“... For the sake Of these,
my kinsmen and my countrymen, Who early and late
in the windy ocean toiled To plant a star for seamen.”
The pirate, Ralph the Rover, so legend
tells, while cruising off the coast of Scotland searching
for booty or sport, sank the warning bell on one of
the great rocks, to plague the good Abbot of Arbroath
who had put it there. The following year the
Rover returned and perished himself on the same rock.
In the life of one of Scotland’s
great men, Robert Louis Stevenson, we find proud record
of his grandfather, Robert Stevenson, having built
Bell Rock Lighthouse on this same spot years afterward.
No story of Robert Louis Stevenson’s
life would be complete that failed to mention the
work done for Scotland and the world at large by the
two men he held most dear, the engineers, his father
and grandfather.
When Robert Stevenson, his grandfather,
received his appointment on the Board of Northern
Lights the art of lighthouse building in Scotland had
just begun. Its bleak, rocky shores were world-famous
for their danger, and few mariners cared to venture
around them. At that time the coast “was
lighted at a single point, the Isle of May, in the
jaws of the Firth of Forth, where, on a tower already
a hundred and fifty years old, an open coal-fire blazed
in an open chaufer. The whole archipelago thus
nightly plunged in darkness was shunned by seagoing
vessels.”
The board at first proposed building
four new lights, but afterward built many more, so
that to-day Scotland stands foremost among the nations
for the number and splendor of her coast lights.
Their construction in those early
days meant working against tremendous obstacles and
dangers, and the life of the engineer was a hazardous
one.
“The seas into which his labors
carried him were still scarce charted, the coasts
still dark; his way on shore was often far beyond the
convenience of any road; the isles in which he must
sojourn were still partly savage. He must toss
much in boats; he must often adventure much on horseback
by dubious bridle-track through unfrequented wildernesses;
he must sometimes plant his lighthouses in the very
camp of wreckers.
“The aid of steam was not yet.
At first in random coasting sloop, and afterwards
in the cutter belonging to the service, the engineer
must ply and run amongst these multiplied dangers
and sometimes late into the stormy autumn.”
All of which failed to daunt Robert
Stevenson who loved action and adventure and the scent
of things romantic.
“Not only had towers to be built
and apparatus transplanted, the supply of oil must
be maintained and the men fed, in the same inaccessible
and distant scenes, a whole service with its routine
... had to be called out of nothing; and a new trade
(that of light-keeper) to be taught, recruited and
organized.”
Bell Rock was only one of twenty lighthouses
Robert Stevenson helped to build, but it was by far
the most difficult one ... and even to-day, after
it has been lighted for more than a hundred years,
it still remains unique a monument to his
skill.
Bell Rock was practically a reef completely
submerged at full tide and only a few feet of its
crest visible at low water. To raise a tower on
it meant placing a foundation under water, a new and
perilous experiment.
“Work upon the rock in the earliest
stages was confined to the calmest days of the summer
season, when the tides were lowest, the water smoothest,
and the wind in its calmest mood. Under such conditions
the men were able to stay on the site for about five
hours....
“One distinct drawback was the
necessity to establish a depot some distance from
the erecting site. Those were the days before
steam navigation, and the capricious sailing craft
offered the only means of maintaining communication
between rock and shore, and for the conveyance of
men and materials to and fro....
“A temporary beacon was placed
on the reef, while adjacent to the site selected for
the tower a smith’s forge was made fast, so as
to withstand the dragging motion of the waves when
the rock was submerged. The men were housed on
the Smeaton, which, during the spells of work
on the rock, rode at anchor a short distance away
in deep water.”
Once the engineers were all but lost
when the Smeaton slipped her moorings and left
them stranded on the rock.
In spite of all the obstacles, the
work was completed at the end of two years and the
light was shown for the first time February 1, 1811.
“I found Robert Stevenson an
appreciative and intelligent companion,” writes
Sir Walter Scott in his journal, speaking of a cruise
he made among the islands of Scotland with a party
of engineers. The notes made by him on this trip
were used afterward in his two stories, “The
Pirate” and “Lord of the Isles.”
“My grandfather was king in
the service to his finger-tips,” wrote Louis
Stevenson. “All should go his way, from
the principal light-keeper’s coat to the assistant’s
fender, from the gravel in the garden walks to the
bad smell in the kitchen, or the oil spots on the storeroom
floor. It might be thought there was nothing
more calculated to awaken men’s resentment,
and yet his rule was not more thorough than it was
beneficent. His thought for the keepers was continual....
When a keeper was sick, he lent him his horse and
sent him mutton and brandy from the ship....
They dwelt, many of them, in uninhabited isles or desert
forelands, totally cut off from shops.
“No servant of the Northern
Lights came to Edinburgh but he was entertained at
Baxter Place. There at his own table my grandfather
sat down delightedly with his broad-spoken, homespun
officers.”
