The return to England of Captain Bethune,
C.B., bringing with him a further portion of Mr. Brooke’s
Journal to my charge, enables me to afford my readers
some interesting details relative to the important
events that have occurred in Bornéo subsequent to my
departure from Sarawak.
“January, 1845. The
departure of the Dido left me sad and lonely, for
Captain Keppel had been really my companion and friend;
and he so thoroughly entered into my views for the
suppression of piracy, and made them his own, that
I may not expect any successor to act with the same
vigour and the same decision. Gallant Didos!
I would ask no further aid or protection than I received
from you. Sir Edward Belcher, with the Phlegethon
in company, arrived not long after the Dido’s
departure, and conveyed the Rajah Muda Hassim and
his train to Bornéo Proper. H.M.S. Samarang
and Phlegethon visited and examined Labuan, and proceeded
thence to Ambun. Ambun is a miserable village;
and it at once gave the lie to the report of a European
female being there in captivity, for no poor Orang
Kaya could retain such a prize. The inhabitants
of Ambun are Badjows, and the country people or Dyaks
of the interior are called Dusuns, or villagers.
I saw many of them, and they appeared a gentle mild
race, and far less warlike by account than our Dyaks.
They are not tattooed, and the sumpitan is unknown
amongst them. Leaving Ambun, which is situated
in a pretty bay, we proceeded to Tampasuk, a considerable
town, inhabited by Illanuns and Badjows. This
is a piractical town; and I was informed by an Arab
in captivity there that scarcely a week passes without
strife and contention amongst themselves. There
likewise I received information respecting the Balagnini,
the great pirates of these seas. They are represented
as in habiting numerous small islands in the vicinity
of Sooloo: their origin is Badjow. I apprehend
there would be little difficulty in breaking their
power, and curing the propensity to piracy.
“This cruise being over, I established
myself quietly at Sarawak. The country is peaceable;
trade flourishes; the Dyaks are content; the Malays
greatly increased in number in short, all
goes well. I received a visit from Lingire, a
Dyak chief of Sarebus. At first he was shy and
somewhat suspicions; but a little attention soon put
him at his ease. He is an intelligent man; and
I hail with pleasure his advent to Sarawak, as the
dawn of a friendship with the two pirate tribes.
It is not alone for the benefit of these tribes that
I desire to cultivate their friendship, but for the
greater object of penetrating the interior through
their means. There are no Malays there to impede
our progress by their lies and their intrigues; and,
God willing, these rivers shall be the great arteries
by which civilization shall be circulated to the heart
of Bornéo.
“14th. The
Dyaks of Tumma, a runaway tribe from Sadong, came
down last night, as Bandar Cassim of Sadong wishes
still to extract property from them. Bandar Cassim
I believe to be a weak man, swayed by stronger-headed
and worse rascals; but, now that Seriff Sahib and
Muda Hassim are no longer in the country, he retains
no excuse for oppressing the poor Dyaks. Si Nankan
and Tumma have already flown, and most of the other
tribes are ready to follow their example, and take
refuge in Sarawak. I have fully explained to the
Bandar that he will lose all his Dyaks if he continues
his system of oppression, and more especially if he
continues to resort to that most hateful system of
seizing the women and children.
“I had a large assembly of natives,
Malay and Dyaks, and held forth many good maxims to
them. At present, in Sarawak, we have Balows
and Sarebus, mortal enemies; Lenaar, our extreme tribe,
and our new Sadong tribe of Tumma. Lately we
had Kantoss, from near Sarambow, in the interior of
Pontiana; Undops, from that river; and Badjows, from
near Lantang tribes which had never thought
of Sarawak before, and perhaps never heard the name.
Oh, for power to pursue the course pointed out!
“16th. The
Julia arrived, much to my relief; and Mr. Low, a botanist
and naturalist, arrived in her. He will be a great
acquisition to our society, if devoted to these pursuits.
