“Moving some five or six miles round the base of the great peak of which I have spoken, we came the same day to one of the fairest bits of African country that I have seen outside of Kukuanaland.  At this spot the mountain spur that runs out at right angles to the great range, which stretches its cloud-clad length north and south as far as the eye can reach, sweeps inwards with a vast and splendid curve.  This curve measures some five-and-thirty miles from point to point, and across its moon-like segment the river flashed, a silver line of light.  On the further side of the river is a measureless sea of swelling ground, a natural park covered with great patches of bush ­some of them being many square miles in extent.  These are separated one from another by glades of grass land, broken here and there with clumps of timber trees; and in some instances by curious isolated koppies, and even by single crags of granite that start up into the air as though they were monuments carved by man, and not tombstones set by nature over the grave of ages gone.  On the west this beautiful plain is bordered by the lonely mountain, from the edge of which it rolls down toward the fever coast; but how far it runs to the north I cannot say ­eight days’ journey, according to the natives, when it is lost in an untravelled morass.

“On the hither side of the river the scenery is different.  Along the edge of its banks, where the land is flat, are green patches of swamp.  Then comes a wide belt of beautiful grass land covered thickly with game, and sloping up very gently to the borders of the forest, which, beginning at about a thousand feet above the level of the plain, clothes the mountain-side almost to its crest.  In this forest grow great trees, most of them of the yellow-wood species.  Some of these trees are so lofty, that a bird in their top branches would be out of range of an ordinary shot gun.  Another peculiar thing about them is, that they are for the most part covered with a dense growth of the Orchilla moss; and from this moss the natives manufacture a most excellent deep purple dye, with which they stain tanned hides and also cloth, when they happen to get any of the latter.  I do not think that I ever saw anything more remarkable than the appearance of one of these mighty trees festooned from top to bottom with trailing wreaths of this sad-hued moss, in which the wind whispers gently as it stirs them.  At a distance it looks like the gray locks of a Titan crowned with bright green leaves, and here and there starred with the rich bloom of orchids.

“The night of that day on which I had my little difference of opinion with Gobo, we camped by the edge of this great forest, and on the following morning at daylight I started out shooting.  As we were short of meat I determined to kill a buffalo, of which there were plenty about, before looking for traces of elephants.  Not more than half a mile from camp we came across a trail broad as a cart-road, evidently made by a great herd of buffaloes which had passed up at dawn from their feeding ground in the marshes, to spend the day in the cool air of the uplands.  This trail I followed boldly; for such wind as there was blew straight down the mountain-side, that is, from the direction in which the buffaloes had gone, to me.  About a mile further on the forest began to be dense, and the nature of the trail showed me that I must be close to my game.  Another two hundred yards and the bush was so thick that, had it not been for the trail, we could scarcely have passed through it.  As it was, Gobo, who carried my eight-bore rifle (for I had the .570-express in my hand), and the other two men whom I had taken with me, showed the very strongest dislike to going any further, pointing out that there was ‘no room to run away.’  I told them that they need not come unless they liked, but that I was certainly going on; and then, growing ashamed, they came.

“Another fifty yards, and the trail opened into a little glade.  I knelt down and peeped and peered, but no buffalo could I see.  Evidently the herd had broken up here ­I knew that from the spoor ­and penetrated the opposite bush in little troops.  I crossed the glade, and choosing one line of spoor, followed it for some sixty yards, when it became clear to me that I was surrounded by buffaloes; and yet so dense was the cover that I could not see any.  A few yards to my left I could hear one rubbing its horns against a tree, while from my right came an occasional low and throaty grunt which told me that I was uncomfortably near an old bull.  I crept on towards him with my heart in my mouth, as gently as though I were walking upon eggs for a bet, lifting every little bit of wood in my path, and placing it behind me lest it should crack and warn the game.  After me in single file came my three retainers, and I don’t know which of them looked the most frightened.  Presently Gobo touched my leg; I glanced round, and saw him pointing slantwise towards the left.  I lifted my head a little and peeped over a mass of creepers; beyond the creepers was a dense bush of sharp-pointed aloes, of that kind of which the leaves project laterally, and on the other side of the aloes, not fifteen paces from us, I made out the horns, neck, and the ridge of the back of a tremendous old bull.  I took my eight-bore, and getting on to my knee prepared to shoot him through the neck, taking my chance of cutting his spine.  I had already covered him as well as the aloe leaves would allow, when he gave a kind of sigh and lay down.

