No. For the past week,
the heat was very oppressive during the day, whilst,
at night, it was often exceedingly cold; for two or
three hours before dawn, and for an hour after sunset,
it was generally delightful, particularly within the
influence of a cheerful cypress-pine fire, which perfumes
the air with the sweet scent of the burning resin.
It had now become painfully evident
to me that I had been too sanguine in my calculations,
as to our finding a sufficiency of game to furnish
my party with animal food, and that the want of it
was impairing our strength. We had also been
compelled to use our flour to a greater extent than
I wished; and I saw clearly that my party, which I
had reluctantly increased on my arrival at Moreton
Bay, was too large for our provisions. I, therefore,
communicated to my companions the absolute necessity
of reducing our number: all, however, appeared
equally desirous to continue the journey; and it was,
therefore, but just that those who had joined last,
should leave. Mr. Gilbert, however, who would,
under this arrangement, have had to retire, found
a substitute in Mr. Hodgson, who had perhaps suffered
most by additional fatigues; so that he and Caleb,
the American negro, prepared for their return to Moreton
Bay. Previous, however, to their departure, they
assisted in killing one of our steers, the meat of
which we cut into thin slices, and dried in the sun.
This, our first experiment on the favourable
result of which the success of our expedition entirely
depended kept us, during the process, in
a state of great excitement. It succeeded, however,
to our great joy, and inspired us with confidence
for the future. The little steer gave us 65lbs.
of dried meat, and about 15lbs. of fat. The operation
concluded, we took leave of our companions; and although
our material was reduced by the two horses on which
they returned, Mr. Hodgson left us the greater part
of his own equipment. The loss of the two horses
caused us some little inconvenience, as it increased
the loads of the animals. The daily ration of
the party was now fixed at six pounds of flour per
day, with three pounds of dried beef, which we found
perfectly sufficient to keep up our strength.
Whenever it was necessary to delay
for any time at one place, our cattle and horses gave
us great trouble: they would continually stray
back in the direction we came from, and we had frequently
to fetch them back five, seven, and even ten miles.
Mr. Hodgson’s horses had returned even to the
camp of the 21st October, and three days were required
to find them and bring them back. These matters
caused us considerable delay; but they were irremediable.
On the 30th October, towards evening, we were hailed
by natives, from the scrub; but, with the exception
of one, they kept out of sight. This man knew
a few English words, and spoke the language of Darling
Downs; he seemed to be familiar with the country round
Jimba; and asked permission to come to the camp:
this, however, I did not permit; and they entered
the scrub, when they saw us handle our guns, and bring
forward two horses to the camp. On the 3rd of
November they visited us again, and communicated with
us, behaving in a very friendly way: they pointed
out honey in one of the neighbouring trees, assisted
in cutting it out and eating it, and asked for tobacco;
it was, however, impossible to make any presents,
as we had nothing to spare. They particularly
admired the red blankets, were terror-struck at the
sight of a large sword, which they tremblingly begged
might be returned into the sheath, and wondered at
the ticking of a watch, and at the movement of its
wheels. The greater part were young men of mild
disposition, and pleasing countenance; the children
remained in the distance, and I only saw two women.
According to their statements, the
scrub extends to the Condamine.
The scrub was crossed in every direction
by tracks of wallabies, of which, however, we
could not even get a sight. The glucking bird by
which name, in consequence of its note, the bird may
be distinguished was heard through the
night. They live probably upon the seeds of the
cypress-pine; the female answers the loud call of the
male, but in a more subdued voice.
A Gristes, about seven inches long,
resembling the one described in Sir Thomas Mitchell’s
journey, but specifically different from it, was caught
in the water-holes of the creek, which I called “Dried-beef
Creek,” in memorial of our late occupation.
A Goodenoviaceous shrub, a pink Hibiscus,
and a fine prostrate Sida, were found between the
camp of the 27th October and Dried-beef Creek.
No. Having previously
examined and found a passage through the scrub, we
travelled through it for about eight miles on a north
by west course. The head of Dried-beef Creek,
was found to be formed by separate water-holes, in
a slight hollow along the scrub; and, when these disappeared,
we were moving over a perfectly level land, without
any sign of drainage, but occasionally passing isolated
holes, now for the greater part dry. On our left,
our course was bounded by a dense Bricklow scrub;
but, on our right, for the first four miles, the country
was comparatively open, with scattered Acacias;
it then became densely timbered, but free from scrub.
Farther on, however, scrub appeared even to our right.
A natural opening, which had recently been enlarged
by a bush fire, enabled us to pass into a dense Ironbark
and cypress-pine forest; and then, bearing a little
to the right, we came on a slight watercourse to the
northward, which rapidly enlarged as it descended
between ranges, which seemed to be the spurs of the
table land we had just left.
