When I was a “boy on a farm,”
one of my school teachers had a small machine, which
was sometimes used to print the names of students in
their books. Somehow I came to want a “printing
press,” and after a while I purchased an outfit
for fifteen cents, but it was a poor thing and failed
to satisfy me. Accordingly, I disposed of it and
spent a larger sum for a typewriter, which was little
more than a toy. This, too, was unsatisfactory,
and I sold it. At a later date, I bought a second-hand
typewriter, which was turned in as part payment for
the machine I am now using to write this book, and
now, after all these successive steps, I find myself
possessed of a real typewriter. I will also mention
my youthful desire for a watch. I wanted a timepiece
and thought I would like for it to be of small size.
I thought of it when awake, and, sometimes, when asleep,
dreamed that I actually had the little watch in my
possession. Since those days of dreams and disappointments,
I have had three watches, and they have all been of
small size.
In the same way, several years ago,
I became possessed of a desire to see the Land of
Promise, the earthly Canaan. I thought about it
some, and occasionally spoke of it. There were
seasons when the desire left me, but it would come
back again. Some years ago, when I was doing
evangelistic work in Canada, the desire returned this
time to stay. It grew stronger and stronger until
I decided to make the trip, which was begun on the
eleventh of July, 1904. After traveling many thousands
of miles, seeing numerous new and interesting sights,
making many pleasant acquaintances, and having a variety
of experiences, I returned to the home of my father
on the fourteenth day of December, having been absent
five months and three days, and having had a more extensive
trip than I had at first thought of taking. There
is a lesson in the foregoing that I do not want overlooked.
It is this: Whatever we earnestly desire is apt
to be worked out in our lives. Deeds usually begin
with thoughts. If the thoughts are fostered and
cultivated, the deeds will probably be performed some
time. It is, therefore, important that we exercise
care as to the kind of thoughts we allow to remain
in our hearts. “Keep thy heart with all
diligence; for out of it are the issues of life”
(Prov. i.
On the way to New York, I stopped
in Washington and saw some of the interesting places
of the National Capital. The Bureau of Engraving
and Printing, where about six hundred persons were
engaged in printing paper money and stamps, was visited.
I also went out to the Washington Monument and climbed
to the top of the winding stairs, although I might
have gone up in the free elevator if I had preferred
to ride. The Medical Museum, National Museum,
Treasury Building, the White House, the Capitol, and
other points of interest received attention, and my
short stay in this city was very enjoyable.
I spent a night in Philadelphia, after
an absence of more than four years, and enjoyed a
meeting with the church worshiping on Forty-sixth
Street. It was very pleasant to meet those I had
known when I was there before, some of whom I had
been instrumental in bringing to Christ. In New
York I made arrangements to sail for Glasgow on the
S.S. Mongolian, of the Allan Line, which was
to sail at eleven o’clock on the fourteenth
of July, and the voyage was begun almost as promptly
as a railway train leaves the depot. We passed
the Statue of Liberty a few minutes before noon, and
then I prepared some mail to be sent back by the pilot
who took us down to the sea. The water was smooth
almost all the way across, and we reached the desired
haven on the eleventh day. I went back to my
room the first morning after breakfast and was lying
in my berth when a gentleman came along and told me
I would have to get up, they were going to have inspection.
I arose and found part of the crew scrubbing the floor
and others washing down a wall. Everything was
being put in good condition for the examination to
be given by some of the officers who passed through
each day at about ten o’clock. The seamen
knew the inspection was sure to come, and they knew
the hour at which it would take place, so they made
ready for it. We know that there is a great “inspection”
day appointed when God will judge the world, but we
do not know the exact time. It is, therefore,
important to be ready always, that the day may not
overtake us “as a thief in the night.”
Religious services were held on the
ship each Lord’s day, but I missed the last
meeting. On the first Sunday morning I arose as
usual and ate breakfast. As there was no opportunity
to meet with brethren and break bread in memory of
the Lord Jesus, I read the account of the giving of
the Lord’s Supper as recorded in Matthew, Mark,
and John; also Paul’s language concerning the
institution in the eleventh chapter of the first Corinthian
letter, and was thankful that my life had been spared
until another beautiful resurrection morning.
