On the day when Rollo went with Charles
and Allie to see the Tarpeian Rock, the reader will
perhaps recollect that Mr. George was engaged at the
reading room in reading the American papers which had
that morning arrived. When Rollo returned from
his excursion, he found that Mr. George had not got
home, and he accordingly concluded to go to the reading
room and see if he could find him.
This reading room is attached to an
English bookstore and library, and is a great place
of resort for visitors at Rome. It is situated
at the end of the Piazza di Spagna,
which is one of the principal and most frequented
public squares in Rome. This square contains several
of the chief hotels, and a great many shops.
The bookstore of Piale is the general centre of news
and intelligence for all English and American visitors.
Here people come to make inquiries for their friends,
for there is a register kept at the library with the
names of all the English and American visitors in
Rome recorded in it, and the addresses of the hotels
or private houses where they are lodging. Here
all sorts of notices are posted up, such as advertisements
of things lost or found, of parties forming for excursions,
of couriers wanting places or families wanting couriers,
of paintings for sale, carriages for sale or for hire, and
all such things.
Piale’s establishment contains
a number of different rooms. The first that Rollo
entered on arriving at the place was the bookstore.
This was a small room. There was a desk at one
end, where a clerk was sitting. There were shelves
filled with books all around the room, and a large
table in the centre, which was also covered with books
arranged in tiers one above the other in a sloping
direction. There were several doors leading off
from this apartment, one of which led to a room where
a circulating library was kept, and another to the
reading room.
When Rollo entered the bookstore,
he saw several groups of visitors there. There
were two or three ladies looking over the books on
the shelves. There was a group of gentlemen standing
near the desk, talking together, with a paper in their
hands which seemed to contain a list of names.
Just as Rollo entered, a carriage drove up to the door,
and two ladies dismounted from it and came in.
Rollo’s attention was first attracted to these
two ladies. One of them, on entering, accosted
the clerk, and asked to look at the register.
The clerk immediately gave the two ladies seats at
a side table, where there was a large book full of
names and addresses. The ladies sat down, and
began to look over the book. They had just arrived
from Naples, and they wished to know what friends
and acquaintances of theirs there were in town.
Rollo began to examine the books on
the table, or counter, in the middle of the room,
and while doing so he happened to pass near the gentlemen
that were looking at the paper.
“We want twelve,” said
one of the gentlemen, “and we have got only
nine.”
“Yes,” said the other,
“we want three more. It must be that there
are a great many in town who would like to go, if
we could only find them out.”
Rollo’s attention was immediately
arrested by these words. It was obvious that
the gentlemen were forming a party to go somewhere,
or to see something, and he felt quite confident that
his uncle George would like to join them.
“At any rate,” said he
to himself, “I should like to go, wherever
it is.”
So Rollo summoned courage to accost
the persons who were consulting together, and to ask
them if they wished to find some gentlemen to make
up a party.
“Gentlemen or ladies either,”
said one of them, “no matter which. We are
making up a party to go and see the statues in the
Vatican by torch light.”
When Rollo heard the words “torch
light,” his interest in the proposed party was
greatly increased, and he said he had no doubt that
his uncle would like to go.
“I am very sure he would like
to go,” said Rollo, “and to take me.”
“Very well,” said one
of the gentlemen, “that will make two. And
we only want three. Where is your uncle?”
“He is in the reading room,”
said Rollo. “Wait a moment, and I’ll
call him.”
“That’s right,”
said the gentleman. “Tell him it will cost
us a scudo and a half apiece.”
So Rollo, taking out half a paul from
his pocket, that being the price of admission
to the reading room for a single day, and
giving it to the clerk at the desk, opened a door
by the side of the desk, and passed into the reading
room. Instead of being only one reading room,
however, he found that there were two, with an open
door leading from one to the other. There were
a great number of very comfortable sofas and arm chairs
all about these rooms, and great tables in the middle
of them covered with newspapers and magazines.
