We were three minutes late in starting;
it is well to be precise. A special correspondent
who is not precise is a geometer who neglects to run
out his calculations to the tenth decimal. This
delay of three minutes made the German our traveling
companion. I have an idea that this good man
will furnish me with some copy, but it is only a presentiment.
It is still daylight at six o’clock
in the evening in this latitude. I have bought
a time-table and I consult it. The map which accompanies
it shows me station by station the course of the line
between Tiflis and Baku. Not to know the direction
taken by the engine, to be ignorant if the train is
going northeast or southeast, would be insupportable
to me, all the more as when night comes, I shall see
nothing, for I cannot see in the dark as if I were
an owl or a cat.
My time-table shows me that the railway
skirts for a little distance the carriage road between
Tiflis and the Caspian, running through Saganlong,
Poily, Elisabethpol, Karascal, Aliat, to Baku, along
the valley of the Koura. We cannot tolerate a
railway which winds about; it must keep to a straight
line as much as possible. And that is what the
Transgeorgian does.
Among the stations there is one I
would have gladly stopped at if I had had time, Elisabethpol.
Before I received the telegram from the Twentieth
Century, I had intended to stay there a week.
I had read such attractive descriptions of it, and
I had but a five minutes’ stop there, and that
between two and three o’clock in the morning!
Instead of a town resplendent in the rays of the sun,
I could only obtain a view of a vague mass confusedly
discoverable in the pale beams of the moon!
Having ended my careful examination
of the time-table, I began to examine my traveling
companions. There were four of us, and I need
scarcely say that we occupied the four corners of the
compartment. I had taken the farthest corner
facing the engine. At the two opposite angles
two travelers were seated facing each other. As
soon as they got in they had pulled their caps down
on their eyes and wrapped themselves up in their cloaks evidently
they were Georgians as far as I could see. But
they belonged to that special and privileged race who
sleep on the railway, and they did not wake up until
we reached Baku. There was nothing to be got
out of those people; the carriage is not a carriage
for them, it is a bed.
In front of me was quite a different
type with nothing of the Oriental about it; thirty-two
to thirty-five years old, face with a reddish beard,
very much alive in look, nose like that of a dog standing
at point, mouth only too glad to talk, hands free
and easy, ready for a shake with anybody; a tall,
vigorous, broad-shouldered, powerful man. By
the way in which he settled himself and put down his
bag, and unrolled his traveling rug of bright-hued
tartan, I had recognized the Anglo-Saxon traveler,
more accustomed to long journeys by land and sea than
to the comforts of his home, if he had a home.
He looked like a commercial traveler. I noticed
that his jewelry was in profusion; rings on his fingers,
pin in his scarf, studs on his cuffs, with photographic
views in them, showy trinkets hanging from the watch-chain
across his waistcoat. Although he had no earrings
and did not wear a ring at his nose I should not have
been surprised if he turned out to be an American probably
a Yankee.
That is my business. To find
out who are my traveling companions, whence they come,
where they go, is that not the duty of a special correspondent
in search of interviews? I will begin with my
neighbor in front of me. That will not be difficult,
I imagine. He is not dreaming or sleeping, or
looking out on the landscape lighted by the last rays
of the sun. If I am not mistaken he will be just
as glad to speak to me as I am to speak to him and
reciprocally.
I will see. But a fear restrains
me. Suppose this American and I am
sure he is one should also be a special,
perhaps for the World or the New York Herald,
and suppose he has also been ordered off to do this
Grand Asiatic. That would be most annoying!
He would be a rival!
My hesitation is prolonged. Shall
I speak, shall I not speak? Already night has
begun to fall. At last I was about to open my
mouth when my companion prevented me.
“You are a Frenchman?” he said in my native
tongue.
“Yes, sir,” I replied in his.
Evidently we could understand each other.
The ice was broken, and then question
followed on question rather rapidly between us.
You know the Oriental proverb:
“A fool asks more questions in an hour than
a wise man in a year.”
But as neither my companion nor myself
had any pretensions to wisdom we asked away merrily.
“Wait a bit,” said my American.
I italicize this phrase because it
will recur frequently, like the pull of the rope which
gives the impetus to the swing.
“Wait a bit! I’ll
lay ten to one that you are a reporter!”
“And you would win! Yes.
I am a reporter sent by the Twentieth Century
to do this journey.”
“Going all the way to Pekin?”
“To Pekin.”
“So am I,” replied the Yankee.
And that was what I was afraid of.
“Same trade?” said I indifferently.
“No. You need not excite yourself.
We don’t sell the same stuff, sir.”
