THE LADY NELSON AND THE INVESTIGATOR EXAMINE THE NORTH-EASTERN SHORES OF AUSTRALIA.

In the previous chapter it has been told how Captain Flinders arrived at Port Jackson on May 9th, 1802, ten days before the departure of the Naturaliste and how he had brought news to Hamelin of his meeting with the Géographe in Encounter Bay. On his way to Sydney, Flinders had charted nearly the whole of the South Coast of Australia from Cape Lewin to Wilson’s Promontory a small portion only escaping his notice and had entered and surveyed Port Phillip.

Immediately on his arrival he consulted with Governor King as to the future explorations of the Investigator. They came to the conclusion that it would be injurious both for the ship and for her crew to attempt another survey of the South Coast at that season of the year, and decided that the Investigator, in company with the Lady Nelson, should proceed to the northward along the Australian coast and then to the westward, if it were possible, to examine the Gulf of Carpentaria before the November following when the north-west monsoon might be expected.

There was at this time a very great need of a proper survey of these shores, particularly of the portion which now forms the Queensland coast and of the reefs that skirt it. Since the days when Cook in the Endeavour had discovered these reefs, except when Flinders sailed to Hervey Bay in 1799, little had been done to make this part of Australia better known, although in the vicinity of the Great Barrier Reef both land and sea were alike dangerous to seamen and disasters were of frequent occurrence. Cook himself had met with a mishap in these waters, and Flinders afterwards was totally wrecked on the inner edge of the Great Barrier Reef. Consequently, in agreeing to Flinders’ proposal, King was conferring a real benefit upon the whole of the shipping community. It was also decided that in the event of Flinders’ progress being retarded, or if he were unable to examine the Gulf of Carpentaria, he should either explore Torres Strait or return and survey Fiji. Eventually, however, it was found possible for him to carry out the exploration of the Gulf.

Mr. Westall, landscape painter, with Mr. Robert Brown, botanist, and other scientists, sailed in the Investigator. Bungaree, the Rose Bay native who had accompanied Flinders on his voyage in the Norfolk to Hervey Bay also went with him as well as a Sydney black fellow named Nanbury. Murray was given a code of signals for the Lady Nelson and was directed by Flinders, in case of the ships being separated, to repair to Hervey Bay, which he was to enter by a passage between Sandy Cape and Breaksea Spit said to have been found by South Sea whalers.

The two ships left Sydney together on July 22nd, 1802, but the Lady Nelson was soon in difficulties, and was left astern at Port Stephens. Shortly afterwards the Investigator lay to, to await her coming. On Saturday 24th writes Flinders, “our little consort being out of sight we stood an hour to the southward, and not seeing her in that direction bore away along the coast.” Meanwhile on the afternoon of July 26th, Moreton Island at the entrance of Moreton Bay was passed, and on Wednesday the 28th, Flinders reached Sandy Cape where he immediately began to seek for a passage into Hervey Bay. One was found but proved too shallow for the Investigator to pass through, so the ship was brought to two miles from the Spit.

On the 30th the Lady Nelson came up with the Investigator anchoring near her at sunset. After leaving Sandy Cape, Captain Flinders found that the trend of the land differed noticeably from that laid down by Cook in his chart. On August 7th Port Curtis was discovered and on the 21st Port Bowen, but by October 17th, when off the Cumberland Isles [a group off the east coast of Queensland in 20 degrees south], the Lady Nelson had become so unfit for service that she had to be sent back to Sydney.

The vessels at the time were within the Great Barrier Reef, and Flinders states that he kept the brig with him until a passage out to sea clear of the reefs could be found. It is a matter of much concern to me, he writes to Banks, “that this navigation could not be surmounted without such a loss of anchors to both vessels and of damage...to the Lady Nelson in the loss of her main keel and the damage done to the trunk.” It was also found that her capacity of beating to windward, never great, was much reduced. And again in his journal he says, “the Lady Nelson sailed so ill and had become so leewardly since the loss of the main and part of the after keel that she not only caused us delay but ran great risk of being lost.” Therefore, much as he desired the aid of the small vessel, Flinders decided to proceed on his voyage alone.

Soon after he had separated from Flinders, Murray, in order to spare the Lady Nelson’s sole remaining anchor, gave orders for two swivel guns crossed, to be lashed together, and when winds were light and waters smooth, he anchored with the swivels until the carpenter was able to make an ironbark anchor to take their place. In the following pages Murray relates the full story of the Lady Nelson’s voyage both when she was with the Investigator and also after the two ships had parted company.

With the investigator.

The Lady Nelson on discovery in company with H.M.S. Investigator.

“Thursday, July 22nd, 1802. Preparing for sea. At 2 P.M. the Investigator made the signal for all persons to return on board. At 3 P.M. weighed and made sail down the harbour: by 1/2 past 7, cleared the Heads; 1/2 past 9 North Head of Port Jackson, south-south-west distant 18 miles.

“Friday, July 23rd. At 4 P.M. the Coal Island bore north by east 15 or 16 miles and the South Head of Port Stephens north-north-east 20 or 22 miles...Received orders to keep ahead during the night and show a light now and then, steering north-east by east. At 8 spoke the Commander who told us to keep in his wake.

“Saturday, July 24th. At half-past 5 P.M. the Commander made the signal to come within hail, spoke him and was ordered to keep near him during night.

“Sunday, July 25th. From noon until 11 P.M. gale continued with a high sea which continually broke on board. At daylight we perceived from the land that a southern current ran so strong that we were nearly in the same place as at noon...

Monday, July 26th. Standing down along shore. By 4 P.M. saw what we supposed was a ship and supposed it to be the Investigator, accordingly stood in for her, but a squall of rain coming on hindered our seeing her; fired a gun but no answer was received, at 8 fired a second gun with a light at the masthead but got no answer...Bore north-north-east and to our surprise by midnight found ourselves close to a very high head of land which owing to being covered with clouds we did not before see. Turned up the hands and made all sail and by 1 A.M. with much difficulty we cleared it...

“Monday, July 27th. At 2 P.M. Solitary Islands bore west by north distant 7 miles.

Wednesday, July 28th. At 1 P.M. Mount Warning bore west by north distant 15 or 16 miles...At daylight saw the land from west-south-west to N.W.S., noon the northern end of Moreton Island bore west by north distant 5 or 6 leagues.

Thursday, July 29th. At 8 A.M. Double Island Point bore north-west by west about 5 or 6 miles. Stood into Wide Bay in hopes of finding the Investigator there, as we stood round the northern end of Double Island saw a number of natives who waved their hands to us; all round the bay were numbers of fires. In the mouth and on the south side of Wide Bay lie two rocks with bold water round them, not laid down in the chart, and those rocks bare from the north end of Double Island north-east by north distance 1 1/2 miles.

Friday, July 30th. At 5 P.M. the north extremes of the land bore north 1/2 east distant 15 or 16 miles. Observed numerous natives all along the coast. At sunrise Indian Head bore north-north-west distant 3 miles, as we neared it, counted 25 natives on it. Made all sail for Sandy Cape and by 11 A.M. entered a passage between two reefs, at the same time from the masthead saw the Investigator bearing north-west distant about 10 or 11 miles.

“Saturday, July 31st. Fine weather. At 2 P.M. on the turn of tide sent the boat ahead to tow, hove up, and made all sail; cleared the shoals that surrounded this reef. The Investigator standing down to us sent a boat with the Master on board to give assistance if wanted, at half-past 4 P.M. ye Commander came to; at 5 P.M. we also came to in 4 fathoms of water bottom fine sand and waited on ye Commander. At half-past 6 A.M. hove up and made sail in shore and at half-past 8 A.M. came to near enough to cover the landing of the boats of both vessels. Captain Flinders and a number of the officers and gentlemen landed and I went on shore with an armed party in order to get wood. In a little time Captain Flinders and his party were joined by about 30 of the natives all of whom laid down their arms and we continued on friendly terms with them all the time the parties were on shore. Captain Flinders made them presents of red caps, tomahawks, etc. with which they were much pleased and gave back some baskets and nets. With respect to the persons of these natives, I perceived little or no difference from the Sydney blacks; their language is much different, as Bungaree could not understand a word they said.