At half past ten o’clock I went into one of
the dining rooms where two ministers were conducting
a meeting. The order of the service, as nearly
as I can give it, was as follows: Responsive
reading of the twenty-third and twenty-fourth Psalms;
prayer; the hymn, “Onward, Christian Soldiers”;
reading of the twenty-ninth Psalm; prayer; the hymn,
“Lead, Kindly Light”; an address on “Knowing
God”; prayer; the collection, taken while singing;
and the benediction. The ship furnished Bibles
and hymn-books. A large copy of the Bible was
placed upon a British flag at the head of one of the
tables where the speaker stood, but he read from the
American Revised Version of the Scriptures. The
sermon was commenced by some remarks to the effect
that man is hard to please. Nothing earthly satisfies
him, but Thomas expressed the correct idea when he
said: “Show us the Father and it sufficeth
us.” The minister then went on to speak
of God as “the God of patience,” “the
God of comfort,” “the God of hope,”
and “the God of peace.” It was, with
some exceptions, a pleasing and uplifting address.
There were about thirty persons in attendance, and
the collection was for the Sailors’ Orphans’
Home in Scotland. The following is one verse
of the closing hymn:
“A few more years shall roll,
A few more seasons come,
And we shall be with those that rest,
Asleep within the tomb;
Then, oh, my Lord, prepare
My soul for that great day,
Oh, wash me in thy precious blood
And take my sins away.”
Before the close of the day, I read
the whole of Mark’s record of the life of our
Savior and turned my Bible over to Gus, the steward.
We had food served four times, as usual. The
sea was smooth and the day passed quietly. A
Catholic gentleman said something at breakfast about
“saying a few prayers” to himself, and
I heard a woman, in speaking about going to church,
say she had beads and a prayer-book with her.
Later in the day I saw her out on the deck with a
novel, and what I supposed to be the prayer-book,
but she was reading the novel.
Several of the passengers had reading
matter with them. Some read novels, but my Book
was far better than any of these. It has a greater
Author, a wider range of history, more righteous laws,
purer morals, and more beautiful description than
theirs. It contains a longer and better love
story than theirs, and reveals a much grander Hero.
The Bible both moralizes and Christianizes those who
permit its holy influence to move them to loving obedience
of the Lord Jesus. It can fill its thoughtful
reader with holy hope and lead him into the realization
of that hope. It is a Book adapted to all men
everywhere, and the more carefully it is read the
greater the interest in it and the profit from it become.
It is the volume that teaches us how to live here
that we may live hereafter, and in the dying hour
no one will regret having been a diligent student
of its matchless pages of divine truth and wisdom.
The last Lord’s day of the voyage
the ship reached Moville, Ireland, where a small vessel
came out and took off the passengers for Londonderry.
The tilled land, visible from the ship, reminded me
of a large garden. Some time that night we anchored
in the harbor at Greenock, near the mouth of the River
Clyde. About one o’clock the second steward
came in, calling out: “Janes!” I answered
from my berth and heard him call out: “Don
Carlos Janes!” Again I answered and learned
that he had some mail for me. I told him to hand
it in, not remembering that the door was locked, but
that made no difference, for he handed it in anyhow,
but the locking arrangement on that door needed repairing
after he went away. I arose and examined the two
pieces of mail, which were from friends, giving me
directions as to where I should go when the ship got
up to Glasgow, twenty-two miles from the sea.
There was but one case of sea sickness reported on
the whole voyage. There was one death, but the
corpse was carried into port instead of being buried
at sea.
The home of Brother and Sister Henry
Nelmes, which was my home while I staid in Glasgow,
is nicely located. Brother Nelmes and his wife
are excellent people, and treated me with much kindness.
Glasgow is a large and important city, with many interesting
places in it. The Municipal Building with its
marble stairs, alabaster balustrade, onyx columns,
and other ornamentation, is attractive on the inside,
but the exterior impressed me more with the idea of
stability than of beauty. The old Cathedral,
which I visited twice, is in an excellent state of
preservation, although founded in the eleventh century.
There is an extensive burial ground adjoining the
Cathedral, and one of the prominent monuments is at
the grave of John Knox, the reformer. These impressive
words, written from memory, were spoken by the Regent
at the burial of Knox, and have been carved upon his
monument: “Here lieth he who never feared
the face of man, who was often threatened with dag
and dagger, yet hath ended his days in peace and honor.”
