LONDON TO THE SOUTH DOWNS THE WEALD
The writer of the preceding chapters
has often been tempted to trespass outside the limits
imposed upon him, and penetrate the woody fastnesses
of the Weald. In this separate section a short
description will be given of some of the most characteristic
scenes and interesting towns and villages between
London and the coast.
A certain proportion of the pleasure
of a holiday is, or should be, obtained on the journey
toward the goal. This is, of course, much more
the case where road rather than rail is taken, and
most of the routes to the south run through a lovely
and varied countryside which will repay a leisurely
mode of progression. To the writer there is no
way of seeing England equal to doing that on foot;
however, it would be unreasonable to expect every
one to adopt this mode of travelling even if they
were able, and these notes can easily be followed by
motorist or cyclist without undue loss of time.
LONDON TO LEWES BY WESTERHAM AND MARESFIELD
This road keeps within Kent until
the boundary of Sussex is reached, and runs via Catford
Bromley and Keston, climbing gradually to Westerham
Hill, after which there is a steep and dangerous descent
to the small town of Westerham (23 miles) pleasantly
situated between the North Downs and the sandy hills
of the Surrey Weald. It is famous as the birthplace
of Wolfe, whose statue adorns the green, around which
is grouped the quietly dignified assemblage of inns,
shops and houses that are typical of this part of
Kent. The large and finely situated church also
has a memorial to the local hero, who was born in the
vicarage here and buried at Greenwich.
The road continues through pleasant
country over Crockham Hill to Edenbridge (28 m.) on
the small river Eden. Although the immediate
surroundings are dull and featureless this is a good
centre from which to explore the district eastwards
to Hever, Penshurst, and Tonbridge. One mile
out of the town we bear left and, in another three,
cross the Kent Water into Sussex. In 7-1/2 miles
the road passes over the Medway to Hartfield (33-1/2
m.) on the edge of Ashdown Forest. The Early
English church has a lych-gate dating from 1520.
Inside may be seen three piscinas, one in an
uncommon position near the south door.
[A long mile east is Withyam, with a
Perpendicular church famous for its monuments
of the Dorset family. Only a gateway remains of
the ancient Buckhurst mansion, the greater part
of the materials going to the erection of Sackville
college at East Grinstead.]
From Hartfield we climb steadily towards
the centre of the Forest with occasional wide views
between the close woods which line the northern slopes.
[Before reaching Camp Hill and near
the summit, a path leads left to Crowborough,
which of late years has become suburban and a second
Haslemere. The Beacon commands wide views, but
the immediate surroundings have been spoilt.]
We now drop towards Maresfield with
grand forward views over the Weald to the South Downs.
Maresfield (41 m.) has a small Decorated
church with a Norman window in the nave. Note
the ancient woodwork and restored oak porch, also two
stoups, one within and the other outside the church.
This was once an important “Black Country”
centre. Local names, such as “The Forge”
perpetuate the memory of this strange period in the
history of Sussex, which was at its busiest about
1680, the last furnace being quenched in 1828.
“It is a strange thing to remember,
when one is standing on the cold desolate hills about
Crowborough Beacon, or in the glens of the Tilgate
Forest now the very picture of quiet, and
rest, and loneliness that this same Sussex
was once the iron mart of England. Once, spotted
over these hills and through these forests, there
were forges that roared from morning till night, chimneys
that sent up their smoke and their poisonous vapour
from one year’s end to another; cannon were cast
... where now there is no harsher voice than the tap
of the woodpecker.... One cannot fancy the forests
of St. Leonards and Ashdown, the Wolverhampton of
their age. But so it was; and not the least remarkable
thing ... is the absence of traditions about the life
and customs of the manufacturers so employed.”
(Lower.)
[From Maresfield a round of about thirty
miles could be made through the beautiful East
Sussex Weald, rejoining the main road at Uckfield.
In two miles is Buxted, which has an interesting Early
English church standing high amidst woods. In
the Decorated chancel is the brass of Britellus
Avenel (1408) and J. de Lewes (1330), by whom
the church was founded. Note the old muniment
chest in the north aisle and the mortuary chapel
of the Earls of Liverpool south of the chancel.
Not far from the church is “Hog House,”
note the hog carved over the door and dated 1581.
The Hogge family, ironmasters, once lived here.
In 1543 was cast the first iron cannon made in
this country.
“Master
Huggett and his man John,
They did
cast the first cannon.”