“Sunday, August 1st. Fine weather. At 2 P.M. the gentlemen with their parties returned to the beach. We all embarked in the Investigator’s boat, got on board the Lady Nelson; at 3 P.M. came to in 5 fathoms, Captain Flinders then left us. At 7 P.M. the Commodore weighed; hove up and followed him with all sail. At noon saw the looming of Sandy Cape east by south 7 or 8 leagues.

“Monday, August 2nd. Fine weather. At 1 P.M. Commodore on our lee beam 2 miles; quarter past 5 P.M. the Commodore came to, at half-past we came to under the stern of the Commodore. At 6 A.M. got under weigh. At 10 A.M. answered signal to come within hail, the Commodore desired we would keep in shore of him.

“Tuesday, August 3rd. Fine weather. At 4 P.M. Bustard Bay bore west-north-west distant 3 or 4 miles. On this point a very large fire was burning and numbers of natives were there. Hauled in for the Bay and shoaled our water; came to in 5 fathoms water. At sundown lowered down small boats and waited on the Commander. At 6 A.M. made sail with the Investigator, passed the first rock lying off the western point of Bustard Bay.

Wednesday, August 4th. At half-past 3 perceived one of the Investigator’s boats to be adrift, bore away to pick her up. At sundown the western extremes of the land bore west-south-west distant 15 miles. At 8 P.M. passed the stern of the Commodore who hailed us and told us he would tack every two hours during the night. At daylight saw the land bearing south-south-east. At noon the northern point of Bustard Bay bore south-south-east distant 4 or 5 leagues.

Thursday, August 5th. Kept slipping along the land. At half-past 6 P.M. having run under the stern of the Commodore came to. At quarter past 10 A.M. the Commodore made signal I see an opening, answered ditto. Immediately after answered signal steer in shore and look out for anchorage. Observing numbers of natives and canoes on the beach, kept running in. At quarter past 10 A.M. beheld from our masthead a large sheet of water with a rocky island in the entrance and seemingly got shelter. At 11 A.M. came to in 3 fathoms water and made the signal to the Commodore come no nearer in, and he came to lowered down our boat, I went and sounded in shore and found the water to deepen to 8 fathoms. Waited on the Commodore, received orders to follow his boat into the harbour sent our people to heave up. At noon one of the Investigators boats went on shore to the beach where the natives and their canoes were.

Friday, August 6th. At 1 P.M. hove up and run further into the opening. I then went on shore to a small rocky island on which Captain Flinders was taking angles and we got some firewood. I went in Captain Flinders boat across to a middling high hill on the opposite side of this stream, got to the top and saw that the sheet of water ran into several serpentine branches and that apparently the deepest water was to the south-east of us; and that this south-east entrance and the one in which we lay formed a pretty large island lying in a north-west and south-east line. We joined the boat and sounded in a traverse to ascertain whether it was possible for the Lady Nelson to move higher up. We found however only from 3 to 5 feet of water and foul ground throughout a narrow space through which the vessel must pass. In consequence of which Captain Flinders desired me to get under weigh and work round the island to the south-east entrance and to find a channel into the harbour. Accordingly weighed, by 7 P.M. passed the Investigator. At daylight made all sail to gain the entrance and by 9 A.M. nearly fetched it, from the masthead at the time I saw a long range of breakers from the entrance stretching away south-east to east-south-east which made me to be in some doubts as to an entrance existing, however I sent Mr. Hacking in the boat to sound and almost immediately we struck on a sandbank. Immediately hove up our keels and she luckily veered round in 6 feet of water and went off although we still had no more water for some time, it then gradually deepened into 6 fathoms. Fired a gun for the boat who got on board by noon and informed me that a good channel did exist, and from where we were it lay about south-south-east and may be 3/4 of a mile broad out sweep and sent the boat ahead to tow.

Saturday, August 7th. Fine weather. Standing into the entrance south-south-west. On putting our helm to starboard we immediately had from 1 1/2 3, steering west-north-west, the Investigator on our beam bearing about north-north-east distant 8 miles, and finding our water suddenly to shoal came to in 2 fathoms and observed that a little way ahead lay a long sand sheet almost dry. Tripped our anchor and run into 5 fathoms water and there came to. Fired a gun as a signal to the Commodore; observed a boat under sail a considerable distance from us in a westerly direction which I fancied was Captain Flinders in his whaleboat examining the harbour. At sunrise had out our launch and sent the First Mate in her with an armed party in search of water.

Sunday, August 8th. After dinner I went in the small boat to examine an opening on the South shore of the harbour and to look for water of which I found some, on proceeding about a mile and a half up the opening perceived it branched into several different directions. I imagine it runs some considerable distance up into the country. On returning to the vessel I found Captain Flinders with a midshipman and boats crew on board. At daylight Captain Flinders left us desiring me to get under weigh as soon as possible and get round to the Investigator. In working down we sounded constantly and found from 10 to 4 fathoms on each side, a safe channel for any ship and sufficiently broad to work in.

Monday, August 9th. At 3 P.M. got under weigh and made sail out of the harbour tacking occasionally. At 4 P.M. our boat came on board from Faceing Island having found water in small quantities. By 6 P.M. we weathered the south-east point of Faceing Island and stood down towards the Investigator. At 15 past 7 P.M. struck on some sunken reef of rocks about 2 miles from the shore but immediately heaving up all our keels she went over them into deeper water without any damage. At half-past 8 P.M. fired a gun and hoisted a light at the masthead which was answered by the Investigator. By midnight came to with the small bower about 2 cables lengths from the Commodore. At daylight hoisted in our boat, on the Commodore getting under weigh, we did the same. At half-past 9 A.M. passed in between the Rocky Island and Cape Capricorn. At half-past 10 Captain Flinders hailed us and told us to try for a passage in between some rocks and the main of Keppel’s Bay. At 50 minutes past 11 A.M. perceived all foul ground ahead in this passage, hauled out and informed the Commodore. At noon bore up for the western part of the Bay, Cape Capricorn bearing east by south distance 10 or 11 miles.

Tuesday, August 10th. At half-past 3 P.M. came to one cable length from the Investigator, lowered our boat and I waited on Captain Flinders. At half-past 4 P.M. Captain Flinders, some of his officers and I went on shore. On ascending one of the highest hills, we perceived the bay to be very extensive with several openings. Here we found a fresh water swamp and saw some ducks and redbills. At sundown Captain Flinders and party returned on board, and Captain Flinders came on board. Weighed and made all sail up the bay. Come to in 3 fathoms a large island in the mouth of the bay North distance 7 or 8 miles.

“Wednesday, August 11th. Saw Captain Flinders come out of the entrance he yesterday went into and stand along the south shore of the bay.

Thursday, August 12th. At 3 P.M. Commodore made the signal I want to speak to you. Immediately got the vessel under weigh and by half-past 4 P.M. passed his stern when he hailed us to come to an anchor a little distance from him. I waited on Captain Flinders who told me that at daylight I was to get under weigh and proceed to a large island [one of Keppels] and overhaul it for turtle for the use of both vessels and to get the bearings of all the islands in sight from the top of the said island as also to find whether there were wood and water upon the island. When we anchored Outermost Rock east-south-east 2 miles.

