It was at the end of September, 1844,
when we completed the necessary preparations for our
journey, and left the station of Messrs. Campbell
and Stephens, moving slowly towards the farthest point
on which the white man has established himself.
We passed the stations of Messrs. Hughs and Isaacs
and of Mr. Coxen, and arrived on the 30th September,
at Jimba, [It is almost always written Fimba, in the
Journal; but I have corrected it to Jimba. (Ed.)]
where we were to bid farewell to civilization.
These stations are established on
creeks which come down from the western slopes of
the Coast Range here extending in a north
and south direction and meander through
plains of more or less extent to join the Condamine
River; which also rising in the Coast Range,
where the latter expands into the table-land of New
England sweeps round to the northward,
and, flowing parallel to the Coast Range, receives
the whole drainage from the country to the westward
of the range. The Condamine forms, for a great
distance, the separation of the sandstone country to
the westward, from the rich basaltic plains to the
eastward. These plains, so famous for the richness
of their pasture, and for the excellency of the sheep
and cattle depastured upon them, have become equally
remarkable as the depositaries of the remains of extinct
species of animals, several of which must have been
of a gigantic size, being the Marsupial representatives
of the Pachydermal order of other continents.
Mr. Isaacs’ station is particularly
rich in these fossil remains; and they have been likewise
found in the beds and banks of Mr. Hodgson’s
and of Mr. Campbell’s Creeks, and also of Oaky
Creek. At Isaacs’ Creek, they occur together
with recent freshwater shells of species still living
in the neighbouring ponds, and with marly and calcareous
concrétions; which induces me to suppose that
these plains were covered with large sheets of water,
fed probably by calcareous springs connected with the
basaltic range, and that huge animals, fond of water,
were living, either on the rich herbage surrounding
these ponds or lakes, or browsing upon the leaves
and branches of trees forming thick brushes on the
slopes of the neighbouring hills. The rise of
the country, which is very generally supposed to have
taken place, was probably the cause of the disappearance
of the water, and of the animals becoming extinct,
when its necessary supply ceased to exist. Similar
remains have been found in Wellington Valley, and
in the Port Phillip District, where, probably, similar
changes have taken place.
The elevation of Darling Downs about
1800 to 2000 feet, according to the barometrical observations
of Mr. Cunningham renders the climate much
cooler than its latitude would lead one to suppose;
indeed, ice has frequently been found, during the
calm clear nights of winter. During September
and October, we observed at sunrise an almost perfect
calm. About nine o’clock, light westerly
winds set in, which increased towards noon, died away
towards evening, and after sunset, were succeeded by
light easterly breezes; thunder-storms rose from south
and south-west, and passed over with a violent gust
of wind and heavy showers of rain; frequently, in
half an hour’s time, the sky was entirely clear
again; sometimes, however, the night and following
day were cloudy.
The plains, as we passed, were covered
with the most luxuriant grass and herbage. Plants
of the leguminosae and compositae, were by far the
most prevalent; the colour of the former, generally
a showy red, that of the latter, a bright yellow.
Belts of open forest land, principally composed of
the Box-tree of the Colonists (a species of Eucalyptus),
separate the different plains; and patches of scrub,
consisting of several species of Acacias, and
of a variety of small trees, appear to be the outposts
of the extensive scrubs of the interior. There
are particularly three species of Acacias, which
bestow a peculiar character on these scrubs:
the one is the Myal (A. pendula) first
seen by Oxley on Liverpool Plains, and afterwards
at the Barwan, and which exists in all the western
plains between the Barwan and Darling Downs whose
drooping foliage and rich yellow blossoms render it
extremely elegant and ornamental. The second,
the Acacia of Coxen, resembles the Myal (without its
drooping character), its narrow lanceolate phyllodia
rather stiff, its yellowish branches erect. The
third, is the Bricklow Acacia, which seems to be identical
with the Rose-wood Acacia of Moreton Bay; the latter,
however, is a fine tree, 50 to 60 feet high, whereas
the former is either a small tree or a shrub.