The walls of both rooms were completely covered with
paintings of all sizes, most of which had been left
there for sale. There were a great many gentlemen
sitting around the tables and upon the sofas, reading.
Among them Rollo soon found Mr. George. He had
established himself in a comfortable arm chair, near
a great window that looked out upon the square.
But he was obliged to keep the curtain down, on account
of the beggars outside, that gave him no peace as
long as they could see him.
“Uncle George,” said Rollo,
“here are some gentlemen who want to make up
a party to go and see something by torch light, and
I thought that perhaps you and I would like to join
it.”
“Where is it that they are going?”
asked Mr. George “to the Vatican?”
“Yes,” said Rollo, “it
is the Vatican. A scudo and a half apiece.”
“Very well,” said Mr.
George. “I should like to go. Where
are the gentlemen?”
“They are out here in the bookstore.
Come out and I will show them to you.”
So Mr. George laid down his paper,
and followed Rollo out into the bookstore. Rollo
led the way to the place where the gentlemen were
standing, and then introduced his uncle, in a distinct
and audible voice, thus,
“This is my uncle, gentlemen, Mr. George Holiday.”
The gentlemen greeted Mr. Holiday
in a very polite manner, and informed him of their
plan, and that they wanted three more names to make
up the necessary number for a party.
And here I ought to say in explanation,
that what is called the “Vatican” is a
vast collection of very magnificent and imposing buildings, consisting
of palaces, chapels, halls, galleries, and the like,
almost without number, and it is filled
with paintings, sculptures, manuscripts, books, jewels,
gems, and other curiosities and treasures of incalculable
value. It is situated in close proximity to the
great Church of St. Peter’s the largest
and most gorgeous church in the world. Indeed,
the church and the palaces form, as it were, one vast
architectural pile, which is of almost inconceivable
magnificence and grandeur.
The various edifices which compose
the Vatican were several centuries in building, and
the immense magnitude and extent of the edifice, and
the exhaustless wealth of the treasures of art deposited
there, astonish every beholder. The buildings
are so extensive that they require eight grand staircases
and two hundred smaller ones to gain access to the
different stories. There are twenty open courts
and over four thousand different rooms. Some
of these rooms are galleries nearly a quarter of a
mile long, and are filled on each side with sculptures
and statuary, or other works of art, from end to end.
The length of these galleries is not, however, out
of proportion to other parts of the structure.
The church of St. Peter’s, including the portico,
is considerably more than a quarter of a mile
long.
Now, among the treasures of the Vatican
are an immense number of ancient statues which were
dug up, in the middle ages, in and around Rome; and
some of these sculptures are the most celebrated works
of art in the world. They are arranged with great
care in a great number of beautiful chambers and halls,
and are visited during the daytime by thousands of
people that have come to Rome from every part of the
world. The picture galleries, the collection
of ancient curiosities, and the library rooms containing
the books and manuscripts, are also in the same manner
thrown open, and they are thronged with visitors almost
all the time. These apartments are so numerous
and so extensive that in one day a person can do little
else than to walk through them, and give one general
gaze of bewildering wonder at the whole scene.
And a very long walk it is, I can assure you.
At one time, when I set out from the painting rooms,
(which are far in the interior of the buildings,)
with a party of friends, intending to go out, in order
to go home, we walked steadily on at our ordinary
pace, without stopping, or deviating from our way,
and we found that it took us twenty minutes to get
out to our carriage!
In addition to these visits made during
the day, small parties are sometimes formed to visit
the galleries of statuary by night. It is found
that the illumination of a torch, by the strong contrasts
of light and shade which it produces, brings out the
expression of the statues in a very striking manner,
so as to produce sometimes a most wonderful effect.
It is, however, somewhat expensive
to exhibit these statues by torch light, partly on
account of the cost of the torches, and partly on
account of the attendants that are required. The
cost is nearly twenty dollars. It is accordingly
customary to make up a party, whenever an evening
visit to the Vatican is proposed, in order to divide
the expense. The number that can see the statues
to advantage in these evening visits is from twelve
to fifteen. A party of twelve is sufficient to
pay the expense at the rate of a scudo and a half for
each person.
