On the afternoon of the 4th of June,
1885, the Hawaiian labour schooner Mana, of
which I was “recruiter” was beating through
Apolima Straits, which divide the islands of Upolu
and Savai’i. The south-east trade was blowing
very strongly and a three-knot current setting against
the wind had raised a short, confused sea, and our
decks were continually flooded. But we had to
thrash through it with all the sail we could possibly
carry, for among the sixty-two Gilbert Islands “recruits”
I had on board three had developed symptoms of what
we feared was small-pox, and we were anxious to reach
the anchorage off the town of Mulifanua at the west
end of Upolu before dark. At Mulifanua there was
a large German cotton plantation, employing four hundred
“recruited” labourers, and on the staff
of European employes was a resident doctor. In
the ordinary course of things we should have gone
on to Apia, which was twenty miles farther on, and
our port of destination, and handed over my cargo of
“recruits” to the manager of the German
firm there; but as Mulifanua Plantation was also owned
by them, and my “recruits” would probably
be sent there eventually, the captain and I decided
to land the entire lot at that place, instead of taking
them to Apia, where the European community would be
very rough upon us if the disease on board did turn
out to be small-pox.
As the skipper and I were standing
aft, watching the showers of spray that flew over
the schooner every time a head sea smacked her in the
face, one of the hands shouted out that there was a
man in the water, close to on the weather bow.
Hauling our head sheets to windward we head-reached
towards him, and in a few minutes the man, who was
swimming in the most gallant fashion, was alongside,
and clambered on board. He was a rather dark-skinned
Polynesian, young, and of extremely powerful physique.
“Thanks, good friends,”
he said, speaking in halting Samoan. “’Tis
a high sea in which to swim. Yet,” and
here he glanced around him at the land on both sides,
“I was half-way across.”
“Come below,” I said,
“and take food and drink, and I will give you
a lava-lava (waistcloth).” (He was nude.)
He thanked me, and then again his
keen dark eyes were fixed upon Savai’i three
miles distant.
“Art bound to Savai’i?” he asked
quickly.
“Nay. We beat against the wind. To-night
we anchor at Mulifanua.”
“Ah!” and his face changed,
“then I must leave, for it is to Savai’i
I go,” and he was about to go over the rail
when we held him back.
“Wait, friend. In a little
time the ship will be close in to the passage through
the reef at Saleleloga” (a town of Savai’i),
“and then as we put the ship about, thou canst
go on thy way. Why swim two leagues and tempt
the sharks when there is no need. Come below and
eat and drink, and have no fear. We shall take
thee as near to the passage as we can.”
The skipper came below with us, and
after providing our visitor with a navy blue waistcloth,
we gave him a stiff tumbler of rum, and some bread
and meat. He ate quickly and then asked for a
smoke, and in a few minutes more we asked him who
he was, and why he was swimming across the straits.
We spoke in Samoan. “Friends,” he
said, “I will tell the truth. I am one
of the kau galuega (labourers) on Mulifanua
Plantation. Yesterday being the Sabbath, and
there being no work, I went into the lands of the
Samoan village to steal young nuts and taro.
I had thrown down and husked a score, and was creeping
back to my quarters by a side path through the grove,
when I was set upon by three young Samoan manaia
(bloods) who began beating me with clubs seeking
to murder me. We fought, and I, knowing that
death was upon me, killed one man with a blow of my
tori nui{} (husking stick) of iron-wood, and
then drove it deep into the chest of another.
Then I fled, and gaining the beach, ran into the sea
so that I might swim to Savai’i, for there will
I be safe from pursuit” “’Tis a
long swim, man ’tis five leagues.”
He laughed and expanded his brawny chest “What
is that to me? I have swam ten leagues many times.”
A heavy, pointed stick
of hardwood, used for husking coco-
nuts.
“Where do you belong?” asked the skipper
in English.
He answered partly in the same language
and partly in his curious Samoan.
