Like all the little wooden inns in
the higher Alps, tiny auberges situated in the
bare and rocky gorges which intersect the white summits
of the mountains, the inn of Schwarenbach is a refuge
for travelers who are crossing the Gemmi.
It is open six months in the year,
and is inhabited by the family of Jean Hauser.
As soon as the snow begins to fall, and fills the valley
so as to make the road down to Loeche impassable, the
father, with mother, daughter, and the three sons
depart, leaving the house in charge of the old guide,
Gaspard Hari, with the young guide, Ulrich Kunsi,
and Sam, the great mountain dog.
The two men and the dog remain till
spring in their snowy prison, with nothing before
their eyes except immense, white slopes of the Balmhorn,
surrounded by light, glistening summits, and shut up,
blocked up, and buried by the snow which rises around
them, enveloping and almost burying the little house
up to the eaves.
It was the day on which the Hauser
family were going to return to Loeche, as winter was
approaching, and the descent was becoming dangerous.
Three mules started first, laden with baggage and led
by the three sons. Then the mother, Jeanne Hauser,
and her daughter Louise mounted a fourth mule, and
set off in their turn. The father followed them,
accompanied by the two men in charge, who were to escort
the family as far as the brow of the descent.
First of all they skirted the small lake, now frozen
over, at the foot of the mass of rocks which stretched
in front of the inn; then they followed the valley,
which was dominated on all sides by snow-covered peaks.
A ray of sunlight glinted into that
little white, glistening, frozen desert, illuminating
it with a cold and dazzling flame. No living thing
appeared among this ocean of hills; there was no stir
in that immeasurable solitude, no noise disturbed
the profound silence.
By degrees the young guide, Ulrich
Kunsi, a tall, long-legged Swiss, left daddy Hauser
and old Gaspard behind, in order to catch up with the
mule which carried the two women. The younger
one looked at him as he approached, as if she would
call him with her sad eyes. She was a young,
light-haired peasant girl, whose milk-white cheeks
and pale hair seemed to have lost their color by long
dwelling amid the ice. When Ulrich had caught
up with the animal which carried the women, he put
his hand on the crupper, and relaxed his speed.
Mother Hauser began to talk to him, and enumerated
with minutest detail all that he would have to attend
to during the winter. It was the first winter
he would spend up there, while old Hari had already
spent fourteen winters amid the snow, at the inn of
Schwarenbach.
Ulrich Kunsi listened, without appearing
to understand, and looked incessantly at the girl.
From time to time he replied: “Yes, Madame
Hauser”; but his thoughts seemed far away, and
his calm features remained unmoved.
They reached Lake Daube, whose broad,
frozen surface reached to the bottom of the valley.
On the right, the Daubenhorn showed its black mass,
rising up in a peak above the enormous moraines
of the Lommeon glacier, which soared above the Wildstrubel.
As they approached the neck of the Gemmi, where
the descent to Loeche begins, the immense horizon
of the Alps of the Valais, from which the broad, deep
valley of the Rhone separated them, came in view.
In the distance, there was a group
of white, unequal, flat or pointed mountain summits,
which glistened in the sun; the Mischabel with its
twin peaks, the huge group of the Weisshorn, the heavy
Brunegghorn, the lofty and formidable pyramid of Mont
Cervin, slayer of men, and the Dent Blanche, that
terrible coquette.
Then beneath them, as at the bottom
of a terrible abyss, they saw Loeche, its houses looking
like grains of sand which had been thrown into that
enormous crevice which finishes and closes the Gemmi,
and which opens, down below, on to the Rhone.
The mule stopped at the edge of the
path, which turns and twists continually, zigzagging
fantastically and strangely along the steep side of
the mountain, as far as the almost invisible little
village at its feet. The women jumped into the
snow, and the two old men joined them.
“Well,” father Hauser
said, “good-bye, and keep up your spirits till
next year, my friends,” and old Hari replied:
“Till next year.”
