Ravenna has so much that is rare and
precious to show us that few among the many who spend
a day or two within her walls have the inclination
to explore the melancholy marshes in which she stands.
No doubt most of us drive out to S. Apollinare
in Classe , but the road thither does not encourage
a further journey, for it is rude and rough and the
country over which it passes is among the most featureless
in Italy. Nevertheless he does himself a wrong
who leaves Ravenna for good without having spent one
day at any rate in the Pineta which, ruined though
it now be, is still one of the loveliest and most
mysterious places in the Romagna.
But lovely though it is, and full
of memories, what can be said of this vast ruined
forest of stone pines with its mystery of mere and
fen, its coolness and shadow, its astonishing silence?
Only this I think, that if once you find it, nothing
else in Ravenna will seem half so precious as this
green wood. You will love it always and for its
own sake more than anything else in Ravenna, and in
this you will not be alone; every one who has come
to it these thousand years has felt the same, Dante,
Boccaccio, Byron, Carducci, the Pineta knows the footsteps
of them all and they seem to haunt it still.
Dante would seem to have loved it
best in the morning; out of it he conjures his Paradiso
Terrestre in the twenty-eighth canto of the Purgatorio :
“Through that celestial forest,
whose thick shade
With lively greenness the new-springing
day
Attemper’d, eager now to roam, and
search
Its limits round, forthwith I left the
bank;
Along the champain leisurely my way
Pursuing, o’er the ground, that
on all sides
Delicious odour breathed. A pleasant
air
That intermitted never, never veer’d,
Smote on my temples, gently as a wind
Of softest influence, at which the sprays,
Obedient all, lean’d trembling to
that part
Where first the holy mountain casts his
shade,
Yet were not so disordered, but that still
Upon their top the feathered quiristers
Applied their wonted art, and with full
joy
Welcomed those hours of prime, and warbled
shrill
Amid the leaves that to their jocund lays
Kept tenour; even as from branch to branch
Along the piny forests on the shore
Of Chiassi rolls the gathering melody
When Eolus hath from his cavern loosed
The dripping south. Already had my
steps,
Though slow, so far into that ancient
wood
Transported me, I could not ken the place
Where I had entered; when, behold, my
path
Was bounded by a rill which to the left
With little rippling waters bent the grass
That issued from its brink. On earth
no wave
How clear so’er that would not seem
to have
Some mixture in itself, compared with
this
Transpicuous clear; yet darkly on it rolled,
Darkly beneath perpetual gloom, which
ne’er
Admits or sun or moon-light there to shine.”
Well, is not it the very place?
And did not Dante, who knew Italy as few have known
it, do well to remember it when he would describe for
us the Earthly Paradise? In the forest the morning
is sacred to him and there one should turn, with less
misunderstanding than anywhere else, the precious
pages of that poem which is in itself a universe.
But if the clear morning there is
Dante’s, when we may still hear the voice he
heard pass by there, in the stillness, singing, Beati
quorum tecta sunt peccata , the long noon belongs
to Boccaccio, for it is full of the most tragic and
pitiful of his tales.
“Ravenna being a very ancient
City in Romania, there dwelt sometime a great number
of worthy Gentlemen, among whom I am to speake of one
more especially, named Anastasio, descended from the
Family of the Honesti, who by the death of his Father,
and an Unckle of his, was left extraordinarily abounding
in riches, and growing to yeares fitting for marriage,
(as young Gallants are easily apt enough to do) he
became enamored of a very bountifull Gentlewoman, who
was Daughter to Signior Paulo Traversario, one of
the most ancient and noble Families in all the Countrey.
Nor made he any doubt, but by his meanes and industrious
endeavour, to derive affection from her againe; for
he carried himselfe like a brave-minded Gentleman,
liberall in his expences, honest and affable in all
his actions, which commonly are the true notes of
a good nature, and highly to be commended in any man.
But, howsoever Fortune became his enemy, these laudable
parts of manhood did not any way friend him, but rather
appeared hurtfull to himselfe: so cruell, unkind,
and almost meerely savage did she shew her self to
him; perhaps in pride of her singular beauty, or presuming
on her nobility by birth, both which are rather blemishes,
then ornaments in a woman, especially when they be
abused.
“The harsh and uncivill usage
in her, grew very distastefull to Anastasio, and so
unsufferable, that after a long time of fruitlesse
service, requited still with nothing but coy disdaine;
desperate resolutions entred into his brain, and often
he was minded to kill himselfe. But better thoughts
supplanting those furious passions, he abstained from
any such violent act; and governed by more manly consideration,
determined, that as shee hated him, he would requite
her with the like, if he could: wherein he became
altogether deceived, because as his hopes grew to
a dayly decaying, yet his love enlarged it selfe more
and more.