I could not satisfactorily ascertain the origin of
the word Bricklow [Brigaloe, Gould.], but, as
it is well understood and generally adopted by all
the squatters between the Severn River and the Boyne,
I shall make use of the name. Its long, slightly
falcate leaves, being of a silvery green colour, give
a peculiar character to the forest, where the tree
abounds.
Oc. After having repaired
some harness, which had been broken by our refractory
bullocks upsetting their loads, and after my companions
had completed their arrangements, in which Mr. Bell
kindly assisted, we left Jimba, and launched, buoyant
with hope, into the wilderness of Australia.
Many a man’s heart would have
thrilled like our own, had he seen us winding our
way round the first rise beyond the station, with a
full chorus of “God Save the Queen,” which
has inspired many a British soldier, aye,
and many a Prussian too with courage in
the time of danger. Scarcely a mile from Jimba
we crossed Jimba Creek, and travelled over Waterloo
Plains, in a N. W. direction, about eight miles, where
we made our first camp at a chain of ponds. Isolated
cones and ridges were seen to the N. E., and Craig
Range to the eastward: the plains were without
trees, richly grassed, of a black soil with frequent
concrétions of a marly and calcareous nature.
Charley gave a proof of his wonderful power of sight,
by finding every strap of a pack-saddle, that had been
broken, in the high grass of Waterloo Plains.
Oc. Bullocks astray,
but found at last by Charley; and a start attempted
at 1 o’clock; the greater part of the bullocks
with sore backs: the native tobacco in blossom.
One of the bullocks broke his pack-saddle, and compelled
us to halt.
Oc. Rise at five o’clock,
and start at half-past nine; small plains alternate
with a flat forest country, slightly timbered; melon-holes;
marly concrétions, a stiff clayey soil, beautifully
grassed: the prevailing timber trees are Bastard
box, the Moreton Bay ash, and the Flooded Gum.
After travelling seven miles, in a north-west direction,
we came on a dense Myal scrub, skirted by a chain
of shallow water-holes. The scrub trending towards,
and disappearing in, the S. W.: the Loranthus
and the Myal in immense bushes; Casuarina frequent.
In the forest, Ranunculus inundatus; Eryngium
with terete simple leaves, of which the horses are
fond; Prasophyllum elatum, sweetly scented. A
new composite with white blossoms, the rays narrow
and numerous. Sky clear; cumuli to the S.
W.; wind from the westward. Ridges visible to
the N.N.E. and N.E. At the outskirts of the scrub,
the short-tailed sleeping lizard with knobby scales
was frequent: one of them contained six eggs.
We camped outside of the scrub, surrounded by small
tufts of the Bricklow Acacia. Droves of kangaroos
entered the scrub; their foot-paths crossed the forest
in every direction.
The thermometer, before and at sunrise,
32 degrees; so cold that I could not work with my
knife, away from the fire. At sunset, a thick
gathering of clouds to the westward.
Oc. Cloudy sky; thermometer
50 degrees at sunrise; little dew; 64 degrees at eight
o’clock.
We travelled about eleven miles in
a S. W. and S. S. W. direction, skirting the scrub.
During the journey, two thunder-storms passed over;
one to the southward beyond the Condamine, the other
to the north and north-east over the mountains.
The scrub is a dense mass of vegetation, with a well
defined outline a dark body of foliage,
without grass, with many broken branches and trees;
no traces of water, or of a rush of waters. More
to the southward, the outline of the scrub becomes
less defined, and small patches are seen here and
there in the forest. The forest is open and well
timbered; but the trees are rather small. A chain
of lagoons from E. by N. W. by S.; large
flooded gum-trees (but no casuarinas) at the low banks
of the lagoons. The presence of many fresh-water
muscles (Unio) shows that the water is constant,
at least in ordinary seasons.
The scrub opens more and more; a beautiful
country with Bricklow groves, and a white Vitex in
full blossom. The flats most richly adorned by
flowers of a great variety of colours: the yellow
Senecios, scarlet Vetches, the large Xeranthemums,
several species of Gnaphalium, white Anthémis-like
compositae: the soil is a stiff clay with concrétions:
melon-holes with rushes; the lagoons with reeds.