Not far away is the one time cell of
a hermit, carved out of the rock, and named “The
Vineyard.” The road now winds through a
remote country, which once resounded with the clangour
of the forge, to Hadlow Down and Butcher’s
Cross and in seven miles reaches Mayfield.
The village street is according to Coventry Patmore
the “sweetest in Sussex.” The half-timbered
“Middle House” nearly opposite the
church is the best example of this style of architecture
in the south, it is dated 1575. Lower House was
built about 1625. The fine Perpendicular church
is on the site of the traditional building erected
by St. Dunstan. This was made of wood, and
the Saint, finding that the orientation was not quite
true, set his shoulder to the wall and pushed it straight!
The visitor will note the fine effect of the raised
chancel, the roof of which is composed of a one
time gallery. Note, among other objects,
the old screen and choir stalls; a squint; font dated
1666; iron slabs in the nave to the Sands (1668 and
1708); monument to T. Aynscombe (1620); chandeliers;
and curious east window; and, not least, the glorious
view from the churchyard. The Palace of the
Archbishops is now a convent: it was restored
by Pugin after being in a state of ruin for many
years. Certain portions may be seen at uncertain
times. In the ancient dining-room are preserved
the hammer, tongs and anvil of St. Dunstan.
The Saint’s well is in the garden. It was
hereabouts that St. Dunstan had his great tussle
with the Devil, holding the fiend by the nose
with his tongs; eventually the Evil One wrenched
himself free; making an eight mile leap he cooled his
nose in a pool of water, giving it for ever “a
flavour of warm flat irons” and making the
fortune of the future Tunbridge Wells. Mayfield
has another claim to a niche in history, not a quaint
old tale like the above but a sombre fact:
“Next followed four, which suffered
at Mayfield, in Sussex, the twenty-fourth of September
1556, of whose names we find two recorded, and
the other two we yet know not, and therefore, according
to our register, hereunder they be specified, as we
find them: John Hart, Thomas Ravendale, a
shoemaker and a carrier, which said four being
at the place where they should suffer, after they
had made their prayers, and were at the stake ready
to abide the force of the fire, they constantly and
joyfully yielded their lives for the testimony
of the glorious Gospel of Jesus Christ.”
(Foxe.)
The scenery hereabouts is distinctly
of Devonian character. Rich and varied views
reward the leisurely traveller who will make a side
excursion to Rotherfield, passing, halfway the conical
Argos Hill crowned with a windmill. The village,
though not so interesting as Mayfield, is well
placed and has a fine Perpendicular church, the
spire being a landmark for many miles. Here
is an east window by Burne Jones and several other
good examples of modern stained glass which make
fine splashes of colour in the old building.
A quaint saying in reference to the handsome presence
of the Rotherfield women is that they have an “extra
pair of ribs.”
The beautiful district between here
and Tunbridge Wells deserves a chapter to itself.
Frant Wadhurst and Ticehurst belong more naturally
to West Kent than East Sussex. These three beautiful
villages and the glorious Eridge Park could be
combined in this excursion by the traveller who
has unlimited time.
We may now follow the valley of the
Rother through scenery of much quiet beauty to
Burwash, 6-1/2 miles from Mayfield. Here is an
old church with a (possibly) Saxon tower and an interesting
iron slab inscribed “Orate p Annima Johne
Colins,” probably the oldest piece of local
ironwork in existence. The outline of the village
is eminently satisfying to the artist, especially the
house called “Rampyndens.” Burwash
is connected with the Rev. J. Cocker Egerton,
to whom reference has already been made. From
the natives of this particular district was gleaned
that record of rustic humour which makes the Sussex
peasant depicted in his writings so real to those
who know him. The village has lately become
the home of Rudyard Kipling, who lives at “Batemans,”
a beautiful old house in an adjacent valley surrounded
by wooded hills. “Puck of Pooks Hill”
is said to have been inspired by the locality.
Brightling Beacon, three miles farther, commands the
finest prospect of the western Weald, the immediate
foreground being of great beauty. Brightling
church should also be seen.
A return could now be made by way of
Heathfield, from Brightling, passing Cade Street.
Here a monument commemorates the death of Jack
Cade, who was shot by an arrow discharged by Alexander
Iden, Sheriff of Kent, in 1450. Cade had
been hiding at Newick Farm; gaining confidence
he came out for a game of bowls and met his end
while playing. Heathfield old village and
church are off the main road to the left; our
route passes the railway station and runs westwards
to Cross-in-Hand and Blackboys; this road is a succession
of lovely views throughout the seven miles to Framfield,
where there is a Tudor church. A short two
miles more brings us to our main route at Uckfield.]
