MURRAY’S EXPLORATION OF BASS STRAIT.

The Lady Nelson set forth from Sydney on her mission on November 12th, 1801. Obeying Governor Kings orders, Murray steered first towards the Kent Group. His log shows how he mistook other islands, probably the Sisters at the northern extremity of the Furneaux Group, for his place of destination and how, when 25 miles to the northward of Cape Barren, on seeing smoke rising from an island, he sent a boat ashore and found living there two men, a woman and a child, the men, Chase and Beven, being sealers in the employ of Messrs. Kable & Underwood, of Sydney. The Lady Nelson was then brought to and moored in Diana Bay, a well-known anchorage in Furneaux Islands.

Murray, at this time, seems to have been much farther southward than Governor King intended him to go, for the island which he writes of as Grand Capshine was undoubtedly the Grand Capuchin, the largest island of the Furneaux Group, now known as Flinders Island.

Diana Bay, the bay in which the Lady Nelson stayed for some days, was formed by the shores of the Grand Capuchin and Storehouse and Cat Islands, the last named islands being the Babel Islands of Flinders. In very early days this bay was much frequented by sealing vessels and in 1801 gained its name from the ship Diana, a small vessel belonging to Messrs. Kable & Underwood, of Sydney, which afterwards stranded on the Grand Capuchin and which had a curious history. A French schooner named L’Entreprise of Bordeaux, under the command of Captain Le Corre, last from the Isle of France, while sealing in these waters was also wrecked about a year later off one of the Sisters, 30 miles to the northward of where the Diana went ashore. Le Corre and two-thirds of his crew perished. The supercargo whose name, according to Peron, was Coxwell, but which the Sydney Gazette prints as Coggeshall, was among the saved and was brought with the other rescued men to Sydney. Coggeshall returned with Mr. Underwood to endeavour to save the hull of the vessel, and though they failed to float L’Entreprise, they were more successful as regards the Diana which was repaired and renamed the Surprise, the name by which the lost French schooner had been known by the English from Governor King downwards. In order to pay expenses she was put up to public auction in Sydney and purchased by one of the officers of L’Entreprise for 117 guineas, but was afterwards resold to her original owners, Messrs. Kable & Underwood.

Murray did not name the Grand Capuchin, for it was so called before the time of his visit. Nor did Flinders or Bass give it that name, which was probably derived from the cowled peak of a mountain on it, one of three christened by Flinders the Patriarchs, combined with the fact that Furneaux had already named some black rocky islands that lay off the entrance to Storm Bay Passage, The Friars. It seems likely that Barrallier in the Lady Nelsons previous voyage or some French sailor bestowed the name Capuchin upon Flinders Island, and Murray wrote it on his chart, although it was afterwards erased from the maps and replaced at first by the name of Great Island and later by that of Flinders Island.

Leaving Diana Bay on November 25th Murray saw the easternmost members of the Kent Group and steered through the passage which separates the principal islands and which was named in his honour, Murrays Passage. Flinders had passed through the same passage, when he discovered the group, in the Francis in 1798, and named a rock to the south of it the Judgment Rock from its resemblance to an elevated seat."

After surveying the Kent Group, Murray started to carry out his survey of Western Port and Port Phillip. On December 5th he sighted Sir Roger Curtiss Island and on the 7th reached Western Port where he was detained by bad weather until the first week in January. On January 5th as the vessel ran along the Victorian coast towards Port Phillip dense smoke from native fires hid the land from view. At 3 P.M. the smoke had cleared away and Bowen, who was at the masthead, espied an opening in the land ahead which “had the appearance of a harbour.” Keeping close in for it Murray saw inside a fine smooth sheet of water. An island lay at the entrance but the waves were breaking high on the rocks so the brig was hauled off and taken out to sea. Murray then steered to King Island deciding to return again later to explore the newly discovered harbour. He surveyed the east coast of King Island from Cape Farewell to Seal Bay. Some sea elephants were lying on the beach of the bay that he first entered, and this was named Sea Elephant Bay. The following pages describe Murray’s exploration of King Island and of his first sight of Port Phillip.

Murray’s log.

H.M.A. Surveying vessel Lady Nelson on discovery. Lieutenant-commander
John Murray.

Sydney Cove to Bass Strait.

“Thursday, 12th November 1801. Working out of ye Heads at 1 P.M. at 2 P.M. ye South Head of Port Jackson bore north-north-west 11 miles. At 4 P.M. ye weather began to look squally and black from ye south-west with now and then lightning...At 5 it thundered and the lightning increased...During night fresh winds and a heavy sea up; in the morning no land in sight.

“Friday, 13th November. Fresh winds and clear with heavy tumbling sea...At sundown Mount Dromedary 9 or 10 leagues N.W.W. During night unsettled weather and a confused sea. At noon Cape How bore West distance 7 or 8 leagues.

“Saturday, 14th November. Light airs inclinable to calm, a very heavy sea from south-west. At sundown Cape How bore north-west distant about 7 leagues...We hauled in for the land this morning, the Longitude by Governor King’s timekeeper was 149 degrees 30 minutes 45 seconds east, Latitude by anticipation 38 degrees 00 minutes 00 seconds south. At noon calm fine weather. Latitude observed 38 degrees 06 minutes 43 seconds south.

“Sunday, 15th November. Moderate fine weather and smooth water...At 9 A.M. we had a curious squall at every point of the compass, it did not blow very hard and seemed to settle in the south-east quarter.

“Monday, 16th November. At half-past 5 P.M. saw a thunder squall rising in western quarter. The squall passed over the land and thundered a good deal with much lightning, at half-past 7 it took a north-west turn and at 8 P.M. passed over our heads, though with no great deal of wind...In the morning made sail...Latitude 38 degrees 32 minutes south.

“Thursday, 19th November. Moderate and hazy. At 6 A.M. saw Kent’s Group bearing south-west distances 8 or 9 leagues their appearance was like a great number of small islands being nearly south-east and north-west; at 8 A.M. the easternmost island of Kent’s Group and the largest bore south-south-west distance 7 or 8 leagues. At 9 A.M. the whole chain of islands, 13 in number, bore from south by west to west the large island as above.

