At a quarter-past twelve our train
passed the station of Kari Bata, which resembles one
of the stations on the line from Naples to Sorrento,
with its Italian roofs. I noticed a vast Asiático-Russian
camp, the flags waving in the fresh breeze. We
have entered the Mervian oasis, eighty miles long
and eight wide, and containing about six hundred thousand
hectares there is nothing like being precise
at the finish. Right and left are cultivated
fields, clumps of fine trees, an uninterrupted succession
of villages, huts among the thickets, fruit gardens
between the houses, flocks of sheep and herds of cattle
among the pastures. All this rich country is
watered by the Mourgab the White Water or
its tributaries, and pheasants swarm like crows on
the plains of Normandy. At one o’clock
in the afternoon the train stopped at Merv Station,
over five hundred miles from Uzun Ada.
The town has been often destroyed
and rebuilt. The wars of Turkestan have not spared
it. Formerly, it seems, it was a haunt of robbers
and bandits, and it is a pity that the renowned Ki-Tsang
did not live in those days. Perhaps he would
have become a Genghis Khan?
Major Noltitz told me of a Turkoman
saying to the following effect: “If you
meet a Mervian and a viper, begin by killing the Mervian
and leave the viper till afterwards.”
I fancy it would be better to begin
with killing the viper now that the Mervian has become
a Russian.
We have seven hours to stop at Merv.
I shall have time to visit this curious town.
Its physical and moral transformation has been profound,
owing to the somewhat arbitrary proceedings of the
Russian administration. It is fortunate that
its fortress, five miles round, built by Nour Verdy
in 1873, was not strong enough to prevent its capture
by the czar, so that the old nest of malefactors has
become one of the most important cities of the Transcaspian.
I said to Major Noltitz:
“If it is not trespassing on
your kindness, may I ask you to go with me?”
“Willingly,” he answered;
“and as far as I am concerned, I shall be very
pleased to see Merv again.”
We set out at a good pace.
“I ought to tell you,”
said the major, “that it is the new town we are
going to see.”
“And why not the old one first?
That would be more logical and more chronological.”
“Because old Merv is eighteen
miles away, and you will hardly see it as you pass.
So you must refer to the accurate description given
of it by your great geographer Élisée Reclus.”
And certainly readers will not lose
anything by the change.
The distance from the station to new
Merv is not great. But what an abominable dust!
The commercial town is built on the left of the river a
town in the American style, which would please Ephrinell,
wide streets straight as a line crossing at right
angles; straight boulevards with rows of trees; much
bustle and movement among the merchants in Oriental
costume, in Jewish costume, merchants of every kind;
a number of camels and dromedaries, the latter much
in request for their powers of withstanding fatigue
and which differ in their hinder parts from their
African congeners. Not many women along the sunny
roads which seem white hot. Some of the feminine
types are, however, sufficiently remarkable, dressed
out in a quasi-military costume, wearing soft boots
and a cartouche belt in the Circassian style.
You must take care of the stray dogs, hungry brutes
with long hair and disquieting fangs, of a breed reminding
one of the dogs of the Caucasus, and these animals according
to Boulangier the engineer have eaten a
Russian general.
“Not entirely,” replies
the major, confirming the statement. “They
left his boots.”
In the commercial quarter, in the
depths of the gloomy ground floors, inhabited by the
Persians and the Jews, within the miserable shops are
sold carpets of incredible fineness, and colors artistically
combined, woven mostly by old women without any Jacquard
cards.
On both banks of the Mourgab the Russians
have their military establishment. There parade
the Turkoman soldiers in the service of the czar.
They wear the blue cap and the white épaulettes
with their ordinary uniform, and drill under the orders
of Russian officers.
A wooden bridge, fifty yards long,
crosses the river. It is practicable not only
for foot-passengers, but for trains, and telegraph
wires are stretched above its parapets.
On the opposite bank is the administrative
town, which contains a considerable number of civil
servants, wearing the usual Russian cap.
In reality the most interesting place
to see is a sort of annexe, a Tekke village, in the
middle of Merv, whose inhabitants have retained the
villainous characteristics of this decaying race, the
muscular bodies, large ears, thick lips, black beard.
And this gives the last bit of local color to be found
in the new town.
At a turning in the commercial quarter
we met the commercials, American and English.
“Mr. Ephrinell,” I said,
“there is nothing curious in this modern Merv.”
“On the contrary, Mr. Bombarnac,
the town is almost Yankee, and it will soon see the
day when the Russians will give it tramways and
gaslights!”
“That will come!”
“I hope it will, and then Merv will have a right
to call itself a city.”
