He told the doctor he was due in the
bar-room at eight o’clock in the morning; the
bar-room was in a slum in the Bowery; and he had only
been able to keep himself in health by getting up
at five o’clock and going for long walks in
the Central Park.
“A sea voyage is what you want,”
said the doctor. “Why not go to Ireland
for two or three months? You will come back a
new man.”
“I’d like to see Ireland again.”
And then he began to wonder how the
people at home were getting on. The doctor was
right. He thanked him, and three weeks afterwards
he landed in Cork.
As he sat in the railway carriage
he recalled his native village he could
see it and its lake, and then the fields one by one,
and the roads. He could see a large piece of
rocky land some three or four hundred acres
of headland stretching out into the winding lake.
Upon this headland the peasantry had been given permission
to build their cabins by former owners of the Georgian
house standing on the pleasant green hill. The
present owners considered the village a disgrace, but
the villagers paid high rents for their plots of ground,
and all the manual labour that the Big House required
came from the village: the gardeners, the stable
helpers, the house and the kitchen maids.
He had been thirteen years in America,
and when the train stopped at his station, he looked
round to sec if there were any changes in it.
It was just the same blue limestone station-house
as it was thirteen years ago. The platform and
the sheds were the same, and there were five miles
of road from the station to Duncannon. The sea
voyage had done him good, but five miles were too
far for him to-day; the last time he had walked the
road, he had walked it in an hour and a half, carrying
a heavy bundle on a stick.
He was sorry he did not feel strong
enough for the walk; the evening was fine, and he
would meet many people coming home from the fair, some
of whom he had known in his youth, and they would tell
him where he could get a clean lodging. But the
carman would be able to tell him that; he called the
car that was waiting at the station, and soon he was
answering questions about America. But Bryden
wanted to hear of those who were still living in the
old country, and after hearing the stories of many
people he had forgotten, he heard that Mike Scully,
who had been away in a situation for many years as
a coachman in the King’s County, had come back
and built a fine house with a concrete floor.
Now there was a good loft in Mike Scully’s house,
and Mike would be pleased to take in a lodger.
Bryden remembered that Mike had been
in a situation at the Big House; he had intended to
be a jockey, but had suddenly shot up into a fine
tall man, and had had to become a coachman instead.
Bryden tried to recall the face, but he could only
remember a straight nose, and a somewhat dusky complexion.
Mike was one of the heroes of his childhood, and his
youth floated before him, and he caught glimpses of
himself, something that was more than a phantom and
less than a reality. Suddenly his reverie was
broken: the carman pointed with his whip, and
Bryden saw a tall, finely-built, middle-aged man coming
through the gates, and the driver said:
“There’s Mike Scully.”
Mike had forgotten Bryden even more
completely than Bryden had forgotten him, and many
aunts and uncles were mentioned before he began to
understand.
“You’ve grown into a fine
man, James,” he said, looking at Bryden’s
great width of chest. “But you are thin
in the cheeks, and you’re sallow in the cheeks
too.”
“I haven’t been very well
lately that is one of the reasons I have
come back; but I want to see you all again.”
Bryden paid the carman, wished him
“God-speed,” and he and Mike divided the
luggage between them, Mike carrying the bag and Bryden
the bundle, and they walked round the lake, for the
townland was at the back of the demesne; and while
they walked, James proposed to pay Mike ten shillings
a week for his board and lodging.
He remembered the woods thick and
well-forested; now they were windworn, the drains
were choked, and the bridge leading across the lake
inlet was falling away. Their way led between
long fields where herds of cattle were grazing; the
road was broken Bryden wondered how the
villagers drove their carts over it, and Mike told
him that the landlord could not keep it in repair,
and he would not allow it to be kept in repair out
of the rates, for then it would be a public road,
and he did not think there should be a public road
through his property.
At the end of many fields they came
to the village, and it looked a desolate place, even
on this fine evening, and Bryden remarked that the
county did not seem to be as much lived in as it used
to be. It was at once strange and familiar to
see the chickens in the kitchen; and, wishing to re-knit
himself to the old habits, he begged of Mrs. Scully
not to drive them out, saying he did not mind them.
Mike told his wife that Bryden was born in Duncannon,
and when he mentioned Bryden’s name she gave
him her hand, after wiping it in her apron, saying
he was heartily welcome, only she was afraid he would
not care to sleep in a loft.
