AN AUSTRALIAN SEARCH PARTY I.
BY
CHARLES H. EDEN
In a former narrative, published
in the preceding volume of the illustrated travels,
I gave an account of a terrible cyclone which visited
the north-eastern coast of Queensland in the autumn
of 1866, nearly destroying the small settlements of
Cardwell and Townsville, and doing an infinity of
damage by uprooting heavy timber, blocking up the
bush roads, etc. Amongst other calamities
attendant on this visitation was the loss of a small
coasting schooner, named the ‘Eva’, bound
from Cleveland to Rockingham Bay, with cargo and passengers.
Only those who have visited Australia can picture
to themselves the full horror of a captivity amongst
the degraded blacks with whom this unexplored district
abounds; and a report of white men having been seen
amongst the wild tribes in the neighbourhood of the
Herbert River induced the inhabitants of Cardwell
to institute a search party to rescue the crew of
the unhappy schooner, should they still be alive; or
to gain some certain clue to their fate, should they
have perished.
In my former narrative I described
our exploration of the Herbert River, lying at the
south end of Rockingham Channel, with its fruitless
issue; and I now take up the thread of my story from
that point, thinking it can hardly fail to be of interest
to the reader, not only as regards the wild nature
of the country traversed, but also as showing the
anxiety manifested by the inhabitants of these remote
districts to clear up the fate of their unhappy brethren.
I may also here mention, for the information of such
of my readers as may not have read the preceding portions
of the narrative, that Cardwell is the name of a small
township situated on the shores of Rockingham Bay;
and that Townsville is a settlement some hundred miles
further south, known also as Cleveland Bay.
HOW WE EXPLORED GOULD AND GARDEN ISLANDS.
We were all much pleased at a piece
of intelligence brought up by the ‘Daylight’,
to the effect that a party of volunteers had been assembled
at Cleveland Bay, and intended coming up in a small
steamer to the south end of Hinchinbrook, to assist
in the search for the missing crew. As it would
be of the utmost importance that both parties should
co-operate, I sent my boat down to the mouth of the
channel, with a note to the leader of the expedition
announcing our intention of landing on the north end
of the island and working towards the centre; and
requesting them to scour their end, and then push northward,
when we should most probably meet in the middle of
the island. The boat had orders to wait at the
bar until the arrival of the steamer, and then to
return with all speed. In the meanwhile, the
‘Daylight’ was discharging her cargo,
and we were making preparations for what we well knew
would prove a most arduous undertaking; the sequel
will show that we did not overrate the difficulties
before us.
At the risk of being tedious, I must
explain to the reader some of the peculiarities of
Hinchinbrook Island. Its length is a little short
of forty miles, and its shape a rude triangle, the
apex of which is at the south, and the north side
forming the southern portion of Rockingham Bay.
Now this north side is by no means straight, but is
curved out into two or three bays of considerable
extent, and in one of them stand two islands named
Gould and Garden Islands. The latter of these
was our favourite resort for picnics, for the dense
foliage afforded good shade, and, when the tide was
low, we were enabled to gather most delicious oysters
from some detached rocks. Gould Island is considerably
larger; but, rising in a pyramid from the sea, and
being covered with loose boulders, it was most tedious
climbing. From the township we could, with our
glasses, see canoes constantly passing and repassing
between these two islands; and as the ‘Daylight’
had a particularly heavy cargo this trip, and would
not be clear for the next two days, we made up our
minds to search the islands, and drive the blacks
on to Hinchinbrook, so that one of our parties must
stumble across them when we swept it. This may
seem to the reader unnecessary trouble, but most of
our party were conversant with the habits of the blacks
and their limited method of reasoning; and we judged
it probable that the Herbert River gins would have
at once acquainted the Hinchinbrook blacks with our
unceremonious visit, and warned them that we should
probably soon look them up also. Now on the receipt
of this unwelcome intelligence, the first thing that
would strike the blacks would be the facilities for
concealment afforded by Gould or Garden Islands, more
particularly had they any captives; and they would
say to themselves that we should certainly overlook
these two out-of-the-way little spots; and when we
were busy on Hinchinbrook, they could easily paddle
themselves and their prisoners to some of the more
distant chain of islands, where they could lie by
until all fear of pursuit was past. Such was
the opinion both of the troopers and of the experienced
bushmen; and as we were fully resolved to leave them
no loophole for escape, we jumped into our boat and
pulled gently over to Garden Island.