“For my part, I should have
preferred a visit to the old town, with its mosque,
its fortress, and its palace. But that is a little
too far off, and the train does not stop there, which
I regret.”
“Pooh!” said the Yankee.
“What I regret is, that there is no business
to be done in these Turkoman countries! The men
all have teeth ”
“And the women all have hair,” added Horatia
Bluett.
“Well, miss, buy their hair, and you will not
lose your time.”
“That is exactly what Holmes-Holme
of London will do as soon as we have exhausted the
capillary stock of the Celestial Empire.”
And thereupon the pair left us.
I then suggested to Major Noltitz it
was six o’clock to dine at Merv,
before the departure of the train. He consented,
but he was wrong to consent. An ill-fortune took
us to the Hotel Slav, which is very inferior to our
dining car at least as regards its bill
of fare. It contained, in particular, a national
soup called “borchtch,” prepared with
sour milk, which I would carefully refrain from recommending
to the gourmets of the Twentieth Century.
With regard to my newspaper, and that
telegram relative to the mandarin our train is “conveying”
in the funereal acceptation of the word? Has
Popof obtained from the mutes who are on guard the
name of this high personage?
Yes, at last! And hardly are
we within the station than he runs up to me, saying:
“I know the name.”
“And it is?”
“Yen Lou, the great mandarin Yen Lou of Pekin.”
“Thank you, Popof.”
I rush to the telegraph office, and
from there I send a telegram to the Twentieth Century.
“Merv, 16th May, 7 p.m.
“Train, Grand Transasiatic,
just leaving Merv. Took from Douchak the body
of the great mandarin Yen Lou coming from Persia to
Pekin.”
It cost a good deal, did this telegram,
but you will admit it was well worth its price.
The name of Yen Lou was immediately
communicated to our fellow travelers, and it seemed
to me that my lord Faruskiar smiled when he heard
it.
We left the station at eight o’clock
precisely. Forty minutes afterwards we passed
near old Merv, and the night being dark I could see
nothing of it. There was, however, a fortress
with square towers and a wall of some burned bricks,
and ruined tombs, and a palace and remains of mosques,
and a collection of archaeological things, which would
have run to quite two hundred lines of small text.
“Console yourself,” said
Major Noltitz. “Your satisfaction could
not be complete, for old Merv has been rebuilt four
times. If you had seen the fourth town, Bairam
Ali of the Persian period, you would not have seen
the third, which was Mongol, still less the Musalman
village of the second epoch, which was called Sultan
Sandjar Kala, and still less the town of the first
epoch. That was called by some Iskander Kala,
in honor of Alexander the Macedonian, and by others
Ghiaour Kala, attributing its foundation to Zoroaster,
the founder of the Magian religion, a thousand years
before Christ. So I should advise you to put
your regrets in the waste-paper basket.”
And that is what I did, as I could
do no better with them.
Our train is running northeast.
The stations are twenty or thirty versts apart.
The names are not shouted, as we make no stop, and
I have to discover them on my time-table. Such
are Keltchi, Ravina why this Italian name
in this Turkoman province? Peski, Repetek,
etc. We cross the desert, the real desert
without a thread of water, where artesian wells have
to be sunk to supply the reservoirs along the line.
The major tells me that the engineers
experienced immense difficulty in fixing the sandhills
on this part of the railway. If the palisades
had not been sloped obliquely, like the barbs of a
feather, the line would have been covered by the sand
to such an extent as to stop the running of the trains.
As soon as this region of sandhills had been passed
we were again on the level plain on which the rails
had been laid so easily.
Gradually my companions go to sleep,
and our carriage is transformed into a sleeping car.
I then return to my Roumanian.
Ought I to attempt to see him to-night? Undoubtedly;
and not only to satisfy a very natural curiosity, but
also to calm his anxiety. In fact, knowing his
secret is known to the person who spoke to him through
the panel of his case, suppose the idea occurred to
him to get out at one of the stations, give up his
journey, and abandon his attempt to rejoin Mademoiselle
Zinca Klork, so as to escape the company’s pursuit?
That is possible, after all, and my intervention may
have done the poor fellow harm to say nothing
of my losing N, one of the most valuable in my
collection.
I am resolved to visit him before
the coming dawn. But, in order to be as careful
as possible, I will wait until the train has passed
Tchardjoui, where it ought to arrive at twenty-seven
past two in the morning. There we shall stop
a quarter of an hour before proceeding towards the
Amu-Daria. Popof will then retire to his den,
and I shall be able to slip into the van, without
fear of being seen.
How long the hours appear! Several
times I have almost fallen asleep, and twice or thrice
I have had to go out into the fresh air on the platform.
