The time occupied in walking to and from my business I have always found to yield me a certain mental enjoyment which no other part of the twenty-four hours could give.  Perhaps the physical exercise may have acted as a gentle stimulant of the brain, but more probably the comfortable consciousness that I could not reasonably be expected to be doing anything else ­to be studying or improving my mind, for instance ­always gave a joyous liberty to my fancy.  I once thought it necessary to employ this interval in doing sums in arithmetic, ­in which useful study I was and still am lamentably deficient, ­but after one or two attempts at peripatetic computation, I gave it up.  I am satisfied that much enjoyment is lost to the world by this nervous anxiety to improve our leisure moments, which, like the “shining hours” of Dr. Watts, unfortunately offer the greatest facilities for idle pleasure.  I feel a profound pity for those misguided beings who are still impelled to carry text-books with them in cars, omnibuses, and ferry-boats, and who generally manage to defraud themselves of those intervals of rest they most require.  Nature must have her fallow moments, when she covers her exhausted fields with flowers instead of grain.  Deny her this, and the next crop suffers for it.  I offer this axiom as some apology for obtruding upon the reader a few of the speculations which have engaged my mind during these daily perambulations.

Few Californians know how to lounge gracefully.  Business habits, and a deference to the custom, even with those who have no business, give an air of restless anxiety to every pedestrian.  The exceptions to this rule are apt to go to the other extreme, and wear a defiant, obtrusive kind of indolence which suggests quite as much inward disquiet and unrest.  The shiftless lassitude of a gambler can never be mistaken for the lounge of a gentleman.  Even the brokers who loiter upon Montgomery Street at high noon are not loungers.  Look at them closely and you will see a feverishness and anxiety under the mask of listlessness.  They do not lounge ­they lie in wait.  No surer sign, I imagine, of our peculiar civilization can be found than this lack of repose in its constituent elements.  You cannot keep Californians quiet even in their amusements.  They dodge in and out of the theatre, opera, and lecture-room; they prefer the street cars to walking because they think they get along faster.  The difference of locomotion between Broadway, New York, and Montgomery Street, San Francisco, is a comparative view of Eastern and Western civilization.

There is a habit peculiar to many walkers, which Punch, some years ago, touched upon satirically, but which seems to have survived the jester’s ridicule.  It is that custom of stopping friends in the street, to whom we have nothing whatever to communicate, but whom we embarrass for no other purpose than simply to show our friendship.  Jones meets his friend Smith, whom he has met in nearly the same locality but a few hours before.  During that interval, it is highly probable that no event of any importance to Smith, nor indeed to Jones, which by a friendly construction Jones could imagine Smith to be interested in, has occurred, or is likely to occur.  Yet both gentlemen stop and shake hands earnestly.  “Well, how goes it?” remarks Smith with a vague hope that something may have happened.  “So so,” replies the eloquent Jones, feeling intuitively the deep vacuity of his friend answering to his own.  A pause ensues, in which both gentlemen regard each other with an imbecile smile and a fervent pressure of the hand.  Smith draws a long breath and looks up the street; Jones sighs heavily and gazes down the street.  Another pause, in which both gentlemen disengage their respective hands and glance anxiously around for some conventional avenue of escape.  Finally, Smith (with a sudden assumption of having forgotten an important engagement) ejaculates, “Well, I must be off” ­a remark instantly echoed by the voluble Jones, and these gentlemen separate, only to repeat their miserable formula the next day.  In the above example I have compassionately shortened the usual leave-taking, which, in skilful hands, may be protracted to a length which I shudder to recall.  I have sometimes, when an active participant in these atrocious transactions, lingered in the hope of saying something natural to my friend (feeling that he, too, was groping in the mazy labyrinths of his mind for a like expression), until I have felt that we ought to have been separated by a policeman.  It is astonishing how far the most wretched joke will go in these emergencies, and how it will, as it were, convulsively detach the two cohering particles.  I have laughed (albeit hysterically) at some witticism under cover of which I escaped, that five minutes afterward I could not perceive possessed a grain of humor.  I would advise any person who may fall into this pitiable strait, that, next to getting in the way of a passing dray and being forcibly disconnected, a joke is the most efficacious.  A foreign phrase often may be tried with success; I have sometimes known Au revoir pronounced “O-reveer,” to have the effect (as it ought) of severing friends.