It was such a plan as this that the
gentlemen were forming, whose party Mr. George and
Rollo were now proposing to join.
The gentlemen had been much pleased
with Rollo’s appearance and demeanor when he
accosted them, and they were now still more pleased,
when they saw Mr. George, to find that he was a young
gentleman, of about their own age, and that he was
so prepossessing in his countenance and in his air
and manner. Mr. George readily agreed to join
the party. They asked him if he knew of any body
else that he thought would like to go. He inquired
whether there were to be any ladies in the party.
They said that there were to be several. “Then,”
said Mr. George, “I will be responsible for
the twelfth place. I am quite sure that I can
find some person that would like to go.
“And suppose I find more than one?” said
Mr. George.
“That will do no harm,”
replied the gentlemen. “We can have from
twelve to fifteen in the party.”
“Then I will take the three
places,” said Mr. George, “and I will pay
my proportion now. Which of you gentlemen acts
as treasurer?”
One of the three gentlemen said that
he had undertaken to collect and pay over the money,
but he added that it was not necessary for Mr. George
to pay at that time. Mr. George, however, preferred
to do so, and he accordingly took out his purse and
paid his four scudi and a half, which was the amount
due for three persons. The gentlemen seemed to
be quite pleased to find that their party was thus
made up, and they told Mr. George that since he had
taken and paid for the three remaining places, he
might bring with him any number of persons that he
pleased, so long as he did not make the party more
than fifteen in all. It was agreed, too, that
the party was to rendezvous that evening, at eight
o’clock, at the foot of the grand staircase,
leading from the portico of St. Peter’s up to
the principal court of the Vatican.
Mr. George, as soon as he went home,
sent Rollo to Mrs. Beekman’s room to inform
her of the proposed party, and to ask her if she would
like to join it.
“And may I invite Allie too?” asked Rollo.
“Yes,” said Mr. George,
“and Charles. Though I don’t think
they will wish to go, for such children generally
feel very little interest in statues.”
It is true that young persons, like
Charles and Allie, generally feel little interest
in sculptures and statuary; but, on the other hand,
they feel a very great interest in torch light, and
both Charles and Allie were exceedingly eager to join
the party. It was finally agreed that all three
should go. It was arranged that Mr. George and
Rollo were to call for them at seven o’clock.
Mr. Beekman was engaged to dine that evening with
a party of gentlemen, and so he was left out of the
account altogether.
At seven o’clock, accordingly,
Mr. George and Rollo called at Mrs. Beekman’s
rooms, and a few minutes afterwards they all went together
down to the door of the hotel, where Mr. George beckoned
to the coachman of one of the carriages that stood
in the square.
The whole party entered the carriage,
after Mr. George had made his bargain with the coachman,
and immediately set off. They rode for some distance
along a pretty straight road, and then came to a bridge,
which was opposite to a great round castle. They
went over this bridge, and then turning to the left,
under the walls of the castle, they went on towards
the Vatican.
“We shall arrive there some
time before the hour,” said Mr. George; “but
I thought it was better to be too early than too late.”
“Yes,” replied Mrs. Beekman,
“we can amuse ourselves half an hour in rambling
about the colonnades and pórticos of St. Peter’s.”
In front of St. Peter’s there
is an immense area, enclosed on each side by a magnificent
semicircular colonnade. There are four rows of
lofty columns in this colonnade, with a carriage way
in the centre between them. The space enclosed
between these colonnades is called the piazza,
and it is adorned with fountains and colossal statues,
and on days of public festivities and celebrations,
it is filled with an immense concourse of people.
It is large enough to contain a great many thousands.
When Mr. George and his party arrived,
they dismissed the carriage and began to walk to and
fro under the colonnade and about the piazza.
