Having disposed of the quadrupeds
of Le Morvan, I must enlarge a little upon the finny
tribe of my native province, who would, I feel sure,
be not a little annoyed if after having mentioned
nearly every other creature capable of affording amusement
to the sportsman I were to pass them over in silence.
Besides, the shade of Izaak Walton would haunt me,
and his disciples no doubt wish me well hooked, if
I omitted to give them a chapter on angling, but
it shall be short, and I will avoid all scientific
discussion. Theories sufficient have been hazarded,
and books written without number from the days of
old Aristotle, who arranged them in three great divisions,
the Cetaceous, the Cartilaginous, and the Spinous;
down to Gmelin, who divided them into six orders, the
Apodal, the Jugular, the Thoracic, the Abdominal,
the Branchiostagous, and the Chondropterygious.
How men, learned and scientific men,
can be so barbarous as to invent such grotesque names
as these is surprizing, or why Apicius should
be remembered for having been the first to teach mankind
how to suffocate fish in Carthaginian pickle; or Quin,
for having discovered a sauce for John Dories; or
Mrs. Glasse, for an eel pie; or M. Soyer, celebrated
for depriving barbel of their sight, in order to make
them grow fatter, and be more acceptable to the epicure.
Into this wilderness of discoveries, I have no intention
of introducing you, gentle reader. The wisest
plan is to cook and eat your fish in the ordinary
mode fry, broil, bake, boil, or grill;
and call a perch, a perch, not a thoracic; a pike,
a pike, &c., and pay little attention either to cooks
or naturalists.
Le Morvan, intersected by numerous
rivers, streams, and runs of water, in the liquid
depths of which the various species of the fresh-water
fishy-family are found from the powerful, swift, and
travelled salmon, to the modest little gudgeon that
stays quietly at home, is a country where the angler
may live in a state of perpetual jubilee; the carp,
the eel, and the pike attain an enormous size, particularly
near the dams and flood-gates, where the depth of
water is great, and in the Gours or water-courses
which, diverging at several points on the stream, are
constructed for supplying the flour and paper-mills
with water.
The punters of Richmond, Hampton Court,
and Chertsey, with their magnificent tackle, gentles,
ground-bait, and comfortable chair, &c., would be
astonished to see the quantities of fish that are taken
in one of these Gours by a half-naked peasant,
with a line as thick as packthread, during a sultry
tempestuous evening in the month of June; from thirty
to forty pounds’ weight of carp and eels is by
no means an unusual take, Apodal and Abdominal,
as the learned Gmelin would say.
These Gours are perfect jewels
in the eyes of our fishermen; on very great occasions,
for instance, when the miller marries, or an infant
miller makes his appearance, if the occurrence should
happen during the summer season, the flood-gates of
the Gours are opened, when the waters being
let off to within a few inches of the bottom, the quantity
of fish taken with the casting-net is enormous.
In the large Gour of Akin, the longest, the
deepest, and containing more fish than any on the
Cure or the Cousin, which I mention as representing
the ten or twelve second-rate rivers of Le Morvan,
I have seen as much as four horse-loads of fish taken,
though every fish under two pounds was thrown back.
The average depth of water in these rivers is from
three to four feet, except near the dams and flood-gates,
where it is from twelve to thirteen. With rivers
so well supplied, sport is invariably obtained; so
that patience, a virtue generally considered absolutely
necessary in the angler, is scarcely required here,
and fishing is actually a pastime of the beau sexe.
Well do I remember the astonishment,
the pleasure, the delicious joy of a young English
lady we had the good fortune to have with us at Vezelay,
some few years since (where, by-the-bye, she made quite
a sensation), when for the first time, and seated
comfortably upon the soft turf by the river side,
she gracefully threw her line into the great Gour
of Akin; the bait had scarcely sunk, when the float
was dancing about like a dervish, and finally disappeared;
the lady pulled, the fish resisted; excited beyond
measure, she redoubled her efforts, and tugging away
with both hands, at length drew from his watery home
a large carp, which flying through the air, described
a splendid parabola, and landed in the adjoining field,
to the great joy of the young lady, who showed her
white teeth and laughed with might and main. But
the poor devil of a servant to whom was confided the
delicate task of impaling the bait, disentangling
the line, and searching for the fish, when thus projected
over the lady’s head into the long grass behind
her, had plenty to do I can aver, and did anything
but laugh.
