“An acorn fell from an old oak tree,
And lay on the frosty ground
‘O, what shall the fate of the acorn
be?’
Was whispered all around
By low-toned voices chiming sweet,
Like a floweret’s bell when swung
And grasshopper steeds were gathering
fleet,
And the beetle’s hoofs up-rung.”
Mrs. Seba Smith.
There is a wide-spread error on the
subject of American scenery. From the size of
the lakes, the length and breadth of the rivers, the
vast solitudes of the forests, and the seemingly boundless
expanse of the prairies, the world has come to attach
to it an idea of grandeur; a word that is in nearly
every case, misapplied. The scenery of that portion
of the American continent which has fallen to the share
of the Anglo-Saxon race, very seldom rises to a scale
that merits this term; when it does, it is more owing
to the accessories, as in the case of the interminable
woods, than to the natural face of the country.
To him who is accustomed to the terrific sublimity
of the Alps, the softened and yet wild grandeur of
the Italian lakes, or to the noble witchery of the
shores of the Mediterranean, this country is apt to
seem tame, and uninteresting as a whole; though it
certainly has exceptions that carry charms of this
nature to the verge of loveliness.
Of the latter character is the face
of most of that region which lies in the angle formed
by the junction of the Mohawk with the Hudson, extending
as far south, or even farther, than the line of Pennsylvania,
and west to the verge of that vast rolling plain which
composes Western New York. This is a region of
more than ten thousand square miles of surface, embracing
to-day, ten counties at least, and supporting a rural
population of near half a million of souls, excluding
the river towns.
All who have seen this district of
country, and who are familiar with the elements of
charming, rather than grand scenery it possesses, are
agreed in extolling its capabilities, and, in some
instances, its realities. The want of high finish
is common to everything of this sort in America; and,
perhaps we may add, that the absence of picturesqueness
as connected with the works of man, is a general defect;
still, this particular region, and all others resembling
it for they abound on the wide surface
of the twenty-six states has beauties of
its own, that it would be difficult to meet with in
any of the older portions of the earth.
They who have done us the honour to
read our previous works, will at once understand that
the district to which we allude, is that of which
we have taken more than one occasion to write; and
we return to it now, less with a desire to celebrate
its charms, than to exhibit them in a somewhat novel,
and yet perfectly historical aspect. Our own earlier
labours will have told the reader, that all of this
extended district of country, with the exception of
belts of settlements along the two great rivers named,
was a wilderness, anterior to the American revolution.
There was a minor class of exceptions to this general
rule, however, to which it will be proper to advert,
lest, by conceiving us too literally, the reader may
think he can convict us of a contradiction. In
order to be fully understood, the explanations shall
be given at a little length.
While it is true, then, that the mountainous
region, which now contains the counties of Schoharie,
Otsego, Chenango, Broome, Delaware, &c., was a wilderness
in 1775, the colonial governors had begun to make grants
of its lands, some twenty years earlier. The patent
of the estate on which we are writing lies before
us; and it bears the date of 1769, with an Indian
grant annexed, that is a year or two older. This
may be taken as a mean date for the portion of country
alluded to; some of the deeds being older, and others
still more recent. These grants of land were
originally made, subject to quit-rents to the crown;
and usually on the payment of heavy fees to the colonial
officers, after going through the somewhat supererogatory
duty of “extinguishing the Indian title,”
as it was called. The latter were pretty effectually
“extinguished” in that day, as well as
in our own; and it would be a matter of curious research
to ascertain the precise nature of the purchase-money
given to the aborigines. In the case of the patent
before us, the Indian right was “extinguished”
by means of a few rifles, blankets, kettles, and beads;
though the grant covers a nominal hundred thousand,
and a real hundred and ten or twenty thousand acres
of land.
The abuse of the grants, as land became
more valuable, induced a law, restricting the number
of acres patented to any one person, at any one time,
to a thousand. Our monarchical predecessors had
the same facilities, and it may be added, the same
propensities, to rendering a law a dead letter, as
belongs to our republican selves. The patent on
our table, being for a nominal hundred thousand acres,
contains the names of one hundred different grantees,
while three several parchment documents at its side,
each signed by thirty-three of these very persons,
vest the legal estate in the first named, for whose
sole benefit the whole concession was made; the dates
of the last instruments succeeding, by one or two
days, that of the royal patent itself.