“Why wouldn’t I sleep
in a loft, a dry loft! You’re thinking a
good deal of America over here,” said he, “but
I reckon it isn’t all you think it. Here
you work when you like and you sit down when you like;
but when you have had a touch of blood-poisoning as
I had, and when you have seen young people walking
with a stick, you think that there is something to
be said for old Ireland.”
“Now won’t you be taking
a sup of milk? You’ll be wanting a drink
after travelling,” said Mrs. Scully.
And when he had drunk the milk Mike
asked him if he would like to go inside or if he would
like to go for a walk.
“Maybe it is sitting down you would like to
be.”
And they went into the cabin, and
started to talk about the wages a man could get in
America, and the long hours of work.
And after Bryden had told Mike everything
about America that he thought would interest him,
he asked Mike about Ireland. But Mike did not
seem to be able to tell him much that was of interest.
They were all very poor poorer, perhaps,
than when he left them.
“I don’t think anyone
except myself has a five pound note to his name.”
Bryden hoped he felt sufficiently
sorry for Mike. But after all Mike’s life
and prospects mattered little to him. He had come
back in search of health; and he felt better already;
the milk had done him good, and the bacon and cabbage
in the pot sent forth a savoury odour. The Scullys
were very kind, they pressed him to make a good meal;
a few weeks of country air and food, they said, would
give him back the health he had lost in the Bowery;
and when Bryden said he was longing for a smoke, Mike
said there was no better sign than that. During
his long illness he had never wanted to smoke, and
he was a confirmed smoker.
It was comfortable to sit by the mild
peat fire watching the smoke of their pipes drifting
up the chimney, and all Bryden wanted was to be let
alone; he did not want to hear of anyone’s misfortunes,
but about nine o’clock a number of villagers
came in, and their appearance was depressing.
Bryden remembered one or two of them he
used to know them very well when he was a boy; their
talk was as depressing as their appearance, and he
could feel no interest whatever in them. He was
not moved when he heard that Higgins the stone-mason
was dead; he was not affected when he heard that Mary
Kelly, who used to go to do the laundry at the Big
House, had married; he was only interested when he
heard she had gone to America. No, he had not
met her there, America is a big place. Then one
of the peasants asked him if he remembered Patsy Carabine,
who used to do the gardening at the Big House.
Yes, he remembered Patsy well. Patsy was in the
poor-house. He had not been able to do any work
on account of his arm; his house had fallen in; he
had given up his holding and gone into the poor-house.
All this was very sad, and to avoid hearing any further
unpleasantness, Bryden began to tell them about America.
And they sat round listening to him; but all the talking
was on his side; he wearied of it; and looking round
the group he recognised a ragged hunchback with grey
hair; twenty years ago he was a young hunchback, and,
turning to him, Bryden asked him if he were doing
well with his five acres.
“Ah, not much. This has
been a bad season. The potatoes failed; they
were watery there is no diet in them.”
These peasants were all agreed that
they could make nothing out of their farms. Their
regret was that they had not gone to America when
they were young; and after striving to take an interest
in the fact that O’Connor had lost a mare and
foal worth forty pounds Bryden began to wish himself
back in the slum. And when they left the house
he wondered if every evening would be like the present
one. Mike piled fresh sods on the fire, and he
hoped it would show enough light in the loft for Bryden
to undress himself by.
The cackling of some geese in the
road kept him awake, and the loneliness of the country
seemed to penetrate to his bones, and to freeze the
marrow in them. There was a bat in the loft a
dog howled in the distance and then he
drew the clothes over his head. Never had he
been so unhappy, and the sound of Mike breathing by
his wife’s side in the kitchen added to his
nervous terror. Then he dozed a little; and lying
on his back he dreamed he was awake, and the men he
had seen sitting round the fireside that evening seemed
to him like spectres come out of some unknown region
of morass and reedy tarn. He stretched out his
hands for his clothes, determined to fly from this
house, but remembering the lonely road that led to
the station he fell back on his pillow. The geese
still cackled, but he was too tired to be kept awake
any longer. He seemed to have been asleep only
a few minutes when he heard Mike calling him.