Uckfield (43-1/2 m.) old church was
pulled down in the early nineteenth century, and its
successor is of no interest. An old stone house
in front of the “King’s Head” was
once the village lock-up. A picturesque outcrop
of the Hastings sandstone around a small lake forms
a beauty spot of local fame: it is within the
demesne of “The Rocks” on the west of
the town.
[An alternative route to Lewes
could be taken from Uckfield
through the best part of the
Ouse valley; nearly half-way and on
the right is Isfield ("Eyefield"),
the church is interesting.]
The road now bears south-east to High
Cross and then by Halland to East Hoathly (48-1/4
m.). The church here has the Pelham buckle as
a dripstone. Note the Norman piscina. In
five miles the little hamlet of Horsebridge is reached.
We are now in the Cuckmere valley.
[One mile short of this a round of four
miles could be made via The Dicker to Mickleham
Priory and Hailsham. The Priory is now a farmhouse;
the position of the chapel is shown by some arches
built into the wall. The interior has a fine
cowled fireplace and Early English crypt.
The gatehouse is the only complete portion of
the Priory buildings. Permission must be obtained
to view the interior.]
The Eastbourne road crosses the Cuckmere
and turns sharp to the right before reaching the railway.
Hailsham (55-1/2 m.). The fine
pinnacled tower of the church shows up well above
the roofs of the old market town, which, however, has
little to show the visitor and is not particularly
picturesque. The immediate surroundings of the
road are tame until we enter the woodlands, which
surround the route almost to Polegate (58-1/2 m.).
We now have fine views of the Downs on our right front
though Willingdon to Eastbourne (63 m.).
LONDON TO SEAFORD BY EAST GRINSTEAD AND LEWES
This route follows the Brighton road
through Croydon to Purley (12-1/2 m.). Here we
bear south-east and follow the Eastbourne road through
suburban but pleasant Kenley and Whyteleafe to Caterham
(17-1/2 m.). The North Downs are crossed between
Gravelly hill (Water Tower) and Marden Castle, followed
by a long descent to Godstone (20 m.), built around
a charming green with a fine old inn ("Clayton Arms”)
on the left. A lane at the side of the inn leads
to the interesting church and almshouses. The
direct road onwards, runs over Tilburstow Hill (500
feet), but the better route bears left and passes Godstone
station, rejoining the old road at Springfield (23
m.).
[At Blindley Heath a road bears left
to Lingfield, a pretty village with an interesting
church, once collegiate. Note misererie seats
and choir screen (fifteenth century). Tombs of
the 1st, 2nd and 3rd Lord Cobhams and other interesting
tombs and brasses.]
At Fellbridge, just past the Horley
road, we enter Sussex and, after a short rise and
fall, arrive at East Grinstead (30 m.). This is
one of the pleasantest towns of the Weald, with many
old houses here and there in the High Street.
The church, though of imposing appearance from a distance,
is, on closer acquaintance, disappointing; the fabric
dating from 1790. Note an iron tomb slab (1570).
Not far from the church is the Jacobean Sackville
College. Here the celebrated Father Neale was
warden for twenty-five years. (In barely two miles
from the centre of the town a lane leads over the
railway to the right in 1/3 mile to the picturesque
ruins of Brambletye.)
Forest Row (33 m.), on the river Medway.
The road now climbs steadily between woods to Wych
Cross (35 m.). Grand views south and west.
This is one of the finest passes over the Forest Ridge
and the peculiar characteristics of the Hastings sands
are here seen to the best advantage. These high
sandy moors, covered with glorious stretches of bracken
and heather, here and there clothed in dense growths
of oak and beech, with occasional distinctive clumps
of Scots fir and beneath all a thick tangle of bramble,
a perfect sanctuary of wild life, are more reminiscent
of Radnor or Galloway than of the south country.
The right-hand road is taken at the
fork and there follows a long coast down to Danehill,
where the Lewes road bears left to Sheffield Green
(40 m.).
