The whaler’s story of the great
Overland Expedition set Eric questioning about the
work of the Coast Guard with the reindeer. He
learned that, partly as a result of his handling of
the trip, the government had selected Lieutenant Bertholf
to make an exploration of northern Siberia for the
purpose of importing Tunguse reindeer, which were reported
to be bigger and better fitted for Alaska than the
Lapp reindeer. He found out how over 200 head
of the larger species had been successfully imported,
and a couple of days later had a very vivid demonstration
of the fact in seeing an Eskimo trot by, riding a
Tunguse reindeer like a saddle horse.
The more the boy saw of the Eskimo,
too, the more he learned to value their race strength.
It was true that they were dirty and that their houses
smelt horribly. But, after all, Eric reasoned,
it is a little hard to keep the habit of baths in
a country where, during six months in the year, a
man would freeze solid in a bath like a fly in a piece
of amber. The Eskimo’s indifference to
smells, moreover, he learned to understand one day,
quite suddenly. He was pacing up and down the
deck with the whaler a day or two before the Bear
reached Point Barrow.
“You’re always worryin’
over those smells,” Joey had said to him.
“You’ve lived in a city, haven’t
you?”
“Nearly all my life,” the boy replied.
“Have you ever been in a city
what wasn’t noisy with street cars, an’
wagons, an’ automobile horns, an’ children
playing, an’ music-boxes an’ pianos goin’
an’ all the rest of it?”
“It is noisy,” Eric admitted,
“but you soon get used to that.”
“Hearin’ is just one o’ the five
senses, ain’t it?”
“Yes.”
“An’ smellin’ is another?”
“Of course.”
“Well, an Eskimo’s nose
gets to be like a city man’s ear, one smells
all the time an’ doesn’t notice it, the
other hears all the while an’ doesn’t
care. You can’t judge a people by its smell.
An’ when it comes to fair dealin’, you
won’t find anywhere a squarer people to deal
with than the Eskimo. You’re Commissioner,
ain’t you?”
“Yes,” the boy answered.
“An’ you haven’t found much crime,
have you, eh?”
“Mighty little,” he admitted.
“It’s the same every year.
They’re a fine race, the Eskimo. I’ll
tell you just one little thing about ’em, that
I don’t think could be said of any other native
race in the whole world.”
“What’s that?” the boy asked.
“You know,” the whaler
said, “how natives go to pieces when civilization
hits ’em.”
“Generally.”
“What do you suppose is the reason?”
“Whisky and white men’s ways,” answered
Eric promptly.
“Right, first shot,” said
the other. “Soon after Alaska was opened
up, the Eskimo learned the excitin’ effects
of whisky. Fearin’ trouble, a strict watch
was kept on the sale of liquor to the natives, an’
as it was easy enough to find out where the whisky
had come from an’ no vessel could escape from
the Arctic without being known, tradin’ spirits
to the Eskimo soon had to be given up.
“But, in order to increase business,
the traders taught one old Eskimo chief, named Ah-tung-owra,
how to make whisky out of flour and molasses.”
“They made it themselves?”
“Yes.”
“But where could they get stills?
I should think it was as easy to catch a trader selling
stills as selling whisky.”
“They’re home-made stills,”
the whaler explained. “There ain’t
much to the apparatus. It is just a five-gallon
coal-oil tin, an old gun-barrel an’ a wooden
tub. The liquor they make tastes like chain lightnin’,
and makes up in strength what it hasn’t got
in flavor.
“But what I think wonderful
is this. When the Coast Guard it was
the Revenue Cutter Service then began its
patrol of the Arctic, one of the first things it did
was to show the Eskimo the result of their drunken
bouts. Takin’ whisky to native tribes an’
then teachin’ ’em to let it alone is the
white man’s long suit.