The time passed away very rapidly; and at length,
a few minutes before eight, the other carriages began
to come. All the persons who belonged to the
party were anxious to arrive in time, for they were
afraid that, if they were too late, the others would
have gone into the Vatican, where, the building being
so immense, it might be very difficult to find them.
Accordingly, before the clock struck
eight, all the party were assembled at the entrance
door.
The entrance opened from a vast covered
gallery, which formed one of the approaches to St.
Peter’s, between the end of the colonnade and
the main front of the building. There were several
Swiss sentinels on guard here. They were dressed
in what seemed to Rollo a very fantastic garb.
In a few minutes the men who were to accompany the
party through the galleries appeared. One of
them carried a great number of very long candles under
his arm. Another had a long pole with a socket
at the top of it, and a semicircular screen of tin
on one side, to screen the light of the candles from
the eyes of the visitors, and to throw it upon the
statues. When all was ready, these torch bearers
moved on, and were followed by the whole party up
the great staircase which led to the galleries of
the Vatican.
After going upward and onward for
some time, they came at length to the entrance of
one of the long galleries of sculpture. Here the
torch bearers stopped and began to prepare their torches.
They cut the long candles in two, so as to make pieces
about eighteen inches long. Taking six or eight
of these pieces, they placed them together like a bundle
of sticks, and tied them, and then crowded the ends
together into the socket upon the end of the pole.
This socket was made large enough to receive them.
They then lighted the wicks, and thus they had a large
number of candles all burning together as one.
The screen, which I have already spoken
of, covered this blaze of light upon one side, so
as to keep it from shining upon the faces of the company.
Thus provided the torch bearers went
on, and the company followed them. Of course,
there is only time in the two hours usually appropriated
to this exhibition to show a comparatively small number
of the statues. The torch bearers accordingly
selected such as they thought were most important
to be seen, and they passed rapidly on from one to
another of these, omitting all the others. When
they approached a statue which they were going to
exhibit, they would hold the torch up near the face
of it in such a manner as to throw a strong light
upon the features, and so bring out the expression
in a striking manner. The screen shielded the
eyes of the company from the direct rays of the flame,
and yet there was sufficient light reflected from
the marble walls of the gallery, and from the beautiful
white surfaces of the statues arranged along them,
to enable the company to discern each other very distinctly,
and to see all the objects around them.
The company passed in this manner
through one of the long galleries, stopping here and
there to look at the great masterpieces of ancient
art, and then they entered into a series of comparatively
smaller chambers and halls. Rollo was exceedingly
interested in the exhibition, and in all the attendant
circumstances of it; but he could not tell whether
Allie was pleased or not. She seemed bewildered
and struck dumb with amazement at the strange aspect
of the scenes and spectacles which were continually
presented to view. The immense extent and the
gorgeous magnificence of the galleries and halls,
the countless multitude of statues, and the almost
spectral appearance which they assumed when the torch
bearers threw the bright light of the torch upon their
cold marble faces, all impressed her with a solemn
awe, which seemed so entirely to subdue and silence
her, that Rollo could not tell how she felt, or what
she thought of the strange spectacle which he had brought
her to see.
After about an hour, the first set
of candles that had been put into the socket of the
torch pole were burned down, and then the torch bearers
supplied their places with another set formed by the
remaining halves of the candles which they had cut
in two. These lasted another hour. By that
time the company had seen all the most striking and
celebrated statues in the principal halls and galleries.
They had been making a sort of circuit through the
palace in passing through these rooms, and now came
out very near the entrance door, where they had come
in. Here the torch bearers left them, and went
away with their apparatus to the part of the building
where they belonged, while the company, descending
the grand staircase, came out into one of the pórticos
of the church, and issuing from the portico they found
carriages in waiting upon the piazza, and ready to
convey them home. Mr. George and his party reached
their hotel about nine o’clock, all very much
pleased with the spectacle which they had witnessed.