Outside of my window, two narrow perpendicular mirrors, parallel with the casement, project into the street, yet with a certain unobtrusiveness of angle that enables them to reflect the people who pass, without any reciprocal disclosure of their own.  The men and women hurrying by not only do not know they are observed, but, what is worse, do not even see their own reflection in this hypocritical plane, and are consequently unable, through its aid, to correct any carelessness of garb, gait, or demeanor.  At first this seems to be taking an unfair advantage of the human animal, who invariably assumes an attitude when he is conscious of being under human focus.  But I observe that my neighbors’ windows, right and left, have a similar apparatus, that this custom is evidently a local one, and the locality is German.  Being an American stranger, I am quite willing to leave the morality of the transaction with the locality, and adapt myself to the custom:  indeed, I had thought of offering it, figuratively, as an excuse for any unfairness of observation I might make in these pages.  But my German mirrors reflect without prejudice, selection, or comment; and the American eye, I fear, is but mortal, and like all mortal eyes, figuratively as well as in that literal fact noted by an eminent scientific authority, infinitely inferior to the work of the best German opticians.

And this leads me to my first observation, namely, that a majority of those who pass my mirror have weak eyes, and have already invoked the aid of the optician.  Why are these people, physically in all else so much stronger than my countrymen, deficient in eyesight?  Or, to omit the passing testimony of my Spion, and take my own personal experience, why does my young friend Max, brightest of all schoolboys, who already wears the cap that denotes the highest class, ­why does he shock me by suddenly drawing forth a pair of spectacles, that upon his fresh, rosy face would be an obvious mocking imitation of the Herr Papa ­if German children could ever, by any possibility, be irreverent?  Or why does the Fräulein Marie, his sister, pink as Aurora, round as Hebe, suddenly veil her blue eyes with a golden lorgnette in the midst of our polyglot conversation?  Is it to evade the direct, admiring glance of the impulsive American?  Dare I say no?  Dare I say that that frank, clear, honest, earnest return of the eye, which has on the Continent most unfairly brought my fair countrywomen under criticism, is quite as common to her more carefully-guarded, tradition-hedged German sisters?  No, it is not that.  Is it any thing in these emerald and opal tinted skies, which seem so unreal to the American eye, and for the first time explain what seemed the unreality of German art? in these mysterious yet restful Rhine fogs, which prolong the twilight, and hang the curtain of romance even over mid-day?  Surely not.  Is it not rather, O Herr Professor profound in analogy and philosophy! ­is it not rather this abominable black-letter, this elsewhere-discarded, uncouth, slowly-decaying text known as the German Alphabet, that plucks out the bright eyes of youth, and bristles the gateways of your language with a chevaux de frise of splintered rubbish?  Why must I hesitate whether it is an accident of the printer’s press, or the poor quality of the paper, that makes this letter a “k” or a “t”?  Why must I halt in an emotion or a thought because “s” and “f” are so nearly alike?  Is it not enough that I, an impulsive American, accustomed to do a thing first, and reflect upon it afterwards, must grope my way through a blind alley of substantives and adjectives, only to find the verb of action in an obscure corner, without ruining my eyesight in the groping?