“I am of Anuda.{} My name is
Vanaki. Two years ago I came to Samoa in a German
labour ship to work on the plantations, for I wanted
to see other places and earn money, and then return
to Anuda and speak of the things I had seen.
It was a foolish thing of me. The German suis
(overseers) are harsh men. I worked very hard
on little food. It was for that I had to steal.
And I am but one man from Anuda, and there are four
hundred others from many islands black-skinned,
man-eating, woolly-haired pigs from the Solomon and
New Hebrides, and fierce fellows like these Tafito{}
men from the Gilbert Islands such as I now see here
on this ship. No one of them can speak my tongue
of Anuda. And now I am a free man.”
Anuda or Cherry Island is an outlier
of the Santa Cruz Group, in the South Pacific.
The natives are more of the Polynesian than the
Melanesian type, and are a fine, stalwart race.
Tafitos natives
of the Pacific Equatorial Islands such
as the Gilbert Group.
“You are a plucky fellow,”
said the captain, “and deserve good luck.
Here, take this dollar, and tie it up in the corner
of your waistcloth. You can buy yourself some
tobacco from the white trader at Salelelogo.”
“Ah, yes, indeed. But”
(and here he dropped into Samoan again, and turned
to me) “I would that the good captain would take
me as a sailor for his next voyage. I was for
five years with Captain Macleod of Nouméa. And
I am a good man honest, and no boaster.”
I shook my head. “It cannot
be. From Mulifanua we go to Apia And there will
be news there of what thou hast done yesterday, and
we cannot hide a man on this small ship.”
And then I asked the captain what he thought of the
request.
“We ought to try and work it,”
said the skipper. “If he was five years
with Jock Macleod he’s all right.”
We questioned him further, and he
satisfied us as to his bona-fides, giving us
the names of many men captains and traders known
to us intimately.
“Vanaki,” I said, “this
is what may be done, but you must be quick, for presently
we shall be close to the passage off Saleleloga, and
must go about When you land, go to Miti-loa the
chief, and talk to him privately. There is bad
blood between his people and those of Mulifanua ”
“I know it It has been so for two years past.”
“Now, listen. Miti-loa
and the captain here and I are good friends. Tell
him that you have seen us. Hide nothing from him
of yesterday. He is a strong man.”
“I know it Who does not, in
this part of Samoa know of Miti-loa?” {}
“That is true. And Miti
knows us two papalagi{} well. Stay with
him, work for him, and do all that he may ask.
He will ask but little perhaps nothing.
In twenty days from now, this ship will be at Apia
ready for sea again. We go to the Tokelaus”
(Gilbert Islands) “or else to the Solomons,
and if thou comest on board in the night who is to
know of it but Miti-loa and thyself?”
Miti-loa “Long
Dream “.
White men foreigners.
The mate put his head under the flap
of the skylight “Close on to the reef, sir.
Time to go about.”
“All right, Carey. Put
her round Now Vanaki, up on deck, and over you go.”
Vanaki nodded and smiled, and followed
us. Then quickly he took off his lava-lava,
deftly wrapped it about his head like an Indian turban,
and held out his hand in farewell, and every one on
board cheered as he I leapt over the side, and began
his swim to the land.
From the cross-trees I watched him
through my glasses, saw him enter the passage into
smooth water, and disdaining to rest on any of the
exposed and isolated projections of reef which lined
the passage, continue his course towards the village.
Then a rain squall hid him from view, but we knew
that he was safe.
That evening we landed our “recruits”
at Mulifanua, and after thoroughly disinfecting the
ship, we sailed a few days later for Apia. Here
we were again chartered to proceed to the New Hebrides
and Solomon Islands for another cruise.
As we were refitting, I received a
letter from Miti-loa, telling me that Vanaki
was safe, and would be with us in a few days.