[A road to the left would bring us in
2 miles to Fletching, where the forces of Simon
de Montfort started on their march to Mount Harry
and subsequent victory of Lewes. The village is
the centre of a delightful neighbourhood and is
delightful in itself, not only for the charm of
its surroundings, but for its quaint and attractive
architecture of the humbler sort. The Early English
church has been well restored and beautified by
the Earl of Sheffield, whose estate lies to the
west. Gibbon the historian lies in the Sheffield
mausoleum. Note the old glass in the small lancet
windows; this was buried in the churchyard during some
forgotten trouble and discovered and replaced during
the restoration. Several old helmets and
gauntlets with the crest of the Nevill’s
are hung in the north transept. A small brass
should be noticed; the inscription refers to a
local worthy, P. Devot, who took part in the Cade
rebellion.]
Sheffield Park on the left is full
of fine timber; at the end we cross the Ouse and the
railway and keep straight forward to Chailey (43-1/2
m.) with occasional views ahead of the Lewes Downs.
Passing Chailey potteries on the left the road calls
for no comment until we pass Cooksbridge station and
draw near the Downs.
Offham (48 m.). Lewes (50 m.).
There is a choice of routes to Seaford; that passing
Southease (54 m.) enters Newhaven and crosses the Ouse
there. The alternative road crosses the river
in Lewes, runs under Mount Caburn and going through
Beddingham (51-1/4 m.) bears right.
South Heighton (55-1/2 m.).
Seaford (59 m.).
THE BRIGHTON ROAD
This classic fifty-two miles, the
scene of many records in coaching, running, cycling
and walking, is the shortest way from London to the
sea, but not by any means the most interesting either
for the lover of nature or the tourist of an antiquarian
turn. Distances are reckoned from Westminster
Bridge ("Big Ben"). After Kennington comes a two-mile
ascent from Brixton to Streatham and then a fairly
level stretch to Croydon (10 m.), Whitgift Hospital
(1596), Archbishop’s Palace, fine rebuilt church.
We now enter the chalk country and pass through suburban
Purley to Merstham (18 m.).
[Reigate (2 m. right).
Large Perpendicular church. The town is
pleasant and picturesque but
rapidly becoming suburban.]
The road drops between spurs of the
North Downs to Redhill (20 m.); a busy railway junction.
Thence over Earlswood Common.
Horley (24-3/4 m.). Interesting
church; note yews in churchyard. Lowfield Heath.
Three miles from Horley we pass into Sussex and shortly
reach Crawley (29-1/4 m.). Decorated church.
Note the quaint lines on one of the roof beams.
Mark Lemon lived at Vine Cottage in the village.
[The tiny village of Worth, south of
the East Grinstead road and nearly 3 miles from
Crawley, should be visited for the sake of its
unique Saxon church, the only one remaining which is
complete in its ground plan. Notice the typical
band of stones supported by pillars which runs
round the building; also the curious double font;
pulpit dated 1577 and ancient lych-gate. On the
north side of the church is a “Devil’s
Door.” The exorcized spirit passed out
this way at the sacrament of Baptism.]
We now enter the forest zone.
Note the fine retrospect when approaching Pease Pottage
(31-1/4 m.).
[On the left is Tilgate Forest, which
is continued by Worth Forest, whence many lovely
and lonely paths lead to Horstead Keynes and West
Hoathly, whose church has a land-mark spire visible
for many miles. Underneath the tower will be seen
two iron grave slabs. Within the church notice
the Geometrical windows and the triple sedilia.
The village is picturesque and well placed, and
the local “lion” “Great
upon little,” an effect of denudation, is
well known. The village is much nearer the Seaford
road at Wych Cross, but from the present route we have
the advantage of seven miles of woodland otherwise
unexplored.
On the right from Pease Pottage, in
the recesses of St. Leonard’s Forest, and
two miles from the main route, is Holmbush Beacon
Tower. This should be visited for the sake
of the magnificent woodland views; in the distance
are the south Downs visible from Butser Hill behind
Portsmouth to the hills surrounding Lewes. Hindhead,
Blackdown, Leith Hill, the North Downs and the Hampshire
Heights are all visible on a clear day.
We are here in a remote district, the
haunt of legend and folk-lore almost unequalled
in the south. Here St. Leonard put an end
to the career of a fierce and fiery dragon, but not
before the saint was grievously wounded, and where
his blood fell now grow the lilies of the valley,
common here but nowhere else in the neighbourhood.
Headless horsemen, who have an unpleasant habit
of sharing the benighted traveller’s steed; witches
and warlocks; white-ladies and were-wolves are
in great plenty, and the normal inhabitants of
the forest must have a fervent appreciation of
the high noon and the hours of daylight.]