The same day that the Julia entered, the Ariel left
the river. I dismissed the Tumma Dyaks; re-warned
Bandar Cassim of the consequences of his oppression;
and had a parting interview with Lingire. I had
another long talk with Lingire, and did him honor
by presenting him with a spear and flag, for I believe
he is true, and will be useful; and this Orang Kaya
Pa-muncha, the most powerful of these Dyaks, must be
mine. Lingire described to me a great fight he
once had with the Kayans, on which occasion he got
ninety-one heads, and forced a large body of them
to retire with inferior numbers. I asked him whether
the Kayans used the sumpitan? he answered, ‘Yes.’
’Did many of your men die from the wounds?’
‘No; we can cure them.’ This is one
more proof in favor of Mr. Crawfurd’s opinion
that this poison is not sufficiently virulent to destroy
life when the arrow is (as it mostly is) plucked instantly
from the wound.
“26th. Linn,
a Sakarran chief, arrived, deputed (as he asserted,
and I believe truly) by the other chiefs of Sakarran
to assure me of their submission and desire for peace.
He likewise stated, that false rumors spread by the
Malays agitated the Dyaks; and the principal rumor
was, that they would be shortly attacked again by the
white men. These rumors are spread by the Sariki
people, to induce the Sakarrans to quit their river
and take refuge in the interior of the Rejong; and
once there, the Sakarrans would be in a very great
measure at the mercy of the Sariki people. This
is a perfect instance of Malay dealing with the Dyaks;
but in this case it has failed, as the Sakarrans are
too much attached to their country to quit it.
I am inclined to believe their professions; and at
any rate it is convenient to do so and to give them
a fair trial.
“28th. How
is it to be accounted for, that the Malays have so
bad a character with the public, and yet that the few
who have had opportunities of knowing them well speak
of them as a simple and not unamiable people?
With the vulgar, the idea of a Malay and
by the Malay they mean the entire Polynesian race,
with the exception of the Javanese is that
of a treacherous, blood-thirsty villain; and I believe
the reason to be, that from our first intercourse to
the present time, it is the Pangerans or rajahs of
the country, with their followers, who are made the
standard of Malay character. These rajahs, born
in the purple; bred amid slaves and fighting-cocks,
inheriting an undisputed power over their subjects,
and under all circumstances, whether of riches or
poverty, receiving the abject submission of those
around their persons, are naturally the slaves of
their passions haughty, rapacious, vindictive,
weak, and tenacious unto death of the paltry punctilio
of their court The followers of such rajahs it is
needless to describe; they are the tools of the rajah’s
will, and more readily disposed for evil than for
good; unscrupulous, cunning, intriguing, they are prepared
for any act of violence. We must next contrast
these with a burly, independent trader, eager after
gain; probably not over-scrupulous about the means
of obtaining it, ignorant of native character, and
heedless of native customs and native etiquet.
The result of such a combination of ingredients causes
an explosion on the slightest occasion. The European
is loud, contemptuous, and abusive; the Malay cool
and vindictive. The regal dignity has been insulted;
the rajah has received ‘shame’ before
his court; evil counselors are at hand to whisper
the facility of revenge, and the advantages to be derived
from it. The consequence too frequently follows the
captain and crew are krissed, and their vessel seized
and appropriated. The repeated tragedy shocks
the European mind; and the Malay has received, and
continues to this day to receive, a character for treachery
and bloodthirstiness. Even in these common cases
an allowance must be made for the insults received,
which doubtless on numerous occasions were very gross,
and such flagrant violations of native customs as to
merit death in native eyes; and we must bear in mind,
that we never hear but one side of the tale, or only
judge upon a bloody fact. It is from such samples
of Malays that the general character is given by those
who have only the limited means of trade for forming
a judgment; but those who have known the people of
the interior and lived among them, far removed from
the influence of their rajahs, have given them a very
different character. Simple in their habits,
they are neither treacherous nor bloodthirsty; cheerful,
polite, hospitable, gentle in their manners, they
live in communities with fewer crimes and fewer punishments
than most other people of the globe. They are
passionately fond of their children, and indulgent
even to a fault; and the ties of family relationship
and good feeling continue in force for several generations.
The feeling of the Malay, fostered by education, is
acute, and his passions are roused if shame be put
upon him; indeed, this dread of shame amounts to a
disease; and the evil is, that it has taken a wrong
direction, being more the dread of exposure or abuse,
than shame or contrition for any offence.
