The land of the Védas justly
boasts of being the mother, or the foster-mother,
of nine great religions.
It has given birth to the greatest
ethnic religion the world has seen; it is also the
motherland of one of the three great missionary faiths
of the world. These two religions Hinduism
and Buddhism count among their followers
more than a third of the human race, and are, in some
respects, as vigorous now as at any time in their history.
It is the foster-mother of Mohammedanism
and counts among her sons and daughters more of the
followers of the Prophet of Mecca than are found in
any other land.
It has also been the asylum of many
followers of the Nazarene for at least sixteen centuries;
many even claim that Christianity has found a home
here since apostolic days.
There is no land comparable with India
in the variegated expressions of its beliefs which
add picturesqueness to the country and diversity to
the people.
I purpose to take the reader with
me on a tour with a view to furnishing glimpses of
these religions at those places where they reveal
special interest to the tourist.
Hindu 207,147,026
Sikh 2,195,339
Jain 1,334,148
Buddhist 9,476,759
Parsee 94,190
Mohammedan 62,458,077
Jewish 18,228
Christian 2,923,241
These figures include Burma.]
India is a land of immense distances.
But its thirty thousand miles of railroad will enable
the traveller, within a couple of months, to scan
all its points of interest, and to feast his eyes upon
visions of Oriental charm and splendour, of architectural
beauty and grandeur, and of such monuments of religious
devotion as no other land can present to the traveller
and student.
Let not the Westerner indulge his
fears about the discomforts and dangers of travel
in this tropical land. To an English-speaking
tourist there are a few lands only which furnish more
conveniences and facilities for travel than this same
India; and travelling is cheaper here than in any
other country. Comfortable second-class travelling
rarely costs more than one cent a mile. And many,
like the writer, have travelled thousands of miles
in third-class compartments at less than half a cent
a mile, and without much other inconvenience than an
excess of dust and stiffened bones. The writer
has seen many globe-trotters pass through India of
whom few were not surprised at the relative comforts
of travel here during the winter months, and no other
time of the year should be chosen for travelling in
India.
It will be convenient to start upon
our tour from Madura, the missionary home of the writer.
It is a large, wide-awake centre of enthusiastic Hinduism
in the extreme south of the peninsula. In the
heart of this town, of more than a hundred thousand
people, stands its great temple, dedicated to Siva.
The principal monuments of South India are its temples.
They are the largest temples in the world. The
Madura temple is only the third in size; but in its
upkeep and architectural beauty it far surpasses the
other two, which are larger. It covers an area
of fifteen acres, and its many Gopuras, or
towers, furnish the landmark of the country for miles
around. It is erected almost entirely of granite
blocks, some of which are sixty feet long. Its
monolithic carving is exquisitely fine, as it is most
abundant and elaborate. Hinduism may be moribund;
but this temple gives only intimation of life and
prosperity as one gazes upon its elaborate ritual,
and sees the thousands passing daily into its shrine
for worship. It represents the highest form of
Hindu architecture, and, like almost all else that
is Hindu, its history carries us to the dim distance
of the past. But the great Tirumalai Nayak, the
king of two and a half centuries ago, spent more in
its elaboration than any one else. And it was
he who built, half a mile away, the great palace which,
though much reduced, still stands as the noblest edifice
of its kind south of a line drawn from Bombay to Calcutta.
In this same temple we find, transformed,
another cult. It is called the Temple of Meenatchi,
after its presiding goddess, “the Fish-eyed
One.” When Brahmanism reached Madura, many
centuries ago, Meenatchi was the principal demoness
worshipped by the people, who were all devil-worshippers.
As was their wont, the Brahmáns did not antagonize
the old faith of the people, but absorbed it by marrying
Meenatchi to their chief god Siva, and thus incorporated
the primitive devil-worship into the Brahmanical religion.
Thus the Hinduism of Madura and of all South India
is Brahmanism plus devil-worship. And
the people are to-day much more absorbed in pacifying
the devils which infest every village than they are
in worshipping purely Hindu deities.
The prevailing faith of the Dravidians,
therefore, is demonolatry; and the myriad shrines
in the villages and hamlets, and the daily rites conducted
in them, attest the universal prevalence of this belief
and the great place it has in the life of these so-called
Hindus.
