NATIVES SEEN.
Sunday December 17.
This morning directly after breakfast
I read prayers to the men, and then commenced my preparations
for the excursion on which I intended to start in
the evening. Whilst I was occupied in arranging
my papers Mr. Lushington observed two natives sitting
on the rocks on the top of the cliffs which overlooked
the valley, and gazing down intently on us. The
instant that he made friendly signs to them they rose
from their seats and began to retreat. Some of
the party then called to them and one of the natives
answered; but they still moved rapidly away. I
would not allow them to be followed for fear of increasing
their alarm, and in the hope that they would return,
but was disappointed. It must have awakened strange
feelings in the breast of these two savages, who could
never before have seen civilized man, thus to have
sat spectators and overlookers of the every action
of such incomprehensible beings as we must have appeared;
and the relation to their comrades of the wonders
they had witnessed could not have been to them a whit
less marvellous than the tales of the grey-headed
Irish peasant, when he recounts the freaks of the
fairies, “whose midnight revels by the forest
side or fountain” he has watched intently from
some shrub-clad hill.
Commencement of first excursion.
I started in the evening, accompanied
by Corporal John Coles and Private R. Mustard, both
of the corps of Royal Sappers and Miners, and for a
short distance by two or three others of the party
from the camp. We moved up the ravine in which
we were encamped in a nearly due south direction,
and after following this course about a mile turned
up a branch ravine to the left, bearing 87 degrees
from the north.
Character of the scenery.
Geological phenomena.
The romantic scenery of this narrow
glen could not be surpassed. Its width at bottom
was not more than forty or fifty feet, on each side
rose cliffs of sandstone between three and four hundred
feet high and nearly perpendicular; lofty paper-bark
trees grew here and there, and down the middle ran
a beautiful stream of clear, cool water, which now
gushed along, a murmuring mountain torrent, and anon
formed a series of small cascades. As we ascended
higher the width contracted; the paper-bark trees
disappeared; and the bottom of the valley became thickly
wooded with wild nutmeg and other fragrant trees.
Cockatoos soared, with hoarse screams, above us, many-coloured
parakeets darted away, filling the woods with their
playful cries, and the large white pigeons which feed
on the wild nutmegs cooed loudly to their mates, and
battered the boughs with their wings as they flew
away.
The spot I chose to halt at for the
night was at the foot of a lofty precipice of rocks,
from which a spring gushed forth. Those who had
accompanied us from the camp now returned, leaving
me and the two soldiers alone and about to penetrate
some distance into an utterly unknown country.
We were each provided with ten days’ provisions
and, confident in the steadiness and courage of my
men, I had not the slightest anxiety feeling
that as long as we maintained a cool and determined
bearing the natives would make no attacks upon us that
we could not repel.
We soon erected a little hut of bark,
then kindled a fire and cooked our supper, consisting
of tea and two white pigeons which we had shot; and
by the time our repast was finished it was nearly
dark. My companions laid down to sleep:
I remained up for a short time to think alone in the
wilderness, and then followed their example.
Ascent of A glen.
December 18.
At break of day we were again upon
our route, which lay up the valley we had slept in;
but, as each of us carried ten days’ provisions
and a day’s water, besides our arms, the progress
we made in a tropical climate, when thus laden, was
necessarily slow and laborious; but the beauty of the
landscape and the solicitude we all felt to see more
of this unexplored land cheered us on.
Tableland at the summit.
Having at length reached the tableland
which this valley drained we found ourselves in the
midst of a forest, differing widely from anything we
had before seen. The soil beneath our feet was
sandy and thickly clothed with spinifex (a prickly
grass) which in spite of our thick trousers slightly
but continually wounded our legs. The trees were
lofty and some of them of considerable circumference;
but the trunks of all were charred and blackened by
constant fires: this circumstance, and their slight
and thin, yet strikingly graceful foliage, gave them
a most picturesque appearance.