They embraced each other, and then
Madame Hauser in her turn, offered her cheek, and
the girl did the same. When Ulrich Kunsi’s
turn came, he whispered in Louise’s ear:
“Do not forget those up yonder,”
and she replied: “No,” in such a low
voice, that he guessed what she had said, without hearing
it.
“Well, adieu,” Jean Hauser
repeated, “and don’t fall ill.”
Then, going before the two women, he commenced the
descent, and soon all three disappeared at the first
turn in the road, while the two men returned to the
inn at Schwarenbach.
They walked slowly side by side, without
speaking. The parting was over, and they would
be alone together for four or five months. Then
Gaspard Hari began to relate his life last winter.
He had remained with Michael Canol, who was too old
now to stand it; for an accident might happen during
that long solitude. They had not been dull, however;
the only thing was to be resigned to it from the first,
and in the end one would find plenty of distraction,
games and other means of whiling away the time.
Ulrich Kunsi listened to him with
his eyes on the ground, for in thought he was with
those who were descending to the village. They
soon came in sight of the inn, which was scarcely
visible, so small did it look, a mere black speck
at the foot of that enormous billow of snow.
When they opened the door, Sam, the great curly dog,
began to romp round them.
“Come, my boy,” old Gaspard
said, “we have no women now, so we must get
our own dinner ready. Go and peel the potatoes.”
And they both sat down on wooden stools, and began
to put the bread into the soup.
The next morning seemed very long
to Kunsi. Old Hari smoked and smoked beside the
hearth, while the young man looked out of the window
at the snow-covered mountain opposite the house.
In the afternoon he went out, and going over the previous
day’s ground again, he looked for the traces
of the mule that had carried the two women; then when
he had reached the neck of the Gemmi, he laid
himself down on his stomach, and looked at Loeche.
The village, in its rocky pit, was
not yet buried under the snow, although the white
masses came quite close to it, balked, however, of
their prey by the pine woods which protected the hamlet.
From his vantage point the low houses looked like
paving-stones in a large meadow. Hauser’s
little daughter was there now in one of those gray-colored
houses. In which? Ulrich Kunsi was too far
away to be able to make them out separately.
How he would have liked to go down while he was yet
able!
But the sun had disappeared behind
the lofty crest of the Wildstrubel, and the young
man returned to the chalet. Daddy Hari was smoking,
and, when he saw his mate come in, proposed a game
of cards to him. They sat down opposite each
other for a long time and played the simple game called
brisque; then they had supper and went to bed.
The following days were like the first,
bright and cold, without any more snow. Old Gaspard
spent his afternoons in watching the eagles and other
rare birds which ventured on to those frozen heights;
while Ulrich journeyed regularly to the neck of the
Gemmi to look at the village. In the evening
they played at cards, dice, or dominoes, and lost
and won trifling sums, just to create an interest in
the game.
One morning Hari, who was up first,
called his companion. A moving cloud of white
spray, deep and light, was falling on them noiselessly,
and burying them by degrees under a dark, thick coverlet
of foam. This lasted four days and four nights.
It was necessary to free the door and the windows,
to dig out a passage, and to cut steps to get over
this frozen powder, which a twelve-hours’ frost
had made as hard as the granite of the moraines.
They lived like prisoners, not venturing
outside their abode. They had divided their duties
and performed them regularly. Ulrich Kunsi undertook
the scouring, washing, and everything that belonged
to cleanliness. He also chopped up the wood,
while Gaspard Hari did the cooking and attended to
the fire. Their regular and monotonous work was
relieved by long games at cards or dice, but they never
quarreled, and were always calm and placid. They
were never even impatient or ill-humored, nor did
they ever use hard words, for they had laid in a stock
of patience for this wintering on the top of the mountain.
Sometimes old Gaspard took his rifle
and went after chamois, and occasionally killed one.
Then there was a feast in the inn at Schwarenbach,
and they reveled in fresh meat. One morning he
went out as usual. The thermometer outside marked
eighteen degrees of frost, and as the sun had not
yet risen, the hunter hoped to surprise the animals
at the approaches to the Wildstrubel. Ulrich,
being alone, remained in bed until ten o’clock.
