A very brief trial of the lagoon,
at various depths, soon convinced us that it contained
no pearl-shell, both George and the Rotumah man coming
up empty-handed after each dive, and pronouncing the
bottom to be oge, i.e., poverty-stricken
as regarded shell. But we made one rather pleasing
discovery, which was that the lagoon contained a vast
number of green turtle. We could see the creatures,
some of them being of great size, swimming about beneath
the boat in all directions. It at once occurred
to me that I should let Guest know, for we were getting
short of provisions on board the Fray Bentos,
and had been using native food pork, yams,
and taro, to eke out our scanty store. Here, now,
was an opportunity of getting a supply of fresh meat
which would last us for a couple of months or more;
as we could easily stow eighty or a hundred turtle
on board, and kill one or two every day as required.
We always carried with us a heavy turtle-net, made
of coir fibre, which I had bought two years before
in the Tokelau Group. But, first of all, I consulted
with our native crew as to whether we could dispense
with the net by remaining on the island all night
and watching for the turtle to come ashore.
They all assured me that we should
get none, or at best but few, as it was not the laying
season.
“Very well,” I said, “go
off to the ship, and tell the captain that there is
no pearl-shell here, but plenty of turtle. Ask
him if he will let you have the turtle-net, so that
we can set it across the mouth of the passage as soon
as it becomes dark; and tell him we shall come off
again by midnight if he does not care about our staying
till the morning; but that as we are pretty sure to
get a lot of turtle, he had better send the longboat
as well.”
Yorke, at first, intended to go off
again to the Francesca, but I told him I was
so sure that Guest would come to an anchor when he
heard about the turtle, that he (Guest) would be sure
to tell Napoleon and the other men on board the cutter
to do the same. “In fact,” I added,
“a supply of turtle will be a God-send to us,
and the skipper will not mind, I am sure, if we stay
here for a couple of days, under the circumstances.”
We pulled ashore to a little sandy
beach, and Yorke and myself, taking our rifles, ammunition,
and a few biscuits each, got out, the native crew
at once starting off again for the ship, pulling as
hard as they could, for they were eager to return
with the turtle-net and enjoy themselves as only South
Sea Islanders and other of Nature’s children
do when fishing.
About an hour after the boat had gone,
we set to work to get some coconuts to drink, both
for ourselves and the boat’s crew when they
returned. Yorke ascended a very tall palm about
sixty feet in height like a native, and
began throwing down the young nuts. I took a
shorter tree near by, and was leisurely twisting off
the heavy nuts, when he, who had a good view of the
sea, called out to me that it had fallen calm.
“And what I don’t like,
Drake, is this,” he added “there’s
a dull, greasy look on the water over to the eastward
there, and I’d like to be on board the Francesca
instead of being here. I don’t like it,
I can tell you, and I’m sorry we did not go
off in the boat.”
I, in my fatuous, youthful conceit,
laughed at his forebodings.
“It’s only a New Britain
squall a lot of wind for ten minutes, then
a power of rain for another twenty, and then it’ll
be over.”
Yorke, however, was too old and experienced
a seaman to disregard the signs of coming danger.
He quickly descended from his tree, and I followed
suit.
“There’s something more
than a squall coming, my lad. Let us cut through
the bush across to the weather side of the island,
and try and stop the boat. We can do it if we
are quick.”
The island was less than a mile in
width, even at its broadest portion, which was where
we had landed; so, after a hurried drink, we picked
up our rifles and started off to try to intercept the
boat as she was pulling down the outer and eastern
shore. But before we had made two hundred yards,
we came to a dead stop, our progress being barred by
a dense thicket of thorny and stunted undergrowth.
We turned aside and skirted the thicket for a quarter
of a mile, then tried again, with the same result it
was absolutely impossible to force our way through
the obstacle.
By this time the air had become stiflingly
hot and oppressive, and the rapidly darkening sky
presaged the coming storm. From every pore in
our bodies the perspiration was streaming profusely,
and our hands and faces were scratched and bleeding.
“We must go back,” said
Yorke, “we cannot possibly get to the other side
of the island through this damnable scrub. The
only thing we can do is to run along the inner beach
of the island till we come to its end, wade across
the reef, and try to stop the boat before she has gone
too far. This is no common squall, I’m
afraid it’s going to be a hurricane.
Come on.”
We started off at a run, along the
hard sand, but before we had done the first quarter
of a mile, I felt that I could go no further, for I
was pumped out, could scarcely breathe, and felt a
strange, unnatural faintness overcoming me a
not uncommon sensation experienced by many people
just before a hurricane or an earthquake.
“You must go on alone,”
I said, pantingly, to Yorke; “leave me here.
I’ll be all right, even if I have to stop here
a month of Sundays. I can’t starve in such
a place as this.”
Pitching his own and my rifle up on
the bank above high water mark, he seized me and lifted
me up on his back, telling me to hold on, as he meant
to make a big try for the boat. It was no use
my protesting he set off again at a steady
run, my weight apparently impeding his progress no
more than if he had been carrying a doll instead of
ten stone.
At last we gained the end of the island,
where there was a break in the verdure, and from which
we had a brief view of the sea before it was blotted
out by the black wall of the coming hurricane.
“We’re done as far as
getting on board is concerned,” he said, as I
slid down his back on to the sand; “but, thank
God, the boat is safe. In another ten minutes
she would have been too late to have reached either
the cutter or brigantine, and have been smothered.
Look, Captain Guest is all ready, and so is the cutter!”
