About eight o’clock on the morning
after our travellers arrived at Interlachen Rollo
awoke, and, rising from his bed, he walked to the
window and looked out, expecting to find before him
a very grand prospect of Alpine scenery; but there
was nothing of the kind to be seen.
Before the house was a garden, with
a broad gravel walk leading out through it to the
road. On each side of this walk were parterres
of shrubbery and flowers. There were also two
side approaches, wide enough for roads. They
came from the main road through great open gates, at
a little distance to the right and left of the hotel.
The main road, which was broad and perfectly level,
extended in front of the house; and two or three Swiss
peasants, in strange costume, were passing by.
Beyond were green and level fields, with fruit and
forest trees rising here and there among them, forming
a very rich and attractive landscape. The sky
was covered with clouds, though they were very fleecy
and bright, and in one place the sun seemed just ready
to break through.
“I thought Interlachen was among
the mountains,” said Rollo to himself; “and
here I am in the middle of a flat plain.
“I will go and see uncle George,”
he continued after a moment’s pause, “and
ask him what it means.”
So Rollo opened the door of his room
and went out into what in America would be called
the entry, or hall. He found himself in a long
corridor paved with stone, and having broad stone
staircases leading up and down from it to the different
stories. In one place there was a passage way
which led to a window that seemed to be on the back
side of the hotel. Rollo went there to look out,
in order to see what the prospect might be in that
direction.
He saw first the gardens and grounds
of the hotel, extending for a short distance in the
rear of the building, and beyond them he obtained
glimpses of a rapidly running stream. The water
was very turbid. It boiled and whirled incessantly
as it swept swiftly along the channel.
“Ah,” said Rollo, “that
is the River Aar, I suppose, flowing through Interlachen
from one lake to the other. I thought I should
see it somewhere here; but I did not know whether
it was before the hotels or behind them.”
A short distance beyond the stream
Rollo saw the lower part of a perpendicular precipice
of gray rock. All except the lower part of this
precipice was concealed by the fogs and clouds, which
seemed to settle down so low upon the landscape in
all directions as to conceal almost every thing but
the surface of the ground.
“I wonder how high that precipice
is,” said Rollo to himself.
“I wonder whether I could climb
up to the top of it,” he continued, still talking
to himself, “if I could only find some way to
get across the river? There must be some way,
I suppose. Perhaps there is a bridge.”
Rollo then turned his eye upward to
look at the clouds. In one place there seemed
to be a break among them, and the fleecy masses around
the break were slowly moving along. The place
where Rollo was looking was about the middle of the
sky; that is, about midway between the horizon and
the zenith. While Rollo was looking at this break,
which seemed, while he looked at it, to brighten up
and open more and more, he saw suddenly, to his utter
amazement, a large green tree burst into view in the
midst of it, and then disappear again a moment afterwards
as a fresh mass of cloudy vapor drifted over.
Rollo was perfectly bewildered with astonishment.
To see a green tree, clear and distinct in form and
bright with the beams of the sun which just at that
instant caught upon it, breaking out to view suddenly
high up among the clouds of the sky, seemed truly
an astonishing spectacle. Rollo had scarcely recovered
from the first emotion of his surprise before the
clouds parted again, wider than before, and brought
into view, first a large mass of foliage, which formed
the termination of a grove of trees; then a portion
of a smooth, green field, with a flock of sheep feeding
upon it, clinging apparently to the steep slope like
flies to a wall; and finally a house, with a little
blue smoke curling from the chimney. Rollo was
perfectly beside himself with astonishment and delight
at this spectacle; and he determined immediately to
go and ask his uncle to come and see.
He accordingly left the window and
made all haste to his uncle’s door. He
knocked. His uncle said, “Come in.”
Rollo opened the door. His uncle was standing
by the window of his room, looking out. This was
on the front side of the hotel.
“Uncle George!” said Rollo,
“Uncle George! Come and look out with me
at the back window. There is a flock of sheep
feeding in a green field away up in the sky!”
“Come and look here!” said Mr. George.
