On the evening of the day on which
the excursion to Vesuvius was made, Rollo came into
Mrs. Gray’s room, wearing a somewhat disturbed
countenance. He told Mrs. Gray that he had got
some bad news for her.
“Ah,” said Mrs. Gray,
“I’m sorry to hear that. What is the
bad news?”
“Philippe is engaged for to-morrow,”
said Rollo, “and so he cannot go with us to
Pompeii.”
“O, how sorry I am!” said Josie.
“What shall we do?”
“How is he engaged?” asked Mrs. Gray.
“He is going with a party to Baiae.”
“Where is Baiae?” asked Josie. “Is
it any where near Pompeii?”
“No,” said Rollo; “it
is exactly in the opposite direction. It is on
the sea coast to the west, and Pompeii is on the sea
coast to the east.”
“What is there to be seen at Baiae?” asked
Mrs. Gray.
“Nothing but old ruins,”
said Rollo, contemptuously. “I don’t
see why people should want to go so far, and take
away our guide, just to see old ruins. Besides,
there are plenty of old ruins at Pompeii.
“But, Mrs. Gray,” continued
Rollo, “I don’t think we need any guide
at all to go to Pompeii. We can go by ourselves.”
“Do you think so?” said Mrs. Gray.
“Why, you see I can engage a
carriage to take us there myself,” said Rollo.
“I shall say ‘Pompeii!’ to the coachman,
and point that way. And when we get to Pompeii,
we shall find uncle George there, and then we shall
get along well enough.”
“True,” said Mrs. Gray.
“But then,” she added, after thinking a
moment, “perhaps we might miss Mr. George, after
all. I don’t know how large a place it
is. If it is a large place, we might miss him
in some of the streets.”
Here Rosie opened a guide book which
lay upon the table, and turned to a map of Pompeii
which she recollected to have seen there. Her
hope was to find that there were not many streets,
and thus to show that there would not be much danger
of missing Mr. George. She found, however, that
the plan of the town looked quite complicated.
There was a long street, called the Street of the
Tombs, leading into it; and then within the walls
there were a great many other streets, crossing each
other, and running in all directions. So she
shut the book, and did not say a word, thinking that
the sight of the plan would impede, rather than promote,
the acceptance of Rollo’s proposal.
“I don’t think there are
a great many streets,” said Rollo. “There
were none at all at Herculaneum.”
“Ah, but Herculaneum is a very
different thing,” said Mrs. Gray. “Herculaneum
was buried up very deep with solid lava, and only a
very small portion of it has been explored, and that
you go down into as you would into a cellar or a mine.
Pompeii was but just covered, and that only with sand
and ashes; and the sand and ashes have all been dug
out and carted off from a large part of the city,
so as to bring the whole out in the open day.”
“Then it will be a great deal
pleasanter place to visit,” said Rosie.
“Yes,” said Mrs. Gray;
“and I don’t think that there will be much
danger in our going by ourselves. If we don’t
find Mr. George, we can walk about a while, and then
come back in the carriage again.”
“We might go by the railroad
if we chose,” said Rollo. “There is
a railroad that runs along the coast, and passes very
near Pompeii.”
“I think we had better take
a carriage,” said Mrs. Gray, “because a
carriage will take us and leave us wherever we wish.
There will be more changes if we go by the railroad,
and we should need to speak more.”
It was finally agreed that the party
should go, and Rollo and Josie were to have a carriage
ready at nine o’clock the next morning.
They were all to breakfast at eight o’clock.
Now it happens there is no difficulty
in getting a carriage at Naples. The streets
are full of them. They are very pretty carriages
too, as they are seen standing in pleasant weather,
with the tops turned back, showing the soft cushions
on the seats that look so inviting. The coachmen
who drive these carriages are very eager to get customers.
They watch at the doors of the hotels, and every where,
indeed, along the streets, and whenever they see a
lady and gentleman coming, they drive forward to meet
them, and call out to offer them the carriage; and
sometimes they go along for some distance by the side
of the strangers, trying to induce them to get in.
Some of these carriages have two horses,
and contain a front and a back seat. Others have
only one horse, and only a back seat; but they all
look very nice and tidy, and the price to be paid for
them is quite low.