“I have always found them good-tempered
and obliging, wonderfully amenable to authority, and
quite as sensible of benefits conferred, and as grateful,
as other people of more favored countries. Of
course there is a reverse to this picture. The
worst feature of the Malay character is the want of
all candor or openness, and the restless spirit of
cunning intrigue which animates them, from the highest
to the lowest. Like other Asiatics, truth is a
rare quality among them. They are superstitious,
somewhat inclined to deceit in the ordinary concerns
of life, and they have neither principle nor conscience
when they have the means of oppressing an infidel,
and a Dyak who is their inferior in civilization and
intellect.
“If this character of the Malay
be summed up, it will be anything but a bad one on
the whole; it will present a striking contrast to the
conduct and character of the rajahs and their followers,
and I think will convince any impartial inquirer,
that it is easily susceptible of improvement.
One of the most fertile sources of confusion is, classing
at one time all the various nations of the Archipelago
under the general name of Malay, and at another restricting
the same term to one people, not more ancient, not
the fountain-head of the others, who issued from the
center of Sumatra, and spread themselves in a few
parts of the Archipelago.
“The French, the German, the
English, Scotch, and Irish are not more different
in national character than the Malay, the Javanese,
the Bugis, the Illanun, and the Dyak; and yet all these
are indiscriminately called Malay, and a common character
bestowed upon them. It would be as wise and as
sensible to speak of a European character.
“31st. Started
on a short excursion up the country, and slept at
Siniawan. Here I found a young Pangeran (who came
from Sambas with Mr. Hupe, a German missionary)
enchained in the delights of opium. He left Sarawak
for Sambas two months since, proceeded five hours’
journey, and has since been smoking the drug and sleeping
alternately. His life passes thus: between
four and five he wakes, yawns, and smokes a pipe or
two, which fits him for the labors of taking his guitar
and playing for an hour. Then follows a slightly
tasted meal, a pipe or two succeeds, and content and
merriment for another hour or two. About eight
o’clock the gentleman reclines, and pipe succeeds
pipe till, toward daylight, he sinks intoxicated and
stupid on his pillow, to wake up again in due course
to play again the same part. Poor wretch! two
months of this life of dissipation have reduced him
to a shadow two more months will consign
him to his grave.
“Fest. Started
after breakfast, and paddled against a strong current
past Tundong, and, some distance above, left the main
stream and entered the branch to the right, which
is narrower, and rendered difficult of navigation
by the number of fallen trees which block up the bed,
and which sometimes obliged us to quit our boat, and
remove all the kajang covers, so as to enable us to
haul the boat under the huge trunks. The main
stream was rapid and turbid, swollen by a fresh, and
its increase of volume blocked up the waters of the
tributary, so as to render the current inconsiderable.
The Dyaks have thrown several bridges across the rivers,
which they effect with great ingenuity; but I was
surprised on one of these bridges to observe the traces
of the severe flood which we had about a fortnight
since. The water on that occasion must have risen
twenty feet perpendicularly, and many of the trees
evidently but recently fallen, are the effects of its
might. The walk to Rat, or Ra-at, is about two
miles along a decent path. Nothing can be more
picturesque than the hill and the village. The
former is a huge lump (I think of granite), almost
inaccessible, with bold bare sides, rising out of
a rich vegetation at the base, and crowned with trees.
The height is about 500 feet; and about a hundred feet
lower is a shoulder of the hill on which stands the
eagle-nest-like village of Ra-at, the ascent to which
is like climbing by a ladder up the side of a house.
This is one of the dwelling-places of the Sow Dyaks,
a numerous but dispersed tribe. Their chief, or
Orang Kaya, is an imbecile old man, and the virtual
headship is in the hands of Nimok, of whom more hereafter.
Our friends seemed pleased to see us, and Nimok apologized
for so few of his people being present, as the harvest
was approaching; but being anxious to give a feast
on the occasion of my first visit to their tribe,
it was arranged that to-morrow I should shoot deer,
and the day following return to the mountain.
The views on either side from the village are beautiful one
view enchanting from its variety and depth, more especially
when lighted up by the gleam of a showery sunshine,
as I first saw it. Soon, however, after our arrival,
the prospect was shut out by clouds, and a soaking
rain descended, which lasted for the greater part
of the night.
