PLAGUE OF FLIES.

December 4.

To sleep after sunrise was impossible on account of the number of flies which kept buzzing about the face. To open our mouths was dangerous. In they flew, and mysteriously disappeared, to be rapidly ejected again in a violent fit of coughing; and into the eyes, when unclosed, they soon found their way and, by inserting the proboscis and sucking, speedily made them sore; neither were the nostrils safe from their attacks, which were made simultaneously on all points, and in multitudes. This was a very troublesome annoyance, but I afterwards found it to be a very general one throughout all the unoccupied portions of Australia; although in general the further north you go in this continent the more intolerable does the fly nuisance become.

Sunrise offered a very beautiful spectacle; the water was quite unruffled, but the motion communicated by the tides was so great that, although there was not a breath of air stirring, the sea heaved slowly with a grand and majestic motion. On two sides the view was bounded by lofty cliffs, from three to four hundred feet high, lightly wooded at their summits, and broken by wide openings, into which ran arms of the sea, forming gloomy channels of communication with the interior country; whilst on each side of their entrances the huge cliffs rose, like the pillars of some gigantic portal.

In front of us lay a smooth sandy beach, beyond which rose gradually a high wooded country, and behind us was the sea, studded with numerous islands of every variety of form.

Entrance to Prince regent’s river.

I was too much tired by the fatigues of the night before to enjoy the scene with the full delight I should otherwise have done; the bruises I had received made me feel so stiff and sore that the slightest movement was painful; the rainy season was however now so near that it would not do to lose a single day of preparation. Directly after breakfast therefore, whilst one boat went off to search for fresh water and a convenient spot to land the stores at, I accompanied the Captain of the vessel in another up Prince Regent’s River.

Effect of tides.

In general the openings to these rivers from the sea are very narrow, forming gorges which terminate in extensive basins, some fifteen or twenty miles inland; the levels of these reservoirs are subject to be raised thirty-seven feet by every tide through their funnel-like entrances, along which the waters consequently pour with a velocity of which it is difficult to form any adequate idea. By such a tide were we swept along as we entered this river by its southern mouth.

On each side of us rose lofty red sandstone cliffs; sometimes quite precipitous, sometimes, from ancient landslips, shelving gradually down to the water, and at these points covered with a dense tropical vegetation.

Green ants.

At several such places we landed, but always found the ascent to the interior so covered with large loose rocks that it would have been impossible to have disembarked stores or stock on any. The thickness of the vegetation made it difficult to force a way through, and whenever, in attempting so to do, a tree was shaken, numbers of a large green sort of ant fell from the boughs on the unhappy trespasser and, making the best of their way to the back of his neck, gave warning by a series of most painful bites that he was encroaching on their domain. Yet it was sometimes ludicrous to see one of the party momentarily stamping and roaring with pain, as he cried out to a companion to hasten and assist him in getting rid of an enemy at once so diminutive and so troublesome.

PARRAKEETS.

We saw a great number of beautiful parakeets, as well as a remarkable hawk of a bright cinnamon colour, with a milk-white head and neck. As there was no apparent probability of our finding hereabouts a spot suited to land our stock and stores at we returned in the afternoon to the schooner, and found that the party in the other boat had been as unsuccessful as ourselves.

Description of landing-place, and encampment at Hanover bay.

December 5.

The long-boat was this morning despatched to the ravine where we had procured water on the first day of our landing to bring a few casks for immediate use, and to examine the country again in that direction; whilst I accompanied the Captain to examine the inlet at which Captain King had watered in his visit to these parts, in 1821.

Watering place at Hanover bay.

The approach to this watering-place was through a deep narrow channel, bounded on each side by high cliffs, against which our voices echoed and sounded strangely; whilst from the quantity of light which the cliffs excluded a solemn sombre hue was imparted to the scene. Channels similar to the main one branched off on each side; they were however so narrow that the dense vegetation which grew on their sides nearly met in the centre, giving them an appearance of dark and refreshing coolness; most of these terminated in cascades, now dry, but down which the water in the rainy seasons pours in torrents: at the foot of some of these cascades were deep cavities, or natural basins, worn in the solid rock by the falling of the water, and these were still full of the clearest cool water, in which sported small insects and animals of kinds quite unknown to me.