No. We observed the
tomb of a native near our camp. It was a simple
conical heap of sand, which had been raised over the
body, which was probably bent into the squatting position
of the natives; but, as our object was to pass quietly,
without giving offence to the aborigines, we did not
disturb it. It is, however, remarkable that, throughout
our whole journey, we never met with graves or tombs,
or even any remains of Blackfellows again; with the
exception of a skull, which I shall notice at a later
period. Several isolated conical hills were in
the vicinity of our camp; sandstone cropped out in
the creek, furnishing us with good whetstones.
After travelling about four miles
in a north-west direction, through a fine open undulating
country, we came to, and followed the course of, a
considerable creek flowing to the westward, bounded
by extensive flooded gum-flats and ridges, clothed
with a forest of silver-leaved Ironbark. Large
reedy lagoons, well supplied with fish, were in its
bed. Our latitude was 26 degrees 4 minutes 9
seconds.
No. The arrangement
for loading our cattle enabled me at last to mount
every one of my companions, which was very desirable;
for the summer having fairly set in, and no thunder-storms
having cooled the atmosphere since we left the Condamine,
the fatigue of walking during the middle of the day
had become very severe. From Jimba we started
with a few horses without load, which only enabled
us to ride alternately; but, as our provisions gradually
decreased in quantity, one after the other mounted
his horse; and this day I had the pleasure of seeing
everybody on horseback.
We travelled along the valley of the
river about ten miles, in a west-northerly course;
our latitude of this day being 26 degrees 3 minutes
44 seconds Fine box and apple-tree flats were on both
sides of the creek, now deserving the appellation
of a “River,” and which I called the “Dawson,”
in acknowledgment of the kind support I received from
R. Dawson, Esq., of Black Creek, Hunter’s River.
At the foot of the ridges some fine lagoons were observed,
as also several plains, with the soil and the vegetation
of the Downs, but bounded on the northward by impenetrable
Bricklow scrub. In a watercourse, meandering through
this scrub, sandstone cropped out, in which impressions
of fossil plants were noticed by me. It was interesting
to observe how strictly the scrub kept to the sandstone
and to the stiff loam lying upon it, whilst the mild
black whinstone soil was without trees, but covered
with luxuriant grasses and herbs; and this fact struck
me as remarkable, because, during my travels in the
Bunya country of Moreton Bay, I found it to be exactly
the reverse: the sandstone spurs of the range
being there covered with an open well grassed forest,
whilst a dense vine brush extended over the basaltic
rock. The phenomenon is probably to be explained
by the capability of the different soils of retaining
moisture, and, at the same time, by taking into account
the distance of the localities from the seacoast.
I called these plains “Calvert’s Plains,”
after my companion, Mr. Calvert. Farther to the
westward we passed over open ridges, covered with
Bastard-box and silver-leaved Ironbark: the former
tree grows generally in rich black soil, which appeared
several times in the form of ploughed land, well known,
in other parts of the colony, either under that name,
or under that of “Devil-devil land,” as
the natives believe it to be the work of an evil spirit.
No. The first two hours
of the day were cloudy, but it cleared up and became
very hot; the atmosphere was hazy and sultry; cumuli
with undefined outlines all round the horizon:
wind from south-west and south. I travelled west
by north about eight miles, along the foot of Bastard-box
and silver-leaved Ironbark ridges. The country
was exceedingly fine; the ground was firm; the valley
from two to three miles broad, clothed with rich grass,
and sprinkled with apple-tree, flooded-gum, and Bastard-box;
the hills formed gentle ascents, and were openly timbered.
The water-holes seemed to be constant; they are very
deep, densely surrounded by reeds, and with numerous
heaps of broken muscle-shells round their banks.
Scrub was, however, to be seen in the distance, and
formed the dark spot in the pleasant picture.
Game became more frequent; and last night every body
had a duck. As we were pursuing our course, Mr.
Gilbert started a large kangaroo, known by the familiar
name of “old man,” which took refuge in
a water-hole, where it was killed, but at the expense
of two of our kangaroo dogs, which were mortally wounded.
As we were sitting at our dinner, a fine half-grown
emu walked slowly up to us, as if curious to know
what business we had in its lonely haunts; unfortunately
for us, the bark of our little terrier frightened
it; and, although one of my Blackfellows shot after
it, it retired unscathed into the neighbouring thicket.
Mr. Roper killed a Rallus, which Mr. Gilbert thought
to be new. The high land from which we came,
appears at present as a distant range to the south-east.