But this is a harmless habit compared to a certain reprehensible practice in which sundry feeble-minded young men indulge.  I have been stopped in the street and enthusiastically accosted by some fashionable young man, who has engaged me in animated conversation, until (quite accidentally) a certain young belle would pass, whom my friend, of course, saluted.  As, by a strange coincidence, this occurred several times in the course of the week, and as my young friend’s conversational powers invariably flagged after the lady had passed, I am forced to believe that the deceitful young wretch actually used me as a conventional background to display the graces of his figure to the passing fair.  When I detected the trick, of course I made a point of keeping my friend, by strategic movements, with his back toward the young lady, while I bowed to her myself.  Since then, I understand that it is a regular custom of these callow youths to encounter each other, with simulated cordiality, some paces in front of the young lady they wish to recognize, so that she cannot possibly cut them.  The corner of California and Montgomery streets is their favorite haunt.  They may be easily detected by their furtive expression of eye, which betrays them even in the height of their apparent enthusiasm.

Speaking of eyes, you can generally settle the average gentility and good breeding of the people you meet in the street by the manner in which they return or evade your glance.  “A gentleman,” as the Autocrat has wisely said, is always “calm-eyed.”  There is just enough abstraction in his look to denote his individual power and the capacity for self-contemplation, while he is, nevertheless, quietly and unobtrusively observant.  He does not seek, neither does he evade your observation.  Snobs and prigs do the first; bashful and mean people do the second.  There are some men who, on meeting your eye, immediately assume an expression quite different from the one which they previously wore, which, whether an improvement or not, suggests a disagreeable self-consciousness.  Perhaps they fancy they are betraying something.  There are others who return your look with unnecessary defiance, which suggests a like concealment.  The symptoms of the eye are generally borne out in the figure.  A man is very apt to betray his character by the manner in which he appropriates his part of the sidewalk.  The man who resolutely keeps the middle of the pavement, and deliberately brushes against you, you may be certain would take the last piece of pie at the hotel table, and empty the cream-jug on its way to your cup.  The man who sidles by you, keeping close to the houses, and selecting the easiest planks, manages to slip through life in some such way, and to evade its sternest duties.  The awkward man, who gets in your way, and throws you back upon the man behind you, and so manages to derange the harmonious procession of an entire block, is very apt to do the same thing in political and social economy.  The inquisitive man, who deliberately shortens his pace, so that he may participate in the confidence you impart to your companion, has an eye not unfamiliar to keyholes, and probably opens his wife’s letters.  The loud man, who talks with the intention of being overheard, is the same egotist elsewhere.  If there was any justice in Iago’s sneer, that there were some “so weak of soul that in their sleep they mutter their affairs,” what shall be said of the walking revery-babblers?  I have met men who were evidently rolling over, “like a sweet morsel under the tongue,” some speech they were about to make, and others who were framing curses.  I remember once that, while walking behind an apparently respectable old gentleman, he suddenly uttered the exclamation, “Well, I’m d ­d!” and then quietly resumed his usual manner.  Whether he had at that moment become impressed with a truly orthodox disbelief in his ultimate salvation, or whether he was simply indignant, I never could tell.

I have been hesitating for some time to speak ­or if indeed to speak at all ­of that lovely and critic-defying sex, whose bright eyes and voluble prattle have not been without effect in tempering the austerities of my peripatetic musing.  I have been humbly thankful that I have been permitted to view their bright dresses and those charming bonnets which seem to have brought the birds and flowers of spring within the dreary limits of the town, and ­I trust I shall not be deemed unkind in saying it ­my pleasure was not lessened by the reflection that the display, to me at least, was inexpensive.  I have walked in ­and I fear occasionally on ­the train of the loveliest of her sex who has preceded me.  If I have sometimes wondered why two young ladies always began to talk vivaciously on the approach of any good-looking fellow; if I have wondered whether the minor-like qualities of all large show-windows at all influenced their curiosity regarding silks and calicoes; if I have ever entertained the same ungentlemanly thought concerning daguerreotype show-cases; if I have ever misinterpreted the eye-shot which has passed between two pretty women ­more searching, exhaustive and sincere than any of our feeble ogles; if I have ever committed these or any other impertinences, it was only to retire beaten and discomfited, and to confess that masculine philosophy, while it soars beyond Sirius and the ring of Saturn, stops short at the steel periphery which encompasses the simplest school-girl.