“Friday, August 13th. At 1 P.M. I went on shore to the island, on examining the beaches and rocks no water was found. I ascended all the hills and walked from one to the other nearly the whole length of the island but found no water or wood. The hills are covered with thick shrubbery and grass and full of stones, from the top of the highest part of it and looking towards the sea no more islands are to be seen than those we saw coming in. On going down to the rocks that lead to the beach we fell in with some slight drains of fresh water and further discovered two chasms in the rock, in each there might be 150 or 200 gallons of water but the difficulty of getting it to a boat hinders it being of use to vessels. On the west side is a small bight with a sandy beach in its centre but the bottom is loose and always a swell tumbling into it, indeed anchorage all round it is indifferent.

“Saturday, August 14th. By 4 P.M. having run nearly into our anchorage by the Investigator came to in 5 fathoms water. Lieutenant Fowler came on board and informed me that Captain Flinders was not yet returned from examining the harbour.

“Sunday, August 15th. Fine weather throughout. Received orders to be ready to get under weigh at daylight to-morrow morning.

Monday, August 16th. At sundown observed all the seamen on liberty from the Investigator and Lady Nelson coming along the beach accompanied by a number of natives. Immediately Lieutenant Fowler and some of the gentlemen of the Investigator along with myself went on shore but on seeing us they began to run; however on all the seamen being sent away they suffered Mr. Brown to go near enough to reach them a few red night-caps and a tomahawk. They then made signs to us to be gone. They began running and were soon out of sight. These natives are a much stouter class of people than any I have yet seen [those of Jarvis Bay excepted]. On returning to the beach Mr. Evans, mate, and one of the seamen belonging to the Investigator were missing. Lieutenant Fowler and the rest of the gentlemen waited until dark in hopes of their appearing and then went on board and a boat with a midshipman was immediately sent to wait at the beach but as neither appeared the boat returned. In the morning two guns were fired from the Investigator as signals and we saw two boats go to shore we supposed to search for those missing.

Tuesday, August 17th. Seventeen of the natives came down to the beach. On seeing them a number of the officers of the Investigator went on shore. I also went. We continued on friendly terms with them all day, and it is worth remarking that they having met Mr. Evans and the one seamen led them down to the beach and even gave them a duck each to eat on their making signs of their hunger. We had a drum, fife and fiddle on shore with us but on playing and beating they signified their displeasure and some of them ran off but on our ceasing returned. We made them presents of caps, tomahawks, etc., but they would give nothing in return. Their spears and waddas are much the same as at Sydney, they dont use the throwing stick. At daylight weighed. Came to again.

“Wednesday, August 18th. At 1 P.M. hove up in the company with the Investigator tacked occasionally. By 4 P.M. cleared the bay and at 5 P.M. fell calm. Came to with kedge Cape Capricorn bearing south-east by east 13 or 14 miles, Cape Keppel south-south-east distant 5 or 6 miles and a large inhabited island, one of Keppel’s, north-north-west distant 6 or 7 miles. At daylight again in company with Commodore made all sail. By noon passed abreast the northernmost Keppel’s Island. Observed two natives on the highest part of it bellowing to us, no canoes in sight. Latitude 23 degrees 4 minutes 37 seconds south.

“Thursday, August 19th. Fine weather. Answered signal “Steer in shore and look out for anchorage” a bluff head making with the low land of the main like an entrance. As we stood in shoaled our water to 7 fathoms, made the signal to that purport. Saw a sand shoal ahead; the Investigator immediately hauled off and we did the same, saw plainly no anchorage was there, stood in and by 5 P.M. we dropped our kedge, at half-past 5 P.M. the Commodore also came to near us. At sundown the easternmost of Keppel’s Islands bore south-east by east distant 10 or 12 miles the shore point south distant 2 miles. At 7 A.M. weighed in company with the Investigator.

“Friday, August 20th. At sundown the Commodore bore north distant about 3 miles, the Sugar Loaf Island north-north-east 1/2 east distant 4 miles, and two rocky islands north-east by east distant about 3 miles. At quarter-past 9 P.M. saw a light in the north-west quarter and heard a gun fired. Immediately hoisted a light in the main top gallant masthead and fired a gun; heard no second gun. At 12 passed a low island bearing east distant 3/4 of a mile. At daylight perceived we were much farther from the land than the Log gave. Commodore not in sight. Latitude observed 22 degrees 41 minutes 28 seconds south.

“Saturday, August 21st. At half-past 4 P.M. saw the Investigator bearing north-north-west, at sundown the Investigator bore north-west by north distant 10 miles, the Sugar Loaf Island bore west by north distant 4 or 5 miles, the Low Island south-west by west distant 3 or 4 miles. At quarter past 8 P.M. heard a gun fired from the Commodore which we answered. At 9 P.M. heard a second gun fired which we answered. At daylight made all sail to come up with Commodore. At 20 past 11 came to with small bower in 7 fathoms.

Sunday, August 22nd. A.M. Sent the First Mate and a party to water and wood the vessel; hoisted our main keel out of the trunk and found half of it gone, this must have been occasioned by the shock it received at Faceing Island on Monday 9th instant, when running down to the Investigator. It also accounts for her not sailing so fast as formerly. A.M. Received one boat-load of water. I went on shore to the watering-place, it lies between two hills of a considerable height and springs out of a rock the water is both good and clear, it is convenient to be got at. resembling the pines of Norfolk Island.” Flinders.] Latitude [good] observed 22 degrees 28 minutes 58 seconds south.

“Monday, August 23rd. Reported our main keel to Captain Flinders being gone.

“Tuesday, August 24th. P.M. Hoisted in our launch and secured everything for sea. At daylight weighed and made sail in company with the Investigator. By half-past 7 A.M. got out of the bay and at 11 A.M. came to Pine Island bearing south by east 1/2 east. Distant 1 1/2 miles. Hope Point south by west 6 or 7 miles and the northern entrance south-south-west 2 miles.

“Wednesday, August 25th. At 2 P.M. weighed in company with the Investigator and made all sail. At 7 came to...At daylight weighed in company with the Investigator, worked to windward until 10 A.M. when the Investigator came to in the offing and we came to...between Rocky Island and the main, Rocky Island bearing north-east by north distant 2 1/2 miles...the nearest of the Pine Islands, south-east by east distant 3 miles.

“Thursday, August 26th. At 3 P.M. the Investigator lifted her anchor and worked to windward. At half-past 4 P.M. saw a native fire ahead. At daylight weighed with a light air at north-west. By 6 A.M. the Investigator got close into an opening ] and hoisted out 2 boats, at 8 A.M. she bore up for the entrance and we followed without sweeps rowing. At half-past 8 A.M. observed the Investigator to anchor and shortly after we were obliged to drop our kedge close to the rocks of the south-eastern entrance. I went on shore with a small party. I saw on the beach the footmarks of natives and the tracks of turtle, but nothing else worth mentioning. Apparently this is a place of very huge extent and safe for shipping. Latitude observed 22 degrees 19 minutes 33 seconds south.

Friday, August 27th. At 2 P.M. the tide having somewhat slackened and a breeze of wind coming from the north-east weighed and made all sail up the bay; by half-past 2 P.M. having passed the Investigator by about a quarter of a mile came to in 6 fathoms water. At 40 minutes past 2 P.M. the vessel swung to the flood and in half an hour its rate was found to be 3 1/2 knots per hour, it increased from that very nearly 5 knots and its rise 11 feet. At 6 P.M. one of the Investigator’s boats got upset under our stern and one man thrown into the water by the accident. He drifted down with the tide and our boat picked him up with some of the boat’s gear. At 6 A.M. got the vessel under weigh and let her drift up the bay with the tide having from 6 to 10 fathoms and from that to 5 and 8 where we anchored. The Investigator anchored a little before us. From where we lay the east point of bay bore north 47 degrees east.

