In order to market intelligently and
economically, we must bear in mind the three great
divisions of foods generally accepted in their consideration,
and endeavor to adapt them to the requirements of our
households; if we remember that carbonaceous, or heat-giving
foods, such as the inner part of the cereals, fat
meat, milk, honey, liver, grapes, peas, beans, potatoes,
beets, carrots, and parsnips, are the best diet for
hard steady workers, and for invalids suffering from
wasting diseases; that nitrogenous, or flesh-forming
foods, such as lean meat, unbolted flour, oatmeal,
eggs, cheese, cabbage, cauliflower, onions, spinach,
asparagus, and artichokes, are most suitable for those
who work rapidly but with intervals of rest; and that
brain-workers should subsist chiefly on light and
digestible articles, such as fish, oysters, fruits,
game, and vegetables containing mineral salts in excess;
we can arrange the daily marketing so as to give a
pleasant variety and at the same time satisfy all
appetites.
Buy only small quantities of perishable
things such as green vegetables, fruit, fish, eggs,
cream, and fresh butter; buy dry groceries and preserved
stores in quantities large enough to entitle you to
wholesale prices; and pay cash in order to avail yourself
of the lowest market price. Make your purchases
as early in the day as possible in order to secure
a choice of fresh articles; and trade with respectable
dealers who give full weight and honest measure.
Meats. While meats are
in season all the year, they are better at stated
times; for instance, pork is prime in late autumn and
winter; veal should be avoided in summer for sanitary
reasons; and even our staples, beef and mutton, vary
in quality. The flesh of healthy animals is hard
and fresh colored, the fat next the skin is firm and
thick, and the suet or kidney-fat clear white and
abundant; if this fat is soft, scant and stringy,
the animal has been poorly fed or overworked.
Beef should be of a bright red color, well marbled
with yellowish fat, and surrounded with a thick outside
layer of fat; poor beef is dark red, and full of gristle,
and the fat is scant and oily. Mutton is bright
red, with plenty of hard white fat; poor mutton is
dull red in color, with dark, muddy-looking fat.
Veal and pork should be bright flesh color with abundance
of hard, white, semi-transparent fat; when the fat
is reddish and dark, the meat is of an inferior quality;
veal and pork should be eaten very fresh. When
meat of any kind comes into the house it should be
hung up at once in some cool, dark place, and left
until wanted.
Poultry. Fresh poultry
may be known by its full bright eyes, pliable feet,
and soft moist skin; the best is plump, fat, and nearly
white, and the grain of the flesh is fine. The
feet and neck of a young fowl are large in proportion
to its size, and the tip of the breast-bone is soft,
and easily bent between the fingers; the body of a
capon is large, fat, and round, the head comparatively
small, and the comb pale and withered; a young cock,
has short, loose, soft spurs, and a long, full, bright
red comb; old fowls have long, thin necks and feet,
and the flesh on the legs and back has a purplish
shade; chickens, capóns, and fowls, are always
in season.
Turkeys when good are white and plump,
have full breasts and smooth legs, generally black,
with soft, loose spurs; hen turkeys are smaller, fatter,
and plumper, but of inferior flavor; full grown turkeys
are the best for boning and boiling, as they do not
tear in dressing; old turkeys have long hairs, and
the flesh is purplish where it shows under the skin
on the legs and back. About March they deteriorate
in quality. Turkey-poults are tender, but lack
flavor.
Young ducks and geese are plump, with
light, semi-transparent fat, soft breast-bone, tender
flesh, leg joints which will break by the weight of
the bird, fresh colored and brittle beaks, and windpipes
that break when pressed between the thumb and fore-finger.
They are best in fall and winter.
Young pigeons have light red flesh
upon the breast, and full, fresh colored legs; when
the legs are thin, and the breast is very dark, the
birds are old. Squabs are tender and delicious.
The giblets of poultry consist of
the head, neck, wings, feet, gizzard, heart, and liver;
and make good soup, fricassees, pies, and various
entrees, or side dishes.