Carlyle spoke of him as a man “fearing God,
without any other fear.”
One day I visited the birth-place
of Robert Burns, at Ayr, a point not far from Glasgow.
I not only saw the “lowly thatched cottage,”
but a monument to the poet, “Auld Kirk Alloway,”
the “brig o’ Doon,” and many interesting
articles in the museum. When the street car came
to a standstill, I had the old church and cemetery
on my right hand, and the monument on my left hand,
while a man was standing in the road, ahead of us,
blowing a cornet, and just beyond was the
new bridge over the Doon, a short distance below the
old one, which is well preserved and profusely decorated
with the initials of many visitors. Along the
bank of “bonny Doon” lies a little garden,
on the corner of which is situated a house where liquor
is sold, if I mistake not. It was before this
house that I saw the musician already mentioned.
As I came up from the old “brig o’ Doon,”
I saw and heard a man playing a violin near the monument.
When I went down the road toward the new bridge and
looked over into the garden, I saw a couple of persons
executing a cake-walk, and an old man with one leg
off was in the cemetery that surrounds the ruined
church, reciting selections from Burns. Such is
the picture I beheld when I visited this Ayrshire
monument, raised in memory of the sympathetic but
unfortunate Scottish poet, whose “spark o’
nature’s fire” has touched so many hearts
that his birth-place has more visitors per annum than
Shakespeare’s has.
On the following day I had a pleasant
boat-ride up Loch (Lake) Long, followed by a merry
coach-ride across to the “bonny, bonny banks
of Loch Lomond,” which is celebrated in song
and story. It is twenty-two miles in length and
from three-quarters of a mile to five miles wide, and
is called the “Queen of Scottish lakes.”
Ben Lomond, a mountain rising to a height of more
than three thousand feet, stands on the shore, and
it is said that Robert Bruce, the hero of Bannockburn,
once hid himself in a cave in this mountain.
A pleasant boat-ride down the lake brought me back
to Glasgow in time to attend a meeting of the brethren
in Coplaw Street that night.
Leaving my true friends who had so
kindly entertained me in Glasgow, I proceeded to Edinburgh,
the city where Robert Burns came into prominence.
In the large Waverley Station a stranger, who knew
of my coming through word from Brother Ivie Campbell,
of Kirkcaldy, stopped me and asked: “Is
your name Don Carlos Janes?” It was another good
friend, Brother J.W. Murray. He said he
told some one he was looking for me, and was told,
in return, that he would not be able to find me.
His answer to this was that he had picked out a man
before, and he might pick out another one; and so
he did, without any difficulty. After a little
time spent in Waverley gardens, I ascended the Walter
Scott Monument, which is two hundred feet high.
The winding stairway is rather narrow, especially
at the top, and it is not well lighted. As I was
coming down the stairs, I met a lady and gentleman.
The little woman was not at all enthusiastic over
the experience she was having, and, without knowing
of my presence, she was wondering what they would
do if they were to meet any one. “Come
on up and see,” I said, and we passed without
any special difficulty, but she said she didn’t
believe “two stout ones could” pass.
As she went on up the winding way, she was heard expressing
herself in these words: “Oh, it is a place,
isn’t it? I don’t like it.”
The tourist finds many “places”, and they
are not all desirable. Princess Street, on which
the monument is located, is the prettiest street that
I have ever seen. One side is occupied by business
houses and hotels, the other is a beautiful garden,
where one may walk or sit down, surrounded by green
grass and beautiful flowers.
Edinburgh Castle is an old fortification
on the summit of a lofty hill overlooking the city.
It is now used as barracks for soldiers, and is capable
of accommodating twelve hundred men. Queen Mary’s
room is a small chamber, where her son, James the
First of Scotland and the Sixth of England, was born.