Fine-grained sandstone, with impressions of leaves,
was again observed, and a few pieces of silicified
wood. A Thysanotus with fine large blossoms now
adorns the forest. The native carrot is in seed;
the Eryngium of Jimba, and a leguminous plant, prostrate
with ternate leaves and bunches of yellow flowers,
were frequent; several beautiful species of everlastings
were occasionally seen, and the little orange-tree
of the Condamine grew in the scrub.
No. We followed the
Dawson for about eight miles lower down. About
four miles from our camp, it is joined by a fine chain
of ponds from the north-east. The flats on both
sides are covered by open Bastard-box forest, of a
more or less open character. In the rainy season,
the whole valley is probably covered with water; for
we frequently observed the marks of torrents rushing
down from the hills; and, along the foot of the ridges,
ponds and lagoons were frequent. The heat of summer
had already burnt up a great part of the grasses;
and it was only in the immediate neighbourhood of
the river that there was any appearance of verdure.
The bed of the river became drier, and changed its
character considerably. Charley stated, that
he had seen a large plain extending for many miles
to the south-west, and a high mountain to the north.
Several émus, pigeons, and ducks were seen.
Mr. Calvert found concrétions of marl in the
creek. John Murphy caught a great number of crawfish.
For the first time since leaving the Condamine, we
were visited by a thunder-storm. Cumuli
generally during the afternoon, with wind from the
W.N.W; during the night it usually clears up.
No. The country along
the river changed, during the last two stages, considerably
for the worse. The scrub approached very near
to the banks of the river, and, where it receded,
a disagreeable thicket of Bastard-box saplings filled
almost the whole valley: fine lagoons were along
the river, frequently far above its level; the river
itself divided into anabranches, which, with the shallow
watercourses of occasional floods from the hills,
made the whole valley a maze of channels, from which
we could only with difficulty extricate ourselves.
“I never saw such a rum river, in my life,”
said my blackfellow Charley.
The open forest was sometimes one
large field of everlasting flowers with bright yellow
blossoms; whilst the scrub plains were thickly covered
with grasses and vervain. Almost all the grasses
of Liverpool Plains grow here. Ironstone and
quartz pebbles were strewed over the ground; and, in
the valley, fine-grained sandstone with layers of iron-ore
cropped out.
Large fish were seen in the lagoons;
but we only succeeded in catching some small fish
of the genus Gristes. Muscles continued to be
frequent; and we saw the gunyas of the natives everywhere,
although no native made his appearance.
It was here that I first met, growing
on the scrubby hills, a species of Bauhinia, either
shrubby or a small shady tree, with spreading branches;
the pods are flat, of a blunt form, almost one inch
in breadth, and from three to four inches long.
The Bricklow seems to prevent the growth of almost
all other vegetation, with the exception of a small
shrub, with linear lanceolate aromatic leaves.
An Acacia, with long drooping, almost terete leaves,
grew along the river; and Crinums grew in patches amongst
the everlasting flowers, on a sandy soil. Our
latitude, of the 9th November, was 25 degrees 53 minutes
55 seconds; and that of the 10th, 25 degrees 47 minutes
55 seconds, at about eleven miles north-west from the
camp of the 8th November.
Until the 14th of November, we travelled
down the Dawson. In order to avoid the winding
course of the river, and the scrub and thickets that
covered its valley, which rendered our progress very
slow, we had generally to keep to the ridges, which
were more open. We several times met with fine
plains, which I called “Vervain Plains,”
as that plant grew abundantly on them. They were
surrounded with scrub, frequently sprinkled with Bricklow
groves, interspersed with the rich green of the Bauhinia,
and the strange forms of the Bottle-tree; which imparted
to the scene a very picturesque character. From
one of these plains we obtained, for the first time,
a view of some well-defined ranges to the west-north-west.
The general course of the river, between the latitudes
of 25 degrees 41 minutes 55 seconds and 25 degrees
37 minutes 12 seconds, was to the northward; but,
as it commenced to turn to the east, I was induced
to cross it, and to follow my former direction to
the northwest. Between those two latitudes, the
river had commenced to run, which was not the ease
higher up, notwithstanding it was formed by long reaches
of water, upon which pelicans and ducks were abundant.
Mr. Calvert and the black, Charley, who had been sent
back to one of our last camping places, had, on returning,
kept a little more to the north-east, and had seen
a river flowing to the northward, and a large creek;
both of which, probably, join the Dawson lower down.
At that part of the river where it commences to run,
its bed was more confined, and was fringed by Melaleucas
and drooping Acacias.
Our provisions had been increased
by an emu, which Charley shot; our remaining two kangaroo
dogs also succeeded in catching an “old man”
kangaroo on the Vervain Plains of the 14th November.
I made it an invariable practice to dry the meat which
remained after the consumption of the day’s
allowance, and it served considerably to save our stock
of dried beef, and to lengthen the lives of our bullocks.