It was about seven o’clock in
the morning when we started, six strong four
whites, and Cato, and Ferdinand well armed,
and with a good supply of provisions. The sun
was already very hot, and the water smooth as glass,
save where the prow of the boat broke the still surface
into a tiny ripple, which continued plainly visible
half a mile astern. I find it difficult to bring
before the reader the thousand curious objects that
met us on our way. The sullen crocodile basking
in the sun, sank noiselessly; a splash would be heard,
and a four feet albicore would fling himself madly
into the air, striving vainly to elude the ominous
black triangle that cut the water like a knife close
in his rear. Small chance for the poor fugitive,
with the ravenous shark following silent and inexorable.
We lay on our oars and watched the result.
The hunted fish doubles, springs aloft, and dives down,
but all in vain; the black fin is not to be thrown
off, double as he may. Anon the springs become
more feeble, the pursuer’s tail partly appears
as he pushes forward with redoubled vigour, a faint
splash is heard, the waters curl into an eddy, and
the monster sinks noiselessly to enjoy his breakfast
in the cooler depths beneath. And now we come
to a sand bank running out some miles or so into the
bay, and on which the water is less than three fathoms.
Here the surface is broken by huge black objects,
coming clumsily to the top, shooting out a jet of
spray, and again disappearing. We let the boat
glide gently along until she rests motionless above
the bank, and stooping over the side with our faces
close to the water, and sheltered by our hands, we
can peer down into the placid depths, and see the
huge animals grazing on the submarine vegetation with
which their favourite feeding-place is thickly overgrown.
But what animal is he talking about? the reader will
ask. It is the dugong (’Halicore Australis’),
or sea-cow, from whence is extracted an oil equal
to the cod-liver as regards its medicinal qualities,
and far superior to it in one great essential, for
instead of a nauseous disagreeable flavour, it tastes
quite pleasantly. It frequents the whole of
the north-eastern coast of Australia, and when the
qualities of the oil first became known, it was eagerly
sought after by invalids who could not overcome their
repugnance to the cod-liver nastiness. The fishermen,
however, spoilt their own market, for greed induced
them to adulterate the new medicine with shark oil,
and all kinds of other abominations, so that the faculty
were never quite certain what they were pouring down
the throats of their unhappy patients. Thus the
oil lost its good name, though I am convinced from
personal observation that fresh, pure dugong is quite
equal, if not superior, in nourishing qualities to
cod-liver oil, and do not doubt that a time will come
when it will enter largely into the Pharmacopoeia.
The animal itself is so peculiar, that a brief description
of it may not be here amiss. Its favourite haunts
are bays into which streams empty themselves, and
where the water is from two to five fathoms in depth,
feeding on the ‘Algae’ of the submerged
banks, for which purpose the upper lip is very large,
thick, and as it turns down suddenly at right angles
with the head, it much resembles an elephant’s
trunk shorn off at the mouth. Its length averages
from eight to fourteen feet; there is no dorsal fin,
and the tail is horizontal; colour blue, and white
beneath. Its means of propulsion are two paddles,
with which it also crawls along the bottom, and beneath
which are situated the udders, with teats exactly like
a cow’s. Its flesh is far from bad, resembling
lean beef in appearance, though hardly so good to
the taste, and the skin can be manufactured into gelatine.
