March 18th a cold, disagreeable storm
commenced, lasting till the 21st; it commenced with
a drizzling rain, which finally, however, turned into
a stiff snow storm, and on the morning of the 21st
it cleared off, the snow lying on the ground six inches
deep. All were now looking forward to the time
when we should pull up and leave for other parts.
March 23d, the snow had disappeared,
much to our satisfaction. This day was spent
in issuing clothing to the regiment. They were
now fully prepared for the journey before them.
The Twelfth at this time was the largest regiment
in the entire corps, and the finest in its general
appearance, as regards the men, their clothing, arms,
equipments, &c.
Wednesday, 25th, we received marching orders.
Thursday, 26th, at seven, P.M., we
struck our tents and remained in the streets, waiting
for orders to fall in. Meanwhile, fires were kindled,
and a general bonfire ensued; sticks, poles, boxes,
and every thing that would burn was scraped up and
added to the flames. It being a cold, chilly
night, these fires proved very cheering and comfortable.
At eleven in the evening we were called upon to fall
in. This was quickly done; the regiment was formed,
and we immediately proceeded to the landing, and went
aboard the steamer Long Island, and were soon on our
way, bidding farewell to Newport News, where we had
spent many pleasant hours, much to our own comfort
individually, and with profit to the regiment.
The morning of the 26th we were steaming up the Chesapeake,
en route for Baltimore.
Left the Chesapeake at six, P.M.,
entered the Petapsco, and at seven were brought alongside
the wharf, where we passed the night.
At six o’clock on the morning
of the 27th we were ordered to sling knapsacks.
This done we filed off the boat, the regiment was formed,
and marching through the streets of the city, we stacked
our arms opposite the depot, and were to go aboard
the cars as soon as the necessary arrangements could
be made. The boys were allowed to leave the ranks
and go where they chose. I went down street,
and found there was plenty of liquor to be had, and
also that it was in great demand; many of the
boys were getting their canteens filled, &c.
The people of Baltimore were very
friendly to us. As we marched through the streets
we met with cordial greetings; handkerchiefs were waved,
flags were displayed, &c. This was reciprocated
by the regiment, who answered back in deafening cheers.
We had our hands full after starting
from Baltimore, in consequence of the boys indulging
too freely in “whiskey libations.”
They had seen no liquor for some time, and seemed
determined to make the most of this. At twelve
we commenced entering the cars, and at one P.M. the
regiment were all aboard. Some of the men were
picked up and brought on in a dilapidated condition,
having been engaged in turning somersaults,
evidently having had help in this game, judging from
the countenances of some of them, which had materially
changed, showing marks where the fist had been too
closely applied for the good of the recipient, resulting
in crawls upon all four, and other demonstrations
of a like character. With three or four exceptions,
all of our company came aboard without help, though
I am sorry to say many of them were full of fight,
and commenced operations soon after entering the cars.
It fell upon me to stand at one end of the car, with
orders to allow no one to go out, under any pretence,
as in the present condition of the men the result no
doubt would have been disastrous. Soon the uproar
commenced, which continued until darkness put a stop
to it. There would be an occasional lull in the
tempest, as parties became exhausted.
Towards night, those who were brought
aboard insensible, and who were indebted to a few
of us for their preservation as the chances
were that they would have been stamped to pieces if
we had not exerted ourselves to save them came
to and sailed in for their share. Such
an uproar I never heard among human beings, and it
required our utmost exertions to keep them from annihilating
one another. Darkness came upon us at last, the
uproar partly ceased, and comparative quiet reigned
in this menagerie.
The train was started at two, P.M.,
and proceeded slowly throughout the afternoon.
Late in the evening we stopped at Little York, Penn.,
where hot coffee and bread were served to such of
the regiment as felt disposed to partake. We
were now fairly on our way, en route for the
West, via Harrisburg. After leaving Little York
we proceeded rapidly, and the next morning, at eight
o’clock, stopped at Lewistown, Penn., sixty
miles to the west of Harrisburg.
