It is essential for the invalid, before
undertaking a journey to Minnesota, to know the best
points, both as regards matters of accommodation and
of location. For there is, even in this State,
considerable choice for patients; while for tourists,
any point offering attractions is the place for them.
We shall briefly consider the whole subject, but first
with regard to the former class.
The city of St. Paul, an account of
which has been previously given, is the most natural
place to make the first stop; and it is a bright,
cheerful, busy city in which to while away the time.
Its location is healthful, as well as beautiful, and
invalids may remain there with perhaps as great advantage
as at any point in the State, especially in the winter
season.
MINNEAPOLIS,
situated on the west bank of the Mississippi
River, opposite the Falls of St. Anthony, and less
than an hour’s ride by rail from St. Paul, with
a direct line to Milwaukee, enjoys, at present,
the widest celebrity among invalids as a place of
resort. This town is on a nearly level plain
adjoining the Mississippi River at the Falls of St.
Anthony, and possesses a population of thirteen thousand.
It is perhaps, par excellence, the most wide-awake
and flourishing city in the State; and, while not
over a dozen years of age, exhibits, in the elegance
and cost of its private dwellings, its spacious stores,
its first-class and well-kept hotel, the Nicollet
House, its huge factories and thundering machinery driven
by that more than Titanic power of the great and wondrous
Falls, evidence of a solid prosperity.
Scores of invalids may be found in
this town at the hotels and various private boarding-houses,
of which there are quite a number.
Many visiting the State for health,
leave without that improvement they should have obtained,
owing to irregular habits and indulgences, which are
directly traceable to their associations, rather than
to any objectionable habits they may possess.
The temptation, when time hangs heavy on their hands,
to join in billiards, euchre, and tea-parties, keeping
the mind unduly excited and leading to late hours,
is fatal to every benefit derived from the climate.
If friends can accompany the invalid, giving society
and controlling their life and habits, they thereby
insure against these liabilities to a very great extent.
There is much in the vicinity of Minneapolis
to interest the visitor. Days may be spent in
examining the Falls of St. Anthony, which roar and
surge along the rapids, impressing one with an appalling
sense of their mighty power.
The suspension bridge, connecting
the city with that of St. Anthony on the east bank
of the river, is an interesting object. It was
erected several years since at an expense of over
half a hundred thousand dollars, and is the only bridge
of its class on the whole river.
Take the towns of St. Paul and Minneapolis,
together with the intervening country, and perhaps
no portion of the Union east of the Rocky Mountains,
presents so many objects of interest as does this
particular region. St. Paul is itself a noble
town, and the prospect from its highest elevations
quite entertaining; while at the latter city the Falls
of St. Anthony are “a sight to behold,”
and make up what the town lacks in striking scenery.
The country between the two cities
is as pleasing in general outline as any to be found.
Of course, it lacks that romantic element so characteristic
of New England, yet its general character is more rolling
than that of most of the prairie country found in the
West.
A drive from either city is “the
thing” for the visitor to do. From Minneapolis
one of the most charming drives in the world, for its
length, can be had. Passing over the suspension
bridge to the east side of the river, and down by
it to the Silver Cascade and Bridal-veil Falls, which
charm from their exquisite beauty, then on to the junction
of the Mississippi and Minnesota Rivers at Fort Snelling,
and across by the rope-ferry under the tall battlements
of the frowning fort, whose edge is on a line with
the towering, perpendicular bluff two hundred feet
above your head, round by the road and up to the plain
above, and into the inclosure of this old-time fortification,
where, leaving your carriage, you proceed to the round
tower, or look out of the fort, and on the very pinnacle
of both cliff and battlement you may gaze out and
over a spectacle more grand and beautiful than anything
we know short of the White Hills. Away to the
right stretches the valley of the Minnesota River,
while before you the “Father of Waters”
receives into his embraces the waters of the Minnesota,
then, sweeping to the left, rolls slowly and majestically
from view behind the companion bluffs of the eastern
shore.