Such is the history of most of the
original titles to the many estates that dotted the
region we have described, prior to the revolution.
Money and favouritism, however were not always the
motives of these large concessions. Occasionally,
services presented their claims; and many instances
occur in which old officers of the army, in particular,
received a species of reward, by a patent for land,
the fees being duly paid, and the Indian title righteously
“extinguished.” These grants to ancient
soldiers were seldom large, except in the cases of
officers of rank; three or four thousand well-selected
acres, being a sufficient boon to the younger sons
of Scottish lairds, or English squires, who
had been accustomed to look upon a single farm as an
estate.
As most of the soldiers mentioned
were used to forest life, from having been long stationed
at frontier posts, and had thus become familiarized
with its privations, and hardened against its dangers,
it was no unusual thing for them to sell out, or go
on half-pay, when the wants of a family began to urge
their claims, and to retire to their “patents,”
as the land itself, as well as the instrument by which
it was granted, was invariably termed, with a view
of establishing themselves permanently as landlords.
These grants from the crown, in the
portions of the colony of New York that lie west of
the river counties, were generally, if not invariably,
simple concessions of the fee, subject to quit-rents
to the king, and reservations of mines of the precious
metals, without any of the privileges of feudal seignory,
as existed in the older manors on the Hudson, on the
islands, and on the Sound. Why this distinction
was made, it exceeds our power to say; but, that the
fact was so, as a rule, we have it in proof, by means
of a great number of the original patents, themselves,
that have been transmitted to us from various sources.
Still, the habits of “home” entailed the
name, even where the thing was not to be found.
Titular manors exist, in a few instances, to this
day, where no manorial rights were ever granted; and
manor-houses were common appellations for the
residences of the landlords of large estates, that
were held in fee, without any exclusive privileges,
and subject to the reservation named. Some of
these manorial residences were of so primitive an
appearance, as to induce the belief that the names
were bestowed in pleasantry; the dwellings themselves
being of logs, with the bark still on them, and the
other fixtures to correspond. Notwithstanding
all these drawbacks, early impressions and rooted
habits could easily transfer terms to such an abode;
and there was always a saddened enjoyment among these
exiles, when they could liken their forest names and
usages to those they had left in the distant scenes
of their childhood.
The effect of the different causes
we have here given was to dot the region described,
though at long intervals, with spots of a semi-civilized
appearance, in the midst of the vast nay,
almost boundless expanse of forest.
Some of these early settlements had made considerable
advances towards finish and comfort, ere the war of
’76 drove their occupants to seek protection
against the inroads of the savages; and long after
the influx of immigration which succeeded the peace,
the fruits, the meadows, and the tilled fields of these
oases in the desert, rendered them conspicuous amidst
the blackened stumps, piled logs, and smooty fallows
of an active and bustling settlement. At even
a much later day, they were to be distinguished by
the smoother surfaces of their fields, the greater
growth and more bountiful yield of their orchards,
and by the general appearance of a more finished civilization,
and of greater age. Here and there, a hamlet had
sprung up; and isolated places, like Cherry Valley
and Wyoming, were found, that have since become known
to the general history of the country.
Our present tale now leads us to the
description of one of those early, personal, or family
settlements, that had grown up, in what was then a
very remote part of the territory in question, under
the care and supervision of an ancient officer of
the name of Willoughby. Captain Willoughby, after
serving many years, had married an American wife, and
continuing his services until a son and daughter were
born, he sold his commission, procured a grant of
land, and determined to retire to his new possessions,
in order to pass the close of his life in the tranquil
pursuits of agriculture, and in the bosom of his family.
An adopted child was also added to his cares.
Being an educated as well as a provident man, Captain
Willoughby had set about the execution of this scheme
with deliberation, prudence, and intelligence.