Near the forests and the hills the
rivers are much more shallow, more clear and limpid,
and flow, dance, and bubble over a gravelly bottom
or golden sands. In these the voracious trout
abounds; he may be seen allowing himself to be lazily
rocked by the eddy, by the twirling current, or reposing
under the shadow of the large rocks, which, detached
from the adjacent mountains, have fallen into the river,
and been arrested in their course; here he waits for
the delicious May-fly, and the fisherman’s basket
is soon filled so soon that a celebrated
doctor in our neighbourhood, whose house is situated
near one of these streams, used to send his servant
every morning to take a fresh dish for his breakfast.
The largest and the best trout are found near Chatelux,
in the heart of the Morvan, an old chateau,
on the summit of a high rock, ornamented with towers
and turrets, and surrounded by thick and solitary
woods, in itself a lion worth seeing.
The present Count de Chatelux was
aide-de-camp to Louis Phillipe, and a great friend
of that sovereign. The river Cure flows at the
foot of the hill on which the castle is situated,
and its bed at this part is frequently divided, and
forms many little islets, full of flowering shrubs
and forest trees, which give the landscape a pleasing
and picturesque appearance. From hence, for nearly
twelve miles, roach, dace, chub, and trout are numerous,
and take the fly well.
Besides the Gours we have mentioned,
there are three spots in the Morvan that deserve attention
in connection with fishing. These are Sermiselle,
Pierre Pertuis, and the Chateau des
Panolas. Sermiselle, at the junction of the Cure
and the Cousin, at which point the road from Paris
to Lyons passes, is a charming village, full of life
and gaiety. At this spot the river begins to
make a respectable figure; deep, solemn, and silent,
it seems proud of its boats and ferries; but its waters
have not that transparent appearance, that vivacious,
laughing, and brawling character which distinguished
them some miles further up. The fish in like
manner resemble the stream; there are in this part
monstrous carp, majestic eels, and solemn pike; and
the line should be doubly strong if the angler is
desirous of ever seeing a fish, or his hooks again.
At some distance above Sermiselle,
where the silence and solitude of the country still
reign, a very curious mode of fishing is adopted during
the burning heat of the summer months. About mid-day,
when the sun in all its power shoots his golden rays
perpendicularly on the waters, illuminating every
large hole even in the profoundest depths, the large
fish leave them, and, ascending to the surface, remain
under the cool shade of the trees, watching for whatever
tit-bit or delicacy the stream may bring with it,
while others prefer a quiet saunter, or, with the
dorsal fin above the water, lie so still and stationary
near some lily or other aquatic plant, that they seem
perfectly asleep.
The enthusiastic sportsman, who fears
neither storms nor a coup-de-soleil, makes
his appearance about this time, without, it is true,
either fishing-rod, lines, worms, flies, or bait of
any description, but having under his left arm a double-barrel
gun, in his right hand a large cabbage, and at his
heels a clever poodle. The fisherman, or the
huntsman, I scarcely know which to call him, now duly
reconnoitres the river, fixes upon some tree, the large
and lower branches of which spread over it, ascends
with his gun and his cabbage, and having taken up
an equestrian position upon one of the projecting
arms, examines the surface of the deep stream below
him. He has not been long on his perch when he
perceives a stately pike paddling up the river; a
leaf is instantly broken off the cabbage, and when
the Branchiostagous has approached sufficiently near,
is thrown into the water; frightened, the voracious
fish at once disappears, but shortly after rises,
and grateful to the unknown and kind friend who has
sent him this admirable parasol, he goes towards it,
and after pushing it about for a few seconds with
his nose, finally places himself comfortably under
its protecting shade. The sportsman, watching
the animated gyrations of his cabbage-leaf, immediately
fires, when the poodle, whose sagacity is quite equal
to that of his master, plunges into the water, and
if the fish is either dead or severely wounded fails
not to bring out with him the scaly morsel; thus so
long as the heavens are bright and blue, the water
is warm, the large fish choose to promenade in the
sun, and the sportsman’s powers of climbing hold
out, the sport continues. Sometimes the poodle
and the fish have a very sharp struggle, and then
the fun is great indeed, unless by chance the sportsman
should unfortunately miss his hold in the midst of
his laughter, and drop head-foremost into the water
with his cabbage and his double-barrel.
