Nine years had come and gone since
I had last seen Nukutavake and its amiable brown^skinned
people, and now as I again stepped on shore and scanned
the faces of those assembled on the beach to meet me,
I missed many that I had loved in the old, bright
days when I was trading in the Paumotus. For
Death, in the hideous shape of small-pox, had been
busy, taking the young and strong and passing by the
old and feeble.
It was a Sunday, and the little isle
was quiet as quiet as the ocean of shining
silver on which our schooner lay becalmed, eight miles
beyond the foaming surf of the barrier reef.
Teveiva, the old native pastor, was
the first one to greet me, and the tears rolled down
his cheeks as he spoke to me in his native Tahitian,
bade me welcome, and asked me had I come to sojourn
with “we of Nukutavake, for a little while”.
“Would that it were so, old
friend. But I have only come on shore for a few
hours, whilst the ship is becalmed to greet
old friends dear to my heart, and never forgotten
since the days I lived among ye, nigh upon a half-score
years ago. But, alas, it grieves me that many
are gone.”
A low sob came from the people, as
they pressed around their friend of bygone years,
some clasping my hands and some pressing their faces
to mine And so, hand in hand, and followed by the
people, the old teacher and I walked slowly along
the shady path of drooping palms, and came to and
entered the quiet mission house, through the open windows
of which came the sigh of the surf, and the faint
call of sea-birds.
Some women, low-voiced and gentle,
brought food, and young drinking nuts upon platters
of leaf, and silently placed them before the White
Man, who touched the food with his hand and drank
a little of a coco-nut, and then turned to Teveiva
and said:
“O friend, I cannot eat because
of the sorrow that hath come upon thee. Tell
me how it befel.”
Speaking slowly, and with many tears,
the old teacher told of how a ship from Tahiti had
brought the dread disease to the island, and how in
a little less than two months one in every three of
the three hundred and ten people had died, and of
the long drought that followed upon the sickness,
when for a whole year the sky was as brass, and the
hot sun beat down upon the land, and withered up the
coco-palms and pandanus trees; and only for the
night dews all that was green would have perished.
And now because of the long drought men were weak,
and sickening, and women and children were feint from
want of food.
“It is as if God hath deserted us,” said
the old man.
“Nay,” I assured him,
“have no fear. Rain is near. It will
come from the westward as it has come to many islands
which for a year have been eaten up with drought and
hunger like this land of Nukutavake. Have no fear,
I say. Wind and much heavy rain will soon come
from the west.”
Then I wrote a few lines to the skipper.
“Send this letter to the ship
by my boat,” I said to Teveiva, “and the
captain will fill the boat with food. It is the
ship’s gift to the people.”
And then for the first time since
the island had been smitten, the poor women and children
laughed joyously, and the men sprang to their feet,
and with loud shouts ran to the boat with the messenger
who carried the letter.
“Come, old friend,” I
said to the teacher, “walk with me round the
island. I would once more look upon the lagoon
and sit with you a little while as we have sat many
times before, under the great toa tree that
grows upon the point on the weather side.”
And so we two passed out of the mission
house, and hand in hand, like children, went into
the quiet village and along the sandy path that wound
through the vista of serried, grey-boled palms, till
we came to the white, inner beach of the calm lagoon,
which shone and glistened like burnished silver.
On the beach were some canoes.
Half a cable length from the shore,
a tiny, palm-clad islet floated on that shining lake,
and the drooping fronds of the palms cast their shadows
upon the crystal water. Between the red-brown
boles of the trees there showed something white.
The old man pointed to it and said:
“Wilt come and look at the white
man’s grave? ’Tis well kept as
we promised his mother should be done.”
Teveiva launched a canoe and we paddled
gently over to the isle, which was barely half an
acre in extent From the beach there ran a narrow path,
neatly gravelled and bordered with many-hued crotons;
it led to a low square enclosure of coral stone cemented
with lime. Within the walls bright crotons grew
thickly, and in the centre stood a plain slab of marble
on which was carved:
Walter Tallis,
boat-steerer of the ship asia.
Died, December 25, 1869,
aged 21.
Erected by his Mother.
I sat on the wall, and looked thoughtfully
at the marble slab.
“’Tis twelve years since, Teveiva.”
“Aye, since last Christmas Day.
And every year his mother sends a letter and asks,
‘Is my boy’s grave well kept?’ and
I write and say, ’It is well tended. One
day in every week the women and girls come and weed
the path, and see that the plants thrive. This
have we always done since thou sent the marble slab.’