I was in the old castle in Glasgow where she spent
the night before the Battle of Langside, and later
stood by her tomb in Westminster Abbey. Her history,
a brief sketch of which is given here, is interesting
and pathetic. “Mary Queen of Scots was born
in Linlithgow Palace, 1542; fatherless at seven days
old; became Queen December 8th, 1542, and was crowned
at Stirling, September 9th, 1543; carried to France,
1548; married to the Dauphin, 1558; became Queen of
France, 1559; a widow, 1560; returned to Scotland,
1561; married Lord Darnley, 1565; her son (and successor),
James VI., born at Edinburgh Castle, 1566; Lord Darnley
murdered, February, 1567; Mary married to the Earl
of Bothwell, May, 1567, and was compelled to abdicate
in favor of her infant son. She escaped from
Lochleven Castle, lost the Battle of Langside, and
fled to England, 1568. She was beheaded February
8th, 1587, at Fotheringay Castle, in the forty-fifth
year of her age, almost nineteen years of which she
passed in captivity.
“Puir Mary was born and was cradled
in tears,
Grief cam’ wi’ her birth,
and grief grew wi’ her years.”
In the crown-room are to be seen the
regalia of Scotland, consisting of the crown, scepter,
sword of state, a silver rod of office, and other
jewels, all enclosed in a glass case surrounded by
iron work. St. Margaret’s Chapel, seventeen
feet long and eleven feet wide, stands within the
castle enclosure and is the oldest building in the
city. A very old cannon, called Mons Meg, was
brought back to the castle through the efforts of
Walter Scott, and is now on exhibition. I visited
the Hall of Statuary in the National Gallery, the
Royal Blind Asylum, passed St. Giles Cathedral, where
John Knox preached, dined with Brother Murray, and
boarded the train for Kirkcaldy, where I as easily
found Brother Campbell at the station as Brother Murray
had found me in Edinburgh.
I had been in correspondence with
Brother Campbell for some years, and our meeting was
a pleasure, and my stay at Kirkcaldy was very enjoyable.
We went up to St. Andrews, and visited the ruins of
the old Cathedral, the University, a monument to certain
martyrs, and the home of a sister in Christ.
But little of the Cathedral remains to be seen.
It was founded in 1159, and was the most magnificent
of Scottish churches. St. Rule’s Tower,
one hundred and ten feet high, still stands, and we
had a fine view from the top. The time to leave
Kirkcaldy came too soon, but I moved on toward Wigan,
England, to attend the annual meeting of churches
of Christ. Brother Campbell accompanied me as
far as Edinburgh, and I then proceeded to Melrose,
where I stopped off and visited Abbotsford, the home
of Sir Walter Scott. It is situated on the River
Tweed, a short distance from Melrose, and was founded
in 1811. By the expenditure of a considerable
sum of money it was made to present such an appearance
as to be called “a romance in stone and lime.”
Part of this large house is occupied as a dwelling,
but some of the rooms are kept open for the numerous
visitors who call from time to time. The young
lady who was guide the day I was at Abbotsford, first
showed us Sir Walter’s study. It is a small
room, with book shelves from the floor to the ceiling,
the desk on which Scott wrote his novels sitting in
the middle of the floor. A writing-box, made
of wood taken from one of the ships of the Spanish
Armada, sits on the desk, and the clothes worn by the
great novelist a short time before his death are kept
under glass in a case by the window, while a cast
of his face is to be seen in a small room adjoining
the study. We next passed into the library, which,
with the books in the study, contains about twenty
thousand volumes. In the armory are numerous
guns, pistols, swords, and other relics. There
is some fine furniture in one of the rooms, and the
walls are covered with paper printed by hand in China
nearly ninety years ago. Perhaps some who read
these lines will recall the sad story of Genivra, who
hid herself in an oaken chest in an attic, and perished
there, being imprisoned by the spring lock. This
oaken chest was received at Abbotsford a short time
before Scott’s death, and is now on exhibition.
Sir Walter, as the guide repeatedly called him, spent
the last years of his life under the burden of a heavy
debt, but instead of making use of the bankrupt law,
he set to work heroically with his pen to clear up
the indebtedness. He wrote rapidly, and his books
sold well, but he was one day compelled to lay down
his pen before the task was done. The King of
England gave him a trip to the Mediterranean, for
the benefit of his health, but it was of no avail.
Sir Walter returned to his home on the bank of the
Tweed, and died September twenty-first, 1832.
In his last illness, this great author, who had produced
so many volumes that were being read then and are
still being read, asked his son-in-law to read to him.