Game. Fine game birds
are always heavy for their size; the flesh of the
breast is firm and plump, the skin clear; and if a
few feathers be plucked from the inside of the leg
and around the vent, the flesh of freshly killed birds
will be fat and fresh colored; if it is dark, and
discolored, the game has been hung a long time.
The wings of good ducks, geese, pheasants, and woodcock
are tender to the touch; the tips of the long wing
feathers of partridges are pointed in young birds,
and round in old ones. Quail, snipe, and small
birds should have full tender breasts.
Young rabbits and hares have short
necks, thick knees, and forepaws which can be easily
broken; old ones are very poor.
Buffalo meat is somewhat similar in
appearance to beef, save that the flesh is darker,
and the fat redder; it is tender and juicy when it
has been kept long enough, say about two months in
winter; the tongue, when cured, is excellent.
Venison should be tender, and very
fat, or it will be dry and tasteless.
Bear meat, when fat and tender, is
savory and nourishing.
Fish. Sea fish, and those
which live in both salt and fresh water, such as salmon,
shad, and smelts, are the finest flavored; the muddy
taste of some fresh water species can be overcome
by soaking them in cold water and salt for two hours
or more before cooking; all kinds are best just before
spawning, the flesh becoming poor and watery after
that period. Fresh fish have firm flesh, rigid
fins, bright, clear eyes, and ruddy gills.
Oysters, clams, scallops, and mussels,
should be eaten very fresh, as they soon lose their
flavor after being removed from the shell.
Lobsters and crabs should be chosen
by their brightness of color, lively movement, and
great weight in proportion to their size.
Vegetables. All juicy
vegetables should be very fresh and crisp; and if
a little wilted, can be restored by being sprinkled
with water and laid in a cool, dark place; all roots
and tubers should be pared and laid in cold water
an hour or more before using. Green vegetables
are best just before they flower; and roots and tubers
are prime from their ripening until spring germination
begins.
Fruit. All fruit should
be purchased ripe and sound; it is poor economy to
buy imperfect or decayed kinds, as they are neither
satisfactory nor healthy eating; while the mature,
full-flavored sorts are invaluable as food.
Sweet Herbs. Sweet and
savory herbs are absolutely indispensable to good
cooking; they give variety and savory flavors to any
dish into which they enter, and are nearly all of
some decided sanitary use; the different kinds called
for in the various receipts further on in this work
can be bought at almost any grocery store, or in the
market; but we advise our readers to obtain seeds
from some good florist and make little kitchen gardens
of their own, even if the space planted be only a
box of mould in the kitchen window. Sage, thyme,
summer savory, sweet marjoram, tarragon, sweet basil,
rosemary, mint, burnet, chervil, dill, and parsley,
will grow abundantly with very little care; and when
dried, and added judiciously to food, greatly improve
its flavor. Parsley, tarragon and fennel, should
be dried in May, June, and July, just before flowering;
mint in June and July; thyme, marjoram, and savory
in July and August; basil and sage in August and September;
all herbs should be gathered in the sunshine, and
dried by artificial heat; their flavor is best preserved
by keeping them in air-tight tin cans.
Bay leaves can be procured at any
drug store, or German grocery, at a very moderate
expense; they have the flavor of laurel.
An excellent and convenient spice-salt
can be made by drying, powdering, and mixing by repeated
siftings the following ingredients: one quarter
of an ounce each of powdered thyme, bay leaf, and pepper;
one eighth of an ounce each of rosemary, marjoram,
and cayenne pepper, or powdered capsicums; one half
of an ounce each of powdered clove and nutmeg; to
every four ounces of this powder add one ounce of salt,
and keep the mixture in an air-tight vessel.
One ounce of it added to three pounds of stuffing,
or forcemeat of any kind, makes a delicious seasoning.
A bouquet of Sweet herbs. The
bouquet, or fagot, of sweet herbs, so often called
for in foreign cooking, is made as follows: wash
three or four sprigs of parsley, lay in their midst
one sprig of thyme, and two bay leaves; fold the parsley
over the thyme and bay leaves, tie it in a cork-shaped
roll, about three inches long and one inch thick.
The bouquet is used for seasoning soups, sauces, stews,
and savory dishes in general, and is removed when
the dish is served.