Travelers used to land at Mikhailov,
a little port at the end of the Transcaspian line;
but ships of moderate tonnage hardly had water enough
there to come alongside. On this account, General
Annenkof, the creator of the new railway, the eminent
engineer whose name will frequently recur in my narrative,
was led to found Uzun Ada, and thereby considerably
shorten the crossing of the Caspian. The station
was built in three months, and it was opened on the
8th of May, 1886.
Fortunately I had read the account
given by Boulangier, the engineer, relating to the
prodigious work of General Annenkof, so that I shall
not be so very much abroad during the railway journey
between Uzun Ada and Samarkand, and, besides, I trust
to Major Noltitz, who knows all about the matter.
I have a presentiment that we shall become good friends,
and in spite of the proverb which says, “Though
your friend be of honey do not lick him!” I
intend to “lick” my companion often enough
for the benefit of my readers.
We often hear of the extraordinary
rapidity with which the Americans have thrown their
railroads across the plains of the Far West. But
the Russians are in no whit behind them, if even they
have not surpassed them in rapidity as well as in
industrial audacity.
People are fully acquainted with the
adventurous campaign of General Skobeleff against
the Turkomans, a campaign of which the building of
the railway assured the definite success. Since
then the political state of Central Asia has been
entirely changed, and Turkestan is merely a province
of Asiatic Russia, extending to the frontiers of the
Chinese Empire. And already Chinese Turkestan
is very visibly submitting to the Muscovite influence
which the vertiginous heights of the Pamir plateau
have not been able to check in its civilizing march.
I was about to cross the countries
which were formerly ravaged by Tamerlane and Genghis
Khan, those fabulous countries of which the Russians
in 1886 possessed six hundred and fifteen thousand
square kilometres, with thirteen hundred thousand
inhabitants. The southern part of this region
now forms the Transcaspian province, divided into
six districts, Fort Alexandrovski, Krasnovodsk, Askhabad,
Karibent, Merv, Pendjeh, governed by Muscovite colonels
or lieutenant-colonels.
As may be imagined, it hardly takes
an hour to see Uzun Ada, the name of which means Long
Island. It is almost a town, but a modern town,
traced with a square, drawn with a line or a large
carpet of yellow sand. No monuments, no memories,
bridges of planks, houses of wood, to which comfort
is beginning to add a few mansions in stone. One
can see what this, first station of the Transcaspian
will be like in fifty years; a great city after having
been a great railway station.
Do not think that there are no hotels.
Among others there is the Hotel du Czar, which has
a good table, good rooms and good beds. But the
question of beds has no interest for me. As the
train starts at four o’clock this afternoon,
to begin with, I must telegraph to the Twentieth
Century, by the Caspian cable, that I am at my
post at the Uzun Ada station. That done, I can
see if I can pick up anything worth reporting.
Nothing is more simple. It consists
in opening an account with those of my companions
with whom I may have to do during the journey.
That is my custom, I always find it answers, and while
waiting for the unknown, I write down the known in
my pocketbook, with a number to distinguish each:
1. Fulk Ephrinell, America. Miss Horatia Bluett, Englis.
Major Noltitz, Russia. Monsieur Caterna,
Frenc. Madame Caterna, Frenc.
Baron Weissschnitzerdoerfer, German.
As to the Chinese, they will have
a number later on, when I have made up my mind about
them. As to the individual in the box, I intend
to enter into communication with him, or her, and
to be of assistance in that quarter if I can do so
without betraying the secret.
The train is already marshaled in
the station. It is composed of first and second-class
cars, a restaurant car and two baggage vans. These
cars are painted of a light color, an excellent precaution
against the heat and against the cold. For in
the Central Asian provinces the temperature ranges
between fifty degrees centigrade above zero and twenty
below, and in a range of seventy degrees it is only
prudent to minimize the effects.
These cars are in a convenient manner
joined together by gangways, on the American plan.
Instead of being shut up in a compartment, the traveler
strolls about along the whole length of the train.
There is room to pass between the stuffed seats, and
in the front and rear of each car are the platforms
united by the gangways. This facility of communication
assures the security of the train.
Our engine has a bogie on four small
wheels, and is thus able to negotiate the sharpest
curves; a tender with water and fuel; then come a
front van, three first-class cars with twenty-four
places each, a restaurant car with pantry and kitchen,
four second-class cars and a rear van; in all twelve
vehicles, counting in the locomotive and tender.
The first class cars are provided with dressing rooms,
and their seats, by very simple mechanism, are convertible
into beds, which, in fact, are indispensable for long
journeys. The second-class travelers are not so
comfortably treated, and besides, they have to bring
their victuals with them, unless they prefer to take
their meals at the stations. There are not many,
however, who travel the complete journey between the
Caspian and the eastern provinces of China that
is to say about six thousand kilometres. Most
of them go to the principal towns and villages of
Russian Turkestan, which have been reached by the Transcaspian
Railway for some years, and which up to the Chinese
frontier has a length of over 1,360 miles.