Pierre Pertuis on the Cure,
is also a famous place for fishing, and an extraordinary
spot, and the Morvinian peasant, a highly poetically-flavoured
individual, has made it the theatre of some very fantastic
scenes. Imagine a yellow rock, of gigantic height,
terminating in a point, with its sides full of fissures,
holes, and crevices, inhabited by crows, owls, and
bats, having its base in the river and its summit
crowned with a rough chevelure of brambles and
large creeping plants. The lower part of this
rock is intersected by holes, through which the water
rushes, tumbles, and whirls. The peasants pretend
that the river near the rock cannot be fathomed, and
that this particular spot is inhabited by fairies,
nymphs, syrens, and other amiable ladies of this description,
who have superb voices, and sing from the interior
of their grottos delicious melodies of the other world,
with the charitable intention of attracting the passing
traveller or fisherman, and drowning him in the whirlpool
beneath a fate that would certainly be
inevitable, if the attraction in question could bring
them within its vortex, for certain it is that neither
sheep-dogs or cattle which have fallen in, or been
drawn within reach of its power, have ever been seen
again. When the tempest rages here, the wind,
rushing into the holes and fissures, produces a kind
of moaning AEolian noise, and this with the cries
of the owls and the rooks when the mistral blows
and they have the rheumatism, produces, and no wonder,
a superstitious feeling of awe in the mind of the
ignorant peasant.
On the Cousin, which flows majestically
through some of the most magnificent pastures in the
world, and on the summit of a large hill, stands the
charming Chateau des Panolas, the towers
and walls of which, covered with pointed roofs and
weather-cocks, and surrounded by domes, belvédères,
and old-fashioned dovecots, give it at a distance the
appearance of some oriental building. The weather-cocks
in particular are of the most fanciful and grotesque
designs, and it is said, and I should think there
can be no doubt of the fact, that in no other structure
have so many been seen together: it is calculated
there are no less than three hundred. In going
and returning from the forest, many a time have I
and my friends, in the hey-day of youthful iniquities,
knocked one of them off with a ball from our guns,
to the great anger of the proprietor, who threatened
us with his mahogany crutch from the hall door.
In the great ponds of Marot, and in
the lakes of Lomervo immense liquid plains,
deep and surrounded in their whole circumference by
a forest of green rushes, water-lilies, flags, and
many other aquatic plants, forming a wall of verdure the
enormous quantity of fish of every kind is almost
incredible. Nor is this extraordinary, for the
waters of at least a dozen streams from the mountains,
which swarm with life, fall into these vast reservoirs,
and they are only fished once in every five years.
This is a delectable spot for fishermen; but, on the
other hand, as the value of these sheets of water
is well understood by their proprietors, they are
sharply looked after by them and their keepers, and
it is almost as difficult to find an opportunity of
throwing a line during the day, as it is for a poacher
to throw a casting net on a moonlight night.
Nevertheless, as the appropriation
of other people’s property has an exquisite
charm for some temperaments, as a stolen
apple to a child’s palate is much more delightful
than one that is not the demon of acquisitiveness
is always leaning over a man’s shoulder, that
is to say, a poacher’s shoulder, or even that
of a gentleman with poaching tastes and inclinations, to
breathe in his ear bad advice. As to the peasants
in the neighbourhood, they are always consulting together,
or inventing some method by which they may circumvent
the proprietors and appropriate their fish to themselves.
One of the happiest discoveries of
the kind I ever heard of, not the most
recent but the best, is the following.
Every person in the possession of a cottage, possesses
also a few ducks and geese, which paddle about their
humble habitations. A man who has an itching for
the thing, and who desires to become a pond-skimmer,
as they are called, carefully selects from his squadron
of palmipèdes, the strongest, the most intelligent
duck or goose of the party; his choice made, he immediately
sets to work to give him the education befitting a
bird destined for so honourable and diplomatic an
employment.
After very many trials, lessons, and
lectures, more or less difficult and tedious, the
bird is taught to swim to a distance right ahead to
turn to one side when his master sings, and return
to him when he whistles. These two primary and
elementary movements, which appear so very natural,
demand, nevertheless, wonderful patience, and no little
cleverness and tact in the professor to instil for
his pupils, be it remembered, are ducks and geese and
furnishes an example of how the hope and love of gain
has its effect on mankind. These very peasants,
who never would take the trouble to learn their letters only
twenty-four who would not many of them go
two miles to learn how to sign their own names, pass
whole days in the gray waters of these marshes, more
often than not up to their waists in mud, whistling
and singing and twitching the legs of their unfortunate
birds, and nearly pulling them off with a string,
when they either do not comprehend, or obey as quickly
as they might, the orders they receive.