“I looked round in dismay.  What was to be done now?  I could not see to shoot him lying down, even if my bullet would have pierced the intervening aloes ­which was doubtful ­and if I stood up he would either run away or charge me.  I reflected, and came to the conclusion that the only thing to do was to lie down also; for I did not fancy wandering after other buffaloes in that dense bush.  If a buffalo lies down, it is clear that he must get up again some time, so it was only a case of patience ­’fighting the fight of sit down,’ as the Zulus say.

“Accordingly I sat down and lighted a pipe, thinking that the smell of it might reach the buffalo and make him get up.  But the wind was the wrong way, and it did not; so when it was done I lit another.  Afterwards I had cause to regret that pipe.

“Well, we squatted like this for between half and three quarters of an hour, till at length I began to grow heartily sick of the performance.  It was about as dull a business as the last hour of a comic opera.  I could hear buffaloes snorting and moving all round, and see the red-beaked tic birds flying up off their backs, making a kind of hiss as they did so, something like that of the English missel-thrush, but I could not see a single buffalo.  As for my old bull, I think he must have slept the sleep of the just, for he never even stirred.

“Just as I was making up my mind that something must be done to save the situation, my attention was attracted by a curious grinding noise.  At first I thought that it must be a buffalo chewing the cud, but was obliged to abandon the idea because the noise was too loud.  I shifted myself round and stared through the cracks in the bush, in the direction whence the sound seemed to come, and once I thought that I saw something gray moving about fifty yards off, but could not make certain.  Although the grinding noise still continued I could see nothing more, so I gave up thinking about it, and once again turned my attention to the buffalo.  Presently, however, something happened.  Suddenly from about forty yards away there came a tremendous snorting sound, more like that made by an engine getting a heavy train under weigh than anything else in the world.

“‘By Jove,’ I thought, turning round in the direction from which the grinding sound had come, ’that must be a rhinoceros, and he has got our wind.’  For, as you fellows know, there is no mistaking the sound made by a rhinoceros when he gets wind of you.

“Another second, and I heard a most tremendous crashing noise.  Before I could think what to do, before I could even get up, the bush behind me seemed to burst asunder, and there appeared not eight yards from us, the great horn and wicked twinkling eye of a charging rhinoceros.  He had winded us or my pipe, I do not know which, and, after the fashion of these brutes, had charged up the scent.  I could not rise, I could not even get the gun up, I had no time.  All that I was able to do was to roll over as far out of the monster’s path as the bush would allow.  Another second and he was over me, his great bulk towering above me like a mountain, and, upon my word, I could not get his smell out of my nostrils for a week.  Circumstances impressed it on my memory, at least I suppose so.  His hot breath blew upon my face, one of his front feet just missed my head, and his hind one actually trod upon the loose part of my trousers and pinched a little bit of my skin.  I saw him pass over me lying as I was upon my back, and next second I saw something else.  My men were a little behind me, and therefore straight in the path of the rhinoceros.  One of them flung himself backwards into the bush, and thus avoided him.  The second with a wild yell sprung to his feet, and bounded like an india-rubber ball right into the aloe bush, landing well among the spikes.  But the third, it was my friend Gobo, could not by any means get away.  He managed to gain his feet, and that was all.  The rhinoceros was charging with his head low; his horn passed between Gobo’s legs, and feeling something on his nose, he jerked it up.  Away went Gobo, high into the air.  He turned a complete somersault at the apex of the curve, and as he did so, I caught sight of his face.  It was gray with terror, and his mouth was wide open.  Down he came, right on to the great brute’s back, and that broke his fall.  Luckily for him the rhinoceros never turned, but crashed straight through the aloe bush, only missing the man who had jumped into it by about a yard.