“Thus Anastasio persevering
still in his bootlesse affection, and his expences
not limited within any compasse ; it appeared in
the judgement of his Kindred and Friends, that he
was falne into a mighty consumption, both of his body
and meanes. In which respect, many times they
advised him to leave the City of Ravenna, and live
in some other place for such a while; as might set
a more moderate stint upon his spendings, and bridle
the indiscreete course of his love, the onely fuell
which fed this furious fire.
“Anastasio held out thus a long
time, without lending an eare to such friendly counsell:
but in the end, he was so neerely followed by them,
as being no longer able to deny them, he promised to
accomplish their request. Whereupon, making such
extraordinary preparation, as if he were to set thence
for France or Spaine, or else into some further distant
countrey: he mounted on horsebacke, and accompanied
with some few of his familiar friends, departed from
Ravenna, and rode to a countrey dwelling house of
his owne, about three or foure miles distant from
the Cittie, which was called Chiasso , and there
(upon a very goodly greene) erecting divers Tents
and Pavillions, such as great persons make use of
in the time of a Progresse : he said to his
friends, which came with him thither, that there he
determined to make his abiding, they all returning
backe unto Ravenna, and might come to visite
him againe so often as they pleased.
“Now, it came to passe, that
about the beginning of May, it being then a very milde
and serrene season, and he leading there a much more
magnificent life, then ever hee had done before, inviting
divers to dine with him this day, and as many to morrow,
and not to leave him till after supper: upon
the sodaine, falling into remembrance of his cruell
Mistris, hee commanded all his servants to forbeare
his company, and suffer him to walke alone by himselfe
awhile, because he had occasion of private meditations,
wherein he would not (by any meanes) be troubled.
It was then about the ninth houre of the day, and
he walking on solitary all alone, having gone some
halfe miles distance from his Tents, entred into a
Grove of Pine-trees, never minding dinner time, or
any thing else, but onely the unkind requitall of
his love.
“Sodainly he heard the voice
of a woman, seeming to make most mournfull complaints,
which breaking off his silent considerations, made
him to lift up his head, to know the reason of this
noise. When he saw himselfe so farre entred into
the Grove, before he could imagine where he was; hee
looked amazedly round about him, and out of a little
thicket of bushes and briars, round engirt with spreading
trees, hee espyed a young Damosell come running towards
him, naked from the middle upward, her haire
dishevelled on her shoulders, and her faire skinne
rent and torne with the briars and brambles, so that
the blood ran trickling downe mainely; she weeping,
wringing her hands, and crying out for mercy so lowde
as she could. Two fierce Blood-hounds also followed
swiftly after, and where their teeth tooke hold, did
most cruelly bite her. Last of all (mounted on
a lusty blacke Courser) came galloping a Knight, with
a very sterne and angry countenance, holding a drawne
short Sword in his hand, giving her very vile and
dreadful speeches, and threatning every minute to kill
her.
“This strange and uncouth sight,
bred in him no meane admiration, as also kinde compassion
to the unfortunate woman; out of which compassion,
sprung an earnest desire, to deliver her (if he could)
from a death so full of anguish and horror: but
seeing himselfe to be without Armes, he ran and pluckt
up the plant of a Tree, which handling as if it had
bene a staffe , he opposed himselfe against
the Dogges and the Knight, who seeing him comming,
cryed out in this manner to him. Anastasio, put
not thy selfe in any opposition, but referre
to my Hounds and me, to punish this wicked woman as
she hath justly deserved. And in speaking these
words, the Hounds tooke fast hold on her body, so
staying her, untill the Knight was come neerer to
her, and alighted from his horse: when Anastasio
(after some other angry speeches) spake thus unto
him: I cannot tell what or who thou art, albeit
thou takest such knowledge of me, yet I must say, that
it is meere cowardize in a Knight, being armed
as thou art, to offer to kill a naked woman, and make
thy dogges thus to seize on her, as if she were a
savage beast; therefore beleeve me, I will defend her
so farre as I am able.
“Anastasio, answered the Knight,
I am of the same City as thou art, and do well remember,
that thou wast a little Ladde, when I (who was then
named Guido Anastasio, and thine Unckle) became as
intirely in love with this woman, as now thou art
of Paulo Traversarioes daughter. But through
her coy disdaine and cruelty, such was my heavy fate,
that desperately I slew my selfe with this short sword
which thou beholdest in mine hand: for which
rash sinfull deede, I was, and am condemned to eternall
punishment. This wicked woman, rejoycing immeasurably
in mine unhappy death, remained no long time alive
after me, and for her mercilesse sinne of cruelty,
and taking pleasure in my oppressing torments; dying
unrepentant, and in pride of her scorne, she had the
like sentence of condemnation pronounced on her, and
sent to the same place where I was tormented.