At night, a thunder-storm from south-west.
Our dogs caught a female kangaroo with a young one
in its pouch, and a kangaroo rat.
Oc. We followed the
chain of lagoons for about seven miles, in a west
by south direction; the country to our right was most
beautiful, presenting detached Bricklow groves, with
the Myal, and with the Vitex in full bloom, surrounded
by lawns of the richest grass and herbage; the partridge
pigeon (Geophaps scripta) abounded in the Acacia groves;
the note of the Wonga Wonga (Leucosarcia picata, Gould.)
was heard; and ducks and two pelicans were seen on
the lagoons. Blackfellows had been here a short
time ago: large unio shells were abundant;
the bones of the codfish, and the shield of the fresh-water
turtle, showed that they did not want food. A
small orange tree, about 5-8 minutes high, grows either
socially or scattered in the open scrub, and a leafless
shrub, belonging to the Santalaceae, grows in oblong
detached low thickets. Chenopodiaceous plants
are always frequent where the Myal grows. The
latitude of our camp was 26 degrees 56 minutes 11 seconds.
Oc. Was fully occupied
with mending our packsaddles and straps, broken by
the bullocks in throwing off their loads.
Oc. In following the
chain of lagoons to the westward, we came, after a
few miles travelling, to the Condamine, which flows
to the north-west: it has a broad, very irregular
bed, and was, at the time, well provided with water a
sluggish stream, of a yellowish muddy colour, occasionally
accompanied by reeds. We passed several gullies
and a creek from the northward, slightly running.
The forest on the right side of the
river was tolerably open, though patches of Myal scrub
several times exposed us to great inconvenience; the
left bank of the Condamine, as much as we could see
of it, was a fine well grassed open forest. Conglomerate
and sandstone cropped out in several sections.
Mosquitoes and sandflies were very trouble-some.
I found a species of snail nearly resembling Succinea,
in the fissures of the bark of the Myal, on the Box,
and in the moist grass. The muscle-shells are
of immense size. The well-known tracks of Blackfellows
are everywhere visible; such as trees recently stripped
of their bark, the swellings of the apple-tree cut
off to make vessels for carrying water, honey cut
out, and fresh steps cut in the trees to climb for
opossums. Our latitude was 26 degrees 49
minutes. The thermometer was 41 1/2 at sunrise;
but in the shade, between 12 and 2 o’clock, it
stood at 80 degrees, and the heat was very great,
though a gentle breeze and passing clouds mitigated
the power of the scorching sun.
Oc. During the night,
we had a tremendous thunder-storm, with much thunder
and lightning from the west. The river was very
winding, so that we did not advance more than 7 or
8 miles W.N.W.; the Bricklow scrub compelled us frequently
to travel upon the flood-bed of the river. Fine
grassy forest-land intervened between the Bricklow
and Myal scrubs; the latter is always more open than
the former, and the soil is of a rich black concretionary
character. The soil of the Bricklow scrub is a
stiff clay, washed out by the rains into shallow holes,
well known by the squatters under the name of melon-holes;
the composing rock of the low ridges was a clayey
sandstone (Psammite). Sky cloudy; wind north-east;
thermometer 80 degrees at 2 o’clock; the sunshine
plant (Mimosa terminalis) was frequent on the
black soil; a Swainsonia; an Anthericum, with allium
leaf and fine large yellow blossoms; and another species
with small blossoms, (Stypandra).
