The old Francesca, directed
by a nervous and none too competent Tagalog captain,
maneuvered in the six-mile tidal current which swept
west through the Straits making Zamboanga a nightmare
to all the native skippers who called at that port.
Crab-like, she crawled obliquely to within a few hundred
feet of the low-lying town, then the screw churned
up a furious wake as the anxious Tagalog on the bridge
swung her back into the Straits to circle in a new
attempt. Carried by the tidal rush the old tub
circled in a great ellipse.
Alone at the rail on the dingy promenade
Terry stood enjoying his first glimpse of Mindanao.
Seven months in Luzon had brought him countless tales
of this uncertain southland tales of pirates,
of insolent, murderous datos defiant behind their
cotta fortresses, of kris and barong wielded by fanatic
Moros gone amok; of pearls as large as robins’
eggs, of nuggets tossed as playthings by naked children
of the forests, of mysterious tribes who inhabited
the fastnesses of inaccessible hills.
He wore the service uniform of the
Constabulary, the field uniform of khaki blouse and
breeches, tan shoes and leggings, and stiff-brimmed
cavalry Stetson. The smart uniform set his erect
figure off trimly and added to the impression of alertness
conveyed by his steady gray eyes.
In the two wide swings back into midstream
that ensued before the steamer approached near enough
land to get ropes to the little brown stevedores who
waited on the dock, Terry had ample opportunity for
study of the tropic panorama. The sea was dotted
with Moro vintas, swiftest of all Malayan
sailing craft; tide and wind borne, some scurried
at tremendous pace toward the fishing grounds of the
Sulu Sea, others tacked painfully into the Celebes.
A Government launch, its starred and striped flag
brilliant against the green sea in the morning light,
left its jetty and headed south toward the dim coastline
of Basilan. A score of gulls, that had followed
the ship down from Sorsogon, fattening on the waste
thrown overboard after each meal, circled around the
ship aimlessly, uttering unpleasant cries. The
young sun mounted swiftly in a cloudless sky, hot on
the trail of the cool morning breezes, white in its
threat of blistering punishment of all who dared its
shafts.
The hawser snubbed, the drum of the
rusty winch rattled and banged on worn bearings to
a tune of escaping steam, laboriously warping the
smelly hull alongside the dock. Terry watched
the sturdy little Moros spring into agile life as
the vessel slowly neared the pier, then he turned
to look over the town which was built flush with the
edge of the narrow beach, extending each way from
the shore end of the pier. The galvanized-iron
roofs of the taller buildings church, convent,
club, a few more pretentious dwellings, were
visible above the low foliage and between the tall
acacias and firetrees which jagged the skyline.
A heavily laden breeze identified unmistakably several
long buildings as copra warehouses.
It seemed a busy town, as towns near
the equator go. In the street into which the
pier opened a thin stream of pedestrians passed by
in brief review before the watcher: Moros, a
few Filipinos, a Chino staggering under a heavy balanced
pinga, two white-clad Americans, while several
rickshaws, Moro drawn, jogged by with patrons concealed
under raised tops. Then a big foreign touring
car turned the corner and drew up in front of the
government building to deposit a middle aged American,
immaculate in fresh pongee.
Terry, observing him idly from where
he stood at the rail, saw a larger, uniformed American
swing the corner with vigorous stride and after saluting
the older man accompany him respectfully to the entrance
to the big building, where they stood a moment in
conversation. Terry’s interest quickened
as he recognized the big American as a member of his
own service; he watched him approach the ship through
the crowd of half-nude sweating Moros who now swarmed
the dock.
Terry, hastening down the ship’s
ladder, met the tall officer as he reached the end
of the pier.
He was a loosely knit, raw-boned man
of about thirty-five, of serious but pleasant mien.
As he stepped to meet Terry, Terry saw that he wore
the leaves of a Major.
“Lieutenant Terry?” he
asked, responding with friendly informality to Terry’s
stiff salute.
“Yes, sir.”