The utmost economy was necessary; for we
were constantly exposed to losses, occasioned by the
pack bullocks upsetting their loads; an annoyance which
was at this time of frequent occurrence from the animals
being irritated by the stings of hornets a
retaliation for the injuries done to their nests,
which, being suspended to the branches of trees, were
frequently torn down by the bullocks passing underneath.
A large turtle was seen; and Mr. Gilbert
caught two fine eels in one of the lagoons. We
had thunder-storms on the 12th and 13th of November:
the morning is generally cloudy, the clouds come from
the north-east and north, clearing away in the middle
of the day; and the afternoon is exceedingly hot.
No. A dense scrub,
which had driven us back to the river, obliged me
to reconnoitre to the north-west, in which I was very
successful; for, after having crossed the scrub, I
came into an open country, furnished with some fine
sheets of water, and a creek with Corypha palms, growing
to the height of 25 or 30 feet. The feelings of
delight which I experienced when, upon emerging from
the more than usually inhospitable Bricklow scrub,
the dark verdure of a swamp surrounding a small lake
with native companions (ARDEAANTIGONE)
strutting round, and swarms of ducks playing on its
still water, backed by an open forest, in which the
noble palm tree was conspicuous suddenly
burst upon our view, were so great as to be quite
indescribable. I joyfully returned to the camp,
to bring forward my party; which was not, however,
performed without considerable trouble. We had
to follow the Dawson down to where the creek joined
it; for the scrub was impassable for loaded bullocks,
and, even on this detour, we had to contend with much
scrub as we proceeded down the valley. It, however,
became more free from scrub at every step, and opened
out into flats of more or less extent on either side,
skirted by hills, clothed with an open forest, rising
into regular ranges. On my reconnaissance
I crossed the Gilbert Ranges, which were named after
my companion Mr. Gilbert, and came on waters which
fall to the eastward, and join the Dawson lower down.
From the summit of an open part of the range, I saw
other ranges to the northward, but covered with Bricklow
scrub, as was also the greater part of Gibert’s
Range. To the east, however, the view was more
cheering; for the hills are more open, and the vegetation
composed of the silver-leaved and narrow-leaved Ironbark
trees and an open Vitex scrub. Several rocky
gullies were passed, that were full of palm trees.
The valley of Palm-tree Creek extends about nineteen
miles from west to east The ranges which bound it
to the south, I called “Lynd’s Range,”
after my friend R. Lynd, Esq. Gilbert’s
Range bounds it to the northward: Middle Range
separates the creek from the Dawson up to their junction.
Several large swamps are within the valley; one of
which, the small lake which first broke upon my view,
received the name of “Roper’s Lake,”
after one of my companions.
No. We went about
nine miles up the valley, on a south branch of Palm-tree
Creek, which derives its waters from Lynd’s Range.
The fine water-hole which I selected for our camp,
was not only shaded by stately Coryphas and flooded
gums, but the drooping Callistemon, the creek Melaleuca,
and the Casuarina, gave to it the character of the
rivers and creeks of the Moreton Bay district.
It changed, however, into a shallow waterless channel,
communicating with one of the large swamps which generally
extend along the base of the hills. I rode up
Lynd’s Range, passing plains similar to those
I have before mentioned, composed of black soil intermingled
with fossil wood and decomposed sandstone, and densely
covered with Burr, (a composite plant) and Verbena,
and scattered tufts either of Bricklow, or of Coxen’s
Acacia, or of the bright green Fusanus, or of the
darker verdure of Bauhinia, with here and there a
solitary tree of a rich dark-green hue, from forty
to fifty feet in height. From the summit I had
a fine view down the valley of the Dawson, which was
bounded on both sides by ranges. A high distant
mountain was seen about N.N.E. from Lynd’s Range,
at the left side of the Dawson.
The water-holes abounded with jew-fish
and eels; of the latter we obtained a good supply,
and dried two of them, which kept very well. Two
species of Limnaea, the one of narrow lengthened form,
the other shorter and broader; a species of Paludina,
and Cyclas and Unios, were frequent. The
jew-fish has the same distoma in its swimming bladder,
which I observed in specimens caught in the Severn
River to the southward of Moreton Bay: on examining
the intestines of this fish, they were full of the
shells of Limnaea and Cyclas. Large specimens
of helix were frequent on the Vervain Plains, but
they were only dead shells. The fat-hen (Atriplex)
and the sow-thistle (Sonchus) grew abundantly on the
reedy flats at the upper end of the creek; Grewia,
a prostrate Myoporum, and a bean with yellow blossoms,
were frequent all over the valley. Atriplex
forms, when young, as we gratefully experienced, an
excellent vegetable, as do also the young shoots of
Sonchus. The tops of the Corypha palm eat well,
either baked in hot ashes or raw, and, although very
indigestible, did not prove injurious to health when
eaten in small quantities. In the vicinity of
the swamps of Palm-tree Creek, I noticed a grass with
an ear much resembling the bearded wheat: with
the exception of the cultivated Cerealia, it had the
largest seed I ever met with in grasses; even my Blackfellow
was astonished at its remarkable size.