“But the main difference between
the Eskimo an’ the rest of ’em, is that
these tribes listened. They asked a pile o’
questions an’ at last agreed that the reasons
given were good an’ the habit was bad. Off
their own bat they broke up all the stills on the
coast, an’ months after the clean-up a native
told me that he had told his friends inland what Bertholf
had said, an’ that all the stills there had been
destroyed, too. There’s liquor enough in
the south, but by the Eskimo’s own choosin’
there isn’t a blind tiger to-day between Cape
Prince of Wales, Point Barrow and Mackenzie Bay.”
In consequence of this self-control
on the part of the natives, the young United States
Commissioner found very little strain on his judicial
powers. One of the things that did trouble him
was the constant request of the natives to get married.
The problem seemed so difficult that he asked advice
from the first lieutenant, who, many years before,
had been Commissioner on a similar assignment to that
of Eric.
“I don’t like marrying
these natives, sir,” he said, “because,
so far as I can make out, they haven’t any idea
of the legal end of it. I’ve been talking
to Ahyatlogok, a bridegroom, and he really doesn’t
intend to do anything more than try out the bride
for a season, Eskimo fashion, to see if he likes her.
And if he doesn’t and they both want to separate,
if I’ve married them, they can’t.”
“Why not?”
“Ahyatlogok’s not rich
enough to take that long trip to Nome to get a divorce.
It’s a year’s journey, nearly. And
unless he does, next time the Bear comes up
he’ll be a criminal. And yet he’ll
have done just what his father did before him and
nearly all his neighbors are doing.”
“Mr. Swift,” the senior
officer answered, with a slight twinkle in his eye,
“do you tie a granny knot in a reef-point?”
“No, sir, never!” exclaimed Eric in surprise.
“Why not?”
“Because a granny knot jams, and a reef-point
may have to be untied.”
“There’s your answer,”
said the first lieutenant, smiling as he turned away.
With these constant small matters
and with all the excitements of his trip through the
Arctic, Eric’s summer passed rapidly. After
having touched Point Barrow, the Bear came
south, landing supplies at Cape Lisburne and returning
to Nome. As certain repairs to the machinery were
needed, and as her coal bunkers were growing empty,
the Bear headed to the southward for Unalaska.
The cutter was within half a day’s
steaming of the port when the radio began to buzz
and buzz loudly, answering the call of a vessel in
distress off Chirikof Island. As the steamer was
known to be carrying a number of passengers, thus
endangered, the Bear did not stop at Unalaska,
but putting on full speed, arrived off Cape Sarichef
Lighthouse at 4 o’clock in the morning, proceeding
through Unimak Pass and Inside Passage. The naval
radio station from Unalga Island confirmed the report,
but could give no further details.
Under full speed the Bear reached
the scene of the disaster the next day. Of the
vessel, Oregon Queen, not a sign could be seen,
but, save for three persons, all the crew and passengers
were safe on Chirikof Island. They were almost
without food, however many of them insufficiently
clad and utterly destitute. As the Oregon Queen
had been bound for St. Paul, Kodiak Island, and a
large number of the passengers could depend upon assistance
there, the Bear picked them up, and the day
following, despite extraordinary weather conditions,
landed them at St. Paul. Little did the shipwrecked
men realize that they had only escaped one danger
to be imperilled by another.
“Homer,” said Eric to
his friend the following afternoon, as the Bear
lay outside the barge St. James at the wharf
at St. Paul, “what do you make of that cloud
to the sou’west’ard?”
“Snow,” was the terse reply.
“I don’t,” the boy
objected. “It’s a mighty queer-looking
sort of cloud. It doesn’t look a bit like
anything I’ve ever seen before.”
“There’s lots of things
you’ve never seen,” was his friend’s
reply.
“That’s one of them,”
the boy answered gravely, not at all in his friend’s
jovial vein. “But I don’t think it’s
snow. There’s something awfully queer about
it. Gives me the shivers, somehow! It looks
too solid for snow!”