“I’m Bronner. Mighty
glad to know you. We’ve been looking for
you ever since receiving a copy of the Headquarters
Bulletin ordering you down here. Have a good
trip?”
“Well, Major, the Francesca
is no Empress liner but we got along all right.
I am very glad to know you, Major. Your brother
and I were roommates at college he used
to tell me of your experiences with the head hunters
“Huh!” the Major interrupted.
“Guess he stretched things some. Fine boy.
Wants to come over when he graduates this June, but
his mother says one son over here is enough.
And she’s right.”
Terry liked the big irregular features.
In the steady eyes he saw something that forced instant
credence to the stories told of the Major’s
resourceful bravery under difficult situations, a bravery
which had made the name of Bronner famous in a service
made up of intrepid men.
“Welcome to Moroland,”
the Major continued. “I hope you like it
down here I think you will. If I didn’t
I wouldn’t have requested your transfer.
You are assigned to the most interesting of the Moro
provinces, Davao. You go there to command
a Macabebe company. Your baggage still aboard?”
“Yes, sir.”
“Forget the ‘sir’!
Leave your stuff on board the Francesca
sails at daylight to-morrow, and you go on to Davao
with her. Had breakfast? I thought not.
Pack a bag with what you will need for a day ashore put
on a white uniform for to-night. My orderly will
take you to my quarters where you can get a shower
and some breakfast. Join me at the Service Club
for lunch.”
Throughout the abrupt discourse Terry
had endured the frank appraisal of the shrewd black
eyes. He experienced a pleasant reaction when
the Major again extended his broad hand.
“Lieutenant, I said a minute
ago that I was glad to know you. Let me repeat
it I mean it. Adios, till lunch time.”
He pushed his way good-naturedly through
the throng of Moros who were handling the bales and
boxes unloaded from the roach-ridden hull and walked
off the pier, disappearing into the government building.
Terry boarded the vessel, warmed by the friendliness
of his new chief, and by the time the orderly arrived
had thrown a few things into his bag and was ready
to go ashore.
He followed the soldier down the main
street, a dusty thoroughfare lined with the usual
assortment of structures which adorn Philippine provincial
towns: adobe, tile-roofed business houses honeycombed
with little box-like shops in which the Chinese merchants
displayed their wares: square wooden houses set
high on stone understructures: scores of bamboo
shacks stilted on crooked timbers, unkempt, wry, powdered
with the dust risen since the last rains.
Though it was not yet nine o’clock,
they sought the shaded side of the street with the
habit which becomes instinctive near the equator, and
welcomed the coolness of Bronner’s low house.
The cook and the houseboy looked after
him with the unobtrusive perfection of service found
only in the East. A good breakfast cheered a
stomach outraged by the greasy mess perpetrated upon
native boats in the name of Spanish cookery, and a
cool shower bath eliminated the stench of stale copra
which had clung to his nostrils if not to his clothing.
An hour before noon he left the house and strolled
about the scorching town, regardless of where he went
so long as he found shaded walks on which to tread.
Most Philippine towns are coast towns,
and most coast towns are flat and uninteresting unless
you are interested in their peoples and
you are not interested in them unless they are of
a different tribe than you have known previously.
Take a couple of dusty or
muddy streets, unroll them along some freshwater
stream just above a line of palmed beach: place
an immense, deserted-looking softstone church in an
unkept square flanked with a few straggled acacias
and a big convent in which a native priest lives in
weary and squalid detachment from a world he knows
nothing about: line the two streets with an assortment
of rusty bamboo and mixed-material houses which impress
one as never having been built but as always having
stood there: sprinkle a few naked, pot-bellied,
brown children staring at each other in pathetic,
Malay ignorance of the manner and spirit of play:
set a few brown manikins in the open windows women
who let life fly by in dull wonder of what it is all
about: add a few carabaos lying in neck-deep
content in mudwallows, and a score of emaciated curs
which snarl at each other in habitual, gnawing hunger
and which greet their masters with terrified whines:
spread over it all a pall of still moist heat and a
sky arched by a molten sun. Contrive all this,
then imbue every object human and creature,
animate and inanimate, with an air of hopelessness,
of the futility of effort, and you will have a typical
Malay town as the Americans found them.