March 28th, at half-past one, P.M.,
stopped at Altoona, where hot coffee and white bread
were served to us. At quarter-past two commenced
the ascent of the Alleghany Mountains. Our train
consisted of thirty cars, drawn by a powerful locomotive.
Upon commencing the ascent of the mountain, two more
were attached, one to the rear of the train, and one
ahead. The road is very crooked, and the train,
as it moved slowly, winding its way along the numerous
curves, like some huge serpent, presented to the eye
of the beholder a novel and beautiful spectacle.
In many places we could look down into ravines several
hundred feet in depth, close beside the track, the
sides of which were nearly perpendicular; and upon
the other hand the mountains would rise as high above
us. All along the road the mountains were covered
with a heavy growth of timber. Millions of logs,
of all sizes, lay rotting upon the ground, seeming
ready to tumble upon us at any moment. This crossing
the Alleghanies presented features of a kind new to
Rhode Islanders, and was enjoyed by all who could
appreciate the beauties of nature.
At half-past two, P.M., we passed
through the tunnel at the summit and commenced our
descent. Passed Johnstown at six, and at twelve
entered Pittsburg. At half-past twelve, the morning
of the 29th, the regiment left the cars and marched
to the City Hall, the general rendezvous for supperless
soldiers. We here found supper awaiting us, to
which we quickly introduced ourselves. Had white
bread and butter, crackers, pickles, apples and hot
coffee served to us. We were also treated to
music from one of the city bands. Stopped an hour
in the hall, when the colonel, making a speech, thanking
the Pittsburgians for their hospitality, &c., we left,
highly pleased with our entertainment. From the
hall we marched a short distance and took lodgings
under the shelter of a large shed adjoining the depot,
where some of us were so fortunate as to get a short
nap.
At six, A.M., rose from my downy bed,
visited a saloon close by, had a good wash, and through
the kindness of a friend, a good breakfast of potatoes,
hot biscuit, beefsteak, coffee, &c. At half-past
nine, A.M., the regiment entered the cars, and at
ten the train started, crossing the Alleghany River,
en route for Cincinnati, via Steubenville and
Columbus. I improved the little time I was in
Pittsburg in looking about me. I was somewhat
surprised at the general appearance of the city.
I had often heard it spoken of as a dirty place.
We often hear it called the city of “Eternal
Smoke.” This proceeds from the numerous
forges, furnaces, and so on, which abound in the city,
its principal business being the working of iron,
for which it is celebrated. In connection with
its business I had pictured in imagination a collection
of low, heavy buildings and dilapidated houses, all
of the color of smoke. Instead of this, I found
a place of great beauty and interest. Many of
the buildings in the business portion of the city were
four and five stories high, brick and stone being
the material used. All of the buildings were
neat in appearance, and many of them models of taste
and beauty in their architecture. I saw very
fine looking churches in this place. Owing to
our short stay here, I cannot enter into a description,
but judging from what I saw, should think it a place
of great wealth, uncommon beauty and interest.
We passed through Steubenville, Ohio, at two, P.M.
At the village of Means, a short distance beyond, halted
for coffee. Halted again at the village of Newcomerstown,
at seven, P.M., at the village of Cheshocton, at nine,
and at the city of Newark at twelve. All along
through these villages we were warmly welcomed by the
inhabitants. The ladies ran to meet us as we came
to a halt. Many of them brought bread, pies and
apples to the soldiers. Some of the boys were
the recipients of little tokens of affection, in the
shape of kisses. Relative to the kisses, “Freely
as you receive, freely give,” was the rule on
the part of the boys. While passing through these
villages, for my share, I received an apple and a slice
of white bread and sauce.