He was of a sleepy nature, but would not have dared
to give way like that to his inclination in the presence
of the old guide, who was ever an early riser.
He breakfasted leisurely with Sam, who also spent
his days and nights in sleeping in front of the fire;
then he felt low-spirited and even frightened at the
solitude, and was seized by a longing for his daily
game of cards, as one is by the domination of an invincible
habit. So he went out to meet his companion,
who was to return at four o’clock.
The snow had leveled the whole deep
valley, filled up the crevasses, obliterated all signs
of the two lakes and covered the rocks, so that between
the high summits there was nothing but an immense,
white, regular, dazzling, and frozen surface.
For three weeks, Ulrich had not been to the edge of
the precipice, from which he had looked down on to
the village, and he wanted to go there before climbing
the slopes which led to the Wildstrubel. Loeche
was now covered by the snow, and the houses could
scarcely be distinguished, hidden as they were by that
white cloak.
Turning to the right, Ulrich reached
the Lammern glacier. He strode along with a mountaineer’s
long swinging pace, striking the snow, which was as
hard as a rock, with his iron-shod stick, and with
piercing eyes looking for the little black, moving
speck in the distance, on that enormous, white expanse.
When he reached the end of the glacier
he stopped, and asked himself whether the old man
had taken that road, and then he began to walk along
the moraines with rapid and uneasy steps.
The day was declining; the snow was assuming a rosy
tint, and a dry, frozen wind blew in rough gusts over
its crystal surface. Ulrich uttered a long, shrill,
vibrating call. His voice sped through the deathlike
silence in which the mountains were sleeping; it reached
into the distance, over the profound and motionless
waves of glacial foam, like the cry of a bird over
the waves of the sea; then it died away and nothing
answered him.
He started off again. The sun
had sunk behind the mountain tops, which still were
purpled with the reflection from the heavens; but the
depths of the valley were becoming gray, and suddenly
the young man felt frightened. It seemed to him
as if the silence, the cold, the solitude, the wintry
death of these mountains were taking possession of
him, were stopping and freezing his blood, making
his limbs grow stiff, and turning him into a motionless
and frozen object; and he began to run rapidly toward
the dwelling. The old man, he thought, would have
returned during his absence. He had probably taken
another road; and would, no doubt, be sitting before
the fire, with a dead chamois at his feet.
He soon came in sight of the inn,
but no smoke rose from it. Ulrich ran faster.
Opening the door he met Sam who ran up to him to greet
him, but Gaspard Hari had not returned. Kunsi,
in his alarm, turned round suddenly, as if he had
expected to find his comrade hidden in a corner.
Then he relighted the fire and made the soup; hoping
every moment to see the old man come in. From
time to time he went out to see if Gaspard were not
in sight. It was night now, that wan night of
the mountain, a livid night, with the crescent moon,
yellow and dim, just disappearing behind the mountain
tops, and shining faintly on the edge of the horizon.
Then the young man went in and sat
down to warm his hands and feet, while he pictured
to himself every possible sort of accident. Gaspard
might have broken a leg, have fallen into a crevasse,
have taken a false step and dislocated his ankle.
Perhaps he was lying on the snow, overcome and stiff
with the cold, in agony of mind, lost and perhaps
shouting for help, calling with all his might, in the
silence of the night.
But where? The mountain was so
vast, so rugged, so dangerous in places, especially
at that time of the year, that it would have required
ten or twenty guides walking for a week in all directions,
to find a man in that immense space. Ulrich Kunsi,
however, made up his mind to set out with Sam, if
Gaspard did not return by one in the morning; and he
made his preparations.
He put provisions for two days into
a bag, took his steel climbing-irons, tied a long,
thin, strong rope round his waist and looked to see
that his iron-shod stick and his ax, which served to
cut steps in the ice, were in order. Then he
waited. The fire was burning on the hearth, the
great dog was snoring in front of it, and the clock
was ticking in its case of resounding wood, as regularly
as a heart beating.
