A journey to the interior of Africa
would be a rural jaunt, were it not so often endangered
by the perils of war. The African may fairly
be characterized as a shepherd, whose pastoral life
is varied by a little agriculture, and the conflicts
into which he is seduced, either by family quarrels,
or the natural passions of his blood. His country,
though uncivilized, is not so absolutely wild as is
generally supposed. The gradual extension of
Mahometanism throughout the interior is slowly but
evidently modifying the Negro. An African Mussulman
is still a warrior, for the dissemination of
faith as well as for the gratification of avarice;
yet the Prophet’s laws are so much more genial
than the precepts of paganism, that, within the last
half century, the humanizing influence of the Koran
is acknowledged by all who are acquainted with the
interior tribes.
But in all the changes that may come
over the spirit of man in Africa, her magnificent
external nature will for ever remain the game.
A little labor teems with vast returns. The climate
exacts nothing but shade from the sun and shelter
from the storm. Its oppressive heat forbids a
toilsome industry, and almost enforces indolence as
a law. With every want supplied, without the allurements
of social rivalry, without the temptations of national
ambition or personal pride, what has the African to
do in his forest of palm and cocoa, his
grove of orange, pomegranate and fig, on
his mat of comfortable repose, where the fruit stoops
to his lips without a struggle for the prize, save
to brood over, or gratify, the electric passions with
which his soul seems charged to bursting!
It is an interesting task to travel
through a continent filled with such people, whose
minds are just beginning, here and there, to emerge
from the vilest heathenism, and to glimmer with a faith
that bears wrapped in its unfolded leaves, the seeds
of a modified civilization.
As I travelled in the “dry season,”
I did not encounter many of the discomforts that beset
the African wayfarer in periods of rain and tempest.
I was not obliged to flounder through lagoons, or swim
against the current of perilous rivers. We met
their traces almost every day; and, in many places,
the soil was worn into parched ravines or the tracks
of dried-up torrents. Whatever affliction I experienced
arose from the wasting depression of heat. We
did not suffer from lack of water or food, for the
caravan of the ALI-MAMI commanded implicit obedience
throughout our journey.
In the six hundred miles I traversed,
whilst absent from the coast, my memory, after twenty-six
years, leads me, from beginning to end, through an
almost continuous forest-path. We struck a trail
when we started, and we left it when we came home.
It was rare, indeed, to encounter a cross road, except
when it led to neighboring villages, water, or cultivated
fields. So dense was the forest foliage, that
we often walked for hours in shade without a glimpse
of the sun. The emerald light that penetrated
the wood, bathed every thing it touched with mellow
refreshment. But we were repaid for this partial
bliss by intense suffering when we came forth from
the sanctuary into the bare valleys, the arid barrancas,
and marshy savannas of an open region.
There, the red eye of the African sun glared with merciless
fervor. Every thing reflected its rays. They
struck us like lances from above, from below, from
the sides, from the rocks, from the fields, from the
stunted herbage, from the bushes. All was glare!
Our eyes seemed to simmer in their sockets. Whenever
the path followed the channel of a brook, whose dried
torrents left bare the scorched and broken rocks,
our feet fled from the ravine as from heated iron.
Frequently we entered extensive prairies, covered
with blades of sword-grass, tall as our heads, whose
jagged edges tore us like saws, though we protected
our faces with masks of wattled willows. And yet,
after all these discomforts, how often are my dreams
haunted by charming pictures of natural scenery that
have fastened themselves for ever in my memory!
As the traveller along the coast turns
the prow of his canoe through the surf, and crosses
the angry bar that guards the mouth of an African
river, he suddenly finds himself moving calmly onward
between sedgy shores, buried in mangroves.
Presently, the scene expands in the unruffled mirror
of a deep, majestic stream. Its lofty banks are
covered by innumerable varieties of the tallest forest
trees, from whoso summits a trailing network of vines
and flowers floats down and sweeps the passing current.
A stranger who beholds this scenery for the first
time is struck by the immense size, the prolific abundance,
and gorgeous verdure of every thing. Leaves, large
enough for garments, lie piled and motionless in the
lazy air: The bamboo and cane shake their slender
spears and pennant leaves as the stream ripples among
their roots. Beneath the massive trunks of forest
trees, the country opens; and, in vistas through the
wood, the traveller sees innumerable fields lying
fallow in grass, or waving with harvests of rice and
cassava, broken by golden clusters of Indian
corn. Anon, groups of oranges, lemons, coffee-trees,
plantains and bananas, are crossed by the tall
stems of cocoas, and arched by the broad and drooping
coronals of royal palm. Beyond this, capping
the summit of a hill, may be seen the conical huts
of natives, bordered by fresh pastures dotted with
flocks of sheep and goats, or covered by numbers of
the sleekest cattle. As you leave the coast, and
shoot round the river-curves of this fragrant wilderness
teeming with flowers, vocal with birds, and gay with
their radiant plumage, you plunge into the interior,
where the rising country slowly expands into hills
and mountains.
The forest is varied. Sometimes
it is a matted pile of tree vine, and bramble, obscuring
every thing, and impervious save with knife and hatchet.
At others, it is a Gothic temple. The sward spreads
openly for miles on every side, while, from its even
surface, the trunks of straight and massive trees
rise to a prodigious height, clear from every obstruction,
till their gigantic limbs, like the capitals of columns,
mingle their foliage in a roof of perpetual verdure.
At length the hills are reached, and
the lowland heat is tempered by mountain freshness.
The scene that may be beheld from almost any elevation,
is always beautiful, and sometimes grand. Forest,
of course, prevails; yet, with a glass, and often
by the unaided eye, gentle hills, swelling from the
wooded landscape, may be seen covered with native
huts, whose neighborhood is checkered with patches
of sward and cultivation, and inclosed by massive
belts of primeval wildness. Such is commonly
the westward view; but north and east, as far as vision
extends, noble outlines of hill and mountain may be
traced against the sky, lapping each other with their
mighty folds, until they fade away in the azure horizon.
When a view like this is beheld at
morning, in the neighborhood of rivers, a dense mist
will be observed lying beneath the spectator in a
solid stratum, refracting the light now breaking from
the east. Here and there, in this lake of vapor,
the tops of hills peer up like green islands in a
golden sea. But, ere you have time to let fancy
run riot, the “cloud compelling” orb lifts
its disc over the mountains, and the fogs of the valley,
like ghosts at cock-crow, flit from the dells they
have haunted since nightfall. Presently, the sun
is out in his terrible splendor. Africa unveils
to her master, and the blue sky and green forest blaze
and quiver with his beams.