Face and Produce of the Empire,
natural and artificial.
Mequinez.
The mountains (the principal of which
are Mount Diur, Mount Cotta, near the city of Larache,
the mountain commonly called Ape’s Hill,
between Tangiers and Ceuta, and that remarkable ridge
called Mount Atlas) contain mines of gold, silver,
copper, and tin.
The chief capes or promontories of
these states are, Cape Cottes or Ampelusia,
known to our seafaring people by the name of Cape Spartel,
the Promontorium Herculis, and the Promontorium
Oleastrum, so called from the prodigious number
of wild olives growing upon it.
All the bays round the coast furnish
an abundance of the most delicious fish of every kind;
and the several rivers are equally productive.
The occasional overflow of the rivers greatly enriches
and fertilizes the soil, to which, more than to their
own industry (for they never manure their grounds,
and are absolute strangers to the art of husbandry),
are the Moors indebted for their plentiful crops of
wheat, Turkey corn, rye, rice, oats, barley, and grain
of all kinds.
I have before told you that this country
abounds in fine fruits. The most esteemed are,
oranges, grapes, pomegranates, lemons, citrons,
figs, almonds, and dates. The Moors also grow
great quantities of excellent hemp and flax.
Medicinal herbs and roots are very plentiful here.
Vegetables of every kind, and melons, cucumbers, &c.
thrive exceedingly well. The grass grows spontaneously
to an amazing height, and in consequence of the fine
pasturage the animals are very prolific, cows and
mares producing two at a birth, and the sheep frequently
four lambs in the year.
Among the botanical herbs, plants,
and roots, are the colocynth, palma Christi, wild
and meadow saffron, the great mountain garlic, mountain
satyrion, senna, rhubarb, bastard rhubarb, balsam apple,
horned poppy, wild succory, recabilia peruviana, ipecacuanha,
wild turnip, wild radish, field mustard, Indian cress,
dandelion, black winter cherry, wild lily, hyacinth,
violet, narcissus, wild rose, camomile, tulips, and
the fleur de lis, equal to that of Florence;
with a variety of others too numerous to describe.
The domestic animals of these states
are, the horse, ass, mule, rumrah (a beast of burden
in the mountainous parts), camel, dromedary, antelope,
cow, dog, sheep, and large goat. The beasts of
prey are, lions, tigers, leopards, hyenas, and wolves.
The apes are innumerable. Deer, wild boars, hares,
rabbits, ferrets, weazels, moles, and camelions, are
also found in great numbers. Horses and cattle
of all kinds are sold at very low prices.
Among the feathered tribe most common
here, are, very large eagles, hawks, partridges, quails,
wild pigeons, and wild fowl of every kind, turtle-doves,
and a variety of small birds; among which the capsa
sparrow is remarkable for the elegance of its plumage
and the sweetness of its notes, in which it excels
every other bird: this beautiful little creature
cannot live out of its native country. I had
almost forgotten to mention the storks and cranes,
which are seen here in great numbers, and so extremely
tame, from being perfectly unmolested, that they build
their nests and rear their young in the very centre
of the towns and villages, and on the tops of the towers
of their mosques. Of the reptile kind, venomous
spiders, scorpions, vipers, and enormously large serpents,
are common in Barbary.
The greatest natural curiosities of
this country are the salt-pits (which in some places
are immensely large), and several hot springs, possessing
such a great degree of heat, that an egg being put
in for a short time will become quite hard. The
face of the country itself is a natural curiosity;
the vallies, which are several leagues in extent,
and the mountains, which reach as far as the deserts
of Suz, Tafilet, and Gessula, interspersed with forests
or corn-fields, and rich meadows, are remarkably curious.
The artificial curiosities are very
numerous, and claim the attention of all who may visit
this country. They ought properly to be divided
into two classes; in the first of which may be placed
the subterraneous cavern and passage near Tangiers;
the ruins of the amphitheatres, triumphal arches,
temples, &c. erected by the Carthaginians, Romans,
and Arabs, at Fez and the several other towns of Barbary.
The country is besides all over scattered with the
remains of ditches and ramparts, evidently designed
for the defence of camps, forts, and castles, no other
vestiges of which, however, can be found. Besides
these, I have observed a number of round towers, which
appear to have belonged, some to houses of religion,
and others to the palaces or residences of former
rulers in this country.
In the second class, we may place
the efforts of the architectural and mechanical genius
of the present inhabitants, exemplified in the wonderful
aqueducts at Morocco, which commence in Mount Atlas
(by the natives called Gibbel-el-Hadith), and
convey water in the greatest abundance to all the
houses of the city and its environs. Nor is the
wheel at Fez, which I mentioned in a former letter,
less worthy of remark; and several mausoleums in their
burial-places have been constructed in a very costly
style, the stucco of the walls being remarkably smooth
and beautiful, and as hard as marble; but these tombs
are exceptions to the general rule; for, as I have
before observed, the greater part are but rude buildings.
There are many other curiosities, which to describe
minutely would fill a volume.