He waited, his ears on the alert for
distant sounds, and shivered when the wind blew against
the roof and the walls. It struck twelve, and
he trembled. Then, as he felt frightened and
shivery, he put some water on the fire, so that he
might have hot coffee before starting. When the
clock struck one he got up, woke Sam, opened the door
and went off in the direction of the Wildstrubel.
For five hours he ascended, scaling the rocks by means
of his climbing-irons, cutting into the ice, advancing
continually, and occasionally hauling up the dog, who
remained below at the foot of some slope that was too
steep for him, by means of the rope. About six
o’clock he reached one of the summits to which
old Gaspard often came after chamois, and he waited
till it should be day-light.
The sky was growing pale overhead,
and suddenly a strange light, springing, nobody could
tell whence, suddenly illuminated the immense ocean
of pale mountain peaks, which stretched for many leagues
around him. It seemed as if this vague brightness
arose from the snow itself, in order to spread itself
into space. By degrees the highest and most distant
summits assumed a delicate, fleshlike rose color, and
the red sun appeared behind the ponderous giants of
the Bernese Alps.
Ulrich Kunsi set off again, walking
like a hunter, stooping and looking for any traces,
and saying to his dog: “Seek old fellow,
seek!”
He was descending the mountain now,
scanning the depths closely, and from time to time
shouting, uttering a loud, prolonged familiar cry
which soon died away in that silent vastness.
Then, he put his ear to the ground, to listen.
He thought he could distinguish a voice, and so he
began to run and shout again. But he heard nothing
more and sat down, worn out and in despair. Toward
midday he breakfasted and gave Sam, who was as tired
as himself, something to eat also; then he recommenced
his search.
When evening came he was still walking,
having traveled more than thirty miles over the mountains.
As he was too far away to return home, and too tired
to drag himself along any further, he dug a hole in
the snow and crouched in it with his dog, under a
blanket which he had brought with him. The man
and the dog lay side by side, warming themselves one
against the other, but frozen to the marrow, nevertheless.
Ulrich scarcely slept, his mind haunted by visions
and his limbs shaking with cold.
Day was breaking when he got up.
His legs were as stiff as iron bars, and his spirits
so low that he was ready to weep, while his heart was
beating so that he almost fell with excitement whenever
he thought he heard a noise.
Suddenly he imagined that he also
was going to die of cold in the midst of this vast
solitude. The terror of such a death roused his
energies and gave him renewed vigor. He was descending
toward the inn, falling down and getting up again,
and followed at a distance by Sam, who was limping
on three legs. They did not reach Schwarenbach
until four o’clock in the afternoon. The
house was empty, and the young man made a fire, had
something to eat, and went to sleep, so worn-out that
he did not think of anything more.
He slept for a long time, for a very
long time, the unconquerable sleep of exhaustion.
But suddenly a voice, a cry, a name: “Ulrich,”
aroused him from his profound slumber, and made him
sit up in bed. Had he been dreaming? Was
it one of those strange appeals which cross the dreams
of disquieted minds? No, he heard it still, that
reverberating cry, which had entered at
his ears and remained in his brain, thrilling
him to the tips of his sinewy fingers. Certainly,
somebody had cried out, and called: “Ulrich!”
There was somebody there, near the house, there could
be no doubt of that, and he opened the door and shouted:
“Is it you, Gaspard?” with all the strength
of his lungs. But there was no reply, no murmur,
no groan, nothing. It was quite dark, and the
snow looked wan.
The wind had risen, that icy wind
which cracks the rocks, and leaves nothing alive on
those deserted heights. It came in sudden gusts,
more parching and more deadly than the burning wind
of the desert, and again Ulrich shouted: “Gaspard!
Gaspard! Gaspard!” Then he waited again.
Everything was silent on the mountain! Then he
shook with terror, and with a bound he was inside
the inn. He shut and bolted the door, and then
fell into a chair, trembling all over, for he felt
certain that his comrade had called him at the moment
of dissolution.
He was certain of that, as certain
as one is of conscious life or of taste when eating.