Minutes passed. Little by little
a curious feeling of unrest began to spread over the
ship. The sailors stopped in their work to glance
up at the strange and menacing cloud. Its edges
were black with an orange fringing, and as clean cut
as though it were some gigantic plate being moved
across the sky. In the distance there was a low
rumble, as of thunder.
The portent rose slowly. Almost
an hour passed before the cloud was half-way up the
zenith. Shortly before two bells in the first
dog watch, Eric, passing his hand along the rail,
realized that it was covered with a fine coat of dust.
This was not black, like coal dust, but a light gray.
“Say, Homer,” he said, “that’s
ashes.”
“Forest fire somewhere,” said the other.
“No,” said Eric, “it looks like
pumice-stone.”
“Volcanic, I’ll bet,”
said the other, with a quickened interest. He
scooped up a pinch of the fine dust and looked at it.
“It’s volcanic, sure enough. There
must be a big eruption somewhere!”
“I wish it were right handy
near by,” said Eric; “I’ve never
seen an eruption.”
“You talk as if they were as
frequent as moving pictures,” said the other.
“But there’s trouble somewhere, you can
lay to that. And it’s not far off, either!
See, there’s another cloud coming up from the
nor’ard!”
Steadily, and with a slowness that
only increased its threatening aspect, the cloud to
the northward joined the vast overhanging canopy that
had been seen earlier in the day. By half-past
six in the evening it was black as the densest night,
the murk only being lighted by the constant flashes
of lightning. The air was highly electrified and
the wireless was made silent. During the evening
the island was shaken by many light earthquake shocks
and several people from St. Paul came to take refuge
on the Bear. At midnight a fine dust was
falling steadily, but by six bells of the middle watch
it had lessened and when the sun rose the next morning,
he could be seen as a dull red ball. The air was
still full of dust and ash, but the eruption was believed
to be over.
Early in the morning scores of people
came to the ship for drinking-water, many of the streams
and wells in the village having been choked.
About five inches of ashes had fallen. The captain
of the Bear started the evaporators going,
to provide drinking-water for the folk ashore.
Shortly before noon the ashes began
to fall again, even more heavily than before.
When Eric came up from below after lunch, the air was
so full of a heavy gritty ash that it was impossible
to see the length of the ship. The Bear
was evidently in a place of danger and there was no
means of determining what was happening or what would
happen.
“Do you suppose we’ll
strike out to sea?” queried Eric of his friend.
“We ought to, for safety, but I don’t see
how we can leave the place unprotected.”
“We’d never do that,”
replied the other. “Things don’t work
out that way in the Coast Guard. You’ll
see. We’ll stick here till the last gun’s
fired.”
It was a relief to Eric when at three
o’clock that afternoon he was ordered to accompany
a shore party. All hands had been on duty since
seven that morning, and when Eric went ashore the sailors
were keeping regular shifts with shovels, clearing
the decks, while four streams of water from the fire
mains were playing incessantly in an effort to clear
the ship of its horrible burden.
More than once, when the rain of volcanic
debris grew especially heavy, the men fell behind,
work as hard as they might. Herein lay real danger,
for if the deck-load of ashes grew too heavy the Bear
might turn turtle. Then all hope of rescue would
be lost.
The captain of the Bear summoned
a meeting of the principal citizens. He sent
to the two saloons in the village and finding that
they were crowded, requested the proprietors to close.
This they did without demur, realizing that at a time
of such peculiar danger, when no one knew what had
happened, what was happening, or where the next outbreak
might come, it was necessary for everybody to be on
the alert.
Through the afternoon the darkness
increased into a horrid gloom far worse than the darkest
night. Men collided with each other working about
the decks, for the feeble glow of electric lights and
lanterns was deadened by the yellowish compost so
that they could not be seen five feet away. When
nightfall came, no one knew, it had been scarcely less
dark at three o’clock in the afternoon than at
midnight. All night long men worked steadily
in shifts, clearing away the ash. Ashore the
conditions were equally terrifying and all night long
the bell of the Russian Church boomed out in the blackness.