“Friday, 20th November. Light variable winds and fine weather. Kept working up to the land but were surprised to find that instead of being a small group of islands, ye body of the land was very large and whatever appeared as islands began to connect itself into one island, the latitude not agreeing with Lieutenant Flinders, concluded it could not be Kent’s Group. Kept working up to it and by daylight was within 5 miles of ye northernmost island, passed close to it and seeing an immense number of birds on it sent the boat on shore to procure some; in a short time after this I saw a smoke arise from the small island just passed, sent ye boat and ye first mate there where they found two men, one woman and a child, of Henry Kable’s employ; assisted them as well as we could by noon worked into a good harbour and moored between Storehouse and Cat Island got the Latitude by going on shore 39 degrees 57 minutes 46 seconds south. When moored, the Grand Capshine bore west-north-west distant 1/2 mile Cat Island bore north by east 1/4 mile and Storehouse Island south-east quarter of a mile. Cape Barren the east point south 1/2 east distant 25 miles.

“Saturday, 21st November. Employed taking on stone for ballast. Carpenter fitting places for sweeps to row in and on the longboat. P.M. Broke Farmer Barnes for contempt and disobedience of orders. Rated Robert Warren boatswain’s mate in his room. A.M. Sent the first mate and a party of hands [with one of the people found here] and some dogs to get kangaroo being informed that great plenty was to be found in the country.

“Sunday, 22nd November. The first officer and his party returned on board; they shot 2 wambucks, a kangaroo, a porcupine, a swan and some birds in the evening sent the second mate and some hands on shore to get mutton-birds, and eggs. On account of the great plenty of fresh provisions served no salt meat this day. I went and measured a base line from the south end of Storehouse Island due East and West 2 miles to a point on ye Grand Capshine and from thence surveyed this harbour more for the sake of practice than any use it could be, this place being well-known by the name Diana Bay.

“Monday, 23rd November. At 6 P.M. sent party on shore with the first mate to procure mutton-birds for officers and people. At 9 P.M. the officer and party returned on board, having got near 100 birds and some eggs. As I was at supper, I received the following note from R.B. Wood my clerk:

“’Sir, Under the unfortunate situation in which I am placed as a prisoner and a convict it may appear strange my presumption in observing that something serious I wish to communicate to you. Pardon me saying that secrecy is requisite and that after you have supped and alone will be best. I am, Sir, Your humble servant,

“‘R.B. Wood.’

“On receiving this, a little time after, I sent for him and he informed me that he had seen Mark Clark, soldier, and Robert Warren, who was only two days ago rated boatswain’s mate, pumping off spirits from a cask in the hold; that he suspected this business had been carried on for some time and believed more than those might be concerned. In addition John Johnston, cabin servant, informed me that he had seen a number of the people at different times half drunk when on their watch below; in consequence of these circumstances I turned the hands on deck and read the Articles of War to them, put Mark Clark, Robert Warren and Farmer Barnes in irons, he being drunk; and in the morning I hoisted on deck all the casks of spirits, overhauled them and found one with the bung just out and about 4 1/2 inches dry in it; nailed lead over the bung and tossed them below again. On questioning Clark on this affair he confessed that he and Warren had pumped spirits out of the cask last night, and George Yates informed me that Warren had made a practice of it for some time back. On investigating the matter closer it appeared that Barnes had nothing to do with it. I accordingly released Barnes and again rated him boatswain’s mate turned the hands up and punished Robert Warren with four dozen lashes for robbery, drunkenness, etc., and Mark Clark with one dozen lashes only as it appeared that he had been prompted to this when drunk.

“Tuesday, 24th November. First and middle parts fine weather and mostly calm, latter hazy. Half-past 9 anchor and made sail out between the Grand Capshine and Cat Island, hoisted up our gig and stowe her. At 10 A.M. Cat Island bore south-east distant 5 miles and the peak of the Grand Capshine south-south-east distant 6 miles. At noon the Grand Capshine bore south-east distant 16 or 17 miles and the west end of ye Sisters west by south distant 8 or 9 miles. The harbour we have just left is formed by the Grand Capshine Island, Cat Island and Storehouse Island. Between the Grand Capshine and Cat Island is a narrow channel with deep water through which we came to-day it lies about north-west by north a few hundred yards. Between Cat Island and Storehouse Island is a two-fathom channel, one-sixth of a mile broad through which Kable’s schooner has passed to the South. The harbour is very open and a good deal of sea heaves in, but small vessels can up anchor and just run round to the opposite side of Cat Island there is a snug cove entirely secure from all southerly winds where they may anchor, taking care to be off from this last place, if the wind comes from the northward. From the Grand Capshine the land trends away in a south-east and south direction as far as Cape Barren; from where we lay the Bay of Shoals bore south by west distant 15 miles. A vessel of a large draught would have to lie a good deal further out in the Bay than we, as we rode in one quarter less than 3 fathoms.

“Wednesday, 25th November. Fresh breezes and hazy weather. At half-past 3 saw a single rock bearing south-south-west distance 9 or 10 miles, and an island on our beam south-east...haze very thick and scud flying thick. At 4 P.M. saw a rock lying to north of Kent’s Group about 3 miles...At half-past 4 saw easternmost island of Kent’s Group bearing west by south distance 8 miles, by half-past 5 P.M. having come nearly up with the land, passed in between the group and a rock that lies to the north and by 6 opened the Sound that passes through the Islands...As we approached the first cove saw a large part of the island on fire from which we conceived there might be people on shore kept standing up the Sound and had furious gusts of wind at every point of the compass. We proceeded up with sails, sweeps and boat till we opened the second cove but found it impossible to get to anchorage in it as violent gusts constantly came down it. At 7 P.M. bore away for the cove on the west side and at half-past 7 P.M. came to anchor in 7 fathoms.

“Thursday, 26th November. Moderately fine weather in general. At 2 P.M. the officer and his party returned on board having found no water every part of the cove was overhauled and only rainwater could be found here, the rocks being strongly marked with the stream of water that will naturally fall from such a high land in heavy rain. From the mate’s finding a small quantity of Queyha rope in this cove, and seeing a dog dead on the beach, I fancy the Harrington must have been here, the dog being much like one of Mr. Cumming’s. In the afternoon I sent the first mate to the second cove on the east side to overhaul it for water, but on the strictest search they found nothing, but a brackish kind of spring...they however shot and caught three kangaroos.