Old Gaspard Hari had been dying for two days and three
nights somewhere, in some hole, in one of those deep,
untrodden ravines whose whiteness is more sinister
than subterranean darkness. He had been dying
for two days and three nights and he had just then
died, thinking of his comrade. His soul, almost
before it was released, had taken its flight to the
inn where Ulrich was sleeping, and it had called him
by that terrible and mysterious power which the spirits
of the dead possess. That voiceless soul had
cried to the worn-out soul of the sleeper; it had
uttered its last farewell, or its reproach, or its
curse on the man who had not searched carefully enough.
And Ulrich felt that it was there,
quite close to him, behind the wall, behind the door
which he had just fastened. It was wandering about,
like a night bird which skims a lighted window with
his wings, and the terrified young man was ready to
scream with horror. He wanted to run away, but
did not dare go out; he did not dare, and would never
dare in the future, for that phantom would remain
there day and night, round the inn, as long as the
old man’s body was not recovered and deposited
in the consecrated earth of a churchyard.
Daylight came, and Kunsi recovered
some of his courage with the return of the bright
sun. He prepared his meal, gave his dog some food,
and then remained motionless on a chair, tortured
at heart as he thought of the old man lying on the
snow. Then, as soon as night once more covered
the mountains, new terrors assailed him. He now
walked up and down the dark kitchen, which was scarcely
lighted by the flame of one candle. He walked
from one end of it to the other with great strides,
listening, listening to hear the terrible cry of the
preceding night again break the dreary silence outside.
He felt himself alone, unhappy man, as no man had
ever been alone before! Alone in this immense
desert of snow, alone five thousand feet above the
inhabited earth; above human habitations, above that
stirring, noisy, palpitating life, alone under an
icy sky! A mad longing impelled him to run away,
no matter where, to get down to Loeche by flinging
himself over the precipice; but he did not even dare
to open the door, as he felt sure that the other, the
dead, man would bar his road, so that he might
not be obliged to remain up there alone.
Toward midnight, tired with walking,
worn-out by grief and fear, he fell into a doze in
his chair, for he was afraid of his bed, as one is
of a haunted spot. But suddenly the strident cry
of the preceding evening pierced his ears, so shrill
that Ulrich stretched out his arms to repulse the
ghost, and he fell on to his back with his chair.
Sam, who was awakened by the noise,
began to howl as frightened dogs do, and trotted all
about the house trying to find out where the danger
came from. When he got to the door, he sniffed
beneath it, smelling vigorously, with his coat bristling
and his tail stiff while he growled angrily.
Kunsi, who was terrified, jumped up, and holding his
chair by one leg, cried: “Don’t come
in, don’t come in, or I shall kill you.”
And the dog, excited by this threat, barked angrily
at that invisible enemy who defied his master’s
voice. By degrees, however, he quieted down,
came back and stretched himself in front of the fire.
But he was uneasy, and kept his head up, and growled
between his teeth.
Ulrich, in turn, recovered his senses,
but as he felt faint with terror, he went and got
a bottle of brandy out of the sideboard, and drank
off several glasses, one after another, at a gulp.
His ideas became vague, his courage revived, and a
feverish glow ran through his veins.
He ate scarcely anything the next
day, and limited himself to alcohol; so he lived for
several days, like a drunken brute. As soon as
he thought of Gaspard Hari he began to drink again,
and went on drinking until he fell on to the floor,
overcome by intoxication. And there he remained
on his face, dead drunk, his limbs benumbed, and snoring
with his face to the ground. But scarcely had
he digested the maddening and burning liquor, than
the same cry, “Ulrich,” woke him like a
bullet piercing his brain, and he got up, still staggering,
stretching out his hands to save himself from falling,
and calling to Sam to help him. And the dog,
who appeared to be going mad like his master, rushed
to the door, scratched it with his claws, and gnawed
it with his long white teeth, while the young man,
his neck thrown back, and his head in the air, drank
the brandy in gulps, as if it were cold water, so that
it might by and by send his thoughts, his frantic
terror, and his memory, to sleep again.