Every here and there in the wood rose
lofty and isolated pinnacles of sandstone rock, fantastic
in form, and frequently overgrown with graceful creeping
and climbing plants which imparted to them a somewhat
of mystery and elegance. In other parts rose
the gigantic ant-hills so much spoken of by former
visitors of these shores; and in the distance we saw
occasionally the forms of the timid kangaroos, who
stole fearfully away from the unknown disturbers of
their solitude.
Another valley.
But when we arrived at the extremity
of the tableland I felt somewhat disappointed at beholding
a deep narrow ravine at my feet, precisely resembling
in character the one we had left, and beyond this a
second sandstone range, wooded as that on which we
stood; in about half an hour we gained the bottom
of the ravine and found that a rapid stream ran through
it, which, being the first we had discovered, I named
the Lushington, after the father of my associate in
this expedition, and in accordance with a determination
I had made before starting.
Mustard (one of the men with me) being
ill, I determined to halt here for breakfast and,
having completed this meal, I was sorry to find that
he was still too unwell to proceed; such however being
the case I was compelled to halt for the day:
leaving Coles therefore to take care of him, I strolled
off to explore the valley alone. Except in being
much larger it differed in no respect from the first
in which we encamped, and I found that within about
half a mile below the spot where I had left the men
it terminated in a salt-water inlet, nearly choked
up with mangroves. On returning to them
I found Mustard somewhat better; to our annoyance
however heavy rain set in, accompanied by thunder and
lightning; and as we had no shelter but what some
overhanging rocks afforded us we passed a very uncomfortable
night.
December 19.
Mustard was still not quite well;
we therefore started late and travelled slowly, keeping
nearly in a south-east direction. We thus gradually
ascended the second sandstone range, the summit of
which was a tableland, at this point about half a
mile wide.
Geological phenomena.
We here remarked a very curious circumstance.
Several acres of land on this elevated position were
nearly covered with lofty isolated sandstone pillars
of the most grotesque and fantastic shapes, from which
the imagination might easily have pictured to itself
forms equally singular and amusing. In one place
was a regular unroofed aisle, with a row of massive
pillars on each side; and in another there stood upon
a pedestal what appeared to be the legs of an ancient
statue, from which the body had been knocked away.
Some of these time-worn columns were
covered with sweet-smelling creepers, while their
bases were concealed by a dense vegetation, which
added much to their very singular appearance.
The height of two or three which I measured was upwards
of forty feet; and, as the tops of all of them were
nearly upon the same level, that of the surrounding
country must at one period have been as high as their
present summits, probably much higher.
From the top of one of these pillars
I surveyed the surrounding country and saw on every
side proofs of the same extensive degradation so
extensive, indeed, that I found it very difficult to
account for; but the gurgling of water, which I heard
beneath me, soon put an end to the state of perplexity
in which I was involved, for I ascertained that streams
were running in the earth beneath my feet; and, on
descending and creeping into a fissure in the rocks,
I found beneath the surface a cavern precisely resembling
the remains that existed above ground, only that this
was roofed, whilst through it ran a small stream which
in the rainy season must become a perfect torrent.
It was now evident to me that ere many years had elapsed
the roof would give way, and what now were the buttresses
of dark and gloomy caverns would emerge into day and
become columns clad in green, and resplendent in the
bright sunshine.
Gradual degradation of the land.
In this state they would gradually
waste away beneath the ever-during influence of atmospheric
causes, and the material being then carried down by
the streams, through a series of caverns resembling
those of which they once formed a portion, would be
swept out into the ocean and deposited on sandbanks,
to be raised again, at some remote epoch, a new continent,
built up with the ruins of an ancient world.
I subsequently, during the season
of the heavy rains, remarked the usual character of
the mountain streams to be that they rose at the foot
of some little elevation which stood upon a lofty
tableland composed of sandstone, then flowed in a
sandy bed for a short distance and afterwards mysteriously
sank in the cracks and crevices made in the rocks from
atmospheric influences, and did not again reappear
until they had reached the foot of the precipice which
terminated the tableland whence they sprang; here
they came foaming out in a rapid stream which had
undoubtedly worked strange havoc in the porous sandstone
rocks among which it held its subterraneous course.