“Claudius Bombarnac, of Bordeaux,
is delighted to be on the same road as ”
“Fulk Ephrinell, of the firm
of Strong, Bulbul & Co., of New York City, New York,
U.S.A.”
And he really added U.S.A.
We were mutually introduced.
I a traveler in news, and he a traveler in In
what? That I had to find out.
The conversation continues. Ephrinell,
as may be supposed, has been everywhere and
even farther, as he observes. He knows both Americas
and almost all Europe. But this is the first time
he has set foot in Asia. He talks and talks,
and always jerks in Wait a bit, with inexhaustible
loquacity. Has the Hunson the same properties
as the Garonne?
I listen to him for two hours.
I have hardly heard the names of the stations yelled
out at each stop, Saganlong, Poily, and the others.
And I really should have liked to examine the landscape
in the soft light of the moon, and made a few notes
on the road.
Fortunately my fellow traveler had
already crossed these eastern parts of Georgia.
He pointed out the spots of interest, the villages,
the watercourses, the mountains on the horizon.
But I hardly saw them. Confound these railways!
You start, you arrive, and you have seen nothing on
the road!
“No!” I exclaim, “there
is none of the charm about it as there is in traveling
by post, in troika, tarantass, with the surprises of
the road, the originality of the inns, the confusion
when you change horses, the glass of vodka of the
yemtchiks and occasionally the meeting
with those honest brigands whose race is nearly extinct.”
“Mr. Bombarnac,” said
Ephrinell to me, “are you serious in regretting
all those fine things?”
“Quite serious,” I reply.
“With the advantages of the straight line of
railway we lose the picturesqueness of the curved line,
or the broken line of the highways of the past.
And, Monsieur Ephrinell, when you read of traveling
in Transcaucasia forty years ago, do you not regret
it? Shall I see one of those villages inhabited
by Cossacks who are soldiers and farmers at one and
the same time? Shall I be present at one of those
merry-makings which charm the tourist? those djiquitovkas
with the men upright on their horses, throwing their
swords, discharging their pistols, and escorting you
if you are in the company of some high functionary,
or a colonel of the Staniza.”
“Undoubtedly we have lost all
those fine things,” replies my Yankee.
“But, thanks to these iron ribbons which will
eventually encircle our globe like a hogshead of cider
or a bale of cotton, we can go in thirteen days from
Tiflis to Pekin. That is why, if you expect any
incidents, to enliven you ”
“Certainly, Monsieur Ephrinell.”
“Illusions, Mr. Bombarnac!
Nothing will happen either to you or me. Wait
a bit, I promise you a journey, the most prosaic, the
most homely, the flattest flat as the steppes
of Kara Koum, which the Grand Transasiatic traverses
in Turkestan, and the plains of the desert of Gobi
it crosses in China ”
“Well, we shall see, for I travel
for the pleasure of my readers.”
“And I travel merely for my own business.”
And at this reply the idea recurred
to me that Ephrinell would not be quite the traveling
companion I had dreamed of. He had goods to sell,
I had none to buy. I foresaw that our meeting
would not lead to a sufficient intimacy during our
long journey. He was one of those Yankees who,
as they say, hold a dollar between their teeth, which
it is impossible to get away from them, and I should
get nothing out of him that was worth having.
And although I knew that he traveled
for Strong, Bulbul & Co., of New York, I had never
heard of the firm. To listen to their representative,
it would appear that Strong, Bulbul & Co. ought to
be known throughout the world.
But then, how was it that they were
unknown to me, a pupil of Chincholle, our master in
everything! I was quite at a loss because I had
never heard of the firm of Strong, Bulbul & Co.
I was about to interrogate Ephrinell
on this point, when he said to me:
“Have you ever been in the United States, Mr.
Bombarnac?”
“No, Monsieur Ephrinell.”
“You will come to our country some day?”
“Perhaps.”
“Then you will not forget to
explore the establishment of Strong, Bulbul & Co.?”
“Explore it?”
“That is the proper word.”
“Good! I shall not fail to do so.”
“You will see one of the most
remarkable industrial establishments of the New Continent.”
“I have no doubt of it; but how am I to know
it?”
“Wait a bit, Mr. Bombarnac.