There were few of its followers who did not grope
their way to the building at some time during that
awful night.
Sunrise and the coming of daylight
passed unseen and unnoticed. Only chronometers
and watches served to tell the change from night to
day. The three pilots of the place were summoned
to discuss the possibility of getting the Bear
safely out to sea, with all the population of the
village on board. As every landmark was obliterated,
and as the ship’s bow could not be seen from
the bridge, not one of the pilots would undertake
to con the ship through the narrow channel.
Somewhere the sun was shining, but
not a glint of light passed the impenetrable veil
overhead. Still the sailors worked steadily, shoveling
off the ash over the vessel’s side, still the
pumps worked, though now the water brought up from
the harbor was like gruel and scarcely could be forced
through the pipes. Every few minutes, from the
hills around the village, avalanches of ashes could
be heard, the terrible clouds of debris flying over
the town and adding to the choking smother.
Orders were given for all people to
gather on the vessel or the wharf. By ten o’clock
the last of the gray ash-covered ghosts was mustered
in, 185 people on the vessel, 149 in the warehouse
on the wharf. Blinded by ash, with throats so
burned by the acrid fumes that even a hoarse whisper
was agony, with nostrils bleeding from constant effort
to keep them from being clogged with the fine dust,
and with a stabbing pain in the lungs with every breath
one drew, the people were at the extremity of their
endurance. The situation looked desperate both
for the residents and for the officers and crew of
the Coast Guard cutter.
The officers of the Bear worked
incessantly. In the dark they were here, there
and everywhere, and Eric, filled with the spirit of
the service, was on the jump. He was busy in
the storehouse shortly before eleven o’clock
in the morning when a man groped his way in, saying
that he had just escaped an avalanche and that several
men were marooned in a steamer lying off the cannery
wharf half a mile below the dock. This was Eric’s
chance. So often had he made the trip from the
ship to the storehouse that morning that even in the
dark and through the flying spume of yellow horror
he made his way direct to the first lieutenant, and
saluted.
“Yes, Mr. Swift?”
“I have information, sir,”
he said, “that there are seven men cut off either
in a steamer near the cannery, or in the cannery itself,
half a mile below the pier. I am told there is
neither food nor water in the building and that it
is at the base of a hill from which it may be overwhelmed
by an avalanche at any minute. I think, sir, that
a party could reach them.”
The lieutenant nodded and sought the
captain. He returned a few moments later.
“There are high hills between
the village and the cannery,” he said, “and
the road winds along the beach. We have absolutely
no means of knowing what the conditions may be.
Under the circumstances the captain does not feel
justified in ordering a party on what might prove to
be their death. But ”
“Yes, sir?”
“He directed me to say that
neither would he feel justified in refusing permission
to those who desired to attempt a rescue. If there
should be volunteers, I have no doubt that you would
be given the opportunity to lead the party.”
Eric saluted, though in that dim strange
dark he could scarcely see his superior’s face,
and withdrew. In spite of the unknown nature of
the ordeal not a man drew back. Eric chose his
friend, Homer, two warrant officers, three enlisted
men, one local resident for a guide, and the master
of the imperilled steamer.
The road was level, the distance only
half a mile, but so great was the danger of ash avalanches
that every man was roped to the other all
carried lanterns and there were several shovels.
“Hope we don’t get buried
under this stuff!” Eric whispered to Homer, as
they started out.
“I feel just about buried now,” was the
hoarse reply.
At the end of the score of houses
that made the village street, the party struck a deep
drift of the volcanic ash. It took the guide to
his waist and he stumbled and fell. The fine
acrid pumice filled his mouth and his nostrils, and
when Eric picked him up, he feared the man would strangle
to death. A mouthful of fresh air would have meant
much to the sufferer, but there was nothing but the
sulphur-laden atmosphere to breathe. In a minute
or two, however, choking and gasping, the guide cleared
his nasal passages and throat of the burning dust.
Blinded and staggering, he recovered enough to be
able to walk, but Eric took his place and led the
way.