What the amount of sand annually carried
down from the north-western portion of Australia into
the ocean may be we have no means whatever of ascertaining;
that it is sufficient to form beds of sand of very
great magnitude is attested by the existence of numerous
and extensive sandbanks all along the coast.
One single heavy tropical shower of only a few hours’
duration washed down, over a plot of ground which was
planted with barley, a bed of sand nearly five inches
deep, which the succeeding showers again swept off,
carrying it further upon its way towards the sea.
The space of ground covered with these
columns gradually contracted its dimensions as we
proceeded; the columns themselves became nearer and
nearer to each other until they at length formed walls
of cliffs on each side of us, and we finally reached
a point where a single lofty pillar, standing in front
of a dry cascade, formed the centre of an amphitheatre
of sandstone. There was some water in a little
natural basin at the base of the cliffs. I determined
therefore to halt here for breakfast and, leaving
the men at the foot of the cascade to prepare some
tea, I clambered to its summit, and found myself on
another tableland similar to that which I had just
left, and covered in the same manner with natural
columns.
Sandstone caverns.
Some distance from the top of the
cascade I discovered a cavern, or rather huge hole
in the water-course, into which, thinking it might
contain fossil bones, I descended as far as the first
ledge, and I then perceived that the water pouring
through this cavern in the rainy season was cutting
off another rock of sandstone similar to the remarkable
pillar in front of the cascade. The water in the
basin below must have filtered out from this cavern.
On a further examination I found that a precisely
similar series of operations was going on throughout
the whole amphitheatre of cliffs which bounded the
tableland we had been traversing during the morning.
In the rainy season (March 7th) I
again passed this spot and found the watercourse full
of water, which was also falling abundantly from the
cascade. From this circumstance I inferred that
the subterraneous outlets for the water were all filled,
consequently the large body which these caverns would
contain must have been then endeavouring to force its
way through the fissures in the porous sandstone rocks.
Continuation of route. Halt
in A valley.
After breakfast we continued on our
route through a sandstone country precisely resembling
the one which I have now described, and in the course
of the day, having completed fifteen miles in a straight
line, we halted for the night in a fertile valley
affording plenty of fresh water, and so densely wooded
with the dwarf pandanus and other prickly trees
that we could scarcely make our way through the underwood.
In this valley we saw several sorts of cranes, principally
Ardea antigone, and Ardea scolopacia, and
I shot one of the former kind and laid it by, intending
to eat it in the morning. We could not find any
holes in the rocks large enough to protect us from
the rain, which fell throughout the night, accompanied
by thunder and lightning.
December 20.
Just as we turned out this morning
a large kangaroo came close to us to drink at a waterhole;
the effect as it stole along through the thick bushes
in the morning twilight was very striking. I could
not succeed in getting a shot at it; but, as I was
determined to have a meat breakfast, I desired Mustard
to cook the crane, the rats however had eaten the
greater part of it; we therefore at once moved on and,
after travelling four miles in a south-east direction
over good land, we reached a valley, the largest and
best I had yet seen, containing trees and birds such
as we had not before met with; kangaroos were more
plentiful, and, for the first time, we saw the opossum.
The valley was more than a mile in width at the point
where we first made it, and we had but just time to
cross it and to gain the partial shelter of some rocks
when heavy rain again set in. We could keep no
fire and, being soon wet through, passed a wretched
night.
December 21.
We all today began to feel the want
of food; since Sunday night we had subsisted on nothing
but rice and tea, and only in very small quantities
at a time, as the heavy rain had materially interrupted
our cooking. As there was plenty of game in this
valley I determined to halt for a day previously to
my return to the party, for the double purpose of exploring
the valley and of shooting game.
Cuckoo-pheasant.
