I have already spoken of the value
of fish as strengthening food, and in support of what
I say I need only to remind you how vigorous and healthy
the inhabitants of the sea coast usually are, especially
if they eat red-blooded fish. This fact, in connection
with the abundance and cheapness of fish makes it
an important article in the dietary of the good housekeeper.
Fish may be cooked by boiling, baking,
broiling, and frying; boiling is the least economical
method of cooking fish, and fish soup, or fish chowder
the most saving; broiled fish wastes but little of
its nutriment, but its bulk is decreased; baked fish
ranks next to fish soup in point of economy.
Fish are preserved for winter use
by cleaning them, rubbing them with salt, packing
them in layers, and covering them with brine.
An excellent way of pickling fish is to clean them,
cut off the heads, tails, and fins, wash them, and
then rub them well with salt and spice, pack them
in layers in an earthen crock or deep dish, cover them
with vinegar, and tie the jar over with buttered paper;
they are then ready to bake slowly for about four
hours; and will keep for three or four weeks after
they are cooked.
In London, and other large English
cities, where fried fish forms an important item of
popular food, it is cooked with great care, and in
such a manner as to retain all its nourishing qualities.
It is well washed in salted water, dried on a clean
cloth, cut in slices if large, dipped in a rather
thin batter, made of flour, salt, pepper, and cold
water, and then dropped into a pan containing plenty
of fat heated until it is smoking hot, but does not
boil; the pan is then taken from the fire, and by
the time the fat is growing cool the fish is cooked.
A novice would do best by maintaining the fat at the
proper degree of heat until the fish is cooked.
The receipts which I give for fish
are calculated to produce compound dishes from it,
hearty enough to make the bulk of a meal.
Fish and Potato Pie. Use
any cheap fish which does not cost more than five
or six cents a pound, such as cod, haddock, or blue-fish;
cut two pounds of fish, (cost twelve cents,) in pieces
about an inch thick and two inches long; lay them
in a deep dish with a pint of cold gravy of any kind,
or cold water, season with a tablespoonful each of
chopped parsley and onion, and a teaspoonful of salt,
pepper, and thyme, mixed together in equal quantities,
and sprinkled among the fish; put it into the oven
for fifteen or twenty minutes to partly cook.
Put one quart of potatoes, (cost three cents,) into
boiling water, and boil until soft enough to mash;
mash them, season them with salt and pepper, and put
them over the fish, which you must take from the oven,
as a crust; return the pie again to the oven to brown
the crust, and then serve it with bread and butter.
Twenty-five cents will cover the cost of all, and
the dinner will be a good one.
Fish Pudding. Make a
plain paste by mixing quarter of a pound of lard or
sweet drippings, (cost three cents,) with half a pound
of flour, (cost two cents,) a teaspoonful of salt,
and just water enough to make a stiff paste; roll
it out; line the edges of a deep pudding dish with
it half way down; fill the dish with layers of fresh
codfish cut in small pieces, using two pounds, (cost
twelve cents,) season each layer with salt, pepper,
chopped parsley, and chopped onions, using one tablespoonful
of salt, one saltspoonful of pepper, two bay leaves,
a saltspoonful of thyme, four ounces of onion, and
half an ounce of parsley, (cost five cents;) fill
up the dish with any cold gravy, milk, or water, cover
with paste, and bake fifteen minutes in a quick oven;
finish by baking half an hour in a moderate oven; serve
hot.
With bread the dinner will cost twenty-five cents.
Fish and Potato Pudding. Wash
and peel one quart of potatoes, (cost three cents,)
peel and slice about six ounces of onions, (cost one
cent,) skin and bone two bloaters or large herrings,
(cost five cents,) put all these ingredients into
a baking dish in layers, seasoning them with a dessertspoonful
of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper; pour over them
any cold gravy you have on hand, or add two or three
ounces of drippings; if you have neither of these,
water will answer; bake the pudding an hour and a
half; serve hot, with bread. If you use drippings
or milk the entire seasoning will cost you less than
five cents; and the whole dinner, which is excellent,
not more than fifteen cents.
Codfish Steaks. Two pounds
of codfish, (which costs at the market from four to
seven cents,) can be cut in steaks, dried well, and
either dipped in flour, or thin batter of flour, salt,
pepper, and water, and fried in smoking hot fat, or
can be served with a quart of boiled potatoes, (cost
three cents,) and plenty of bread and butter, at the
rate of about twenty cents a meal.
Red Herrings with Potatoes. Soak
a dozen herrings, (cost ten cents,) in cold water
for one hour; dry and skin them, split them down the
back, and lay them in a pan with two ounces of drippings,
two ounces of onion chopped fine, a saltspoonful of
pepper, and three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, (cost
two cents,) and set them in a moderate oven to brown
for ten or fifteen minutes; meantime, boil one quart
of potatoes, (cost three cents,) with a ring of the
paring taken off, in plenty of boiling water and salt,
pouring off the water as soon as they are tender, and
letting them stand on the back of the fire, covered
with a dry towel, for five minutes; serve them with
the herrings, taking care to dish both quite hot.