On the frontiers, or lines, as it is the custom to
term the American boundaries, he had become acquainted
with a Tuscarora, known by the English sobriquet
of “Saucy Nick.” This fellow, a sort
of half-outcast from his own people, had early attached
himself to the whites, had acquired their language,
and owing to a singular mixture of good and bad qualities,
blended with great native shrewdness, he had wormed
himself into the confidence of several commanders
of small garrisons, among whom was our captain.
No sooner was the mind of the latter made up, concerning
his future course, than he sent for Nick, who was then
in the fort; when the following conversation took
place:
“Nick,” commenced the
captain, passing his hand over his brow, as was his
wont when in a reflecting mood; “Nick, I have
an important movement in view, in which you can be
of some service to me.”
The Tuscarora, fastening his dark
basilisk-like eyes on the soldier, gazed a moment,
as if to read his soul; then he jerked a thumb backward,
over his own shoulder, and said, with a grave smile
“Nick understand. Want
six, two, scalp off Frenchman’s head; wife and
child; out yonder, over dere, up in Canada. Nick
do him what you give?”
“No, you red rascal, I want
nothing of the sort it is peace now, (this
conversation took place in 1764), and you know I never
bought a scalp, in time of war. Let me hear no
more of this.”
“What you want, den?”
asked Nick, like one who was a good deal puzzled.
“I want land good
land little, but good. I am
about to get a grant a patent ”
“Yes,” interrupted Nick,
nodding; “I know him paper
to take away Indian’s hunting-ground.”
“Why, I have no wish to do that I
am willing to pay the red men reasonably for their
right, first.”
“Buy Nick’s land, den better
dan any oder.”
“Your land, knave! You
own no land belong to no tribe have
no rights to sell.”
“What for ask Nick help, den?”
“What for? Why because
you know a good deal, though you own literally
nothing. That’s what for.”
“Buy Nick know, den.
Better dan he great fader know, down at
York.”
“That is just what I do wish
to purchase. I will pay you well, Nick, if you
will start to-morrow, with your rifle and a pocket-compass,
off here towards the head-waters of the Susquehannah
and Delaware, where the streams run rapidly, and where
there are no fevers, and bring me an account of three
or four thousand acres of rich bottom-land, in such
a way as a surveyor can find it, and I can get a patent
for it. What say you, Nick; will you go?”
“He not wanted. Nick sell
’e captain, his own land: here in ’e
fort.”
“Knave, do you not know me well
enough not to trifle, when I am serious?”
“Nick ser’ous too Moravian
priest no ser’ouser more dan Nick at dis
moment. Got land to sell.”
Captain Willoughby had found occasion
to punish the Tuscarora, in the course of his services;
and as the parties understood each other perfectly
well, the former saw the improbability of the latter’s
daring to trifle with him.
“Where is this land of yours,
Nick,” he inquired, after studying the Indian’s
countenance for a moment. “Where does it
lie, what is it like, how much is there of it, and
how came you to own it?”
“Ask him just so, ag’in,”
said Nick, taking up four twigs, to note down the
questions, seriatim.
The captain repeated his inquiries,
the Tuscarora laying down a stick at each separate
interrogatory.
“Where he be?” answered
Nick, taking up a twig, as a memorandum. “He
out dere where he want him where
he say. One day’s march from Susquehanna.”
“Well; proceed.”
“What he like? Like
land, to be sure. T’ink he like water!
Got some water no too much got
some land got no tree got some
tree. Got good sugar-bush got place
for wheat and corn.”
“Proceed.”
“How much of him?” continued
Nick, taking up another twig; “much as he want want
little, got him want more, got him.
Want none at all, got none at all got what
he want.”
“Go on.”
“To be sure. How came to
own him? How a pale face come to own America?
Discover him ha! Well,
Nick discover land down yonder, up dere, over here.”
“Nick, what the devil do you mean by all this?”
“No mean devil, at all mean
land good land. Discover
him know where he is catch beaver
dere, three, two year. All Nick say, true as
word of honour; much more too.”
“Do you mean it is an old beaver-dam
destroyed?” asked the captain, pricking up his
ears; for he was too familiar with the woods, not to
understand the value of such a thing.