“Saturday, August 28th. At 2 P.M. I received orders to get the vessel under weigh and proceed up the bay half-past 2 P.M. weighed and made sail, the Investigator following us. At half-past 3 P.M. perceived the Investigator to be aground in consequence of which we let go our kedge and I went in the boat ahead. At 5 P.M. on the Investigator floating; again got under weigh, kept standing up the bay sounding and making signals. At 6 P.M. anchored with the small bower in 5 fathoms of water.

“Sunday, August 29th. At daylight weighed in company with the Investigator and moved up a little further, sounding from 3 fathoms to 7, where we anchored. Latitude observed 22 degrees 20 minutes 56 seconds south.

Monday, August 30th. At 4 P.M. in company with the Commodore made sail a little further up the bay; we perceived a shoal nearly dry on the south-east end, it seemed to lie nearly in that direction for perhaps two miles. Waited on Captain Flinders who desired me to send our main keel on board in order to be repaired and at the same time he informed me that he would be on board in the morning and move the Lady Nelson for the examination of the bay. At daylight sent our keel on board and at half-past 6 Captain Flinders came on board, immediately weighed and made all sail to the south-east part of the bay. At half-past 10 entered a large branch or arm of the bay or river following Captain Flinders in his boat steering east and east-south-east we anchored per order of Captain Flinders and he continued on in his boat. Double Peak bore 1/2 west by south.

“Tuesday, August 31st. At half-past 2 P.M. Captain Flinders on board, and he began to work out of the branch. At 6 P.M. the tide being down came to...at daylight weighed and made sail to south-east, passed here a flat of mud with only from 8 to 9 feet water on it; by 7 A.M. having got nearer to the south shore found a channel that had from 2 to 9 fathoms.

“Wednesday, September 1st. At 7 P.M. Captain Flinders, a midshipman and boat’s crew on board. A.M. Dropped our small bower it blowing fresh. At 5 A.M. hove it up again, and the wind blowing strong from north-west and tide done, hindered our working down to the Investigator.

Thursday, September 2nd. At half-past 12 P.M. weighed and began to work to windward with the ebb tide in our favour; at half-past 4 P.M. Captain Flinders and his people left us; continued until 7 P.M. working to north-west and there came to in 7 fathoms. At daylight weighed and stood over to the Investigator and at 7 A.M. came to lowered down boat and I waited on Captain Flinders, he informed me that the Investigator would get under weigh at 9 A.M. and would run over as near to the bottom of Sugar Loaf Hill described by him as “a single round hill with a high-peaked top standing inland 2 miles from the West Bight and composed of the greenstone of the German mineralogists.”] as the water would permit and requested I would run ahead of him in the Lady Nelson and show soundings quick. Passed the Investigator astern, Captain Flinders hailed and desired me to stand up towards Sugar Loaf Hill until we had left less than 6 fathoms, did so and as it almost immediately shoaled to 4 fathoms wore round and made all sail to work back.

Friday, September 3rd. At half-past 1 P.M. came to with small bower and I waited on Captain Flinders. A.M. Hauled the seine, caught no fish and the ground being foul damaged the net.

“Saturday, September 4th. Waited on Captain Flinders who told me he shortly intended to weigh in order to proceed to Thirsty Sound and at 10 A.M. weighed in company with the Investigator. Since our arrival here on Thursday the 26th August few native fires have been seen and only once some of the Investigator’s gentlemen had intercourse with a party of natives on the shore. From their report those natives are inferior to the natives of Keppel Bay...and if we may guess from their lean appearance much worse off with respect to food; the soil of all this part of the country appears to be very indifferent and for a considerable distance from shore, low swampy mangrove clay. All round the bay are high hills, on one of the westernmost tall pines seem in abundance, the bottom is invariably blue clay...From the number of shoals lying in this place it is necessary to keep the lead constantly going, and from the great rise and fall of the tide to be careful not to anchor in less than 5 fathoms...we have experienced some sea riding at anchor the fetch being pretty extensive.

Sunday, September 5th. Standing through Northumberland Islands towards Thirsty Sound. At dusk the entrance of Thirsty Sound west by south distance 3 miles, Sugar Loaf Hill, or hill of Pines, south-east by east and the Investigator east-north-east distant three-quarters of a mile. At daylight weighed in company with the Investigator made sail in for the entrance. Received our new keel from the Investigator, and on trying to fit it to the case found it obstructed from going down by some of the copper being rubbed off and having got into the trunk, this was found to be the case by one of the people who dived under her bottom.

“Monday, September 6th. A.M. On ascending the hill, named by Captain Cook the Pier Head had a fine view of this and Broad Sound, the former appearing like a serpentine river to a great way inland and its banks showing apparently a fine country. A number of the adjacent hills are covered with long sunburnt grass that appears at a little distance like a heath or common at home, with here and there a small cluster of palm trees. Traces of the kangaroo have been seen. We have neither seen natives, their fires, nor marks here. No water has yet been found, wood is in plenty.

“Tuesday, September 7th. At 3 P.M. I received orders to get under weigh and move out ahead of the Investigator...At 5 P.M. weighed and at half-past 6 P.M. came to...At 5 A.M. finding she drove, let go our small bower. At 6 A.M. perceived the Investigator attempting to weigh, on which we [after some difficulty] weighed and began to work to windward. Observed the Investigator to drop her anchor again and clew down her sail. Came to in 6 fathoms with the small bower. Answered signal “I want to see you.” Immediately went on board the Investigator and Lieutenant Fowler informed me they had parted a Bower Cable, that, their Stream not bringing her up, a second Bower was gone and that they were in 1/2 2 fathoms water, as the tide was rapidly falling it was obvious that she immediately must be got off. For this purpose I immediately, according to Lieutenant Fowler’s plan, returned on board, veered away on our small bower to the end and let go our best bower; we then received a warp from the Investigator, made it fast on board and she was enabled to heave off into deeper water by the Lady Nelson. At noon she dropped her bower a little from our stern, cast off her warp and lifted our best bower...

Wednesday, September 8th. Cloudy weather. At half-past 9 A.M. the Investigator shifted her berth into the stream...At half-past 6 A.M. weighed in company with the Commodore made all sail out of the Sound. At noon a large island in the entrance of Broad Sound south distance 5 miles, and the Investigator east distance 1 mile.

“Thursday, September 9th. Stretching across Broad Sound, at half-past 1 P.M. suddenly shoaled our water at the same time saw the appearance of broken water ahead. At 2 P.M. spoke the Commodore who told me to steer west. A round mount north-west by west distance 3 miles. At 11 P.M. came to in company with the Commodore with best bower in 7 fathoms water. In the course of the forenoon saw several native fires on this part of the coast. Latitude observed 21 degrees 51 minutes 00 seconds south.

Friday, September 10th. At 2 P.M. weighed and made sail to the south-east sounding from 1/2 3 at low water to 1/4 less 2 on the edge of a sand shoal on which the Investigator touched but immediately swung off, we continuing. At half-past 5 A.M. perceived the Investigator to be getting under weigh, made all sail down to the Commodore. Spoke him; he told me to work between the main and one of Northumberland Islands, and said he would follow us. Stood on to windward and tacked occasionally anchored in company with the Commodore at half-past 11 A.M. under a pleasant little island. Observed Captain Flinders to go on shore, shortly afterwards I went on shore, some turtle shells were seen and the marks of natives of an ancient date. It appears that the whole of the distance between the Pier Head at Thirsty Sound and to the round mount before mentioned between the Northumberland Islands and the main has a number of sand shoals that can only be avoided by keeping the lead constantly going and a good lookout at the head otherwise a vessel would get aground, and the water falling so much and so rapidly would leave her high and dry...