“Friday, 27th November. Sounded the channel that divided this group right through...At the southernmost end lies a bank of 10 fathoms. As you approach the East Cove the water gradually shoals from 30 to 40 fathoms...and as you advance on West Cove the water suddenly falls from 30 to 16-14-12-10-8-7-6-5-4 and 3 fathoms, close to the beach the bottom consists of sand mixed with small shells and stones the East Cove the same and small seaweed, the West Cove is strong, coarse sand and where we anchored quite covered with black kelp so much so that at first I was not clear but it might be rock...

“Saturday, 28th November. Measured a base line of 324 fathoms in length from one point of the cove we lay in to the other, it was measured with small line and every five fathoms of it was a chip of light wood in length 120 fathoms. We had the boats employed in this business; alternately anchored them till we got across to the southern end of the point of the cove; and as the water was smooth I fancy the length of base line to be correct. I then surveyed the eastern side of the Sound and Cove. Sent the first mate and some hands to the north-east cove to cut some of ye wood growing there...I sent the carpenter with him overhauled our bread and found...some had got damp and mouldy, got it out from the rest, but owing to the bad weather could not air it on deck...

“Sunday, 29th November. Hard gales and gloomy weather throughout with a swell heaving in through the northern entrance of ye sound. P.M. The first mate returned on board having cut down two spars...The party with the dog caught two large and 3 small kangaroos. At 8 P.M. as usual set a third watch with an officer. A.M. I went over to Harrington [or East] Cove, measured a base line and surveyed the western side of this sound. I also overhauled every part of the Rocks all round the cove and without it examined every drain that I fell in with and although I saw at different parts of the under rocks and in holes perhaps enough water to keep a few men alive yet no quantity that could be much use to a ship’s company. In East Cove there is a good anchorage all over it for ships of any size, and they may exactly choose what water to be in from 3 fathoms close in to ye beach to 14 in ye mouth of it. I sounded every part of it and ye bottom is sand with small stones and shells much covered with black seaweed that might at first be thought to be rocks...West Cove is almost the same...East Cove is ye best to lie in as it entirely shuts in sea gates and moreover has little ground swell to which both other coves are subject. With respect to the tide in the coves little can be perceived, the perpendicular rise at full moon may be 10 or 11 feet, with us it sometimes was 8 or 9 feet, and that in ye course of ye hour...At all times it is imprudent to carry sail on a boat in this sound; the puffs come so violent that before anybody could take in her sail she would to a certainty be overset; even ships, in my opinion, would do well before they enter this sound to take in all their small sails and keep all hands at the braces fore and aft as well as hands by the top-sail halyards, and it is necessary to handle the yards quick otherwise a large vessel will be sure to rub sides with ye rocks if it has blown fresh outside all day...The kangaroo seems to be most plentiful at this time in the north-eastern cove owing, I fancy, to their being less disturbed there than in the other coves, but with good dogs and a little trouble they may be had on the hills in the vicinity of either cove. Wood is plentiful and no trouble in getting it.

“Monday, 30th November. Hard gales, hazy weather with rain throughout. The soil throughout this sound is nothing but sand a good way up the hills and after that you chiefly find rocks with here and there a shott of grass. The hills are covered very thick with brushwood, a great part of which is decayed and rotten and renders it a business of labour to ascend any of them. They are also very high we have seen nothing new on them. A few parrots are to be seen and now and then a snake of a large size, these with kangaroos, gulls, redbills, form the inhabitants of these islands, sometimes a seal comes in shore but very seldom and with much care.

“Thursday, 3rd December. Warped a little way out and finding could get no more of the warp sent hands in the gig to stand by...she drove and we were obliged to let go small bower again. At this time wind increased to a gale...P.M. Got altitudes for Governor King’s chronometer. A.M. Sent the first mate and a party to get kangaroos to the opposite or west side of the land from the cove we lay in and for fresh water.

Friday, 4th December. At sundown party returned reported no fresh water to be found on that side of island, got 3 kangaroos, some shell-fish, and knocked down 2 seals. A.M. Hove up our B.B. At 11 weighed and made sail through sound, at quarter past 11 clear through, strong wind at east. Got sight of rock laying off this island. At noon bore up to survey small island.

“Saturday, 5th December. Strong winds, hazy. At 1 P.M. hove to...At 3 P.M. body of Kent’s Group bore east by south distance 15 or 16 miles. At half-past 4 the five Seal Islands bore north-north-east distance 8 or 9 miles...Saw Sir R. Curtis’s Island west by south 10 miles. At 7 P.M. saw Wilson’s Promontory bearing west-north-west 13 or 14 miles...Stood on till 9 P.M. when it being thick and almost calm hauled close to ye wind off and on...At 4 A.M. the Promontory bore west 7 or 8 miles. Made all sail at 8 A.M. rounded and intending to run between the mainland and ye islands having a fine breeze was surprised to lose all ye wind in an instant as we stood in under ye land although we were not less than 3 or 4 miles from ye mainland it fell calm...Put the helm a starboard, put sweeps on her, and pulled her out into ye wind again...At 10 A.M. passed a remarkable rock with a hole in it. Latitude 39 degrees 10 minutes 0 seconds south.

“Sunday, 6th December. At 3 P.M. saw Cape Liptrap bearing north-north-west distance 6 or 7 miles...Stood in round Phillip Island and by 8 A.M. got close up with Grant’s Point and Seal Island.

Monday, 7th December. At 5 P.M. a breeze sprung up at south-west. Stood in for the entrance with all sail and the sweeps. At 6 P.M. gained entrance and passed between Grants Point and Seal Island which island seemed as full of seals as when we were last there, a circumstance that almost made me conclude that neither the Harrington or Mr. Rushford had been here. Kept standing up the harbour with a south-west wind, at 7 came to anchor in Elizabeth’s Cove in 6 fathoms water with the small bower; lowered down the gig and I went on shore to observe if any signs of strangers were to be seen. Saw nothing to make me think the cove had been visited since we left in May last, in short the only difference was that the land appeared in a higher state of verdure now than it was at that time. At 4 A.M. out launch and sent the first officer and five armed men to the river for fresh water...at 10 A.M. stood further up the harbour.