A run of a hundred and fifty miles
directly south brings us to Cape Comorin, the southernmost
point of India. It is also the extreme south
of Travancore, “the Land of Charity,” and
one of the richest and most charming sections of India.
It is a Native State under the control of the Brahmáns.
It is unique in the large proportion
of Christians which are among its inhabitants.
Though the Christian community in India averages only
one per cent of the population, in the State of Travancore
it amounts to 25 per cent. It is here that we
find the ancient Syrian Church, with its three hundred
and fifty thousand souls. Though it calls itself
“the Thomasian, Apostolic Church,” and
though the Romish Church accepts the legend, modern
historians deny its apostolic origin, and claim that
it was founded no earlier than the third century.
Even thus, it furnishes an intensely interesting study.
The writer was deeply interested to see and enter
its two churches at Kottayam, both of which are at
least eight hundred years old.
Four centuries ago, Roman Catholicism
used all the resources of the Inquisition in order
to absorb this Church. They succeeded only too
well, and half of the Indian Syrian Church is now subject
to Rome. Nearly a century ago, the Church Missionary
Society of England lent a helping hand to the Syrian
Church, and has brought new life and progressive energy,
and a new spiritual power and ambition, into a portion
of that decrepit type of ancient Christianity.
Furthermore, a century of work given
by the London Missionary Society and the Church Missionary
Society has created a Protestant Christian community
of more than one hundred thousand souls in that little
kingdom alone.
We pass from Travancore into the little
State of Cochin, on the north. We are impressed
by the colossal Christian church in the town of Cochin,
in which, however, only a small handful of English
people worship every Sunday evening. It was erected
by the Portuguese four centuries ago, and is a charming
study. It is here, shortly after Vasco da
Gama had completed the first round-the-Cape journey,
that this house of God was erected by his followers.
Two centuries later, the Dutch came, conquered the
Portuguese, occupied their house of worship, and desecrated
their tombs. In that church to-day one can find
tombstones inscribed on one side by the Portuguese
to their departed friends, and, on the other side,
in Dutch, to commemorate departed Hollanders.
But the most interesting sight, by
far, in this quiet old Indian town, is the community
of white Jews who live on its southern side. No
one knows when they came here. They probably
arrived at the Dispersion of the first century of
our era; or it may be later. But the community
must have been reenforced from time to time, as they
have maintained, in a marvellous way, the fairness
of their complexion. It will not require much
imagination, as one enters their synagogue, to think
of the synagogue of Nazareth of old. As we ascend
the stair-way into the little schoolroom above, and
hear the little ones reciting, in pure Hebrew, passages
from the Pentateuch, we can easily imagine that we
are listening to the voice of a dear little Boy, nineteen
centuries ago, reciting to His master those same passages
in that same tongue in Palestine. There is hardly
a place on earth where Judaism has met with fewer
vicissitudes and changes than on this western coast
of India.
It is only a couple of hundred yards
farther away that we find the synagogue of the black
Jews the descendants of those who were given
by the ancient king to be slaves to the white Jews.
They adopted the religion of their masters, and are
still praying, like their masters, for the coming
of the Messiah, of whose arrival and triumphs in India
they seem to be oblivious.
Leaving Cochin, we pass along the
coast as far as Bombay, which has been called the
“Eye of India,” and also the “Gateway
of India,” two names which are equally appropriate
to this beautiful city. There is hardly another
city on earth where more races and religions blend.
And its streets are made exceedingly picturesque by
the many costumes of its polyglot population.
Before the arrival of the plague, some eight years
ago, Bombay was perhaps the most populous city in India.
But this fell scourge has decimated its population
and has robbed it of much of its ambition.
Perhaps the most interesting people
that we see here are the Parsees, with their “Towers
of Silence.” According to their belief,
earth is too sacred to be contaminated, and fire too
divine to be polluted, by the bodies of their dead,
which, therefore, they expose in the towers, erected
upon an adjacent hill, to be consumed by a crowd of
hungry, expectant vultures. One usually sees
forty or fifty of these filthy birds standing around
the edge of each tower, watching the funeral cortege
as it slowly winds its way up the hill, eager to pounce
upon the body as soon as exposed by the bearers in
the centre within. And from the time of exposure
it takes hardly ten minutes before every particle
of flesh has been consumed.