I have often wondered that this most useful animal
was not oftener captured. A fishing establishment
with a good boat, a trained crew, and proper appliances
for extracting the oil, could not fail to return a
large profit to the proprietors, and every now and
then they could kill a whale, one or more of which
could be frequently seen disporting themselves in
the waters of the bay.
By ten o’clock we had reached
Garden Island, and beached the boat on a long sandy
spit that stretched into the sea. Leaving one
man as boat-keeper, we spread ourselves into line,
and regularly beat the little island from end to end,
but without finding a single black; we could, however,
see their smoke-signals arising from Gould Island,
and observed several heavily-laden canoes making the
best of their way towards Hinchinbrook. Our
search having been unsuccessful, we hurried down to
the boat, with the intention of cutting the fugitives
off, but found to our disgust that the tide had fallen
so low during our absence that our united strength
was insufficient to move the boat, so we were perforce
compelled to remain until the return of the water.
This did not in reality so much signify, indeed,
some of the party were rather averse to our plan of
intercepting the canoes, arguing that if closely pressed,
the blacks might make an end of their captives.
However this might be, there was no help for it, we
were stuck fast until the afternoon, so had to summon
such philosophy as we possessed, and while away the
time as best we could. The boat’s sail,
spread under the shade of a tree, kept the intense
heat a little at bay until after dinner, and this
most essential part of the day’s programme have
been done ample justice to, and the pipes lighted
and smoked out, we wandered about the long space left
bare by the tide, amusing ourselves by collecting
oysters, cowrie shells, and periwinkles.
The way we captured the two latter
was by turning over the rocks, to the under sides
of which we found them adhering in great numbers,
sticking on like snails to a garden wall. Some
of the cowries were very beautiful, particularly those
of a deep brown colour approaching to black.
This kind, however, were rather rare, and the lucky
finder of a large one excited some envy. These
beautiful little shells are of all sizes, from half
an inch to two inches in length. When the stone
is first turned over, the fish is almost out of its
home, and the bright colour of the shell is hidden
by a fleshy integument, but a few seconds suffice
for it to withdraw within doors, and then the mottled
pattern is seen in its full beauty. The best
way to get the shell without injury to its gloss,
is to keep the fish alive in a bucket of salt water,
until you reach home, and then to dig a hole a couple
of feet deep, and bury them. In a month or so,
they may be taken up, and will be found quite clean,
free from smell, and as bright in hue as during life.
I have tried boiling them, heaping them in the sun,
and various other methods, but this is undoubtedly
the best.
Should it ever fall to the lot of
any of my readers to have to cook periwinkles and
there are many worse things, when you are certain of
their freshness let them remember that they
should be boiled in ’salt water’.
This is to give them toughness; if fresh water is
used, however expert the operator may be with his
pin, he will fail to extract more than a moiety of
the curly delicacy. These little facts, though
extraneous to our subject, are always worth knowing.
At one end of Garden Island, and distant
from it about 200 yards, stands a very singular rock,
of a whitish hue, and when struck at a certain angle
by the sun, so much resembling the canvas of a vessel,
that it was named the “Sail Rock.”
At low tide this could be reached by wading, the
water being little more than knee-deep. Its base
was literally covered with oysters of the finest quality.
The mere task of getting there was one of considerable
difficulty, for the rock was as slippery as glass,
and whenever you got a fall which happened
on an average every five minutes bleeding
hands and jagged knees bore testimony to a couch of
growing bivalves being anything but as soft as a feather
bed; also the oysters cling so fast that they might
be taken for component parts of the rock, and only
a cold chisel and mallet will induce them to relinquish
their firm embrace. Three or four of the party
had ventured out, and we had secured a large sackful,
after which we all retired to the tent, except one
of our number, who, having a lady-love in Cardwell
with an inordinate affection for shell-fish, lingered
to fill a haversack for his ‘inamorata’.
We were comfortably smoking our pipes and watching
with satisfaction the tide rising higher and higher,
when a faint “coo-eh” from the direction
of the rock reached us, followed by another and another
and another, each one more shrill than the last.