Monday, 30th, at two in the morning,
the train came to a halt again, and upon making inquiry,
I learned we had arrived at Columbus, the capital
of the State. Here we found refreshments for the
whole regiment awaiting us. White bread was brought
into the cars and given to those who wished it.
Before the coffee could be brought to us, our colonel,
thinking the regiment needed rest more than coffee
and bread, (many of them being asleep at the time,)
ordered the train to pass on. Not having a good
chance to sleep myself, I being ready to eat and drink
all I could get, I secured four loaves of the bread,
and finding the coffee was in the depot, I hastened
from the cars and was in time to fill my canteen.
At seven, A.M., we passed through
Zenia, where the train stopped long enough for us
to wash up and look about us. Starting from here,
at ten, A.M., we made a halt in Miami Valley, at a
little village, where we remained until noon.
At the village of Morrow we stopped four hours.
This delay was owing to a train ahead of us smashing
up, obliging us to wait till the track could be cleared.
At five, P.M., we started again, and at seven entered
the city of Cincinnati. After a delay of an hour
we alighted from the cars and soon after proceeded
to the Fifth Street Market, where supper was provided
us. Our refreshments were the same as those we
had at Pittsburg minus the music. At nine, P.M.,
we retired from the hall, after acknowledging our
thanks by three deafening cheers, and marched immediately
to the boat, which we found awaiting us, and at ten,
P.M., were across the Ohio and standing on Kentucky
soil. We landed in Covington, a place opposite
Cincinnati. At eleven, we turned in for the night,
occupying the floor of an old, dilapidated shed, near
the depot.
Tuesday, 31st, our colonel endeavored
to get us a breakfast for the regiment at this place,
but was unsuccessful. Our haversacks furnished
us a breakfast at this place. We were delayed
here until one, P.M., when we again took the cars
and were soon hurrying on, en route for Lexington.
Passed through the town of Belmont at four, and arrived
at Lexington at nine in the evening. Here we
had arrived, we learned, at the end of our journey.
We took up our quarters for the night in the cars
and about the depot.
Wednesday, April 1st, turned out at
an early hour, kindled fires, made coffee and took
our breakfast. The regiment was not called upon
to fall in until half-past eight, A.M. Meanwhile
I took the opportunity to visit the grave and monument
of Henry Clay, which are in the cemetery a short distance
from the depot. The monument is very large, and
upon the top of the tall shaft stands a statue of
the departed statesman. His grave is about forty
rods from the monument. It was pointed out to
me by one familiar with the spot. It is ten feet
north of the monument erected by him to the memory
of his mother, Mrs. Elizabeth Clay, formerly Watkins.
There are no stones to mark the spot where he lies,
as his remains will undoubtedly soon be removed to
the vault prepared for them, at the base of the monument.
Finding some coffee beans, as they call them here,
upon the grave, and which grew upon a tree overshading
it, I secured them for a memento. I also visited
the place allowed for the burial of soldiers who die
in the hospitals here. The space allotted is
upon an eminence, and the manner of burying is novel
and interesting.
The graves were arranged in circles,
the first circle enclosing a space twenty feet in
diameter, with the foot of the grave towards the space,
and the head outwards. The second circle outside
of this, and so on. There were several circles
already finished. The space is reserved for the
erection of a monument at some future time. There
are many fine specimens of sculpture in this cemetery,
and monuments in great profusion. At half-past
eight we were called upon to fall in, and immediately
marched to our encampment. This was situated upon
the Fair Grounds, three-quarters of a mile from the
city. It was a beautiful situation, amid a grove
of black walnuts and maples, commanding a fine view
of the surrounding country, which includes many interesting
localities. The Ashland Estate, well known as
the residence of Henry Clay, is but a mile from our
camp. This estate is very large, comprising originally
one thousand acres.