“No destroy stand
up yet good as ever. Nick dere,
last season.”
“Why, then, do you tell of it?
Are not the beaver of more value to you, than any
price you may receive for the land?”
“Cotch him all, four, two year
ago rest run away. No find beaver to
stay long, when Indian once know, two time, where to
set he trap. Beaver cunninger ’an pale
face cunning as bear.”
“I begin to comprehend you,
Nick. How large do you suppose this pond to be?”
“He ’m not as big as Lake
Ontario. S’pose him smaller, what den?
Big enough for farm.”
“Does it cover one or two hundred
acres, think you? Is it as large as the
clearing around the fort?”
“Big as two, six, four of him.
Take forty skin, dere one season. Little lake;
all ’e tree gone.”
“And the land around it is
it mountainous and rough, or will it be good for corn?”
“All sugar-bush what
you want better? S’pose you want corn;
plant him. S’pose you want sugar;
make him.”
Captain Willoughby was struck with
this description, and he returned to the subject,
again and again. At length, after extracting all
the information he could get from Nick, he struck
a bargain with the fellow. A surveyor was engaged,
and he started for the place, under the guidance of
the Tuscarora. The result showed that Nick had
not exaggerated. The pond was found, as he had
described it to be, covering at least four hundred
acres of low bottom-land; while near three thousand
acres of higher river-flat, covered with beach and
maple, spread around it for a considerable distance.
The adjacent mountains too, were arable, though bold,
and promised, in time, to become a fertile and manageable
district. Calculating his distances with judgment,
the surveyor laid out his metes and bounds in such
a manner as to include the pond, all the low-land,
and about three thousand acres of hill, or mountain,
making the materials for a very pretty little “patent”
of somewhat more than six thousand acres of capital
land. He then collected a few chiefs of the nearest
tribe, dealt out his rum, tobacco, blankets, wampum,
and gunpowder, got twelve Indians to make their marks
on a bit of deer-skin, and returned to his employer
with a map, a field-book, and a deed, by which the
Indian title was “extinguished.”
The surveyor received his compensation, and set off
on a similar excursion, for a different employer,
and in another direction. Nick got his reward,
too, and was well satisfied with the transaction.
This he afterwards called “sellin’ beaver
when he all run away.”
Furnished with the necessary means,
Captain Willoughby now “sued out his patent,”
as it was termed, in due form. Having some influence,
the affair was soon arranged; the grant was made by
the governor in council, a massive seal was annexed
to a famous sheet of parchment, the signatures were
obtained, and “Willoughby’s Patent”
took its place on the records of the colony, as well
as on its maps. We are wrong as respects the
latter particular; it did not take its place,
on the maps of the colony, though it took a
place; the location given for many years afterwards,
being some forty or fifty miles too far west.
In this peculiarity there was nothing novel, the surveys
of all new regions being liable to similar trifling
mistakes. Thus it was, that an estate, lying
within five-and-twenty miles of the city of New York,
and in which we happen to have a small interest at
this hour, was clipped of its fair proportions, in
consequence of losing some miles that run over obtrusively
into another colony; and, within a short distance
of the spot where we are writing, a “patent”
has been squeezed entirely out of existence, between
the claims of two older grants.
No such calamity befell “Willoughby’s
Patent,” however. The land was found, with
all its “marked or blazed trees,”
its “heaps of stones,” “large butternut
corners,” and “dead oaks.” In
a word, everything was as it should be; even to the
quality of the soil, the beaver-pond, and the quantity.
As respects the last, the colony never gave “struck
measure;” a thousand acres on paper, seldom falling
short of eleven or twelve hundred in soil. In
the present instance, the six thousand two hundred
and forty-six acres of “Willoughby’s Patent,”
were subsequently ascertained to contain just seven
thousand and ninety-two acres of solid ground.
Our limits and plan will not permit
us to give more than a sketch of the proceedings of
the captain, in taking possession; though we feel
certain that a minute account of the progress of such
a settlement would possess a sort of Robinson Crusoe-like
interest, that might repay the reader. As usual,
the adventurers commenced their operations in the
spring. Mrs. Willoughby, and the children, were
left with their friends, in Albany; while the captain
and his party pioneered their way to the patent, in
the best manner they could. This party consisted
of Nick, who went in the capacity of hunter, an office
of a good deal of dignity, and of the last importance,
to a set of adventurers on an expedition of this nature.
