When Hayes and I quarrelled, the American
trader, “Harry,” who had hitherto stood
by “Bully” sided with me, with the result
that Hayes passionately declared that both of us were
at the bottom of a conspiracy to lower his prestige
and lessen his authority, not only with the other
white men but with the natives as well. This was
an utterly unfounded accusation, for we liked the
man, but did not like the way in which he had treated
the deputation of Strong’s Islanders, who protested
against his permitting the continual abduction of
young Kusaiean girls by members of his crew.
I had brought the deputation to him,
for Harry and myself were persona grata with
the natives, who all knew that Hayes had a great liking
for us. But to my astonishment and indignation,
“Bully” turned on me furiously, called
me a meddlesome young fool, prefixing the “fool”
with some very strong adjectives, and then, losing
all control of himself, he sprang at one of the members
of the deputation the youngest and strongest and
lifting him up in his arms, literally forced the unfortunate
young man out of the house not by the door,
but through the side, tearing a hole in the thin lattice
woodwork big enough to admit a bollock. The remainder
of the deputation at once retired, and, as I have
mentioned in the previous chapter, “Bully”
and myself parted, each deeply incensed.
Harry, who had a large following of
wild, intractable Pleasant Islanders, all of whom
were armed with Snider rifles, moved over to the opposite
shore of Utwe Harbour with “the three Graces
and the fourth chucked in,” promising to come
and see me at Leasse after he had “settled down
a bit.”
My reason for removing to Leasse was
that I knew the place very well through frequent visits
there, and Eusis, the head man or chief, had constantly
pressed me to come there and live; so a few hours after
my quarrel with Hayes I made a start, accompanied
by two Strong’s Islanders named Sru and Nana,
both of whom came from Leasse, and were delighted
that I was leaving Utwe to come to their own village.
They assured me that I was doing wisely
in leaving the captain, that the people of Leasse
would gladly receive me, and that I would find great
pig-hunting and pigeon-shooting among the dense forests
that lay at the back of the village.
Our way lay over the waters of a deep
but winding lagoon, which from Utwe to Coquille Harbour
is bounded on the ocean side by a chain of narrow,
thickly wooded, and fertile islets, the haunt of myriads
of sea-birds and giant robber crabs. This chain
of islets lay on our left hand; on our right the steep,
forest-clad mountains of Strong’s Island rose
abruptly from the still waters of the lagoon.
The lagoon itself averaged about a mile in width,
and here and there, dotted upon its placid, glassy
surface, were tiny isolated islets of perhaps not more
than an acre in extent, but covered with a dense mass
of the loveliest verdure imaginable, from the centre
of which rose a group of half a dozen or so of stately
coco-nut palms. Each islet was encircled by a
snow-white beach, descending abruptly to the water,
the great depth of which enabled us to paddle within
a foot or so of the shore.
We had left Utwe just after daylight,
and though the trade-wind was blowing freshly outside
and we could hear the thunder of the ocean rollers
pounding on the outside reef beyond the encircling
chain of islets half a mile away, scarcely the faintest
breath of air disturbed the blue depths of the lagoon.
The canoe was light and our three paddles sent her
over the waters at a great rate. My two companions
were both young men, and, unlike most of the people
of Strong’s Island, who are a reserved and melancholy
race, they laughed and sang merrily to the strokes
of their red-stained paddles.
Here and there, as we skimmed along
the shore of the forest-clad mountains of the mainland,
we would pass a village of six or seven houses, and
the small-made, light-complexioned folk would, as they
heard the sound of our voices, come out and eagerly
beseech us to come in “and eat and rest awhile.”
But pleased as I would have been to
have landed and accepted their hospitality for
I was known to every native on the island my
crew urged me not to delay so early on our journey.
Sometimes, however, these kindly-hearted people would
not be denied, and boys and girls would run parallel
to our canoe along the beach and implore Sru and Nana
and the “white man” to stay “just
a little, just a very, very little time, and tell
them the news from Utwe.”
And then, as we rested on our paddles
and talked, under pretence of getting closer to us
they would dash into the water and seizing the gunwales
of the canoe laughingly insist upon our coming ashore
and entering their cool houses, and indeed it was
hard to resist their blandishments. Then, once
we were inside, they would tell us that they would
not let us go till we had eaten and drunk a little.
