Lay your course south-east half east
from the Campanella. If the weather is what it
should be in late summer you will have a fresh breeze
on the starboard quarter from ten in the morning till
four or five o’clock in the afternoon.
Sail straight across the wide gulf of Salerno, and
when you are over give the Licosa Point a wide berth,
for the water is shallow and there are reefs along
shore. Moreover there is no light on Licosa Point,
and many a good ship has gone to pieces there in dark
winter nights when the surf is rolling in. If
the wind holds you may run on to Palinuro in a long
day before the evening calm comes on, and the water
turns oily and full of pink and green and violet streaks,
and the sun settles down in the north-west. Then
the big sails will hang like curtains from the long
slanting yards, the slack sheets will dip down to
the water, the rudder will knock softly against the
stern-post as the gentle swell subsides. Then
all is of a golden orange colour, then red as wine,
then purple as grapes, then violet, then grey, then
altogether shadowy as the stars come out unless
it chances that the moon is not yet full, and edges
everything with silver on your left hand while the
sunset dyes fade slowly to darkness upon your right.
Then the men forward will bestir themselves
and presently a red glow rises and flickers and paints
what it touches, with its own colours. The dry
wood crackles and flares on the brick and mortar hearth,
and the great kettle is put on. Presently the
water boils in go the long bundles of fine-drawn
paste, and everybody collects forward to watch the
important operation. Stir it quickly at first.
Let it boil till a bit of it is tender under the teeth.
In with the coarse salt, and stir again. Up with
kettle. Chill it with a quart of cold water from
the keg. A hand with the colander and one with
the wooden spoon while the milky boiling water is
drained off. Garlic and oil, or tomato preserve?
Whichever it is, be quick about it. And so to
supper, with huge hard biscuit and stony cheese, and
the full wine jug passed from mouth to mouth.
To every man a fork and to every man his place within
arm’s length of the great basin mottled
green and white within, red brown and unglazed on the
outside. But the man at the helm has an earthen
plate, and the jug is passed aft to him from time
to time.
Not that he has much to do as he lies
there on his six-foot deck that narrows away so sharply
to the stern. He has taken a hitch round the
heavy tiller with the slack of the main sheet to keep
it off the side of his head while he eats. There
is no current, and there is not a breath of air.
By and by, before midnight, you will smell the soft
land breeze blowing in puffs out of every little bay
and indentation. There is no order needed.
The men silently brace the yards and change the sheets
over. The small jib is already bent in place of
the big one, for the night is dark and some of those
smart puffs will soon be like little squalls.
Full and by. Hug the land, for there are no more
reefs before Scalea. If you do not get aground
on what you can see in Calabria, you will not get
aground at all, says the old proverb. Briskly
over two or three miles to the next point, and the
breeze is gone again. While she is still forging
ahead out go the sweeps, six or eight of them, and
the men throw themselves forward over the long slender
loom, as they stand. Half an hour to row, or
more perhaps. Down helm, as you meet the next
puff, and the good felucca heels over a little.
And so through the night, the breeze freshening before
the rising sun to die away in the first hot morning
hours, just as you are abreast of Camerota. L’Infresco
Point is ahead, not three miles away. It is of
no use to row, for the breeze will come up before
long and save you the trouble. But the sea is
white and motionless. Far in the offing a Sicilian
schooner and a couple of clumsy “martinganes” there
is no proper English name for the craft are
lying becalmed, with hanging sails. The men on
board the felucca watch them and the sea. There
is a shadow on the white, hazy horizon, then a streak,
then a broad dark blue band. The schooner braces
her top-sail yard and gets her main sheet aft.
The martinganes flatten in their jibs along their
high steeving bowsprits and jib-booms. Shift
your sheets, too, now, for the wind is coming.