During the night we experienced a
strong wind from the northward, and, during the afternoon,
a gust of wind and rain from west and north-west;
but no thunder.
No. Clouds gathered
from the west and north-west, a few drops of rain
fell, and a few low peals of thunder were heard; but,
although charged with electric fluid, and, in appearance,
threatening an approaching thunder-storm, no discharge
of lightning took place. We were very much annoyed
and harassed, during the evening and the early part
of the night, by sand-flies and mosquitoes; but the
clear night grew so cold, that these great enemies
of bush comforts were soon benumbed. The latitude
of the camp of the 18th November was 25 degrees 30
minutes 11 seconds.
No. No air stirring,
night very cold and bright; dew heavy; the surface
of the creek covered with vapour; the water very warm.
Having no apparatus for ascertaining
the height of our position above the level of the
sea, this very interesting fact could not be determined;
but, from the cold experienced, at a period so near
the summer solstice, the elevation must have been
very considerable.
We travelled during the day in a westerly
direction over a level country, partly covered with
reeds and fat-hen, and came to a broad sandy creek,
which turned to the south-east and south. Having
crossed it, we passed several large lagoons and swamps
covered with plovers and ducks; and, at a short mile
farther, came again on the creek, which now had a deep
channel and a broad sandy bed lined with casuarinas
and flooded-gum trees. I called this “Robinson’s
Creek.” At its left bank, we saw a wide
sheet of water, beyond which rose a range densely covered
with scrub: I called them “Murphy’s
Lake and Range,” after John Murphy, one of my
companions.
I believe that Robinson’s Creek
is a westerly water; and, if so, it is very remarkable
that the heads of Palm-tree Creek, which flows to the
eastward, should be scarcely a mile distant; and that
the interesting space, separating the two systems
of waters, should be, to all appearance, a dead level.
I had descended from a
scrubby table land, the continuation of Darling Downs into
a system of easterly waters. I had followed down
the Dawson for a considerable distance, and then,
following up one of its creeks, found myself again
on westerly waters. I could not decide, to my
entire satisfaction, whether my views were right;
for the country was difficult for reconnoitring; and
I was necessarily compelled to move quickly on, to
accomplish the object of my expedition: but it
is a very interesting point for geographical research,
and I hope, if I am not anticipated by other explorers,
to ascertain, at some future period, the course of
these creeks and rivers.
No. The first part
of the night till the setting of the moon was very
clear; after this it became cloudy, but cleared again
at sunrise, with the exception of some mackerel-sky
and stratus to the north-west. During the forenoon
it was again cloudy, and a thunder-storm occurred at
half-past two o’clock from the north-west and
west-north-west, with little rain, but a heavy gust
of wind.
In travelling to the westward, along
Robinson’s Creek, although two or three miles
distant from it, we passed two lakes, one of which
was a fine, long, but rather narrow, sheet of water,
with swamps to the south-east. About six miles
farther on, the country began to rise into irregular
scrubby ridges; the scrub generally composed of Vitex
intermingled with various forest trees. The small
orange-tree, which we had found in blossom at the
Condamine, was setting its fruit. Farther on,
the dense Bricklow scrub compelled me to approach the
banks of the creek, where we travelled over fine flats,
but with a rather sandy rotten soil. The apple-tree,
flooded-gum, silver-leaved ironbark, and the bastard-box
grew on the flats and on the ridges. The creek
was well provided with large water-holes, surrounded
by high reeds.
We now entered a mountainous country;
and the banks of the creek became sometimes very steep
and broken by narrow gullies, rendering our progress
slow and difficult. We had to wind our way through
narrow valleys, and over ranges from which the descent
was frequently very steep and dangerous. The
latitude of our camp of the 21st November was 25 degrees
28 minutes 12 seconds; that of the 22nd was 25 degrees
25 minutes; that of the 23rd, about 32 miles west
of Murphy’s Lake, was 25 degrees 27 minutes
12 seconds. Here the ranges were, for the most
part, openly timbered, with the exception of the higher
points, which were generally covered with vine-brush;
in one of which we found the nests of the brush turkey
(Talegalla Lathami), and observed the bird itself.