Thursday, April 2d, I started on a
visit to this place. Just before reaching the
house we came upon two children, a boy and a girl,
who were playing in a grove adjoining. They were
about ten or twelve years of age. Upon coming
up to them to make some inquiry, I noticed in the
features of each a striking resemblance of the man
whose memory we hold in reverence. Upon making
inquiry, I learned they were grand children of Henry
Clay. Their father, James Clay, was absent, holding
a high position in the rebel army; his family occupying
the homestead. It was a very warm, pleasant day,
and the whole family, which consisted of the mother
and two other younger children, were busying themselves
out-doors, and looking at the men who were employed
at the time of our visit, in the garden. The
wife of James Clay is a woman apparently about thirty
years of age, in height rather below the average; has
black eyes and hair, is of a dark complexion, and
without doubt in her younger days was considered handsome.
Her countenance bears the traces of grief, and in
the absence of her husband, she is no doubt seeing
trouble. I had a talk with one of the men respecting
the family. He showed me the house he lived in,
which is situated on the estate, and was rented to
him by Mrs. Clay the year before. He said he
was a Union man, and thought it best she should understand
it so, before he occupied the premises. He therefore
told her. All she told him was that she rented
the house for the money. Whether her husband’s
course is approved of by her or not, he could not
ascertain, as she keeps her own counsels. I was
told the whole family since the death of the honored
parent, which occurred some eight years ago, have
dressed in black. Mrs. Clay was dressed in a full
suit of deep mourning. In connection with her
husband’s position at the present time, I thought
the dress very appropriate.
We were allowed the privilege of going
about the premises. I learned that the house
occupied by the elder Clay had, since his decease,
been removed, giving place to one more modern in its
style of architecture. There has been no alteration
made in the outbuildings, of which there are quite
a number. The house is a very fine building, built
of brick, with free-stone cornices, window caps, &c.
The lawn is very spacious; around the outer edge is
a carriage road, and upon either side of this is a
row of trees. The principal kinds are hemlock,
firs and black walnuts, most of them of large size.
Scattered about the lawn in great profusion are others
of different kinds. Alongside the carriage road
were a few neglected flower beds. Finding some
of them in bloom, I culled one and sent it home as
a memento of my visit to this celebrated estate.
After a short stay here, we returned
to camp. On our way back we passed the residence
of John Clay, and took the opportunity of visiting
his stables, and seeing the horses owned by him, he
being reputed the owner of some of the finest horses
in the State. We found the stables easy of access,
several negroes being in charge, who were willing to
show us about the premises. This Clay is quite
a sporting character; has a race course of his own,
and makes a business of rearing and racing horses.
Those we saw were the finest he had. One of them,
a bright bay mare, named Edgar, is said to have run
her mile in one minute forty-six seconds. Those
I saw were all trained to running. On our way
from the stables we passed the house. Being hungry,
I inquired of a negro if he could find us something
to eat. He took us up to the house and asked the
inmates of the kitchen, which consisted of three negroes,
one man and two women, if they could do any thing
for us. The man said that Mr. Clay was sick,
and had refused several before us. Finding we
would accept of a johnny-cake which was cooking upon
the stove, he took it off and gave it to us.
The widow of Henry Clay resides at this place with
her son. She is now in her eighty-third year,
is very feeble, and will soon follow her lamented
husband to the tomb. From here, returning to camp,
we stopped to see a herd of mules that had just been
turned loose, and who were capering and cutting around
at a break-neck rate. Occasionally one would
stop and let fly a pair of heels, making all crack
again. I could not see as there was any damage
done, however. Oftentimes two or three, while
upon the full run, would go down upon the ground, and
coming up again, run as fast in another direction.
Such thumps as they gave one another would kill any
thing but a mule. At one, P.M., I reached camp,
much pleased with my journey.
Sunday, April 5th, I attended church
in the city, in company with two or three hundred
of the regiment. Monday, 6th, signed pay-roll,
and the next day, the 7th, were paid off, receiving
our pay up to the 1st of March. We had been in
camp here a week, and were getting pretty well established.