Mike had come half way up the ladder and was telling
him that breakfast was ready. “What kind
of breakfast will he give me?” Bryden asked
himself as he pulled on his clothes. There were
tea and hot griddle cakes for breakfast, and there
were fresh eggs; there was sunlight in the kitchen
and he liked to hear Mike tell of the work he was
going to do in the fields. Mike rented a farm
of about fifteen acres, at least ten of it was grass;
he grew an acre of potatoes and some corn, and some
turnips for his sheep. He had a nice bit of meadow,
and he took down his scythe, and as he put the whetstone
in his belt Bryden noticed a second scythe, and he
asked Mike if he should go down with him and help
him to finish the field.
“You haven’t done any
mowing this many a year; I don’t think you’d
be of much help. You’d better go for a
walk by the lake, but you may come in the afternoon
if you like and help to turn the grass over.”
Bryden was afraid he would find the
lake shore very lonely, but the magic of returning
health is the sufficient distraction for the convalescent,
and the morning passed agreeably. The weather
was still and sunny. He could hear the ducks
in the reeds. The hours dreamed themselves away,
and it became his habit to go to the lake every morning.
One morning he met the landlord, and they walked together,
talking of the country, of what it had been, and the
ruin it was slipping into. James Bryden told
him that ill health had brought him back to Ireland;
and the landlord lent him his boat, and Bryden rowed
about the islands, and resting upon his oars he looked
at the old castles, and remembered the pre-historic
raiders that the landlord had told him about.
He came across the stones to which the lake dwellers
had tied their boats, and these signs of ancient Ireland
were pleasing to Bryden in his present mood.
As well as the great lake there was
a smaller lake in the bog where the villagers cut
their turf. This lake was famous for its pike,
and the landlord allowed Bryden to fish there, and
one evening when he was looking for a frog with which
to bait his line he met Margaret Dirken driving home
the cows for the milking. Margaret was the herdsman’s
daughter, and she lived in a cottage near the Big House;
but she came up to the village whenever there was
a dance, and Bryden had found himself opposite to
her in the reels. But until this evening he had
had little opportunity of speaking to her, and he
was glad to speak to someone, for the evening was
lonely, and they stood talking together.
“You’re getting your health
again,” she said. “You’ll soon
be leaving us.”
“I’m in no hurry.”
“You’re grand people over
there; I hear a man is paid four dollars a day for
his work.”
“And how much,” said James,
“has he to pay for his food and for his clothes?”
Her cheeks were bright and her teeth
small, white and beautifully even; and a woman’s
soul looked at Bryden out of her soft Irish eyes.
He was troubled and turned aside, and catching sight
of a frog looking at him out of a tuft of grass he
said:
“I have been looking for a frog
to put upon my pike line.”
The frog jumped right and left, and
nearly escaped in some bushes, but he caught it and
returned with it in his hand.
“It is just the kind of frog
a pike will like,” he said. “Look
at its great white belly and its bright yellow back.”
And without more ado he pushed the
wire to which the hook was fastened through the frog’s
fresh body, and dragging it through the mouth he passed
the hooks through the hind legs and tied the line to
the end of the wire.
“I think,” said Margaret,
“I must be looking after my cows; it’s
time I got them home.”
“Won’t you come down to the lake while
I set my line?”
She thought for a moment and said:
“No, I’ll see you from here.”
He went down to the reedy tarn, and
at his approach several snipe got up, and they flew
above his head uttering sharp cries. His fishing-rod
was a long hazel stick, and he threw the frog as far
as he could into the lake. In doing this he roused
some wild ducks; a mallard and two ducks got up, and
they flew towards the larger lake. Margaret watched
them; they flew in a line with an old castle; and they
had not disappeared from view when Bryden came towards
her, and he and she drove the cows home together that
evening.
They had not met very often when she
said, “James, you had better not come here so
often calling to me.”
“Don’t you wish me to come?”
“Yes, I wish you to come well
enough, but keeping company is not the custom of the
country, and I don’t want to be talked about.”
“Are you afraid the priest would
speak against us from the altar?”
“He has spoken against keeping
company, but it is not so much what the priest says,
for there is no harm in talking.”
“But if you are going to be
married there is no harm in walking out together.”
“Well, not so much, but marriages
are made differently in these parts; there is not
much courting here.”
And next day it was known in the village
that James was going to marry Margaret Dirken.
His desire to excel the boys in dancing
had aroused much gaiety in the parish, and for some
time past there had been dancing in every house where
there was a floor fit to dance upon; and if the cottager
had no money to pay for a barrel of beer, James Bryden,
who had money, sent him a barrel, so that Margaret
might get her dance. She told him that they sometimes
crossed over into another parish where the priest was
not so averse to dancing, and James wondered.