This Grand Transasiatic has only been
open six weeks and the company is as yet only running
two trains a week. All has gone well up to the
present; but I ought to add the significant detail
that the railway men carry a supply of revolvers to
arm the passengers with if necessary. This is
a wise precaution in crossing the Chinese deserts,
where an attack on the train is not improbable.
I believe the company are doing their
best to ensure the punctuality of their trains; but
the Chinese section is managed by Celestials,
and who knows what has been the past life of those
people? Will they not be more intent on the security
of their dividends than of their passengers?
As I wait for the departure I stroll
about on the platform, looking through the windows
of the cars, which have no doors along the sides,
the entrances being at the ends.
Everything is new; the engine is as
bright as it can be, the carriages are brilliant in
their new paint, their springs have not begun to give
with wear, and their wheels run true on the rails.
Then there is the rolling stock with which we are
going to cross a continent. There is no railway
as long as this not even in America.
The Canadian line measures five thousand kilometres,
the Central Union, five thousand two hundred and sixty,
the Santa Fe line, four thousand eight hundred and
seventy-five, the Atlantic Pacific, five thousand six
hundred and thirty, the Northern Pacific, six thousand
two hundred and fifty. There is only one line
which will be longer when it is finished, and that
is the Grand Transsiberian, from the Urals to Vladivostock,
which will measure six thousand five hundred kilometres.
Between Tiflis and Pekin our journey
will not last more than thirteen days, from Uzun Ada
it will only last eleven. The train will only
stop at the smaller stations to take in fuel and water.
At the chief towns like Merv, Bokhara, Samarkand,
Tashkend, Kachgar, Kokhand, Sou Tcheou, Lan Tcheou,
Tai Youan, it will stop a few hours and
that will enable me to do these towns in reporter
style.
Of course, the same driver and stoker
will not take us through. They will be relieved
every six hours. Russians will take us up to the
frontier of Turkestan, and Chinese will take us on
through China.
But there is one representative of
the company who will not leave his post, and that
is Popof, our head guard, a true Russian of soldierly
bearing, hairy and bearded, with a folded overcoat
and a Muscovite cap. I intend to talk a good
deal with this gallant fellow, although he is not
very talkative. If he does not despise a glass
of vodka, opportunity offered, he may have a good
deal to say to me; for ten years he has been on the
Transcaspian between Uzun Ada and the Pamirs, and
during the last month he has been all along the line
to Pekin.
I call him N in my notebook, and
I hope he will give me information enough. I
only want a few incidents of the journey, just a few
little incidents worthy of the Twentieth Century.
Among the passengers I see on the
platform are a few Jews, recognizable more by their
faces than their attire. Formerly, in Central
Asia, they could only wear the “toppe,”
a sort of round cap, and a plain rope belt, without
any silk ornamentation under pain of death.
And I am told that they could ride on asses in certain
towns and walk on foot in others. Now they wear
the oriental turban and roll in their carriages if
their purse allows of it. Who would hinder them
now they are subjects of the White Czar, Russian citizens,
rejoicing in civil and political rights equal to those
of their Turkoman compatriots?
There are a few Tadjiks of Persian
origin, the handsomest men you can imagine. They
have booked for Merv, or Bokhara, or Samarkand, or
Tachkend, or Kokhand, and will not pass the Russo-Chinese
frontier. As a rule they are second-class passengers.
Among the first-class passengers I noticed a few Usbegs
of the ordinary type, with retreating foreheads and
prominent cheek bones, and brown complexions,
who were the lords of the country, and from whose
families come the émirs and khans of Central
Asia.
But are there not any Europeans in
this Grand Transasiatic train? It must be confessed
that I can only count five or six. There are a
few commercial travelers from South Russia, and one
of those inevitable gentlemen from the United Kingdom,
who are inevitably to be found on the railways and
steamboats. It is still necessary to obtain permission
to travel on the Transcaspian, permission which the
Russian administration does not willingly accord to
an Englishman; but this man has apparently been able
to get one.
And he seems to me to be worth notice.
He is tall and thin, and looks quite the fifty years
that his gray hairs proclaim him to be. His characteristic
expression is one of haughtiness, or rather disdain,
composed in equal parts of love of all things English
and contempt for all things that are not. This
type is occasionally so insupportable, even to his
compatriots, that Dickens, Thackeray and others have
often made fun of it. How he turned up his nose
at the station at Uzun Ada, at the train, at the men,
at the car in which he had secured a seat by placing
in it his traveling bag! Let us call him N
in my pocketbook.