So Rollo went to the window where
Mr. George was standing, and his astonishment at what
he saw was even greater than before. The clouds
had separated into great fleecy masses and were slowly
drifting away, while through the openings that appeared
in them there were seen bright and beautiful views
of groves, green pasturages, smiling little hamlets
and villages, green fields, and here and there dark
forests of evergreen trees, with peaks of rocks or
steep precipices peeping out among them. At one
place, through an opening or gap in the nearer mountains,
there could be seen far back towards the horizon the
broad sides and towering peak of a distant summit,
which seemed to be wholly formed of vast masses of
ice and snow, and which glittered with an inexpressible
brilliancy under the rays of the morning sun.
“That is the Jungfrau," said Mr. George.
“That great icy mountain?” said Rollo.
“Yes,” said Mr. George.
“Can we get up to the top of it?” asked
Rollo.
“No,” said Mr. George.
“People tried for more than a thousand years
to get to the top of the Jungfrau before they could
succeed.”
“And did they succeed at last?” asked
Rollo.
“Yes,” replied Mr. George.
“You see there is a sort of goatlike animal,
called the chamois, which the peasants and
mountaineers are very fond of hunting. These
animals are great climbers, and they get up among
the highest peaks and into the most dangerous places;
and the hunters, in going into such places after them,
become at last very expert in climbing, and sometimes
they become ambitious of surpassing each other, and
each one wishes to see how high he can get. So
one time, about twenty-five years ago, a party of
six of these hunters undertook to get to the top of
the Jungfrau, and at last they succeeded. But
it was a dreadfully difficult and dangerous operation.
It was fifteen miles’ steep climbing.”
“Not steep climbing all the way,” said
Rollo.
“No,” said Mr. George,
“I suppose not all the way. There must have
been some up-and-down work, and some perhaps tolerably
level, for the first ten miles; but the last five
must have been a perpetual scramble among rocks and
ice and over vast drifts of snow, with immense avalanches
thundering down the mountain sides all around them.”
“I wish I could go and see them,” said
Rollo.
“You can go,” replied
Mr. George. “There is a most excellent chance
to see the face of the Jungfrau very near; for there
is another mountain this side of it, with a narrow
valley between. This other mountain is called
the Wengern Alp. It is about two thirds the height
of the Jungfrau, and is so near it that from the top
of it, or near the top, you can see the whole side
of the Jungfrau rising right before you and filling
half the sky, and you can see and hear the avalanches
thundering down the sides of it all day long.”
Rollo was quite excited at this account,
and was very eager to set off as soon as possible
to go up the Wengern Alp.
“How do we get there?” asked he.
“You see this great gap in the
near mountains,” said Mr. George, pointing.
“Yes,” said Rollo.
“That gap,” continued
Mr. George, “is the mouth of a valley. I
have been studying it out this morning in my guide
book. There is a good carriage road leading up
this valley. It is called the valley of the Luetschine,
because that is the name of the river which comes down
through it. In going up this valley for the first
two or three miles we are going directly towards the
Jungfrau.”
“Yes,” said Rollo. “That I
can see very plainly.”
This was indeed very obvious; for
the Jungfrau, from the windows of the hotel, was seen
through the great gap in the near mountains which Mr.
George had pointed out as the mouth of the valley of
the Luetschine. In fact, had it not been for
that gap in the near mountains, the great snow-covered
summit could not have been seen from the hotels at
all.
“We go up that valley,”
continued Mr. George, “about three miles, and
then we come to a fork in it; that is, to a place where
the valley divides into two branches, one turning
off to the right and the other to the left. Directly
ahead there is an enormous precipice, I don’t
know how many thousand feet high, of bare rock.
“One of these branch valleys,”
continued Mr. George, “leads up to one side
of the Wengern Alp and the Jungfrau, and the other
to the other side. We may take the right-hand
valley and go up five or six miles to Lauterbrunnen,
or we may take the left-hand branch and go up to Grindelwald.
Which way do you think we had better go?”
“I do not know,” said
Rollo. “Can we get up to the Wengern Alp
from either valley?”
“Yes,” said Mr. George.
“We can go up from one of these valleys, and
then, after stopping as long as we choose on the Alp,
we can continue our journey and so come down into
the other, and thus see them both. One of the
valleys is famous for two great glaciers that descend
into it. The other is famous for immense waterfalls
that come down over the precipices at the sides.”