And next morning at Mass he wondered at their simple
fervour. Some of them held their hands above
their heads as they prayed, and all this was very new
and very old to James Bryden. But the obedience
of these people to their priest surprised him.
When he was a lad they had not been so obedient, or
he had forgotten their obedience; and he listened
in mixed anger and wonderment to the priest who was
scolding his parishioners, speaking to them by name,
saying that he had heard there was dancing going on
in their homes. Worse than that, he said he had
seen boys and girls loitering about the roads, and
the talk that went on was of one kind love.
He said that newspapers containing love-stories were
finding their way into the people’s houses, stories
about love, in which there was nothing elevating or
ennobling. The people listened, accepting the
priest’s opinion without question. And their
submission was pathetic. It was the submission
of a primitive people clinging to religious authority,
and Bryden contrasted the weakness and incompetence
of the people about him with the modern restlessness
and cold energy of the people he had left behind him.
One evening, as they were dancing,
a knock came to the door, and the piper stopped playing,
and the dancers whispered:
“Some one has told on us; it is the priest.”
And the awe-stricken villagers crowded
round the cottage fire, afraid to open the door.
But the priest said that if they did not open the
door he would put his shoulder to it and force it open.
Bryden went towards the door, saying he would allow
no one to threaten him, priest or no priest, but Margaret
caught his arm and told him that if he said anything
to the priest, the priest would speak against them
from the altar, and they would be shunned by the neighbours.
It was Mike Scully who went to the door and let the
priest in, and he came in saying they were dancing
their souls into hell.
“I’ve heard of your goings
on,” he said “of your beer-drinking
and dancing. I will not have it in my parish.
If you want that sort of thing you had better go to
America.”
“If that is intended for me,
sir, I will go back to-morrow. Margaret can follow.”
“It isn’t the dancing,
it’s the drinking I’m opposed to,”
said the priest, turning to Bryden.
“Well, no one has drunk too much, sir,”
said Bryden.
“But you’ll sit here drinking
all night,” and the priest’s eyes went
towards the corner where the women had gathered, and
Bryden felt that the priest looked on the women as
more dangerous than the porter.
“It’s after midnight,”
he said, taking out his watch. By Bryden’s
watch it was only half-past eleven, and while they
were arguing about the time Mrs. Scully offered Bryden’s
umbrella to the priest, for in his hurry to stop the
dancing the priest had gone out without his; and, as
if to show Bryden that he bore him no ill-will, the
priest accepted the loan of the umbrella, for he was
thinking of the big marriage fee that Bryden would
pay him.
“I shall be badly off for the
umbrella to-morrow,” Bryden said, as soon as
the priest was out of the house. He was going
with his father-in-law to a fair. His father-in-law
was learning him how to buy and sell cattle.
And his father-in-law was saying that the country was
mending, and that a man might become rich in Ireland
if he only had a little capital. Bryden had the
capital, and Margaret had an uncle on the other side
of the lake who would leave her all he had, that would
be fifty pounds, and never in the village of Duncannon
had a young couple begun life with so much prospect
of success as would James Bryden and Margaret Dirken.
Some time after Christmas was spoken
of as the best time for the marriage; James Bryden
said that he would not be able to get his money out
of America before the spring. The delay seemed
to vex him, and he seemed anxious to be married, until
one day he received a letter from America, from a
man who had served in the bar with him. This friend
wrote to ask Bryden if he were coming back. The
letter was no more than a passing wish to see Bryden
again. Yet Bryden stood looking at it, and everyone
wondered what could be in the letter. It seemed
momentous, and they hardly believed him when he said
it was from a friend who wanted to know if his health
were better. He tried to forget the letter, and
he looked at the worn fields, divided by walls of loose
stones, and a great longing came upon him.
The smell of the Bowery slum had come
across the Atlantic, and had found him out in this
western headland; and one night he awoke from a dream
in which he was hurling some drunken customer through
the open doors into the darkness. He had seen
his friend in his white duck jacket throwing drink
from glass into glass amid the din of voices and strange
accents; he had heard the clang of money as it was
swept into the till, and his sense sickened for the
bar-room. But how should he tell Margaret Dirken
that he could not marry her? She had built her
life upon this marriage. He could not tell her
that he would not marry her... yet he must go.