“Saturday, September 11th. At 6 A.M. weighed ill company with the Investigator but she [on account of the shoals that lye off from the mainland to the island we anchored under] was obliged at 7 A.M. to drop her anchor. In the Lady Nelson we crossed the shoal in only 9 feet immediately on being over it we fell into 3, 4, and 5 fathoms. Again crossed it and ran up to the Investigator at 9 A.M., the flood having made strong over the shoal again.

Sunday, September 12th. At quarter-past 5 P.M. tacked and stood on ahead of the Investigator until we were close to a very extensive sheet of mud lying all the way from the mainland. At this place an inlet of shoal water appeared to run a good distance into the country. At sundown tacked in company with the Investigator and stood off. At 8 A.M. tacked and stood into an inlet with several dry lands appearing in it, found a good strong flood against us. At half-past 9 A.M. came to. Lowered our boat and I went on shore with a couple of hands. Saw or found nothing worth notice the soil is sandy, the shores lined with mangrove trees and inland a little distance we found gum trees and the palm; a few curlews and redbills were shot.

“Monday, September 13th. At half-past 8 weighed as per signal in company with the Commodore; found when near the Investigator the water suddenly to shoal from 6 to 3 to 1, where we touched the ground, however on heaving up our keel she went off into 2 fathoms, when we came to, observed the Investigator to ground, she was caught on a bank of quicksand in 11 feet at half-past 10 A.M. she floated, a little after Captain Flinders went away inshore, sounding. Several native fires in sight in different directions.

“Tuesday, September 14th. At half-past 1 P.M. made sail in company with the Investigator and worked to north-west where we anchored. On passing her Captain Flinders hailed us and told me to be ready at 8 o’clock in the morning to proceed to the south-east up the arm on Broad Sound. At 8 A.M. Captain Flinders and Mr. Brown on board. At half-past 8 A.M. weighed and made sail, at 40 minutes past 10 A.M. grounded in 8 feet of water, at 40 minutes past 11 A.M. weighed and made sail across the entrance of the river. From noon until 40 minutes past 1 P.M. stretching across the flats of this arm, sounding from 9 feet to 3 1/4 fathoms, where we anchored. Immediately moored with the kedge which in a little time she brought home, moored with the bowers per cable one way and 25 fathoms the other, found the tide of ebb to run at 4 P. knots and 6 fathoms. At 5 P.M. we began to touch the ground and perceived that our main keel was gone, part of it coming up alongside. Sent some of the people out to look in what situation our anchor lay and it was found that the best bower had come home and the small parted 12 fathoms from the ring. I conclude the ragged part of the main keel must have done it when she swung in ground, we tried in vain with 10 or 11 hands to lift it out of its bed. As the whole of this part of the flats are quicksands with a strong suction, bent a good warp to its crown to weigh it by when the tide rose. At half-past 1 A.M. the flood came to us with much noise and about a foot high, in 15 minutes we floated and hove up to our best bower. By 5 A.M. began again to ground, by 6 A.M. fast: at half-past 7 A.M. Captain Flinders went in his boat in search of deeper water and found one place nearer inshore where he thought it advisable to shift the Lady Nelson to, when the tide would permit. Upon the south shore we saw several native fires.

“Thursday, September 16th. At 2 P.M. loosed sails, sheeted home and hoisted them, weighed and stood in shore. Found the strength of the tide here to be 3 1/2 knots.

“Friday, September 17th. At half-past 5 P.M. Captain Flinders returned having found the arm to terminate in shoals of sand. At 3 A.M. weighed and made sail in order to join the Investigator but by half-past 4 A.M. we grounded and there were obliged to lye from the ebb falling so fast. Captain Flinders, Mr. Brown and the boat’s crew left us. Here we had an opportunity of looking at the vessel’s bottom, the sand being firm. Found one sheet and a half of copper torn off her garboard streak, one off the starboard bow, and on the bows the anchor had torn the copper in some degree; from the want of copper nails could not repair those hurts until we joined the Investigator.

Saturday, September 18th. At 2 P.M. weighed and began to work to windward...anchored near the Investigator. A.M. I waited on Captain Flinders and was advised to lay the Lady Nelson on shore in order to repair her copper; in consequence of which Lieutenant Fowler and I went to examine a sand inshore of the vessels and finding that sand fit for the purpose, reported the same to Captain Flinders; got our main keel out of the trunk, found 4 feet of it gone and also 4 feet of the after keel carried away.

“Sunday, September 19th. At half-past 6 A.M. weighed and ran into 5 feet water. At half-past 8 A.M. the Investigator weighed and stood to the eastward. At 9 A.M. we grounded; by noon we were able to replace part of the copper torn off her bottom.

“Monday, September 20th. Fine weather throughout. By 3 P.M. she floated, weighed, ran into 5 fathoms water and anchored. At 6 A.M. weighed and grounded.

“Tuesday, September 21st. At 3 P.M. she began to float, by 4 hove her off, weighed and ran into 5 fathoms water where we anchored. A.M. Sent a party on shore to cut wood. Investigator still in sight.

“Wednesday, September 22nd. A party on shore cutting wood and stuff for brooms. A.M. Received on board two boat-loads of wood; sent a party after kangaroo, some were seen at a distance but none were shot. Shifted the fore keel aft and the after one [when we had repaired it as well as we could] forward. The main keel we could not make fit after our carpenter had worked on it several days, I rather suppose the trunk is injured in its inside.

“Thursday, September 23rd. Set up our rigging and stays fore and aft; sent the carpenter on shore to cut spars to fit our several guns on.

“Friday, September 24th. Fine weather, moderate winds throughout. A.M. Perceived the Investigator under weigh standing over to us.

“Saturday, September 25th. The Investigator in sight working towards us; at half-past 8 A.M. she came to an anchor within half a mile of us. I waited on Captain Flinders and informed him we were ready for sea.

“Sunday, September 26th. The Investigator struck her tents on shore. Received from her gunner half a barrel of gunpowder and one quire of musket cartridge paper, and 17 fathoms of old rope for lashing beams.

“Monday, September 27th. At half-past 6 A.M. Weighed in company with the Investigator made all sail to the north-west. We were both obliged to come to; the wind freshening, we weighed, but it again dying away we anchored. At half-past 9.A.M. made sail.

Tuesday, September 28th. At half-past 3 A.M. weighed in company with H.M.S. Investigator and made sail to northward. At 6 A.M. spoke the Commodore and received orders to keep ahead. A high island we passed this morning south by west distant 12 or 14 miles, a high short island under our lee north-west by west distant 10 or 11 miles. Long high land on our weather bow north-east by north distant 11 or 12 miles. Latitude observed 21 degrees 52 minutes 41 seconds south.

Wednesday, September 29th. Stood after the Commodore. At this time I perceived that several of the islands in sight were covered with pines of the same kind as Port Number 2. At half-past 7 P.M. anchored with the kedge; answered a signal light from the Investigator with one at the main. At daylight weighed and stood towards the Investigator. At half-past 5 A.M. she also weighed and we proceeded a little nearer to the large island mentioned in yesterdays log and on turn of tide we came to. Observed Captain Flinders in his whale-boat go ashore with several of the officers and gentlemen, not to the large island but to a small island within about 2 miles of it and from which it bore west-south-west. At half-past 9 A.M. hove up and made towards the Commodore who was under weigh, standing on to the body of a large pine island. Kept standing up for a sandy beach on the southern end of the large Pine Island and at half-past 11 A.M. the Commodore dropped anchor; stood on past him and at noon came to with the kedge the small Pine Island bearing south-west by west distant 1 1/4 miles Peak of Pines like a sugar loaf north distant 5 or 6 miles....

