near the sea, but inland, on the
road above the old town and beneath the ruins of the
castle. The Chalet La Solitude it was called;
a cramped but habitable cottage built in the Swiss
manner, with a pleasant strip of garden, and a view
and situation hardly to be bettered. Here he and
his family lived for the next sixteen months (March
1883 to July 1884). To the first part of this
period he often afterwards referred as the happiest
time of his life. His malady remained quiescent
enough to afford, at least to his own buoyant spirit,
a strong hope of ultimate recovery. He delighted
in his surroundings, and realised for the first time
the joys of a true home of his own. The last
shadow of a cloud between himself and his parents
had long passed away; and towards his father, now in
declining health, and often suffering from moods of
constitutional depression, the son begins on his part
to assume, how touchingly and tenderly will be seen
from the following letters, a quasi-paternal attitude
of encouragement and monition. At the same time
his work on the completion of the Silverado Squatters,
on Prince Otto, the Child’s Garden
of Verses (for which his own name was Penny
Whistles), on the Black Arrow (designated
hereinafter, on account of its Old English dialect,
as “tushery"), and other undertakings prospered
well. In the autumn the publication of Treasure
Island in book form brought with it the first
breath of popular applause. The reader will see
how modest a price Stevenson was content, nay, delighted,
to receive for this classic. It was two or three
years yet before he could earn enough to support himself
and his family by literature: a thing he had always
been earnestly bent on doing, regarding it as the
only justification for his chosen way of life.
In the meantime, it must be understood, whatever help
he needed from his father was from the hour of his
marriage always amply and ungrudgingly given.
In September of the same year, 1883,
Stevenson had felt deeply the death of his old friend
James Walter Ferrier (see the essay Old Mortality
and the references in the following letters).
But still his health held out fairly, until, in January
1884, on a visit to Nice, he was unexpectedly prostrated
anew by an acute congestion of the internal organs,
which for the time being brought him to death’s
door. Returning to his home, his recovery had
been only partial when, after four months (May 1884),
a recurrence of violent hemorrhages from the lung once
more prostrated him completely; soon after which he
quitted Hyères, and the epidemic of cholera which
broke out there the same summer prevented all thoughts
of his return.
The Hyères time, both during the
happy and hard-working months of March-December 1883,
and the semi-convalescence of February-May 1884, was
a prolific one in the way of correspondence; and there
is perhaps no period of his life when his letters
reflect so fully the variety of his moods and the
eagerness of his occupations.