Past L’Infresco with its lovely harbour of refuge,
lonely as a bay in a desert island, its silent shade
and its ancient spring. The wind is south by west
at first, but it will go round in an hour or two,
and before noon you will make Scalea stand
out for the reef, the only one in Calabria with
a stern breeze. You have passed the most beautiful
spot on the beautiful Italian coast, without seeing
it. There, between the island of Dino and the
cape lies San Nicola, with its grand deserted tower,
its mighty cliffs, its deep, safe bay and its velvet
sand. What matter? The wind is fair and
you are for Calabria with twenty tons of macaroni from
Amalfi. There is no time to be lost, either,
for you will probably come home in ballast. Past
Scalea, then, where tradition says that Judas Iscariot
was born and bred and did his first murder. Right
ahead is the sharp point of the Diamante, beyond that
low shore where the cane brake grows to within fifty
yards of the sea. Now you have run past the little
cape, and are abreast of the beach. Down mainsail down
jib down foresail. Let go the anchor
while she forges, eight to nine lengths from the land,
and let her swing round, stern to the sand. Clear
away the dingy and launch her from amidships, and
send a line ashore. Overboard with everything
now, for beaching, capstan, chocks and all the
swell will wash them in. As the keel grates on
the pebbles, the men jump into the water from the
high stern and catch the drifting wood. Some plant
the capstan, others pass the long hemp cable and reeve
it through the fiddle block. A hand forward to
slack out the cable as the heavy boat slowly creeps
up out of the water. The men from other craft,
already beached, lend a hand too and a score of stout
fellows breast the long oars which serve for capstan
bars. A little higher still. Now prop her
securely and make all snug and ship-shape, and make
fast the blade of an oar to one of the forward tholes,
with the loom on the ground, for a ladder. You
are safe in Calabria.
To-morrow at early dawn you must go
into the hills, for you cannot sell a tenth of your
cargo in the little village. Away you trudge on
foot, across the rocky point, along the low flat beach
by the cane brake, up the bed of the rivulet, where
the wet green blades of the canes brush your face
at every step. Shoes and stockings in hand you
ford the shallow river, then, shod again, you begin
the long ascent. You will need four good hours,
or five, for you are not a landsman, your shoes hurt
you, and you would rather reef top-sails aye,
and take the lee earing, too, in any gale and a score
of times, than breast that mountain. It cannot
be helped. It is a hard life, though there are
lazy days in the summer months, when the wind will
do your work for you. You must live, and earn
your share; though they call you the master, neither
boat nor cargo are yours, and you have to earn that
share by harder work and with greater anxiety than
the rest. But the world is green to-day.
You remember a certain night last March off
Cape Orso in the gulf, when the wind they call the
Punti di Salerno was raging down and you
had a jib bent for a mainsail, and your foresail close
reefed and were shipping more green water than you
like to think of. Pitch dark, too, and the little
lighthouse on the cape not doing its best, as it seemed.
The long line of the Salerno lights on the weather
bow. No getting there, either, and no getting
anywhere else apparently. Then you tried your
luck. Amalfi might not be blowing. It
was no joke to go about just then, but you managed
it somehow, because you had half a dozen brave fellows
with you. As she came up she was near missing
stays and you sang out to let go the main halyards.
The yard came down close by your head and nearly killed
you, but she paid-off all right and went over on the
starboard tack. Just under the cape the water
was smooth. Just beyond it the devil was loose
with all his angels, for Amalfi was blowing its
own little hurricane on its own account from another
quarter. Nothing for it but to go about and try
Salerno again. What could you do in an open felucca
with the green water running over? You did your
best. Five hours out of that pitch black night
you beat up, first trying one harbour and then the
other. Amalfi gave in first, just as the
waning moon rose, and you got under the breakwater
at last.
You remember that last of your many
narrow escapes to-day as you trudge up the stony mule-track
through the green valleys, and it strikes you that
after all it is easier to walk from Diamante all the
way to Verbicaro, than to face a March storm in the
gulf of Salerno in an open boat on a dark night.