“Then followed a complication.  The sleeping buffalo on the further side of the bush, hearing the noise, sprang to his feet, and for a second, not knowing what to do, stood still.  At that instant the huge rhinoceros blundered right on to him, and getting his horn beneath his stomach gave him such a fearful dig that the buffalo was turned over on to his back, while his assailant went a most amazing cropper over his carcase.  In another moment, however, the rhinoceros was up, and wheeling round to the left, crashed through the bush down-hill and towards the open country.

“Instantly the whole place became alive with alarming sounds.  In every direction troops of snorting buffaloes charged through the forest, wild with fright, while the injured bull on the further side of the bush began to bellow like a mad thing.  I lay quite still for a moment, devoutly praying that none of the flying buffaloes would come my way.  Then when the danger lessened I got on to my feet, shook myself, and looked round.  One of my boys, he who had thrown himself backward into the bush, was already half way up a tree ­if heaven had been at the top of it he could not have climbed quicker.  Gobo was lying close to me, groaning vigorously, but, as I suspected, quite unhurt; while from the aloe bush into which N had bounded like a tennis ball, issued a succession of the most piercing yells.

“I looked, and saw that this unfortunate fellow was in a very tight place.  A great spike of aloe had run through the back of his skin waist-belt, though without piercing his flesh, in such a fashion that it was impossible for him to move, while within six feet of him the injured buffalo bull, thinking, no doubt, that he was the aggressor, bellowed and ramped to get at him, tearing the thick aloes with his great horns.  That no time was to be lost, if I wished to save the man’s life, was very clear.  So seizing my eight-bore, which was fortunately uninjured, I took a pace to the left, for the rhinoceros had enlarged the hole in the bush, and aimed at the point of the buffalo’s shoulder, since on account of my position I could not get a fair side shot for the heart.  As I did so I saw that the rhinoceros had given the bull a tremendous wound in the stomach, and that the shock of the encounter had put his left hind-leg out of joint at the hip.  I fired, and the bullet striking the shoulder broke it, and knocked the buffalo down.  I knew that he could not get up any more, because he was now injured fore and aft, so notwithstanding his terrific bellows I scrambled round to where he was.  There he lay glaring furiously and tearing up the soil with his horns.  Stepping up to within two yards of him I aimed at the vertebra of his neck and fired.  The bullet struck true, and with a thud he dropped his head upon the ground, groaned, and died.

“This little matter having been attended to with the assistance of Gobo, who had now found his feet, I went on to extricate our unfortunate companion from the aloe bush.  This we found a thorny task, but at last he was dragged forth uninjured, though in a very pious and prayerful frame of mind.  His ‘spirit had certainly looked that way,’ he said, or he would now have been dead.  As I never like to interfere with true piety, I did not venture to suggest that his spirit had deigned to make use of my eight-bore in his interest.

“Having despatched this boy back to the camp to tell the bearers to come and cut the buffalo up, I bethought me that I owed that rhinoceros a grudge which I should love to repay.  So without saying a word of what was in my mind to Gobo, who was now more than ever convinced that Fate walked about loose in Wambe’s country, I just followed on the brute’s spoor.  He had crashed through the bush till he reached the little glade.  Then moderating his pace somewhat, he had followed the glade down its entire length, and once more turned to the right through the forest, shaping his course for the open land that lies between the edge of the bush and the river.  Having followed him for a mile or so further, I found myself quite on the open.  I took out my glasses and searched the plain.  About a mile ahead was something brown ­as I thought, the rhinoceros.  I advanced another quarter of a mile, and looked once more ­it was not the rhinoceros, but a big ant-heap.  This was puzzling, but I did not like to give it up, because I knew from his spoor that he must be somewhere ahead.  But as the wind was blowing straight from me towards the line that he had followed, and as a rhinoceros can smell you for about a mile, it would not, I felt, be safe to follow his trail any further; so I made a detour of a mile and more, till I was nearly opposite the ant-heap, and then once more searched the plain.  It was no good, I could see nothing of him, and was about to give it up and start after some oryx I saw on the skyline, when suddenly at a distance of about three hundred yards from the ant-heap, and on its further side, I saw my rhino stand up in a patch of grass.