Warned by this accident, which had
so nearly proved a fatality, the boy proceeded with
extreme caution, digging a shovel before him every
step to make sure that the ashes did not hide some
newly opened earthquake crevice into which the party
might fall. Under the slope of the mountainous
shores the swirling spume of gray-yellow dust was so
dense and yet so light in weight that the men struggled
in ashes to their waists, and it was hard to tell
where earth ended and air began. It was as though
the earth had no surface. Unconsciously Eric found
himself using the motions of swimming, in order to
cleave his way through the semi-solid dust.
Suddenly, as Eric prodded the ground
before him, the shovel went through with a jolt, almost
precipitating the boy on his face. Had it not
been for the slowness and the care with which he was
advancing, he might have had the same fate as the
guide. Lifting up the spade, what was his horror
to find that it was wet!
With quick alarm Eric realized that
the rescue party was in the utmost peril. They
had wandered from the shore and were in very truth
within a few inches of disaster. They were walking
on the sea! The layer of floating ash, though
several feet thick, was but a treacherous surface
which might break through at any moment and land them
in the water below. There, certain death awaited
them, for they would smother and drown under the hideous
pall. With his heart in his throat Eric turned
sharply to the right, trusting only to a vague sense
of direction. A score of steps brought him to
a slight billowing of the ash, and with a sigh of
relief he knew he was on solid ground again.
The danger was little less upon the
shore. Huge avalanches could be heard hurtling
down the mountain-side and with each new slide the
air became, if possible, more unbreathable than before.
A new fear possessed the lad. It might be that
they would return alive to the ship, but might not
every member of the party be made helpless for life
by the clogging of the lung-passages with dust?
Presently he felt a tug at the line
which roped the members of the party together, and
he stopped.
“What’s the trouble?” he passed
back word.
“Duncan’s gone under, sir.”
Eric made an uncomplimentary reference
to Duncan under his breath, then questioned,
“Unconscious?”
Came back the answer,
“Yes, sir; completely collapsed.”
The boy was puzzled what to do.
He could detach two members of the party to carry
back the unconscious sailor, but that would reduce
his strength from eight men to five. He could
not leave the man alone, for if he lay on the ground
for even ten minutes, he would be covered with volcanic
ash and could never be found again.
“The two men nearest on the
line pick Duncan up and bring him along,” he
ordered, and the party proceeded.
They had covered another hundred yards,
when overhead they heard a fearful roar. In the
murk and blinding confusion no one could tell what
new peril was threatening, but a piece of pumice almost
the size of an apple came whistling down, midway of
the party. One of the sailors, with great presence
of mind, whipped out his sheath knife and cut the rope,
shouting,
“Forward! Quick as you
can!” then doubled on those behind him, crying,
“Back! Back!”
He was not a moment too soon, for
full between the two halves of the party came a pouring
torrent of ash. Its greasy and slippery character
made it flow almost like water, though sending up clouds
of dust. Choking and blinded, the rear members
of the party gave back. While they waited, not
knowing whether the whole mountain side might not plunge
down upon them, Duncan gasped and came to.
Meantime, Eric passed back word to
see how the rest of the party had fared. What
was his horror to hear, from the fourth man in the
line,
“No one back o’ me, sir.
An’ the line’s been cut through. Not
broken, sir; cut clean!”
“Right about and go back,”
ordered Eric. “We’ve got to find the
rest of them!”
“Beg your pardon, sir, but I can’t.”
“Why not?”
“There’s a Niagerer of
stuff comin’ down the mounting, sir, and no one
could stand up agin it for a minnit.”
“Shout, then, and try if you can hear the others.”
The sailor shouted, and then called to Eric,
“Yes, sir, there’s an
answerin’ hail.” Then, a moment later,
“They say everything’s all right.
Four of them’s there, sir, and Duncan’s
come around.”