The two miles south of Pease Pottage
are the highest on the road culminating at Handcross,
504 feet (33-1/2 m.). The road now descends the
steep and dangerous Handcross Hill.
[At the foot of the hill,
half mile right, is Slaugham ("Slaffam”)
with a Decorated church, old
font and brasses.]
Bolney Common (37-1/2 m.) in lovely
surroundings. The church has early Norman, or
as some authorities declare, Saxon features. The
Norman south door, covered by a wooden porch dating
from the eighteenth century, should be noticed.
[Cuckfield ("Cookfield”) 3 miles
left, amidst beautiful scenery, with a fine Early
English church commanding a glorious view. Note
monuments and handsome reredos. Cuckfield
Place is the original of “Rookwood,”
but has been “improved” out of its ancient
character. The Jacobean gate house still stands
unrestored at the end of the avenue. Close
by is Leigh Pond, a fine sheet of water.]
Albourne Green (42 m.), for Hurstpierpoint
(1 m.), beautiful views of the South Downs which we
now ascend to Pyecombe (45-1/2 m.).
Preston (49-1/2 m.).
Brighton (front 51-1/2 m.).
THE HORSHAM ROAD
At Kennington Church we leave the
Brighton Way and pass Clapham Common, Tooting and
Merton to Cheam (11-1/4 m.) Ewell and Epsom (14-1/2
m.) The Downs and Race-course are up to the left.
Ashtead.
Leatherhead (18-1/2 m.). This
little town has some picturesque streets, but is rapidly
becoming suburban. The Perpendicular church contains
interesting windows. The scenery now greatly improves
and becomes beautiful after passing Mickleham, a pretty
village with a Transitional church.
Norbury Park, on the right, is one
of the most charming places in Surrey. Box Hill
(590 feet), which may easily be ascended from the
well-placed Burford Bridge Hotel, is on the left.
The road, river and rail run through a deep cleft
in the North Downs forming the Mole valley and facing
the sandstone hills of the Weald. In the shallow
depression between the two ranges lies Dorking (23-1/4
m.). The town is pleasant but has nothing of
much interest for the visitor. It is for its
fine situation from a scenic point of view and as a
convenient headquarters from which to explore the
best of Surrey that it will be appreciated. The
rebuilt parish church is imposing and stands on the
site of the ancient Roman Stane Street. We leave
the town by South Street and proceed to Holmwood,
from which Leith Hill may be visited, though there
are more direct and much finer routes from Dorking.
Capel (28-3/4 m.). We are now
in quiet wealden scenery and there is nothing of special
interest until we cross the Sussex boundary, about
half a mile beyond the railway bridge. Kingsfold
(31-1/2 m.). We now bear left and again 1-1/2
miles farther by Warnham Pond, with memories of Shelley.
Horsham (36 m.). This prosperous
and pleasant county centre makes a good halting place.
The Early English and Perpendicular church is worth
a visit, although practically rebuilt in the middle
of the last century. The fine proportions and
spacious and lofty interior will at once strike the
visitor. Notice the altar tomb of Thomas de Braose
(1396), Lord Hoo (1455), Eliz. Delves (1645),
and a brass of Thomas Clerke (1411). Also the
ancient font. The old “Causeway,”
which leads to the church from Carfax, as the centre
of the town is called, should be more popular with
artists than it is. The wonderful colour of some
of the Horsham roofs will be noticed; this is due to
the local stone with which the older roofs are covered.
It seems a pity from an aesthetic point of view that
the quarries are no longer used. The great weight
of the covering had another advantage, it made for
sturdy building and honest workmanship. Horsham
no longer has the artificial importance of returning
members to Parliament (at one time, two; and as lately
as 1885 one), but is now merged in the western division
of Sussex, of which district it shares with Midhurst
the position of chief agricultural and commercial
centre. The town is also becoming residential
as East Grinstead, on the other side of the county,
has already done.
THE SHOREHAM ROAD
The high road from Horsham skirts
Dene Park, which is quite open and commands fine views
of the town and the surrounding Weald. To the
right may be discerned the buildings of Christ’s
Hospital and Southwater Station (38-1/2 m.).
Burrell Arms (41-1/2 m.). A halt
must be made to view the scanty remains of Knepp Castle,
a one time stronghold of the de Braose family.