But not so where the American has
set his impious foot impious of the dogma
that you can not change the East, nor hurry it.
He enjoyed the finesse of the phrase, quoted it, then
jumped in to hustle the East. The old timers, Spaniards
and Britishers for the greater part shrugged
at each other over their heavy tiffins and nine o’clock
dinners; these crazy Americans would soon learn!
But the crazy, enthusiastic Americans, engineers,
health officers, executives, school teachers, Constabulary,
labored on in the glory of service: eradicated
cholera, built roads and bridges, brought six hundred
thousand children into school that two score tribes
might find a common tongue, fought the devastating
cattle plagues, wiped out brigandage and piracy, brought
order and first semblance of prosperity to eight millions
of people.
Young men did it all. The old-timers
suddenly found that they were living in new times,
in clean, healthful towns: found that business
was increasing by leaps and bounds as the natives fell
in behind the young Americans with a quicker stride
than Orientals had ever known. And they
are the reasons those few thousands of smooth-faced
Americans who laughingly threw themselves at the wall
of immemorial sloth and apathy why Kipling’s
phrase is seldom quoted east of India, and now not
often there. And they are the reasons, those carefully
chosen, confident young men of whom too many are buried
over there, that we have so much of which to be proud
in what has been done in our name for a backward,
unfortunate people.
But we, you and I, do not know very much about it all:
it is so far away and we are so busy with our affairs, our politics, our
... You know ... we are just
too busy to bother about those Tagalogs and headhunters
who live over there where Dewey licked Cervera, and
Aguinaldo was king of the Igorotes or something, and
Pershing rose from a captain to a general: why,
I heard one of those Filipinos make a speech about
independence and he was so smart and bright he
had been sent to our congress or something and was
handsome and polished and....
Yes, he doubtless was. That is
why he was sent: but he bore about the same mental
relation to the race he is supposed to represent as
a Supreme Court Justice bears to a Georgia cracker!
Terry had thoroughly assimilated the
atmosphere of the Luzon provinces in his seven months
in the Islands, so he found a real pleasure in studying
a Moro town which had been under the energizing influence
of the Army for nearly two decades. He wandered
slowly through the native quarter, cutting down clean
cross streets lined with neat nipa huts inclosed behind
latticed bamboo fences, enjoying the novelty of a
community different from any he had known. Every
detail of the well kept streets testified to the strictness
of the standards set by the white men who governed
the town. The few Moros whom he encountered on
the noon-deserted streets passed him silently and with
averted eyes, wary, secretive, entirely alien.
One looked him square in the eye, leaving him uncomfortable
with the antipathy unveiled, the cold, everlasting
contempt of the Mohammedan for the unbeliever whom
he does not know.
He walked with lids half-closed against
the white glare and the heat waves which danced above
the tortured roads and roofs: by the hour set
for his luncheon engagement he had covered the town
thoroughly, including the beautiful post which had
been turned over to Scouts when the Army at last finished
its tedious Moro project.
He found the Major waiting him at
the Club, a large, single-story building set in a
grove of tall palms at the edge of the beach and cooled
by the breezes from the Straits. He followed him
out on the wide veranda built over the water’s
edge, passing through a friendly, incurious group
of young Americans who sat at little round tables in
groups of three and four. Major Bronner responded
to a dozen greetings as they crossed to a table set
for two at the edge of the veranda. In a moment
the deft tableboy had their service under way.
“Well,” began the Major,
“you will have a busy time of it during the
rest of your stay I wish it were to be longer.
This afternoon I want you to come to the office with
me there are lots of things to talk over
about your work down there. The Governor will
see you about five o’clock. How do you
like Zamboanga?”
“It’s clean, and interesting, Major.”