Our quartermaster, J. L. Clark, was left at Newport
News to settle up affairs there, and then was to follow
us with the major part of the luggage. At this
time, April 7th, he had not reached us. Through
some one’s fault, we were on short allowance
while at this place, and as we begun to live again,
received marching orders.
Wednesday, the 8th, broke camp, and
started on our march at eight, A.M., accompanied by
the rest of the brigade. It was a warm, pleasant
morning. We passed through the city, and took
the road in the direction of Winchester, and after
a very severe march of twenty-two miles, we reached
our encampment, which was situated two miles south
of this village, at half-past seven in the evening.
This was a hard day’s march for the first brigade.
The road over which we passed, ran in a south-easterly
direction from Lexington, in a straight line.
Underneath the surface of the ground are ledges, which
abound in this part of the country, of slate and sandstone.
These are easily worked, and are the material used
in making roads. The stone is broken in small
pieces, which in course of time become fine, making
an excellent thoroughfare. The road throughout
its whole length was made after this manner. Owing
to the material used in making and repairing, (every
little way having to walk over stones lately carried
on,) it was very hard for the feet. I have not
been able to learn that there was any necessity of
our making this two days’ march in one, except
perhaps to gratify the caprice of Col. Griffin
of the Ninth New Hampshire, who commanded the brigade
in the absence of Gen. Naglee. But a small portion
of the brigade managed to reach camp the night of
the 8th. Many of the men carried heavy knapsacks,
and were obliged to fall out. After marching a
few miles, I judged from the motion of things that
they were intending to make the march in one day.
I therefore fell out, took off my boots, and put on
a pair of “whangs,” so as to march as
easy as possible.
Just before taking my place in the
ranks again, I came across my chum, who had dropped
out to rest, his feet already blistered. As it
would be easier to march in the rear of the regiment,
thereby avoiding the dust, (it being a very dusty
road withal,) and rest at his leisure, he had made
up his mind to do so. Our things being together,
I kept him company. After marching some sixteen
miles this way, my companion, who was about used up,
halted until the baggage wagons came up with us, and
contrived to get his knapsack into one of them, and
soon after found a place for mine. This made
it easier for us. The wagons belonged to the
brigade, and I was fortunate in getting my knapsack
on one containing baggage of the Twelfth Regiment.
My companion, after our arrival in the village, took
his off and slung it on his back again. Finding
the wagon containing mine was to accompany our regiment,
I concluded to let it remain there. As soon as
the wagon started, I seized hold of it, and by that
means contrived to keep up, the team some of the way
going upon the trot. We finally reached camp.
I was about five minutes getting my knapsack off the
wagon, my blankets out of it, and in turning in.
My chum turned in for the night under a fence, about
quarter of a mile in the rear, being pretty much “played
out.”
Kentucky is the finest country I have
seen yet. It had the same appearance all the
way from Lexington to Winchester. The soil to
all appearance is excellent, and easily cultivated.
The surface of the ground undulates in hill and dale,
just enough to give relief and beauty to the scenery.
No stones upon the surface to add to the labor of its
cultivation. There are no underbrush growing in
the woods here. This adds greatly to the beauty
of this country, every forest having the appearance
of the most beautiful groves, underneath which grass
grows in abundance. This gives Kentucky the advantage
over any State thus far, that I have seen; and the
first in rank, as a cattle producing country, as every
forest affords excellent pasturage for the herds of
cattle, mules, &c., which abound in this State.
The fields are laid out large, are well fenced, and
a large part under cultivation. The houses are
scattering, being from half a mile to a mile apart,
suggesting to a New Englander the idea of others between,
in the event of the war coming to an end, together
with the institution of slavery. God forbid that
this fair land should longer be blighted by this curse.
“Then conquer we must,
when our cause it is just,
Let this be our motto:
‘In God is our trust.’
And the star spangled banner,
in triumph shall wave,
O’er the land of the
free, and the home of the brave.”