“There the three impartiall
Judges, imposed this further infliction on us both;
namely, that she should flye in this manner before
me, and I (who loved her so deerely while I lived)
must pursue her as my deadly enemy, not like a woman
that had a taste of love in her. And so often
as I can overtake her, I am to kill her with this sword,
the same Weapon wherewith I slew my selfe. Then
am I enjoyned, therewith to open her accursed body,
and teare out her hard and frozen heart, with her
other inwards, as now thou seest me doe, which I give
unto my Hounds to feede on. Afterward, such is
the appointment of the supreame powers, that she reassumeth
life againe, even as if she had not bene dead
at all, and falling to the same kinde of flight, I
with my Hounds am still to follow her; without any
respite or intermission. Every Friday, and just
at this houre, our course is this way, where she suffereth
the just punishment inflicted on her. Nor do we
rest any of the other dayes, but are appointed unto
other places, where she cruelly executed her malice
against me, being now (of her deare affectionate friend)
ordained to be her endlesse enemy, and to pursue her
in this manner for so many yeares, as she exercised
moneths of cruelty towards me. Hinder me not
then, in being the executioner of divine justice;
for all thy interposition is but in vaine , in
seeking to crosse the appointment of supreame powers.
“Anastasio having attentively
heard all this discourse, his haire stood upright
like Porcupines quils, and his soule was so shaken
with the terror, that he stept backe to suffer the
Knight to do what he was enjoyned, looking yet with
milde commisseration on the poore woman. Who
kneeling most humbly before the Knight, and stearnely
seized on by the two blood-hounds, he opened her brest
with his weapon, drawing foorth her heart and bowels,
which instantly he threw to the dogges, and they devoured
them very greedily. Soone after, the Damosell
(as if none of this punishment had bene inflicted
on her) started up sodainly, running amaine towards
the Sea shore, and the Hounds swiftly following her,
as the Knight did the like, after he had taken his
sword, and was mounted on horse-backe; so that Anastasio
had soone lost all sight of them, and could not gesse
what was become of them.
“After he had heard and observed
all these things, he stoode a while as confounded
with feare and pitty, like a simple silly man, hoodwinkt
with his owne passions, not knowing the subtle enemies
cunning illusions in offering false suggestions to
the sight, to worke his owne ends thereby, and encrease
the number of his deceived servants. Forthwith
he perswaded himselfe, that he might make good use
of this womans tormenting, so justly imposed on the
Knight to prosecute, if thus it should continue still
every Friday. Wherefore, setting a good note
or marke upon the place, he returned backe to his owne
people, and at such time as he thought convenient,
sent for divers of his kindred and friends from Ravenna,
who being present with him, thus he spake to them.
“Deare Kinsmen and Friends,
ye have a long while importuned me, to discontinue
my over-doating love to her, whom you all thinke, and
I find to be my mortall enemy: as also, to give
over my lavish expences, wherein I confesse my
selfe too prodigall; both which requests of yours,
I will condiscend to, provided, that you will performe
one gracious favour for me; Namely, that on Friday
next, Signior Paulo Traversario, his wife, daughter,
with all other women linked in linage to them, and
such beside onely as you shall please to appoint, will
vouchsafe to accept a dinner heere with me; as for
the reason thereto mooving me, you shall then more
at large be acquainted withall. This appeared
no difficult matter for them to accomplish: wherefore,
being returned to Ravenna, and as they found the time
answerable to their purpose, they invited such as
Anastasio had appointed them. And although they
found it some-what an hard matter, to gaine her
company whom he so deerely affected; yet notwithstanding,
the other women won her along with them.
“A most magnificent dinner had
Anastasio provided, and the tables were covered under
the Pine-trees, where he saw the cruell Lady so pursued
and slaine: directing the guests so in their seating,
that the yong Gentlewoman his unkinde Mistresse, sate
with her face opposite unto the place, where the dismall
spectacle was to be seen. About the closing up
of dinner, they beganne to heare the noise of the poore
prosecuted Woman, which drove them all to much admiration;
desiring to know what it was, and no one resolving
them, they arose from the Tables, and looking directly
as the noise came to them, they espyed the wofull
Woman, the Dogges eagerly pursuing her; and the armed
Knight on horsebacke, gallopping fiercely after them
with his drawne weapon, and came very nere unto
the company, who cryed out with lowd exclaimes against
the dogs and the Knight, stepping forth in assistance
of the injured woman.