The party all breakfasted together
the next morning, and they went down into the dining
room for their breakfast, instead of taking it in Mrs.
Gray’s room. They did this at the request
of the boys, who said it was more amusing to go into
the public room and see the different parties that
came in for early breakfasts, and hear them talk, in
various languages, of the different excursions that
they are going to make that day.
At about a quarter before nine, Rollo
and Josie went out to look for a carriage. Rollo
stopped at the office of the hotel in going out, and
inquired of the secretary how much ought to be paid
for a carriage with two horses to go to Pompeii.
The secretary told him three dollars.
He and Josie then went out into the
street. There was a long row of carriages, some
with two horses and some with one, standing in the
middle of the street opposite to the hotel. The
coachmen of all these carriages, as soon as they saw
the boys come out, began immediately to call out to
them, and crack their whips, and make other such demonstrations
to attract their attention.
“Now,” said Rollo to Josie,
“we must walk along carelessly, and not appear
to look at the carriages as if we wanted one; for if
we do, they will come driving towards us in a body.
We will walk along quietly till we come to a nice
carriage and a first rate pair of horses, and then
we’ll go right up to the coachman and engage
him.”
This the boys did. They sauntered
along with a careless air, concealing the desire they
had to engage a carriage, until at last they came to
one which Rollo thought would do. The instant
the boys stopped before this carriage, the coachman
jumped down from his box, and began to open the carriage
door for them, and at the same time all the other coachmen
in the line began cracking their whips, and calling
out to the boys again to come and take their carriages.
Rollo paid no attention to them, but addressed the
coachman of the carriage which he had selected, and
said in French, “To Pompeii.”
“Si, signore, si, signore,”
said the coachman, which Rollo knew very well meant
“Yes, sir, yes, sir.” At the same
time the coachman made eager gestures for the boys
to get in.
But Rollo would not get in, but waited
to make his bargain about the price.
“Quanto?” said
he. Quanto is the Italian word for how much.
In saying Quanto, Rollo held up the fingers
of his right hand, to denote to the coachman that
he was to show him by his fingers how many piastres.
The coachman said four, speaking in
Italian, and at the same time held up four fingers.
“No,” said Rollo, “three.”
And Rollo held up three fingers.
The coachman seemed to hesitate a
moment; but when he saw that the boys were ready to
go away and apply for another carriage unless he would
take them for the regular and proper price, he said,
“Si, signore,” again, and once
more motioned for the boys to get in. So they
got in, and the coachman drove to the hotel door.
Mrs. Gray and Rosie were all ready,
and when they came to see the carriage which the boys
had chosen for them, they were very much pleased with
it.
“I don’t see but that
you can manage the business, Rollo,” said Mrs.
Gray, “as well as any courier or valet de place
that we could have.”
“How could you make him understand
what you wanted, without speaking Italian?”
asked Rosie.
“I did it partly by signs,” said Rollo.
The road to Pompeii, for the first
few miles, was the same with the one to Vesuvius,
which they had taken the day before. It led first
through the busiest part of Naples, along by the docks
and the shipping, and then through the series of towns
and villages which line the shore of the bay, at the
foot of the slopes of Vesuvius. After passing
in this manner through one continued street for five
or six miles, the road came out more into the open
country, where fine views were had of the mountain
on one side, and of the bay on the other. The
mountain sides were generally extremely fertile, being
covered with vineyards and groves, though here and
there were to be seen the streams of lava which had
come down within a few hundred years, and which had
not yet become disintegrated and converted into soil.
These streams of lava looked like torrents of brown
water suddenly turned into stone, as they came streaming
down the mountain side.
In one place, one of these streams
of lava passed under a town. That is to say,
such was the appearance. The fact was, really,
that the lava had destroyed the part of the town that
came in its way, and the people had built up their
houses again on the top of it. The lava was cut
down a little in making the road, so that you could
see at the road side a portion of the stream, with
the houses upon it.
After riding on in this way two or
three hours, the carriage stopped at a very pleasant
place, among vineyards and mulberry groves, at the
entrance of a pretty lane, which led to the gates of
Pompeii.
“Now,” said Rosie, “our
difficulties are going to begin. I don’t
see how we are going to know where to look for Mr.