Oc. Commenced with
cloudy weather, threatening rain. It cleared up,
however, about 10 o’clock, and we had a very
warm day. We followed the course of the river
for some time, which is fringed with Myal scrubs,
separated by hills with fine open forest. Finding
that the river trended so considerably to the northward
[It seems that northward here is merely miswritten
for westward. (Ed.)], we left
it at a westerly bend, hoping to make it again in
a north-west direction. Thus, we continued travelling
through a beautiful undulating country, until arrested
by a Bricklow scrub, which turned us to the south-west;
after having skirted it, we were enabled to resume
our course to W.N.W., until the decline of day made
me look for water to the south-west. The scrubs
were awful, and threatened to surround us; but we
succeeded in finding a fine large lagoon, probably
filled by the drainage of the almost level country
to the north-east. No water-course, not the slightest
channel produced by heavy rains, was visible to indicate
the flow of waters. Occasionally we met with
swampy ground, covered with reeds, and with some standing
water of the last rains; the ground was so rotten,
that the horses and bullocks sunk into it over the
fetlocks. The principal timber trees here, are
the bastard box, the flooded-gum, and the Moreton
Bay ash; in the Myal scrub, Coxen’s Acacia attains
a very considerable size; we saw also some Ironbark
trees.
The tracks and dung of cattle were
observed; and this was the farthest point to the westward
where we met with them. Kangaroos seemed to be
very rare; but kangaroo rats were numerous. Black-fellows
were very near to us last night; they very probably
withdrew upon seeing us make our appearance.
Oc. Cloudy; wind northerly;
thermometer at 2m. P. degrees.
At about 1 1/2 or 2 miles distance, in a north-west
direction from our last camp, we came to a fine running
creek from the north-east, which we easily crossed;
and, at about one mile farther, reached a creek which,
at this time of the year, is a chain of lagoons lined
on both sides by Bricklow scrub, which occupied a
portion of its limited flats in little points and
detached groves. This vale was one of the most
picturesque spots we had yet seen. An Ironbark
tree, with greyish fissured bark and pale-green foliage,
grows here, and Sterculia heterophylla is pretty frequent
amongst the box and flooded-gum, on the rising ground
between the two creeks. Farther on, the country
opened, the scrub receded; Ironbark ridges here and
there, with spotted gum, with dog-wood (Jacksonia)
on a sandy soil, covered with flint pebbles, diversified
the sameness. The grass was beautiful, but the
tufts distant; the Ironbark forest was sometimes interspersed
with clusters of Acacias; sometimes the Ironbark
trees were small and formed thickets. Towards
the end of the stage, the country became again entirely
flat, without any indication of drainage, and we were
in manifest danger of being without water. At
last, a solitary lagoon was discovered, about 30 yards
in diameter, of little depth, but with one large flooded
gum-tree, marked, by a piece of bark stripped off,
as the former resting-place of a native; the forest
oak is abundant. Here I first met with Hakea lorea,
R. Br., with long terete drooping leaves, every
leaf one and a-half to two feet long a
small tree 18 24 minutes high and
with Grevillea mimosoides, R. Br., also a small
tree, with very long riband-like leaves of a silvery
grey. We did not see any kangaroos, but got a
kangaroo rat and a bandicoot.
Oc. Travelling north-west
we came to a Cypress-pine thicket, which formed the
outside of a Bricklow scrub. This scrub was, at
first, unusually open, and I thought that it would
be of little extent; I was, however, very much mistaken:
the Bricklow Acacia, Casuarinas and a stunted tea-tree,
formed so impervious a thicket, that the bullocks,
in forcing their way through it, tore the flour-bags,
upset their loads, broke their straps, and severely
tried the patience of my companions, who were almost
continually occupied with reloading one or other of
the restless brutes. Having travelled five miles
into it, and finding no prospect of its termination,
I resolved upon returning to our last camp, which,
however, I was not enabled to effect, without experiencing
great difficulty, delay, and loss; and it was not
until the expiration of two days, that we retraced
our steps, and reached the lagoon which we had left
on the 11th. We had lost about 143 pounds of flour;
Mr. Gilbert lost his tent, and injured the stock of
his gun. The same night, rain set in, which lasted
the whole of the next day: it came in heavy showers,
with thunder-storms, from the north and north-west,
and rendered the ground extremely boggy, and made
us apprehensive of being inundated, for the lagoon
was rapidly rising: our tent was a perfect puddle,
and the horses and cattle were scarcely able to walk.