“Thursday, September 30th. I went on shore and by a narrow passage entered a sheet of water entirely surrounded by the mountainous part of the island, with here and there pines which on the whole has a beautiful and romantic appearance. I searched for fresh water but found none, however Captain Flinders found plenty. A.M. I went on shore with a party in order to clear a rolling way for our casks as also did captain Flinders and Lieutenant Fowler with 20 men, by noon this was completed and the well began to be dug and cleared out; by an unlucky accident the dry grass with which most of the ground is covered caught fire and burnt with great fury driving the people away from the principal watering-place.

“Friday, October 1st. On shore digging wells and clearing them out. By half-past 3 P.M. the fire had increased so as to make us retreat to the sandy beach and even here it nearly reached us by 7 P.M. It continued to burn all night...covering the whole of the hills [particularly the tops] with a fringe of white fire while all the way down to the bases resembled a large town on a dark night well lighted up. By the morning it had considerably abated.

“Saturday, October 2nd. Employed completing our water which was done by sunset and the hold stowed. Secured everything for sea. The Investigator continued watering. Found a part of our best bower cable so much decayed from wear that I cut off, from the anchor end, 15 fathoms and fresh bent it again. Before we leave this island I think it proper to observe it lies [from where we lay at anchor] about north by east and south by west its latitude is 21 degrees 40 minutes 02 seconds south and its longitude by Timekeeper 150 degrees 23 minutes 27 seconds east, it will easily be known from a high peak of stones that at a distance will look like its northern end. On this peak several pines are growing. On its northern end is a sandy beach from which the entrance of the circular sheet of water is immediately seen. On this beach we caught the first day plenty of fish and it is remarkable that since few have been caught. Bearing south-west from this place at about 2 miles distance is a small island of pines with two or three rocks lying about it, to the westward at a distance of 8 or 9 miles is a rugged island with two peaks covered with pines, one of them much higher than the other, and to the north-west about 10 or 11 miles is an island of table-land with a bluff head on its southern end all round are islands of different sizes but this watering island cannot be mistaken or missed.

“Monday, October 4th. At 6 A.M. weighed in company with the Investigator and made sail to the Northward.

Tuesday, October 5th. Worked to windward...at 5 P.M. tacked. At sundown the Stony Peak on watering island bore south by west high peak of Pines west distant 2 1/2 or 3 miles. At noon the high Peak of Pines bore south-west by south distant about 17 or 18 miles, the peak on Watering Island south-south-west distant 19 or 20 miles.

Wednesday, October 6th. At half-past 1 answered signal Follow me, answered signal Make sail ahead. At this time we saw a long range of sand reefs in the east and west direction and three small rocks bore north-east by north distant 2 1/2 or 3 miles. Answered signal of Danger, following the Investigator and keeping a good lookout from the mast-head. At half-past 1 P.M. the high peak of pines bore south-south-west distant about 22 miles which proves those extensive reefs to be placed very erroneously on the chart owing to the incorrectness of Messrs. Swaine and Campbell, they having laid them down nearly 2 degrees off the land instead of which they are only distant 20 miles from the nearest island. Quarter past 6 P.M. came to in 28 fathoms with the kedge; the Investigator north-east by north quarter of a mile distant. At daylight the Investigator began to heave up and we did the same, by 6 A.M. made sail. Received orders to keep ahead with a good lookout for shoals. Saw a shoal of sand with two small rocks on it from north-east; at half-past 10 A.M. being within 2 miles of the shoal tacked. At noon the rocks on the shoal bore north-west a little westerly distant 2 miles. Received additional instructions signals and cd. from Captain Flinders.

Thursday, October 7th. Stood on after the Investigator and weathered the last-mentioned reef of coral. At half-past 4 A.M. weighed and made sail to the south-east. At half-past 10 A.M. saw a reef of coral ahead, several parts of which were above water considerably much like the appearance of boats under sail.

“Friday October 8th. At half-past 5 P.M. tacked to the northward, reefs still in sight. At 9 A.M. tacked after the Commodore, a reef of coral rock bearing east to east-north-east distant 4 or 4 1/2 miles. At noon the Investigator bore north by east distant 1 1/2 miles, a shoal of sand apparently bearing north distant 5 or 6 miles, another bearing north-east by north distant 4 miles and a small rock on an extensive shoal of sand east by south distant 1 1/2 miles, this shoal seems to stretch a long way from east-south-east to north-east. Latitude observed 20 degrees 54 minutes 42 seconds south.

“Saturday, October 9th. From 2 P.M. until 3 [after having weathered the East point of this shoal] we ran along its other side. At half-past 5 P.M. came to. From the mast-head shoals in every direction. At half-past 5 A.M. weighed in company with the Commodore and stood to the north-eas A.M. Perceiving a strong ripple close to us and supposing it to be shoal water let go our kedge and made the signal of danger to the Commodore who also came to and sent his boats to sound as did we but found no less than 15 fathoms. At 11 A.M. the Investigator’s whale-boat made the signal for shoal water and the Commodore made the signal to anchor which we immediately did in 22 fathoms, bottom small coral and shells. The Investigator also anchored. We found ourselves within a cable’s length of a shoal and all round shoals of sand and extensive coral reefs. Latitude observed 20 degrees 51 minutes 38 seconds south.

“Sunday, October 10th. P.M. Sent the boat to examine the reefs of coral near us. At 4 P.M. the boat returned on board; found the coral to be of many different colours blue, yellow, green, and in short in every colour we know of found some very large cockles and a few small shells found the tide to ebb to run due north-east not less than 2 1/2 knots but when it sallys over the flats and reefs it may be 5 knots. At half-past 4 P.M. weighed and sent the boat ahead to tow and got our sweeps on. At 45 minutes past 5 A.M. made sail in company with the Commodore stood on ahead with the Investigator’s boat ahead of us sounding. This morning we passed a great deal of suspicious water but saw no rocks or shoals dry.

Monday, October 11th. Stood on ahead of the Investigator broken water and reefs on both sides of us. At half-past 4 P.M. saw some very extensive reefs ahead, they seemed to train as far aft as our beam one each side of us. An appearance of an opening shows itself to the west-north-west as also one to the North, all else is broken water, reefs of coral and patches of coarse whitish sand or more probably coral. At half-past 5 A.M. weighed and made sail to the northward keeping ahead of the Investigator half a mile, and her boat ahead of us sounding. After running on this course about a mile and a half and being then close up to the tail of the coral reef north-east of us we suddenly found ourselves in 4 fathoms of water and plainly saw the bottom consisting of large rocks of coral. Immediately made the signal of Danger to the Commodore. We shoaled into 2 fathoms tacked and running south we found a very rapid tide with us and on passing between two reefs the current of tide I imagine could not be less than 6 knots. During this time the Investigator followed after us, but at 7 A.M. she made the signal to anchor. When she was a little brought up we had no bottom with 50 fathoms of line and on her breaking her sheer she at once broke the warp 65 fathoms from ye kedge, both of which we lost. I fancy it got round the top of a rock of coral as we have reason to suspect it foul ground. Immediately made all sail and stood towards the Investigator and the wind fortunately freshening we passed her and acquainted Captain Flinders with our loss. He told me to anchor near him. Accordingly at 9 A.M. we anchored but she quickly drove into the stream of tide, and there, to my surprise, the anchor held on. Answered signal Weigh, tried to do so but found it impossible held fast in a little time the tide slackened somewhat and Captain Flinders sent a boat and men to assist in getting up our anchor, began to heave up and were fortunate enough to get it with the loss of one arm, the cable not much damaged made sail after the Commodore. Received from H.M.S. Investigator 2 grapplings.

“Tuesday, October 12th. At daylight weighed in company with the Investigator and made sail to the northward. At half-past 7 A.M. We both came to...