“By Jove, Wordsworth’s
in some trouble!” exclaimed one of our party,
and, snatching up our carbines, we hurried to the end
of the island at which stood the Sail Rock.
The tide had now risen considerably, and the water
between the rock and ourselves was over four feet deep,
and increasing in depth each moment. We saw
poor Wordsworth clinging on to the slippery wall,
as high up as the smooth mass afforded hand-hold.
“Come along, old fellow!”
we shouted; “it’s not up to your neck yet.”
“He turned his head over his
shoulder even at the distance we were,
its pallor was quite visible and slowly
and cautiously releasing one hand, he pointed to the
water between himself and the island.
“By Jove!” cried the pilot,
“he’s bailed up by a shark, look at his
sprit-sail!” and following his finger we saw
an enormous black fin sailing gently to and fro, as
regularly and methodically as a veteran sentry paces
the limits of his post.
“Stick tight, old man! we’ll
bring the boat,” and leaving the pilot to keep
up a fusillade at the monster with the carbines, we
darted back. I shall never forget the efforts
we made to launch the boat, but she was immovable,
and every moment the tide was rising, the little ripples
expending themselves in bubbly foam against the thirsty
sand. We strained, we tugged, we prised
with levers, but unavailingly, the boat seemed as
if she had taken root there and would not budge an
inch. A happy thought struck me all of a sudden,
as a reminiscence of a similar case that I had seen
in years gone by came back in full vigour.
“Give me a tomahawk,” I said.
One was produced in a minute from
under the stern-sheets. Meanwhile I had got
out a couple of the oars.
“Now, Jim, you’re the best axeman, off
with them here!”
Half a dozen strokes to each, and
the blades were severed from the looms.
“Now boys, lay aft and lift her stern.”
It was done, and one of the oars placed under as a
roller.
“Now, launch together.”
“Heave with a will.”
“She’s moving!”
“Again so. Keep her going.”
“Hurrah!” and a loud cheer
broke forth, as, through the medium of the friendly
rollers, the heavy boat trundled into the water.
The pull was long, at least it seemed
to us long, for we had to round the sandy spit before
we could head towards the rock, and nearly got on
shore in trying to make too close a shave. We
could hear the crack of the pilot’s carbine
every few minutes, borne down to us by the freshening
breeze, and the agonising “coo-ehs” of
poor Wordsworth, whose ankles were already hidden
by the advancing waters; added to this, we had only
two oars, and the wind, now pretty strong, was dead
in our teeth. I was steering, and Jim was standing
up in the bows with his carbine for a shot, if the
shark offered such an opportunity. As we neared
the rock we could distinctly see the black fin within
six feet of the narrow ledge on which the poor fellow
was standing, and only when we approached to within
a couple of boats’ lengths, did the ferocious
brute sail sullenly out to sea, pursued by a harmless
bullet from Jim’s rifle. Poor Wordsworth
dropped into the boat fainting from terror, exhaustion,
and loss of blood, for, although he was unconscious
of it all the time, in his convulsive grip, the sharp
oyster-shells had cut his hands to the very bone.
A good glass of grog and some hot tea the
bushman’s infallible remedy soon brought
him round, but the scars on his hands and knees will
accompany him to his grave. He afterwards described
the glances that the shark threw at him as perfectly
diabolical, and confessed that he it not been for the
cheery hails of the pilot, he should most certainly
have relinquished his hold, and met with a death too
horrible to contemplate.
It was now about three o’clock
in the afternoon, and the boat being launched, we
resolved to reach Gould Island before dark. The
tent was soon struck, the provisions stowed away,
the priming of the carbines looked to afresh, and
in a few minutes we were sweeping across the small
belt of water that separated the two islands.