The one hundred thousand Parsees of
Bombay are almost the only representatives of the
ancient faith of Zoroaster, perhaps the purest of
all ethnic religions. They were driven out of
their home land of Persia in the early onrush of Mohammedan
fury, and fled, twelve centuries ago, to India, where
they found asylum.
The Parsees have the distinction of
being the most advanced people of India, alike in
wealth and philanthropy, in their treatment of woman,
and in education and general culture. Their influence
throughout the land is far beyond their numbers.
And yet they are so narrow in their conception of
their faith, that they declined, the other day, to
receive into their fold the English bride of one of
their number. Thus they decided that there is
no door of entrance into their religion for any one
who is not a born Parsee.
It is in this city, also, that we
find a large representation of another ancient cult Jainism.
Jainism is closely kin to Buddhism.
It represents the same type of reaction from a debased
Brahmanism. As its name indicates, it is a cult
for the worship of “The Victorious Ones,”
that is, men who by self-discipline have triumphed
over their passions and have attained perfection.
Buddhism succumbed to, and was absorbed by, a new militant
Brahmanism, which we call Hinduism. Jainism, on
the other hand, has maintained itself as a distinct
faith and now has 1,334,148 followers. Like Buddhism,
it is an agnostic religion, knowing no object of worship
save the seventy-two Victorious Ones.
One of the leading characteristics
of Jainism is its love of life, even in its lowest
manifestation. Their devotion to this article
of their faith is carried to such an extent that the
devout will sweep the road lest they step upon insects,
and cover their mouth with gauze cloth lest they swallow
and destroy minute forms of life. In the city
of Bombay, Jaïns have a hospital for animals,
for the maintenance of which they spend large sums
of money annually. Maimed cattle, stray dogs
and cats, and decrepit animals of all kinds are sought
and brought here for asylum and care. It is even
said, I cannot say with how much truth, that they
employ men to come and spend nights here with a view
to furnishing food for the many kinds of vermin which
infest the place.
In a sumptuous through train we now
pass rapidly over nearly one thousand miles of a country
which is intensely interesting, historically and ethnologically,
and finally arrive in the famous city of Agra, which
stands supreme among Indian cities as a centre of
architectural beauty. We have here come into a
distinctively Mohammedan region; and the edifices
which crown the city with glory are not only connected
with the Mohammedan faith, they are also the masterpieces
of the greatest minds of the Mogul Empire, and culminate
in the Taj Mahal, which is the most valued gem of Mohammedan
architecture, and, perhaps, the most beautiful edifice
in the world. We first turn our face toward the
Fort, which is one of the magnificent fortresses of
India. Two and a half centuries ago, Shah Jehan
was the ruling Mogul. He was not only one of the
greatest rulers of the dynasty; he had also a passion
for building, and was a man of rare taste as an architect.
The Agra Fort, whose stern walls of red sandstone
extend about a mile and a half, represents to us, at
present, not strength and protection, but an enclosure
within which the emperor built his great palace, which
is a marvel of beauty and of superb architectural
workmanship. The most attractive of the many
parts of this palace is the Pearl Mosque, which “owes
its charm to its perfect proportions, its harmony
of designs, and its beauty of material, rather than
to richness of decoration and ornament. In design
it is similar to most temples of this kind; a court-yard
with a fountain in the middle, surrounded on three
sides by arcaded cloisters; while on the entrance
side and that facing it are exquisitely chaste marble
screens.” “Into the fair body of the
India marble the Moguls could work designs and arabesques
borrowed from the Persia of ancient history, and flowers
of exquisite hue and symmetry suggested by the more
advanced and civilized Florentine artists, who were
tempted over by the well-filled coffers of Shah Jehan.”
As the Pearl Mosque was a part of the palace, it was
only used by the royal court. Days of pleasure
and improvement could be spent in the study of the
various parts which have been preserved of this ancient
palace. But we pass on a few miles to the Taj
Mahal, which, like most of the best buildings of Mohammedan
art in North India, is a mausoleum and was erected
by Shah Jehan to his favourite wife, Mumtaz-i-Mahal.