I got up on my feet, just in time
to see the boat go alongside the brigantine, which
was under a close reefed lower topsail and a bit of
her mainsail only for Guest knew what was
coming, and had prepared to meet it; the cutter, too,
was reefed down, and had taken her dingy on deck.
At that moment, however, both vessels were becalmed;
but scarcely had the whale boat been hoisted up to
the starboard davits of the Fray Bentos and
secured, when the hurricane struck both vessels.
I thought at first that our poor old brigantine was
going to turn turtle, for she was all but thrown on
her beam ends; but righting herself gallantly, she
plunged away into the growing darkness, followed by
the cutter, and in five minutes both were hidden from
view, and Yorke and myself had to throw ourselves
flat on our faces to avoid being blown down the beach
into the lagoon.
I had once, years before when a boy
in Fiji, seen a bad hurricane, and was rather proud
of my experience, but I never saw, and never wish to
see again, such a truly terrifying and appalling sight
as my companion and I now witnessed for
within an hour all Nature seemed to have gone stark,
raving mad, and I never expected to see the next morning’s
sun. I do not think it was the fearful force
of the wind which so terrified me into a state of
helplessness as the diabolical clamour the
clashing and tearing and rending asunder of the trees,
accompanied by a prolonged howling mingled with a
deep droning hum like one sometimes hears when a volcano
is in eruption and, in a minor key, the
dulled roaring of the surf as the mighty seas swept
over the outer reef, and broke over the weather shore
with such tremendous force that the island seemed to
tremble to its very foundations.
Unable to make himself heard in the
pandemonium roaring around us, Yorke turned to me,
and gripping me by one hand, and shielding his eyes
with the other from the hurtling showers of sand and
pebbles which threatened to cut our faces to pieces,
he managed to drag me along the beach to a low ledge
of coral rocks, under the shelter of which we were
protected from the fury of the wind, and, in a measure,
safe from flying branches, though all along the beach
coco-palms were being torn up by the roots, or their
lofty crowns cut off as if they were no stronger than
a dahlia or some such weakly plant.
As we crouched on the sand under the
ledge of rock, a terrific but welcome downpour of
rain fell, and we were able to satisfy our thirst
by pressing our mouths to crevices in the rock overhead.
But we were not long allowed to remain undisturbed
in our shelter, for, although the tide was on the
ebb, the enormous influx of water, driven over the
reef by the violence of the wind, so swelled the lagoon
that we had to abandon our refuge and crawl on our
hands and knees up over the bank, and thence into
the thorny scrub, where we were at least safe from
falling trees, there being none near us.
“I must try and get our rifles
before it is too late,” shouted Yorke in my
ear. “I know the place, but if I don’t
get there pretty quick, I shall never be able to recognise
it. Stay where you are until I get back, then
we’ll try and find a better camping place before
night comes on if this little tin-pot island
isn’t blown out of the water over on to New
Guinea in the meantime.”
By this time I was beginning to get
some courage, and to feel ashamed of myself; so, as
soon as Yorke had crept out of the scrub, I braced
myself up, and taking out my sheath knife, began to
cut away the thorny branches, and pull up by the roots
some of the scrub around me, so as to make more room.
The soil consisted of decomposed shell and vegetable
matter, very soft and porous, underneath which were
loose coral slabs, and I soon had a space cleared
large enough for us both to lie down upon. Then
I started to enclose it on three sides by a low wall
of the flat coral stones, across which I laid a thick
and nearly rain-proof covering of branches and leaves,
and when Yorke returned an hour later, I was almost
finished, and had begun to make a fire of dead roots
and branches.
“That’s grand,”
he said, as he laid down the rifles. “I
was wondering if your matches were dry. Mine
are spoilt, as I had them loose in my pocket.
How is your tobacco?”
“Quite dry, too. Here you are, fill your
pipe.”
The man’s thoughtfulness showed
at once. “No, thank you not just
yet. I’ll improve this newly-erected mansion
of ours by getting coconut branches up from the beach.
We might as well make our roof as watertight as we
can before dark. Then I want something to eat,
and there are plenty of coconuts lying about everywhere.”
“We won’t starve,”
I said; “there are any amount of robber crabs
in this scrub, and to-night we can get as many as
we want, if we can make a bright fire.”
By dark we had succeeded in carrying
up thirty or forty coconut branches, and covering
our sleeping place over in a more satisfactory manner,
though we were every now and then chilled to the bone
by the stinging rain. Our rifles, matches, tobacco,
and a few biscuits, we placed in a dry spot, and then
built up a small but hot fire of roots under the shelter,
and, after eating a meal of coconut and biscuit, we
filled our pipes, piled on more roots, and sat by the
fire drying our clothes, and listening to the wild
uproar of wind and sea, congratulating ourselves upon
being in a spot where we were at least safe from the
wind, for our camp was at least eight or ten feet below
the general level of the island, both on its windward
and leeward sides.
All that night the wind blew with
terrific violence, and the noise of the surf thrashing
upon the coral barriers of the island was something
indescribable. At about midnight, just after a
lull succeeded by a heavy fall of rain, the wind hauled
round two or three points to the southward, and, if
possible, blew with still greater violence. The
crashing of trees mingling with the demoniacal shriek
of the hurricane, was enough to disturb the mind of
the bravest; but my companion lay quietly beside the
fire, smoking his pipe and talking to me as he would
had we been seated at the supper table on board the
Fray Bentos. Yet that he was deeply anxious
about our ship-mates I well knew, when, bidding me
good-night, he laid his great frame upon the sand and
went to sleep.