“The Knight spake unto them,
as formerly he had done to Anastasio, (which made
them draw backe, possessed with feare and admiration)
acting the same cruelty as he did the Friday before,
not differing in the least degree. Most of the
Gentlewomen there present, being neere allyed to the
unfortunate Woman, and likewise to the Knight, remembring
well both his love and death, did shed teares as plentifully,
as if it had bin to the very persons themselves, in
usuall performance of the action indeede. Which
tragicall Scoene being passed over, and the Woman
and Knight gone out of their sight: all that
had seene this straunge accident, fell into diversity
of confused opinions, yet not daring to disclose them,
as doubting some further danger to ensue thereon.
“But beyond all the rest, none
could compare in feare and astonishment with the cruell
yong Maide affected by Anastasio, who both saw and
observed all with a more inward apprehension, knowing
very well, that the morall of this dismall spectacle,
carried a much neerer application to her then any
other in all the company. For now she could call
to mind, how unkinde and cruell she had shewne her
selfe to Anastasio, even as the other Gentlewoman
formerly did to her Lover, still flying from him in
great contempt and scorne: for which, she thought
the Blood-hounds also pursued her at the heeles already,
and a sword of vengeance to mangle her body.
This feare grew so powerfull in her, that to prevent
the like heavy doome from falling on her, she studied
(by all her best and commendable meanes, and therein
bestowed all the night season) how to change her hatred
into kinde love, which at the length she fully obtained,
and then purposed to prosecute in this manner.
“Secretly she sent a faithfull
Chamber-maide of her owne, to greete Anastasio on
her behalfe; humbly entreating him to come see her:
because now she was absolutely determined, to give
him satisfaction in all which (with honour) he could
request of her. Whereto Anastasio answered, that
he accepted her message thankfully, and desired no
other favour at her hand, but that which stood with
her owne offer, namely, to be his Wife in honourable
marriage. The Maide knowing sufficiently, that
he could not be more desirous of the match, then her
Mistresse shewed her selfe to be, made answer in her
name, that this motion would be most welcome to her.
“Heereupon, the Gentlewoman
her selfe, became the solicitour to her Father and
Mother, telling them plainly, that she was willing
to be the Wife of Anastasio: which newes did
so highly content them, that upon the Sunday next
following, the marriage was very worthily solemnized,
and they lived and loved together very kindly.
Thus the divine bounty, out of the malignant enemies
secret machinations, can cause good effects to arise
and succeede. For, from this conceite of fearfull
imagination in her, not onely happened this long desired
conversion, of a Maide so obstinately scornfull and
proud; but likewise all the women of Ravenna (being
admonished by her example) grew afterward more kind
and tractable to mens honest motions, then ever they
shewed themselves before. And let me make some
use hereof ( faire Ladies ) to you, not to
stand over-nicely conceited of your beauty and good
parts, when men (growing enamored of you by them)
solicite you with their best and humblest services.
Remember then this disdainfull Gentlewoman, but more
especially her, who being the death of so kinde a
Lover, was therefore condemned to perpetuall punishment,
and he made the minister thereof, whom she had cast
off with coy disdaine, from which I wish your minds
to be as free, as mine is ready to do you any acceptable
service."
To Dante and to Boccaccio belong of
right morning and noon in the Pineta; but the evening
is ours for it belongs to Byron:
“Sweet hour of twilight’ in
the solitude
Of the pine forest, and the silent shore
Which bounds Ravenna’s immemorial
wood,
Rooted where once the Adrian wave flowed
o’er,
To where the last Caesarean fortress stood,
Evergreen forest I which Boccaccio’s
lore
And Dryden’s lay made haunted ground
to me
How have I loved the twilight hour and
thee;
“The shrill cicalas, people of the
pine,
Making their summer lives one ceaseless
song,
Were the sole echoes, save my steed’s
and mine,
And vesper bells that rose the boughs
along,
The spectre huntsman of Onesti’s
line,
His hell-dogs, and their chase, and the
fair throng
Which learn’d from this example
not to fly
From a true lover shadow’d
my mind’s eye
“Soft hour! which wakes the wish
and melts the heart
Of those who sail the seas, on the first
day
When they from their sweet friends are
torn apart.
Or fills with love the pilgrim on his
way
As the far bell of vesper makes him start,
Seeming to weep the dying day’s
decay,
Is this a fancy which our reason scorns?
Ah, surely nothing dies but something
mourns!”
That “sweet hour of twilight”
in the Pineta is the most precious hour of the day,
when far off across the marsh softly, softly comes
the Ave Maria....
“ O tu rinnovellata
itala gente da lé molte vite
rendi la voce
“ de ta preghiera ,
la campana squilli ammonitrice, il
campanil risorto canti di clivo in
clivo a la campagna Ave Maria.
“Ave Maria! Quando su
l’aure corre l’umil saluto ,
i piccioh mortali scovrono il capo , curvano
la fronte Dante ed Aroldo_”