With bread and butter a plentiful dinner can be had
for about twenty-two cents.
Cheap Meats. Those parts
of meat which are called the cheap cuts, such as the
head, brains, tongue, tripe, kidneys, haslet or pluck,
feet, and tail, are eaten much more frequently in
Europe than in this country, and are worthy of all
the use they get there; for their proportion of flesh-forming
elements is large; this is especially the case with
the lights or lungs, but as they are rather difficult
to digest, they should be thoroughly cooked, and never
eaten alone. Tripe and pigs’ feet, on the
contrary, are very easily digested; but on this account
are not as satisfactory food as that which remains
longer in the stomach; although they are both savory
and cheap.
Be careful to keep all meat stews
closely covered, or a great deal of the nutriment
of the meat will escape in the steam.
Sheeps’ Head Stew. Thoroughly
clean a sheeps’ head, weighing about three pounds,
(cost about ten cents,) put it over the fire with quarter
of a pound of rice, (cost three cents,) two cents’
worth of onions sliced, a level tablespoonful of salt,
quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, and three pints
of cold water; bring it slowly to a boil, skimming
it carefully, and then add five cents’ worth
of carrots and turnips, peeled and quartered; let
all simmer gently together for two hours, being careful
to remove all grease, and see if the seasoning is
correct, before dishing the stew. With bread,
or boiled potatoes, the meal will cost about twenty-five
cents.
Oxtail Stew. Put two
jointed oxtails, (cost about ten cents,) over the
fire in one quart of cold water, and scald them, to
remove the strong flavor; then roll the joints in
flour, season them with salt and pepper, and pack
them in an earthen jar, with one onion chopped, and
one quart of potatoes peeled and sliced; the vegetables
and seasoning will cost about five cents; add one
pint of water, put on the cover of the jar, and cement
it in place with a paste of flour and water, which
you must grease a little to prevent cracking; then
put the jar into a moderately hot oven, and bake it
about four hours. With the addition of bread and
butter it makes a hearty meal, and costs about twenty-two
cents.
Beef Pie. Cut in two
inch pieces two pounds of the neck of beef, (cost
twelve cents,) brown them quickly in one ounce of drippings,
(cost one cent,) season them with pepper and salt,
put them into a pudding dish in layers with one cents’
worth of chopped onion, and one quart of potatoes,
(cost three cents,) peeled and sliced; add enough cold
water to cover the beef and vegetables, and put over
them a crust made of one pound of flour, (cost four
cents,) and quarter of a pound of lard, (cost three
cents,) put it for fifteen minutes into a hot oven,
and then bake for an hour and a half in a moderate
one. It will cost less than twenty-five cents,
and be an abundant meal.
Baked Heart. Thoroughly
wash a beef’s heart, (cost ten cents,) stuff
it with half a loaf of stale bread, (cost two cents,)
moistened with warm water and seasoned with one teaspoonful
of salt, quarter of a teaspoonful each of pepper,
chopped parsley and sweet herbs, an onion chopped,
and one ounce of sweet drippings (cost of all these
two cents;) lay it in a dripping pan with five cents’
worth of parsnips scraped and washed, and bake in
a moderate oven about two hours. It may be baked
in an earthen jar, like the oxtail stew, and all its
goodness will be saved.
Parsnips are exceedingly nutritious
and cheap, but if they are not liked potatoes may
be substituted for them.
The entire dinner with bread and butter
will cost about twenty-five cents.
Stewed Kidneys and Potatoes. Wash
one quart of potatoes, (cost three cents,) pare off
one ring from each, and put them to boil in well salted
boiling water. Choose a very fresh beef’s
kidney, (cost fifteen cents,) cut it in thin slices,
removing all the white vessels and membranes, fry
it quickly for five minutes in one ounce of smoking
hot drippings, (cost one cent,) season it with half
a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a teaspoonful
of pepper, a teaspoonful each of chopped parsley, onion,
and vinegar; shake into it from the dredging box one
tablespoonful of flour, add one pint of boiling water,
and boil gently for fifteen minutes. By this
time the potatoes will be done, and both dishes must
be served at once, because the kidneys will grow tough
and indigestible if they are cooked more than twenty
minutes in all. They will make a plentiful dinner,
including bread and butter, for about twenty-five cents.
Pig’s Kidneys may be cooked
in the same manner, and enough can be bought for ten
cents to make a good sized dish.
Kidney Pudding. Cut the
kidneys, season, and stew them as above, making meantime
a crust from one pound of flour, two teaspoonfulls
of salt, and one of baking powder, sifted together;
mix into these ingredients four ounces of finely chopped
suet, (cost two cents,) make them into a paste with
about one pint of cold water; use part of this to line
a deep pudding dish, into which put the stewed kidneys;
cover the dish with the rest of the paste, and bake
it about an hour and a quarter in a regular, moderately
hot oven. The pudding will cost about thirty cents.