Some considerable stretches of beautiful country were
now travelled over; the leading feature being low
ridges, openly timbered with the silver-leaved ironbark,
covered with an abundance of grass and herbs, and furnished
with large lagoons; there was also a constant supply
of water in the creek itself. On the banks of
the latter, a species of Sterculia grows to a large
size, and is one of the most pleasing and ornamental
trees of the country; it is probably different from,
although nearly allied to S. heterophylla. Very
disagreeable, however, was the abundance of Burr and
of a spear-grass (Aristida), which attached themselves
to our clothes and blankets, and entered (particularly
the latter) into the very skin. I have also to
mention, that a yellow Villarsia was found on one of
the lakes; which were generally surrounded by high
sedges. We have not seen black swans since leaving
Murphy’s Lake; at which place we first saw a
species of whistling duck, (Leptotarsis, Gould.)
Appearances indicated that the commencement
of the ranges was a favourite resort of the “Blackfellows.”
The remains of recent repasts of muscles were strewed
about the larger water-holes, and, as I passed a native
camp, which had only lately been vacated, I found,
under a few sheets of bark, four fine kangaroo nets,
made of the bark of Sterculia; also several bundles
of sticks, which are used to stretch them. As
I was in the greatest want of cordage, I took two
of these nets; and left, in return, a fine brass hilted
sword, the hilt of which was well polished, four fishing-hooks,
and a silk handkerchief; with which, I felt convinced,
they would be as well pleased, as I was with the cordage
of their nets. It was to this spot that Mr. Pemberton
Hodgson penetrated, when he afterwards followed my
tracks, to ascertain the truth of the rumours, which
had been carried by the blacks to Moreton Bay, of my
having been either killed by the natives, or destroyed
by a hurricane, which was said to have passed through
the narrow valley of the confined creek.
The high mountain ranges, at the head
of Robinson’s Creek, which we observed from
the tops of the hills, at the entrance into the mountainous
country, bore W.N.W., and N.W. from the position I
now occupied. We had a thunder-storm on the 21st
November, followed by continued rain and a perfect
calm During the night occasional showers of rain fell;
at sunrise light fleecy clouds from W.N.W.: the
nights, when clear, were very cold.
Until very lately we had all suffered
severely from diarrhoea, which I could not account
for, othewise than by attributing it to our change
of diet. Fresh meat had almost invariably affected
us; but after a time our continued exposure to the
air, the regularity of our movements, and constant
state of exertion, rendered us more hardy, and sharpened
our appetites. Iguanas, opossums, and
birds of all kinds, had for some time past been most
gladly consigned to our stewing-pot, neither good,
bad, nor indifferent being rejected. The dried
kangaroo meat, one of our luxuries, differed very
little in flavour from the dried beef, and both, after
long stewing, afforded us an excellent broth, to which
we generally added a little flour. It is remarkable
how soon man becomes indifferent to the niceties of
food; and, when all the artificial wants of society
have dropped off, the bare necessities of life form
the only object of his desires.
One of our bullocks had torn one of
the flour-bags, and about fifteen pounds of flour
were scattered over the ground. We all set to
work, to scrape as much of it up as we could, using
the dry gum leaves as spoons to collect it; and, when
it got too dirty to mix again with our flour, rather
than leave so much behind, we collected about six pounds
of it well mixed with dried leaves and dust, and of
this we made a porridge, a mess which,
with the addition of some gelatine, every one of us
enjoyed highly.
No new insects, few new birds, and
but few plants, attracted our attention. Mr.
Gilbert’s parrot, which he first met with on
the downs, was very frequent; the glucking-bird and
the barking-owl were heard throughout the moonlight
nights. Several native dogs were killed, and
their howling was frequently heard. Only one kangaroo
had been shot since we left the Dawson, although their
tracks were met with every where. Charley had
taken several opossums; the presence of these
animals generally indicates a good country. Quails
were abundant, but not worth our powder; flocks of
spur-winged plovers were living at the lakes and swamps,
and a shy hornbill (Scythrops) was seen and heard several
times. The nests of the white ant were rarely
seen; but the soldier ant, and the whole host of the
others, were every where. The funnel ant digs
a perpendicular hole in the ground, and surrounds
the opening with an elevated wall, sloping outwards
like a funnel; the presence of this insect generally
indicates a rotten soil, into which horses and cattle
sink beyond their fetlocks. This soil is, however,
by no means a pure sand, but is well mixed with particles
of clay, which allow the ant to construct its fabric.
In rainy weather this soil forms the best travelling
ground, and is by no means so rotten as when dry.
Large hornets of a bright yellow colour,
with some black marks, made their paper nests on the
stems of trees, or suspended them from the dry branches;
most of us were several times severely stung by them.
When found near our encampment we generally destroyed
them, by quickly raising a large fire with dry grass.
A species of Gristes was abundant
in the water-holes, but it was of small size:
the eels have disappeared.