But I dismiss these abstract reflections for a fresh and active resentment.  This is the fifth or sixth dog that has passed my Spion, harnessed to a small barrow-like cart, and tugging painfully at a burden so ludicrously disproportionate to his size, that it would seem a burlesque, but for the poor dog’s sad sincerity.  Perhaps it is because I have the barbarian’s fondness for dogs, and for their lawless, gentle, loving uselessness, that I rebel against this unnatural servitude.  It seems as monstrous as if a child were put between the shafts, and made to carry burdens; and I have come to regard those men and women, who in the weakest perfunctory way affect to aid the poor brute by laying idle hands on the barrow behind, as I would unnatural parents.  Pegasus harnessed to the Thracian herdsman’s plough was no more of a desecration.  I fancy the poor dog seems to feel the monstrosity of the performance, and, in sheer shame for his master, forgivingly tries to assume it is play; and I have seen a little “colley” running along, barking, and endeavoring to leap and gambol in the shafts, before a load that any one out of this locality would have thought the direst cruelty.  Nor do the older or more powerful dogs seem to become accustomed to it.  When his cruel taskmaster halts with his wares, instantly the dog, either by sitting down in his harness, or crawling over the shafts, or by some unmistakable dog-like trick, utterly scatters any such delusion of even the habit of servitude.  The few of his race who do not work in this ducal city seem to have lost their democratic canine sympathies, and look upon him with something of that indifferent calm with which yonder officer eyes the road-mender in the ditch below him.  He loses even the characteristics of species.  The common cur and mastiff look alike in harness.  The burden levels all distinctions.  I have said that he was generally sincere in his efforts.  I recall but one instance to the contrary.  I remember a young colley who first attracted my attention by his persistent barking.  Whether he did this, as the plough-boy whistled, “for want of thought,” or whether it was a running protest against his occupation, I could not determine, until one day I noticed, that, in barking, he slightly threw up his neck and shoulders, and that the two-wheeled barrow-like vehicle behind him, having its weight evenly poised on the wheels by the trucks in the hands of its driver, enabled him by this movement to cunningly throw the center of gravity and the greater weight on the man, ­a fact which that less sagacious brute never discerned.  Perhaps I am using a strong expression regarding his driver.  It may be that the purely animal wants of the dog, in the way of food, care, and shelter, are more bountifully supplied in servitude than in freedom; becoming a valuable and useful property, he may be cared for and protected as such (an odd recollection that this argument had been used forcibly in regard to human slavery in my own country strikes me here); but his picturesqueness and poetry are gone, and I cannot help thinking that the people who have lost this gentle, sympathetic, characteristic figure from their domestic life and surroundings have not acquired an equal gain through his harsh labors.

To the American eye there is, throughout the length and breadth of this foreign city, no more notable and striking object than the average German house-servant.  It is not that she has passed my Spion a dozen times within the last hour, ­for here she is messenger, porter, and commissionnaire, as well as housemaid and cook, ­but that she is always a phenomenon to the American stranger, accustomed to be abused in his own country by his foreign Irish handmaiden.  Her presence is as refreshing and grateful as the morning light, and as inevitable and regular.  When I add that with the novelty of being well served is combined the satisfaction of knowing that you have in your household an intelligent being who reads and writes with fluency, and yet does not abstract your books, nor criticise your literary composition; who is cleanly clad, and neat in her person, without the suspicion of having borrowed her mistress’s dresses; who may be good-looking without the least imputation of coquetry or addition to her followers; who is obedient without servility, polite without flattery, willing and replete with supererogatory performance, without the expectation of immediate pecuniary return, what wonder that the American householder translated into German life feels himself in a new Eden of domestic possibilities unrealized in any other country, and begins to believe in a present and future of domestic happiness!  What wonder that the American bachelor living in German lodgings feels half the terrors of the conjugal future removed, and rushes madly into love ­and housekeeping!  What wonder that I, a long-suffering and patient master, who have been served by the reticent but too imitative Chinaman; who have been “Massa” to the childlike but untruthful negro; who have been the recipient of the brotherly but uncertain ministrations of the South-Sea Islander, and have been proudly disregarded by the American aborigine, only in due time to meet the fate of my countrymen at the hands of Bridget the Celt, ­what wonder that I gladly seize this opportunity to sing the praises of my German handmaid!  Honor to thee, Lenchen, wherever thou goest!  Heaven bless thee in thy walks abroad! whether with that tightly-booted cavalryman in thy Sunday gown and best, or in blue polka-dotted apron and bare head as thou trottest nimbly on mine errands, ­errands which Bridget o’Flaherty would scorn to undertake, or, undertaking, would hopelessly blunder in.  Heaven bless thee, child, in thy early risings and in thy later sittings, at thy festive board overflowing with Essig and Fett, in the mysteries of thy Kuchen, in the fulness of thy Bier, and in thy nightly suffocations beneath mountainous and multitudinous feathers!  Good, honest, simple-minded, cheerful, duty-loving Lenchen!  Have not thy brothers, strong and dutiful as thou, lent their gravity and earnestness to sweeten and strengthen the fierce youth of the Republic beyond the seas? and shall not thy children inherit the broad prairies that still wait for them, and discover the fatness thereof, and send a portion transmuted in glittering shekels back to thee?