“Tuesday, 8th December. At 4 P.M. came to an anchor off Lady Nelson’s Point and I went on shore and shot a few birds. At 2 P.M. came on board; up anchor and ran over into 2 fathoms water as near the mouth of river as possible. A.M. I went in the gig to Churchill’s Island and there found everything as we left it I mean the remains of our fires and huts; the wheat and corn that Lieutenant Grant had sown in April last was in full vigour, 6 ft. high and almost ripe the onions also were grown into seed; the potatoes have disappeared I fancy that the different animals that inhabit the island must have eaten or otherwise destroyed them. I regret not having time or men to spare to clear a large spot and sow the wheat already grown, as the next crop would be large. I never saw finer wheat or corn in my life, the straw being very near as large as young sugar-cane.

“Wednesday, 9th December. At 1 P.M. the first officer in the launch returned on board with a load of water; on his examining the river he reported that everything seemed the same as when we left it a strong presumption that no vessel had been there, as naturally they would have replaced their water. The river has been flooded since last April, as a temporary hut we built was found with part of the bank washed away; the banks of the river were found all in a high state of verdure and in many places the view is truly romantic and wild. No signs of native canoes or huts have been discovered, indeed, there is less appearance of natives now than when we were here last; for then many remains of huts, part of a canoe and their beaten tracks were to be found on all parts of the banks of this little river, all of which have vanished. The party caught and shot 5 pairs of swans, out of which 3 pairs were young, and brought on board alive, the others were old and we made some fresh meals from them; they also brought on board a pair of young geese which however are very scarce, but few parrots the ducks are as shy as ever...At 3 P.M. sent the second mate to Churchill’s Island to cut down the wheat on purpose to feed the young swans with it, at sundown they returned on board with it in the whole perhaps a bushel in quantity with a good deal mixed with oats and barley all fine of their kind some potatoes were also found and 2 onions. At 8 A.M. the launch returned with a load of water, the officer reported that George Yates had gone to sleep on watch, left the launch deep loaded in imminent danger of being swamped as the tide rose, and moreover the whole boat’s crew in danger of being surprised by natives if any should be about, for which crimes I punished him with two dozen lashes this being an old offence of his I pardoned him three different times some time back for sleeping on his watch at Sydney...

“Friday, 11th December. The very favourable weather we have had since our arrival here is to be thanked for enabling us to so soon fill our water as I expected this business would have detained me 9 or 10 days. At noon ran over to Lady Nelson’s Point and there anchored in the mouth of Salt Water Lagoon 7 fathoms.

“Saturday, 12th December. Sent the first mate up Salt Water Lagoon to get swans; he, however, found none but in afternoon and evening shot two large ones at Lady Nelson’s Point. P.M. Having discovered that Robert Warren had laid an infamous plan to get the first mate, Mr. Bowen, broke and otherwise disgraced by acquainting me and all the company belonging to the vessel that he was a notorious thief and embezzler of King’s stores, I, upon the fullest and clearest investigation of the matter, finding it to be a most diabolical falsehood put Warren in double irons intending to deliver him up to the rigour of the civil law on our arrival at Sydney should a speedier way of sending him not occur during the cruise. A.M. Sent the first mate to the north-west Branch in the gig to look for water swans and birds.

“Sunday, 13th December. At 8 A.M. the first mate returned in the gig having shot 9 large and small swans, the large ones when fit for use weighed 8 and 9 pounds each. At sunset native fires on ye distant hills.

“Monday, 14th December. Sent the first mate and party in a launch to overhaul the back of Tortoise Point.

“Tuesday, 15th December. A.M. Hove up and ran over into Elizabeth’s Cove where we anchored. Sent first mate and boat’s crew down to Seal Island to procure some skins...

“Wednesday, 16th December. I walked along the beach 6 or 7 miles, but saw no signs of any strangers being here since we left this place.

“At 4 P.M. I returned on board, the launch also came on board, they knocked down a few seals but there was too much surf, in consequence the officer returned, he reported that no person could have visited that island since we left this harbour as the seals were as plentiful as ever and several thousand pups lying on shore. As it continued calm all night, and seeing we could proceed to sea this day; I again sent him with a party to Seal Island to get some of the skins both as specimens for Government and for our own uses as several of the people were without hats or shoes...Served out fishing line and 4 hooks to each mess, the crew of the launch having yesterday caught several rock fish at Grant’s Point.

“Thursday, 17th December. Making ready for sea. Observed that for these several days past the native fires had advanced nearer to us, and this day saw one fire that could be no more than 4 or 5 miles inland.

“Friday, 18th December. At 2 P.M. the first mate and party returned from Seal Island with some skins which run very small...This time the officer found remains of fires and a number of bamboo pegs, also a club. The Harrington must have been here, but where she could have lain at anchor we could not discover; if any place along this beach, it is curious that not the least signs of her are to be found as I walked down from one end almost to the other. P.M. I sent Bond and Missing, two soldiers, to cut some more wood, doing which they were fortunate enough to discover a spring of water...I went on shore and found on clearing it with our hands that at once we got 100 gallons of very good water...In the morning a spring was found that proved equal to the watering in a few days a line of battleships. Pleased with this circumstance took a gang of hands on shore and made a good road to it, we also cleared the spring of all the dirt, roots and boughs of fallen and decayed trees that had got into it...we bailed out of it at least 2 or 3 tons of water and found the bottom to be a rock of very large stones collected together...in half an hour after it was entirely empty it was again quite full of clear good water. We now filled all our empty casks and everything on board that would hold water intending to go to sea when the wind would permit. As in this cove wood is in plenty, and the water is not above 50 yards from the seaside; a vessel of any size may be wooded and watered in two or three days and ride secure from all wind either close in or further out. It is the best place in the harbour for any vessel to lay in whether her stay is short or long...The soil of this island as far as we have penetrated is very sandy; no black mould is seen, the trees are very small and very decayed, nor does the small shrubbery grow with much vigour although pleasing to the eye; in short this cove and island can supply a ship in abundance with what is generally considered the greatest of her wants yet I fancy it would poorly pay a settler. To-day we saw a fire which I fancy could not have been more than 4 miles from Tortoise Point and perhaps 7 from the vessel.

“Saturday, 19th December. Finished the pathway to watering-place, having made it level and fit to roll butts on. At 5 P.M. saw a large fire lighted on the opposite beach nearer the entrance of the harbour, it might be 6 or 7 miles from the vessel, and in a little time it was left, and nearer to us, at a little distance from the beach, another very large fire was made. Expecting from this that in the morning I should be able to speak to them I made a large fire abreast of where we lay, the natives could not miss seeing it. In the morning no fires were to be seen which was rather odd, as besides this nearest fire, last night there were several others in sight...A.M. I got a large board hung up at the entrance of the road to the well or spring on which was painted, in oil colours, directions for any stranger how to get to the watering-place...