“Let us go first and see the waterfalls,”
said Rollo.
“Well,” said Mr. George,
“we will. We shall have to turn to the right
in that case and go to Lauterbrunnen. When we
get to Lauterbrunnen we shall have to leave our carriage
and take horses to go up to the Wengern Alp.
The way is by a steep path, formed in zigzags,
right up the sides of the mountains.”
“How far is it?” asked Rollo.
“I don’t know precisely,”
said Mr. George; “but it is a good many miles.
It takes, at any rate, several hours to go up.
We can stop at the Wengern Alp as long as we please
and look at the Jungfrau and the avalanches, and after
that go on down into the valley of Grindelwald on
the other side, and so come home.”
“But how can we get our carriage?” asked
Rollo.
“O, they send the carriage back,
I believe,” said Mr. George, “from Lauterbrunnen
to the great precipice at the fork of the valley.”
Mr. George, having thus finished his
account of the topography of the route to the Wengern
Alp, went away from the window and returned to the
table where he had been employed in writing some letters
just before Rollo had come in. Rollo was left
at the window. He leaned his arms upon the sill,
and, looking down to the area below, amused himself
with observing what was going on there.
There were several persons standing
or sitting upon the piazza. Presently he heard
the sound of wheels. A carriage came driving up
towards the door. A postilion was riding upon
one of the horses. There were two servants sitting
on the box; and there was a seat behind, where another
servant and the lady’s maid were sitting.
The carriage stopped, the door was opened, and a lady
and gentleman with two boys, all dressed like travellers,
got out, and were ushered into the house with great
civility by the landlord. The baggage was taken
off and carried in, and then the carriage was driven
away round the corner.
This was an English nobleman and his
family, who were making the tour of Switzerland, and
were going to spend a few days at Interlachen on the
way.
As soon as the bustle produced by
this arrival had subsided, Rollo’s attention
was attracted by a very sweet musical sound which seemed
to be produced by something coming along the road.
“What can that be, I wonder?” said he
to himself.
Then in a little louder tone, but without turning
round,
“Uncle George, here is some music coming.
What do you think it is?”
Mr. George paused a moment to listen, and then went
on with his writing.
The mystery was soon solved; for,
in a few moments after Rollo had spoken, he saw a
large flock of goats coming along. These goats
all had bells upon their necks, or at least
a great many of them were so provided, and
these bells, having a soft and sweet tone, produced,
when their sounds were blended together, an enchanting
harmony. The goats walked demurely along, driven
by one or two goatherds who were following them, and
soon disappeared behind the trees and shrubbery.
Very soon after their forms had disappeared from view
the music of their bells began to grow fainter and
fainter until it ceased to be heard.
“It was a flock of goats going by,” said
Rollo.
Rollo next heard voices; and, turning
in the direction whence the sounds proceeded, he saw
a party of young men coming up towards the door of
the hotel along the gravelled avenue. This was
a party of German students making the tour of Switzerland
on foot. They had knapsacks on their backs, and
stout walking sticks and guide books in their hands.
They came up talking and laughing together, full of
hilarity and glee; and yet some of them seemed very
tired. They had walked six miles that morning,
and were now going to stop at this hotel for breakfast.
Rollo listened to their conversation; but, as it was
in the German language, he could not understand one
word that they were saying.
“Dear me!” said he; “I
wish that every body would talk either French or English.”
As soon as the students had passed
on into the inn Rollo heard another carriage coming.
He looked and found that it was a char a banc.
A char a banc is a small, one-horse carriage, which
looks upon the outside very much like what is called
a carryall in America, only it is much narrower.
It differs very much, however, from a carryall within;
for it has only a seat for two persons, and that is
placed sideways, with the end to the horses.
You ride in it, therefore, sideways, as you do in an
omnibus, only in an omnibus there are two seats, one
on each side, and the door is at the end; whereas
in the char a banc there is a seat only on one side,
and the door is opposite to it on the other. The
seat is large and comfortable, being very much like
a short sofa. Some people, therefore, describe
a char a banc as a sofa placed endwise on wheels.