“‘Heavens!’ I thought to myself, ‘he’s off again;’ but no, after standing staring for a minute or two he once more lay down.

“Now I found myself in a quandary.  As you know, a rhinoceros is a very short-sighted brute, indeed his sight is as bad as his scent is good.  Of this fact he is perfectly aware, but he always makes the most of his natural gifts.  For instance, when he lies down he invariably does so with his head down wind.  Thus, if any enemy crosses his wind he will still be able to escape, or attack him; and if, on the other hand, the danger approaches up wind he will at least have a chance of seeing it.  Otherwise, by walking delicately, one might actually kick him up like a partridge, if only the advance was made up wind.

“Well, the point was, how on earth should I get within shot of this rhinoceros?  After much deliberation I determined to try a side approach, thinking that in this way I might get a shoulder shot.  Accordingly we started in a crouching attitude, I first, Gobo holding on to my coat tails, and the other boy on to Gobo’s moocha.  I always adopt this plan when stalking big game, for if you follow any other system the bearers will get out of line.  We arrived within three hundred yards safely enough, and then the real difficulties began.  The grass had been so closely eaten off by game that there was scarcely any cover.  Consequently it was necessary to go on to our hands and knees, which in my case involved laying down the eight-bore at every step and then lifting it up again.  However, I wriggled along somehow, and if it had not been for Gobo and his friend no doubt everything would have gone well.  But as you have, I dare say, observed, a native out stalking is always of that mind which is supposed to actuate an ostrich ­so long as his head is hidden he seems to think that nothing else can be seen.  So it was in this instance, Gobo and the other boy crept along on their hands and toes with their heads well down, but, though unfortunately I did not notice it till too late, bearing the fundamental portions of their frames high in the air.  Now all animals are quite as suspicious of this end of mankind as they are of his face, and of that fact I soon had a proof.  Just when we had got within about two hundred yards, and I was congratulating myself that I had not had this long crawl with the sun beating on the back of my neck like a furnace for nothing, I heard the hissing note of the rhinoceros birds, and up flew four or five of them from the brute’s back, where they had been comfortably employed in catching tics.  Now this performance on the part of the birds is to a rhinoceros what the word ‘cave’ is to a schoolboy ­it puts him on the qui vive at once.  Before the birds were well in the air I saw the grass stir.

“‘Down you go,’ I whispered to the boys, and as I did so the rhinoceros got up and glared suspiciously around.  But he could see nothing, indeed if we had been standing up I doubt if he would have seen us at that distance; so he merely gave two or three sniffs and then lay down, his head still down wind, the birds once more settling on his back.

“But it was clear to me that he was sleeping with one eye open, being generally in a suspicious and unchristian frame of mind, and that it was useless to proceed further on this stalk, so we quietly withdrew to consider the position and study the ground.  The results were not satisfactory.  There was absolutely no cover about except the ant-heap, which was some three hundred yards from the rhinoceros upon his up-wind side.  I knew that if I tried to stalk him in front I should fail, and so I should if I attempted to do so from the further side ­he or the birds would see me; so I came to a conclusion:  I would go to the ant-heap, which would give him my wind, and instead of stalking him I would let him stalk me.  It was a bold step, and one which I should never advise a hunter to take, but somehow I felt as though rhino and I must play the hand out.