The son-in-law asked what book he should read, to
which Sir Walter replied: “Book? There
is but one Book! Read me the Bible.”
In Melrose I visited the ruins of the Abbey, and then
went on to Wigan.
After the annual meeting, I went to
Birmingham and stayed a short while. From here
I made a little journey to the birth-place of Shakespeare,
at Stratford-on-Avon, a small, quiet town, where,
to the best of my recollection, I saw neither street
cars nor omnibuses. After being in several large
cities, it was an agreeable change to spend a day in
this quiet place, where the greatest writer in the
English tongue spent his boyhood and the last days
of his life on earth. The house where he was
born was first visited. A fee of sixpence (about
twelve cents) secures admission, but another sixpence
is required if the library and museum are visited.
The house stands as it was in the poet’s early
days, with a few exceptions. Since that time,
however, part of it has been used as a meat market
and part as an inn. In 1847, the property was
announced for sale, and it fell into the hands of
persons who restored it as nearly as possible to its
original condition.
It has two stories and an attic, with
three gables in the roof facing the street. At
the left of the door by which the tourist is admitted,
is a portion of the house where the valuable documents
of the corporation are stored, while to the right
are the rooms formerly used as the “Swan and
Maidenhead Inn,” now converted into a library
and museum. The windows in the upstairs room
where the poet was born are fully occupied with the
autographs of visitors who have scratched their names
there. I was told that the glass is now valuable
simply as old glass, and of course the autographs
enhance the value. The names of Scott and Carlyle
are pointed out by the attendant in charge. From
a back window one can look down into the garden, where,
as far as possible, all the trees and flowers mentioned
in Shakespeare’s works have been planted.
For some years past the average number of visitors
to this house has been seven thousand a year.
The poet’s grave is in Trinity Church, at Stratford,
beneath a stone slab in the floor bearing these lines:
“Good friend, for Jesus’ sake,
forbear
To digg the dust enclosed here.
Blest be ye man y spares these stones,
And curst be he ty moves my bones.”
On the wall, just at hand, is a bust
made from a cast taken after his death. Near
by is a stained-glass window with the inscription,
“America’s gift to Shakespeare’s
church,” and not far away is a card above a
collection-box with an inscription which informs “visitors
from U.S.A.” that there is yet due on the window
more than three hundred dollars. The original
cost was about two thousand five hundred dollars.
The Shakespeare Memorial is a small theater by the
side of the Avon, with a library and picture gallery
attached. The first stone was laid in 1877, and
the building was opened in 1879 with a performance
of “Much Ado About Nothing.” The
old school once attended by the poet still stands,
and is in use, as is also the cottage of Anne Hathaway,
situated a short distance from Stratford. I returned
to Birmingham, and soon went on to Bristol and saw
the orphans’ homes founded by George Muller.
These homes, capable of accommodating
two thousand and fifty orphans, are beautifully situated
on Ashley Downs. Brother William Kempster and
I visited them together, and were shown through a
portion of one of the five large buildings by an elderly
gentleman, neat, clean, and humble, who was sent down
by the manager of the institution, a son-in-law of
Mr. Muller, who died in 1898, at the advanced age
of ninety-three years. We saw one of the dormitories,
which was plainly furnished, but everything was neat
and clean. We were also shown two dining-rooms,
and the library-room in which Mr. Muller conducted
a prayer-meeting only a night or two before his death.
In this room we saw a fine, large picture of the deceased,
and were told by the “helper” who was showing
us around that Mr. Muller was accustomed to saying:
“Oh, I am such a happy man!” The expression
on his face in this picture is quite in harmony with
his words just quoted. One of his sayings was:
“When anxiety begins, faith ends; when faith
begins, anxiety ends.”
Mr. Muller spent seventy years of
his life in England and became so thoroughly Anglicized
that he wished his name pronounced “Miller.”