Here, from this crowning tower has
floated for more than half a century the
“star-spangled banner” of our country,
giving to the early settler an assurance of protection;
proclaiming equality and freedom to all peoples who
come hither in search of new homes, and to each and
all a sense of increased dignity and importance as
they stand underneath its ample folds.
A short distance across the open prairie
and up the river toward Minneapolis on
the return is the famed
MINNEHAHA FALLS.
Longfellow’s exquisite picture in
words of these falls seems so perfect and
complete that we cannot forbear to quote it. He
says:
“Sweet Minne-ha-ha like a child
at play,
Comes gaily dancing o’er her pebbly
way,
’Till reaching with surprise the
rocky ledge,
With gleeful laugh bounds from its crested
edge.”
And what can we say of them that shall
be new or of fresh interest either to those who have
read of, or what is better, have seen them? After
viewing and listening to their laughing-leap we easily
understand the fitness of the name they bear the
“Laughing Waters.”
The first sight of the falls is captivating,
and there seems little of praise which you could wish
to withhold. They are the very antipodes of those
of Niagara instead of volume and power inspiring
awe, they win your love and enhance your views of
the beautiful and good.
The waters
“Flash and gleam among the oak trees,
Laugh and leap into the valley,”
and move gaily and gleefully among
the maples, oaks, and vines which line and wreathe
its banks; rivalling in song the wild birds that linger
in the cool shadows of the embowering trees.
Minnehaha Creek has its rise in Lake
Minnetonka, a dozen miles or more distant, where it
is quite a diminutive little brook; from thence runs
to and through Lakes Calhoun and Harriet, meandering
along the surface of the country, till it makes its
graceful leap at the falls to the chasm, some forty
feet below, then empties into the Mississippi about
half-a-mile distant to the eastward. The width
of the stream and falls does net much exceed twenty
feet.
We lingered long, and reluctantly
turned our feet away from this enchanting scene where
both real and imaginary heroes and heroines have dwelt,
and in the bright waters of which their picturesque
encampments have been often mirrored.
St. Anthony opposite Minneapolis is
one of the oldest towns in the State, and was, in
ante bellum times, quite a fashionable resort
for the Southerners. The war ended that, while
the latter city gave to it its final coup de grace,
and soon after the business set to the west bank of
the river.
Its chief object of interest is the
State University, which has but just entered upon
its career of usefulness.
Tourists will enjoy a few days in
and around Minneapolis. It is the centre of a
number of attractive objects of natural curiosity.
A drive to Lake Calhoun and a day’s sport in
fishing is both practicable and pleasant.
We cannot regard the City of St. Anthony
as equalling Minneapolis as a place of residence in
point of health. Even in the latter city it is
important that a home be had as remote from the neighborhood
of the Falls as is convenient. Its adaptability
to the needs of the invalid consists more in the walks
and drives, the ample boarding-house and hotel accommodations,
good markets, and cheerful, pleasant society, than
in the particular location of the town itself or in
the character of the soil on which it is built.
Beyond, and on the line of the St.
Paul and Pacific Branch Railroad now
owned and operated by the Northern Pacific Railroad the
towns of Anoka and St. Cloud, both on the banks of
the “great river,” are either more desirable
for invalids than most other points in the State within
our knowledge, so far as location is concerned.
They are high and dry above the river, and possess
a soil in and around them of a loose sandy character,
for the most part every way favorable to good drainage
and dryness. The towns themselves are quite small,
yet accommodations might be found for a large number
in the aggregate. The hotels offer no special
temptation to guests beyond those of the ordinary
private family in the way of home comforts and conveniences.
The people are kind, intelligent, and obliging to strangers;
as, indeed, they are elsewhere in the State.
Yet there is always a more hearty and cordial salutation
among the inhabitants of towns who are anxious to
secure good reputations and thereby enlarge their borders.
There is some hunting and fishing
near both of these places, as, indeed, there is at
most all points in the interior.