Dozens of ducks and geese that would
in London or Paris be considered highly curious and
infinitely wiser than any of their species even
those of the Capitol are thus trained every
year in Le Morvan, without any one giving them a thought,
and may be purchased, education included, for two
shillings a piece. When these winged students
are so thoroughly qualified for their duties, that
they can go through their exercise without a mistake,
and are considered worthy of taking the field, the
peasant puts them into his bag, and setting off very
early in the morning to one of the great ponds I have
mentioned, conceals himself behind a thick tufty curtain
of flags, from whence he can see without being seen.
Here, opening his bag, he takes out
the half suffocated ducks or geese, which are glad
enough to find themselves once more on their favourite
element; and the intelligent birds have scarcely regained
their liberty when the peasant commences his ballad,
and immediately the anchor is apeak and they are off;
he sings, he whistles, and they turn, like two well-manned
frigates, and come back to him without a moment’s
delay. The act is so natural, so simple, that
no one can be attracted by it; nor is it possible
to suspect a goose or a duck with its head down searching
for food, that paddles about in the weeds or on the
shore, or dabbles amongst the rushes. Should
the keeper appear, the peasant is sure to be found
lying on his back half asleep, or singing or whistling,
as if mocking the lark in the clear blue sky above
him.
Nevertheless, this goose, this duck,
and this man are first-rate thieves, cracksmen
of their class; for the peasant, before he confides
his poultry to the waves, makes their toilette; sliding
under the left wing and over the right, across the
body, like a soldier’s belt, a strong and well-baited
pike-hook. Thus equipped and ready for the start,
the pirate birds leave on their buccaneering expedition;
but they are scarcely a stone’s throw from the
shore, and well clear of the little islands of flags,
when a hungry pike, observing the delicious frog towing
in the rear, seizes it, and makes off to his hole,
to gorge the bait at his leisure. More easily
thought than done; the goose stoutly resists,
and refuses to accompany the fresh-water shark to his
weedy home. A warm and obstinate engagement is
the result; the peasant watches, with approving eye,
the embarassment of his feathered accomplice, until
he thinks it time to put an end to the scrimmage, when
he whistles like an easterly wind in a passion.
The goose, rather encumbered by the carnivorous gentleman
below him, endeavours for some time but in vain to
obey the signal; he flaps his wings, works away with
his legs, and cackles without ceasing. The poacher
encourages him with another whistle, and at length
the bird, in spite of all his adversary’s attempts
to the contrary, leads the “greedy game of the
deep” to the shore, and delivers it to his master.
This is, certainly, a very curious mode of taking
pike, and the live trimmer looks very puzzled when
the voracious fish is hooked; but the following anecdote,
taken from the scrap-book of Mr. M’Diarmid,
shows that a Scotchman once adopted the same method,
though for a different reason. “Several
years ago,” he writes, “a farmer, living
in the immediate neighbourhood of Lochmaben, Dumfriesshire,
kept a gander, who not only had a great trick of wandering
himself, but also delighted in piloting forth his cackling
harem, to weary themselves in circumnavigating their
native lake, or in straying amidst forbidden fields
on the opposite shore. Wishing to check this
flagrant habit, the farmer one day seized the gander
just as he was about to spring upon the blue bosom
of his favourite element, and tying a large fish-hook
to his leg, to which was attached part of a dead frog,
he suffered him to proceed upon his voyage of discovery.
As had been anticipated, this bait soon caught the
eye of a ravenous pike, which swallowing the deadly
hook, not only arrested the progress of the astonished
gander, but forced him to perform half-a-dozen summersets
on the surface of the water! For some time, the
struggle was most amusing the fish pulling,
and the bird screaming with all its might, the
one attempting to fly, and the other to swim, from
the invisible enemy the gander one moment
losing and the next regaining his centre of gravity,
and casting between whiles many a rueful look at his
snow-white fleet of geese and goslings, who cackled
out their sympathy for their afflicted commodore.
At length Victory declared in favour of the feathered
angler, who, bearing away for the nearest shore, landed
on the smooth green grass one of the finest pike ever
caught in the Castle Loch.”
This adventure is said to have cured
the gander of his desperate propensity for wandering.