The large bird which was the most
abundant here was the Cuculus phasianus or pheasant
cuckoo. This bird in colour, in length of tail,
in its size, and general appearance so closely resembles
the hen pheasant of England that, when it is on the
wing, it is almost impossible to tell the difference;
its habits and food are also identical with that of
the English pheasant. The chief point of distinction
is that its toes point two before and two behind,
in the same manner as those of a parrot; but what
is very remarkable about this bird is that, although,
like the other Scansores, it delights in climbing
and running up trees, it is equally fond of running
along the ground in the manner a pheasant does.
Sporting.
This day I found plenty of these birds
in a cover of long dry grass and bushes about half
my height. From this kind of ground I descended
to deep lagoons in the bottoms, with rushes, reeds,
and dense tropical vegetation around them, amongst
which the bamboo and pandanus bore a conspicuous
figure; as I beat this cover the pheasants, with their
whirring noise, rose on all sides of me, and my Westley
Richards was kept in constant operation. I never
enjoyed a better day’s pheasant shooting in any
preserve in England; and I may here remark that North-Western
Australia is as good a country for sport in the shooting
way as I am acquainted with; whilst for every kind
of sport except wild-fowl shooting the southern part
of Australia is the worst country in the world.
My bag being full, and my companions very hungry,
I had no excuse for staying longer away from them,
and therefore returned, although very loth to leave
such beautiful scenery and such excellent sport.
Fertile country descried.
In the interval between the showers,
and whilst the men were trying to kindle a fire, I
ascended a sandstone range under the shelter of some
rocks near the summit of which we were encamped; from
this elevated position I saw a far better country
to the south of us than any we had yet traversed;
and the prospect was so cheering in this direction
that I felt assured, when it was once gained with
the horses, we should be able to travel on with comparative
rapidity and facility.
Native haunts.
Having emptied my bag I started again
to commence the exploration of the valley we were
in. It sloped first in a north-easterly and then
in a nearly easterly direction; the river that ran
through it was in some places almost dry, or was rather
a chain of large ponds than a river, several of these
ponds being more than a hundred yards across.
I followed the valley down for about five miles in
the direction of Prince Regent’s River and found
to my surprise that this part was by no means thinly
inhabited by natives; still, as none of the traces
I had yet seen were very recent, I trusted that we
should not fall in with any considerable body.
Traces of natives.
At length however I came upon a spot
which a number of them appeared to have quitted only
an hour or two before, and where they had been sitting
under a large tree at the edge of one of these ponds;
their recent fire had been first slaked with water
and sand then thrown over it. I knew therefore
that they had been disturbed, and most probably by
my gun; but not before they had made a hearty meal
of roasted fresh-water mussels (unios) and nuts of
a kind which grew on a large shady tree in pods, like
a tamarind pod, the kernel being contained in a shell,
of which each pod held several, and the fruit tasting
exactly like filberts. The spot was admirably
suited for their purpose; their bark beds were placed
under the shelter of this tree and only a few yards
distant from the pond, which contained abundance of
large unios.
Attack of natives.
I sat down under the nut tree to consider
what was my best plan to adopt. From the signs
around us the natives were evidently much more numerous
than I had expected: in the event of anything
happening to one of the three our return to the main
party might be considerably impeded, if not altogether
prevented; and although, from the superiority of our
weapons over theirs, I entertained but little doubt
as to the issue of any contest we might be forced
into, the calls of humanity as well is of personal
interest warned me to do my utmost to avoid an affray.
Return towards Hanover bay.
I returned therefore to the party
and, having made our dinner from pheasant soup and
birds which had been first split in two and then nicely
roasted on the ashes, we commenced our journey homewards,
cautiously and circumspectly, that we might run no
risk of being surprised. Until the evening began
to close upon us we pursued our route through scenery
similar to that we had passed the day before, our course
laying several miles to the northward of our former
track; and when we halted for the night I carefully
chose a good position and, mentioning my apprehensions
concerning the natives to the men in such a way as
to put them on their guard without exciting their
alarm, we bivouacked for the night. Soon after
sunset the thunderstorms of the previous evening were
renewed, accompanied by tremendous rain. This
was unfortunate as it rendered it nearly impossible
for us to keep our arms in an efficient state.