Near St. Cloud are Pleasant, Grand,
Briggs, and Rice’s Lakes, where fishing and
rowing may be had, while the country eastward of the
town affords fair hunting.
It is quite an advantage to any place,
from an invalid standpoint, that the surrounding country
affords them abundant means whereby the mind may be
occupied and kept from crooning over the memories of
loved ones far away, or brooding upon their own misfortunes.
On the St. Paul and Pacific Main
Line also controlled and owned by the Northern
Pacific Road are a number of attractive
and healthful places, where ample accommodations may
be had for the invalid, and where those who come to
construct new homes will find cheap lands and good
society.
The chief points are, after passing
Minneapolis, Lake Minnetonka, Dassel, Smith Lake,
Litchfield, and Wilmar. At the latter place there
is a very pretty lake close to the village, with numerous
others within a circuit of ten miles, and all are
well stocked with fish; and in the spring and fall
wild-fowl ducks, geese, swans, and all our
migrating birds, frequent them in great numbers.
Moose are occasionally seen a few miles west of the
town, between it and the Chippewa River
in considerable droves. There is a very nice
hotel at this point, kept by an obliging host.
At Litchfield, good society and a
somewhat larger village is encountered, but with less
of sporting and outdoor amusements. Near this
place resides the invalid son of Senator Howard of
Michigan. He came to the State a confirmed consumptive,
having hemorrhages and in that state of “general
debility” incident to this disease, but is now
in good health, the result of the climate and out-of-door
exercise in which he has freely indulged, having taken
a farm and rolled up his sleeves, determined to save
himself as he has.
It cannot be expected that a brief
sojourn in this State will work any marvellous cure.
Herein lies one of the principal difficulties.
A patient comes to Minnesota, and, having heard much
of its power to restore the enfeebled, expects to
become strong and well within a few days. They
should disabuse their minds of this error before they
start from home. The process of restoration with
the consumptive is slow, as a rule, though some recover,
it is true, very rapidly, yet with the most a year
is as little time as can reasonably be expected for
climate and exercise to complete a cure. It is
better, if the climate is found to agree, to make
the State a permanent home. A return to the old
climate and occupation in which the disease originated
is only to court its reappearance.
Lake Minnetonka, the place first above
mentioned, is, however, the point for both
pleasure-seekers and invalids who are well enough to
“rough it.” An hour’s ride from
St. Paul brings you to this, the most lovely of all
the lakes in the State, to our thinking. It is
really a series of lakes, all bounded by irregular
shores; while, in places, occur deep bays and inlets,
giving picturesqueness and beauty beyond all ordinary
fancyings.
Near the railway station are two hotels
(the furthest being the best), where good fare, and
at reasonable rates, can be had, with row-boats thrown
in, ad libitum. This lake is one of the
pleasure resorts for the people of both St. Paul and
Minneapolis. Excursion tickets are sold for every
train running thither, and many go up simply to enjoy
a day’s fishing and sailing.
There is a little steamer running
from near the railway station, which is close to the
edge of the lake, to the village of Excelsior, six
miles distant, near which lives one of the best guides
to the fishing grounds of the lake. But a guide
is not at all essential to the amateur, or those in
simple quest of fun, pleasure, or health, since the
fish here are so plentiful that all will have luck,
whether they have experience or not.
Near “Round Island,” and
off “Spirit Knob,” in this lake, are favorite
haunts of the fish, yet the “big ones”
are not plentiful now at these points, though their
resorts are well known to most of the old fishermen.
To tell of the size and abundance
of the fish here will, perhaps, court disbelief; yet
we state “what we know,” when we say that
a single fisherman starting, with the “guide”
before referred to, at eight o’clock in the
morning, came to the wharf at noon after
rowing a distance of six miles to make port with
a catch of about one hundred weight of fish, chiefly
pickerel, one of which weighed twelve pounds, and
measured near three feet in length. Another and
less successful party of two, instead of catching
a “big one,” came near being caught by
him. It was a funny incident altogether.