Close by is a beautiful lake, the largest sheet of
water in the south of England. The road now bears
south-east. To the right and close to the Adur
is West Grinstead. The church, partly Norman,
should be seen. Note the two naves. The
old oak seats bear the names of the farms to whose
occupants they have from time immemorial belonged.
Behind the altar of the north nave is an aumbry, and
in the roof above is a cover once used for suspending
the canopy over the Host. There are several interesting
monuments including two altar tombs in the Burrell
chantry with fine fifteenth century brasses.
Note the font, an old stone coffin, foliated lancets,
fragments of old stained glass and some remains of
ancient frescoes. The rectory is a good specimen
of Elizabethan building. West Grinstead House,
once the home of the Carylls, friends of Pope, “This
verse to Caryl, Muse, is due,” Rape of the
Lock. The poem is said to have been written
under the shade of “Pope’s Oak”
in the park.
[Cowfold, 3 miles east, is chiefly remarkable
for the Carthusian Monastery dedicated to St.
Hugh. Its spire is a landmark for many miles.
This has been the home of exiled French monks since
1877. Visitors are very courteously shown
over the greater part of the building, which is
of much interest and contains several venerated relics
brought from the monastery of the Grand Chartreuse.
The magnificent brass to Nelond, Prior of Lewes,
in the parish church should also be seen.]
We now continue south-east and cross
the railway to Shoreham. The tall spire seen
on the left is St. Hugh’s Monastery (above).
Partridge Green station (44-1/4 m.), Ashurst (46-1/4
m.), with an Early English church. At the top
of every rise we are rewarded with glorious views of
the Downs crowned by Chanctonbury Ring.
Steyning (49-1/4 m.).
Bramber (50-1/4 m.).
New Shoreham (54-1/4 m.).
THE WORTHING ROAD
As above to the Burrell Arms.
The route runs south and then south-west to Dial Post
(43-1/4 m.), and so with striking views ahead through
Ashington (46-1/4 m.) to Washington (48-1/4 m.).
Findon (51 m.).
Broadwater (54-1/4 m.).
Worthing (55-1/2 m.).
THE ARUNDEL CHICHESTER ROAD
This route leaves the Horsham road
nearly two miles south of the village of Kingsfold.
Warnham (33-1/4 m.). The district
is the scene of Shelley’s childhood and youth.
The poet was born at Field Place, about 1-1/2 miles
south on the right of the road.
Broadbridge Heath (35-1/4 m.).
Five Oaks (39 m.). We now join the Roman “Stane
Street” from London
Bridge to Chichester.
Billingshurst (40-3/4 m.). Norman
and Perpendicular church. Note fine oak panelled
ceiling.
[Across the Adur valley, 2-1/2 miles
west is the interesting church at Wisborough Green.
The situation is delightful and the antiquarian
interest more than ordinary. Kemble identifies
the mound on which the church is built as being
the site of a temple dedicated to Woden (Wisc
or “Wish"). Restoration brought to light
early Norman (perhaps Saxon) remains in this late
Norman church. The chancel is Early English.
Notice the tower walls inside. There are
some ancient frescoes, a stoup, and other interesting
details.]
Adversane (42-3/4 m.).
Pulborough (46 m.).
Bury (50-3/4 m.).
Arundel (55-1/4 m.).
To Chichester at 1-3/4 m. past Bury turn S.W.
Balls Hut Inn (56-1/2 m.).
Chichester (62 m.).
THE CHICHESTER ROAD VIA GUILDFORD AND MIDHURST
This route follows the Portsmouth
Road from Westminster through Wandsworth and over
Putney Heath to Kingston (12 m.). Here we bear
left past the King’s stone and then by way of
the river bank through Thames Ditton to Esher (16
m.), then by the famous “Ripley Road” over
Fairmile Common and through Street Cobham (19-1/2
m.).
Ripley (23-3/4 m.).
Guildford (29-3/4 m.). A prosperous
and good-looking old town in danger of becoming smug
and suburban; the steep and picturesque High Street,
however, keeps its old time amenities. The ruins
of the castle keep may be seen south of the High Street.
Abbott’s Hospital (1619), the Guildhall with
projecting clock (1683); St. Mary’s church, Norman
and Early English. Note paintings in north chapel.
St. Nicholas’ Church has been mostly rebuilt.
Our road turns left just beyond the Wey bridge and
passes under the ruins of St. Catherine’s Chapel
on the left. At Shalford (30-3/4 m.), bear right
to Godalming (34-1/4 m.) in the centre of a lovely
country. Here is a large cruciform church, Norman
and Early English, with interesting brasses and pulpit.
