Soup is the most satisfactory and
nourishing of all dishes when it is properly made.
Its value depends upon what is put into it, but even
in its most economical form it constitutes a hearty
meal when eaten with bread and vegetables. It
can be made from the merest scraps and trimmings of
meat; from the heads, tails, and feet of animals; from
the bones and skin of fish; and from cereals and vegetables
alone. Pot liquor in which meat has been boiled
should always be saved and used for soup the next
day, when by the removal of all fat, by careful skimming,
and the addition of a few vegetables or some dumplings,
rice, or macaroni, it will make a palatable broth.
Experiments made by French chemists prove that the
delicacy and richness of soup may be increased by
first soaking the meat in tepid water enough to cover
it, and adding this to the second water in which the
meat is put over the fire, just as it reaches the
boiling point.
1. General Stock. PART
I. Where there is a family of any size it
is well to keep a clean pot or sauce-pan on the back
of the stove to receive all the clean scraps of meat,
bones, and remains of poultry and game, which are
found in every kitchen; but vegetables should not be
put into it, as they are apt to sour. The proper
proportions for soup are one pound of meat and bone
to one and a half quarts of cold water; the meat and
bones to be well chopped and broken up, and put over
the fire in cold water, being brought slowly to a
boil, and carefully skimmed as often as any scum rises;
and being maintained at a steady boiling point from
two to six hours, as time permits; one hour before
the stock is done, add to it one carrot and one turnip
pared, one onion stuck with three cloves, and a bouquet
of sweet herbs.
PART II. When the soup
is to be boiled six hours, two quarts of cold water
must be allowed to every pound of meat; this will be
reduced to one quart in boiling. Two gills of
soup are usually allowed for each person at table
when it is served as the first part of the dinner,
and meats are to follow it. Care should be taken
that the stock-pot boils slowly and constantly, from
one side, as rapid and irregular boiling clouds and
darkens the stock as much as imperfect skimming.
Stock should never be allowed to cool in the stock-pot,
but should be strained into an earthen jar, and left
standing to cool uncovered, and all the fat removed,
and saved to clarify for drippings; the stock is then
ready to heat and use for soup, or gravy. When
stock has been darkened and clouded by careless skimming
and fast boiling, it can be clarified by adding to
it one egg and the shell, mixed first with a gill of
cold water, then with a gill of boiling soup, and
stirring it briskly into the soup until it boils;
then remove it to the back of the fire where it will
not boil, and let it stand until the white and shell
of the egg have collected the small particles clouding
the soup; then strain it once or twice, until it looks
clear.
2. Flavoring, thickening, and coloring
soups. The flavor of soup stock may be
varied by using in it a little ham, anchovy, sausage,
sugar, or a calf’s foot. Herbs in the sprig,
and whole spices should be used in seasoning, as they
can easily be strained out. All delicate flavors,
and wine, should be added to soup just before serving
it, unless the contrary is expressly directed in the
receipt, because boiling would almost entirely evaporate
them: one gill of wine is usually allowed to
every three pints of soup.
Soups which precede a full dinner
should be less rich than those which form the bulk
of the meal. Corn starch, arrow root, and potato
flour are better than wheat flour for thickening soup.
The meal of peas and beans can be held in suspension
by mixing together dry a tablespoonful of butter and
flour, and stirring it into the soup; a quarter of
a pint of peas, beans, or lentils, is sufficient to
make a quart of thick soup. Two ounces of macaroni,
vermicelli, pearl barley, sago, tapioca, rice, or
oatmeal, are usually allowed for each quart of stock.
If you wish to darken soup use a teaspoonful
of caramel; but avoid burnt flour, carrot, and onion,
as all these give a bad flavor. Caramel can be
made from the following receipt; melt half a pound
of loaf sugar in a thick copper vessel, stirring it
frequently with a wooden spoon, and boiling it slowly
until it assumes a rich brown color, but do not let
it burn; when brown enough add one quart of cold water,
stir well, and boil gently at the side of the fire
for twenty minutes; then cool, strain, and bottle
tight. In using the caramel add it just as you
are about to serve the soup, or sauce colored with
it.
3. Clear Soup, or Consomme.
(Two quarts for eight persons.) This
is made by straining two quarts of stock, which has
been cooled and freed from fat, through a piece of
flannel or a napkin until it is bright and clear;
if this does not entirely clear it, use an egg, as
directed for clarifying soup; then season it to taste
with salt, using at first a teaspoonful, and a very
little fine white pepper, say a quarter of a saltspoonful;
and color it to a bright straw color with caramel,
of which a scant teaspoonful will be about the proper
quantity. Consomme is sent to the table clear,
but sometimes a deep dish containing poached eggs,
one for each person, with enough consomme to
cover them, accompanies it.
4. Poached Eggs for Consomme. Break
the eggs, which should be very fresh, into a deep
sauce-pan half full of boiling water, seasoned with
a teaspoonful of salt, and half a gill of vinegar;
cover the sauce-pan, and set it on the back part of
the fire until the whites of the eggs are firm; then
lift them separately on a skimmer, carefully trim off
the rough edges, making each egg a regular oval shape,
and slip them off the skimmer into a bowl of hot,
but not boiling water, where they must stand for ten
minutes before serving.
5. Vermicelli and Macaroni Soup. These
soups are both made as for consomme; and to
every quart of stock is added two ounces of one of
these pastes blanched as follows. Put the paste
into plenty of boiling water, with one tablespoonful
of salt to each quart of water, and boil until tender
enough to pierce with the finger nail; then drain it,
and put it in cold water until required for use, when
it should be placed in the two quarts of hot soup
long enough to heat thoroughly before serving.