In three weeks he had consumed all
his stock of ardent spirits. But his continual
drunkenness only lulled his terror, which awoke more
furiously than ever, as soon as it was impossible for
him to calm it by drinking. His fixed idea, which
had been intensified by a month of drunkenness, and
which was continually increasing in his absolute solitude?
pêne-trated him like a gimlet. He now walked
about his house like a wild beast in its cage, putting
his eat to the door to listen if the other were there,
and defying him through the wall. Then as soon
as he dozed, overcome by fatigue, he heard the voice
which made him leap to his feet.
At last one night, as cowards do when
driven to extremity, he sprang to the door and opened
it, to see who was calling him, and to force him to
keep quiet. But such a gust of cold wind blew
into his face that it chilled him to the bone.
He closed and bolted the door again immediately, without
noticing that Sam had rushed out. Then, as he
was shivering with cold, he threw some wood on the
fire, and sat down in front of it to warm himself.
But suddenly he started, for somebody was scratching
at the wall, and crying. In desperation he called
out: “Go away!” but was answered
by another long, sorrowful wail.
Then all his remaining senses forsook
him, from sheer fright. He repeated: “Go
away!” and turned round to find some corner in
which to hide, while the other person went round the
house still crying, and rubbing against the wall.
Ulrich went to the oak sideboard, which was full of
plates and dishes and of provisions, and lifting it
up with superhuman strength, he dragged it to the
door, so as to form a barricade. Then piling
up all the rest of the furniture, the mattresses,
paillasses, and chairs, he stopped up the windows as
men do when assailed by an enemy.
But the person outside now uttered
long, plaintive, mournful groans, to which the young
man replied by similar groans, and thus days and nights
passed without their ceasing to howl at each other.
The one was continually walking round the house and
scraped the walls with his nails so vigorously that
it seemed as if he wished to destroy them, while the
other, inside, followed all his movements, stooping
down, and holding his ear to the walls, and replying
to all his appeals with terrible cries. One evening,
however, Ulrich heard nothing more, and he sat down,
so overcome by fatigue that he went to sleep immediately,
and awoke in the morning without a thought, without
any recollection of what had happened, just as if
his head had been emptied during his heavy sleep.
But he felt hungry, and he ate.
The winter was over, and the Gemmi
pass was practicable again, so the Hauser family started
off to return to their inn. As soon as they had
reached the top of the ascent, the women mounted their
mule, and spoke about the two men who they would meet
again shortly. They were, indeed, rather surprised
that neither of them had come down a few days before,
as soon as the road became passable, in order to tell
them all about their long winter sojourn. At
last, however, they saw the inn, still covered with
snow, like a quilt. The door and the windows were
closed, but a little smoke was coming out of the chimney,
which reassured old Hauser; on going up to the door,
however, he saw the skeleton of an animal which had
been torn to pieces by the eagles, a large skeleton
lying on its side.
They all looked closely at it, and
the mother said: “That must be Sam.”
Then she shouted: “Hi! Gaspard!”
A cry from the interior of the house answered her,
so sharp a cry that one might have thought some animal
uttered it. Old Hauser repeated: “Hi!
Gaspard!” and they heard another cry, similar
to the first.
Then the three men, the father and
the two sons, tried to open the door, but it resisted
their efforts. From the empty cow-stall they took
a beam to serve as a battering-ram, and hurled it against
the door with all their might. The wood gave
way, and the boards flew into splinters; then the
house was shaken by a loud voice, and inside, behind
the sideboard which was overturned, they saw a man
standing upright, his hair falling on to his shoulders
and a beard descending to his breast, with shining
eyes and nothing but rags to cover him. They did
not recognize him, but Louise Hauser exclaimed:
“It is Ulrich, mother.” And her mother
declared that it was Ulrich, although his hair was
white.
He allowed them to go up to him, and
to touch him, but he did not reply to any of their
questions, and they were obliged to take him to Loeche,
where the doctors found that he was mad. Nobody
ever knew what had become of his companion.
Little Louise Hauser nearly died that
summer of decline, which the medical men attributed
to the cold air of the mountains.