Up you go, past that strange ruin of the great Norman-Saracen
castle standing alone on the steep little hill which
rises out of the middle of the valley, commanding the
roads on the right and the left. You have heard
of the Saracens but not of the Normans. What
kind of people lived there amongst those bristling
ivy-grown towers? Thieves of course. Were
they not Saracens and therefore Turks, according to
your ethnology, and therefore brigands? It is
odd that the government should have allowed them to
build a castle just there. Perhaps they were
stronger than the government. You have never heard
of Count Roger, either, though you know the story
of Judas Iscariot by heart as you have heard it told
many a time in Scalea. Up you go, leaving the
castle behind you, up to that square house they call
the tower on the brow of the hill. It is a lonely
road, a mere sheep track over the heights. You
are over it at last, and that is Verbicaro, over there
on the other side of the great valley, perched against
the mountain side, a rough, grey mass of red-roofed
houses cropping up like red-tipped rocks out of a
vast, sloping vineyard. And now there are people
on the road, slender, barefooted, brown women in dark
wine-coloured woollen skirts and scarlet cloth bodices
much the worse for wear, treading lightly under half-a-quintal
weight of grapes; well-to-do peasant men galantuomini,
they are all called in Calabria driving
laden mules before them, their dark blue jackets flung
upon one shoulder, their white stockings remarkably
white, their short home-spun breeches far from ragged,
as a rule, but their queer little pointed hats mostly
colourless and weather-beaten. Boys and girls,
too, meet you and stare at you, or overtake you at
a great pace and almost run past you, with an enquiring
backward glance, each carrying something mostly
grapes or figs. Out at last, by the little chapel,
upon what is the beginning of an inland carriage road in
a land where even the one-wheeled wheelbarrow has
never been seen. The grass grows thick among
the broken stones, and men and beasts have made a narrow
beaten track along the extreme outside edge of the
precipice. The new bridge which was standing
in all its spick and span newness when you came last
year, is a ruin now, washed away by the spring freshets.
A glance tells you that the massive-looking piers
were hollow, built of one thickness of stone, shell-fashion,
and filled with plain earth. Somebody must have
cheated. Nothing new in that. They are all
thieves nowadays, seeking to eat, as you say in your
dialect, with a strict simplicity which leaves nothing
to the imagination. At all events this bridge
was a fraud, and the peasants clamber down a steep
footpath they have made through its ruins, and up
the other side.
And now you are in the town.
The streets are paved, but Verbicaro is not Naples,
not Salerno, not even Amalfi. The pavement
is of the roughest cobble stones, and the pigs are
the scavengers. Pigs everywhere, in the streets,
in the houses, at the windows, on the steps of the
church in the market-place, to right and left, before
you and behind you like the guns at Balaclava.
You never heard of the Six Hundred, though your father
was boatswain of a Palermo grain bark and lay three
months in the harbour of Sebastapol during the fighting.
Pigs everywhere, black, grunting and
happy. Red-skirted, scarlet-bodiced women everywhere,
too, all moving and carrying something. Galantuomini
loafing at most of the corners, smoking clay pipes
with cane stems, and the great Jew shopkeeper’s
nose just visible from a distance as he stands in
the door of his dingy den. Dirtier and dirtier
grow the cobble stones as you go on. Brighter
and brighter the huge bunches of red peppers fastened
by every window, thicker and thicker on the upper walls
and shaky balconies the black melons and yellowish
grey cantelopes hung up to keep in the high fresh
air, each slung in a hitch of yarn to a nail of its
own.
Here and there some one greets you.
What have you to sell? Will you take a cargo
of pears? Good this year, like all the fruit.
The figs and grapes will not be dry for another month.
They nod and move on, as you pass by them. Verbicaro
is a commercial centre, in spite of the pigs.
A tall, thin priest meets you, with a long black cigar
in his mouth. When he catches your eye he takes
it from between his teeth and knocks the ash off,
seeing that you are a stranger. Perhaps it is
not very clerical to smoke in the streets. But
who cares? This is Verbicaro and besides,
it is not a pipe. Monks smoke pipes. Priests
smoke cigars.