Friday, 25th December. At noon suddenly taken with most violent squall at West...this hurricane of wind increased so rapidly and with such fury that we were obliged to let go the best bower and till all 3 anchors bore the strain she dragged a little, struck top-gallant-mast. This squall continued for 4 hours, then settled into a westerly gale with constant thunder and lightning and at intervals very hard rain and also more sea than I supposed possible in this cove. At 11 P.M. parted our warp, my uneasiness at this was not a little however the S.B. a little relieved by best bower held on at night...

“Saturday, 26th December. From noon till 3 P.M. the gale continued to increase and a sea got up still higher than it had yet been at any time since the gale began...Made all as snug as possible for riding out the gale, the hardest by far I ever saw in this country, and as it blew dead on the shore outside nothing less than the greatest providence could have saved us had we got to sea either of the times I attempted it. At half-past 6 P.M. a lull with the appearance of good weather...7 P.M. the weather looking very bad, made a run for Lady Nelson’s Point, the gale following us as hard as ever, at half-past 9 came to an anchor off Lady Nelson’s Point at noon gale continued, however, we felt little here as we lay right under the land.

“Sunday, 27th December. Between hours of 12 and 2 A.M. having caught Henry Willis and John Missing asleep in their watch, put both in irons.. 8 A.M. vessel drove...she tailed in on a mudbank, which obliged us to weight the best bower and with the long boat lay it ahead to heave her off. At noon hove into 1/2 2 fathoms.

“Monday, 28th December. Wind at south-west at 3 P.M...up anchor and ran to leeward of Lady Nelson’s Point.

“Tuesday, 29th December. Winds at south-west. Shifted to north-west and freshened into a gale with cloudy weather: thus has this kind of weather bound us here this last 12 days...Sent the first mate and a party to see and shoot some birds.

“Wednesday, 30th December. First part the wind veered to south-west and blew so hard that we were obliged to give her the long service of the cable although we lay under the land and not half a mile from it. No fires have been seen these last three or four days.

“Thursday, 21st December. First and middle parts fine weather at 3 P.M. seeing a number of swans near Churchill’s Island, sent the First Mate in the boat to see and get some of them; he was lucky enough to catch six...Up anchor and run down into Elizabeth’s Cove. At half-past 6 P.M. came to an anchor in 7 fathoms. By half-past 7 P.M. got on board two or 300 gallons of water and some wood. The well was in fine order, overflowed and water clear. We here discovered another spring the banks of which were covered with water-cresses and wild blackberries, got some of both on board. I had intended going inland on the island some way, this was baffled by a strong wind coming from west-north-west which threw the sea into the cove not at all pleasant. I therefore up anchor and again ran up under Lady Nelson’s Point.

“Friday, 1st January 1802. All this 24 hours it has been blowing a hard gale...The New Year was ushered in with us splicing the main brace and three cheers; by the weather with a black squall of wind and rain. Released Robert Warren.

“Saturday, 2nd January. Strong gales with hard squalls, later cloudy. New slung our two Nun buoys; sent officer and some hands to cut wood. Observed fire a long way off in north-east Branch.

“Sunday, January 3rd. P.M. Sent the 1st Mate with 4 hands in launch to the River to try for some birds.

“Monday, 4th January. Variable weather. At 2 P.M. the launch returned. We have got at last some knowledge of the natives of this part of the country. The following is the substance of the report of Mr. Bowen, 1st Mate:

“At 7 A.M. left the head of Fresh Water River having in vain looked for some of the crowned birds, and having been able to shoot nothing [a few ducks excepted], having proceeded down the river, and being nearly half-way on board he observed a fire lighted on the beach between Crownhead and the entrance of the River and thinking it could be nothing but natives he immediately put back to prove this. As the boat approached the beach these blacks were perceived sitting in the same form as those of Sydney, and each of them had a bundle of spears in their hands. Our people hallowed them which they instantly answered and did not seem at all alarmed on the nearer approach of the boat, three boys made their appearance. As between the beach and the boat there lay a bank of mud about 200 yards across, Mr. Bowen could not get quite so close as he could wish, however, he singly got out and began to walk towards them, which when they perceived, they jumped upon their feet and it was now perceived that one of them was a very old man with a large bushy beard and the rest of his face besmeared with red ochre. The others were young men. They were all clothed with the skins of oppossums as far as their middle, and this old man seemed to have command over the others. As Mr. Bowen advanced they all pulled off their dress and made signs to the officer that before he came any nearer he must do the same; this was immediately complied with.

“They then all sat down again and Mr. Bowen, plucking a root of fern, advanced pretty close to them holding it up; they seemed to understand it as it was meant. When he got within a few yards of this party the old man seemed rather uneasy and began to handle his spears. Mr. Bowen then threw them a tomahawk, and one of the young men picked it up; on Mr. Bowen beckoning them to sit down, he doing the same, they again threw him back the tomahawk, and all except the old man sat down. Mr. Bowen then broke a piece of stick and cut it with the tomahawk and tyed a handkerchief to it and again reached it to them; on this, one of the young men ventured to reach his hand and take it out of the officer’s but would by no means be so familiar as to shake hands. Mr. Bowen then ate some bread and then gave them some which they did not eat, but carefully laid it by under some fern roots or leaves; on getting some ducks they took no other notice of them than to examine in what manner they were killed, what their ideas on that head were we know not as they did not take the least notice of our firearms even when, towards the latter end of the parley, it was found necessary to point one at the breast of the old man who all along was very suspicious of our designs.