He felt as if he were being hunted; the thought that
he must tell Margaret that he could not marry her hunted
him day after day as a weasel hunts a rabbit.
Again and again he went to meet her with the intention
of telling her that he did not love her, that their
lives were not for one another, that it had all been
a mistake, and that happily he had found out it was
a mistake soon enough. But Margaret, as if she
guessed what he was about to speak of, threw her arms
about him and begged him to say he loved her, and that
they would be married at once. He agreed that
he loved her, and that they would be married at once.
But he had not left her many minutes before the feeling
came upon him that he could not marry her that
he must go away. The smell of the bar-room hunted
him down. Was it for the sake of the money that
he might make there that he wished to go back?
No, it was not the money. What then? His
eyes fell on the bleak country, on the little fields
divided by bleak walls; he remembered the pathetic
ignorance of the people, and it was these things that
he could not endure. It was the priest who came
to forbid the dancing. Yes, it was the priest.
As he stood looking at the line of the hills the bar-room
seemed by him. He heard the politicians, and the
excitement of politics was in his blood again.
He must go away from this place he must
get back to the bar-room. Looking up he saw the
scanty orchard, and he hated the spare road that led
to the village, and he hated the little hill at the
top of which the village began, and he hated more than
all other places the house where he was to live with
Margaret Dirken if he married her.
He could see it from where he stood by the
edge of the lake, with twenty acres of pasture land
about it, for the landlord had given up part of his
demesne land to them.
He caught sight of Margaret, and he
called to her to come through the stile.
“I have just had a letter from America.”
“About the money?” she said.
“Yes, about the money. But I shall have
to go over there.”
He stood looking at her, seeking for
words; and she guessed from his embarrassment that
he would say to her that he must go to America before
they were married.
“Do you mean, James, you will have to go at
once?”
“Yes,” he said, “at
once. But I shall come back in time to be married
in August. It will only mean delaying our marriage
a month.”
They walked on a little way talking;
every step he took James felt that he was a step nearer
the Bowery slum. And when they came to the gate
Bryden said:
“I must hasten or I shall miss the train.”
“But,” she said, “you are not going
now you are not going to-day?”
“Yes, this morning. It
is seven miles. I shall have to hurry not to
miss the train.”
And then she asked him if he would ever come back.
“Yes,” he said, “I am coming back.”
“If you are coming back, James, why not let
me go with you?”
“You could not walk fast enough. We should
miss the train.”
“One moment, James. Don’t
make me suffer; tell me the truth. You are not
coming back. Your clothes where shall
I send them?”
He hurried away, hoping he would come
back. He tried to think that he liked the country
he was leaving, that it would be better to have a
farmhouse and live there with Margaret Dirken than
to serve drinks behind a counter in the Bowery.
He did not think he was telling her a lie when he
said he was coming back. Her offer to forward
his clothes touched his heart, and at the end of the
road he stood and asked himself if he should go back
to her. He would miss the train if he waited
another minute, and he ran on. And he would have
missed the train if he had not met a car. Once
he was on the car he felt himself safe the
country was already behind him. The train and
the boat at Cork were mere formulae; he was already
in America.
The moment he landed he felt the thrill
of home that he had not found in his native village,
and he wondered how it was that the smell of the bar
seemed more natural than the smell of the fields, and
the roar of crowds more welcome than the silence of
the lake’s edge. However, he offered up
a thanksgiving for his escape, and entered into negotiations
for the purchase of the bar-room.
He took a wife, she bore him sons
and daughters, the bar-room prospered, property came
and went; he grew old, his wife died, he retired from
business, and reached the age when a man begins to
feel there are not many years in front of him, and
that all he has had to do in life has been done.
His children married, lonesomeness began to creep
about him; in the evening, when he looked into the
fire-light, a vague, tender reverie floated up, and
Margaret’s soft eyes and name vivified the dusk.
His wife and children passed out of mind, and it seemed
to him that a memory was the only real thing he possessed,
and the desire to see Margaret again grew intense.
But she was an old woman, she had married, maybe she
was dead. Well, he would like to be buried in
the village where he was born.
There is an unchanging, silent life
within every man that none knows but himself, and
his unchanging, silent life was his memory of Margaret
Dirken. The bar-room was forgotten and all that
concerned it, and the things he saw most clearly were
the green hillside, and the bog lake and the rushes
about it, and the greater lake in the distance, and
behind it the blue lines of wandering hills.