The rushing “whoosh” of
the ash-slide began to lessen, and presently, gallantly
plowing through the still sliding pumice, came the
first sailor. The rope was knotted and the party
went on. A quarter of an hour later they reached
the cannery. The Redondo was lying anchored
off the cannery wharf and Eric managed to attract
the attention of the crew and get them to launch their
boat. The boat pulled in as close to the beach
as possible, until it was fast in the ash, then a line
was thrown to the shore and the boat pulled in, though
the last fifteen feet were like thick porridge.
The seven men were brought along the beach and returned
to the vessel. Not a sign remained of the trail
the party had made on its outward trip.
It had taken three hours for the rescue,
and as soon as the eight men reached the vessel, they
gave way. Even Eric was compelled to put himself
in the hands of the ship’s surgeon. The
doctors, one from the ship and one from the village,
had been working night and day. Hollow-eyed and
unsleeping, they continued their task of reviving people
suffocated by the fumes or strangled with ashes.
More than one worker had collapsed utterly as the
result of an unceasing fight against the volcanic
fiery rain.
In the afternoon of that third day
the sky began to clear and by three o’clock
objects became dimly visible. Absolute dark gave
place to an orange-brown light, under which, every
object, cloaked in a mask of ashes, looked horribly
unfamiliar. It was like waking into a new world
where nothing would ever be the same.
The slight tremblings of the earth
increased, and almost at the same time as the clearing
of the sky, there was a serious shake. On board
the Bear the trouble was not so noticeable,
but ashore the occupants of the storehouse fled in
terror, crying that the building would fall on them.
Their fears were not without justification, for the
big frame building creaked and swayed in an alarming
manner.
This decided the matter. Every
one was somehow stowed on board the Bear and
at slow speed, only enough to give steerage way, with
two leads going, and the oldest and most experienced
pilot in the bow to con her through the narrow channel,
the cutter made her way out safely. She anchored
in the outer harbor, fortunately having secured a bearing
from Woody Island, whereby she could run out to sea
by compass course should conditions warrant.
This also gave an opportunity to relieve the suffering
on Woody Island, and 104 persons were brought on board,
making 486 people to be fed from the supplies handled
by the Bear. It was incredible how so
many could be accommodated, but the organization was
perfect.
The night was spent in great suspense;
but Eric, who had been relieved from duty, slept through
it. It was noon before he finally wakened, to
find a bright sunlit sky and a ship clear of ashes.
In the afternoon, as the effects of the eruption cleared
away, three expeditions were sent to Woody Island,
to St. Paul, and to the neighboring islands. Eric
was sent with the Redondo on the rescue party
that was headed for Afognak.
There it was learned that the eruption
had come from Mount Katmai, on the mainland of the
Alaska Peninsula, opposite Kodiak Island, and that
there were people in distress in the region of the
volcano. Without an instant’s delay the
Redondo was headed out of the harbor, and despite
a dense fog, she was run through the Kupreanoff Straits
and across Shelikoff Straits to Kaflia Bay.
At half-past two in the morning, the
Redondo dropped anchor near the volcano, and
as soon as it grew light, Eric was sent to head a landing
party. Every hut was covered with ashes, and a
native, pointing to one of the drifts, said it was
as high as “five houses,” or about fifty
feet high. All the streams were buried; there
was not a drop of liquid of any kind, and the villagers
had lived in the tortures of that ash-choked air for
three days, waterless. Two were delirious from
thirst, all were at the point of exhaustion when the
Coast Guard men appeared to save them.
With her engines throbbing at their
utmost speed, the Redondo passed from point
to point of the stricken coast, saving over fourscore
lives that a half a day’s delay would have rendered
too late to save. When the dusk of that day deepened
into evening, the Redondo turned homeward from
those shrouded shores, bearing to safety the homeless
victims of the peninsula and islands close at hand.
Still in the far distance rumbled
the defeated earthquake, still upon the sky was reflected
the lurid glow of the volcano, which, through the
daring and the courage of the Coast Guard men, claimed
not a single victim.