He was the founder of the “Scriptural Knowledge
Institution for Home and Abroad” and was a man
of much more than ordinary faith. His work began
about 1834, with the distribution of literature, and
the orphan work, if I mistake not, was begun two years
later. “As the result of prayer to God”
more than five millions of dollars have been applied
for the benefit of the orphans. He never asked
help of man, but made his wants known to God, and
those who are now carrying on the work pursue the same
course, but the collection-boxes put up where visitors
can see them might be considered by some as an invitation
to give. The following quotation from the founder
of the orphanages will give some idea of the kind
of man he was. “In carrying on this work
simply through the instrumentality of prayer and faith,
without applying to any human being for help, my great
desire was, that it might be seen that, now, in the
nineteenth century, God is still the Living God,
and now, as well as thousands of years ago, he listens
to the prayers of his children and helps those who
trust in him. In all the forty-two countries through
which I traveled during the twenty-one years of my
missionary service, numberless instances came before
me of the benefit which this orphan institution has
been, in this respect, not only in making men of the
world see the reality of the things of God, and by
converting them, but especially by leading the children
of God more abundantly to give themselves to prayer,
and by strengthening their faith. Far beyond what
I at first expected to accomplish, the Lord has
been pleased to give me. But what I have seen
as the fruit of my labor in this way may not be the
thousandth part of what I shall see when the
Lord Jesus comes again; as day by day, for sixty-one
years, I have earnestly labored, in believing prayer,
that God would be pleased, most abundantly, to bless
this service in the way I have stated.”
The objects of the Scriptural Knowledge
Institution are set forth as follows: “To
assist day schools and Sunday-schools in which instruction
is given upon scriptural principles,” etc.
By day schools conducted on scriptural principles,
they mean “those in which the teachers are believers;
where the way of salvation is pointed out, and in which
no instruction is given opposed to the principles
of the Gospel.” In these schools the Scriptures
are read daily by the children. In the Sunday-schools
the “teachers are believers, and the Holy Scriptures
alone are the foundation of instruction.”
The second object of the Institution is “to
circulate the Holy Scriptures.” In one year
four thousand three hundred and fifty Bibles were
sold, and five hundred and twenty-five were given
away; seven thousand eight hundred and eighty-one
New Testament were sold, and one thousand five hundred
and seventy-four were given away; fifty-five copies
of the Psalms were sold, and thirty-eight were given
away; two thousand one hundred and sixty-three portions
of the Holy Scriptures were sold, and one hundred and
sixty-two were given away; and three thousand one
hundred illustrated portions of the Scriptures were
given away. There have been circulated through
this medium, since March, 1834, three hundred and
eleven thousand two hundred and seventy-eight Bibles,
and one million five hundred and seven thousand eight
hundred and one copies of the New Testament. They
keep in stock almost four hundred sorts of Bibles,
ranging in price from twelve cents each to more than
six dollars a copy.
Another object of the Institution
is to aid in missionary efforts. “During
the past year one hundred and eighty laborers in the
Word and doctrine in various parts of the world have
been assisted.” The fourth object is to
circulate such publications as may be of benefit both
to believers and unbelievers. In a single year
one million six hundred and eleven thousand two hundred
and sixty-six books and tracts were distributed gratuitously.
The fifth object is to board, clothe, and scientifically
educate destitute orphans. Mr. Muller belonged
to that class of religious people who call themselves
Brethren, and are called by others “Plymouth
Brethren.”
After leaving Bristol, I went to London,
the metropolis of the world. The first important
place visited was Westminster Abbey, an old church,
founded in the seventh century, rebuilt in 1049, and
restored to its present form in the thirteenth century.
Many eminent men and women are buried here. Chaucer,
the first poet to find a resting place in the Abbey,
was interred in 1400. The place where Major Andre
is buried is marked by a small piece of the pavement
bearing his name. On the wall close by is a monument
to him. Here are the graves of Isaac Newton,
Charles Dickens, Alfred Tennyson, Charles Darwin, and
many others, including Kings and Queens of England
for centuries. In the Poets’ Corner are
monuments to Coleridge, Southey, Shakespeare, Burns,
Tennyson, Milton, Gray, Spencer, and others, and one
bearing the inscription “O Rare Ben Jonson.”
There is also a bust of Longfellow, the only foreigner
accorded a memorial in the Abbey. The grave of
David Livingstone, the African explorer and missionary,
is covered with a black stone of some kind, which
forms a part of the floor or pavement, and contains
an inscription in brass letters, of which the following
quotation is a part: “All I can add in my
solitude is, may heaven’s rich blessings come
down on every one, American, English, or Turk, who
will help to heal this open sore of the world.”