6. Rice and Tomato Soup. Strain,
and pass through a sieve with a wooden spoon, one
pint of tomatoes, either fresh or canned, stir them
into two quarts of good, clear stock, free from fat;
season it with a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter
of a saltspoonful of pepper; taste, and if the seasoning
seems deficient add a little more, but do not put in
too much for general liking, for more can easily be
added, but none can be taken out. Add four ounces
of rice, well washed in plenty of cold water, and
boil the soup slowly for three quarters of an hour
before serving.
7. Scotch Broth without Meat. Steep
four ounces of pearl barley over night in cold water,
and wash it well in fresh water; cut in dice half
an inch square, six ounces of yellow turnip, six ounces
of carrot, four ounces of onion, two ounces of celery,
(or use in its place quarter of a saltspoonful of
celery seed;) put all these into two and a half quarts
of boiling water, season with a teaspoonful of salt,
quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and as much cayenne
as you can take up on the point of a very small pen-knife
blade; boil slowly for two hours; then stir in quarter
of a pound of oatmeal, mixed to a smooth batter with
cold water, see if seasoning be correct, add two or
three grates of nutmeg, and boil half an hour.
Meantime, cut two slices of bread in half inch dice,
fry light brown in hot fat, and lay the bits in the
soup tureen; when the soup is ready pour it over them,
and serve. This soup is very rich and nutritious,
and should be served with light dinners.
8. Scotch Broth with Meat. Put
four ounces of barley to soak in warm water.
From two pounds of the shoulder of mutton, cut the
lean meat in dice half an inch square; cut up the
rest in small pieces and make a stock as directed
in receipt N., Part I., using two
and a half quarts of water, and boiling and skimming
for two hours; at the end of an hour and a half put
the dice of meat into a sauce-pan with two ounces
of butter, and fry them brown; stir in one ounce of
flour; cut in dice six ounces each of yellow turnip
and carrot, chop four ounces of onion, and put these
with the meat; add the barley, and the stock strained,
season with a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a
saltspoonful of pepper, and simmer one hour.
Then serve with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley
sprinkled in the soup.
9. Spinach Soup. Blanch
two quarts of spinach, by putting it into a large
pot full of boiling water, with two tablespoonfuls
of salt, cover until it boils up once; then remove
the cover, and with a wooden spoon press the spinach
under water as fast as it rises to the surface; boil
it steadily until it is tender enough to pierce easily
with the finger nail; then drain it; run plenty of
cold water from the faucet over it, while it is still
in the colander; drain it again, chop it fine, and
pass it through a kitchen sieve with the aid of a wooden
spoon; boil two quarts of milk, add the spinach to
it, thicken it by stirring in one tablespoonful of
corn starch dissolved in cold milk; season it with
one teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful
of white pepper, and the same of nutmeg; and serve
it as soon as it boils up.
10. Sorrel Soup. Put
one pint of sorrel into a sauce-pan with a dessertspoonful
of salt, and one gill of cold water; cover it, and
cook until it is tender enough to pierce with the
finger nail, then drain, wash it well with cold water,
chop it and pass it through the kitchen sieve with
a wooden spoon; meantime brown half an ounce of chopped
onion in a sauce-pan with one ounce of butter; add
one ounce of flour, and stir till brown; then add
two quarts of hot water, or hot water and stock, and
the sorrel, and season with one teaspoonful of salt,
quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and the same
of nutmeg; mix the yolks of two eggs with two tablespoonfuls
of cold water, add to them half a pint of boiling
soup, and gradually stir the mixture into the soup,
boiling it a minute after it is thoroughly blended;
meantime cut two slices of bread into half inch dice,
fry them brown in smoking hot fat, drain them free
from grease on a napkin, put them into a soup tureen,
pour the soup on them, and serve at once.
11. Pea Soup. Use half
a pint of dried peas for thick soup, or one pint for
a puree, to two quarts of stock or cold water.
Bring slowly to a boil; add a bone or bit of ham,
one turnip and one carrot peeled, one onion stuck
with three cloves, and simmer three hours stirring
occasionally to prevent burning; then pass the soup
through a sieve with the aid of a potato masher; and
if it shows any sign of settling stir into it one
tablespoonful each of butter and flour mixed together
dry; this will hold the meal in solution; meantime
fry some dice of stale bread, about two slices, cut
half an inch square, in hot fat, drain them on a napkin,
and put them in the bottom of the soup tureen in which
the pea soup is served.
12. Lentil Soup. The
seed of the lentil tare commonly cultivated in France
and Germany as an article of food, ranks nearly as
high as meat, as a valuable food, being capable of
sustaining life and vigor for a long time; this vegetable
is gradually becoming known in this country, from
the use of it by our French and German citizens; and
from its nutritive value it deserves to rank as high
as our favorite New England beans. For two quarts
of lentil soup half a pint of yellow lentils should
be well washed, and put to boil in three pints of cold
water, with a small carrot, an onion, two sprigs of
parsley, and two bay leaves, and boiled gently until
the lentils are soft enough to break easily between
the fingers; every half hour one gill of cold water
should be added, and the lentils again raised to the
boiling point, until they are done; they should then
be drained in a colander, and passed through a sieve
with a wooden spoon, using enough of the liquor to
make them pass easy, and mixed with the rest of the
soup; it is then ready to simmer for half an hour,
and serve hot; with dice of fried bread half an inch
square, like those used for pea soup. These dice
of fried bread are called Conde crusts.