“2d. Started
after breakfast, and after a quiet walk of about three
hours through a pleasant country of alternate hill
and valley, we saw the valley of Nawang below us.
Nawang is the property of the Singe Dyaks, and is
cultivated by poor families, at the head of which
is Niarak. The house contained three families,
and our party was distributed among them, ourselves,
i. e. Low, Crookshank, and myself, occupying
one small apartment with a man, his wife, and daughter.
The valley presented one of the most charming scenes
to be imagined a clearing amid hills of
moderate elevation, with the distant mountains in
the background; a small stream ran through it, which,
being damned in several places, enables the cultivator
to flood his padi-fields. The padi looked beautifully
green. A few palms and plantains fringed
the farm at intervals, while the surrounding hills
were clothed in their native jungle. Here and
there a few workmen in the fields heightened the effect;
and the scene, as evening closed, was one of calm
repose, and, I may say, of peace. The cocoa-nut,
the betel, the sago, and the gno or gomati, are the
four favorite palms of the Dyaks. In their simple
mode of life, these four trees supply them many necessaries
and luxuries. The sago furnishes food; and after
the pith has been extracted, the outer part forms
a rough covering for the rougher floor, on which the
farmer sleeps. The leaf of the sago is preferable
for the roofing of houses to the nibong. The gomati,
or gno, gives the black fibre which enables the owner
to manufacture rope or cord for his own use; and over
and above, the toddy of this palm is a luxury daily
enjoyed. When we entered, this toddy was produced
in large bamboos, both for our use and that of our
attendant Dyaks; I thought it, however, very bad.
In the evening we were out looking for deer, and passed
many a pleasant spot which once was a farm, and which
will become a farm again. These the Dyaks called
rapack, and they are the favorite feeding-grounds
of the deer. To our disappointment we did not
get a deer, which we had reckoned on as an improvement
to our ordinary dinner-fare. A sound sleep soon
descended on our party, and the night passed in quiet;
but it is remarkable how vigilant their mode of life
renders the Dyaks. Their sleep is short and interrupted;
they constantly rise, blow up the fire, and look out
on the night: it is rarely that some or other
of them are not on the move.
“Yearly the Dyaks take new ground
for their farm; yearly they fence it in, and undergo
the labor of reclaiming new land; for seven years
the land lies fallow, and then may be used again.
What a waste of labor! more especially in these rich
and watered valleys, which, in the hands of the Chinese,
might produce two crops yearly.
“3d. Took
leave of this pleasant valley, and by another and shorter
road than we came reached Ra-at. We arrived in
good time on the hill, and found everything prepared
for a feast. There was nothing new in this feast.
A fowl was killed with the usual ceremony; afterward
a hog. The hog is paid for by the company at
a price commensurate with its size: a split bamboo
is passed round the largest part of the body, and
knots tied on it at given distances; and according
to the number of these knots are the number of pasus
or padi for the price.
“Our host of Nawang, Niarak,
arrived to this feast with a plentiful supply of toddy;
and before the dance commenced, we were requested
to take our seats. The circumstances of the tribe,
and the ability of Nimok, rendered this ceremony interesting
to me. The Sow tribe has long been split into
four parties, residing at different places. Gunong
Sow, the original locality, was attacked by the Sakarran
Dyaks, and thence Nimok and his party retired to Ra-at.
A second smaller party subsequently located at or
near Bow, as being preferable; while the older divisions
of Jaguen and Ahuss lived at the places so named.
Nimok’s great desire was to gather together his
scattered tribe, and to become de facto its
head. My presence and the Datus’ was
a good opportunity for gathering the tribe; and Nimok
hoped to give them the impression that we countenanced
his proposition. The dances over, Nimok pronounced
an oration: he dwelt on the advantages of union;
how desirous he was to benefit his tribe; how constantly
it was his custom to visit Sarawak in order to watch
over the interests of the tribe the trouble
was his, the advantage theirs; but how, without union,
could they hope to gain any advantage whether
the return of their remaining captive women, or any
other? He proposed this union; and that, after
the padi was ripe, they should all live at Ra-at,
where, as a body, they were always ready to obey the
commands of the Tuan Besar or the Datu.