December 22.
After passing a wretched and uncomfortable
night we started before dawn, pursuing a direction
about west by north, and passed one of the openings
from Prince Regent’s River laid down in Captain
King’s chart, and there left without a termination,
which I had thus an opportunity of fixing. Having
completed about six miles I halted for breakfast.
No signs whatever of the natives had been again seen;
this restored my confidence and, as the sun was intensely
hot and we were much fatigued, we lay about in rather
a careless and imprudent way. Fortunately the
gathering clouds prognosticated that we should soon
have rain; and, as we could get no good shelter where
we were, I ordered the men to move on: we had
just gained the top of the range when a violent storm
of rain overtook us, I therefore doubled back about
a hundred yards to the left of our former track to
gain some rocks forming a portion of a detached group
upon a tableland, and which I had observed as we passed
them.
Attacked by natives.
Scarcely had we reached these rocks,
and sheltered ourselves under the overhanging projections,
when I saw a savage advancing with a spear in his
right hand, and a bundle of similar weapons in his
left; he was followed by a party of thirteen others,
and with them was a small dog not of the kind common
to this country. The men were curiously painted
for war, red being the predominant colour, and each
man carried several spears, a rowing stick, and a
club. Their chief was in front, and distinguished
by his hair being of a dark red colour from some composition
with which it was smeared; the others followed him
close, noiselessly, and with stealthy pace, one by
one, whilst he, crouching almost to the earth, pricked
off our trail.
We remained concealed and motionless
until they had all passed, but the moment they came
to where we had turned off they discovered our retreat,
and raised loud shouts of triumph, as, forming themselves
into a semicircle, they advanced upon us, brandishing
their spears and bounding from rock to rock.
It was in vain that I made friendly signs and gestures,
they still closed upon us, and to my surprise I heard
their war-cry answered by a party who were coming
over the high rocks in our rear, which I had flattered
myself protected us in that direction.
Our situation was now so critical
that I was compelled to assume a hostile attitude.
I therefore shouted in answer to their cries and,
desiring the men to fire one at a time if I gave the
word, I advanced rapidly, at the same time firing
one barrel over their heads. This had the desired
effect. With the exception of one more resolute
than the rest they fled on all sides, and he, finding
his efforts unavailing, soon followed their example.
Return to the encampment.
Hanover bay.
Feeling however that the neighbourhood
we were in was a dangerous one, and being anxious
to know whether the party I had left at the encampment only
six in number had seen these natives, I
hurried our march, although the rain fell in torrents
all day; and we that night made the camp.
Proceedings there during my absence.
I found the party all in good health
and spirits: they had seen nothing whatever of
the natives during my absence. The sailing of
the Lynher had been unfortunately delayed until the
21st of December. On the 18th and 19th the tides
had been so low that, although Mr. Lushington had done
his utmost, the schooner made little or no progress
in her watering. On the 20th the crew and whole
party were employed; yet they only succeeded in getting
off 280 gallons for they were obliged to carry the
water in small baricos to the boat, over slippery
rocks and deep mud: and on the 21st, thinking
it better to complete their water at Timor, they set
sail. This difficulty of watering only arose
from the lowness of the tides (neap) and our ignorance
of the country. Subsequently we found no difficulty
in procuring it; indeed no country in the world is
better watered than this portion of Australia.
Since the sailing of the Lynher the
party had been actively engaged in building a shed
for the stores. This labour was still continued,
after my arrival, and completed on Christmas eve.
Christmas dinner.
On Christmas Day we all dined together
in a little booth made of boughs, which we dressed
up as gaily as we could. I could not but feel
considerable pleasure in seeing the happy countenances
of the men ranged round the rough plank that formed
our table. We sat down, a little band of nine,
bound upon an adventure of which the issue to any and
all of us was very uncertain: yet no forebodings
appeared to damp the pleasure of the present moment;
and as I anxiously looked round I could not detect
the slightest trace of a gloomy thought in any of the
cheerful faces that surrounded me. After dinner
we drank the Queen’s health, the first time
such a toast had been given in these regions; and then,
Mr. Walker and myself retiring to talk alone, left
the rest to their own amusements.