Within the scrub there was a slight
elevation, in which sandstone cropped out: it
was covered with cypress-pine, and an Acacia, different
from the Bricklow. The Bottle-tree (Sterculia,
remarkable for an enlargement of the stem, about three
feet above the ground,) was observed within the scrub:
the white Vitex (?) and Geigera, Schott., a small
tree, with aromatic linear-lanceolate leaves, grew
at its outside, and in small groves scattered through
the open forest. Fusanus, a small tree with pinnate
leaves, and Buttneria, a small shrub, were also found
in these groves.
Many pigeons were seen; the black
cockatoo of Leach (Calyptorhynchus Leachii) was shot;
we passed several nests of the brush-turkey (Talegalla
Lathami, Gould). Charley got a probably new
species of bandicoot, with longer ears than the common
one, and with white paws. We distinguished, during
the rain, three different frogs, which made a very
inharmonious concert. The succinea-like shells
were very abundant in the moist grass; and a limnaea
in the lagoon seemed to me to be a species different
from those I had observed in the Moreton Bay district,
The thermometer at sunset 62 degrees (in the water
68 degrees); at sunrise 52 degrees (in the water 62
degrees).
On the 15th October, the wind changed
during the afternoon to the westward, and cleared
the sky, and dried the ground very rapidly.
Oc. The ground was
too heavy and boggy to permit us to start yesterday;
besides, three horses were absent, and could not be
found. Last night, Mr. Roper brought in three
ducks and a pigeon, and was joyfully welcomed by all
hands. Charley had been insolent several times,
when I sent him out after the cattle, and, this morning,
he even threatened to shoot Mr. Gilbert. I immediately
dismissed him from our service, and took from him
all the things which he held on condition of stopping
with us. The wind continued from the west and
south-west.
Oc. Towards evening
Charley came and begged my pardon. I told him
that he had particularly offended Mr. Gilbert, and
that I could not think of allowing him to stay, if
Mr. Gilbert had the slightest objection to it:
he, therefore, addressed himself to Mr. Gilbert, and,
with his consent, Charley entered again into our service.
John Murphy and Caleb, the American negro, went to
a creek, which Mr. Hodgson had first seen, when out
on a RECONNOISSANCE to the northward, in order to get
some game. John had been there twice before,
and it was not four miles distant: they, however,
did not return, and, at nine o’clock at night,
we heard firing to the north-east. We answered
by a similar signal, but they did not come in.
I sent Mr. Hodgson and Charley to bring them back.
If they had simply given the bridle to their horses,
they would have brought them back without delay; but
probably both got bewildered.
The latitude of this lagoon, which
I called Kent’s Lagoon, after F. Kent, Esq.,
is 26 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds. We tried
to obtain opossums, during the clear moonlight
night, but only caught the common rabbit-rat.
Our horses go right into the scrub,
to get rid of the little flies, which torment them.
The weather is very fair; the regular westerly breeze,
during the day, is setting in again: the dew is
very abundant during clear nights: the morning
very cold; the water of the lagoon 8 degrees to 10
degrees warmer than the air.
We have regularly balanced our loads,
and made up every bag of flour to the weight of 120
pounds: of these we have eight, which are to be
carried by four bullocks. The chocolate and the
gelatine are very acceptable at present, as so little
animal food can be obtained. The country continues
to be extremely boggy, though the weather has been
fine, with high winds, for the last four days.
Tracks of Blackfellows have been seen; but they appear
rare and scattered in this part of the country.
Though we meet with no game, tracks of kangaroos are
very numerous, and they frequently indicate animals
of great size. Émus have been seen twice.
Thermometer at sunset 65 degrees 7
minutes (75 degrees in the water); at a quarter past
one, 90 degrees. South-westerly winds.
Oc. During the night,
north-easterly breeze; at the break of day, a perfect
calm; after sunset easterly winds again. Thermometer
at sunrise 51 degrees (60 degrees in the water); a
cloudless sky. Mr. Hodgson and Charley, whom
I had sent to seek John and Caleb, returned to the
camp with a kangaroo. I sent them immediately
off again, with Mr. Roper, to find the two unfortunate
people, whose absence gave me the greatest anxiety.