Concerning this interesting old place
which is visited by more than fifty thousand Americans
annually, Jeremy Taylor wrote: “Where our
Kings are crowned, their ancestors lie interred, and
they must walk over their grandsires to take the crown.
There is an acre sown with royal seed, the copy of
the greatest change, from rich to naked, from ceiled
roofs to arched coffins, from living like gods to
die like men. There the warlike and the peaceful,
the fortunate and the miserable, the beloved and despised
princes mingle their dust and pay down their symbol
of mortality, and tell all the world that when we
die our ashes shall be equal to Kings, and our accounts
easier, and our pains for our sins shall be less.”
While walking about in the Abbey, I also found these
lines from Walter Scott:
“Here, where the end of earthly
things
Lays heroes, patriots, bards and kings;
Where stiff the hand and still the tongue
Of those who fought, and spoke, and sung;
Here, where the fretted aisles prolong
The distant notes of holy song,
As if some Angel spoke again
‘All peace on earth, good will to
men’;
If ever from an English heart,
Here let prejudice depart.”
Bunhill Fields is an old cemetery
where one hundred and twenty thousand burials have
taken place. Here lie the ashes of Isaac Watts,
the hymn writer; of Daniel De Foe, author of “Robinson
Crusoe,” and of John Bunyan, who in Bedford
jail wrote “Pilgrim’s Progress.”
The monuments are all plain. The one at the grave
of De Foe was purchased with the contributions of
seventeen hundred people, who responded to a call made
by some paper. On the top of Bunyan’s tomb
rests the figure of a man, perhaps a representation
of him whose body was laid in the grave below.
On one of the monuments in this cemetery are the following
words concerning the deceased: “In sixty-seven
months she was tapped sixty-six times. Had taken
away two hundred and forty gallons of water without
ever repining at her case or ever fearing the operation.”
Just across the street from Bunhill
Fields stands the house once occupied by John Wesley
(now containing a museum) and a meeting-house which
was built in Wesley’s day. The old pulpit
from which Mr. Wesley preached is still in use, but
it has been lowered somewhat. In front of the
chapel is a statue of Wesley, and at the rear is his
grave, and close by is the last resting place of the
remains of Adam Clarke, the commentator.
A trip to Greenwich was quite interesting.
I visited the museum and saw much of interest, including
the painted hall, the coat worn by Nelson at the Battle
of the Nile, and the clothing he wore when he was mortally
wounded at Trafalgar. I went up the hill to the
Observatory, and walked through an open door to the
grounds where a gentleman informed me that visitors
are not admitted without a pass; but he kindly gave
me some information and told me that I was standing
on the prime meridian. On the outside of the
enclosure are scales of linear measure up to one yard,
and a large clock.
After the trip to Greenwich, I went
over the London Bridge, passed the fire monument,
and came back across the Thames by the Tower Bridge,
a peculiar structure, having two levels in one span,
so passengers can go up the stairs in one of the towers,
cross the upper level, and go down the other stairs
when the lower level is opened for boats to pass up
and down the river. While in Scotland, I twice
crossed the great Forth Bridge, which is more than
a mile and a half long and was erected at a cost of
above fifteen millions of dollars. There are ten
spans in the south approach, eight in the north approach,
and two central spans each seventeen hundred feet
long. The loftiest part of the structure is three
hundred and sixty-one feet above high-water mark.
The Albert Memorial is perhaps the
finest monument seen on the whole trip. The Victoria
and Albert Museum contains the original Singer sewing-machine,
and a printing-press supposed to have been used by
Benjamin Franklin, and many other interesting things.
The Natural History Museum also contains much to attract
the visitor’s attention. Here I saw the
skeleton of a mastodon about ten feet tall and twenty
feet long; also the tusks of an extinct species of
Indian elephant, which were nine feet and nine inches
long. There is also an elephant tusk on exhibition
ten feet long and weighing two hundred and eighty
pounds.
Madam Tussaud’s exhibition of
wax figures and relics is both interesting and instructive,
and well repays one for the time and expense of a
visit. Several American Presidents are represented
in life-size figures, along with Kings and others
who have been prominent in the affairs of men.