1838.
Planting useful seeds.
The interval between that and New
Year’s Day found and left us full of occupation.
On this latter day I had resolved to do homage to the
country by a seasonable gift; and therefore, rising
with the earliest dawn, spent the whole day in planting,
in various positions, seeds of the most useful fruits
and vegetables. Those we had already planted were
doing well, and I hoped that this benefaction might
prove one of no small value, perhaps to civilized
man, or at least to the natives of the vicinity.
Walk to Munster water.
January 4.
A party of us this day walked to Hanover
Bay for the purpose of making some observations on
the sandy beach there, after which we went over to
Prince Regent’s River, near Munster Water.
The country until near the bank of the river at this
point was of the same sandy nature as that about the
beach: there however it improves; and from the
circumstance of my finding a regular haunt of the
natives I feel sure that there is plenty of fresh
water in the neighbourhood. This place of their
sojourn resembled one before described, and many others
I had seen. An extensive circle was formed by
laying a large flat stone upon the ground, and on
each of these a smaller one; between the two they evidently
crushed the shellfish and nuts which formed their
food. Near some of the stones were laid huge
shells for the purpose of drinking from; and in the
centre of the circle were the marks of frequent fires.
We heard the natives calling to one another in the
woods, but saw none of them; and in the evening returned
to our encampment.
Isthmus near Hanover bay.
January 6.
I made an excursion this day for the
purpose of examining the land lying between Port George
the Fourth and Hanover Bay: it consists of a low
neck which connects the peninsula terminating in High
Bluff Point with the main. Thus it is bounded
on two sides by the sea, and on the other two by rocky
hills which are perfectly precipitous, both towards
the main and the peninsula; but a natural terrace
runs along under the cliff in the direction of Camden
Sound, which I believe would form a good road to that
harbour. The tract thus enclosed appears to be
very fertile. Porphyry and basalt are the common
rocks. The soil is rich vegetable mould, mixed
with gravel and covered with the most luxuriant grass.
The trees were in general small. We only found
three springs here; these however were sufficient
to prove that it was well supplied in this respect.
A species of plant was observed here, which in appearance
and smell exactly resembled the jasmine of England:
and it would be difficult to give any adequate impression
of the singular sensation of pleasure derived from
the sight of this simple emblem of home. Here
were regular beaten tracks of the natives, as completely
pathways as those we find in England leading from
a village to a farmhouse.
Hill of shells.
Near the sea we also came upon a complete
hill of broken shells, which it must have taken some
centuries to form, for it covered nearly, if not quite,
half an acre of ground, and in some places was ten
feet high: it was situated just over a bed of
cockles, and was evidently formed from the remains
of native feasts, as their fireplaces, and the last
small heaps of shells were visible on the summit of
the hill. This neck of land is undoubtedly of the
first importance; for, lying as it does between Port
George the Fourth and Hanover Bay, it commands two
excellent harbours, and its soil is moreover highly
fertile. I conceive that a point nearer Camden
Bay would be of greater consequence to the mother
country; but, after such a spot, this neck of land
is the most important position on the North-west coast
of Australia.
(Footnote. A similar mass
of shells, though of smaller dimensions, is spoken
of by Captain King, at Port Essington: A curious
mound, constructed entirely of shells, rudely heaped
together, measuring thirty feet in diameter, and fourteen
feet high, was also noticed near the beach, and was
supposed to be a burying-place of the Indians.
King’s Australia volume 1 page 87.)
For some days after our return from
this excursion all hands were occupied in drying the
stores, which had suffered a little from the late
rains; in planting barley and potatoes; and in a variety
of occupations of the same nature.
Excursion to country about Prince
regent’s river.
As all the necessary magnetic and
astronomical observations were now completed I seized
the opportunity offered by the first favourable day
and started with a party of three in the direction
of Prince Regent’s River.