Gammon Dumpling. Make
a plain paste of one pound of flour, (cost four cents,)
one dessertspoonful of salt, and one of baking powder,
quarter of a pound of finely chopped suet or scraps,
(cost two cents,) and sufficient cold water to mix
it to a stiff dough; roll this out about half an inch
thick, spread over it half a pound of any cheap cut
of bacon or ham, finely chopped, (cost six cents,)
roll up the dumpling as you would a roly-poly pudding,
tie it tightly in a clean cloth, and boil it in boiling
water, or boiling pot-liquor, for about three hours.
Do not let the pot stop boiling, or the dumpling will
be heavy. Serve it hot, with one quart of plain
boiled potatoes, (cost three cents.) The dinner will
cost fifteen cents.
Bacon and Apple Roly-poly. Boil
a pound of bacon, (cost twelve cents,) for half an
hour; then slice it thin; peel and slice three cents’
worth of apples and the same quantity of onions; make
a stiff dough of one pound of flour, (cost four cents,)
a teaspoonful of salt, and cold water; roll it out
half an inch thick; lay the bacon, apples, and onion
all over it, roll it up, tie it tightly in a clean
cloth, and boil it about two hours, in plenty of boiling
water. Serve it with three cents’ worth
of boiled potatoes, or boiled cabbage. The dinner
will cost twenty-five cents.
Mutton and Onions. Choose
a shoulder of mutton weighing about three pounds,
which you can buy at six cents a pound; wipe it thoroughly
with a damp cloth, put it into a pot half full of
boiling water, with a tablespoonful of salt, and boil
it gently for two hours, skimming the pot as often
as any scum rises. Half an hour before it is done
slice one quart of onions, (cost five cents,) boil
them in a pint of boiling water for about twenty minutes,
add one ounce of butter, (cost two cents,) half a
pint of milk, (cost two cents,) four tablespoonfuls
of flour (cost one cent,) one teaspoonful of salt,
and pepper to taste. When you have put the onions
over the fire, pare rings off a quart of potatoes,
(cost three cents,) and boil them in well salted boiling
water. Have all three dishes ready at once, and
serve them together hot. Save the broth from
the mutton, and the next morning boil it up once, and
serve it for breakfast, with half a loaf of stale
bread, toasted, and cut in dice; or boil in it for
twenty minutes a quarter of a pound of rice or macaroni.
The dinner will cost you about thirty
cents, and you have on hand the broth for breakfast.
Pork and Onions. Three
pounds of the neck, or spare ribs, of fresh pork,
which you can buy at the packing houses for three cents
a pound, can be made into a capital dinner, which
will cost only about twenty cents, by following the
above receipt.
Veal and Rice. Put the
scrag end of a neck of veal, which you can usually
buy for ten cents, into a pot half full of boiling
water, with a half tablespoonful of salt, and half
a pound of bacon, or salt pork, (cost six cents,)
half a pound of rice, (cost five cents,) and an onion
stuck with six cloves; boil it gently for three hours,
and then serve it hot, the meat in the middle of the
platter, and the rice laid around it. The broth
may be served for breakfast, as in the receipt for
MUTTON AND ONIONS.
The dinner will cost about twenty cents.
Irish Stew. Cut two pounds
of the flank of beef, (cost fifteen cents, or less,)
in pieces about two inches square, rub them well with
pepper and salt; peel and slice one quart of onions,
(cost five cents;) place beef and onions in a saucepan,
with just enough cold water to cover them, and stew
them gently for one and a half hours; then add one
quart of peeled potatoes, (cost three cents,) and
boil the stew until the potatoes are soft, which will
be in about twenty minutes. Serve at once hot.
The dish will cost twenty-three cents.
Sheep’s Haslet. Peel
and slice one quart of onions, (cost five cents;)
wash and slice a sheep’s haslet, (cost six cents;)
put two ounces of drippings, (cost two cents,) in
the bottom of a dripping pan, strew the onions upon
it, and lay the haslet on them, seasoning it with a
teaspoonful of salt, and one of thyme, savory, allspice,
and pepper, using equal parts of each; add enough
water to reach halfway to the top of the meat, then
cover it thickly with the crumbs from half a loaf of
stale bread, and bake all together for one hour and
a half, in a moderate oven. The whole dish will
not cost over seventeen cents, and it is nutritious
and savory. Baked Pig’s Head. Buy
at a packing house half a medium sized pig’s
head, which you can get for three or four cents a
pound, (the piece will cost about ten cents;) clean
and wash it well; pare and slice one quart of onions,
(cost five cents;) chop quarter of a pound of suet,
(cost two cents,) and grate half a loaf of stale bread,
(cost three cents;) put into a dripping pan one ounce
of drippings, (cost one cent,) one gill of vinegar,
(cost one cent,) then the onions, next the head, skin
up, and last the bread, suet, and seasoning, well
mixed, and bake in a moderate oven for about one and
a half hours. The dish will cost about twenty-two
cents; it is hearty and extremely nutritious.