There seem to be no personages of
importance. That is a pity. If only the
Emperor of Russia, on one side, or the Son of Heaven,
on the other, were to enter the train to meet officially
on the frontier of the two empires, what festivities
there would be, what grandeur, what descriptions,
what copy for letters and telegrams!
It occurs to me to have a look at
the mysterious box. Has it not a right to be
so called? Yes, certainly. I must really
find out where it has been put and how to get at it
easily.
The front van is already full of Ephrinell’s
baggage. It does not open at the side, but in
front and behind, like the cars. It is also furnished
with a platform and a gangway. An interior passage
allows the guard to go through it to reach the tender
and locomotive if necessary. Popof’s little
cabin is on the platform of the first car, in the
left-hand corner. At night it will be easy for
me to visit the van, for it is only shut in by the
doors at the ends of the passage arranged between
the packages. If this van is reserved for luggage
registered through to China, the luggage for the Turkestan
stations ought to be in the van at the rear.
When I arrived the famous box was still on the platform.
In looking at it closely I observe
that airholes have been bored on each of its sides,
and that on one side it has two panels, one of which
can be made to slide on the other from the inside.
And I am led to think that the prisoner has had it
made so in order that he can, if necessary, leave
his prison probably during the night.
Just now the porters are beginning
to lift the box. I have the satisfaction of seeing
that they attend to the directions inscribed on it.
It is placed, with great care, near the entrance to
the van, on the left, the side with the panels outward,
as if it were the door of a cupboard. And is
not the box a cupboard? A cupboard I propose to
open?
It remains to be seen if the guard
in charge of the luggage is to remain in this van.
No. I find that his post is just outside it.
“There it is, all right!”
said one of the porters, looking to see that the case
was as it should be, top where top should be, and so
on.
“There is no fear of its moving,”
said another porter; “the glass will reach Pekin
all right, unless the train runs off the metals.”
“Or it does not run into anything,”
said the other; “and that remains to be seen.”
They were right these good
fellows it remained to be seen and
it would be seen.
The American came up to me and took
a last look at his stock of incisors, molars and canines,
with a repetition of his invariable “Wait a
bit.”
“You know, Monsieur Bombarnac,”
he said to me, “that the passengers are going
to dine at the Hotel du Czar before the departure of
the train. It is time now. Will you come
with me?”
“I follow you.”
And we entered the dining room.
All my numbers are there: 1, Ephrinell, taking
his place as usual by the side of 2, Miss Horatia Bluett.
The French couple, 4 and 5, are also side by side.
Number 3, that is Major Noltitz, is seated in front
of numbers 9 and 10, the two Chinese to whom I have
just given numbers in my notebook. As to the fat
German, number 6, he has already got his long nose
into his soup plate. I see also that the Guard
Popol, number 7, has his place at the foot of the
table. The other passengers, Europeans and Asiatics,
are installed, passim with the evident intention
of doing justice to the repast.
Ah! I forgot my number 8, the
disdainful gentleman whose name I don’t yet
know, and who seems determined to find the Russian
cookery inferior to the English.
I also notice with what attention
Monsieur Caterna looks after his wife, and encourages
her to make up for the time lost when she was unwell
on board the Astara. He keeps her glass
filled, he chooses the best pieces for her, etc.
“What a good thing it is,”
I hear him say, “that we are not to leeward
of the Teuton, for there would be nothing left for
us!”
He is to windward of him that
is to say, the dishes reach him before they get to
the baron, which, however, does not prevent his clearing
them without shame.
The observation, in sea language,
made me smile, and Caterna, noticing it, gave me a
wink with a slight movement of the shoulder toward
the baron.
It is evident that these French people
are not of high distinction, they do not belong to
the upper circles; but they are good people, I will
answer for it, and when we have to rub shoulders with
compatriots, we must not be too particular in Turkestan.
The dinner ends ten minutes before
the time fixed for our departure. The bell rings
and we all make a move for the train, the engine of
which is blowing off steam.
Mentally, I offer a last prayer to
the God of reporters and ask him not to spare me adventures.
Then, after satisfying myself that all my numbers
are in the first-class cars, so that I can keep an
eye on them, I take my place.
The Baron Weissschnitzerdoerfer what
an interminable name is not behindhand
this time. On the contrary, it is the train this
time which is five minutes late in starting; and the
German has begun to complain, to chafe and to swear,
and threatens to sue the company for damages.
Ten thousand roubles not a penny less! if
it causes him to fail. Fail in what, considering
that he is going to Pekin?
At length the last shriek of the whistle
cleaves the air, the cars begin to move, and a loud
cheer salutes the departure of the Grand Transasiatic
express.