“‘Clean and interesting!’
That is a boost! Though we can’t take much
credit for the ’interesting’ the
Moros furnish that!”
The white-smocked servants moved noiselessly
about the cool veranda, serving the score of Americans
with that perfect impersonal care found nowhere except
among Oriental servitors: the subdued clatter
of silver against dish and the tinkle of iced drinks
was often drowned in outbursts of merriment from one
or other of the little tables. Most of the Americans
were mere youths, though two were evidently in their
forties. Bronner noted Terry’s study of
a group of three who sat nearby, heavily tanned men
evidently not quite at home in the club.
“Davao planters,” he explained.
“Hemp planters: you will know them.
Three good men: they’re going down on your
boat.”
Lunch finished, coffee and cigars
furnished excuse for the white-clad crowd to linger
on the darkened porch: scraps of shop talk reached
Terry’s ears, a jargon of strangely twisted English
and Spanish words. Bridges, appropriations, rinderpest,
lack of labor, artesian wells, cholera such
was their table talk, as such was their life.
The breeze freshened, gently stirring
the potted plants which flanked each row of tables;
the hot stillness of the noon gave way to the sibilant
murmur of the cocoanut palms whose bases were lapped
by the quickening ripples. The breaking of the
withering calm was the signal for departure to office
and field. The veranda cleared rapidly.
Bronner, watching the three planters, interrupted their
departure.
“Lindsey just a minute.”
He took Terry to their table and introduced him.
“Lieutenant Terry, gentlemen:
Mr. Lindsey, Mr. Cochran, Mr. Casey. Lieutenant
Terry goes to Davao to-morrow as Senior Inspector.
You will be able to help him, till he learns his way
down there and later he may be able to
help you.”
Terry shook hands with the three in
turn. All were out-doors men, bronzed, diffident
with the social shyness of men who live their lives
alone or among none but alien people. Lindsey
and Cochran were square-set, serious young men:
Casey, older, but of eager, enthusiastic mien.
The Major discussed them as he and Terry left the
club.
“They’re three of the
best planters in the Gulf. You’ll have no
trouble with them. But you may with some others,
those who have a fancied grievance against the government
just now. I had better start at the beginning.
“You know the best hemp in the
world grows down there soil, climate, rainfall
all combine wonderfully to make it the one ideal spot
for hemp production. In another twenty years
it will probably rate as the richest single agricultural
area on the globe that’s why those
little fellows over there” he indicated
a pair of Japanese passing on the opposite side of
the street “are piling into Davao
so fast these days.
“The world needs hemp and
areas where it can be cultivated are rare. Three
years ago a little stampede occurred into Davao; the
pioneers are a mixed lot about sixty Americans,
a few Britishers, a scattering of Moros and Filipinos
and nearly two hundred Japs. The Japs are quiet you
will seldom see them: they stay on their places
and ’saw wood’; they’re backed by
some syndicate probably their government.
But the others are lone handers, working on their own
‘shoe-strings’ or financed by the contributions
of optimistic shareholders in Manila.
“They are good men, these planters.
You will like them. They went into the fastnesses
of Mindanao, braved the wild tribes, cleared their
land, planted hemp, working largely with their own
hands and in a climate where they say the
white man shall labor only with his head. You
will hear all about their troubles and difficulties you
won’t hear much else down there but hemp hemp
and wild tribes! Hemp and wildmen that’s
Davao!
“About their grievance.
They cleared and planted rapidly and have raised fabulous
crops, but when it came time to strip the hemp for
market they found that the wildmen upon whom they had
banked as potential labor would not work. A few
came and stayed, but most of them quit after earning
a few pesos. So the hemp rotted in the field.
Desperate, facing ruin, some of the planters went after
labor too strongly, frightened and browbeat the Bogobos
into working. The scheme worked, so a condition
approximating peonage was developed upon several of
the plantations.
“We ordered it stopped.
Those planters are very sore, looking for trouble.