“All this time they expressed a good deal of wonder at the colour of Mr. Bowen’s skin, and one of the young men made very significant signs to him that he must have washed himself very hard. They now made signs for Mr. Bowen to go back to the boat and pointed down along the beach to Crown Head. Mr. Bowen accordingly went into the boat and pulled down as they walked, after pulling about 1 1/2 miles they stopped and beckoned for the boat to come in here 3 women made their appearance each with a child at her back. Mr. Bowen went on shore here, little passed on either side further than on Mr. Bowen asking for fire to warm himself. They pointed to the boat and made signs for him to go there and get it the women sometimes shook their hands to him, and the boys laughing and hooping. A few more trifles were here given to them. A little before this all our people got out of the boat stark naked as was desired and walked somewhat near the natives, on which the old man sent the boys away to the women, and he, after having been in a great passion, made signs for us to go to the boat, began to retire with his face to us and brandishing his spear as that everyone thought he would heave it, when our people turned their backs the young men seemed more quiet. As we saw that all hope of further intercourse for the present was at an end Mr. Bowen ordered Bond to fire his piece over their heads in order to make good his retreat to the boat. This had the desired effect, as they one and all were out of sight in an instant. Before this they must have taken the musket for nothing but a stick. All the weapons they possessed were their spears [of a small size] and a stone tomahawk along with the wumera they throw with. With respect to their size the young men were much the same as those of Sydney or Jarvis Bay. They were not deficient in making out our signs, and we were easy able to understand from their motions what they would be at. From there being but little food for them on the beaches here, and their being clothed in the skins of the oppossums, I presume they are Bush natives, the women, I forgot to mention, appeared to be middling well shaped, and good-looking children, they were, however, always at some distance.

“Mr. Bowen and the people having joined the boat came on board. Observed all the remainder of the day they retired back into the woods and about 6 P.M. dous’d their fire at once although it must have covered an acre of ground. At 4 A.M. a light wind sprung up at east, got our kedge hove short, loosed sails and hove up made sail for Elizabeth’s Cove...”

Tuesday, 5th January. Winds from south-east to east with cloudy weather. At quarter past 1 P.M. Cape Shank bore north-east by north 9 miles. Kept running down along the land steering west and west by north in order to traverse the whole of this land, found it impossible to survey any part of the coast as yet from the numerous native fires which covered this low shore in one volume of smoke. At 3 P.M. we saw ahead land bearing west-north-west distant 12 miles, and an opening in the land that had the appearance of a harbour north-west 10 or 12 miles, bore away for this last it having the appearance of fine steady weather...Accordingly kept standing down for this entrance which every minute from its appearance made us sure it was a good harbour. At 5 P.M. saw a small island in the entrance and observed that between it and the main lay a reef...the 1st Mate and the the Boatswain’s Mate at the masthead looking out. At this time I suppose we were within 1 1/2 miles of the entrance...and I perceived that the sea broke short and was withal heavy hove the lead and found only 10 fathoms water...Astonished at this, I hauled our wind and called out to them at the masthead to know if they saw any danger, but none was seen. I bore away and deepened into 11 fathoms when Mr. Bowen called out “Rocks ahead,” immediately hauled our wind and stood off...going often to the masthead I saw that the reef did nearly stretch across the whole way, but inside saw a sheet of smooth water of great extent. From the wind blowing dead on this shore, I was obliged to haul off to clear the land, but with a determination to overhaul it as no doubt it has a channel into it and is apparently a fine harbour of large extent. Kept pressing sail and by 8 P.M. the extremes of land bore from north-west to west distance 20 miles...the wind blew about as much as our vessel likes and I am convinced that no vessel would have done more I wish I could say as much for her in light winds...At daylight the haze over the land at east, and east-north-east with a heavy sea. I did not like to bear down on a lee shore and so kept our wind stretching for the westernmost side of the bay...no part of this bay as yet has been surveyed owing to the sea, wind and the before-mentioned numerous fires of the natives, but as our courses and distance were all with a free wind till we hauled off...there will be no great mistake found in that part of this bay laid down. Till 8 P.M. from our run from Western Port the soil of all the land from abreast of Elizabeth’s Cove to Cape Shanks is excellent; after you round Cape Shanks and stand to west the land is invariably low and sandy with little hummocks here and there of grass and small bushes till you get down as far as this supposed harbour; on the opposite side the land gently rises a little for about 10 or 12 miles, seemingly good ground, it then sweeps away in a long bight of low land which we could just perceive at sundown...At noon saw the distant appearance of land on our larboard beam and from latitude observed 38 degrees 48 minutes 14 seconds, I take it to be somewhere near about Cape Shanks; bore away for Cape Albany Otway. Altitudes for Time-keeper one giving Longitude 144 degrees 35 minutes 00 seconds and the second Longitude 144 degrees 35 minutes 45 seconds east. All these 24 hours sound ground from 45 to 33 fathoms. Sand mixed with shells and brown specks.

“Wednesday, 6th January. Kept running for Cape Albany and by 7 P.M. having nearly run into its latitude stood off and on during night. In the morning it was very hazy otherwise would have seen the land. At half-past 9 A.M. saw Cape Albany, bearing west-north-west 10 or 12 miles distance and Cape Danger north-west 16 or 17 miles; both these capes marked with white sandy front and middling high, all the land between is sandy hills and long sandy beach, as also what part of the land we saw stretching into Portland Bay. Ground invariably mixed with shells and brown specks, sometimes a little gravel, till the last time when we had 24 fathoms fine sand. At the time Cape Albany bore 26 or 27 miles. At noon hauled our wind for Harmingar Rock but owing to heavy sea and wind did not make better than south-east course the vessel labouring and pitching a great deal.

“Thursday, 7th January. From noon till 5 P.M. strong winds at north-north-east and a confused heavy sea...This weather settled into hard gale at south-west by 7 a tumultuous sea up and we laboured much and lurched very heavy. At 6 A.M. it cleared set sails, out all reefs intending to make Governor King’s Island while this clear weather continued; as it will be seen, unfavourable winds and weather has prevented me either tracing coast from Cape Shanks to Cape Albany, as after making Cape Albany from being able to run a straight course to Harminger Rock; both of these points will be attempted.

“Friday, 8th January. Altitude 145 degrees 07 minutes 15 seconds this confirmed me that we must have been driven eastward.

“Saturday, 9th January. Saw the loom of the land from the masthead which I take to be Governor King’s Island its southernmost point bore S.W.S. distant 16 miles. We could only see it now and then as the squalls passed over. Kept working to this land which I rather think is part of the same that on the 6th I saw and supposed it to be the northernmost cape, Cape Danger, and another Cape Albany. I...will in making circuit easily know them, both being sandy bluffs.