The char a banc stopped before the
door of the hotel; and the coachman, getting down
from his seat in front, opened the door. A very
dignified-looking gentleman stepped out; and, after
standing a moment on the piazza to give some directions
about his portmanteau, he went into the office of
the hotel.
Rollo, looking down from the window
of his uncle George’s room, could see all these
things very plainly; for the roof which protected the
piazza from the rain was up at the top of the hotel,
and therefore did not interfere with his view.
After having made the above-described
observations from the window, Rollo began to think
that he would like to go down below to the door, where
he thought he could see what was going on to better
advantage.
“Uncle George,” said he,
“when are you going down to breakfast?”
“In about half an hour,”
said Mr. George. “I have got another letter
to write.”
“Then I believe I will go down
now,” said Rollo, “and wait there till
you come.”
“Very well,” said Mr.
George; “and please order breakfast, and then
it will be all ready when I get my letter finished.”
“What shall I order?” asked Rollo.
“I don’t know,”
said Mr. George. “I don’t know what
it is the fashion to have for breakfast here.
Ask them what they have got, and then choose for yourself
and me.”
So Rollo, putting on his cap, went down stairs.
He stood for a little time on the
piazza, looking at the strange dresses of the people
that were sitting or standing there and listening to
the outlandish sounds of the foreign languages which
they were speaking. At a little distance out
upon the gravel walk, near the shrubbery, were a party
of guides waiting to be hired for mountain excursions.
Some of these guides were talking with travellers,
forming plans, or agreeing upon the terms on which
they were to serve. Rollo, after observing these
groups a little time, walked along the piazza towards
a place where he saw an open door in another large
building, which, being connected with the piazza,
evidently belonged to the hotel. In fact, it was
a sort of wing. As there were people going in
and out at this door, Rollo thought that he could
go in too.
He accordingly walked along in that
direction. Before he reached the door he came
to a place which, though open to the air, was covered
with a roof, and was so enclosed by the buildings
on three sides as to make quite a pleasant little
nook. It was ornamented by various shrubs and
flowers which grew from tubs and large pots arranged
against the sides of it. There were several tables
in this space, with chairs around them, and one or
two parties of young men were taking their breakfast
here.
“This will be a good place for
uncle George and me to have our breakfast,”
said Rollo to himself, “and we can see the Jungfrau
all the time while we are eating it.”
Rollo then went on into the open door.
He found himself ushered into a very large and beautiful
drawing room. There were a great many sofas arranged
around the sides of it, on which parties of ladies
and gentlemen were sitting talking together; while
other gentlemen, their hats in their hands, were standing
before them or walking about the floor. There
was no carpet; but the floor was formed of dark wood
highly polished, and was very beautiful. There
was a fireplace in one corner of this room; but there
was no fire in it. No fire was necessary; for
it was a warm and pleasant morning.
On the front side of the room was
a row of windows looking out towards the road.
On the back side was a door opening to another large
room, where Rollo saw a table spread and several people
sitting at it eating their breakfast.
“Ah,” said Rollo, “there
is the dining room! I will go in there and see
what we can have for breakfast.”
So he walked through the drawing room
and entered the room beyond. He found that this
inner room was quite a spacious apartment; and there
were one or two long tables extending the whole length
of it.
There were various separate parties
sitting at these tables taking breakfast. Some
were just beginning. Some had just ended.
Some were waiting for their breakfast to be brought
in. Near where Rollo was standing two gentlemen
were seated at the table, with a map of Switzerland
spread before them; and, instead of being occupied
with breakfast, they were planning some excursion
for the day.
Rollo looked out a vacant place at
the table and took his seat. A waiter came to
him to know what he would have.
“I want breakfast for two,”
said Rollo, “my uncle and myself. What have
you got for us?”
The waiter repeated a long list of
very nice things that he could give Rollo and his
uncle for breakfast. From among these Rollo chose
a beef steak, some hot rolls and butter, some honey,
and some coffee. The waiter went out to prepare
them.
In about ten minutes Mr. George came
down. He took his seat by the side of Rollo;
and very soon afterwards the waiter brought in what
had been ordered. Rollo liked the breakfast very
much, especially the honey.
It is very customary to have honey
for breakfast in Switzerland.