The Taj is erected in a beautiful garden, the gateway
into which is perhaps the finest in India and is “a
worthy pendant to the Taj itself.” The
garden is exquisitely laid out, with a view to setting
off the unspeakable charms of that “dream of
loveliness embodied in white marble.” The
Taj has well been described as a work “conceived
by Titans and finished by jewellers.” The
grandeur of the conception and the wonderful delicacy
of the workmanship cannot fail to impress even the
most unlearned in the architectural art. Much
has been written, and all in unstinted praise, of
this incomparable edifice; and yet, like the writer,
every visitor comes to its presence, feels the growing
thrill of its beauty, and exclaims, “The half
was never told!” And few leave the place without
returning to be enthralled once more by a moonlight
view of this thing of beauty. How great, indeed,
must have been the love of that otherwise cruel monarch
for his departed empress that he should have exhausted
so much of wealth (some say that the Taj cost thirty
million rupees) and conceived so much of beauty wherewith
to embalm her memory. And as we enter the mausoleum
and stand in the presence of the lovely shrines which
it encases, that of Mumtaz-i-Mahal, and
that of the emperor himself, the mind is
awed and may find expression in Sir Edwin Arnold’s
poetic fancy,
“Here
in the heart of all,
With chapels girdled, shut
apart by screens,
The shrine’s self stands,
white, delicately white,
White as the cheek of Mumtaz-i-Mahal,
When Shah Jehan let fall a
king’s tear there.
White as the breast her new
babe vainly pressed
That ill day in the camp at
Burhanpur,
The fair shrine stands, guarding
two cenotaphs.”
And upon a panel of his own shrine
the mourning emperor had inscribed these significant
words from ancient traditions: “Saith Jesus,
on whom peace be, this world is a bridge. Pass
thou over it, but build not upon. This world
is one hour; give its minutes to thy prayers, for the
rest is unseen.”
We cannot but feel that the Taj is
the highest expression of art that human affection
and domestic affliction have ever achieved. This
is not religion; but it is closely kin to it.
Not far from the Fort is found another
great mosque, or musjid, where the Mohammedans
crowd for worship. This, also, is a wonderful
specimen of art, and in its combination of simplicity
and beauty is well calculated to rouse to enthusiasm
the many worshippers of Allah.
About six miles away from Agra is
another specimen of architectural genius. It
is the tomb of Akbar the Great. Some believe it
to be almost equal to the Taj. It commemorates
with great beauty the noble name of that most distinguished
man of the whole Mogul dynasty, a man who
was famed for his breadth of view and sympathy, his
wise statesmanship, and religious tolerance.
He did more than any other to create sympathy between
Hindus and Mohammedans. It was in this mausoleum
that the famous Kohinor diamond found its place and
was exhibited for years. It is a striking fact
that this precious stone was undisturbed there, in
the open air, for over seventy years, until the Shah
of Persia, in 1739, invaded India and sacked the palace
of the Moguls, and, with other fabulous wealth, carried
this diamond also back to his own country.
Delhi is only a few hours’ ride
to the north from Agra. It is perhaps the most
interesting city in all India. From the earliest
times of Brahmanic legends down to the present, it
has been the centre of war and conflict, of royal
display, extravagance, and treachery. Here, again,
Mohammedanism has, from the first, exercised its power
and revealed its religious warmth and enthusiasm.
The Mohammedan mosques are equal to any in the land.
And though the Persian sacked the city a hundred and
seventy years ago, and robbed it of most that was
beautiful and valuable, there still remains a part
of what was probably the loveliest palace that was
ever erected. It reveals to us also “the
imperial grandeur of the Moguls, whose style of living
was probably more splendid than that of any monarchs
of any nation before or since that time. Their
extravagance was unbounded. Their love of display
has never been surpassed.” It is claimed
that the Peacock Throne of this Delhi Palace was of
sufficient value to pay the debts of a nation.
The marble walls are richly adorned with exquisite
mosaics. Indeed, they are regarded as incomparable
specimens of the art. One can pardon the builder
who engraved over the north and south entrances to
this palace of the Moguls the following lines:
“If there be a Paradise
on Earth,
It is This! It is This!
