The moment we came in sight of the
village, Nana, the native who was for’ard, stood
up and gave a loud cry, which was immediately answered
by some invisible person near us; and then the cry
was taken up by some one else nearer the village.
In a few minutes we saw the people coming out of their
queer-looking, saddle-backed dwellings and running
down to the beach, where, by the time we shot the
canoe up on the sand, the whole population was gathered
to welcome us.
Standing a little in front of the
rest of the villagers was the head man, swarthy-faced,
clean-shaved Kusis; beside him Tulpe, his wife,
a graceful young woman of about five-and-twenty, and
her husband’s little daughter by a former wife.
This child was named Kinie, a merry-faced, laughing-voiced
sprite, ten years of age, with long, wavy, and somewhat
unkempt hair hanging down over her shining copper-coloured
shoulders.
Kusis spoke English well, and the
moment I got out of the canoe he shook hands with
me, his wife and daughter following suit, and said
he was glad that I had left the settlement at Utwe;
that King Togusa and Queen Se had sent him word that
I intended leaving the other white men, and that if
I came to Leasse or any other Tillage on the lee side
of the island I was to be well cared for; “but,”
he added, “you an’ me will talk ’bout
this by and by. Come first to my house, and eat
and smoke.”
Here an old man, renowned as a great
wild boar hunter, thrust himself through the surrounding
crowd, and asked my name. His keen, wrinkled
visage was all but enshrouded by a mass of snowy-white
hair that made him present a very curious appearance much
like that of a Poland fowl. He shook hands with
me vigorously, and then made a speech to the others,
pointing his finger alternately at myself and then
to his own breast. Knowing but little of the
difficult Strong’s Island language, I was at
first under the impression that the old man was not
pleased at the advent of a white man; but I was soon
pleasantly undeceived, for at the conclusion of his
speech every man, woman, and child came up in turn
and solemnly shook hands with me.
Motioning to Sru and Nana my
crew to hand my few little effects, which
consisted of clothing, tobacco, and a Winchester rifle
and ammunition, out of the canoe, the whole party
of us started off for Kusis’s house, the old
pig-hunter proudly carrying the Winchester in advance,
and Kusis and his wife each holding one of my hands.
Not one of them now spoke a word,
and only that it would have given serious offence,
the temptation to laugh at being led about like a
child was very great. In another minute or two
we reached the head man’s house, a handsome,
well-built structure of coral stone, with a thatched
roof and cane-work floor raised some two feet or so
off the ground. Here all the males in the company
sat down to eat, while the women waited upon them.
In the whole village there were but
a hundred people, and, with the exception of two or
three young men who were away turtle-catching, they
were now all present. After we had finished eating,
Kusis repeated the King’s message to me, and
wanted to know what I intended to do to
live at Leasse, or “go and look at the other
places along the coast, and see if there was a better
place than Leasse?”
Leasse, I said, should be my home.
I knew him and some others besides in Leasse, and
liked the place and the people, etcetera. They
appeared very pleased at this, and Eusis at once desired
me to point out the spot whereon my house was to be
built meanwhile I was to live with him till
it was completed. I chose a site about thirty
yards away from where we stood; and then, to show
that no time would be lost, Eusis at once sent five
or six men into the bush to cut posts, and ordered
all the women and girls to begin making the thatch
for the roof and cutting cane for the walls and floor.
I must ask my readers to bear in mind
that the friendship of these people for an almost
unknown white man was inspired by no unworthy motive.
Kusis and his people, as well as the King and Queen,
knew that when the brig was lost I had saved nothing
whatever from the wreck. Such little clothing
as I had with me had been given to me by the young
American trader before mentioned, and old Harry Terry
had given me half a small tierce of tobacco and the
Winchester rifle and cartridges. And shortly
after the wreck of the brig it had been my fortunate
lot to prevent a number of Strong’s Islanders
from serious ill-treatment by some of my white companions,
and for this their gratitude knew no bounds.