One more turn down a narrow lane darkest
and dirtiest of all the lanes, the cobble stones only
showing here and there above the universal black puddle.
Yet the air is not foul and many a broad street by
the Basso Porto in Naples smells far worse. The
keen high atmosphere of the Calabrian mountains is
a mighty purifier of nastiness, and perhaps the pig
is not to be despised after all, as sanitary engineer,
scavenger and street sweeper.
This is Don Pietro Casale’s
house, the last on the right, with the steep staircase
running up outside the building to the second story.
And the staircase has an iron railing, and so narrows
the lane that a broad shouldered man can just go by
to the cabbage garden beyond without turning sideways.
On the landing at the top, outside the closed door
and waiting for visitors, sits the pig a
pig larger, better fed and by one shade of filthiness
cleaner than other pigs. Don Pietro Casale has
been seen to sweep his pig with a broken willow broom,
after it has rained.
“Do you take him for a Christian?”
asked his neighbour, in amazement, on the occasion.
“No,” answered Don Pietro
gravely. “He is certainly not a Christian.
But why should he spoil the tablecloth with his muddy
hog’s back when my guests are at their meals?
He is always running under the table for the scraps.”
“And what are women for, except
to wash tablecloths?” inquired the neighbour
contemptuously.
But he got no answer. Few people
ever get more than one from Don Pietro Casale, whose
eldest son is doing well at Buenos Ayres, and in whose
house the postmaster takes his meals now that he is
a widower.
For Don Pietro and his wife Donna
Concetta sell their own wine and keep a cook-shop,
besides a guest-room with a garret above it, and two
beds, with an old-fashioned store of good linen in
old-fashioned iron-bound chests. At the time
of the fair they can put up a dozen or fourteen guests.
People say indeed that the place is not so well managed,
nor the cooking so good since poor Carmela died, the
widow of Ruggiero dei Figli del Re Roger
of the Children of the King.
For this is the place where the Children
of the King lived and died for many generations, and
this house of Don Pietro Casale was theirs, and the
one on the other side of the cabbage garden, a smaller
and poorer one, in which Carmela died. The garden
itself was once theirs, and the vineyard beyond, and
the olive grove beyond that, and much good land in
the valley. For they were galantuomini, and
even thought themselves something better, and sometimes,
when the wine was new, they talked of noble blood
and said that their first ancestor had indeed been
a son of a king who had given him all Verbicaro for
his own. True it is, at least, that they had
no other name. Through generation after generation
they were christened Ruggiero, Guglielmo, and Sebastiano
“of the Children of the King.” Thus
they had anciently appeared in the ill-kept parish
registers, and thus was Ruggiero inscribed for the
conscription under the new law.
And now, as you know, gaunt, weather-beaten
Luigione, licensed master in the coast trade and just
now captain of the Sorrentine felucca Giovannina,
from Amalfi to Diamante with macaroni, there are
no more of the Children of the King in old Verbicaro,
and their goods have fallen into divers hands, but
chiefly into those very grasping and close-holding
ones of Don Pietro Casale and his wife. But they
are not all dead by any means, as you know also and
you have even lately seen and talked with one of the
fair-haired fellows, who bears the name.
For the Children of the King have
almost always had yellow hair and blue eyes, though
they have more than once taken to themselves black-browed,
brown-skinned Calabrian girls as wives. And this
makes one, who knows something more about your country
than you do, Luigione though in a less
practical way I confess this makes one think
that they may be the modern descendants of some Norman
knightling who took Verbicaro for himself one morning
in the old days, and kept it; or perhaps even the
far-off progeny of one of those bright-eyed, golden-locked
Goths who made slaves of the degenerate Latins some
thirteen centuries ago or more, and treated their
serfs indeed more like cattle than slaves until almost
the last of them were driven into the sea with their
King Teias by Narses. But a few were left in
the southern fastnesses and in the Samnite hills,
and northward through the Apennines, scattered here
and there where they had been able to hold their own;
and some, it is said, forgot Theodoric and Witiges
and Totila and Teias, and took service in the Imperial
Guard at Constantinople, as Harold of Norway and some
of our own hard-fisted sailor fathers did in later
years.