They were from “down east,” where pickerel
don’t weigh over a pound or so, on the average,
unless fed on shot after being hauled in, all
out of pure regard for the hungry and worried creatures,
of course. Well, this party, all enthusiastic
and eager, cast the line, when, lo! a monster pickerel
gobbled the bait and away he went, carrying the floats
under and the fisherman over and into the watery deep,
with his heel and head just above water level only.
The fish, including the “odd one,” were
subsequently pulled in by the man in the boat who is
accustomed to “takes.”
Boarding can be had, at the hotels
and private houses in the vicinity of the lake, at
from seven to ten dollars per week. For the summer
season, country life should by all means be the rule.
In the inclement portions of the year the towns are
most desirable; St. Paul and Minneapolis taking the
lead as places of resort, and they are, at these seasons,
the most desirable.
In the vicinity of St. Paul there
are a number of lakes. The nearest, Lake Como,
is a pretty sheet of water, and affords one of the
fashionable drives out of the city. It is intended,
we believe, in the near future, by the authorities
of St. Paul, to incorporate it, with several hundred
acres, into a grand park and pleasure-grounds.
It should be done.
White Bear Lake, a dozen miles out
on the Lake Superior and M. Railroad, is a favorite
place with all classes. Its shores are thickly
wooded and the fishing rivals that of Minnetonka.
There are a score of boats anchored on the shore of
this lake awaiting visitors; and the two hotels provide
for the needful rest and comfort of guests. This
point is second in interest only to that of Minnetonka
Lake for both invalids and pleasure-seekers during
the summer and fall months.
Up the Minnesota valley, while it
is the most attractive in scenery and most fertile
in crops, is not quite as desirable for the invalid
as the places already named. Though Shakopee,
Le Sueur, St. Peter’s, and Madelia
are not very objectionable in a sanitary point of view.
Still the valley is sloping, and its
villages and towns are, for the most part, situated
on the low lands, and cannot have as dry or desirable
an atmosphere for patients as some other places.
Yet the exceptions noted above are, perhaps, above
the average in health so far as location is concerned.
If, however, any invalid has relatives or friends
living in the State and can find a home among them,
then, even if the location was not as good as other
points, this would be counterbalanced by other advantages
such as come from being among them.
The principle town of this valley
is Mankato. This is destined to outstrip many
of those places which at present outrank it. It
must become the most important railroad centre in
the State outside of the capital. Situate in
the very heart of the most fertile district, and possessing
a population both industrious and enterprising, its
future is bright and promising to a high degree.
Its location is unfavorable for invalids, and should,
as a rule, be avoided by them. Fogs occur here,
and the place is low, and soil too rich, and of a generally
too wet character to insure the highest health to
delicate and enfeebled visitors.
The Falls of Minneopa are near here
and are worth a visit from the tourist. Some
esteem them as excelling in attractiveness any and
all others in the State.
The prairies beyond Mankato, along
the St. Paul and Sioux City Railway, afford the best
“chicken” shooting that we know of, and
much of the hunting for this game is done along the
line of this road.
The southeastern section of the State,
in which are situated Rochester, Owatonna, and Austin,
and other budding cities, is, at present, with the
valley of the Minnesota, the great wheat-growing region.
But it is not alone in the cultivation of serials
that the farmers may become “fore-handed.”
The climate is favorable to nearly all of the products
of the middle and northern portions of the Union,
with some kinds of fruit excepted. Indeed, we
found growing in the garden of Horace Thompson, in
St. Paul, the southern cotton-plant, which (while the
seed had not been planted by ten days as early as
it might have been in the spring) was in bloom in
August, and by September it had begun to boll, and
another fortnight would have easily matured portions
of the same. This illustrates in a general way
the length and power of the growing season in this
State. The climate, so far as crops are concerned,
is perhaps a counterpart of New England.