I found that the old King, as soon as he heard that
young Harry and myself had separated from the other
white men, had sent messengers to every place on the
island telling them to treat us well. He was,
however, terribly afraid of Harry’s Pleasant
Island natives, and anxious that he should keep them
under control and disarm them. I told Kusis that
the King had no reason to fear any harm coming to his
people from Harry’s followers, who would be
kept well in hand by their master, furthermore that
I had heard Harry threaten to shoot dead the first
man that either robbed or offered violence to any
Strong’s Islander. They seemed much pleased
at this, and told me that in the old days they were
afraid of no one, and were a great fighting people,
but since their conversion to Christianity all the
fight had gone out of them; and, indeed, I found them,
although a generous and amiable race, very cowardly.
During the time my house was being
built I made friends with every boy and girl in the
village; they took an especial delight in taking me
about shooting and fishing. At the rear of Leasse
the forest-clad mountains rise in a gradual but magnificent
sweep to a height of two thousand feet, and on the
second day after my arrival we set out to try and
shoot some wild pigs, with which the dense mountain
jungle abounded. The only adult beside myself
with the party was the old boar hunter Rii.
He was armed with a very heavy wooden spear, with a
keen steel head, shaped like a whaler’s lance,
whilst the rest of the party, who were composed of
boys and girls ranging in years from ten to fifteen,
carried lighter spears. Every girl had two or
three mongrel curs held in a leash. These animals
were, however, well trained in pig-hunting and never
barked until the prey was either being run down or
was brought to bay. Amongst the children were
two half-castes brother and sister.
The boy was about twelve, the girl a couple of years
older. I learnt that their father, who was dead,
was an Englishman, a deserter from a man-of-war.
He had married a girl at Coquille Harbour, and, after
living on Strong’s Island for a few years, had
gone with his wife and children to the Western
Carolines, where he was killed in an attack on
a native fortress, and the woman and boy and girl
had returned to their native land in a whaleship.
The girl spoke English very well, and although she
was naked to the waist when we first started out, a
feeling of modesty made her return to the village
and don a man’s singlet. Old Rii, our
leader, who could not speak a word of English, called
the pair up to me, and, pointing to the boy, said
“Te-o” (Joe), and to the girl, “Lit-si”
(Lizzie). Although they were much lighter in colour
than the rest of our company, I had no idea they had
white blood in their veins till the girl said shyly,
“This is my brother; my father belong to England.”
I afterwards found from her that she only knew her
father as “Bob” his surname
was never known.
For the first mile or two we walked
along the banks of a noisy mountain stream, which
here and there formed into deep pools, with a bottom
of bright blue stones. These pools contained
many fish, as well as vast numbers of crayfish.
One of the girls with us carried fishing-tackle, and
in a few minutes some rods were cut, the hooks baited
with small crayfish, and several fine fish landed.
These were at once cooked, the fires being kindled
on some large, flat basalt stones, which were lying
scattered about on the bank. On inquiring how
these stones came to be there, I was told by “Lizzie”
that they were the remains of an old wall that once
enclosed one of the ancient villages. Afterwards
we came across many similar sites, which seemed to
bear out the statements of Duperrey and other navigators,
that Strong’s Island was once inhabited by over
twenty thousand people. At the present time the
population does not reach five hundred. One of
these places was situated on the summit of a spur
of the great mountain range that traverses the island.
The top of the mountain had been levelled as flat
as a table, and a space of about an acre was covered
with what appeared to be a floor of huge basaltic
prisms, laid closely together. What the purpose
of such gigantic labour was none of my companions
had any idea, and on my inquiring from Lizzie how
these stones, many of which weighed several tons,
were carried to such an extraordinary height up such
a steep ascent, she shook her head, and said, “You
ask Rii. He is a very old man, and not a
Christian, and knows all about the old times.
But please don’ ask me. The missionaries
don’ let us talk of the bad days (i.e., heathen
times).” This put an end to all inquiry
on my part, as old Rii could not speak a word
of English, save a few vigorous expressions he had
acquired from whale-ships and which he was very fond
of using, and I was only just learning the Kusaie
language.
As we travelled up along the sides
of the mountain we saw numbers of large, fat pigeons.
They seemed to feel no alarm whatever at our presence.
