Despite the traditional belief that
a decollete corsage is a tyrannous necessity of evening
dress, a woman not graciously endowed with a beautifully
modelled throat and shoulders may, with perfect propriety,
conceal her infelicitous lines from the derisive gaze
of a critical public.
Women are indebted to that gentle
genius, La Duse, for the suggestion that a veiled
throat and bust may charmingly fulfil the requirements
of evening dress, and also satisfy that sense of delicacy
peculiar to some women who have not inherited from
their great-great-grandmothers the certain knowledge
that a low-necked gown is absolutely decorous.
The women who does not possess delicate
personal charms commends herself to the beauty-loving
by forbearing to expose her physical deficiencies.
Unless it is because they are enslaved by custom, it
is quite incomprehensible why some women will glaringly
display gaunt proportions that signally lack the exquisite
lines of firm and solid flesh.
A throat like a ten-stringed instrument,
surmounting square shoulders that end in knobs that
obtrude above unfilled hollows, is an unpleasing vision
that looms up conspicuously too often in opera-box
and drawing-room.
The unattractive exhibition, is
a familiar sight in the social world. How insufferably
ugly such uncovered anatomy appears in the scenery
of a rich and dainty music-room may be readily imagined
by those who have been spared the unpleasing display.
It is so obvious that shoulders like these should
always be covered that it seems superfluous to remark
that this type should never wear any sleeve that falls
below the shoulder-line.
The sleeve falling off the shoulder
was invented for the classic contour. Nor ribbons, nor lace, nor jewel are
needed to enhance the perfect beauty of a fine, slender,
white throat, and the felicitous curves of sloping
shoulders.
One whose individual endowments are
as meagre may improve
her defects by adopting either style of corsage.
A woman’s throat may lack a
certain desirable roundness, and her shoulders may
recede in awkward lines, and yet between these defective
features the curves may have a not unpleasing daintiness
and delicacy in modelling that can be advantageously
revealed. A modish velvet throat-band, is one of the most graceful conceits
of fashion. The too slim throat encircled by velvet
or ornamented with a jewelled buckle or brooch is
effectively framed. The unsightly lines of the
shoulders are covered, and just enough individual
robustness is disclosed to suggest with becoming propriety
the conventional decollete corsage. The Princess
of Wales is as constant to her velvet or pearl neck-band,
as to her especial style of coiffure. Her throat,
in evening dress, never appears unadorned by one or
the other of these beautiful bands that so cleverly
conceal defects and seem to bring out more richly
the texture and coloring of handsome bare shoulders.
Those who do not approve of the decollete
style of dress, or whose ungraceful proportions might
well be entirely concealed, can wear with appropriateness
and benefit the corsage. This
has much in its favor for a slender body. The
upper part of the waist may be made of chiffon or
crepe, which is beautifully one might say
benignly translucent. It has an insinuating
transparency that neither reveals nor conceals too
much. The neck-band of velvet or satin, full
and soft, apparently enlarges the throat. The
sleeves may be in whatever style in cut prevails.
This costume carries perfectly into effect the requirements
of evening dress, and may be worn with equal fitness
to formal functions or to informal affairs. A
coat-sleeve of lace, crepe, or chiffon, beflounced
at the wrist, may be inserted under the short satin
sleeves when the occasion does not require gloves.
The soft, white setting of thin textures around the
throat and shoulders clears the complexion and brings
into relief the pretty, delicate lines of a refined
face.
It is plain to be seen that the unattractive
specimen of femininity, with the long, wrinkled
neck and sharply lined face is unbecomingly costumed
in the V-shaped basque and corsage which apparently
elongate her natural lankness. A charming and
always fashionable yoke-effect that she can wear to
advantage. This style of corsage
is equally effective for a too thin or a too muscular
neck. The filling is of tulle.
A square-cut corsage is most becoming
to the woman whose narrow shoulders have a consumptive
droop. The angular cut apparently heightens the
shoulders and decreases their too steeple-like inclination.
The round cut, if it frames a full throat, is also
an effective style for sloping shoulders. The
V-shaped cut is most becoming to the short-necked
woman, whose aim should be to increase the length of
her throat.
It is not only the too thin neck that
needs to be clothed with discrimination. Throats
and shoulders that are too robust are improved by
being covered. The arms and shoulders, however,
are often the chief beauty of a fleshy woman, and
it is to her advantage to give them as effective a
setting as possible.
The stout
woman apparently increases her breadth by wearing
a flamboyant corsage, and she hides the most exquisite
lines of her arm with her sleeves.
The princesse style of gown, gives her apparent length of waist. The modest
lace flounce that falls in vertical folds decreases
her formidable corsage. The knotted twist of silk
reveals the full beauty of her arm.
In dressing the throat there are a
few rules to be remembered. A too long, stem-like
neck may be apparently shortened by a standing ruff
or a full, soft band of velvet. The tight, plain
band of velvet should never be worn by a woman with
a very slim neck.
The plain, military collar emphasizes
the thinness of the slender woman’s throat;
but the soft crushed fold of velvet apparently enlarges
the pipe-like proportions of the thin woman’s
neck. The tight-fitting
collar should not be worn by the corpulent woman with
a thick neck.
The thickness of the throat of the
woman may seem due to the folds
of the velvet, which give a pleasing hint of a slender
throat, a delusion not to be despised by the woman
burdened with flesh.
All the sisterhood, stout,
thin, long-throated, or short, should know
the hour when the withering touch of age begins to
shrink the soft, round curves distinctive of the full,
sweet throat of healthful youth. No regretful
vanity should be allowed to glamour their eyes to the
fact that Time has them by the throat, to put it melodramatically.
The wise woman will not please herself with a fatal
delusion. She will realize it is illusion she
needs-yards of it lace or velvet, or any
beautifying texture that will conceal the deadly lines
of age.