“Sunday, 10th January. Kept all night working up to land and by 7 A.M. got within 6 miles of the body of the island; kept edging down along it a 4 or 5 miles distance; the land in general high and covered with brush and now and then spots of large trees very tall. At 8 A.M. we saw two rocks we had passed at 7 A.M. make out exactly like 2 boats under sail, they are both very near the land...As we kept running down along the land I saw a low point of rock make out with a good deal of surf and the land lay so far back that I concluded at least a deep bight must be there this proved true, as we rounded it the swell of the sea which before was high greatly took off and although the wind blew hard yet as it was off shore...lowered the boat and sent Mr. Bowen and two good hands in her on shore...At half-past 11 the weather looking worse instead of better made a signal for our boat which they noticed and came off by noon they got on board, and Mr. Bowen reported that wood and excellent water was in abundance, that safe anchorage and good ground was close into the beach the soil is middling good, in short, it is an excellent place to take shelter in from all worst winds that blow in this country...Latitude of this bight is 40 degrees 00 minutes 09 seconds south and Longitude 143 degrees 57 minutes 45 seconds east.

“Monday, 11th January. Running along shore at a distance of 4 miles at 1 P.M. Saw a rock bearing west distant 10 miles and a low point north-north-west 9 or 10 miles as we run down, this point still making out made us begin to think that we should here find a bay or harbour. By 2 P.M. we completely opened it and saw it was a bay of large extent and fine shelter...where we came to anchor. Found the tide of flood running to the Westward nearly done [4 P.M.] the different parts of the bay bore as follows: Elephant Rock north by east distant at 5 miles north part of the bay north 1/2 west distant 6 miles the bottom of bay west-north-west 2 1/2 miles distant and the south point of ditto south-south-east, or 4 miles. I now went on shore, found a good deal of surf on the beach till we got on the southern side...here we landed and the first thing we saw was a number of sea elephants of an immense size lying asleep on the beach, each of them, Barnes the boatswain’s mate told me, would make 8 or 9 barrels of oil; as we rowed down the shore we took them to be bluish rocks. We found along this beach two freshwater lagoons full of those animals which made it taste brackish...We could not get near the upper part of them on account of the number of elephants playing in them both. I named the bay Elephant Bay from this circumstance.

“Tuesday, 12th January. Boat returned on board, they caught 4 badgers and saw several kangaroos, but were not able to get any from the thickness of the brush they also found feathers of émus and a dead one. Snakes are here, as the skin of one was found. We got several gallons of elephant oil out to-day as a specimen to Government and for our own use...some wood growing here reported different to any seen before...

“Wednesday, 13th January. Received some specimens of wood and some water. At half-past 10 up and run out of bay, hoisted in gig, running down shore; surveyed as well as weather would permit.

“Thursday, 14th January. Fair wind and cloudy. Running along shore 3 or 4 miles off and surveying it. At 4 P.M. having run as far as North-West Point, and seeing a number of breakers ahead, hove to. We could have done nothing by standing on in such weather. At 5 P.M. dropped kedge with the warp to see if that would ride her and found she would ride by it very well, furled sail and pointed yards. The land from Elephant Bay to here is rather low of sandy soil and a very long white sandy beach all this distance. The two sandy capes or rather bluffs are about 20 miles from Elephant Bay and are so remarkable that I think no person could be well mistaken in them. The course to Elephant Bay is nearly south-east by compass; no person need mistake the bay as Elephant Rock lies in the mouth of it about 3 miles from its north part. The bottom is sand gravel mixed with broken shells...At 7 A.M. got nearly as far as the second rocks and breakers, found a very high sea up. At this time saw an island bearing south-west by south. The island presents a bold rocky front to the sea and foul ground breakers and rocks lie off from it a long way. Not less than 10 miles from here, on looking to the southward, a low island is seen and due south the furthest point of land it appears altogether rather a dangerous place unless a vessel has a good breeze that can be depended on. A calm with such a current as we found here might chance to run her upon one rock or another...

“Friday, 15th January. Moderate fair weather. At 3 P.M. tacked in shore and at 4 P.M. shortened sail and stood off and on within 2 or 3 miles of the sand bluffs; lowered gig and sent the First Mate in her on shore to examine this part of the island, found the variation to be 8 degrees 54 minutes east. At half-past 6 P.M. the boat got on board. Mr. Bowen told me that there was a very high surf on the beach, that those bluffs were entirely sand, no shells were on the beach inland he said the soil was good he found no water here, some kangaroo were seen but could not be got at, the officer shot one but it got away; he said that on going up one of the trees he perceived inland a large sheet of water which he thinks must have some entrance into it from the other side of the island. I rather think it a lagoon or swamp, nevertheless we will give the other side of the island a strict search when wind and weather will permit us to go round.

“Saturday, 16th January. At quarter past 4 A.M. breeze from north-east, hazy weather and rain, stood in for Elephant Rock. At half-past 5 A.M. made sail down the coast of island to the southward, surveying it and sounding every half-hour...From 10 to 11 A.M. standing in for land. The weather at this time cleared a little and from the masthead a low point seemed to form a kind of entrance...into a deep bight or bay, a reef of rocks was also seen to the westward of it. Stood in pretty close along the edge of the reef and sent Mr. Bowen in the gig to overhaul the place. Observed the rocks of this reef to be full of seals, sea horses and elephants. The appearance of this place being favourable...stood further in and perceived it was a deep bay.

“Sunday, 17th January. At 1 P.M. came to anchor the bottom coarse sand from where we lay East point of land bore east-north-east distant 10 miles, the Seal Reef south by east 3 or 4 miles...we sounded every part of this place where a vessel would most likely anchor and found it 14 to 7 fathoms. At 2 P.M. Mr. Bowen came off, he brought on board 3 seals with hair of prime fur and told me there was a vast quantity on shore. Elephants are also in abundance and the woods full of kangaroo, émus, badgers, etc., some few shells were found, no water seen as yet. After dinner I went on shore: the brush is very thick which rendered it impossible to get any way in, there is little doubt of plenty of water being here as we in our search started 15 or 20 kangaroo from 30 to 40 pounds weight. An emu was caught by the dog about 50 pounds weight and surprising fat. At one place on this beach an acre of ground at least was covered with elephants of a most amazing size and several were all along the beach and playing in the water. At 7 P.M. I came on board. A sea watch with the proper officer had been set as has been usual ever since we made this island...At midnight the wind increasing made sail out of the bay as I preferred riding out the gale in Elephant Bay. At 11 A.M. came to anchor in Elephant Bay. We have now overhauled and surveyed this island from its north-west and west points to its south-west points being in length about 55 or 60 miles, and although westerly winds that have blown for such a length of time have retarded our voyage yet they have enabled me to strictly search every part of the island between aforementioned points, and should a north-east wind come and remain steady for a few days we will be able to overhaul the remaining part of the island with equal accuracy. Of the advantages to be derived from this fine island I shall say but little, the plain truth is to be seen in this journal. It contains plenty of wood and water, the woods are full of animals and excellent of their kind, the shores are lined with fine oil [if I may be allowed the expression] and this part of the island has two good bays in it well sheltered from all the dangerous winds. A vessel may anchor as I did unless the wind blows from the east, south-east or north-east or north points of the compass. I named this last discovery the Bay of Seals from the number of these animals on the shores of it, and the rocks outside the bay Seal Rocks.