Milford (35 m.). A long rise
follows to Brookstreet (39-1/4 m.) and a dangerous
drop just beyond. Haslemere (43 m.). Although
the scenery is very beautiful on all sides of this
once remote hamlet, the late nineteenth century saw
a colonization of the slopes of Hindhead, with the
attendant outbreak of red brick, which has almost completely
spoilt the neighbourhood. Branch excursions may
be made towards the Hampshire border and to Chiddingfold
country. We cross the Sussex boundary one mile
south of the town and are immediately in the lonely
and very lovely Blackdown country. A climb follows
to Kingsley Marsh and a steep descent to Fernhurst
(46-1/4 m.).
[Blackdown, the highest point in Sussex
(918 feet) can be easily reached from here, the
distance is about two miles in each direction
with woodland most of the way. The view from the
summit is magnificent in every direction.
Aldworth, where Tennyson died, is on a spur of
the hill slightly east of north.]
Henley (48-1/2 m.). A picturesque
hamlet below the road commanding magnificent views
of Blackdown. A steep descent, then a road through
lovely woodlands brings us to Midhurst (51 m.).
Cocking (54 m.). Steep hills.
West Dean (57-1/2 m.).
Chichester (63 m.).
RAILWAY ROUTES :-
LONDON TO EASTBOURNE BY OXTED AND HEATHFIELD
Only slow trains, with possible change
of carriage, by this route; the Eastbourne expresses
run by Three Bridges and Lewes. After Croydon
the long ascent between the northern slopes of the
Surrey Downs extends to Woldingham Tunnel. Wide
views and retrospect of the Downs. Oxted (20
m.) (church and village right).
Edenbridge (25 m.).
Hever.
Cowden. The line crosses the
Kent water and enters Sussex. Ashurst (Infant
Medway right). Eridge (35-1/2 m.) (a good centre
from which to explore north-east Sussex). Rotherfield.
Mayfield (scenery reminiscent of Devon). Hailsham
(49-3/4 m.) for Hurstmonceux. Polegate. Eastbourne
(57 m.).
LONDON TO SEAFORD BY EAST GRINSTEAD AND LEWES
(To Oxted above.) Lingfield (picturesque
village and well-known racing headquarters.) West
Hoathly (34 m.). (Ashdown Forest left). Horsted
Keynes. Newick. Lewes (50-1/4 m.). Newhaven
(56-1/2 m.). Seaford (59 m.).
LONDON TO BRIGHTON BY REDHILL AND THREE BRIDGES
This is the line of the fast expresses,
and in the summer one of the busiest 50 miles of railway
in the kingdom. Croydon. Purley. Merstham.
Redhill (20-1/2 m.). Express Trains pass to the
left of this station (fine views). Horley.
Gatwick (race-course, right). A long climb over
the Forest Ridge followed by a drop to the Ouse viaduct
(St. Saviour’s College, Ardingley, left).
Hayward’s Heath (37-3/4 m.) (a suburban growth).
Wivelsfield. Burgess Hill (Ditchling Beacon, left
front). Hassocks (43-1/2 m.) (Clayton Tunnel).
Preston Park. Brighton (50-1/2 m.).
LONDON TO SHOREHAM AND WORTHING
Sutton (15 m.) (an outlier of villadom).
Ewell. Epsom (18-1/2 m.). Ashtead.
Leatherhead (22-3/4 m.). The scenery rapidly improves
and before reaching Box Hill Station attains much
beauty. Dorking (26-3/4 m.). Holmwood (31-3/4
m.) (Leith Hill, right, conspicuous by its tower).
Capel. Horsham (40-1/4 m.). Christ’s
Hospital (left). Southwater. West Grinstead
(Chanctonbury Ring, right). Henfield (52-3/4
m.). The Adur valley is followed to Steyning and
Bramber. New Shoreham (60-1/4 m.). Worthing
(64-3/4 m.).
LONDON TO ARUNDEL AND CHICHESTER
(To Horsham above.) Billingshurst
(46 m.). Pulborough (junction for an alternative
route to Chichester via Midhurst). Views (left)
of the long escarpment of the Downs. Villages
on the Arun (right). Amberley Castle (left) and
(exceedingly fine) Arundel Castle (right). Arundel
(59-1/4 m.). Ford. Barnham. Chichester
(70-1/2 m.).