“Wednesday, October 13th. At 1 P.M. weighed in company with the Commodore and made all sail; by half-past 2 P.M. reefs in sight from north to east-north-east..At daylight lay to for the Investigator who joined us by 7 A.M. On sounding we found the bottom altered from coarse sand, coral and broken shells to very fine sand and small shells...the wind favouring us the Commodore stood on. The appearance of the water this morning has been suspicious, however, I imagine it is caused by the sun’s reflection, and being calm, the Investigator’s boat has been ahead all morning. At half-past 10 A.M. the Commodore came to and we did the same with the two grapplings backing one another, and they held on.

“Thursday, October 14th. At half-past 5 P.M. reefs of coral in sight; body of them distant 2 1/2 or 3 miles. At daylight weighed in company with the Investigator and stood to southward; at half-past 7 A.M. reefs of coral in sight, three middling large rocks seen bearing south by east; we also at this time saw the land bearing west-south-west distant 14 or 15 leagues, made the signal of seeing it to the Investigator: by 8 A.M. perceived it was islands, three in number. At noon one island bore west by north distant 6 or 7 miles. This island appears very barren and rocky, and an island that, from its appearance took to be the Isle of Pines, next Watering Island south-south-east distant 16 or 17 miles.

“Friday, October 15t P.M. What I suppose to be the Peak of Pines near Watering Island bore south by east distant 22 or 24 miles: Barren Island west by south distant 6 or 7 miles: high hummocks of land west distant about 9 miles.

“Sunday, October 16th. At 4 P.M. a large island with a fire on it bore south-west by south distant 6 or 7 miles: a lowish island of rugged land south by east distant 7 or 8 miles: an island with two hills on it south-west by west distant 5 or 6 miles: a low island with several hillocks west-south-west distant 8 or 9 miles. At sundown passed within a quarter of a mile of a high perpendicular peak of one of Cumberland Isles, and at half-past 6 P.M. anchored in 20 fathoms with the small bower, bottom fine blue sand. Commodore anchored distant 1/4 of a mile. At 6 A.M. I went on shore in order to look for water as well as to see what the island produced, we cut down a couple of pines, fit one for a top-mast the other for a top-sail yard. On this island a number of pines are growing, some palm trees one of which Mr. Brown, the naturalist of the Investigator, thinks is not common. This island is not inhabited but seems occasionally to be visited. Two of the other islands are inhabited as on both of them were fires last night. On the north-west side is a beach of coarse coral and sand, on which a few dried shells were picked up, from this beach a considerable way out the bottom large coral rocks. A number of porpoises and sharks were seen about us this forenoon but none caught.

“Sunday, October 17th. At 6 A.M. weighed in company with the Investigator, made sail to northward; by noon the Cumberlands from south by south-west to west by north; and the Investigator east by south distant 4 miles. From the colour of the water and a long steady swell I judge we are nearly clear of the northern extremity of the reefs. I have now had several opportunities of seeing that from the want of our main and after keels we are so leewardly that the Investigator in 6 hours will get with ease 4 miles to windward of the brig.

Monday, October 18th. Stood on after the Investigator. At 6 P.M. she anchored within half a mile of us, on which I immediately came to in 34 fathoms with the small bower. Saw a boat lowered and in half an hour Lieutenant Fowler came on board and informed me that Captain Flinders meant to part company in the morning with the brig and therefore to get all ready for that purpose. had shown...increased my regret...at parting from our little consort.” Flinders.] At daylight hoisted out our long boat and sent her on board the Investigator. I received from Captain Flinders orders to proceed to Port Jackson with the Lady Nelson as fast as circumstances would allow. I also received a letter on service to His Excellency Governor King, as well as some private letters. Half-past 8 A.M. I took leave of Captain Flinders and returned on board, hove up. At this time the Investigator hoisted her colours and we did the same, she standing away to the westward and we to the southward. By 40 minutes past 10 A.M. we took our last view of H.M.S. Investigator, her top-gallant-sails just being in the vane of the horizon. At noon Cumberland Island in sight, a large one distant 10 or 11 miles. Discharged to H.M.S. Investigator, Mr. Lacy, Henry Willis and Thomas Shirly and received in lieu Jeremiah Wolsey and Nanbury [a native]. Latitude observed 20 degrees 178 minutes 16 seconds south.

“Tuesday, October 19th. By half-past 5 P.M. having run in between two very high islands covered with pines, came to in 10 fathoms water with the small bower, as the highest of the islands was in several places on fire. I lowered our boat and sent the First Mate in her to speak to the natives who I supposed must be on the island but when he returned, he told me few of their traces were seen. A part of one of their canoes was found and brought on board, from its appearance I deemed it not much superior in structure from those of the natives of Sydney. From where we lay [which is safe and secure anchorage with a blue clay bottom] the high peak of the nearest or eastern of those islands bore east-south-east, the rest of the Cumberlands lying in all directions of us. At daylight weighed and stood to the north-north-east, kept tacking occasionally to windward as it was my wish to get sight of the island we last watered at chiefly to ascertain whether the Timekeeper had kept its rate. At noon wore as she repeatedly missed stays from the want of her keels and a short confused sea ahead.

“Wednesday, October 20th. From noon till 2 P.M. kept trying to work to windward but she refusing stays I bore away for our former anchorage which having gained at 3 P.M. came to. Lowered down the boat and I went on shore unarmed supposing that should the island have any natives on it, they might be induced to show themselves. I was disappointed for I neither saw them or anything of consequence, one tree or plant excepted, which I had never seen before: as Nanbury, a native of Sydney on board, said he knew nothing of such a tree, as well as some people who had been a long time in New South Wales...I took a large specimen of it on board and hope it will keep.

“Thursday, October 21st. P.M. Sent a party on shore to examine the highest peak of the island to look for water and to get the bearings of the island. When they returned I was informed that the southernmost point of the main [which I presume is Cape Hillsborough] bore south-east 1/2 east. It was the mate’s opinion natives had been there a few days ago, as round their fires were plenty of turtle bones scattered about. Our anchorage last left bore south by west distant 2 miles.

“Friday, October 22nd. At 8 P.M. came to in our old anchorage. At 8 weighed, cleared the narrow passage between the islands we anchored under...we had chosen the worst place they afford: as on this side from the number of islands that lie all around as well as Cape Hillsborough and the island off it, we found the water quiet and smoot A.M. Made all sail for a large island to the south-east and by noon were abreast of its eastern extremity. This island has the most romantic and beautiful appearance of any I have ever beheld and from its north-west point to its north-east point is nothing but a continuation of safe and well-sheltered bays, the shores of which consist of white sand beaches intercepted here and there with patches of coral rocks: the edges of these in several places are lined with low mangroves, behind which tall pines rise, forming a beautiful contrast, these however rise not so high as to intercept our view of bold front-land which much resembles the hills of Norfolk when the grain on them is ripe, and over all these towering to a great height rise the inland hills covered with very high pines, on the whole I scarcely ever saw so fine a view. At noon the body of it bore north 1/2 east distant 3 miles, island of anchorage north-north-west distant 14 miles, an island at which I mean to anchor for the night [if we reach it] east by E. distant 6 or 7 miles. Latitude observed 20 degrees 48 minutes 44 seconds south.

“Saturday, October 23rd. By half-past 4 P.M. came to with our broken bower and it held her safe all night although the remaining arm did not take, a thing by the way rather odd as I had a short boom slung to i A.M. weighed and made all sail for Watering Island. By noon a remarkable peak on the mainland south-west, several other islands in sight in different directions. Since leaving Broad Sound until now the sea had been constantly covered in different places with an oily brown slime insomuch that it has often occasioned me to suspect shoal water.