It is This!”
Eleven miles from the city are found
splendid ruins which are crowned by the celebrated
tower known as Kutab-minar, which is another of
the most ancient and interesting monuments of India.
Originally, this remarkable structure was a Hindu
temple, and was erected probably in the fourth century
of our era. But upon the invasion of the Mussulmans
the temple was converted into a Mohammedan mosque,
and the famous tower, which is 238 feet high, and
is one of the most beautifully erected in the world,
was allowed to stand. “The sculptures that
cover its surface have been compared to those upon
the column of Trajan in Rome and the Column Vendome
in Paris; but they are intended to relate the military
triumphs of the men in whose honour they were erected,
while the inscription on the Kutab-minar is a
continuous recognition of the power and glory of God
and of the virtues of Mohammed, his Prophet.”
It is in this city that one is impressed
most thoroughly with memorials of the great Mutiny
of half a century ago, where the British were so hard
pushed and suffered so terribly in those days of bitterness
which tried men’s souls. And there is no
memorial of this bitter struggle, to which the British
refer with so much of pride and glory, as they do
to the Cashmere gate, which they blew up and thereby
forced an entrance into the city, with a loss of much
precious blood.
But it was not the Mutiny nor the
massive and gorgeous emblems of Mohammedanism which
impressed the writer most in this city. It was
a vision just outside the walls of the city a
vision of great simplicity which thrilled
his heart a few years ago. It was a very unattractive
little ruined tower, from the centre of which rose
a polished granite pillar, some thirty or forty feet
high. It was inscribed from top to bottom, and
the inscription was quite legible. It spoke not
of the triumphs of war nor of the glory of human rule
and conquest. It is one of the most eloquent
testimonies to the nobility of the Buddhist faith.
It was carried here only a few centuries ago by an
enlightened Mohammedan monarch from the far-off plains
of the north. It is one of the celebrated “Asoka
Pillars.” Asoka was the emperor of twenty-two
centuries ago who wrought for Buddhism what Constantine
the Great, at a later day, wrought for Christianity.
He was converted to Buddhism and at once became the
devout propagator of that faith. As the great
emperor of his time, he exalted Buddhism and made
it the State religion of India. He not only sent
his missionaries all over the land; he decreed that
its principal teachings should be everywhere inscribed
upon rocks and upon pillars; and that these pillars
should be erected in public places for the instruction
of the people. This pillar in Delhi is one of
about a dozen already discovered and preserved in
North India. And it is, perhaps, the most fully
inscribed of all that have been found. And of
the fourteen Asokan edicts inscribed, most of them
inculcate a high morality, and some of them a noble
altruism. For instance, the first is a prohibition
of the slaughter of animals for food or sacrifice.
The second is the provision for medical aid for men
and animals, and for plantations and wells on the
roadside. The third is a command to observe every
fifth year as a year of mutual confession of sins,
of peace-making, and of humiliation. The ninth
is the inculcation of true happiness as found in virtue.
In all these inscribed edicts of that most tolerant
and cosmopolitan Buddhist emperor, we see nothing of
which Buddhism should be ashamed, and much of which
it may be proud, in the way of ethical injunction.
It is more than ten centuries since Buddhism, which
had been the common faith of India for a thousand
years, was absorbed into a new militant Hinduism and
ceased to exist as a separate faith in this land.
To-day, India proper has hardly half a million Buddhists.
And yet we behold these mute prophets of far-off days
scattered in many parts of the land, still pressing
their message, but vainly, indeed, upon a people of
unknown tongues. Buddha himself is now a part
of the Hindu Pantheon; and his principal teachings
have become an essential part of the faith which he
tried to overthrow. But these pillars stand for
Buddhism that was tolerant toward all save, perhaps,
the Brahmanism which it existed to overthrow.
From Delhi we pass on northward to
the beautiful city of Amritsar, which is comparatively
a modern town of one hundred and fifty thousand people.