That’s the story and the condition
you must face, and overcome. You’ve got
to hold down that class of planter, but at the same
time encourage the Bogobos to work for them. It
means prosperity for the planters, and money and comfort
for the Bogobos and it will keep them out
of the hills: we want the Bogobos near the coast,
under civilizing influences. They are newly won
to us and apt to fade away into the foothills on the
least provocation.”
Crossing the acacia-shaded lawns of
the beautiful plaza he stopped in front of the artistic
concrete bandstand, jerking a big thumb at the dedication
inscribed upon the ivy-covered façade.
“Pershing Plaza,” he read
aloud. “He was the last military Governor,
you remember. I knew him: a good man.
No genius just a good man, hard worker:
has two traits that will carry him a long way if he
gets the chance common sense and industry.
Wants to know everything about everything, and never
quits working. Surrounds himself with workers:
gives his men their jobs and doesn’t bother them
while they do them just wants results.
“‘Make good or make way!’
Some slogan! Pershing, Wood, Scott, Carpenter, America
has sent some of her best into Mindanao. I’m
glad to be here aren’t you?”
At the sudden question Terry turned to him.
“Yes,” he said. “I hope to
be useful.”
They had reached the entrance to the
government building: the Major paused at the
foot of the mahogany staircase to conclude earnestly:
“It is fashionable just now in Manila to decry
this effort to institute civil government among the
Moros but I know you are not of the type
to be influenced. Governor Mason is making good:
you will see that after you have been here a month.
He is a wonder, Terry, probably the only
man who could handle this situation with a few Constabulary.
Study, patience, and square-dealing, backed by occasional
use of troops, prepared the Moros for this experiment,
and Governor Mason is carrying it forward almost alone opposing
the backward tendencies of Sululand with little else
save personality, inspiration and a wonderful knowledge
of Malay character.
“You’re going to like
it down here,” he wound up suddenly, confused
by his own unaccustomed oratory.
Mounting the polished stairway, they
passed down the tall concrete corridors and into the
Major’s office. He drew up a chair for Terry
and seated himself behind a desk whose orderly array
of accessories bespoke his methodical bachelor habits.
The walls were covered with large-scale maps of Moroland
showing location of various tribes, scattered settlements
and district boundaries, with great blank areas eloquent
of the unknown character of unexplored fastnesses.
The crosses which indicated the distribution of Constabulary
forces controlled from his office dotted every sizable
island: pins bearing the names of government
agents showed into what remote regions our trail-breakers
had penetrated. One purple-flagged pin showed
a veterinarian warring against a cattle plague in
Jolo: a blue flag thrust into one of the blank
spaces of Mindanao indicated the whereabouts of a
fearless ethnologist from the Field Museum: a
red sticker bore the name of an engineer who had been
out of touch for six weeks, running the line of a
new trail across the great bulk of Mindanao.
The map was symbolic of the Constabulary, whose duty
it is to know all, to protect all.
Leaving Terry to his study of the
maps the Major spent an unapologetic fifteen minutes
clearing the mass of papers that had accumulated during
the lunch hour, then turned to him. For an hour
he outlined the salient problems which would confront
the young officer in his new assignment. He was
all business, curt, concise, definite. He touched
upon the ordinary service activities of drill, patrol,
secret service, supply and report, then took up those
phases which required delicate and original handling.
“Now, Lieutenant, we did not
pull you down here to handle an ordinary job you
know it means something these days to get a Mindanao
assignment.”
Terry did know it. Only men who
had demonstrated unusual ability in their line had
been sent to Moroland under Governor Mason. As
the months went by the northern provinces were being
stripped of their crack men for assignment to the
southern experiment, so that detail there had become
a mark of distinction. He had been as surprised
as pleased at his summons from Sorsogon, a poor, colorless
province where he had spent seven months in uneventful,
and as he thought, inconspicuous service.
The Major detected something of what
was passing in his mind: “You were selected
because of your understanding of native character,
your sympathy with them: that, and your faculty
for learning dialects. By the way, what is your
method of studying these languages your
record of three dialects in half a year is remarkable.”