The train enters Tchardjoui Station
to the minute. It is an important town of the
Khanate of Bokhara, which the Transcaspian reached
towards the end of 1886, seventeen months after the
first sleeper was laid. We are not more than
twelve versts from the Amu-Daria, and beyond that
river I shall enter on my adventure.
I have said that the stop at Tchardjoui
ought to last a quarter of an hour. A few travelers
alight, for they have booked to this town which contains
about thirty thousand inhabitants. Others get
in to proceed to Bokhara and Samarkand, but these
are only second-class passengers. This produces
a certain amount of bustle on the platform.
I also get out and take a walk up
and down by the side of the front van, and I notice
the door silently open and shut. A man creeps
out on to the platform and slips away through the
station, which is dimly lighted by a few petroleum
lamps.
It is my Roumanian. It can be
no one else. He has not been seen, and there
he is, lost among the other travelers. Why this
escape? Is it to renew his provisions at the
refreshment bar? On the contrary, is not his
intention, as I am afraid it is, to get away from us?
Shall I stop him? I will make
myself known to him; promise to help him. I will
speak to him in French, in English, in German, in Russian as
he pleases. I will say to him: “My
friend, trust to my discretion; I will not betray
you. Provisions? I will bring them to you
during the night. Encouragements? I will
heap them on you as I will the refreshments. Do
not forget that Mademoiselle Zinca Klork, evidently
the most lovely of Roumanians, is expecting you at
Pekin, etc.”
Behold me then following him without
appearing to do so. Amid all this hurry to and
fro he is in little danger of being noticed. Neither
Popof nor any of the company’s servants would
suspect him to be a swindler. Is he going towards
the gate to escape me?
No! He only wants to stretch
his legs better than he can do in the van. After
an imprisonment which has lasted since he left Baku that
is to say, about sixty hours he has earned
ten minutes of freedom.
He is a man of middle height, lithe
in his movements, and with a gliding kind of walk.
He could roll himself up like a cat and find quite
room enough in his case. He wears an old vest,
his trousers are held up by a belt, and his cap is
a fur one all of dark color.
I am at ease regarding his intentions.
He returns towards the van, mounts the platform, and
shuts the door gently behind him. As soon as
the train is on the move I will knock at the panel,
and this time
More of the unexpected. Instead
of waiting at Tchardjoui one-quarter of an hour we
have to wait three. A slight injury to one of
the brakes of the engine has had to be repaired, and,
notwithstanding the German baron’s remonstrances,
we do not leave the station before half-past three,
as the day is beginning to dawn.
It follows from this that if I cannot
visit the van I shall at least see the Amou-Daria.
The Amou-Daria is the Oxus of the
Ancients, the rival of the Indus and the Ganges.
It used to be a tributary of the Caspian, as shown
on the maps, but now it flows into the Sea of Aral.
Fed by the snows and rains of the Pamir plateau, its
sluggish waters flow between low clay cliffs and banks
of sand. It is the River-Sea in the Turkoman tongue,
and it is about two thousand five hundred kilometres
long.
The train crosses it by a bridge a
league long, the line being a hundred feet and more
above its surface at low water, and the roadway trembles
on the thousand piles which support it, grouped in
fives between each of the spans, which are thirty
feet wide.
In ten months, at a cost of thirty-five
thousand roubles, General Annenkof built this bridge,
the most important one on the Grand Transasiatic.
The river is of a dull-yellow color.
A few islands emerge from the current here and there,
as far as one can see.
Popof pointed out the stations for
the guards on the parapet of the bridge.
“What are they for?” I asked.
“For the accommodation of a
special staff, whose duty it is to give the alarm
in case of fire, and who are provided with fire-extinguishers.”
This is a wise precaution. Not
only have sparks from the engines set it on fire in
several places, but there are other disasters possible.
A large number of boats, for the most part laden with
petroleum, pass up and down the Amou-Daria, and it
frequently happens that these become fire-ships.
A constant watch is thus only too well justified, for
if the bridge were destroyed, its reconstruction would
take a year, during which the transport of passengers
from one bank to the other would not be without its
difficulties.
At last the train is going slowly
across the bridge. It is broad daylight.
The desert begins again at the second station, that
of Karakoul. Beyond can be seen the windings
of an affluent of the Amou-Daria, the Zarafchane,
“the river that rolls with gold,” the
course of which extends up to the valley of the Sogd,
in that fertile oasis on which stands the city of
Samarkand.
At five o’clock in the morning
the train stops at the capital of the Khanate of Bokhara,
eleven hundred and seven versts from Uzun Ada.