Almost as notable are the children whose round faces have as frequently been reflected in my Spion.  Whether it is only a fancy of mine that the average German retains longer than any other race his childish simplicity and unconsciousness, or whether it is because I am more accustomed to the extreme self-assertion and early maturity of American children, I know not; but I am inclined to believe that among no other people is childhood as perennial, and to be studied in such characteristic and quaint and simple phases as here.  The picturesqueness of Spanish and Italian childhood has a faint suspicion of the pantomime and the conscious attitudinizing of the Latin races.  German children are not exuberant or volatile:  they are serious, ­a seriousness, however, not to be confounded with the grave reflectiveness of age, but only the abstract wonderment of childhood; for all those who have made a loving study of the young human animal will, I think, admit that its dominant expression is gravity, and not playfulness, and will be satisfied that he erred pitifully who first ascribed “light-heartedness” and “thoughtlessness” as part of its phenomena.  These little creatures I meet upon the street, ­whether in quaint wooden shoes and short woollen petticoats, or neatly booted and furred, with school knapsacks jauntily borne upon little square shoulders, ­all carry likewise in their round chubby faces their profound wonderment and astonishment at the big busy world into which they have so lately strayed.  If I stop to speak with this little maid who scarcely reaches to the top-boots of yonder cavalry officer, there is less of bashful self-consciousness in her sweet little face than of grave wonder at the foreign accent and strange ways of this new figure obtruded upon her limited horizon.  She answers honestly, frankly, prettily, but gravely.  There is a remote possibility that I might bite; and, with this suspicion plainly indicated in her round blue eyes, she quietly slips her little red hand from mine, and moves solemnly away.  I remember once to have stopped in the street with a fair countrywoman of mine to interrogate a little figure in sabots, ­the one quaint object in the long, formal perspective of narrow, gray bastard-Italian facaded houses of a Rhenish German Straße.  The sweet little figure wore a dark-blue woollen petticoat that came to its knees; gray woollen stockings covered the shapely little limbs below; and its very blonde hair, the color of a bright dandelion, was tied in a pathetic little knot at the back of its round head, and garnished with an absurd green ribbon.  Now, although this gentlewoman’s sympathies were catholic and universal, unfortunately their expression was limited to her own mother-tongue.  She could not help pouring out upon the child the maternal love that was in her own womanly breast, nor could she withhold the “baby-talk” through which it was expressed.  But, alas! it was in English.  Hence ensued a colloquy, tender and extravagant on the part of the elder, grave and wondering on the part of the child.  But the lady had a natural feminine desire for reciprocity, particularly in the presence of our emotion-scorning sex, and as a last resource she emptied the small silver of her purse into the lap of the coy maiden.  It was a declaration of love, susceptible of translation at the nearest cake-shop.  But the little maid, whose dress and manner certainly did not betray an habitual disregard of gifts of this kind, looked at the coin thoughtfully, but not regretfully.  Some innate sense of duty, equally strong with that of being polite to strangers, filled her consciousness.  With the utterly unexpected remark that her father ’did not allow her to take money’, the queer little figure moved away, leaving the two Americans covered with mortification.  The rare American child who could have done this would have done it with an attitude.  This little German bourgeoise did it naturally.  I do not intend to rush to the deduction that German children of the lower classes habitually refuse pecuniary gratuities:  indeed, I remember to have wickedly suggested to my companion, that, to avoid impoverishment in a foreign land, she should not repeat the story nor the experiment.  But I simply offer it as a fact, and to an American, at home or abroad, a novel one.