In the heart of this town stands the far-famed Golden
Temple of the Sikhs, built by Ranjit Singh, “The
Lion of the Panjaub.” The temple is not
a large one, being only fifty-three feet square, and
is built in the centre of a water tank, called “The
Pool of Immortality.” The peculiar external
feature of the temple is that it is largely covered
with gold plate; hence its name. It is a beautiful
object to behold; and we are in haste to take off our
shoes, which are prohibited in the sacred precincts,
and to put on the shapeless holy slippers presented
to us! We enjoy perfect freedom in passing through
all parts of the temple, while devotees, under the
guidance of the priests, sing their songs of praise
with devout impartiality to their god and to their
bible.
The temple is the centre and inspiration
of the Sikh religion. The Sikhs are an interesting
people. They rallied round one of the multitude
of the Hindu religious reformers, named Nanak Shah,
who established this cult about the end of the fifteenth
century. It may be called an amalgam of Mohammedanism
and Hinduism. It unites the monotheism and the
stern morality of the former with much of the petty
ritual of the latter. It does not observe caste.
Still, in outer matters of observances, Sikhs are
not easily distinguishable from ordinary Hindus.
They, also, have bound themselves into a military
order, which gives them almost the distinction of a
nation. For this reason they are among the very
best material which the country furnishes for the
native army, and are worthy to stand shoulder to shoulder
with European soldiers.
This religion is peculiarly a book
religion. It has degenerated into a species of
bibliolatry. Their bible contains the teachings
and sermons of the founder of the faith; and it presents
the highest standard of morality and courage, and
appeals with special power to this sturdy tribe of
the north. This book is called “Granth,”
and is generally spoken of as “Granth Sahib,”
which we may translate as “Mr. Book”!
That is, they give it a dignity and a personality which
is unique in any faith; and the Golden Temple is largely
used as the receptacle of the “Granth,”
of which they keep a few copies protected by covers,
which, however, they remove in order to show them to
us as we pass by.
In several particulars this faith
is unique. They have no idols or altars, but
meet once a week for prayer and praise. Their
preacher reads passages from the “Granth”
and prays to their god, who may be reached through
the intercession of Nanak Shah, his prophet and their
redeemer. They sing hymns similar to those used
in Protestant worship, and celebrate communion by
partaking of wafers of unleavened bread. Their
congregation do not object to the presence of strangers,
but usually invite them to participate in the worship.
There are about two and a quarter million Sikhs in
the Province of the Panjaub, the land of
the “five rivers.”
While in this city, one is tempted
to look at the Khalsa College, one of the institutions
established by government in different parts of the
land for the suitable training of native princes.
Here one may find young Sikh nobles and wealthy landlords,
to the number of five hundred, being qualified for
the high responsibilities which are before them.
We hurry back from the north in a
southeastern direction over a distance of eight hundred
miles and reach the city of Benares, on the river
Ganges. There is hardly a river in the world which
produces more fertility and which brings sustenance
to more people than the divine Ganges. The river
is not only deified, but is regarded as one of the
most potent deities of India.
From time immemorial, Benares, or
“Kasi,” which is built upon the banks
of the Ganges, has partaken of the sanctity of the
river, and is regarded by devout Hindus as the most
sacred spot in the world. To die within the radius
of ten miles from its centre is sure and eternal bliss,
even to the outcast and the defiling white man!
Many thousands are brought annually from all parts
of the land to die at this sacred place, and have
their ashes scattered upon the waters of the holy
river. Many thousands of others who die in all
parts of the land have their bodies burned and their
ashes brought, by loving relatives upon pilgrimage,
to this city to be sprinkled upon the tides of the
Ganges, which insures eternal rest to the departed
souls.
What Mecca is to Mohammedans, more
than Jerusalem is to Jews, is Benares to devout Hindus.
It has more temples and shrines than any other equal
area in the world. Its priests, who are called
Gangaputhira ("the Sons of the Ganges"), are
legion. They have their emissaries at principal
railway stations for hundreds of miles from the city,
always on the lookout for pilgrims, and gathering up
pilgrim bands to lead them on with ever increasing
numbers to their temples. The idols of this city
are legion.
But there is nothing here which impresses
one more than its squalid filth, and the abject degradation
of the people which crowd its streets. The temples
are extremely dirty. There is not one of imposing
size or of decent attractiveness. There stands
the monkey-temple, where scores of mangy, tricky brutes
are daily sumptuously fed by devout pilgrims.