We made the river about Halfway Bay,
and then followed its course, keeping about a mile
or two inland. A considerable portion of the land
in the neighbourhood of the river was most excellent,
consisting of rich meadow plains. The general
proportion of good country compared with the bad was
still however but small.
Gouty-stemmed trees.
There was a very remarkable feature
in the appearance of this part of the country, caused
by the number of gouty stemmed trees (a species of
Capparis ?) These trees grow to a considerable
height, and had the appearance of suffering from some
disease, but, from the circumstance of all of them
being affected in the same way, this was undoubtedly
their natural state. I measured one of the largest
I here saw, and found that at eighteen inches above
the ground its circumference was about twenty-eight
feet six inches.
The foliage of this tree was slight
but graceful, and it was loaded with a fruit of an
elliptical form, as large as a coconut. This fruit
was enclosed in a rind, closely resembling that of
the almond, and inside the rind was a shell containing
a soft white pulp, in which were placed a species
of almond, very palatable to the taste, and arranged
in this pulp much in the manner in which the seeds
are placed in the pomegranate. Upon the bark
of these trees being cut they yielded in small quantities
a nutritious white gum, which both in taste and appearance
resembles macaroni; and upon this bark being soaked
in hot water an agreeable mucilaginous drink was produced.
This tree is, from this combination
of useful qualities, a vegetable production of no
slight value, and probably comes near the cocoa-nut
tree in value. Its worth is well known to the
natives for its vicinity is one of their favourite
haunts. Around nearly all of them I have found
marks of their fires, and on many of these trees were
several successive rows of notches, formed in this
manner:
All but the last row being invariably
scratched out. These rows of notches were evidently
of different ages, and I imagine must indicate the
number of nuts taken each year from the tree. I often
also found rude drawings scratched upon the trees,
but none of these sketches indicated anything but
a very ordinary degree of talent, even for a savage:
some were so imperfect that it was impossible to tell
what they were meant to represent.
(Footnote. This tree was also
observed on this part of the continent by Captain
King, who met with it both at Cambridge Gulf and Careening
Bay, and describes it as follows: Mr. Cunningham
was fortunate in finding the fruit of the tree that
was first seen by us at Cambridge Gulf, and had for
some time puzzled us from its immense size and peculiar
appearance. It proved to be a tree of the Natural
Order Capparides, and was thought to be a Capparis;
the gouty habit of the stem, which was soft and spongy,
gave it an appearance of disease; but as all the specimens,
from the youngest plant to the full-grown tree, possessed
the same deformed appearance, it was evidently the
peculiarity of its habit. The stem of the largest
of these trees measured twenty-nine feet in girt, whilst
its height did not exceed twenty-five feet. It
bore some resemblance to the Adansonia figured in
the account of Captain Tuckey’s expedition to
Congo. King’s Australia volume 1 page 423.)
Singular pieces of sandstone.
I this day again remarked a circumstance
which had before this period elicited my attention;
which was that we occasionally found fixed in the
boughs of trees, at a considerable height from the
ground, pieces of sandstone, nearly circular in form,
about an inch and a half in thickness, and from four
to five in diameter, so that they resembled small
millstones. What was the object in thus fashioning
and placing these stones I never could conceive, for
they were generally in the least remarkable spots:
they cannot point out burial places, for I have made
such minute searches that in such a case I must have
found some of the bones; neither can they indicate
any peculiar route through the country, for two never
occur near one another.
Preparation to build A boat.
On my return to the camp I found that
the schooner had not yet arrived; I now began to fear
that some accident had occurred, and made my preparations
accordingly. The party was fully prepared to meet
such a misfortune and, as we had the means of constructing
a boat large enough to take us to Swan River, I felt
more anxious for the safety of those in the vessel
than for our own. That no time however might be
lost I examined the neighbourhood of the encampment
and found that within our immediate vicinity were
plenty of trees well adapted for the purpose, which
I marked, and had some of them felled.