I owe to these little figures another experience quite as strange.  It was at the close of a dull winter’s day, ­a day from which all out-of-door festivity seemed to be naturally excluded:  there was a baleful promise of snow in the air and a dismal reminiscence of it under foot, when suddenly, in striking contrast with the dreadful bleakness of the street, a half dozen children, masked and bedizened with cheap ribbons, spangles, and embroidery, flashed across my Spion.  I was quick to understand the phenomenon.  It was the Carnival season.  Only the night before I had been to the great opening masquerade, ­a famous affair, for which this art-loving city is noted, and to which strangers are drawn from all parts of the Continent.  I remember to have wondered if the pleasure-loving German in America had not broken some of his conventional shackles in emigration; for certainly I had found the Carnival balls of the “Lieder Kranz Society” in New York, although decorous and fashionable to the American taste, to be wild dissipations compared with the practical seriousness of this native performance, and I hailed the presence of these children in the open street as a promise of some extravagance, real, untrammelled, and characteristic.  I seized my hat and ­overcoat, ­a dreadful incongruity to the spangles that had whisked by, and followed the vanishing figures round the corner.  Here they were re-enforced by a dozen men and women, fantastically, but not expensively arrayed, looking not unlike the supernumeraries of some provincial opera troupe.  Following the crowd, which already began to pour in from the side-streets, in a few moments I was in the broad, grove-like allée, and in the midst of the masqueraders.

I remember to have been told that this was a characteristic annual celebration of the lower classes, anticipated with eagerness, and achieved with difficulty, indeed, often only through the alternative of pawning clothing and furniture to provide the means for this ephemeral transformation.  I remember being warned, also, that the buffoonery was coarse, and some of the slang hardly fit for “ears polite.”  But I am afraid that I was not shocked at the prodigality of these poor people, who purchased a holiday on such hard conditions; and, as to the coarseness of the performance, I felt that I certainly might go where these children could.

At first the masquerading figures appeared to be mainly composed of young girls of ages varying from nine to eighteen.  Their costumes ­if what was often only the addition of a broad, bright-colored stripe to the hem of a short dress could be called a costume ­were plain, and seemed to indicate no particular historical epoch or character.  A general suggestion of the peasant’s holiday attire was dominant in all the costumes.  Everybody was closely masked.  All carried a short, gayly-striped baton of split wood, called a Pritsche, which, when struck sharply on the back or shoulders of some spectator or sister-masker, emitted a clattering, rasping sound.  To wander hand in hand down this broad allée, to strike almost mechanically, and often monotonously, at each other with their batons, seemed to be the extent of that wild dissipation.  The crowd thickened.  Young men with false noses, hideous masks, cheap black or red cotton dominoes, soldiers in uniform, crowded past each other, up and down the promenade, all carrying a Pritsche, and exchanging blows with each other, but always with the same slow seriousness of demeanor, which, with their silence, gave the performance the effect of a religious rite.  Occasionally some one shouted:  perhaps a dozen young fellows broke out in song; but the shout was provocative of nothing, the song faltered as if the singers were frightened at their own voices.  One blithe fellow, with a bear’s head on his fur-capped shoulders, began to dance; but, on the crowd stopping to observe him seriously, he apparently thought better of it, and slipped away.  Nevertheless, the solemn beating of Pritschen over each other’s backs went on.  I remember that I was followed the whole length of the allée by a little girl scarcely twelve years old, in a bright striped skirt and black mask, who from time to time struck me over the shoulders with a regularity and sad persistency that was peculiarly irresistible to me; the more so, as I could not help thinking that it was not half as amusing to herself.  Once only did the ordinary brusque gallantry of the Carnival spirit show itself.  A man with an enormous pair of horns, like a half-civilized satyr, suddenly seized a young girl and endeavored to kiss her.  A slight struggle ensued, in which I fancied I detected in the girl’s face and manner the confusion and embarrassment of one who was obliged to overlook, or seem to accept, a familiarity that was distasteful, rather than be laughed at for prudishness or ignorance.  But the incident was exceptional.  Indeed, it was particularly notable to my American eyes to find such decorum where there might easily have been the greatest license.  I am afraid that an American mob of this class would have scarcely been as orderly and civil under the circumstances.  They might have shown more humor; but there would have probably been more effrontery:  they might have been more exuberant; they would certainly have been drunker.  I did not notice a single masquerader unduly excited by liquor:  there was not a word or motion from the lighter sex that could have been construed into an impropriety.  There was something almost pathetic to me in this attempt to wrest gayety and excitement out of these dull materials; to fight against the blackness of that wintry sky, and the stubborn hardness of the frozen soil, with these painted sticks of wood; to mock the dreariness of their poverty with these flaunting raiments.  It did not seem like them, or rather, consistent with my idea of them.  There was incongruity deeper than their bizarre externals; a half-melancholy, half-crazy absurdity in their action, the substitution of a grim spasmodic frenzy for levity, that rightly or wrongly impressed me.  When the increasing gloom of the evening made their figures undistinguishable, I turned into the first cross-street.  As I lifted my hat to my persistent young friend with the Pritsche, I fancied she looked as relieved as myself.  If, however, I was mistaken; if that child’s pathway through life be strewn with rosy recollections of the unresisting back of the stranger American; if any burden, O Gretchen! laid upon thy young shoulders, be lighter for the trifling one thou didst lay upon mine, ­know, then, that I, too, am content.