In the Napoleon room are three of the great warrior’s
carriages, the one used at Waterloo being in the number.
London Tower is a series of strong buildings, which
have in turn served as a fortress, a palace, and a
prison. I saw the site of Anne Boleyn’s
execution, but that which had the most interest for
me was the room containing the crown jewels.
They are kept in a glass case ten or twelve feet in
diameter, in a small, circular room. Outside
of the case there is an iron cage surrounded by a
network of wire. The King’s crown is at
the top of the collection, which contains other crowns,
scepters, swords, and different costly articles.
This crown, which was first made in 1838 for Queen
Victoria, was enlarged for Edward, the present King.
It contains two thousand eight hundred and eighteen
diamonds, two hundred and ninety-seven pearls, and
many other jewels. One of the scepters is supposed
to contain a part of the cross of Christ, but the supposition
had no weight with me. One of the attendants told
me the value of the whole collection was estimated
at four million pounds, and that it would probably
bring five times that much if sold at auction.
As the English pound is worth about four dollars and
eighty-seven cents, this little room contains a vast
treasure worth upwards of a hundred million
dollars.
I will only mention Nelson’s
monument in Trafalgar Square, the Parliament Buildings,
St. Paul’s Cathedral, Kew Gardens, Hampton Court
Palace, and the Zoological Gardens. I also visited
the Bank of England, which “stands on ground
valued at two hundred and fifty dollars per square
foot. If the bank should ever find itself pressed
for money, it could sell its site for thirty-two million
seven hundred and seventy thousand dollars.”
It is a low building that is not noted for its beauty.
If it were located in New York, probably one of the
tall buildings characteristic of that city would be
erected on the site.
The British Museum occupied my time
for hours, and I shall not undertake to give a catalogue
of the things I saw there, but will mention a few of
them. There are manuscripts of early writers in
the English tongue, including a copy of Beowulf, the
oldest poem in the language; autograph works of Daniel
De Foe, Ben Jonson, and others; the original articles
of agreement between John Milton and Samuel Symmons
relating to the sale of the copyright of “a
poem entitled ‘Paradise Lost.’” There
was a small stone inscribed in Phoenician, with the
name of Nehemiah, the son of Macaiah, and pieces of
rock that were brought from the great temple of Diana
at Ephesus; a fragment of the Koran; objects illustrating
Buddhism in India; books printed by William Caxton,
who printed the first book in English; and Greek vases
dating back to 600 B.C. In the first verse of
the twentieth chapter of Isaiah we have mention of
“Sargon, the king of Assyria.” For
centuries this was all the history the world had of
this king, who reigned more than seven hundred years
before Christ. Within recent times his history
has been dug up in making excavations in the east,
and I saw one of his inscribed bricks and two very
large, human-headed, winged bulls from a doorway of
his palace.
The carvings from the palace of Sennacherib,
tablets from the library of Asur-Banipal, and brick
of Ur-Gur, king of Ur about twenty-five centuries
before Christ, attracted my attention, as did also
the colossal left arm of a statue of Thotmes III.,
which measures about nine feet. The Rosetta stone,
by which the Egyptian hieroglyphics were translated,
and hundreds of other objects were seen. In the
mummy-room are embalmed bodies, skeletons, and coffins
that were many centuries old when Jesus came to earth,
some of them bearing dates as early as 2600 B.C.,
and in the case of a part of a body found in the third
pyramid the date attached is 3633 B.C. Being weary,
I sat down, and my note book contains this entry:
“1:45 P.M., August 20. Resting here in
the midst of mummies and sarcophagi thousands
of years old.”
From the top of the Monument I took
a bird’s-eye view of the largest of all earthly
cities, or at least I looked as far as the smoky atmosphere
would permit, and then returned to my stopping place
at Twynholm. As I rode back on the top of an
omnibus, the houses of one of the Rothschild family
and the Duke of Wellington were pointed out. My
sight-seeing in Scotland and England was now at an
end, and the journey so far had been very enjoyable
and highly profitable. I packed up and went down
to Harwich, on the English Channel, where I embarked
on the Cambridge for Antwerp, in Belgium. In
this chapter I have purposely omitted reference to
my association with the churches, as that will come
up for consideration in another chapter.