As we were swept up the main opening by the tide and sea-breeze its width gradually contracted, till at last we came to a small island bearing a single large mangrove tree, which we named One Tree Island. The shores now became thickly wooded with mangroves, from the boughs of which depended in clusters small but well-flavoured oysters, and soon after passing the island we found our farther progress arrested by large rounded blocks of sandstone, from amongst which fresh water came pouring in a hundred little cascades.

Beautiful ravine.

We here quitted the boat to enter a deep and picturesque ravine, of which the mean breadth was only one hundred and forty-seven feet, bounded on each side by perpendicular cliffs from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet high; in the centre ran a clear stream, sometimes forming deep and extensive pools, sometimes divided into innumerable little rills which gurgled along through a dense and matted vegetation; and bordered on each side of the main bed by a lofty species of Eucalyptus, with a bark resembling layers of coarse white paper, and a foliage pendant and graceful; whilst the great height of these trees for they raised their heads above the cliffs, contrasted strangely with the narrowness of the ravine in which they grew. The space between these trees and the cliffs was filled by a dense forest, principally composed of the Pandanus and wild nutmeg trees. Rich grasses and climbing plants occupied the interval and twined around the trees, whilst parakeets of the most vivid colours filled the wood with their cries. Nothing could be more striking than this singular and novel scene; and we were all delighted as we wound our way up the beautiful ravine.

The same character continued for the next mile or two, whilst occasionally branch valleys of similar character ran off from a main one, giving it at these points a much greater width. The summit of the cliffs was found to be generally a rocky sandy tableland, thinly wooded; and from what I had seen it appeared to me that I was not likely to find a place better adapted for landing the stores than the main ravine.

On embarking to return we could perceive no sign of One Tree Island; and as we swept down towards the sea the leafy top of a tree seen in the clear water under the boat was the only evidence of its existence; though a few hours ago it had formed so prominent an object.

Fate of two of the dogs.

The long-boat returned to the vessel half an hour after us and brought eighty gallons of water; but the spot whence it was obtained had been found very inconvenient for the purpose. At the waterhole they had met Ranger, the dog we lost the first day; but he appeared quite mad, and without recognising any of them ran wildly away into the woods. The body of poor Ringhalz was also found, who had died on the spot where he fell.

Labour of disembarking stores.

December 6.

A party landed with me soon after dawn at the same point as yesterday, for the purpose of selecting the spot at which to fix our temporary encampment. We traced the valley for about four miles through scenery precisely similar to that which we had found before; many branch valleys ran of from the main one and differed from it in no other respect but that they were much narrower. The most favourable spot I could find for our purpose was distant about half a mile from the landing-place and situated at the junction of two valleys, upon a neck of land which ran out from the base of the cliffs. This was the nearest point to the sea at which we should have been safe from any sudden inundation; it combined, moreover, the advantages of affording a good supply of food and water for the stock, of not being within reach of missiles thrown from the cliffs, and at the same time of being situated close to an easy ascent to their summit. I should have preferred pitching the encampment on the tableland at the top, but the labour of carrying the stores up so precipitous an ascent would have been too great for the men, and would have delayed our movements for a longer time than I thought prudent.

Preparations for encamping.

Having selected the point for our encampment the next task was to form a pathway to and from the landing-place; and this, on account of the rocky, broken nature of the ground, was one of no slight difficulty. We first set fire to the bush, and being thus enabled to see our way a little we commenced moving the rocks and stones, and continued this operation until near sunset, when we returned on board.

Natives seen.

December 7.

We landed again early this morning and went on working at the pathway. The men dined on shore at noon, about which time it was nearly low-water. We had repeatedly seen footmarks of the natives in the mud, and this probably was a favourite fishing resort of theirs, for this day they came upon the cliffs over our heads and shouted at us, as if to try and frighten us away. Finding however that this produced no effect, they threw down some large stones at us and then decamped.