And so, day by day, has my Spion reflected the various changing forms of life before it.  It has seen the first flush of spring in the broad allée, when the shadows of tiny leaflets overhead were beginning to checker the cool, square flagstones.  It has seen the glare and fulness of summer sunshine and shadow, the flying of November gold through the air, the gaunt limbs, and stark, rigid, death-like whiteness of winter.  It has seen children in their queer, wicker baby-carriages, old men and women, and occasionally that grim usher of death, in sable cloak and cocked hat, ­a baleful figure for the wandering invalid tourist to meet, ­who acts as undertaker for this ducal city, and marshals the last melancholy procession.  I well remember my first meeting with this ominous functionary.  It was an early autumnal morning; so early, that the long formal perspective of the allée, and the decorous, smooth vanishing-lines of cream-and-gray fronted houses, were unrelieved by a single human figure.  Suddenly a tall black spectre, as theatrical and as unreal as the painted scenic distance, turned the corner from a cross-street, and moved slowly towards me.  A long black cloak, falling from its shoulders to its feet, floated out on either side like sable wings; a cocked hat trimmed with crape, and surmounted by a hearse-like feather, covered a passionless face; and its eyes, looking neither left nor right, were fixed fatefully upon some distant goal.  Stranger as I was to this Continental ceremonial figure, there was no mistaking his functions as the grim messenger, knocking “with equal foot” on every door; and, indeed, so perfectly did he act and look his rôle, that there was nothing ludicrous in the extraordinary spectacle.  Facial expression and dignity of bearing were perfect; the whole man seemed saturated with the accepted sentiment of his office.  Recalling the half-confused and half-conscious ostentatious hypocrisy of the American sexton, the shameless absurdities of the English mutes and mourners, I could not help feeling, that, if it were demanded that Grief and Fate should be personified, it were better that it should be well done.  And it is one observation of my Spion, that this sincerity and belief is the characteristic of all Continental functionaries.

It is possible that my Spion has shown me little that is really characteristic of the people, and the few observations I have made I offer only as an illustration of the impressions made upon two-thirds of American strangers in the larger towns of Germany.  Assimilation goes on more rapidly than we are led to imagine.  As I have seen my friend Karl, fresh and awkward in his first uniform, lounging later down the allée with the blase listlessness of a full-blown militaire, so I have seen American and English residents gradually lose their peculiarities, and melt and merge into the general mass.  Returning to my Spion after a flying trip through Belgium and France, as I look down the long perspective of the Straße, I am conscious of recalling the same style of architecture and humanity at Aachen, Brussels, Lille, and Paris, and am inclined to believe that, even as I would have met, in a journey of the same distance through a parallel of the same latitude in America, a greater diversity of type and character, and a more distinct flavor of locality, even so would I have met a more heterogeneous and picturesque display from a club window on Fifth Avenue, New York, or Montgomery Street, San Francisco.