Mr. Roper and Mr. Gilbert had brought one pigeon and
one duck, as a day’s sport; which, with the
kangaroo, gave us a good and desirable supper of animal
food. During the evening and the night, a short
bellowing noise was heard, made probably by kangaroos,
of which Mr. Gilbert stated he had seen specimens
standing nine feet high. Brown brought a carpet
snake, and a brown snake with yellow belly. The
flies become very numerous, but the mosquitoes are
very rare.
On a botanical excursion I found a
new Loranthus, with flat linear leaves, on Casuarina,
a new species of Scaevola, Buttneria, and three species
of Solanum. Mr. Hodgson brought a shrubby Goodenia;
another species with linear leaves, and with very
small yellow blossoms, growing on moist places in
the forest; two shrubby Compositae; three different
species of Dodonaea, entering into fruit; and a Stenochilus,
R. Br. with red blossoms, the most common little
shrub of the forest.
Mr. Gilbert brought me a piece of
coal from the crossing place of the creek of the 10th
October. It belongs probably to the same layer
which is found at Flagstone Creek, on Mr. Leslie’s
station, on Darling Downs. We find coal at the
eastern side of the Coast Range, from Illawarra up
to Wide Bay, with sandstone; and it seems that it
likewise extends to the westward of the Coast Range,
being found, to my knowledge, at Liverpool Plains,
at Darling Downs, and at Charley’s Creek, of
the 10th Oct. It is here, as well as at the east
side, connected with sandstone. Flint pebbles,
of a red colour, were very abundant at Charley’s
Creek, and in the scrub, which I called the Flourspill,
as it had made such a heavy inroad into our flour-bags.
The flat on which we encamp, is composed of a mild
clay, which rapidly absorbs the rain and changes into
mud; a layer of stiff clay is about one foot below
the surface. The grasses are at present in full
ear, and often four feet high; but the tufts are distant,
very different from the dense sward at the other side
of the Range. As we left the Myal country of
the Condamine, we left also its herbage, abounding
in composite, leguminous, and chenopodiaceous plants,
with a great variety of grasses.
Oc. This morning,
at half-past nine o’clock, Messrs. Roper, Hodgson,
and Charley, returned with John Murphy and Caleb.
They had strayed about twelve miles from the camp,
and had fairly lost themselves. Their trackers
had to ride over seventy miles, before they came up
to them, and they would certainly have perished, had
not Charley been able to track them: it was indeed
a providential circumstance that he had not left us.
According to their statement, the country is very open,
with a fine large creek, which flows down to the Condamine;
this is the creek which we passed on the 10th Oct.,
and which I called “Charley’s Creek.”
The creek first seen by Mr. Hodgson joins this, and
we are consequently still on westerly waters.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 54 degrees
(in the water 64 degrees); at eight o’clock
64 degrees. Strong easterly and northerly winds
during the last two nights. It becomes calm at
a quarter past three, with the rise of Venus.
Mr. Calvert brought an edible mushroom
out of Flourspill Scrub.
The Loranthus of the Myal grows also
on other Acacias with glaucous leaves. A
bright yellow everlasting is very fine and frequent.
Oc. I left Kent’s
lagoon yesterday. In order to skirt the scrub,
I had to keep to the north-east, which direction brought
me, after about three miles travelling through open
forest, to Mr. Hodgson’s creek, at which John
Murphy and Caleb had been lost. The creek here
consists of a close chain of fine rocky water-holes;
the rock is principally clay, resembling very much
a decomposed igneous rock, but full of nodules and
veins of iron-stone. I now turned to the northward,
and encamped at the upper part of the creek.
To-day I took my old course to the north-west, and
passed a scrubby Ironbark forest, and flat openly-timbered
forest land. I came again, however, to a Bricklow
scrub, which I skirted, and after having crossed a
very dense scrubby Ironbark forest, came to a chain
of rushy water-holes, with the fall of the waters to
the north-east. The whole drainage of a north-easterly
basin, seems to have its outlet, through Charley’s
Creek, into the Condamine.