A little! Basket after basket
of cooked fish, crayfish, pigeons, baked pork, bunches
of bananas and kits of oranges and heaps of luscious
pineapples would be placed before us, and they seemed
absolutely pained at my inability to eat more than
a few mouthfuls. All the men at these isolated
villages were away at Leasse or elsewhere in the vicinity
of Coquille Harbour, and the women and young girls
pretended to be very much frightened at being left
by themselves for a couple of days. They were
afraid, they said, that Captain Hayes’s wild
Pleasant Island natives might come up the lagoon and
harry their villages wouldn’t we
stay with them till their husbands and brothers came
back?
Now, we knew all this was nonsense.
There was no fear of the Pleasant Islanders’
boats coming up the lagoon to these little villages
when there was richer prey nearer at hand, so we only
laughed. Many of the young boys and girls were
of great personal beauty, and, indeed, so were many
of the young unmarried women, but their light skins
were stained and disfigured by the application of
turmeric. At one of these places our pretty tormentors
played us a trick. While we were in a house and
having kava prepared in the Micronesian fashion, by
pounding the green root into a hollowed stone, the
girls carried our canoe up bodily from the beach and
hid it in a clump of breadfruit trees about two hundred
yards away. When we bade goodbye to the elder
women, who had given us the kava, and walked down
to the beach the canoe was gone.
“Here, you girls,” said
Nana, “where is our canoe? Don’t play
these foolish tricks; the white man must get to Leasse
before darkness sets in.”
But the imps only laughed at us, and
for some minutes we had a great game with them, chasing
them about. At last we tired of this, and, lighting
our pipes, sat down to smoke under a great banyan,
whose branches reached far out over the white beaches.
One of the children, a merry-eyed girl of ten, with
long hair that almost touched her knees, was a bit
of a humorist, and told us that we might as well stay
for the night, as the canoe was gone for ever.
“Where to?” we asked.
“Up there,” she answered,
with the gravest countenance imaginable, pointing
skyward. “A big kanapu (fish eagle) was
soaring overhead, and suddenly swooped down and seized
it in his claws and flew away into the blue with it.”
At last, however, they came back,
carrying the canoe among them, and with much laughter
dropped it into the water. Then they filled it
with as many young drinking coco-nuts and as much
fruit as we could stow, and bade us farewell, running
along the beach with us till a high, steep bluff shut
them off from following us any further.
By and by, as we paddled along, the
sun began to get pretty hot, and we kept in as close
as possible under the shade of the steep shores of
the mainland. Overhead was a sky of matchless,
cloudless blue, and sailing to and fro on motionless
wing were numbers of tropic birds, their long scarlet
retrices showing in startling contrast to their snow-white
body plumage. All round about us turtle would
rise every now and then, and taking a look at us,
sink out of sight again. From the dense mountain
forest, that earlier in the morning had resounded with
the heavy booming note of the great grey pigeons and
the cooing note of the little purple doves, not a
sound now came forth, for the birds were roosting in
the shade from the heat of the sun. Half a mile
or so away, through a break in the chain of low islets,
we could see the tumbling blue of the ocean, and over
the tree-tops the white spume of the breakers as they
leapt upon the iron-bound coast.
We made fast our canoe to a jutting
point of rock and rested awhile and smoked. The
tide was on the flow, and as the water came swirling
and eddying in from the great passage in the reef
five miles away, there came with it countless thousands
of fish of the mullet species, seeking their food
among the mangrove creeks and flats that lay behind
us. They did not swim in an orderly, methodical
fashion, but leapt and spun and danced about as if
thrown up out of the water by some invisible power
beneath. Sometimes they would rise simultaneously,
thousands at a time, and, taking a leap, descend again
with an extraordinary noise. Then, quick as lightning,
they would make three or four such leaps in succession
with the regularity and precision of machinery.
Hovering and fluttering above them on tireless wing
were numbers of sea-birds, which ever and again darted
down amongst them and rose with hoarse, triumphant
note, prey in mouth.
We lay resting quietly till the incoming
tide had spent its strength, and then once more pushed
out into the transparent depths of the lagoon.
Bight ahead of us, after another hour’s paddling,
lay a long, gleaming point of sand covered with a
grove of palms; beyond that a wide sweep of pale green
shallow water; beyond that again the wild tumble and
fret of the surf on the barrier reef.
Laying down our paddles for
we were now in shallow water we took up
our three long canoe poles, and striking them on the
hard, sandy bottom in unison we sent the canoe spinning
round to the point, and as we rounded it there lay
before us the brown roofs of the village of Leasse
nestling under the shade of its groves. This was,
as I have said, to be my home for many long but happy
months.