Here, in this southeast section, are
the handsome homes and well-filled barns of an industrious
and thrifty people. The traveller through this
beautiful portion of the State can scarce keep from
breaking one of the ten commandments as he witnesses
a people so well to do and so happy in the possession
of their productive acres.
Here, all immigrants may, by following
out to the terminus of the penetrating railways, find
cheap and good lands awaiting them, and where just
as beautiful homes may be made as in that portion nearer
the river now teeming with life and industries but
which, a few brief years since, was as desolate and
untenanted as are the unbroken prairies to the westward.
The prices vary, according to location and character,
from five to fifteen dollars per acre, though a majority
of the wild lands can be had at from six to eight
dollars. The “St. Paul and Sioux City Road”
have thousands of acres along their line which they
are ready and anxious to dispose of to settlers.
The value of these lands is usually doubled the moment
they are broken and occupied even with but inferior
buildings only so that shelter is obtained.
For “new comers,” wishing new lands, this
road and that of the “St. Paul and Pacific Main
Line Railway,” at Wilmar, and on to the fertile
valley of the Red River, afford, in our judgment,
the best lands. This latter road, now that it
is under the control of the Northern Pacific Railway
Company, is destined to play an important part in
the settlement and development of that vast region so
rich in agricultural wealth lying along
the Red, Saskatchawan, and Assiniboine Rivers.
It must indeed prove the link which some day, in the
near future, will bind the new province of Manitoba
and the adjacent country to the northwest of it.
It is, indeed, the intention of the
Northern Pacific Road to construct from the point
of junction of the St. Paul and Duluth arms, on the
Red River, a branch road, northward to Pembina, and
it cannot be long ere it will be continued to Hudson’s
Bay.
The trade and travel between British
America and the States, overland from the present
terminal points of the arms from St. Paul of the N.P.R.,
is quite considerable, giving constant employment,
during the summer and fall, to about one thousand
ox-teams. Goods from all parts of Europe and
the States are obliged for the most part to take this
route. The distance overland is about four hundred
and fifty miles. It is a singular and picturesque
sight to witness one of these trains, whether coming
in or departing. They sometimes number a hundred
teams, though oftener much less. They are all
single ox-teams, the vehicles being two-wheeled.
A convenient sort of harness is used on the oxen, not
unlike, in style, that on our truck horses. One
driver a half-breed usually manages
a half-dozen teams by tying the heads of the five to
the rear of each cart and then leading the sixth or
foremost team by means of a raw-hide rope attached
to the animal’s head. One thousand pounds
constitutes a load for a strong ox. Thus stoves,
flour, implements of agriculture, bales of goods,
and even boxes of choice wines from France, marked
“For the Bishop of Prince Rupert’s Land,
via St. Paul, U.S.A.” Either the body of
the church or that of the bishop must be large, judging
from the quantity of these wet goods which we saw
moving to the frontier.
There is a freshness in Western life
that charms one, especially at the first. New
scenes, new faces, new customs, new methods of speech,
combine to give a delight to this experience of novelty.
There is a mental exhilaration that tones the mind
to a high pitch of enthusiasm and rich enjoyment,
just as there is a marvellous quality in the air to
brace the system and strengthen the nervous centres.
Who that has gone through this double process of acclimation,
as one might call it, does not retain a good impression
of their experience in memory, and likewise in physique?
The dialect of the West differs from
that of the East in many of the non-essentials, yet,
perhaps, enough of variance is observed to make it
noticeable and altogether piquant to the wide-awake
Yankee, who, in turn, balances the Western “reckoning”
by his unique “kalkilations.” But
neither are as absurd as the Cockney, who gets off
his ridiculous nonsense, as, for example, the following:
“Ho Lord, help us to take hold of the horns
of the haltar,” etc.
The observant mind can, by keeping
eyes and ears open, extract much of information and
amusement when travelling anywhere especially
through the West where vigorous thought
and action are at all times encountered.