No. We travelled about
eight miles, north by west, ascending a spur, from
which the waters flowed, both to the south-west and
to the eastward, but both collecting in Robinson’s
Creek. Every time we turned to the westward we
came on tremendous gullies, with almost perpendicular
walls, whereas the easterly waters formed shallow valleys
of a gently sloping character. The range was
openly timbered with white-gum, spotted-gum, Ironbark,
rusty-gum, and the cypress-pine near the gullies;
and with a little dioecious tree belonging to the Euphorbiaceae,
which I first met with at the Severn River, and which
was known amongst us under the name of the “Severn
Tree:” it had a yellow or red three-capsular
fruit, with a thin fleshy pericarp, of an exceedingly
bitter taste; the capsules were one-seeded. The
gullies were full of bush-trees, amongst which the
Bottle-tree, and the Corypha-palm were frequent.
Pomaderris and Flindersia were in fruit and blossom.
According to Mr. Gilbert, rock wallabies
were very numerous. On a RECONNOISSANCE I traversed
the continuation of the range, which I found to be
of a flat, sandy, and rotten character, having, with
the exception of the Blackbutt, all the trees and
other characteristics of the sandstone country of Moreton
Bay: Xylomelum, Xanthorrhaea, Zamia, Leptospermum,
a new species of forest oak, which deserves the name
of Casuarina villosa, for its bark looks quite
villous; Persoonia falcata, R. Br., a small
tree about fifteen feet high, with stiff glaucous
falcate leaves, and racemose inflorescence; a dwarf
Persoonia, with linear leaves, the stringy-bark, and
a species of Melaleuca along the creek. In my
excursion I crossed the main branch of Robinson’s
Creek, and found the gullies of its right bank as steep
and tremendous as those of the left. Water was
very scarce. The whole country is composed of
a fine-grained sandstone.
As the water-holes on the range are
very few and distant from each other, they are frequented
by the bronze-winged pigeons in great numbers.
Mr. Gilbert shot eight of them, and Mr. Roper, John
Murphy, and Charley, added to the number, so that
we had a fine pigeon supper and breakfast, each having
his bird a rare occurrence in our expedition.
A few drops of rain fell in the morning.
No. When we were waiting
for our bullocks, four émus came trotting
down the slope towards the camp. Messrs. Gilbert,
Roper, Murphy, and Brown, having their horses ready,
gave chase, and, after a dangerous gallop, over extremely
rocky ground, succeeded, with the assistance of our
kangaroo dog, Spring, in securing one of them.
When Charley returned to the camp with the bullocks,
he told us that he had found these émus
walking amongst the bullocks, and that he had struck
one of them with his tomahawk. On our road to
the water, which I had found on my reconnoisance,
about seven miles W.N.W., under a still higher range,
rising at the right of Robinson’s Creek, we started
a herd of eight kangaroos, when our horsemen, assisted
by Spring, were again successful in taking one of
them.
No. A thunder-storm
during the night, which passed, however, to the other
side of the range. After a gust of wind of short
duration, we had some very light showers; so light
indeed, as not to interrupt our meat-drying process.
Proceeding on our journey, we ascended
the range, and travelled between four and five miles
on its level summit, which was covered with open forest,
interspersed with thickets of Acacias and Casuarinas.
From the extremity of the range we enjoyed a very
fine and extensive view. Ranges of mountains
with conspicuous peaks, cupolas, and precipitous walls
of rock, were observed extending at various distances
from west by north to north-west. The most distant
range was particularly striking and imposing; I called
it “Expedition Range,” and to a bell-shaped
mountain bearing degrees W., I gave the name
of “Mount Nicholson,” in honour of Dr.
Charles Nicholson, who first introduced into the Legislative
Council of New South Wales, the subject of an overland
expedition to Port Essington; and to a sharp peak
degrees W., the name of “Aldis’s
Peak,” in acknowledgment of the kind assistance
received from Mr. Aldis of Sydney. We then descended,
with great difficulty into a broad valley, bounded
on either side by fine slopes and ridges, openly timbered
with silver-leaved Ironbark. On the small well-grassed
flats along the watercourse, the flooded-gum and apple-trees
grew to a considerable size.
The morning was cloudy, with occasional
drops of rain; but it cleared up towards noon, and,
near sunset, a wall of dark clouds rose in the west,
over the ranges. Thunder-storms very generally
come with westerly cloudy weather, with north-westerly,
and northerly winds. We busied ourselves in extracting
the oil from the skin of the emu: this operation
was performed by suspending it on sticks before a
gentle fire, the oil dripping from it into a shallow
vessel. It is of a light amber colour, and is
very useful in oiling the locks of our fire-arms;
it has been considered a good anti-rheumatic, and
I occasionally used it for that purpose.