In the course of the night (2 A.M.) we had one of those sudden heavy squalls from off the land which are so common on this coast. I slept on deck and was called to hear a loud roaring on the shore: this was evidently the noise of a rushing wind, which gradually drew nearer and nearer and at last reached us, accompanied by lightning, thunder, and heavy rain; it did not however last for more than twenty minutes, and we received no damage from it.

December 8.

Whilst the party continued the pathway I landed on the sandy beach and explored the interior of the country for several miles. We found but very little fresh water and the country was dreadfully burnt up; the heavy rain which had fallen last night however gave signs of the approach of the wet season. We passed several dry watercourses, in many of which we dug for it, but all that we obtained was brackish. We had another squall this afternoon, similar to last night’s.

Landing stock. Labour in landing stores.

December 9.

This day we pitched the tents, disembarked the sheep and goats, and some of the stores. It was no slight pleasure to see for the first time those animals landed on a new country, and they appeared themselves to rejoice in their escape from the close confinement on shipboard.

We here first hoisted the British flag, and went through the ceremony of taking possession of the territory in the name of Her Majesty and her heirs for ever.

The next few days were passed in moving the stores from the landing-place to the tent; as it was necessary that before I allowed the schooner to start we should be amply provided with all necessaries so as to be able to maintain ourselves for some time, in the event of anything happening to the vessel: this was very fatiguing work for the whole party but they all exerted themselves with the most strenuous energy, especially Mr. Lushington; and our labours were varied by several amusing novelties which relieved the monotony of the employment.

Remarkable fishes.

Sometimes as we sat at our dinner near the landing-place we watched a strange species of fish (genus Chironectes, Cuvier). These little animals are provided with arms, at least with members shaped like such as far as the elbow, but the lower part resembles a fin; they are amphibious, living equally well on the mud or in the water; in moving in the mud they walk, as it were, on their elbows, and the lower arm or fin then projects like a great splay foot; but in swimming the whole of this apparatus is used as a fin. They have also the property of being able to bury themselves almost instantaneously in the soft mud when disturbed. The uncouth gambols and leaps of these anomalous creatures were very singular.

Another remarkable fish was a species of mullet which, being left by the retreat of the high tides in the pools beyond the rounded rocks at the head of the landing-place, was obliged to change its element from salt to fresh water, which by a very remarkable habit it appeared to do without suffering any inconvenience. The natural hue of this fish was a very pale red, but when they had been for some time in the fresh water this reddish tinge became much deeper, and when of this colour I have found them in streams a considerable distance from the sea, as if, like our salmon, they had quitted it for the purpose of spawning. Indeed birds, insects, and all things we saw, were so new and singular that our attention was kept constantly excited by the varied objects which passed before us.

December 11.

I went on board in the morning for the purpose of preparing my letters, and about 10 A.M. it was reported to me that a party of natives had come down to one of the sandy beaches and were fishing there. I immediately went upon deck and saw four natives in the sea opposite to the beach, running about and fishing. Captain Browne went on shore at once with me to try and parley with them, but as we approached the land they ran away; we remained for some time on the beach and tried to follow their tracks up into the country, but could see nothing more of them.

This night at 8 P.M. we had another sudden squall from off the land, accompanied with thunder, lightning, and heavy rain; it blew so hard that we were obliged to let go the best bower anchor, but as usual it only lasted twenty minutes.

Preparations for sending the vessel to Timor.

As Mr. Lushington was to accompany the schooner to Timor, and I was anxious to ascertain which would be the best direction for us to move off in on his return, I determined to commence my exploring trips as soon as possible. All hands still continued busily engaged in landing the stores and conveying them to the tents; but though the men worked hard our progress was slow. Everything had to be carried on the men’s shoulders, for the path, after the great trouble and labour we had bestowed on it, was still so intricate and rocky that it was impossible to use even a hand-barrow. The intense heat of the sun, too, incommoded the men very much at first; but by the 16th of December all the stores were landed, and a considerable supply of water was taken off to the vessel. I determined therefore now to start in my first exploring excursion, leaving to Mr. Lushington the task of seeing the watering of the schooner completed before he left for Timor.