On the banks of Hodgson’s Creek,
grows a species of Dampiera, with many blue flowers,
which deserves the name of “D. floribunda;”
here also were Leptospermum; Persoonia with lanceolate
pubescent leaf; Jacksonia (Dogwood); the cypress-pine
with a light amber-coloured resin (Charley brought
me fine claret-coloured resin, and I should not be
surprised to find that it belongs to a different species
of Callitris); an Acacia with glaucous lanceolate
one-inch-long phyllodia; and a Daviesia; another Acacia
with glaucous bipinnate leaves; a white Scaevola, Anthericum,
and a little Sida, with very showy blossoms.
Spotted-gum and Ironbark formed the forest; farther
on, flooded-gum.
Pigeons, mutton-birds (Struthidia),
are frequent, and provided us with several messes;
iguanas are considered great delicacies; several
black kangaroos were scen to day.
The weather very fine, but hot; the
wind westerly; thermometer at sunset 74 degrees (84
degrees in the water.)
Oc. At the commencement
of last night, westerly winds, the sky clear; at the
setting of the moon (about 3 o’clock a.m.), the
wind changed to the north-east; scuddy clouds passing
rapidly from that quarter; at sunrise it clears a
little, but the whole morning cloudy, and fine travelling
weather.
We travelled in a north-westerly direction,
through a Casuarina thicket, but soon entered again
into fine open Ironbark forest, with occasionally
closer underwood; leaving a Bricklow scrub to our right,
we came to a dry creek with a deep channel; which
I called “Acacia Creek,” from the abundance
of several species of Acacia. Not a mile farther
we came on a second creek, with running water, which,
from the number of Dogwood shrubs (Jacksonia), in
the full glory of their golden blossoms. I called
“Dogwood Creek.” The creek came from
north and north-east and flowed to the south-west,
to join the Condamine. The rock of Dogwood Creek
is a fine grained porous Psammite (clayey sandstone),
with veins and nodules of iron, like that of Hodgson’s
creek. A new gum-tree, with a rusty-coloured
scaly bark, the texture of which, as well as the seed-vessel
and the leaf, resembled bloodwood, but specifically
different; the apple-tree (Angophora lanceolata); the
flooded-gum; a Hakea with red blossoms; Zierea; Dodonaea;
a crassulaceous plant with handsome pink flowers;
a new myrtaceous tree of irregular stunted growth,
about 30 feet high, with linear leaves, similar to
those of the rosemary; a stiff grass, peculiar to
sandstone regions; and a fine Brunonia, with its chaste
blue blossoms, adorn the flats of the creek as well
as the forest land. The country is at present
well provided with water and grass, though the scattered
tufts of Anthistiria, and the first appearance of
the small grass-tree (Xanthorrhaea), render its constancy
very doubtful. The winding narrow-leaved Kennedyas,
Gnaphaliums in abundance; Aotus in low bushes.
No game, except a kangaroo rat, pigeons,
ducks, and mutton-birds. Mr. Phillips brought
a crawfish from the creek: it had just thrown
off its old shell. Fresh-water muscles plentiful,
though not of the size of those of the Condamine.
A small rat was caught this morning amongst our flour
bags; it had no white tip at the tail, nor is the tail
so bushy as that of the rabbit-rat: probably
it was a young animal.
Oc. The creek being
boggy, we had to follow it down for several miles
to find a crossing place. Even here, one of the
horses which carried the tea, fell back into the water,
whilst endeavouring to scramble up the opposite bank,
and drenched its valuable load. We now travelled
through a country full of lagoons, and chains of water-holes,
and passed through several patches of cypress-pine,
until we came to another creek with rocky water-holes,
with the fall to the eastward, probably joining Dogwood
Creek, from which we were not four miles distant.
Fine grassy flats accompanied the creek on its left,
whilst a cypress-pine forest grew on its right bank.