Mr. Gilbert skinned the tail of the
kangaroo to make a bag for holding fat; but it broke
and ripped so easily when dry, as to render it unfit
for that purpose. We used the skins of the kangaroos
to cover our flour-bags, which were in a most wretched
condition. Our latitude was 25 degrees 19 minutes
19 seconds.
No. Charley and Brown
informed us that they had followed the watercourse,
and had come to a broad river with precipitous banks,
which would not allow any passage for our horses and
cattle; they also stated that the watercourse on which
we were encamped, became a rocky gully, and that it
would be impossible to cross it lower down. From
this information I supposed that a river, like the
Robinson, rising in many gullies of the north-east
ranges, and flowing in south-west direction was before
us; I, therefore, decided upon heading it. It
was, however, very difficult to find a leading spur,
and we frequently came on deep and impassable gullies,
surrounded by a dense thicket of cypresspine, and a
great variety of shrubs peculiar to sandstone rock.
After travelling about nine miles in a degrees
E. direction, we came to a subordinate range, and
having found, in one of its watercourses, some tolerable
grass and a fine water-hole, we were enabled to encamp.
Mr. Roper and Charley, who had kept a little more
to the left, reported that they had been on one of
the heads of the Boyd, and had seen a fine open country
to the westward, and south-west. The “Boyd”
was so named in acknowledgment of the liberal support
I had received from Benjamin Boyd, Esq.
Amongst the shrubs along the gullies,
a new species of Dodonaea, with pinnate pubescent
leaves, was frequent. Towards evening we had a
thunderstorm from the westward.
No. In reconnoitring
the country in the neighbourhood of the camp, I ascended
three mountains, and ascertained that there are five
parallel ranges, striking from north to south, of
which the three easterly ones send their waters to
the eastward; whereas the two westerly ones send theirs
to the Boyd, the valley of which has a south-westerly
direction. To the north of the Boyd, there is
a steep mountain barrier, striking from east to west.
All these ranges are composed of sandstone, with their
horizontal strata, some of which have a very fine grain.
Impressions of Calamités were observed in one
of the gullies. We also saw two kangaroos.
In the water-hole near our camp, there were numerous
small brown leeches, which were very keen in the water,
but dropped off as soon as we lifted our feet out
of it. The hornets also were very troublesome.
Recent bush fires and still smoking trees betokened
the presence of natives; who keep, however, carefully
out of sight. This country, with its dry scrubby
ranges and its deep rocky gullies, seems to be thinly
inhabited; the natives keeping, probably, to the lower
course of Robinson’s Creek and of the Boyd.
The descent to the easterly waters is much more gentle;
water remains longer in the deep rocky basins or puddled
holes of its creeks, and the vegetation is richer
and greener. Instead of the cypress-pine scrub,
the Corypha-palm and the Casuarina grew here, and invited
us to cool shaded waters; the Corypha-palm promised
a good supply of cabbage. We had a thunder-storm
from the southward, which turned from the range to
the eastward. The two last days were cloudless
and very hot; but, on the ranges, a cool breeze was
stirring from the northward.
No. I wished to move
my camp to a small water-hole about eight miles east
by north, which I had found yesterday; but, though
I kept more to the northward than I thought necessary,
we were everywhere intercepted by deep rocky gullies.
Losing much time in heading them, I ventured to descend
one of the more practicable spurs, and, to my great
satisfaction, my bullocks did it admirably well.
The valley into which I entered was very different
from these barriers; gentle slopes, covered with open
forest of silver-leaved Ironbark, and most beautifully
grassed, facilitated my gradual descent to the bottom
of the valley, which was broad, flat, thinly timbered
with flooded-gum and apple-trees, densely covered
with grass, and, in the bed of the creek which passed
through it, well provided with reedy water-holes.
Before I ventured to proceed with my whole party,
I determined to examine the country in advance, and
therefore followed up one of the branches of the main
creek, in a northerly direction. In proceeding,
the silver-leaved Ironbark forest soon ceased, and
the valley became narrow and bounded by perpendicular
walls of sandstone, composed of coarse grains of quartz,
rising out of sandy slopes covered with Dogwood (Jacksonia)
and spotted-gum. The rock is in a state of rapid
decomposition, with deep holes and caves inhabited
by rock-wallabies; and with abundance of
nests of wasps, and wasp-like Hymenoptera, attached
to their walls, or fixed in the interstices of the
loose rock. Through a few gullies I succeeded
in ascending a kind of table-land, covered with a
low scrub, in which the vegetation about Sydney appeared
in several of its most common forms. I then descended
into other valleys to the eastward, but all turned
to the east and south-east; and, after a long and
patient investigation, I found no opening through
which we could pass with our bullocks. Although
I returned little satisfied with my ride, I had obtained
much interesting information as to the geological
character of this singular country.