Their note, which is very deep and resonant, filled
the air with strange, weird echoes that reverberated
amongst the silence of the mountain forest. On
reaching a little plateau on the side of a spur, old
Rii stopped, and beckoned to us to keep silence,
at the same time sending all the boys below the plateau.
Peering cautiously through the jungle, we saw, lying
down on the moss-covered ground at the butt of a tree,
a sow with her litter. We lay very quiet till
the boys had formed a cordon at the lower edge of
the plateau, so as to cut off escape in that direction,
and then Rii whispered to me to shoot the sow
in the belly, but not to hit any of her litter if
I could help it, as we could easily take them alive
with the dogs. Just as I was about to fire the
old sow raised her head, and I fired at her shoulder.
At the same moment our twenty curs were let go, and
the sow, although the bullet had smashed her shoulder,
at once tore down the plateau, followed by her progeny,
but catching sight of the cordon of boys below, at
once turned, and, injured as she was, made up towards
the summit of the mountain with incredible speed.
Then began the fan, the dogs yelping and howling, and
the boys and girls screaming with excitement, as they
plunged through the undergrowth and vines in pursuit.
Nearly on the summit was a huge tree, with foliage
like an Australian white cedar, and here was the old
pig’s lair, for the soil at its buttressed foot
was scooped out into deep holes.
When we had succeeded in gaining the
top the dogs were running round and round the tree,
making the most horrible din imaginable, but not daring
to venture into the hole where the old sow was.
Suddenly we saw a huge black head, with two great
curved tusks, protrude out of one of the dark recesses,
and the next instant a great black boar burst out and
charged at the dogs, followed by the wounded sow and
five little black-and-yellow suckers. Old as
he Was, Rii showed his prowess, for, calling
out to the boys and girls to see that none of the young
pigs got down the spur, he advanced spear in hand
towards the boar, which, after his first charge, had
backed up to the tree again, and now stood surrounded
by dogs and frothing his savage jaws. Already
he had two or three light spears sticking into his
stomach and rump.
Followed by a couple of girls who
carried baskets of wood ashes, old Rii got to
within a dozen feet of the great brute, and, taking
a basket of ashes, threw it at the boar. It struck
him fair in the face, and the contents smothered his
head and forequarters, blinding him for a second or
two; and then, at the same moment, Rii sprang
forward and plunged his heavy spear deep into the
creature’s bowels. But even then the boar
was game, and, with a terrific snort of rage, made
another charge, only to meet half a dozen spear-thrusts.
A bullet through his head soon finished
him, and then began the chase after the young suckers,
every one of which was caught. Small as they
were, they fought and snapped and bit viciously, and
acted generally like little fiends. As for the
old sow, she was killed by the dogs; she was very
poor and mangy, but the suckers were as round as balls.
Slinging the huge carcase of the boar
from a stout pole, we returned to the village at nightfall.
On the way down my two young half-caste friends told
me that it is a habit peculiar to the wild sows of
Strong’s Island, when rearing their young, to
flee to the lair of the boar when alarmed, and that
sometimes the boar will kill every one of her young
when harassed by dogs, and then, bursting through them,
leave his partner to her fate.
Month after month passed away in the
quiet little village of Leasse without the writer
seeing anything of his former shipmates in the Leonora.
Sometimes Hayes’s boats would come to within
a mile or so of the entrance to Coquille Harbour in
their quests for coco-nuts, but, fortunately for the
peace of the villagers, their crews never ventured
so far as the village itself. Perhaps, indeed,
they did not know where it was, for the high-peaked,
saddle-backed houses were embowered in a thick grove
of breadfruit and durian-trees about half a mile from
the beach; and only the white curling smoke arising
from the fires as the women cooked the morning and
evening meals would have revealed its presence.
One peaceful, monotonously happy day
followed another till at last, in the first flush
of one bright tropic sunrise, a stately British man-of-war
rounded the north end of the island, and furling her
snow-white canvas for she made the land
under sail steamed into Lele Harbour.
And the next day Hayes fled from the island in an open
boat, and I, with three others of the Leonora’s
company, saw from the decks of the corvette the blue
peaks of Kusaie sink into the sea.