We approached the shore with caution, for, as I mentioned
before, the sides of Gould Island are everywhere very
steep, and hostile blacks, by simply dislodging some
of the loose masses of rock, could easily have smashed
the boat and its crew to pieces without exposing themselves
to the slightest danger. Noiselessly, and with
every faculty painfully alert, we closed the land,
sprang on to the rocks, and at once set about the
tedious task of breasting the hill. Hill climbing,
under the vertical sun of North Australia, is by no
means an enjoyable undertaking, more particularly
when the loose shale and rock gives way at every stride,
bringing down an avalanche of rubbish on the heads
of the rearmost of the party. Encumbered with
our carbines, we made but slow progress, and it was
nearly six o’clock before we attained the summit,
from whence we saw several canoes making their way
with full speed towards Hinchinbrook.
“So far then, so good,”
we said; “we have made certain that none of the
rascals are lurking about the two islands, and we are
sure to get them now, when we sweep Hinchinbrook.”
We had now done everything that was
possible until the ‘Daylight’ had finished
unloading, and so spread ourselves out about the island
to see if the blacks had left any of their curious
implements behind them. We were in no hurry
to get back to the township, so purposed having supper
where we were, and pulling back in the cool of the
evening, by the light of the moon, which was just
then in full glory. We found plenty of traces
of the blacks, the embers of their fires even still
glowing, but they had carried off everything with
them, and no trophies crowned our search of Gould
Island; and yet I am wrong, for I got one memento,
which I have by me still, and which is so curious to
lovers of natural history that I am tempted to describe
it. In rummaging about, I came to a place strewed
with old bones, shells, parrots’ feathers, etc., close to which
stood a platform of interwoven sticks. I was terribly puzzled at first to
account for the presence of this miniature rag and bone depot, and my
astonishment culminated when Ferdinand informed me that
“Bird been make it that fellow;
plenty d d thief that fellow, steal like
it pipe, like it anything.”
It then flashed across me that I had
fallen in with the “run” of the bower-bird,
of which I had so often heard, and had so often sought
for without success.
The satin bower-bird (’Ptilonorhynchus
holosericus’) belongs to the family of
starlings, and though tolerably common in New South
Wales, is but a rare visitor to the hotter climate
of Northern Queensland. The plumage of the adult
male is of a glossy satin-like purple, appearing almost
black, whilst the females and the young are all of
an olive-greenish colour. The peculiarity for
which this bird is generally known, is its habit of
constructing a sort of arbour of dry twigs, to act
as a playground. These bowers are usually made
in some secluded place in the bush not
infrequently under the shady boughs of a large tree and
vary considerably in size, according to the number
of birds resorting to them, for they seem to be joint-stock
affairs, and are not limited to one pair. The
bower itself is somewhat difficult to describe, and
a better idea can be formed from the engraving, or
by visiting the British Museum, where several are
shown, than I can ever hope to set before the reader
in words. A number of sticks, most artistically
woven together, form the base, from the centre of which
the walls of the structure arise. These walls
are made of lighter twigs, and considerable pains
must be taken in their selection, for they all have
an inward curve, which in some “runs” cause
the sides almost to meet at the top. The degree
of forethought that these self-taught architects possess
is strikingly exemplified in the fact that, whilst
building the walls, any forks or inequalities are turned
‘outwards’, so as to offer no impediment
to their free passage when skylarking (if it is not
an Irishism, using such an expression with regard
to a starling) and chasing each other through and through
the bower, to which innocent recreations, according
to the testimony of Messrs. Cato and Ferdinand, they
devote the major part of their time. Their love
of finery and gaudy colours is also most remarkable.
Interwoven amongst the twigs of which the bower is
composed, and scattered about the ground in its vicinity,
are found bleached bones, broken oyster, snail, and
cowrie shells, and not unfrequently, in the more civilised
districts, pieces of coloured rag, and fragments of
ribbon pilfered from some neighbouring station, for,
in search of attractive objects to decorate his playground,
the bower-bird entirely ignores the eighth commandment,
and, I fear, justifies the somewhat strong expression
of “d d thief” which Ferdinand
bestowed on him. Indeed, so well are his filching
propensities known to the natives, that they make
a practice of searching the runs whenever any small
article of value is missing, and often succeed in recovering
the lost object.