“Monday, 18th January. First and middle parts it blew a gale but with long lulls at times, latter a harder gale with much heavier squalls than I have yet seen in this country [the Western Port gale excepted] and it is with great satisfaction that I am able to say that our little vessel has rode it out as yet with one anchor and half a cable a proof of the goodness of the holding ground...At 8 the boat brought on board a turn of water and 2 kangaroo were caught the increase of the gale hindered the boat from returning on shore.

“Tuesday, 19th January. From noon till 4 P.M. the gale continued. By sundown it was moderate weather; the boat returned on board...a wambuck was caught, served it, a swan and a kangaroo to ship’s company.

“Thursday, 21st January. A.M. Sent Mr. Bowen in the gig to Elephant Rock with directions to sound all the parts of this bay we did not run over in the vessel.

“Friday, 22nd January. P.M. The boat returned on board. Mr. Bowen found the soundings all the distance from the vessel from 9 to 10 and 11 fathoms and good ground. Close to the Elephant Rock there are 10 fathoms. This rock is about 1 1/2 miles in circumference and it is entirely covered with seals of prime fur some of which the officer brought, there might be 6 or 7,000 seals of different sizes on shore. A.M. Sent boat to Elephant Rock for skins and another for wood and water.

“Saturday, January 23rd. P.M. The launch returned with some sealskins of prime fur and I was told that the Rock was full of mutton-birds, in consequence of this I had the boat on shore and procured 80 or 90 of them, served ditto to the people.

“Sunday, January 24th. Throughout this 24 hours the weather has been remarkably thick and hazy...stood off and on till 4 P.M...then we made some sail to get sight of land if possible before dark and by 8 P.M. saw the north-west point of the Bay of Seals being north by west distant 5 miles, 2 Seal Rocks distant 6 miles north by east...at 2 A.M. found the vessel close to the breakers and a strong ripple of a current with a very confused jump of a sea. Tacked and stood off till daylight. By 6 A.M. we saw the distant looming of the land, bearing north-west, and perceived that all round us...lay rocks and dangerous breakers, one bore south-west [a large rock 3 miles] another south-south-west 3 1/2 another south 4 miles and one west 5 miles, that one which bore south-south-west, John Johnson told me he thought it Harbinger Rock, having seen it when with Mr. Black, commander of the Harbinger. At 8 A.M. made sail to the north-east...At noon strong winds at south hauled her off East.

“Before I close this log it may be proper to observe that from the very long run of bad weather we have had and being so often baffled in our attempts to get round the end of the island which is full of danger and moreover have seen all the land that lies between its north-west and west points to its south-west points from which these dangerous rocks and breakers lie about 7 or 8 miles I now determined to stand off to Albatross Island in a straight line for this reef for we could not venture too close unto land it having every appearance of a gale from south or south-east either of which blow in on the shore. This reef I named Lady Nelson Reef from our so narrowly escaping being on shore on it, this however is only to distinguish it from others for I have not the least doubt but it is what Mr. Bass gave me a sketch of, the latitude and longitude so well correspond with his. I fancy also it is what was seen in the Martha schooner in 1799 along with the land, all of which is one island...Thus we took leave of this large and fine island where the benevolent hand of Providence has fixed the chief necessaries of life and the means to procure some of its luxuries. We kept on East expecting it would soon blow a gale and a heavy sea up. I much lament not having as yet had it in my power from the series of unfavourable weather we have had so exactly to comply with the Commander-in-Chief’s orders as I could have wished.

“Monday, January 25th. From noon till half-past 1 P.M. we run due east 8 miles, we then saw from masthead Hunter’s Islands bearing [the middle of them] south-south-east distant 5 or 6 leagues...Under the lee of Three Hummock Island in smooth water we laid under easy sail off and on all night found the tides here to run very strong. In the morning I sent boat on shore with the First Mate and 2 hands, by noon they returned having shot 2 ducks and found a spring of water, some small kangaroo were seen but not worth shooting even could they have been got at. The footsteps of a man were seen on shore, perhaps one of the Harrington’s Lascars as the foot was measured and found very small. The shores of this island are bold rock and some dangerous reefs lie off it, one of which [a sunken one] we did not escape by 10 yards...Lady Nelson’s Reef is east-south-east and west-north-west distance about 30 miles in Latitude 40 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds south and Longitude by Time-keeper 145 degrees 40 minutes 53 seconds, it has many sandy bights in it where I would not scruple to anchor in south-south-west, south-east and east winds.

“Tuesday, January 26th. At half-past 12 bore away for Elephant Rock. At 5 P.M. the south extreme of Three Hummock Island bore south by east distance 19 or 20 miles...At sundown extremes of Governor King’s Island bore south-west to west by north distance 11 or 12 miles. At 8 P.M. shortened sail and threw her head off shore intending to have lain off and on all night, this was done. At 4 A.M. made sail for land and we exactly made Elephant Rock right ahead therefore the distance between Three Hummock Island and Elephant Rock is north 65 west distance 44 miles true by compass north-west by west. We then stood on for the sandy capes or bluffs and by half-past 9 A.M. the largest and perpendicular one bore south by west distant 8 or 9 miles, this I named Cape Farewell. I took a departure from it intending to run to Cape Albany [Otway]; the wind from 4 A.M. has blown at east-north-east and from that to north-east with its usual hazy dirty weather, in consequence of which we kept our wind till noon to be certain of clearing the shoals and breakers lying off this end of the island. At noon saw the looming of the western end of the island bearing distant perhaps 12 miles, the direct distance from Mid Hummock of that island to Cape Farewell is north 51 degrees west distance 56 miles true but by compass north-west a little westerly.”