Be that as it may and no
one knows how it was the Children of the
King have yellow hair and blue eyes to this present
time, and no one would take them for Calabrians, nor
for Sicilians, still less for monkey-limbed, hang-dog
mouthed, lying, lubberly Neapolitans who can neither
hand, reef nor steer, nor tell you the difference between
a bowline and a buntling, though you may show them
a dozen times, nor indeed can do anything but steal
and blaspheme and be the foulest, filthiest crew that
Captain Satan ever shipped for the Long Voyage.
Not fit to slush down the mast of a collier, the best
of them.
It must be a dozen years since Carmela
died in that little house beyond the cabbage garden.
It was a glorious night in September a strange
night in some ways, and not like other nights one remembers,
for the full moon had risen over the hills to the
left, filling the world with a transparent vapour
of silver, so clear and so bright that the very light
seemed good to breathe as it is good to drink crystal
water from a spring. Verbicaro was all asleep
behind Don Pietro Casale’s house, and in front,
from the terrace before the guest-room, one could see
the great valley far below beyond the cabbages, deep
and mysterious, with silver-dashed shadows and sudden
blacknesses, and bright points of white where the
moon’s rays fell upon a solitary hut. And
on the other side of the valley, above Grisolia, a
great round-topped mountain and on the top of the
mountain an enormous globe of cloud, full of lightning
that flashed unceasingly, so that the cloud was at
one instant like a ball of silver in the moonlight,
and at the next like a ball of fire in darkness.
Not a breath stirred the air, and the strange thunderstorm
flashed out its life through the long hours, stationary
and alone at its vast height.
In the great silence two sounds broke
the stillness from time to time; the deep satisfied
grunt of a pig turning his fattest side to the cobble
stones as he slept and the long, low wail
of a woman dying in great pain.
The little room was very dark.
A single wick burned in the boat-shaped cup of the
tall earthenware lamp, and there was little oil left
in the small receptacle. On the high trestle
bed, upon the thinnest of straw mattresses, decently
covered with a coarse brown blanket, lay a pale woman,
emaciated to a degree hardly credible. A clean
white handkerchief was bound round her brow and covered
her head, only a scanty lock or two of fair hair escaping
at the side of her face. The features were calm
and resigned, but when the pain of the death agony
seized upon her the thin lips parted and deep lines
of suffering appeared about the mouth; She seemed
to struggle as best she could, but the low, quavering
cry would not be stifled lower and more
trembling each time it was renewed.
An old barefooted friar with a kindly
eye and a flowing grey beard stood beside her.
He had done what he could to comfort her and was going
away. But she feebly begged him to stay a little
longer. In an interval, while she had no pain,
she spoke to her boys.
“Ruggiero Sebastiano dear
sons you could not save me, and I am going.
God bless you. Our Lady help you remember you
are Children of the King remember ah.”
She sighed heavily and her jaw fell
as another sort of pallor spread suddenly over her
face. Poor Carmela was dead at last, after weeks
of sickness, worked to death, as the neighbours said,
by Pietro Casale and his wife Concetta.
She left those two boys, lean, poorly
clad lads of ten and twelve years, yellow haired and
blue eyed, with big bones and hunger-pinched faces.
They could just remember seeing their father brought
home dead with a knife wound in his breast six years
earlier. Now they took hands as they looked at
their dead mother with a sort of wondering gaze.
There were no tears, no cries of despair least
of all did they show any fear.
Old Padre Michele made them kneel
down, still hand in hand, while he recited prayers
for the dead. The boys knew some of the responses,
learned by ear with small regard for Latinity, though
they understood what they were saying. When the
monk got up they rose also and looked again at the
poor dead face.
“You have no relations, my children,”
said the old man.
“We are alone,” answered
the elder boy in a quiet, clear voice. “But
I will take care of Sebastiano.”