On one side of the precinct a clever butcher-priest
severs with one stroke the heads of goats which are
brought for sacrifice to the thirsty deity. As
in Madura, so in Benares, the great god of the Hindu
is Siva. But the character of the worship which
is rendered to him and to others of his cult is far
from ennobling when not actually revolting. And
the phallic emblem of this god is everywhere found
in his temples and is suggestive of definite evils
connected with his worship.
The saddest and most grewsome of all
objects which impress one in this centre of Hinduism
is its burning Ghaut. To the side of the river
many bodies are brought daily, each wrapped in a white
cloth, and are deposited just where they are half
covered by the water. Within ten feet of this
place we see parties of pilgrims bathing in and drinking
of the sacred water of the river, utterly regardless
of the proximity of corpses above stream! From
time to time corpses are picked out of the water and
placed upon piles of wood near by. Each pile is
ignited and the body reduced to ashes. These
ashes are carefully collected, later on, and sprinkled,
with appropriate ceremonies, on the face of the river.
Day after day, and year after year, this ceaseless
procession of the dead takes place, while up stream
and down stream the bank of the river is covered with
men and women who fatally believe that by bathing
in this dirty stream they are washing away their sins
and preparing themselves for final absorption and eternal
rest in Brahm!
Benares reminded the writer of Rome.
He never realized the degradation possible to Christianity
until he visited “The Eternal City,” with
its huge shams and ghastly superstitions. He
never saw Hinduism with its myriad inane rites and
debasing idolatry half so grotesque, idiotic, and
repulsive, as in this city of Benares, where one ought
to see the religion of these two hundred odd million
people at its best, and not at its worst.
It is a positive relief to go out
of the city, a distance of four miles, to Sarnath,
where the great Buddha “The Enlightened
One” spent many long years in establishing
his faith and in inculcating his “Doctrine of
the Wheel.” It is a beautiful drive to
the birthplace of one of the greatest world faiths.
Very little but ruins meets the inquiring gaze of
the visitor. Some of these, however, are very
impressive, especially the great stupa, or tower.
It now stands a hundred and ten feet high and ninety-three
feet in diameter. It was very substantially built,
the lower part faced by immense blocks of stones which
were clamped together with iron. And this facing
was covered with elaborate inscriptions. The upper
part was built of brick. At the foot of this
striking ruin, built in the remote past as a monument
to an ancient faith, devout Buddhists from all parts
of the world come for worship and meditation upon the
vanity of life. The day before the writer arrived,
the Lama of Tibet spent here a few hours worshipping
and seeking the blessing of the “Enlightened
One.” Near by, government is making a series
of excavations and is discovering very interesting
relics connected with this ancient monastery founded
by the Buddha. Already a beautiful specimen of
an Asoka pillar and a variety of interesting sculptures
have rewarded their industry. One can imagine
no place more dear to the contemplative Buddhist than
this centre of the activities of his great Master,
where he spent many of the best years of his life in
expounding the teachings of his new cult, and in leading
many souls toward the light for which he had struggled
with so much of heroic self-denial, and which had
ultimately dawned upon him under the sacred Boh tree
at Buddha Gaya.
In this extended pilgrimage, during
which we have sought ancient and modern expressions
of the many faiths which have dominated, or which
now dominate, the people of this land, we have come
into touch not only with those tolerant faiths which
have found their origin here, or which have found
refuge and popularity in this peninsula, such
as Hinduism, Demonolatry, Buddhism, Jainism, Zorastrianism,
and Sikhism. We have also come into touch with
the three most intolerant faiths of the world, Christianity,
Mohammedanism, and Judaism. There is no land
where these three religions have suffered less of opposition
than in India. Indeed, it is not from persecution
and opposition that they have stood in most danger,
but from fraternal contact, growing appreciation,
and ultimate absorption. The Hindu mind, like
the Hindu faith, has a fatal facility for accepting,
semi-assimilating, and finally absorbing, all of religious
belief and conviction that may come into contact with
it. And this never necessarily involves the abandoning
of the old beliefs.