“I explained my intentions to the men, who both held up their arms in horror.  Their fears for my safety were a little mitigated, however, when I told them that I did not expect them to come with me.

“Gobo breathed a prayer that I might not meet Fate walking about, and the other one sincerely trusted that my spirit might look my way when the rhinoceros charged, and then they both departed to a place of safety.

“Taking my eight-bore, and half-a-dozen spare cartridges in my pocket, I made a detour, and reaching the ant-heap in safety lay down.  For a moment the wind had dropped, but presently a gentle puff of air passed over me, and blew on towards the rhinoceros.  By the way, I wonder what it is that smells so strong about a man?  Is it his body or his breath?  I have never been able to make out, but I saw it stated the other day, that in the duck decoys the man who is working the ducks holds a little piece of burning turf before his mouth, and that if he does this they cannot smell him, which looks as though it were the breath.  Well, whatever it was about me that attracted his attention, the rhinoceros soon smelt me, for within half a minute after the puff of wind had passed me he was on his legs, and turning round to get his head up wind.  There he stood for a few seconds and sniffed, and then he began to move, first of all at a trot, then, as the scent grew stronger, at a furious gallop.  On he came, snorting like a runaway engine, with his tail stuck straight up in the air; if he had seen me lie down there he could not have made a better line.  It was rather nervous work, I can tell you, lying there waiting for his onslaught, for he looked like a mountain of flesh.  I determined, however, not to fire till I could plainly see his eye, for I think that rule always gives one the right distance for big game; so I rested my rifle on the ant-heap and waited for him, kneeling.  At last, when he was about forty yards away, I saw that the time had come, and aiming straight for the middle of the chest I pulled.

“Thud went the heavy bullet, and with a tremendous snort over rolled the rhinoceros beneath its shock, just like a shot rabbit.  But if I had thought that he was done for I was mistaken, for in another second he was up again, and coming at me as hard as ever, only with his head held low.  I waited till he was within ten yards, in the hope that he would expose his chest, but he would do nothing of the sort; so I just had to fire at his head with the left barrel, and take my chance.  Well, as luck would have it, of course the animal put its horn in the way of the bullet, which cut clean through it about three inches above the root and then glanced off into space.

“After that things got rather serious.  My gun was empty and the rhinoceros was rapidly arriving, so rapidly indeed that I came to the conclusion that I had better make way for him.  Accordingly I jumped to my feet and ran to the right as hard as I could go.  As I did so he arrived full tilt, knocked my friendly ant-heap flat, and for the third time that day went a most magnificent cropper.  This gave me a few seconds’ start, and I ran down wind ­my word, I did run!  Unfortunately, however, my modest retreat was observed, and the rhinoceros, as soon as he had found his legs again, set to work to run after me.  Now no man on earth can run so fast as an irritated rhinoceros can gallop, and I knew that he must soon catch me up.  But having some slight experience of this sort of thing, luckily for myself, I kept my head, and as I fled I managed to open my rifle, get the old cartridges out, and put in two fresh ones.  To do this I was obliged to steady my pace a little, and by the time that I had snapped the rifle to I heard the beast snorting and thundering away within a few paces of my back.  I stopped, and as I did so rapidly cocked the rifle and slued round upon my heel.  By this time the brute was within six or seven yards of me, but luckily his head was up.  I lifted the rifle and fired at him.  It was a snap shot, but the bullet struck him in the chest within three inches of the first, and found its way into his lungs.  It did not stop him, however, so all I could do was to bound to one side, which I did with surprising activity, and as he brushed past me to fire the other barrel into his side.  That did for him.  The ball passed in behind the shoulder and right through his heart.  He fell over on to his side, gave one more awful squeal ­a dozen pigs could not have made such a noise ­and promptly died, keeping his wicked eyes wide open all the time.

“As for me, I blew my nose, and going up to the rhinoceros sat on his head, and reflected that I had done a capital morning’s shooting.”