George.”
“We will see,” said Mrs. Gray.
The coachman opened the door, and
all the party got out. Just then they saw at
a short distance before them, where there was a sort
of gate, several men in a species of uniform, which
denoted that they were the persons appointed by the
government to take charge of the place, and to show
it to visitors. One of these men, as soon as he
saw the party, seemed to look very much pleased, and
he advanced to meet them with a smiling face.
At the same time he said something to a boy who was
near by, and the boy ran off into the town. The
young man in uniform, when he came near to Mrs. Gray,
said something which at first she could not understand,
but which she soon perceived was an attempt to pronounce
the words, Il Signore Holiday.
“Ah! he has seen Mr. George,”
said Mrs. Gray. “Mr. George has been here,
and has told him to watch for us.”
This supposition on the part of Mrs.
Gray was correct. Mr. George had come early with
the students to Pompeii, in order to be ready there
to receive Mrs. Gray and her party, and he had stationed
this man at the gate to watch for them, with directions
to send the boy in for him at an appointed place,
as soon as they should arrive. The boy soon found
Mr. George, and he came immediately back to the gate.
Of course the whole party were very much pleased to
see him.
“And yet,” said Mrs. Gray,
“Rollo has managed so well that I should not
have felt any anxiety if we had continued under his
sole charge all day.”
The party now commenced their exploration
of Pompeii. They found it, as they had expected,
all open to the day. A great many of the streets,
with all the houses bordering them, had been cleared,
and all the sand and gravel under which they had been
buried had been carted away. Immense heaps of
this rubbish were lying outside the entrance, and the
party had passed them in the carriage on their approach
to the town. They had been lying there so long,
however, that they were covered with grass and small
trees, and they looked like great railroad embankments.
Indeed, the appearance which Pompeii
presents now is that of a large open village of ruined
and roofless one-storied houses. Many of the
houses were originally two stories high, it is true;
but the upper stories have been destroyed or shaken
down, and in general it is the lower story only that
now remains.
The structure of the houses, in respect
to plan and general arrangement, is very different
from that of the dwellings built in our towns at the
present day. The chief reasons for the difference
arise from the absence of windows and chimneys in
the houses of the ancients, and of course the leaving
out of windows and chimneys in a house makes it necessary
to change every thing.
The inhabitants of Pompeii had no
chimneys, because the climate there is so mild that
they seldom needed a fire; and when they did need one,
it was easier to make a small one in an open vessel,
and let it stand in the middle of the room, or wherever
it was required, than to make a chimney and a fireplace.
The open pan in which the fires were made in those
days stood on legs, and could be moved about any where.
The fire was made of small twigs cut from the trees.
The people would let the pan stand in the open air
until the twigs were burnt to coal, and then they
would carry the pan, with the embers still glowing,
into the room which they wished to warm, and place
it wherever it was required.
The same contrivance is used at the
present day in Naples, and in all the towns of that
region. In going along the streets in a cool evening
or morning, you will often see one of these brass pans
before a door, with a little fire blazing in it, and
children or other persons before it, warming their
hands. Afterwards, if you watch, you will see
that the people take it into the house.
The ancient inhabitants of Pompeii
depended entirely on arrangements like these for warming
their rooms. There is not a chimney to be found
in the whole town.
In respect to windows, the reason
why they did not have them was because they had no
glass to put into them. They could not make glass
in those days well enough and easily enough to use
it for windows. Of course they had openings in
their houses to admit the air and the light, and these
openings might perhaps be called windows. But
in order to prevent the wind and rain from coming
in, it was necessary to have them placed in sheltered
situations, as, for example, under pórticos and
piazzas. The custom therefore arose of having
a great many pórticos in the houses, with rooms
opening from them; and in order that they might not
be too much exposed, they were generally made so as
to have the open side of them inwards, towards the
centre of the house, where a small, square place was
left, without a roof over it, to admit the light and
air.
Of course the rain would come in through
this open space, and the floor of it was generally
formed into a square marble basin, to receive the
water. This was called the impluvium.
Sometimes there was a fountain in the centre of the
impluvium, and all around it were the pórticos,
within and under which were the doors opening into
the different rooms.