The latitude of our yesterday’s camp was 26
degrees 26 minutes 30 seconds and, to-day, we are
only four miles more to the westward. The country
is still so flat and so completely wooded sometimes
with scrubs, thickets, Acacia, and Vitex groves, sometimes
with open Ironbark forest intermingled with spotted
gum that no view of distant objects can
be obtained. Several Epacridaceous shrubs and
species of Bossiaea and Daviesia reminded me of the
flora of the more southern districts.
Oc. We travelled about
twelve miles in a north-westerly direction, our latitude
being 26 degrees 15 minutes 46 seconds. The country
in general scrubby, with occasional reaches of open
forest land. The rosemary-leaved tree of the
23rd was very abundant. An Acacia with spiny
phyllodia, the lower half attached to the stem, the
upper bent off in the form of an open hook, had been
observed by me on the sandstone ridges of Liverpool
Plains: and the tout ensemble reminded me forcibly
of that locality. The cypress-pine, several species
of Melaleuca, and a fine Ironbark, with broad lanceolate,
but not cordate, glaucous leaves, and very dark bark,
formed the forest. An arborescent Acacia, in dense
thickets, intercepted our course several times.
Bronze-winged pigeons were very numerous, but exceedingly
shy.
The stillness of the moonlight night
is not interrupted by the screeching of opossums
and flying squirrels, nor by the monotonous note of
the barking-bird and little owlet; no native dog is
howling round our camp in the chilly morning:
the cricket alone chirps along the water-holes; and
the musical note of an unknown bird, sounding like
“gluck gluck” frequently repeated, and
ending in a shake, and the melancholy wail of the
curlew, are heard from the neighbouring scrub.
Oc. Our journey was
resumed: wind in the morning from the west; light
clouds passing rapidly from that quarter.
Messrs. Hodgson and Roper, following
the chain of ponds on which we had encamped, came
to a large creek, with high rocky banks and a broad
stream flowing to the south-west. We passed an
Acacia scrub, and stretches of fine open Ironbark
forest, interspersed with thickets of an aborescent
species of Acacia, for about four miles in a north-west
course, when we found ourselves on the margin of a
considerable valley full of Bricklow scrub; we were
on flat-topped ridges, about 80 to 100 feet above the
level of the valley. After several attempts to
cross, we had to turn to the N. N. E. and east, in
order to head it, travelling through a most beautiful
open Ironbark forest, with the grass in full seed,
from three to four feet high. Following a hollow,
in which the fall of the country was indicated by
the grass bent by the run of water after heavy showers
of rain, we came to fine water-holes, about five miles
from our last camp.
At the other side of the valley, we
saw distant ranges to the north-west and northward.
The scrub was occasionally more open, and fine large
bottle-trees (Sterculia) were frequent: the young
wood of which, containing a great quantity of starch
between its woody fibres, was frequently chewed by
our party. Fusanus was abundant and in full bearing;
its fruit (of the size of a small apple), when entirely
ripe and dropped from the tree, furnished a very agreeable
repast: the rind, however, which surrounds its
large rough kernel, is very thin.
Oc. During last night
a very strong, cold, westerly wind.
After travelling about 3 1/2 miles
north, we were stopped by a Bricklow scrub, which
compelled us to go to the east and south-east.
I encamped, about three miles north-east by north
from my last resting place, and examined the scrub:
it was out of the question to cross it. Mr. Gilbert
shot three black cockatoos and a bronze-winged pigeon.
Oc. During the night
it was very cold, though no wind was stirring.
In the morning we experienced an easterly breeze.
Travelling to the eastward and east by south, I found
that the water-holes outside of the scrub at which
we were encamped, changed into a creek with rocky bed,
having its banks partly covered with cypress-pine thickets.
I crossed it about three miles lower down, and, finding
the Ironbark forest sufficiently open, turned to the
northward; scarcely three miles farther, we came to
another creek of a character similar to that of the
last, which I suppose to be one of the heads of Dogwood
Creek. The blue Brunonia was again frequent;
the grass five feet high, in full ear, and waving
like a rye field. The soil, however, is sandy
and rotten, and the grass in isolated tufts.
We encamped about four miles north-east from our last
camp.