She sends her letters to the English missionary at
Papeite, and he sends mine to her in far away Beretania
(Britain).”
“Poor fellow,” I thought;
“it was just such a day as this hot
and calm when we laid him here under the
palms.”
On that day, twelve years before,
the Asia lay becalmed off the island, and the
skipper lowered his boat and came on shore to buy some
fresh provisions He was a cheery old fellow, with snow-white
hair, and was brimming over with good spirits, for
the Asia had had extraordinary good luck.
“Over a thousand barrels of
sparm oil under hatches already, and the Asia
not out nine months,” he said to me, “and
we haven’t lost a boat, nor any whale we fastened
to yet And this boy here,” and he turned and
clapped his hand on the shoulder of a young, handsome
and stalwart youth, who had come with him, “is
my boat-steerer, Walter Tallis, and the dandiest lad
with an iron that ever stood up in a boat’s bow.
Forty-two years have I been fishin’, and until
Walter here shipped on the old Asia, thought
that the Almighty never made a good boat-steerer or
boat-header outer eny one but a Yankee or a Portugee or
maybe a Walker Injun. But Walter, though he is
a Britisher, was born fer whale-killin’ and
thet’s a fact.”
I shook hands with the young man,
who laughed as he said:
“Captain Allen is always buttering
me up. But there are as good, and better men
than me with an iron on board the Asia.
But I certainly have had wonderful luck for
a Britisher,” and he smiled slyly at his captain.
Suddenly, we were chatting and smoking
on the verandah, there came a thrilling cry from the
crew of the whaleboat, lying on the beach fifty yards
away.
“Blo-o-w! bl-o-o-w!”
And from the throats of three hundred
natives came a roar “Te folau! te folau!”
("A whale! a whale!”)
The skipper and his boat-steerer sprang
to their feet and looked seaward, and there, less
than a mile from the shore, was a mighty bull cachalot,
leisurely making his way through the glassy sea, swimming
with head up, and lazily rolling from side to side
as if his one hundred tons of bulk were as light as
the weight of a flying-fish.
“Now, mister, you shall see
what Walter and I can do with that fish,” cried
the skipper to me. “And when we’ve
settled him, and the other boats are towing him off
to the ship, Walter and I will come on shore again
and hev something to eat if you will invite
us.”
The boat flashed out from the beach,
swept out of the passage through the reef, and in
twenty minutes was within striking distance of the
mighty cetacean. And, watching from the verandah,
I saw the young harpooner stand up and bury his first
harpoon to the socket, following it instantly with
a second. Then slowly sank the huge head, and
up came the vast flukes in the air, and Leviathan
sounded into the ocean depths as the line spun through
the stem notch, and the boat sped over the mirror-like
sea. In ten minutes she was hidden from view by
a point of land, and the last that we on the shore
saw was “the dandiest lad that ever stood up
in a boat’s bow” going aft to the steer-oar,
and the old white-headed skipper taking his place
to use the deadly lance. And then at the same
time that the captain’s boat disappeared from
view, I noticed that the Asia had lowered her
four other boats, which were pulling with furious
speed in the direction which the “fast”
boat had taken.
“Something must have gone wrong
with the captain’s boat,” I thought.
Something had gone wrong, for half
an hour later one of the four “loose”
boats pulled into the beach, and the old skipper, with
tears streaming down his rugged cheeks, stepped out,
trembling from head to foot.
“My dandy boy, my poor boatsteerer,”
he said huskily to me “that darned
whale fluked us, and near cut him in half. Poor
lad, he didn’t suffer; for death came sudden.
An’ he is the only son of his mother. Can
I bring him to your house?”
Very tenderly and slowly the whaleboat’s
crew carried the crushed and mutilated form of the
“dandiest boy” to the house, and whilst
I helped the Asia’s cooper make a coffin,
Teveiva sat outside with the heartbroken old skipper,
and spoke to him in his broken English of the Life
Beyond. And so Walter Tallis, the last of an old
Dorset family, was laid to rest in the little isle
in the quiet lagoon.
For two days our schooner lay in sight
of the island; and then, as midnight came, the blue
sky became black, and the ship was snugged down for
the coming storm. The skipper sent up a rocket
so that it might be seen by the people on shore to
verify my prophecy about a change in the weather.
Came then the wind and the sweet,
blessed rain, and as the schooner, under reefed canvas,
plunged to the rising sea, the folk of Nukutavake,
I felt certain, stood outside their houses, and let
the cooling Heaven-sent streams drench their smooth,
copper-coloured skins, whilst good old Teveiva gave
thanks to God.