When he did arrive, he came with Miti-loa himself
in his taumalua (native boat) and a score of
his people. Vanaki was so well made-up as a Samoan
that when he stepped on deck the skipper and I did
not recognise him. We sent him below, and told
him to keep quiet until we were well under way.
“Ah,” said Miti-loa
to us, “what a man is he! Such a swimmer
was never before seen. My young men have made
much of him, and I would he would stay with me.”
Vanaki turned out an acquisition to
our ship’s company, and soon became a favourite
with every one. He was highly delighted when he
was placed on the articles at the usual rate of wages
paid to native seamen L3 per month.
Our crew were natives from all parts of Polynesia,
but English was the language used by them generally
to each other. Like all vessels in the labour
trade we carried a double crew one to man
the boats when recruiting, and one to work the ship
when lying “off and on” at any island
where we could not anchor, and Vanaki was greatly pleased
when I told him that he should have a place in my
boat, instead of being put in the “covering"{}
boat.
The “covering”
boat is that which stands by to open fire
if the “landing”
boat is attacked.
We made a splendid run down to the
Solomons from Samoa, and when in sight of San Cristoval,
spoke a French labour vessel from Nouméa, recruiting
for the French New Hebrides Company. Her captain
and his “recruiter” (both Englishmen)
paid us a visit. They were old acquaintances
of our captain and myself, and as they came alongside
in their smart whaleboat and Vanaki saw their faces,
he gave a weird yell of delight, and rubbed noses
with them the moment they stepped on deck.
“Hallo, Vanaki, my lad,”
said the skipper of La Metise, shaking his
hand, “how are you?” Then turning to us
he said: “Vanaki was with me when I was
mate with Captain Macleod, in the old Aurore
of Nouméa. He’s a rattling good fellow
for a native, and I wish I had him with me now.
Wherever did you pick him up?”
We told him, and Houston laughed when
I narrated the story of Vanaki’s swim.
“Oh, that’s nothing for
him to do. Why, the beggar once swam from the
Banks Group across to the Torres Islands. Has
he never told you about it?”
“No. And I would hardly
believe him if he did. Why, the two groups are
fifty miles apart.”
“No, from Tog in the Torres
Islands to Ureparapara in the Banks Group is a little
over forty miles. But you must wheedle the yarn
out of him. He’s a bit sensitive of talking
about it, on account of his at first being told he
was a liar by several people. But Macleod, two
traders who were passengers with us, and all the crew
of the Aurore know the story to be true.
We sent an account of it to the Sydney papers.”
“I’ll get him to tell
me some day,” I said “I once heard of a
native woman swimming from Nanomaga in the Ellice
Group to Nanomea thirty-five miles but
never believed it for a long time.”
After spending half an hour with us,
our friends went back to their ship, each having shaken
hands warmly with Vanaki, and wished him good luck.
It was some days before the captain
and I had time to hear Vanaki’s story, which
I relate as nearly as possible in his own words.
First of all, however, I must mention
that Ureparapara or Bligh Island is a well-wooded,
fertile spot, about sixteen miles in circumference,
and is an extinct crater. It is now the seat of
a successful mission. Tog is much smaller, well-wooded,
and inhabited, and about nine hundred feet high.
At certain times of the year a strong current sets
in a northerly and westerly direction, and it is due
to this fact that Vanaki accomplished his swim.
Now for his story.
“I was in the port watch of
the Aurore. We came to Ureparapara in
the month of June to ‘recruit’ and got
four men. Whilst we were there, Captain Houston
(who was then mate of the Aurore) asked me if
I would dive under the ship and look at her copper;
for a week before we had touched a reef. So I
dived, and found that five sheets of copper were gone
from the port side about half a fathom from the keel.
So the captain took five new sheets of copper, and
punched the nail holes, and gave me one sheet at a
time, and I nailed them on securely. In three
hours it was done, for the ship was in quiet, clear
water, and I knew what to do. The captain then
said to me laughingly that he feared I had but tacked
on the sheets loosely, and that they would come off.