I find that I have been using the
pronoun ‘he’ hitherto, whilst describing
this insatiable love of finery, but on reflection I
cannot but think that I am utterly wrong, and that
when more is known of the domestic arrangements of
the bower-bird, it will be found that the lady alone
is responsible for this meretricious taste, and that
the poor ‘he’, whom I have so unblushingly
accused, is in reality gathering berries and fruit
for the little ones, guiltless of the slightest inclination
towards picking and stealing.
These birds live and thrive in confinement,
and busy themselves immensely in the construction
of runs, but they never multiply whilst captive.
Indeed, the place and manner of their breeding is as
yet a mystery, for, so skilful are they in concealment,
that even the lynx-eyed blacks have failed to discover
their next.
We found the descent to the boat incomparably
preferable to the tedious climb of two hours previous,
and, thanks to the promise of a “nobbler of
rum each,” Cato and Ferdinand transported my
precious “run” in safety to the stern-sheets;
the sun having then sunk in crimson beauty behind
the coast-range, and the breeze having fallen to the
faintest whisper, we shoved off, and pulled leisurely
over the calm bay to Cardwell, arriving about ten
o’clock, to hear the welcome news that the ‘Daylight’
would be ready for us on the following afternoon.
HOW WE EXPLORED HINCHINBROOK ISLAND.
The sun was just showing above the
distant sea-line, and the bay was lying motionless
as a mirror, with a rosy hue thrown across its placid
surface, when I awoke on the following morning, stiff
from the clamber of the preceding day. The short
half-hour before the rays of the sun have attained
an unpleasant fierceness is most enjoyable in Australia,
particularly in a wild region such as Cardwell, where
birds, beasts, and fishes pursue their daily avocations,
heedless of the presence of man. My house was
situated at the extreme north end of the township,
and far apart from the nearest dwelling so
much so, in fact, that it was only by a stretch of
the imagination that I could say I was included within
the village boundary. On the side farthest from
the settlement lay the virgin bush, whilst outside
the garden at the back, all was wild and rude as Nature
had left it, except a small clearing I had made for
the growth of maize, sweet potatoes, etc.
Now this clearing had many enemies, and of many species,
ranging from feathered and furred to biped.
The cockatoos came down in such clouds as almost to
whiten the ground, and made short work of the maize;
the bandicoots and the township pigs dug up and devoured
the sweet potatoes, just as they were becoming large
enough for use commend me to your half-starved
pig to find out in a moment where the juiciest and
finest esculent lies buried and the chattering
little opossums stripped the peach-trees of their
wealth, in which labour of love they were eagerly
assisted by the flying-foxes during the night, whilst
any that had escaped these nocturnal depredators became
the spoil of two or three idle boys, who loafed about
all day, seeking mischief, and, as always happens,
succeeding in finding it, even in this sequestered
region. From this it will be seen that my efforts
in the direction of husbandry were attended with some
difficulty, and, despite a real liking for the animal
world, I had imbibed a holy hatred of that particular
section of its society which insisted on devouring
my substance under my very nose, only retreating to
the nearest tree until my back was turned, and then
resuming operations with unblushing effrontery.
By way of a mild vengeance, I had got into the habit
of coming out every morning directly I awoke, with
my gun, and easing off both barrels amongst the cockatoos,
wallabies, or whatever particular class of robbers
happened to be afield at the moment a practice
which served as a safety-valve for my injured feelings,
whilst at the same time it provided me with a cockatoo
pie, or a good bowl of kangaroo-tail soup.
Once, in my indignation at finding
my palings broken down, and some sugar-cane, that
I had been most carefully rearing, rooted up and destroyed,
while the author of the mischief, a huge sow, innocent
of the restraining ring (I would have hung the ring
of the ‘Devastation’s’ best bower-anchor
to her snout, had I been allowed to follow out my
wishes), stood gloating over the havoc she had caused.