“This was the substance of Nimok’s
speech. But the effect of his oratory was not
great; for the Bow, and other portions of the tribe,
heard coldly his proposition, though they only opposed
it in a few words. It was evident they had no
orator at all a match for Nimok: a few words
from Niana drew forth a second oration. He glanced
at their former state; he spoke with animation of
their enemies, and dwelt on their great misfortune
at Sow; he attacked the Singe as the cause of these
misfortunes: and spoke long and eloquently of
things past, of things present, and things to come.
He was seated the whole time; his voice varied with
his subject, and was sweet and expressive; his action
was always moderate, principally laying down the law
with his finger on the mats. Niarak, our Singe
friend, attempted a defence of his tribe; but he had
drunk too freely of his own arrack; and his speech
was received with much laughter, in which he joined.
At this juncture I retired, after saying a few words;
but the talk was kept up for several hours after,
amid feasting and drinking.
“4th. After
breakfast, walked to our boats, and at six P.M. reached
home, just in time; weather very rainy.
“10th. Nothing
to remark in these days, except the ordinary course
of business and of life.
“13th. The
Tumangong returned from Sadong, and brought me a far
better account of that place than I had hoped for.
It appears that they really are desirous to govern
well, and to protect the Dyaks; and fully impressed
with the caution I gave them, that unless they protect
and foster their tribes, they will soon lose them from
their removal to Sarawak.
“One large tribe, the Maluku,
a branch of the Sibnowans, are, it appears, very desirous
of being under my protection. It is a tempting
offer, and I should like to have them; but I must not
deprive the rulers of Sadong of the means of living
comfortably, and the power of paying revenue.
Protect them I both can and will. There are great
numbers of Sarawak people at Sadong, all looking out
for birds’-nests; new caves have been explored;
mountains ascended for the first time in the search.
It shows the progress of good government and security,
and, at the same time, is characteristic of the Malay
character. They will endure fatigue, and run
risks, on the chance of finding this valuable commodity;
but they will not labor steadily, or engage in pursuits
which would lead to fortune by a slow progress.
“15th. Panglima
Laksa, the chief of the Undop tribe, arrived, to request,
as the Badjows and Sakarrans had recently killed his
people, that I would permit him to retort. At
the same time came Abong Kapi, the Sakarran Malay,
with eight Sakarran chiefs, named Si Miow, one of
the heads, and the rest Tadong, Lengang, Barunda, Badendang,
Si Bunie, Si Ludum, and Kuno, the representatives
of other heads. Nothing could be more satisfactory
than the interview, just over. They denied any
knowledge or connection with the Badjows, who had killed
some Dyaks at Undop, and said all that I could desire.
They promised to obey me, and look upon me as their
chief: they desired to trade, and would guaranty
any Sarawak people who came to their river; but they
could not answer for all the Dyaks in the Batang Lupar.
It is well known, however, that the Batang Lupar Dyaks
are more peaceable than those of Sakarran, and will
be easily managed; and as for the breaking out of
these old feuds, it is comparatively of slight importance,
compared to the grand settlement; for as our influence
increases we can easily put down the separate sticks
of the bundle. There is a noble chance, if properly
used! It may be remarked that many of their names
are from some peculiarity of person, or from some
quality. Tadong is a poisonous snake; but, on
inquiry, I found the young chief so named had got
the name from being black. They are certainly
a fine-looking race.
“17th. Plenty
of conferences with the Sakarran chiefs; and, as far
as I can judge, they are sincere in the main, though
some reserves there may be. Treachery I do not
apprehend from them; but, of course, it will be impossible,
over a very numerous, powerful, and warlike tribe,
to gain such an ascendency of a sudden as at once
to correct their evil habits.”
Here again Mr. Brooke appears to have
been placed on the horns of a dilemma by his ignorance
of the views of the British Government. Had his
position in Bornéo been certain had he either
been supported or deserted his path of
policy would have been clear; whereas he evidently
did not know what the morrow would bring forth; whether
it would find him with an English force at his back,
or abandoned to his own resources.