As he grew old his “medicine
and delight” was his annual trip among his lighthouses,
but at length there came a time when this joy was taken
away from him and there came “the end of all
his cruising; the knowledge that he had looked the
last on Sunburgh, and the wild crags of Skye, and
the Sound of Mull; that he was never again to hear
the surf break in Clashcarnock; never again to see
lighthouse after lighthouse (all younger than himself,
and the more, part of his own device) open in the
hour of dusk their flower of fire, or the topaz and
ruby interchange on the summit of Bell Rock.”
Throughout the rank and file of his
men he was adored. “I have spoken with
many who knew him; I was his grandson, and their words
may very well have been words of flattery; but there
was one thing that could not be affected, and that
was the look that came over their faces at the name
of Robert Stevenson.”
Of his family of thirteen children,
three of his sons became engineers. Thomas Stevenson,
the father of Robert Louis, like the others of his
family, contributed largely to lighthouse building
and harbor improvement, serving under his older brother,
Allen, in building the Skerryvore, one of the most
famous deep-sea lights erected on a treacherous reef
off the west coast where, for more than forty years,
one wreck after another had occurred.
“From the navigator’s
point of view, the danger of this spot lay chiefly
in the fact that it was so widely scattered. The
ridge runs like a broken backbone for a distance of
some eight miles.... In rough weather the whole
of the rocks are covered, and the waves, beating heavily
on the mass, convert the scene into one of indescribable
tumult....
“There was only one point where
a tower could be placed, and this was so exposed that
the safe handling of men and material constituted a
grave responsibility.”
It was necessary to erect a tower
one hundred and thirty feet high; “the loftiest
and weightiest work of its character that had ever
been contemplated up to this time....
“The Atlantic swell, which rendered
landing on the ridge precarious and hazardous, did
not permit the men to be housed upon a floating home,
as had been the practice in the early days of the
Bell Rock tower. In order to permit the work
to go forward as uninterruptedly as the sea would
allow, a peculiar barrack was erected. It was
a house on stilts, the legs being sunk firmly into
the rock, with the living quarters perched some fifty
feet up in the air.
“Residence in this tower was
eerie. The men climbed the ladder and entered
a small room, which served the purposes of kitchen,
living-room, and parlor....
“When a storm was raging, the
waves, as they combed over the rock, shook the legs
violently and scurried under the floor in seething
foam. Now and again a roller, rising higher than
its fellows, broke upon the rock and sent a mass of
water against the flooring to hammer at the door.
Above the living-room were the sleeping quarters, high
and dry, save when a shower of spray fell upon the
roof and walls like heavy hail.... The men, however,
were not perturbed. Sleeping, even under such
conditions, was far preferable to doubtful rest in
a bunk upon an attendant vessel, rolling and pitching
with the motion of the sea. They had had a surfeit
of such experience ... while the barrack was under
erection.
“For two years it withstood
the seas without incident, and the engineer and men
came to regard the eyrie as safe as a house on shore.
But one night the little colony received a shock.
The angry Atlantic got one or two of its trip-hammer
blows well home, and smashed the structure to fragments.
Fortunately, at the time it was untenanted.”
No time was lost in rebuilding the
barrack and this time it withstood all tests until
it was torn down after Skerryvore was finished.
“While the foundations were
being prepared, and until the barrack was constructed,
the men ran other terrible risks every morning and
night landing upon and leaving the polished surface
of the reef. Five months during the summer was
the working season, but even then many days and weeks
were often lost owing to the swell being too great
to permit the rowing boat to come alongside.
The engineer relates that the work was ’a good
lesson in the school of patience,’ because the
delays were frequent and galling, while every storm
which got up and expended its rage upon the reef left
its mark indelibly among the engineer’s stock
in trade. Cranes and other materials were swept
away as if they were corks; lashings, no matter how
strong, were snapped like pack-threads.
“Probably the worst experience
was when the men on the rock were weather-bound for
seven weeks during one season.... Their provisions
sank to a very low level, they ran short of fuel, their
sodden clothing was worn to rags....
“Six years were occupied in
the completion of the work, and, as may be imagined,
the final touches were welcomed with thankfulness by
those who had been concerned in the enterprise.”
It was in meteorological researches
and illumination of lighthouses, however, that Thomas
Stevenson did his greatest work. It was he who
brought to perfection the revolving light now so generally
used.
In spite of this and other valuable
inventions his name has remained little known, owing
to the fact that none of his inventions were ever
patented. The Stevensons believed that, holding
government appointments, any original work they did
belonged to the nation. “A patent not only
brings in money but spreads reputation,” writes
his son, “and my father’s instruments
enter anonymously into a hundred light rooms and are
passed anonymously over in a hundred reports, where
the least considerable patent would stand out and
tell its author’s story.”
He was beloved among a wide circle
of friends and the esteem of those in his profession
was shown when in 1884 they chose him for president
of the Royal Society of Edinburgh. To the general
public, however, he remained unknown in spite of the
fact that “His lights were in all parts of the
world guiding the mariners.”