Then, in my wrath, I had hastily loaded a carbine
with a handful of salt, and prematurely converted
a portion of my enemy’s flank into bacon; but
even this just act of retribution was not to be accomplished
without further loss to myself, for on receipt of
my hint to move on, her sowship dashed straight ahead,
and brought down a whole panel of my fence about her
ears, owing to which the village cows, which I had
often observed throwing longing glances over the paling
at my bananas, doubtless apprised of their opportunity
by the evil-minded and malicious sow, took a mean
advantage of the weakness of my defences, and on the
same night devoured everything in the garden that they
thought worthy of their attention.
Though I had now become hardened to
the many injuries thus heaped upon me, and had almost
discontinued all attempts at cultivation, I still
retained the habit of stepping out into the verandah
every morning with my gun, but more with an eye to
the pot than for any other reason.
Beautiful as the scene always was,
it struck me that day as being of unusual splendour.
The tall gum-trees, with their naked stems, and curious
hanging leaves that exasperate the heated traveller
by throwing the scantiest of shadows, glistened dew-beaded
in the rising sun. The laughing jackass, perched
upon a bare limb, was awaking the forest echoes with
his insane fits of laughter, alternating from a good-humoured
chuckle to the frenzied ravings of a despairing maniac.
Suddenly ceasing, he would dart down upon some hapless
lizard, too early astir for its own safety, and, with
his writhing prey in his bill, would fly to some other
branch, and after swallowing his captive, burst forth
into a yell of self-gratulation even-more fiendish
than before. The delicate little “paddy
melon,” a small species of kangaroo, turned
his gracefully-formed little head, beautiful as a
fawn’s, and, startled at the strange figure in
the verandah, stood hesitatingly for a few seconds,
and then, bending forward, bounded into the scrub,
the noise caused by the flapping of its tail being
audible long after the little animal itself was lost
to sight. The white cockatoos, alarmed by the
outcry of the sentry for, like the English
rooks, they always tell off some of their number to
keep a look-out who with sulphur-coloured
crest, erect and outstretched neck, kept up a constant
cry of warning, rose from the maize patch, the spotless
white of their plumage glancing in the sun, and forming
a beautiful contrast to the pale straw-colour of the
under portion of their extended pinions. With
discordant screams they circle about, as if a little
undetermined, and then perch upon the topmost branches
of the tallest trees, where they screech, flap their
wings, and engage in a series of either imaginary
combats, or affectionate caresses, until, the coast
being clear, they are again enabled to continue their
repast.
A curious and indescribable wailing
cry is heard in the air, singularly depressing in
its effect, and a string of some dozen black cockatoos
flit from tree to tree, the brilliant scarlet band
on the tail of the male flashing as he alternately
expands and contracts it, to keep his balance whilst
extracting the sweets from the flowers of the ‘Eucalypti’.
Few things present so great a contrast as the cries
of these two birds of the same family,
and so alike in everything but colour and
yet both are disagreeable: that of the white
variety from its piercing harshness, and that of the
black from an indefinable sensation of the approach
of coming evil it carries with it at least,
such is the effect it always has upon me. On
strolling to the paling and looking into the clearing for
although my gun is in my hand, it is loaded with ball
cartridge, and I do not fire the nimble
little bandicoot scuttled away towards his hollow
log, looking so uncommonly like a well-fattened rat,
that I mentally wonder how I could ever have had the
courage to eat one, and a flight of rainbow-hued Blue
Mountain parrots, who have held their ground to the
last, whirr up with a prodigious flapping of wings,
and, alighting on a gum-tree, can be seen hanging
about the blossoms, head downwards, sucking out the
honey with their uncouth beaks and awkward little
tongues, which seem but badly adapted to such a delicate
task. But I find I am digressing terribly, and
the gloomy winter days of England, which make the recollection
of a bright tropical morning so agreeable a task to
contemplate, must be my excuse.