“And I will help Ruggiero,”
said the younger in much the same tone.
“You are hungry?”
“Always,” answered both together, without
hesitation.
Padre Michele would have smiled, but
the hungry faces and the mournful tone told him how
true the spoken word must be. He fumbled in the
pockets in the breast of his gown, and presently produced
a few shady-looking red and white sugar sweetmeats,
bullet-like in shape and hardness.
“It is all I have now, my children,”
said the old man. “I picked them up yesterday
at a wedding, to give them to a poor little girl who
was ill. But she was dead when I got there, so
you may have them.”
The lads took the stuff thankfully
and crunched the stony balls with white, wolfish teeth.
With Padre Michele’s help they
got an old woman from amongst the neighbours to rouse
herself and do what was necessary. When all was
over she took the brown blanket as payment without
asking for it, smuggling it out of the mean room under
her great black handkerchief. But it was day
then, and Don Pietro Casale was wide awake. He
stopped her in the narrow part of the lane at the
foot of his own staircase, and forcibly undid the
bundle, to the old woman’s inexpressible discomfiture.
He said nothing, as he took it from her and carried
it away, but his thin grey lips smiled quietly.
The old woman shook her fist at him behind his back
and cursed his dead under her breath. From Rome
to Palermo, swear at a man if you please, call him
by bad names, and he will laugh at you. But curse
his dead relations or their souls, and you had better
keep beyond the reach of his knife, or of his hands
if he have no weapon. So the old woman was careful
that Pietro Casale should not hear her.
“Managgia l’anima
di chi t’ e morto!” she
muttered, as she hobbled away.
Everything in the room where Carmela
died belonged to Don Pietro, and he took everything.
He found the two boys standing together, looking across
the fence of the cabbage garden down at the distant
valley and over at the height opposite, beyond which
the sea was hidden.
“Eh! You good-for-nothings!”
he called out to them. “Is nothing done
to-day because the mother is dead? No bread to-night,
then you know that.”
“We will not work for you any
more,” answered Ruggiero, the elder, as both
turned round.
Don Pietro went up to them. He
had a short stout stick in his hand, tough and black
with age, and he lifted it as though to drive them
to work. They waited quietly till it should please
him to come to close quarters, which he did without
delay. I have said that he was a man of few words.
But the Children of the King were not like Calabrian
boys, children though they were. Their wolfish
teeth were very white as they waited for him with
parted lips, and there was an odd blue light in their
eyes which is not often seen south of Goth-land.
They were but twelve and ten years
old, but they could fight already, in their small
way, and had tried it many a time with shepherd lads
on the hill-side. But Don Pietro despised children
and aimed a blow at Ruggiero’s right shoulder.
The blow did not take effect, but a moment had not
passed before the old peasant lay sprawling on his
back with both the boys on top of him.
“You cannot hurt the mother
now,” said Ruggiero. “Hit him as I
do, Bastianello!”
And the four bony boyish fists fell
in a storm of savage blows upon Don Pietro Casale’s
leathern face and eyes and head and thin grey lips.
“That is for the mother,”
said Ruggiero. “Another fifty a-piece for
ourselves.”
The wiry old peasant struggled desperately,
and at last threw himself free of them and staggered
to his feet.
“Quick, Bastianello!” shouted Ruggiero.
In the twinkling of an eye they were
over the fence and running at full speed for the valley.
Don Pietro bruised, dazed and half-blinded, struggled
after them, crashing through hedges and stumbling into
ditches while he shouted for help in his pursuit.
But his heavy shoes hampered him, and at best he was
no match for them in speed. His face was covered
with purple blotches and his eyelids were swelling
at a terrible rate. Out of breath and utterly
worn out he stood still and steadied himself against
a crooked olive-tree. He could no longer hear
even the footsteps of the lads before him.
They were beyond his reach now.
The last of the Children of the King had left Verbicaro,
where their fathers had lived and died since darker
ages than Calabrian history has accurately recorded.