My heart was sore at this, and so I asked Mr. Houston,
who is a good diver, to go and look. And he dived
and looked, and then five other of the crew natives dived
and looked, and they all said that the work was well
and truly done all the nails driven home,
and the sheets smooth, and without a crinkle.
This pleased the captain greatly, and he gave me a
small gold piece, and told me that I could go on shore,
and spend it at the white trader’s store.
“Now I did a foolish thing.
I bought from the trader two bottles of strange grog
called arrak. It was very strong stronger
than rum and soon I and two others who
drank it became very drunk, and lay on the ground
like pigs. Mr. Houston came and found me, and
brought me on board, and I was laid on the after-deck
under the awning.
“At sunset the ship sailed.
I was still asleep, and heard nothing, though in a
little while it began to blow, and much rain fell The
captain let me lie on the lee side, so that the rain
might beat upon me, and bring me to life again.
“When four bells struck I awoke.
I was ashamed. Waiting until the wheel was relieved,
I crept along the deck unseen, for it was very dark,
and goy up on the top of the top-gallant fo’c’stle,
and again lay down. The ship was running before
the wind under close-reefed sails, and the sea was
so great that she pitched heavily every now and then,
and much water came over the bows. This did me
good, and I soon began to feel able to go below and
turn in in my bunk. Then presently, as I was about
to rise, the ship made a great plunge, and a mighty
sea fell upon her, and I was swept away. No one
saw me go, for no one knew that I was there, and the
night was very, very dark.
“When I came to the surface,
I could see the ship’s lights, and cried out,
but no one heard me, for the wind and sea made a great
noise; and then, too, there was sweeping rain In a
little while the lights were gone, and I was alone.
“‘Now,’ I said to
myself, ’Vanaki, thou art a fool, and will go
into the belly of a shark because of becoming drunk.’
And then my heart came back to me, and I swam on easily
over the sea, hoping that I would be missed, and the
ship heave-to, and send a boat. But I looked in
vain.
“By-and-by the sky cleared,
and the stars came out, but the wind still blew fiercely,
and the seas swept me along so quickly that I knew
it would be folly for me to try and face them, and
try to swim back to Ureparapara.
“‘I will swim to Tog,’
I said; ‘if the sharks spare me I can do it.’
For now that the sky was clear, and I could see the
stars my fear died away; and so I turned a little,
and swam to the west a little by the north.
“There was a strong current
with me, and hour by hour as I swam the wind became
less, and the sea died away.
“When daylight came I was not
tired, and rested on my back. And as I rested,
two green turtle rose near me. They looked at
me, and I was glad, for I knew that where turtle were
there would be no sharks. I am not afraid of
sharks, but what is a man to do with a shark in the
open sea without a knife?
“Towards noon there came rain
I lay on my back and put my hollowed hands together,
and caught enough to satisfy my great thirst.
The rain did not last long.
“A little after noon I saw the
land the island of Tog. It was but
three leagues away.
“Then I swam into a great and
swift tide-rip, which carried me to the eastward.
It was so strong that I feared it would take me away
from the island, but soon it turned and swept me to
the westward. And then I saw the land becoming
nearer and nearer.
“When the sun was nearly touching
the sea-rim, I was so close to the south-end of Tog,
that I could see the spars of a ship lying at anchor
in the bay called Pio. And then when the sun had
set I could see the lights of many canoes catching
flying-fish by torchlight.
“I swam on and came to the ship. It was
the Aurore.
“I clambered up the side-ladder,
and stood on deck, and the man who was on anchor watch an
ignorant Tokelau shouted out in fear, and
ran to tell the captain, and Mr. Houston.
“They brought me below and made
much of me, and gave me something to drink which made
me sleep for many hours.
“When I awakened I was strong
and well, but my eyes were malai (bloodshot).
That is all.”