The guide, who conducted Mr. George
and his party, led them into several of these houses,
and every one was much interested in examining the
arrangement of the rooms, and in imagining how the
people looked in going in and out, and in living in
them. The bed rooms were extremely small.
The walls of some of them were beautifully painted,
but the rooms themselves were often not much bigger
than a state room in a steamship. The bedstead
was a sort of berth, formed upon a marble shelf built
across from wall to wall.
In some of the houses there were more
rooms than could be arranged around one court; and
in such cases there were two, and sometimes three
courts. In one case, the third court was a garden,
with a beautiful portico formed of ornamental columns
all around it. Beneath this portico the ladies
of the house, in rainy weather, could walk at their
ease, and see the flowers growing in the garden, just
as well as if the weather were fair.
Under this portico, all around, was
a subterranean chamber, which seemed to be used as
a sort of cellar. And yet it was very neatly finished,
and the walls of it were ornamented in such a way
as to lead people to suppose that it might have been
used as a cool walk in warm weather. This passage
way was first discovered by means of the steps leading
down to it. It was almost full of earth, which
earth consisted of volcanic sand and ashes, which
had flowed into it in the form of mud.
On one side of this subterranean passage
way, near the entrance, there were a number of skeletons
found. These skeletons were in a standing position
against the wall, where the persons had been stopped
and buried up by the mud as it flowed in. The
marks left by the bodies against the wall remain to
this day, and Rollo and all the party saw them.
One of the skeletons was that of a
female, and there were a great many rings on the fingers
of the hands, and bracelets, necklaces, and other
ornaments on the other bones. From this circumstance
it is supposed that this person was the wife of the
owner of the house, and that in trying to save herself
and her jewelry upon her, she had fled with the servants
to this cellar, and there had been overwhelmed.
There were very few skeletons found
in the houses of Pompeii; from which circumstance
it is supposed that the inhabitants generally had time
to escape. There was, however, one remarkable
case. It was that of a sentinel in his sentry
box, at the gate of the city. He would not leave
his post, as it would seem, and so perished at the
station where he had been placed. His head, with
the helmet still upon it, was carried to the museum
at Naples, where it is now seen by all the world, and
every one who sees it utters some expression of praise
for the courage and fidelity which the poor fellow
displayed in fulfilling his trust.
The streets of the town were narrow,
but they were paved substantially with large and solid
stones, flat at the top. Along these streets there
were a great many very curious shops, such as barbers’
shops, painters’ shops, wine shops, and the
like. The wine shops were furnished with deep
jars set in a sort of stone counter. The jars
were open-mouthed, and the men who kept the shops
were accustomed apparently to dip the wine out of
them, in selling to their customers.
After passing through a number of
these streets, the party came at length to a great
public square called the Forum. This square
was surrounded with the ruins of temples, and other
great public edifices. The columns and pórticos
which bordered the square are all now more or less
in ruins; but there are still so many of them standing
as to show exactly what the forms of the buildings
must have been when they were complete, and how the
square must have appeared.
In another part of the town were the
remains of two theatres, and outside the walls an
immense amphitheatre, where were exhibited the combats
of wild beasts, and those of the gladiators. There
are a great many ruins of amphitheatres like this
scattered over Italy. They are of an oval form,
and the seats extend all around. The place where
the combats took place was a level spot in the centre,
called the arena.
In viewing these various ruins, Mr.
George and the two students seemed most interested
in the theatres, and temples, and other great public
edifices, while Mrs. Gray and the children seemed to
think a great deal more of the houses and the shops.
There was one baker’s shop with the oven entire,
and three stone hand mills, in which the baker used
to grind his corn. There were a great many curious
utensils and implements found in this shop, when it
was first excavated; but Mr. George said that they
had all been removed.
“I wish they had let them stay here,”
said Rollo.
“It would be a great deal more
interesting to us to see them here,” said Mr.
George, “but they would not have been safe.
The government has therefore built an immense museum
at Naples, and every thing that is movable has been
carried there. So we come here first to see the
town and the remains of the shops and the houses,
and then afterwards we go to the museum at Naples
to see the things that were found in them.”
After rambling about in Pompeii for
several hours, the party went out by another gate,
where they found the carriage waiting for them, and
so returned home.