Then there were eight axe-men, a house-carpenter,
a mason, and a mill-wright. These, with Captain
Willoughby, and an invalid sergeant, of the name of
Joyce, composed the party.
Our adventurers made most of their
journey by water. After finding their way to
the head of the Canaideraga, mistaking it for the Otsego,
they felled trees, hollowed them into canoes, embarked,
and, aided by a yoke of oxen that were driven along
the shore, they wormed their way, through the Oaks,
into the Susquehanna, descending that river until
they reached the Unadilla, which stream they ascended
until they came to the small river, known in the parlance
of the country, by the erroneous name of a creek,
that ran through the captain’s new estate.
The labour of this ascent was exceedingly severe; but
the whole journey was completed by the end of April,
and while the streams were high. Snow still lay
in the woods; but the sap had started, and the season
was beginning to show its promise.
The first measure adopted by our adventurers
was to “hut.” In the very centre
of the pond, which, it will be remembered, covered
four hundred acres, was an island of some five or
six acres in extent. It was a rocky knoll, that
rose forty feet above the surface of the water, and
was still crowned with noble pines, a species of tree
that had escaped the ravages of the beaver. In
the pond, itself, a few “stubs” alone
remained, the water having killed the trees, which
had fallen and decayed. This circumstance showed
that the stream had long before been dammed; successions
of families of beavers having probably occupied the
place, and renewed the works, for centuries, at intervals
of generations. The dam in existence, however,
was not very old; the animals having fled from their
great enemy, man, rather than from any other foe.
To the island Captain Willoughby transferred
all his stores, and here he built his hut. This
was opposed to the notions of his axe-men, who, rightly
enough, fancied the mainland would be more convenient;
but the captain and the sergeant, after a council
of war, decided that the position on the knoll would
be the most military, and might be defended the longest,
against man or beast. Another station was taken
up, however, on the nearest shore, where such of the
men were permitted to “hut,” as preferred
the location.
These preliminaries observed, the
captain meditated a bold stroke against the wilderness,
by draining the pond, and coming at once into the
possession of a noble farm, cleared of trees and stumps,
as it might be by a coup de main. This
would be compressing the results of ordinary years
of toil, into those of a single season, and everybody
was agreed as to the expediency of the course, provided
it were feasible.
The feasibility was soon ascertained.
The stream which ran through the valley, was far from
swift, until it reached a pass where the hills approached
each other in low promontories; there the land fell
rapidly away to what might be termed a lower terrace.
Across this gorge, or defile, a distance of about
five hundred feet, the dam had been thrown, a good
deal aided by the position of some rocks that here
rose to the surface, and through which the little
river found its passage. The part which might
be termed the key-stone of the dam, was only twenty
yards wide, and immediately below it, the rocks fell
away rapidly, quite sixty feet, carrying down the
waste water in a sort of fall. Here the mill-wright
announced his determination to commence operations
at once, putting in a protest against destroying the
works of the beavers. A pond of four hundred
acres being too great a luxury for the region, the
man was overruled, and the labour commenced.
The first blow was struck against
the dam about nine o’clock, on the 2d day of
May, 1765, and, by evening, the little sylvan-looking
lake, which had lain embedded in the forest, glittering
in the morning sun, unruffled by a breath of air,
had entirely disappeared! In its place, there
remained an open expanse of wet mud, thickly covered
with pools and the remains of beaver-houses, with
a small river winding its way slowly through the slime.
The change to the eye was melancholy indeed; though
the prospect was cheering to the agriculturist.
No sooner did the water obtain a little passage, than
it began to clear the way for itself, gushing out
in a torrent, through the pass already mentioned.
The following morning, Captain Willoughby
almost mourned over the works of his hands. The
scene was so very different from that it had presented
when the flats were covered with water, that it was
impossible not to feel the change. For quite a
month, it had an influence on the whole party.