“Sunday, October 24th. At sundown the body of Watering Island bore distant 10 or 11 miles, some other of the Northumberland islands bearing from north to south-west. We found the soundings to be from 18 to 10 fathoms, being inside some of the Offing Islands and within the westernmost edge of the extensive barrier reefs 20 miles. At 6 P.M. came to with our broken anchor. At midnight weighed and made for Watering Island with all sail. By 6 A.M. got within three miles of our late anchorage where we came to, body of Stony Peak of the Island bearing east-south-east. At 40 minutes past 9 A.M. again weighed...At noon got within one mile and a half of the anchorage.

“Monday, October 25th. By half past 1 P.M. having with the help of our sweeps gained nearly our old berth came to, I went on shore, found our well overflowing with good clear water. By noon our water was completed. A duck, pigeon and pheasant were shot on the hills to-day.

“Tuesday, October 26th. At daylight weighed and made sail. By 8 A.M. the rocky peak on the north end of Watering Island distant 10 or 11 miles. Stood on through the Offing Isles of Northumberland Islands.

Wednesday, October 27th. At 6 P.M. it being nearly calm came to in 17 fathoms with our broken anchor, Cape Townsend bearing south-east distant 3 or 5 miles, hill of Pines [its base] south-west distant 9 or 10 miles. A confused sea made me determined at slack water to weigh and run into better anchorage, at half-past 10 A.M. weighed and made sail up under Cape Townsend.

“Thursday, October 28th. At 1/4 past 1 P.M. came to with our broken anchor, veered away, but on her bringing up the cable parted although the strain was very trifling. The other bower was let go and it did not for some time bring her up. Perceiving all hopes of regaining our anchor or cable to be in vain, from our having so considerably shifted our berth as well as our having only one small boat, she almost in pieces, and it being absolutely necessary to get from here into a place of safety, I got two of the swivel guns cross-lashed, in short made as good an anchor of them as their nature would admit of, hoping that in light winds and smooth waters they would somewhat save our only remaining anchor. At 3 P.M. made sail further up into Shoal Water Bay, where we anchored with the swivels; they held her, there being no tide and but little wind. At 40 minutes past 7 P.M. let go the bower anchor and in the morning weighed it as well as the swivels and made sail up the Bay, where we anchored; lowered down the boat and sent the seine to haul, also the carpenter to look for a tree that might make a wooden anchor which with being loaded would answer in case of necessity.

“Friday, October 29th. Carpenter employed on the iron-bark anchor.

“Saturday, October 30th. At half-past 10 A.M. weighed and made sail towards the southern outlet of the bay. By the time we got within a mile and a half of it we had light baffling flaws all round; this outlet is narrow and several sunken rocks lie scattered about. We anchored as much out of the tide as possible.

Sunday, October 30th. 1 P.M. hove up and made sail into snug anchorage, came to in 1/4 5 fathoms...By 5 P.M. the wooden anchor being finished bent our small bower cable to it, hove up the bower and let go the wood anchor which however did not ride her, we therefore dropped the bower again and let the other remain in hopes that by getting the water lodged [as its weight would consequently increase] it might ride us in soft ground.

“Monday, November 1st. P.M. The party that were on shore returned, they informed me that one very large kangaroo was shot but escaped owing to the thickness of the bush, some small ones were also seen; a couple of pheasants and a pigeon were shot. A.M. sent two men on shore in order to try for a kangaroo.

“Tuesday, November 2nd. I would have gone to sea had the tide not been running strong into the Bay. Weighed our wooden anchor and loaded it with two swivels, this I would imagine would ride her in moderate weather.

“Wednesday, November 3rd. At 8 A.M. weighed and made all sail to windward. By 10 A.M. flood having made in we were obliged to come to with our wooden anchor which I had the satisfaction to see held on.

“Thursday, November 4th. Half-past 3 P.M. weighed and worked to windward the outlet of the bay. By 5 P.M. gained the narrows of the entrance. Found a very strong tide running out. By 6 P.M. cleared the outlet.

“Friday, November 5th. From 1 P.M. to 5 running through Keppel’s Islands south. At daylight land in sight from West to south by west; set studding-sails.

“Saturday, November 6th. From noon to 3 P.M. fresh winds and gloomy weather with dripping rain and some distant thunder. Saw Sandy Cape bearing east-south-east distant 10 or 11 miles could not see the land...came to with our wood anchor in 12 fathoms, Sandy Cape bearing south-east by east distant 10 miles...

“Sunday, November 7th. Until half-past 3 P.M. we stood along the northern edge of Breaksea Spit when, it being calm, came to in 14 fathoms water with our wood anchor, Sandy Cape bearing south-east by south distant 10 or 11 miles...

“Monday, November 8th. At half-past 9 A.M. Sandy Cape bore south distant 18 miles. At 10 A.M. saw Breaksea Spit breaking from south-west by south to West distant about 6 miles. At noon tacked to the northward, Sandy Cape bearing south by west distant 10 miles.

“Tuesday, November 9th. A high sea throughout. At noon no land in sight. Latitude observed 24 degrees 19 minutes 58 seconds south.

“Wednesday, November 10th. At Sundown Sandy Cape bore west 1/2 south distant 10 miles Sandy Point west distant 10 or 11 miles, spit breaking very high out to west by north, the southern extremes of land bearing south distant 14 miles, favourable.

“Thursday, November 11th. At noon fine weather and moderate winds with a confused sea. All sail set, the extremes of the land bearing from south-west to north-west distant each 7 or 8 leagues. Latitude observed 25 degrees 38 minutes 50 seconds south.

“Friday, November 12th. At sundown Double Island Point west 1/2 south distant 6 or 7 leagues; at 10 P.M. tacked to the southward...At noon the Glass Houses on Glass House Bay south-west by south distant 6 or 7 leagues.

“Saturday, November 13th. At daylight no land in sight, at 8 A.M. saw land bearing south-west distant 6 or 7 leagues.

“Sunday, November 14th. At 10 A.M. after a deal of rain a light air sprung up at north. Observed Latitude Dead Reckoning 26 degrees 38 minutes 00 seconds south.

Monday, November 15th. At 8 A.M. saw some high land bearing west-south-west distant 8 leagues. Until noon we had light squalls and very hard rain. No observation of Latitude 27 degrees 35 minutes 00 seconds: I conclude myself to be one degree more to South than the D.R. gives and not so far East by about 14 or 15 miles.

“Tuesday, November 16th. At 4 A.M. tacked to southward, set top-gallant-sails and stay-sails; no land in sight. Latitude observed 29 degrees 07 minutes 28 seconds south.

“Wednesday, November 17th. At 4 P.M. tacked to south-west.

“Thursday, November 18th. At noon fresh clear wind at north-north-west and a high confused sea on, set all sail we could.

“Friday, November 19th. Saw land bearing west by south distant 4 or 5 leagues this I take to be Smoaky Cape, if it is, a strong westerly current must have run, for by account when I made the land our latitude was 30 degrees 46 minutes 39 seconds south 3 miles to the westward of Smoaky Cape but our longitude deducted from yesterday’s time-keeper 153 degrees 50 minutes 00 seconds east 40 miles to the eastward of it which makes the current to have set us west 28 miles. At noon Smoaky Cape bore west 1/2 south distant 6 leagues.

“Saturday, November 20th. At noon what I supposed to be the Brothers bore west-south-west distant 6 or 7 leagues.

“Sunday, November 21st. Fresh breezes and cloudy, latter part variable wind and thick weather. No land in sight.

“Monday, November 22nd. At 5 A.M. the north head of Port Jackson...bore south-west distant 4 leagues. At 8 A.M. the north head bore West distant 1 league. At 40 minutes past 10 A.M. came to with the bower in Sydney Cove abreast of the Governor’s wharf, found lying here H.M.S. Buffalo which was returned.

“Tuesday, November 23rd. Winds all round the compass with much thunder and lightning. Employed preparing for sea.”

[Facsimile signature Jno Murray]

Commander.