After breakfast, I hurried down to
the beach to see if Tom Frewin, the skipper of the
little cutter, ‘Daylight’, would be likely
to keep his promise, and have the vessel ready to
start by noon. I found him busily engaged with
his not over-numerous crew for it consisted
only of a man and a boy, besides himself, though Mrs.
Tom, who also lived in the tiny craft, ought to be
counted as no inconsiderable addition to the vessel’s
complement, for she did the cooking, and on occasions
could take the tiller and steer as cunningly as the
gallant Tom himself. I found him hard at work
hurrying the cargo over the side, assisted by the
townspeople, who all showed the greatest anxiety that
no time should be lost in setting out for the relief
of the shipwrecked men. Everything thus pointing
to the probability of our getting away that afternoon,
the provision question had to be next considered, for
the party would be numerous, and the exact time our
expedition would take could scarcely be correctly
estimated. We knew Government would refund us
for any reasonable outlay, and so determined our search
should not be cut short by any scarcity of food, and
our fears of overshooting the mark and laying in more
than we could consume, were allayed by Mr. McB ,
the store-keeper who generously offered to supply
us, and to take back, without charge, anything that
remained at the expiration of the trip. All
difficulties being thus disposed of, we were left
at liberty to make our own private arrangements, until
one o’clock, by which time the ‘Daylight’
would have laid in her water, etc., and be ready
to start.
But I must now say something of the
party itself, which we were compelled to limit to
ten men, inclusive of the native police. These
consisted of the pilot and his crew of two men, Mr.
Dunmore, the officer in command of the police, with
the two troopers, Ferdinand and Cato, three volunteers,
and myself. Where all were anxious and willing
to aid in the good task, it would have been invidious
to select, and the volunteers drew lots from a bag
in which all were blanks but three, the gainers of
these lucky numbers becoming members of the party.
One other addition we had, and right
yeoman’s service she did, for it was a ‘she’,
reader as the sequel will prove. About eighteen
months before, the troopers had visited Hinchinbrook
Island, to recover stolen property, and in one of
the native camps had found an exceedingly pretty gin
of some fourteen summers. The personal charms
of this coy nymph of the forest had proved too much
for the susceptible heart of Ferdinand, who, regarding
her as his lawful prize, had borne her, irate and
struggling, to the boat, from whence she was in due
course transported to the police camp (mounted on
the pommel of the saddle in front of the adventurous
swain), where, in a very short time she became perfectly
at home, and under the name of Lizzie, made Ferdinand
a remarkably pleasant wife.
Certainly the blacks are a curious
race, the like of which was never before seen under
the sun. For two days after Lizzie’s arrival
in camp, she refused to speak or eat; for the next
two days she ate everything she could lay her hands
on, but still kept an unbroken silence; and for another
two days, whenever she was not eating, she “yabbered”
so much and so fast that the other gins looked on aghast,
unable to get a word in edgewise, so continuous was
the flow of Hinchinbrook vituperation. On the
seventh day, as if by magic, she brought her tirade
to a close, went down to the creek with the other
gins to fetch water, cooked her husband’s supper,
appeared perfectly reconciled to her change of life,
and henceforth, from her sharpness, the aptitude with
which she picked up the broken English in which the
officers communicate with the troopers, and her great
knowledge of the surrounding country, she became a
most useful acquisition to the camp, and Dunmore used
frequently to say that Lizzie was worth three extra
troopers. One of the most extraordinary things
about her and she was not unique, for all
the Australian blacks are alike constituted in this
respect was the facility with which she
seemed to rupture all the natural ties of kinship
and affection. Her own tribe her father,
mother, sisters, all were apparently wiped from her
mind as completely as writing is removed from a slate
by a sponge; or, if ever remembered, it was never
with any mark of regret.