Nick, in particular, denounced it, as unwise and uncalled
for, though he had made his price out of the very
circumstance in prospective; and even Sergeant Joyce
was compelled to admit that the knoll, an island no
longer, had lost quite half its security as a military
position. The next month, however, brought other
changes. Half the pools had vanished by drainings
and evaporation; the mud had begun to crack, and,
in some places to pulverize; while the upper margin
of the old pond had become sufficiently firm to permit
the oxen to walk over it, without miring. Fences
of trees, brush, and even rails, enclosed, on this
portion of the flats, quite fifty acres of land; and
Indian corn, oats, pumpkins, peas, potatoes, flax,
and several other sorts of seed, were already in the
ground. The spring proved dry, and the sun of
the forty-third degree of latitude was doing its work,
with great power and beneficence. What was of
nearly equal importance, the age of the pond had prevented
any recent accumulation of vegetable matter, and consequently
spared those who laboured around the spot, the impurities
of atmosphere usually consequent on its decay.
Grass-seed, too, had been liberally scattered on favourable
places, and things began to assume the appearance
of what is termed “living.”
August presented a still different
picture. A saw-mill was up, and had been at work
for some time. Piles of green boards began to
make their appearance, and the plane of the carpenter
was already in motion. Captain Willoughby was
rich, in a small way; in other words, he possessed
a few thousand pounds besides his land, and had yet
to receive the price of his commission. A portion
of these means were employed judiciously to advance
his establishment; and, satisfied that there would
be no scarcity of fodder for the ensuing winter, a
man had been sent into the settlements for another
yoke of cattle, and a couple of cows. Farming
utensils were manufactured on the spot, and sleds
began to take the place of carts; the latter exceeding
the skill of any of the workmen present.
October offered its products as a
reward for all this toil. The yield was enormous,
and of excellent quality. Of Indian corn, the
captain gathered several hundred bushels, besides
stacks of stalks and tops. His turnips, too,
were superabundant in quantity, and of a delicacy and
flavour entirely unknown to the precincts of old lands.
The potatoes had not done so well; to own the truth,
they were a little watery, though there were enough
of them to winter every hoof he had, of themselves.
Then the peas and garden truck were both good and plenty;
and a few pigs having been procured, there was the
certainty of enjoying a plenty of that important article,
pork, during the coming winter.
Late in the autumn, the captain rejoined
his family in Albany, quitting the field for winter
quarters. He left sergeant Joyce, in garrison,
supported by Nick, a miller, the mason, carpenter,
and three of the axe-men. Their duty was to prepare
materials for the approaching season, to take care
of the stock, to put in winter crops, to make a few
bridges, clear out a road or two, haul wood to keep
themselves from freezing, to build a log barn and
some sheds, and otherwise to advance the interests
of the settlement. They were also to commence
a house for the patentee.
As his children were at school, captain
Willoughby determined not to take his family immediately
to the Hutted Knoll, as the place soon came to be
called, from the circumstance of the original bivouack.
This name was conferred by sergeant Joyce, who had
a taste in that way, and as it got to be confirmed
by the condescension of the proprietor and his family,
we have chosen it to designate our present labours.
From time to time, a messenger arrived with news from
the place; and twice, in the course of the winter,
the same individual went back with supplies, and encouraging
messages to the different persons left in the clearing.
As spring approached, however, the captain began to
make his preparations for the coming campaign, in
which he was to be accompanied by his wife; Mrs. Willoughby,
a mild, affectionate, true-hearted New York woman,
having decided not to let her husband pass another
summer in that solitude without feeling the cheering
influence of her presence.
In March, before the snow began to
melt, several sleigh-loads of different necessaries
were sent up the valley of the Mohawk, to a point
opposite the head of the Otsego, where a thriving village
called Fortplain now stands. Thence men were
employed in transporting the articles, partly by means
of “jumpers” improvised for the
occasion, and partly on pack-horses, to the lake, which
was found this time, instead of its neighbour the
Canaderaiga. This necessary and laborious service
occupied six weeks, the captain having been up as far
as the lake once himself; returning to Albany, however,
ere the snow was gone.