“There was little else to do and
I like to study them.”
The Major noted the slight flush of
embarrassment. He reached into a drawer and pulled
out a card, scanning it carefully before continuing:
“Your qualification card indicates
that you are an unusual pistol shot: it reads
’Pistol rating two-handed expert,
extraordinary in accuracy and rapidity.’”
Disregarding Terry’s increased
embarrassment he pushed the question: “How
did you acquire such skill?”
“Well, as I had to carry a sidearm,
I thought to make it useful it is not much
of an ornament. After I became really interested
it cost me about fifty dollars a month for ammunition.”
“Well, things happen down here!
Some day you may be glad you spent the money your
skill may come in handy!”
“On men?” It
was the one aspect of the service from which Terry
shrank.
“Well, I hope not. It seldom
comes to that. But a number of hard characters
have been concentrating recently in the Davao Gulf,
a batch of discharged convicts who served long terms
for brigandage and murder. We have been watching
them, but nothing significant transpired till last
month.”
The muscles of his heavy jaw tightened
as he went on: “You have heard of Malabanan,
haven’t you?”
“The ladrone leader?”
“Yes, he. He was released
from Bilibid prison last summer and came through here
last month. One of our operatives uncovered him
on the boat traveling as an ordinary steerage
passenger. He went to Davao, and I fear it means
trouble. I think he gathered that tough crew
together to operate in Davao, thinking to test us out
now that the Army is gone.”
His face was grim as he snapped:
“Terry, watch him! And if he makes a single
move smash him! Make no false starts,
do not arrest him unless you are sure that your evidence
will convict in the courts. Give him plenty of
rope but if he breaks loose ... smash him
hard! Understand?”
Terry nodded quietly, but something
in his competent face contented his chief. He
repeated his warning against premature action:
“Be sure you can get him before
you move he is slippery and has friends
in high native circles. We do not want to be turned
down in the courts at this stage of the game, and
it may be he intends to play the game square plant
hemp, for instance. But if he wants a showdown smash
him good and plenty!”
He briefly reviewed the substance
of his instructions: “You can see that
your work is going to call for a good deal of tact
and patience: patience with the angry planters,
with the wild people. Everybody is scared and
jumpy down there just now, and we want to restore their
confidence.”
Terry had listened attentively throughout
the interview, speaking only to answer questions.
He broke the silence which followed:
“Major, I have heard a great
deal about the Hill People of Davao: will I be
near them?”
The Major eyed him queerly for a moment
before answering: “About thirty miles as
the bird flies,” he said, “but about a
million to all intents and purposes! No living
man has been among them those who have
tried have left their bones rotting in the dark forest.
They kill all who attempt to reach them, expeditions
in force find nothing as the Hillmen simply fade away
before their approach.
“I don’t want you to attempt
to go among them in fact I expressly forbid
it, as it means certain death. But some day we
hope to open the Hills up, to win among them:
it is one of the Governor’s cherished ambitions.
So learn what you can about them from the old Bogobos
who live in the foothills, and report any interesting
traditions you may hear. Pieced together, the
tales may make a helpful contribution may
help solve the riddle of how to get to them peaceably.
Not that you or I are likely to live long enough to
see it done they are too confounded wild,
too inaccessible behind their jungled hills.”
He shrugged his broad shoulders in
eloquent dismissal of a vain hope, and rose:
“I want you to meet the Governor. I’ll
see if we can get to him yet.”
He strode out of the office, returning
immediately to inform Terry that the Governor was
closeted with the two Moro datos whom he
had fetched to the capitol by launch.
“They haven’t promised
to be good boys yet,” he chuckled, “but
they will before he finishes with them! His Secretary
says that he expects you and me to go down to San
Ramon with him to-night at seven sharp, to dine with
Wade, the prison superintendent. You’re
in luck, Lieutenant. It will be an evening you
won’t soon forget.”
So it proved to be.