Imagine a colossal workshop, immense buildings for
the mounting and adjusting of the pieces, a steam engine
of fifteen hundred horse-power, ventilators making
six hundred revolutions a minute, boilers consuming
a hundred tons of coals a day, a chimney stack four
hundred and fifty feet high, vast outhouses for the
storage of our goods, which we send to the five parts
of the world, a general manager, two sub-managers,
four secretaries, eight under-secretaries, a staff
of five hundred clerks and nine hundred workmen, a
whole regiment of travelers like your servant, working
in Europe, Asia, Africa, America, Australasia, in
short, a turnover exceeding annually one hundred million
dollars! And all that, Mr. Bombarnac, for making
millions of yes, I said millions ”
At this moment the train commenced
to slow under the action of its automatic brakes,
and he stopped.
“Elisabethpol! Elisabethpol!”
shout the guard and the porters on the station.
Our conversation is interrupted.
I lower the window on my side, and open the door,
being desirous of stretching my legs.
Ephrinell did not get out.
Here was I striding along the platform
of a very poorly lighted station. A dozen travelers
had already left the train. Five or six Georgians
were crowding on the steps of the compartments.
Ten minutes at Elisabethpol; the time-table allowed
us no more.
As soon as the bell begins to ring
I return to our carriage, and when I have shut the
door I notice that my place is taken. Yes!
Facing the American, a lady has installed herself
with that Anglo-Saxon coolness which is as unlimited
as the infinite. Is she young? Is she old?
Is she pretty? Is she plain? The obscurity
does not allow me to judge. In any case, my French
gallantry prevents me from claiming my corner, and
I sit down beside this person who makes no attempt
at apology.
Ephrinell seems to be asleep, and
that stops my knowing what it is that Strong, Bulbul
& Co., of New York, manufacture by the million.
The train has started. We have
left Elisabethpol behind. What have I seen of
this charming town of twenty thousand inhabitants,
built on the Gandja-tchai, a tributary of the Koura,
which I had specially worked up before my arrival?
Nothing of its brick houses hidden under verdure,
nothing of its curious ruins, nothing of its superb
mosque built at the beginning of the eighteenth century.
Of its admirable plane trees, so sought after by crows
and blackbirds, and which maintain a supportable temperature
during the excessive heats of summer, I had scarcely
seen the higher branches with the moon shining on
them. And on the banks of the stream which bears
its silvery murmuring waters along the principal street,
I had only seen a few houses in little gardens, like
small crenelated fortresses. All that remained
in my memory would be an indecisive outline, seized
in flight from between the steam puffs of our engine.
And why are these houses always in a state of defence?
Because Elisabethpol is a fortified town exposed to
the frequent attacks of the Lesghians of Chirvan,
and these mountaineers, according to the best-informed
historians, are directly descended from Attila’s
hordes.
It was nearly midnight. Weariness
invited me to sleep, and yet, like a good reporter,
I must sleep with one eye and one ear open.
I fall into that sort of slumber provoked
by the regular trépidations of a train on the
road, mingled with ear-splitting whistles and the
grind of the brakes as the speed is slowed, and tumultuous
roars as passing trains are met with, besides the
names of the stations shouted out during the short
stoppages, and the banging of the doors which are
opened or shut with metallic sonority.
In this way I heard the shouts of
Geran, Varvara, Oudjarry, Kiourdamir, Klourdane, then
Karasoul, Navagi. I sat up, but as I no longer
occupied the corner from which I had been so cavalierly
evicted, it was impossible for me to look through
the window.
And then I began to ask what is hidden
beneath this mass of veils and wraps and petticoats,
which has usurped my place. Is this lady going
to be my companion all the way to the terminus of
the Grand Transasiatic? Shall I exchange a sympathetic
salute with her in the streets of Pekin? And
from her my thoughts wander to my companion who is
snoring in the corner in a way that would make all
the ventilators of Strong, Bulbul & Co. quite jealous.
And what is it these big people make? Is it iron
bridges, or locomotives, or armor plates, or steam
boilers, or mining pumps? From what my American
told me, I might find a rival to Creusot or Cokerill
or Essen in this formidable establishment in the United
States of America. At least unless he has been
taking a rise out of me, for he does not seem to be
“green,” as they say in his country, which
means to say that he does not look very much like an
idiot, this Ephrinell!
And yet it seems that I must gradually
have fallen sound asleep. Withdrawn from exterior
influences, I did not even hear the stentorian respiration
of the Yankee. The train arrived at Aliat, and
stayed there ten minutes without my being aware of
it. I am sorry for it, for Aliat is a little
seaport, and I should like to have had a first glimpse
of the Caspian, and of the countries ravaged by Peter
the Great. Two columns of the histórico-fantastic
might have been made out of that, with the aid of
Bouillet and Larousse.
“Baku! Baku!”
The word repeated as the train stopped awoke me.
It was seven o’clock in the morning.